Porsche 997 turbo Bilstein B16 Damptronic Installation Part 1
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- Installed DIY Bilstein B16 damptronic installation. Lowered the car about an inch. Car is firmer, less body roll and front end dive on hard braking but not harsh. Can't wait to test it at the track. Best balance between street and some track use. Swap out to even stiffer spring for better track performance.
Watch part 2 rear install - • Porsche 997 turbo Bils...
These were on back order for many months. Best price I found was at Rock Auto.
www.rockauto.c...
Great post in 6speedonline from Cannga - www.6speedonli...
I got the Sport Damp Tronic version to keep OEM PASM. Part #49135985
Don't forget to replace worn shock mounts, ball bearings and get special strut socket tool. These are for 997 C4/turbo
Front left top mount OEM 997 343 015 02
Front right top mount OEM 997 343 016 02
Bearing plates front Sachs 996 343 501 00 x 2
Front Coil Spring rubber shim 996 343 525 00 x 2 (not included as I incorrectly mentioned in the video, I was thinking the rear which came with the rubber pieces)
Or get Tarett camber plates for more camber - www.tarett.com...
Rear top mount 997 333 061 01 x 2
Great video and your kind and peaceful way of explaining things makes difficult jobs look much easier. Thank you for sharing this video and the rest of your wonderful content.
Working on your car and filming at the same time is hard, good job Jim ! 🏁
Thanks, it's certainly slows me down and I stop filming when I get stuck or frustrated.
Good job on being a mechanic and a videographer at the same time on this project. Enjoyee the frustration displayed through the animations and sounds. I hope you get your 1,000 subscriber you sound genuine at the end. Keep producing.
Excellent video, thanks very much. I liked your little messages that popped up.
Jim, wanted to provide you an update to my 2nd set of coilover install. Using your method of loosing the axle bolt made this install SO MUCH EASIER! I was fearful about getting the axle back into the hub, but had no trouble at all. You saved me about 30mins on each side and a ton less stress in trying to break loose the ball joints with a separator. Well done my friend!
FYI, after 6 years of owning my QuickJack, I found out 2 weeks ago (tried it during this recent install) that you can disconnect the hoses once the QJ is in place and locked. Try it next time Jim so that you don't have hoses all over the place.
Glad it helped you! Thanks for the tip on the Quickjack hoses.
Be sure to tighten the axle nut to 340 ft lbs., (it's recommended to replace the nut) most people won't have a torque wrench that can go that high, so I used simple math using my weight times the length of my breaker bar (170lbs x 2 ft).
@@atm4jim thanks Jim for the reminder. My torque wrench goes up to 250ft/lbs so I had to have my local PCar shop tighten the nut.
Great to see you back at it again Jim. Onwards to 1k!
Thanks Jeremy! It's been a while, hope you're doing well. As you may saw, I got the M12 stubby tool finally too, lol.
@@atm4jim I did notice the M12. Glad you finally pulled the trigger on it... Pun intended lol
It Looks really nice Jim 😉👍 Good videos, you deserve more subscribers tho!
Good video, good job the Bilstein description is clear . I have the impression you should improve your German , driving a German car! LOL BTW The next video pls without music , I cannot hear your explanation with the music. Did you get any error codes with the PASM at the end?
No error, shouldn't get it, this version has PASM, but also keep in mind, I'm running DSC Sport Controller. The music was intended to distract from my rambling, lol. Thanks
I watch for the information. Did not give ride impression with the new setup
First impression, it's very good, a bit firmer as expected but not harsh. Not enough seat time to really know yet and don't want to risk pushing it on public roads, but less body roll and less front end dive under hard braking. I haven't pushed it yet, but will on next track day.
Jim, great video and thanks for making! I know this job was a few years ago, but wondering how you like the B16 kit, and if the ride quality was worth the expense over stock? I’m debating doing a B12 pro kit with the Eibachs, or just spending the extra money for the B16 coil over kit. My car is a 2010 C2S, with PASM, so should be easier to install than your AWD turbo. If you were to do it again, would you buy the B16 kit, or something else?
I'm happy with the B16 kit as I wanted to keep PASM, adjustable ride height, blue springs(not yellow lol), and higher spring rates for hybrid between street (not too pot holes in my area) and light track use. It will depend on what you're trying to achieve over stock and type of driving and roads condition in your area. The spring is stiffer so you will certainly notice it on rough roads but it's not harsh with PASM and DSC controller. Yes, should be easier to install since you don't have front axles to deal with when trying to remove/install struts assembly to clear the fenders. Looks like about $1K price difference between the two from Rock Auto.
I fought and fought to try and remove the front struts without removing the axel nut and then I removed it and got the strut out in like 10 seconds. That is the only way to do it. I went with the Bilstein B8 pasm with eibach springs since I did not want to deal with coilovers. My car was lowered around 3/4" which is perfect. One thing that I did not count on was now I really cant get the quickjack with the large rubber blocks under the car since it is lowered. The small blocks dont give enough clearance to lift the car. It will be interesting if you have the same problem or not.
Yes, I had a similar struggle last year when replacing the struts to B4. I've seen several people in forums without issues but these are 2 wheel drive cars, lol. I finally managed to do it by pulling and pulling but as it turns out, I pulled the CV axle away from the diff. Fortunately, I was able to push it back without issues.
As for the Quickjack, yes I had the same issue too when lowering. So I raised the car and lowered it and quickly removed the larger blocks before the car settled down. The lower block is a tad short but is working for now. Thanks!
Could you not just use spring compressors to slightly shorten the spring (and therefore the strut assembly) before trying to swing it out under the fender?
@@pjay3028 Actually, that wont help. The strut center bar is extended and attached to the cap. That is the part that will not be pulled down when the spring is compressed. The easiest way is just to take the center hub nut off and then it is sooooo easy. Not hard to do and saves hours and hours of struggling to try to do it other ways.
@@ski4mike if the strut can't be shortened when the spring is compressed then it won't work as a suspension system. You would need to press the top mount down, once the spring is compressed, but you would only be pressing against the gas pressure in the damper which is quite easy to overcome.
Any popping noises on steering? Mine does that after lowering my C4S, but only on full turning, like for u turns. Great content. Glad to see you still at it. Really appreciate your content. Hope u been well
That was my first concern, added noise or being too firm. But so far so good, no noises yet. I was worried I forgot something or had parts in the wrong order, many ways to botch the install. In fact, I had to check torque on some bolts a few times, a major hassle but good peace of mind. Thanks!
Will need to do a few more U turns to confirm, but so far so good.
@@atm4jim cool!
What are these popping noises caused by?
@@herewegoagain8186 no clue. Half the rattle and pops went away after new tie rod ends
Another well informed DIY JIm. I actually used your first shock videos to perform mine a while ago. In that process, I actually removed all the ball joints below and will agree, it's a PITA but does allow substantial movement of the hub. Performing the project by removing the axle bolt, how safe was it in terms of not damaging the exterior CV boot and well as the axle it self?
I didn't have any issues, again much easier than removing lower ball joint and risking damaging the ball joint boot.
@@atm4jim My custom FEAL coilovers are due in early Feb so I will try you technique and see how it works out. Cheers!
You did not show the install of the back struts
It's coming, still have to edit it which takes me hours, I'm rusty...
Great video as always. I have a question why did you have to replace the top of the strut with OEM? I thought the B16’s are a direct replacement are they not?
Yes, but the Bilstein B16 kit does not come with the top mount for the front and rear. You need to re-use your old top mounts or replace with after market camber mounts like Taretts which people do if you want more camber for track use.
@@atm4jim I am glad I watched your video because I will be doing this in the spring as well. Do you happen to have the part numbers of everything else that I need when I replace my OEM with the B16’s?
@@John-fv3bz I'll place them in the video description when I get a chance.
@@atm4jim thank you so much. This will help me tremendously.
JIm, I have the same B16 damptronics and my fronts did not come with the rubber that goes on the needle bearing. text in your video says Bilstein came with it but then you verbally said you bought a new set. do you know what part number the rubber part is?
Sorry, yes, I think you're referring to this which I've added in the video descriptions already - Front Coil Spring rubber shim 996 343 525 00 x 2
@@atm4jim thank you so much! I am buying all the parts so I don’t have to take my stock suspension apart.
@@empivw Good idea and makes sense to replace them.
Ma hai cambiato solo anteriori o tutti e 4 ?
Do you have list of torque specs for the bolts you removed/loosened?
Sorry, I had some written down that I found online via search when doing this project, mostly in forums but don't have it anymore.
Hi Jim, how did you set the height(s)? I can’t find any instructions from Bilstein on an approximate position for maybe 1” drop all around. Any tips are greatly appreciated - or info on how far up/down yours sit. Thanks in advance.
The max drop recommended by Bilstein manual is 20mm or 0.8" (for TUV rating?). I tried to keep the same rake between front and rear height as the factory. I ended up lowering the front by 20mm (0.8") and the rear by 15 mm ( 0.6"). I'm happy with this setup - not so low that I'm scraping in the street and my driveway and maintain the suspension travel that Bilstein designed for. There are upper and lower measurement limits in the struts and shocks as shown in the manual, 235 - 255mm for the rear shocks and 125 - 145 mm front struts. There is a long thread by Cannga in 6speedonline with lots of info and details, see link in the description above.
I’ve done the Eibachs springs only. Cost $380.00. Lowered about 1/2 or more with original shocks. B-16 is better because you can adjust the height. That’s my next modification. I thought they stop making that kit?
It was back ordered/unavailable for many months but are in stock again. Sorry for the late reply.
Did you change your steering wheel?
Yes, it's from the newer 991 generation, specifically the Macan.
@ Jim Wong at the 14.38 marker you have listed the torque specs. Is the front and the rear considered an M8 screw/bolt? If so, does that mean the torque spec for the front/rear is only 13NM?
I measured the diameter, so M8 is 8mm thread diameter, it's a lot more than that. The rear I re-torqued after loading the suspension by using a jack or lowering the car.
@@atm4jim So does that mean that that the correct torque is only 13NM?
@@John-fv3bz No, it's more than that. I measured the strut shaft thread diameter using a caliper, I'm sure it's larger than 8mm. Are you referring to the 3 bolts for the strut mount to the car body? If so those bolts are only about 26 ft lbs. Also don't mix up ft lbs and NM.
Found this on Rennlist but confirm the bolt thread diameter as it maybe different from below.
Rear
Screw connection for securing shock absorber to mount (piston rod) - with and without PASM (M12 x 1 fastening nut)
Please note: Do not grease screwed connections in Dacromet finish - aluminium colour.
Tightening torque 32 (24 ftlb.) Nm
Front
Spring strut mount to piston rod M14 x 1.5
Caution: Do not grease screwed connections in Dacromet finish - aluminium colour.
Tightening torque 80 (59 ftlb.) Nm
Yeah, I think the above is for OEM PASM not B16. Again, just measure the strut/shock shaft thread diameter. I just measured my front strut and it's M14 so the torque is 72NM or 56 ft lbs.
I received my B16's today but they did not come with the rubber pieces that you are mentioning at the 13:25 min marker. Do you happen to have the PN for that rubber piece? Is it 996-343-511-00?
Sorry, I was thinking for the rear which came with the rubber pieces. Yes, the front does not come with it. It's part number 996 343 525 00 as listed in the video description above. My old ones were still good but still a good idea to replace.
The part you listed does look very similar and I'm not sure what the differences are.
@@atm4jim Thank you so much. I just saw the rubber shim parts after I posted this. As I am looking at the Billsteins are they marked anywhere left/right side?
@@John-fv3bz I had the same question, both sides look identical, same part numbers so led me to believe it should not matter. What matters of course are the OEM top mounts.
I just oriented the Bilstein offset top piece to where the spring sits evenly though it will eventually settle on its own from the car's weight and from L/R steering.
@@atm4jim Great thank you, yeah I figured the mounts did matter in the front at least. The rears have identical PN so it must not matter which one goes to left/right.
@@atm4jim One more question. If I don't feel like taking off the old front struts apart. I will also need PN 996-343-523-00 X2 correct? Also, when installing the bearings, does the plastic part that hold the bearings in place go facing down or facing up?
You ever gonna upgrade to a 997.2 turbo s? I traded my 08 turbo in for it and it’s the best decision I’ve ever made
Really, Why? I thought 997.1 and .2 are very similar though I know there were many small changes (lots of part numbers are different between the two) and improvements like upgraded intercoolers, slightly larger engine displacement, upgraded PCM, PDK, etc. and changes I presumed were lessons learned from the .1 that made it more reliable. Though the S also has a lot of the upgraded options already included like PCCB and with the PDK, makes it a lot faster. But no plans on upgrading at the moment, I'm happy with what I got and the many mods I've made to make it a bit more like a .2 S.