Nice vid. I installed these on my '19 trailhawk last year. Me and another guy, in his driveway, took about 8 hours. Drilling those holes in the pinch seam weld is no joke. Used a smaller pilot hole first...took the longest, then stepped up to the correct size. I think the instructions said to drill from the inside...but all we did was mark the holes and drill from the outside. All fit fine, except for 2 on the drivers side...the skid plate blocked being able to install two of the bolts. on the underside. I wish I had used a tool like that to install the nutserts...used the manual tool which was a huge pita. Ended up not seating one of the nutserts properly...it was spinning in the hole after putting on the slider, so wasn't able to remove the slider to get the bolt out. Had to take it to a shop so they could fix it. It's satisfying to do the install...but considering the time and effort, would likely have a shop install them if I had to do it over again. They are super solid and love the look of them on my cherokee.
Thank you brotha man for the comment and view. I have a few tricks up my sleeve that I’ve done on my Jeep I feel no one has done. I want to share to the community so it can grow more. Stay tuned.
which jeep 4x4 option is installed in this one? Looking to buy a used cherokee for some overland trips but also as a daily driver. I'm not really sure how the ones without a diff locker perform offroad , what has your offroad experience been so far? (looking for a trailhawk but nearly impossible to find in my country, base cherokees more then enough)
I wish my wife would get more interested in my projects. How is the finish holding up on the RRO sliders? I have heard they flake off and rust really quickly
So these sliders are great. Overbuilt I would say. I’ve dragged my Jeep across boulders and didn’t even put a dent into the sliders. Just scratches but that’s all you get. When you hear the car riding on the slider it’s a relief to be honest because you can only imagine what would happen if you didn’t have them.
I would get the tools you need first. Source them out so your not running back and forth. The install for me took 4 hours including a cheeseburger break. But yeh.. good luck in the future.
I spent four hours just doing one side due to the pinch seam and how freaking hard that metal is. I heard about a trick using the wax from a toilet bowl wax ring when drilling metal. Yeah, that was a mistake. Created an effective lubricant layer causing me to take most of my time drilling out one hole. Also burned through several good Milwaukee Cobalt bits... My tip is this: Go to Harbor Freight and get a couple 4 packs of the the cheap Bauer titanium 1/4" bits. You will go through a few drilling through the hard steel of the pinch seam. I was able to do about 3 holes per bit. Wear safety glasses! Once the bits break through they have a tendency to bind. Even at slow speed I shattered a few bits. Not fun right in your face... The hole at the front is going to be the hardest as the metal is thicker there. Also make sure to have on hand the other size bits you will need. A 17/32 bit is not an easy one to find, so I used a 1/2" bit and wiggled it around to make the hole larger. Did it several times only taking off a little bit at a time and trying the nutsert. Once it fit, even if just barely, I called it good. For the stout plastic tab up front, I found a mini hacksaw works really well. For the blue plastic clips on the underside, I quickly gave up and pried them out with a claw hammer and then smacked the broken ones from the side to break them out. As another commenter said, you will have a bunch of open holes. It's a good idea to have a plan in place to seal them up. I'm going to be using 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive and Sealant in the now unused holes and on the screws for the nutserts to seal them up and hold them in. Oh, and the nutsert on the backdoor in the middle is a b!$%# to install. Go slow and and keep constant pressure on it. They include a slightly shorter screw in the kit for this one, but it was still too long and I deformed the metal before I caught it. I will be going to the hardware store to pick up a shorter stainless steel bolt...
Dude! It looks like you installed your sliders on the wrong side! The standard RRO super-sliders appear to be symmetrical, but the flanges that get bolted to the car are not! I have RRO super sliders for my 2019 KL Trailhawk. I got mine with the KL-kicker option. Mine are obviously not symmetrical. The kicker goes near the rear wheel. There was no chance of installing mine backwards. You commented that you skipped the farthest-front nutsert because you would have to remove the front door just to access the hole. This would not be a problem if you would swap the two sliders from side to side. When done correctly, the flange that gets bolted up to the nutserts doesn't even reach that raised rubber plug right behind the front hole. See this installation video: czcams.com/video/0tvTollsgoU/video.html The guy doesn't hold his camera steady, but you could still catch a glimpse of his super-sliders installed on the correct side. The 6 holes he drilled larger, and installed nutserts, are the opposite of the holes you drilled. Also, there is an opening in the flange where that one strip of body-filler is. No need to scrape off the body-filler just to make the flange of the slider tight to the body of the car, as demonstrated here for the Mopar rock rail installation: czcams.com/video/2W24c0wAx_s/video.html You could salvage your project. Just buy more nutserts and drill more holes.
Welp. Learn from my mistakes. The holes lined up nicely. I get you. I’ve already used them quite a few times already. I’ll go back in there and take a look. Thank you for the heads up. They are on there and don’t budge but it’s piece of mind to know that 1 hole should be bolted on. Stay tuned to part 2 of this install. I don’t want to put out false information. Seriously.
@@neekshernandez5894 This is really for the benefit of those who have not yet begun their installation. I just finished my installation, with the help of your video and others, by the way. Thanks for posting it. Here are some random thoughts from my experience: The Cherokee sheet metal where the nutserts are installed is very flimsy. Mine deformed a little during installation. The eight bolts that go into the pinch weld is where all the strength comes from. This area of the Cherokee is now vulnerable to the elements now that the plastic trim is removed. I put duct tape over all the unused holes that previously were used for the plastic trim fasteners. I'm thinking about removing the sliders and Rhino coating the whole area. I bought the RRO Cover Panel Kit to help prevent the area below the door gaskets from getting filled up with snow, slush, and salt during Chicago's winters. The fitment of the cover panel kit was less than perfect. I imagine the bottoms of the doors, and rocker panels, will now rust easily. I'll have to be pretty meticulous about keeping it clean. The Mopar rock sliders are a different design. They're not as cool-looking, but wouldn't have this problem. The "kicker" part of my sliders stick out so far, they look like airplane wings.
@@iyhnALEX brotha man stay tuned I want to fix the information I did put out plus some video of me using them when I visited Arizona. I also have an on board air system video I need to finish as well as the replacement of the front shock top mounts and where the clicking is coming from as well as using the mfc aluminum clips as replacement. You have no idea how much help your comment as meant to me. It’s great to get feedback and keeping the Jeep Cherokee community alive!
Thanks for the video. I found your suggestions very helpful. I bought cheap 1/8" and 1/4" tungsten carbide bits, which helped a lot.
Just a helpful tip for next time, a regular drill works better for drilling than a impact. 👍🏼 looks good man
Nice vid. I installed these on my '19 trailhawk last year. Me and another guy, in his driveway, took about 8 hours. Drilling those holes in the pinch seam weld is no joke. Used a smaller pilot hole first...took the longest, then stepped up to the correct size. I think the instructions said to drill from the inside...but all we did was mark the holes and drill from the outside. All fit fine, except for 2 on the drivers side...the skid plate blocked being able to install two of the bolts. on the underside.
I wish I had used a tool like that to install the nutserts...used the manual tool which was a huge pita. Ended up not seating one of the nutserts properly...it was spinning in the hole after putting on the slider, so wasn't able to remove the slider to get the bolt out. Had to take it to a shop so they could fix it.
It's satisfying to do the install...but considering the time and effort, would likely have a shop install them if I had to do it over again. They are super solid and love the look of them on my cherokee.
Thank you brotha man for the comment and view. I have a few tricks up my sleeve that I’ve done on my Jeep I feel no one has done. I want to share to the community so it can grow more. Stay tuned.
Thank you for this I needed it 🙏🏼🙌
After watching this I’m glad I decided on the factor rock sliders for my 2021
Looking into upgrades for 2021 trailhawk. Seeing options.🙂👍
Great vid! I have struggled to find slideres that fit the KL. what brand are those? Tnx!
Rocky road outfitters. That’s the sliders I was installing
The right drill bit would of helped
Use step bit
which jeep 4x4 option is installed in this one?
Looking to buy a used cherokee for some overland trips but also as a daily driver.
I'm not really sure how the ones without a diff locker perform offroad , what has your offroad experience been so far?
(looking for a trailhawk but nearly impossible to find in my country, base cherokees more then enough)
what size wheels are those? also link to where you got them please, any mods had to be done w/them?thanks bud
I wish my wife would get more interested in my projects. How is the finish holding up on the RRO sliders? I have heard they flake off and rust really quickly
I’m trying get my Jeep install help me from S.C
Is that way to install the rock slider strong enough to resist a rock hit when off roading? Any experience?
So these sliders are great. Overbuilt I would say. I’ve dragged my Jeep across boulders and didn’t even put a dent into the sliders. Just scratches but that’s all you get. When you hear the car riding on the slider it’s a relief to be honest because you can only imagine what would happen if you didn’t have them.
I'll paint the holes before the nut inserts go in.
what size are your tires?
255/70/18. Would love to go bigger but we have stock wheel and the offset of the wheel restricts the tire. The tire hits the frame at full lock.
Roughly how many hours to install both of these?
I would get the tools you need first. Source them out so your not running back and forth. The install for me took 4 hours including a cheeseburger break. But yeh.. good luck in the future.
@@neekshernandez5894 Thanks
I spent four hours just doing one side due to the pinch seam and how freaking hard that metal is. I heard about a trick using the wax from a toilet bowl wax ring when drilling metal. Yeah, that was a mistake. Created an effective lubricant layer causing me to take most of my time drilling out one hole. Also burned through several good Milwaukee Cobalt bits...
My tip is this: Go to Harbor Freight and get a couple 4 packs of the the cheap Bauer titanium 1/4" bits. You will go through a few drilling through the hard steel of the pinch seam. I was able to do about 3 holes per bit. Wear safety glasses! Once the bits break through they have a tendency to bind. Even at slow speed I shattered a few bits. Not fun right in your face... The hole at the front is going to be the hardest as the metal is thicker there.
Also make sure to have on hand the other size bits you will need. A 17/32 bit is not an easy one to find, so I used a 1/2" bit and wiggled it around to make the hole larger. Did it several times only taking off a little bit at a time and trying the nutsert. Once it fit, even if just barely, I called it good.
For the stout plastic tab up front, I found a mini hacksaw works really well. For the blue plastic clips on the underside, I quickly gave up and pried them out with a claw hammer and then smacked the broken ones from the side to break them out.
As another commenter said, you will have a bunch of open holes. It's a good idea to have a plan in place to seal them up. I'm going to be using 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive and Sealant in the now unused holes and on the screws for the nutserts to seal them up and hold them in.
Oh, and the nutsert on the backdoor in the middle is a b!$%# to install. Go slow and and keep constant pressure on it. They include a slightly shorter screw in the kit for this one, but it was still too long and I deformed the metal before I caught it. I will be going to the hardware store to pick up a shorter stainless steel bolt...
@@echonovember636 Too much work for me. I think that when I buy a new CherokeeTrailhawk that I will order one with the rock rails already installed.
Dude! It looks like you installed your sliders on the wrong side! The standard RRO super-sliders appear to be symmetrical, but the flanges that get bolted to the car are not! I have RRO super sliders for my 2019 KL Trailhawk. I got mine with the KL-kicker option. Mine are obviously not symmetrical. The kicker goes near the rear wheel. There was no chance of installing mine backwards. You commented that you skipped the farthest-front nutsert because you would have to remove the front door just to access the hole. This would not be a problem if you would swap the two sliders from side to side. When done correctly, the flange that gets bolted up to the nutserts doesn't even reach that raised rubber plug right behind the front hole.
See this installation video: czcams.com/video/0tvTollsgoU/video.html The guy doesn't hold his camera steady, but you could still catch a glimpse of his super-sliders installed on the correct side. The 6 holes he drilled larger, and installed nutserts, are the opposite of the holes you drilled.
Also, there is an opening in the flange where that one strip of body-filler is. No need to scrape off the body-filler just to make the flange of the slider tight to the body of the car, as demonstrated here for the Mopar rock rail installation: czcams.com/video/2W24c0wAx_s/video.html
You could salvage your project. Just buy more nutserts and drill more holes.
Welp. Learn from my mistakes. The holes lined up nicely. I get you. I’ve already used them quite a few times already. I’ll go back in there and take a look. Thank you for the heads up. They are on there and don’t budge but it’s piece of mind to know that 1 hole should be bolted on. Stay tuned to part 2 of this install. I don’t want to put out false information. Seriously.
@@neekshernandez5894 This is really for the benefit of those who have not yet begun their installation. I just finished my installation, with the help of your video and others, by the way. Thanks for posting it. Here are some random thoughts from my experience:
The Cherokee sheet metal where the nutserts are installed is very flimsy. Mine deformed a little during installation. The eight bolts that go into the pinch weld is where all the strength comes from.
This area of the Cherokee is now vulnerable to the elements now that the plastic trim is removed. I put duct tape over all the unused holes that previously were used for the plastic trim fasteners. I'm thinking about removing the sliders and Rhino coating the whole area. I bought the RRO Cover Panel Kit to help prevent the area below the door gaskets from getting filled up with snow, slush, and salt during Chicago's winters. The fitment of the cover panel kit was less than perfect. I imagine the bottoms of the doors, and rocker panels, will now rust easily. I'll have to be pretty meticulous about keeping it clean. The Mopar rock sliders are a different design. They're not as cool-looking, but wouldn't have this problem.
The "kicker" part of my sliders stick out so far, they look like airplane wings.
@@iyhnALEX so do you prefer the kickers look?
@@iyhnALEX brotha man stay tuned I want to fix the information I did put out plus some video of me using them when I visited Arizona. I also have an on board air system video I need to finish as well as the replacement of the front shock top mounts and where the clicking is coming from as well as using the mfc aluminum clips as replacement. You have no idea how much help your comment as meant to me. It’s great to get feedback and keeping the Jeep Cherokee community alive!
Hi