It's been over 50 years since I helped change oil on our 2 G's, sure brought back memories. Used to cultivate with a narrow front with a 4 row, sure wish we had the power steering kit on ours! No live hydraulics made turning that thing around and getting onto the next 4 rows a bear. Pop always made me stop in the ends to lift the cultivator. Get to the end, clutch back, shift to neutral, clutch ahead-raise cultivator, clutch back-shift into 2nd-clutch ahead and then try to turn that thing around. Was the toughest kid in school mostly from cultivating corn and beans with that G.
Thanks Lee! I love listening to these tractors too. I have many more videos on this G, as well as my A, and B. I think my next Johnny Popper will be a D.
Take it for what you want but I've been a mechanic for many years and worked on many old equipment I have a 1949 a and the way I got that sludge out of mine was ATF in with the motor oil and driving it and then changing it take me about three times and it was spotless
My '37 A had a tar ball blocking the drain the first time I changed the oil. Scared the crap out of me when no oil came out. The tractor had been idling for half an hour while it was being trailered home from the seller's place. Did the screwdriver trick and a diesel fuel flush. Turned out fine. Nice G!
Glad to hear that I'm not the only one with this luck. It is scary for sure when you pull that plug and nothing comes out!! haha. Glad yours has been good. I'm going to have an upcoming video on this G hopefully fully restoring the oil pressure. I'm hoping it's just caked around the oil pump and restricting it.
It's a bit spendy to do but. Overfill it with automatic transmission fluid and let it run at high idle for an hour or two. The stuff is a super cleaner with excellent lubricating properties and will break that sludge up and hold it in suspension long enough to do a fluid dump. If you are cheap, stop by a transmission shop and get a few buckets of old fluid and run it through an old Tee shirt to take the chunks out and use that to do several flushes With a good story the odds are they will let you have the old fluid for free.
Yea, that stinks. That screen around the oil pump is probably covered in gunk. That could certainly be affecting the oil pressure. It may also need adjusted. It's a good idea to drop the oil pump. As for the crankcase cover, if you can just get that off and not have to take all of the other stuff that would certainly make it easier. There is just one line going into the oil pump housing that you have to undo. It isn't like the B's that have multiple lines and it's a nightmare. When you go to put it back together, make sure the oil pump drive shaft lines up in the coupler as you know. I almost had a tragic mistake the other day when I noticed mine wasn't engaged when I drew it up in and fastened it down. Keep up the good work.
I’ve had my B apart and I felt like those lines were a nightmare as you mentioned... Glad to hear the situation may be better with the G. I referenced some of your videos to see what t expect with mine, so thank you!
@@TractorHoarders I got thinking. If you haven't gone into the engine yet, see if you can see the casting numbers on the pistons if you get a chance. Someone has spent some time and money on that tractor by the looks of it (water pump, power steering, pressed rear steel). I wouldn't be surprised if there is something special inside.
Got myself an A and a B, both 1946 models and I’m hoping to acquire a G sooner or later. You’ve got yourself a nice looking tractor. Always have found chainring the oil in the A a tad strange compared to other tractors I’ve worked with. Hope she’s treated you well.
I started with my 1948 B. It’s a family tractor. Last year I picked up a 1950 A. Just a few months ago I picked up this 1950 G. It’s a great tractor so far! I’ve got many videos of all these tractors on my channel if you want to check them out. Nice to “meet” you on here! Sounds like you have a nice collection too. They’re some of my favorite tractors.
You can get a calibrated gauge and check to see what the oil pressure actually is reading, you might have a bad gauge. There is a way to adjust the tractor's oil pressure on the side of the crank case although I have found that it usually makes little difference. Normal oil pressure is only 10-12 psi.
Good video 👍 Your assumption about the strainer around the oil pump is valid to remove that next time. You didnt remove the primary drive case tiny drain bolt. Milky condensation always collects in there in a few months. Drain it often and refill with any new oil 1/2 Quart
Very similar to operate for sure! The G just has a little more "thump" to it. What part of the country are you in, Robert? I am in Colorado somewhat near Denver, but originally from Ohio.
I've done some serious work with a "G." Then Dad traded it for a 70 that I did some SERIOUS work with, then a 730, then some really serious work with a 4020.
Those are all excellent tractors! This G is my first experience into the G family tree (G,70,70D,720,730). They all started with a good bloodline! 😁 I’d love to come across a deal on any of those you mention. To keep inline with the letter series, I’d like a D and H too.
Lol, it was already uploaded and scheduled for publish! I do feel good about it being OK at the moment for at least anything I’ll do with it, which isn’t much. I am hopeful that pressure comes up after cleaning it out real good though. I will most definitely share what I pull out of it. Feels thick.
@@TractorHoarders I'm just giving you a hard time. Ha ha. I'm sure there is plenty of sludge in the bottom, judging by when you pulled the plug, yet it was still "plugged", If say it's a fair assumption.
Old girl sounds good, i need to get something done with my B, hasnt run in 25 years, would turn over up till a few years ago. Had some idiots get it jammed in between gears and yanked the shifter out of it.
Dying to get it done, doesnt help when its 50 miles from electricity. Horse traded my grandfather (who it came from) a bunch of work on the 46 D2 for the wide front off the styled A that had the farm hand. My goal is to just have it kickin around the place with a small front loader for pulling and moving engines and maybe a little gardening. I have a fairly decent assortment of antique yard art, but some of it could go again, the two sicle bars and the spud digger work. We have a 37 A at the ranch that still chooches too. Plan was to fix the pinion clutch in the D2 and take it down to our old homestead place (that hasnt ranched since the early 70s) and drag the A and the B up to the house and try to figure out a way to get them to the top of the hill to put on a trailer, or fix the low road that washed out. After about the 5th time of pulling the pony we succeded in mostly - partly fixing the pinion and ran out of summer time. Fast forward a couple years, grandfather is 79 in two days and slowing down and i live on the other side of the state. Need to make some time for it though, for multiple reasons. I appreciate the video, was a boon to my motivation.
I bought a B that was stored in a shed. I brought it home and for a while it sat inside but eventually I needed room in my shed so I made sure to cover the muffler and intake. It sat for a month or so and when I tried to start it yesterday, I had water squirting out of the compression relief valve on one side. How bad could it be
I don't think the rear wheels are the ones that the tractor came out with, all the later A, B, G's had cast iron wheels that the steel rims attached to. I have seen many that have the wheels an what I call backwards, with the lugs and nuts on the inside, doubles the time and effort to change the tires. I've changed tires many times, starting with helping my dad when I was 4 or 5 years. He bought the G in 1956.
You're right. A previous owner of this tractor must have swapped them out. The pressed steel wheels that I have are usually desirable by people into tractor pulling because it allows them to cut weight to get into lower classes. I personally wouldn't mind swapping these out back to the original cast center wheels.
I bet your neighbors love your hobby. Hope you don’t have any Karen’s in the neighborhood. I still have a family owned since new 530. Changed the oil once and ball bearings fell out. Come to find out a bearing in the governor gave out. Easy fix.
haha! My neighbors are extremely forgiving. I'm sure it helps that I do a lot of snow removal for the neighborhood in the winter. Man, finding ball bearings rolling around in the crank case would be scary. Glad you found the cause. I guess in a way you lucked out that it was an easy fix! :)
Oh man, The Pipe. I loved that. Do they even still have it? They introduced it years back with a new Oreo shake (not the current one). Or so I’ve heard. Lol 😏
Hi Noah, I can not claim to be an expert on this subject and I know many people have a wide variety of opinions on oil and filters. To my knowledge, NAPA filters are manufactured by WIX. Whether or not they are better or worse than John Deere (not sure who makes those... maybe Baldwin?), I do not know. It'd be interesting to find a side by side comparison where they are cut apart. Thanks for the comment! Maybe I'll get a few filters and do that comparison in a future video.
@@TractorHoarders I'm sure you know a lot tractors as well I got a John Deere g as well It definitely has some horsepower to it I need to get it out and run it again and believe I got it on CZcams it would just be under my name
@@noahhelmuth6497 Cool, I will check it out! I have wanted a G for a long time.... like 20 years. I just recently got this one and am very happy to start learning about it. I've never actually worked mine, but am looking forward to doing some plowing with it.
I like it....need to set your wheels into 30" rows.... I guess that a good example of, you can take the boy out of the country, but you cant take the country out of the boy....lol Nice video....
Im an old farmer put one quart trans fluid to every three quarts engine oilrun for a couple hrs and drain one gallon diesel with one gallon oil will work also
@@TractorHoarders yes and change filter we would do this every time we’d buy a used tractor or truck we’d do this until the oil was clean enough. Remember this RPM’s means wear the old johnnies were low RPM’s that’s one reason they last longer without major problems. All the other had twice the RPM’s wear out faster and cost twice as much or more to repair or overhaul. Have a nice popping weekend.
Haha, I think they have accepted the fact that I am their neighbor and it's just how I am. I do a lot of snow removal for our neighbors in the winter, so they put up with me. :)
@Tractor Hoarders Who knows the last time it was flushed. Read an old operator's manual. After draining the oil, you filled the crankcase with kerosene and ran it for a few minutes then drained it and changed the filter and added oil. NON DETERGENT OIL. Don't let it bother you. Use 30wt detergent oil, clean the vent filter. You can remove the crankcase cover and see how much play the rods have. You also might be able to just replace the crank babbits. Get a good shop manual and have fun. I bought a 47 A once that had sat for 17 years. Fresh gas, cleaned the points, made sure nothing under the valve cover was stuck. Fired it up and drove it on the trailer.
Had a weird thing happen to our G when i was a kid Had left it setting in the field. I checked oil nexy morning it appeared to be thin. On further checking discovered crankcase full of gas. Only thing posdible the carberator leaked gas straight through into crankcase or a bad prank by a passer by putting it in there.
Observing you changing oil. Having grown up on a G spent many days in the field on it have many stories to tell. But i do not recall the oil filter being in that location. I am 77 maybe my memory is fading
You could dilute the oil with about 50% diesel fuel to rinse the crankcase and block out. Let it run at medium idle without pulling anything then drain. Diesel fuel has lubricating qualities plus cleaning.
It was so thick in the bottom of that crank case! I put my finger in and could feel it all over. I'm going to try and open it up and take a peek in there. It feels like I may need to scrape it out of there. I'll have a follow-up video on this.
@@logpile1318 I totally believe it! When I was younger I never wore hearing protection, but now I’m starting to. I’m sure a long day in the field could leave your ears ringing all night!
Lucas, I’m not sure, but I agree that it doesn’t sound stock to me. I just got it a few months ago at auction and couldn’t ask the previous owner anything unfortunately.
Haha, I don't think I can go back after using this new fangled stuff. lol. Both do the job and are similar prices. I think the Super Clean absorbent really works better... like less material to suck up more mess.... that kinda thing.
I get it at Walmart. I’m not picky about oil brands in these old tractors because everything produced today is better than what was available in the 1950s.
It's been over 50 years since I helped change oil on our 2 G's, sure brought back memories.
Used to cultivate with a narrow front with a 4 row, sure wish we had the power steering kit on ours! No live hydraulics made turning that thing around and getting onto the next 4 rows a bear. Pop always made me stop in the ends to lift the cultivator. Get to the end, clutch back, shift to neutral, clutch ahead-raise cultivator, clutch back-shift into 2nd-clutch ahead and then try to turn that thing around. Was the toughest kid in school mostly from cultivating corn and beans with that G.
I grew up on a G and that “Johnny pop” sound is like music to me to this day. Thanks. You took me back time there for a bit.
Thanks Lee! I love listening to these tractors too. I have many more videos on this G, as well as my A, and B. I think my next Johnny Popper will be a D.
Take it for what you want but I've been a mechanic for many years and worked on many old equipment I have a 1949 a and the way I got that sludge out of mine was ATF in with the motor oil and driving it and then changing it take me about three times and it was spotless
Sounds like a good idea to me. I’ll give that a try in a few of mine. Thanks for the suggestion!
My '37 A had a tar ball blocking the drain the first time I changed the oil. Scared the crap out of me when no oil came out. The tractor had been idling for half an hour while it was being trailered home from the seller's place. Did the screwdriver trick and a diesel fuel flush. Turned out fine. Nice G!
Glad to hear that I'm not the only one with this luck. It is scary for sure when you pull that plug and nothing comes out!! haha. Glad yours has been good. I'm going to have an upcoming video on this G hopefully fully restoring the oil pressure. I'm hoping it's just caked around the oil pump and restricting it.
It's a bit spendy to do but. Overfill it with automatic transmission fluid and let it run at high idle for an hour or two. The stuff is a super cleaner with excellent lubricating properties and will break that sludge up and hold it in suspension long enough to do a fluid dump.
If you are cheap, stop by a transmission shop and get a few buckets of old fluid and run it through an old Tee shirt to take the chunks out and use that to do several flushes With a good story the odds are they will let you have the old fluid for free.
Diesel fuel does just as well just use oil mixed in. Diesel has lubricating properties plus cleaning
Yea, that stinks. That screen around the oil pump is probably covered in gunk. That could certainly be affecting the oil pressure. It may also need adjusted. It's a good idea to drop the oil pump. As for the crankcase cover, if you can just get that off and not have to take all of the other stuff that would certainly make it easier. There is just one line going into the oil pump housing that you have to undo. It isn't like the B's that have multiple lines and it's a nightmare. When you go to put it back together, make sure the oil pump drive shaft lines up in the coupler as you know. I almost had a tragic mistake the other day when I noticed mine wasn't engaged when I drew it up in and fastened it down. Keep up the good work.
I’ve had my B apart and I felt like those lines were a nightmare as you mentioned...
Glad to hear the situation may be better with the G. I referenced some of your videos to see what t expect with mine, so thank you!
@@TractorHoarders I got thinking. If you haven't gone into the engine yet, see if you can see the casting numbers on the pistons if you get a chance. Someone has spent some time and money on that tractor by the looks of it (water pump, power steering, pressed rear steel). I wouldn't be surprised if there is something special inside.
@Daniel Whitlow and with some extra rpms that would accelerate babbit wear, and it usually shows itself in the bottom of the crankcase.
Got myself an A and a B, both 1946 models and I’m hoping to acquire a G sooner or later. You’ve got yourself a nice looking tractor. Always have found chainring the oil in the A a tad strange compared to other tractors I’ve worked with. Hope she’s treated you well.
I started with my 1948 B. It’s a family tractor. Last year I picked up a 1950 A. Just a few months ago I picked up this 1950 G. It’s a great tractor so far! I’ve got many videos of all these tractors on my channel if you want to check them out. Nice to “meet” you on here! Sounds like you have a nice collection too. They’re some of my favorite tractors.
You can get a calibrated gauge and check to see what the oil pressure actually is reading, you might have a bad gauge. There is a way to adjust the tractor's oil pressure on the side of the crank case although I have found that it usually makes little difference. Normal oil pressure is only 10-12 psi.
Good video 👍
Your assumption about the strainer around the oil pump is valid to remove that next time.
You didnt remove the primary drive case tiny drain bolt. Milky condensation always collects in there in a few months. Drain it often and refill with any new oil 1/2 Quart
I have operated my fair share of “A”s but never a G. Nice looking tractor.
Very similar to operate for sure! The G just has a little more "thump" to it. What part of the country are you in, Robert? I am in Colorado somewhat near Denver, but originally from Ohio.
I've done some serious work with a "G." Then Dad traded it for a 70 that I did some SERIOUS work with, then a 730, then some really serious work with a 4020.
And a few hours on "D." My older brothers spent a LOT of hours on "D"s.
Those are all excellent tractors! This G is my first experience into the G family tree (G,70,70D,720,730). They all started with a good bloodline! 😁
I’d love to come across a deal on any of those you mention. To keep inline with the letter series, I’d like a D and H too.
HEY! We were JUST talking about this - and then you go and post a video WHILE you are hanging out with me?! Ha ha!
Lol, it was already uploaded and scheduled for publish! I do feel good about it being OK at the moment for at least anything I’ll do with it, which isn’t much. I am hopeful that pressure comes up after cleaning it out real good though. I will most definitely share what I pull out of it. Feels thick.
@@TractorHoarders I'm just giving you a hard time. Ha ha. I'm sure there is plenty of sludge in the bottom, judging by when you pulled the plug, yet it was still "plugged", If say it's a fair assumption.
Good stuff, thank you Hans! 🇺🇸🚜👍
Thanks Hyatt! Some of the videos like these that I make are in hopes to preserve some of the maintenance procedure information for future generations.
Old girl sounds good, i need to get something done with my B, hasnt run in 25 years, would turn over up till a few years ago. Had some idiots get it jammed in between gears and yanked the shifter out of it.
Hopefully you can take some time to get it going again. It’s a great feeling to get one working after sitting so long,
Dying to get it done, doesnt help when its 50 miles from electricity. Horse traded my grandfather (who it came from) a bunch of work on the 46 D2 for the wide front off the styled A that had the farm hand. My goal is to just have it kickin around the place with a small front loader for pulling and moving engines and maybe a little gardening. I have a fairly decent assortment of antique yard art, but some of it could go again, the two sicle bars and the spud digger work. We have a 37 A at the ranch that still chooches too.
Plan was to fix the pinion clutch in the D2 and take it down to our old homestead place (that hasnt ranched since the early 70s) and drag the A and the B up to the house and try to figure out a way to get them to the top of the hill to put on a trailer, or fix the low road that washed out. After about the 5th time of pulling the pony we succeded in mostly - partly fixing the pinion and ran out of summer time. Fast forward a couple years, grandfather is 79 in two days and slowing down and i live on the other side of the state. Need to make some time for it though, for multiple reasons. I appreciate the video, was a boon to my motivation.
As a rule when changing oil on a tractor I empty into a 5 gallon bucket, it’s much easier to control.
Yes, I agree with that!
I bought a B that was stored in a shed. I brought it home and for a while it sat inside but eventually I needed room in my shed so I made sure to cover the muffler and intake. It sat for a month or so and when I tried to start it yesterday, I had water squirting out of the compression relief valve on one side. How bad could it be
Just a thought but you can adjust the oil pressure on most of these two cylinders John Deeres , as I say just a thought, regards DAvid
I don't think the rear wheels are the ones that the tractor came out with, all the later A, B, G's had cast iron wheels that the steel rims attached to. I have seen many that have the wheels an what I call backwards, with the lugs and nuts on the inside, doubles the time and effort to change the tires. I've changed tires many times, starting with helping my dad when I was 4 or 5 years. He bought the G in 1956.
You're right. A previous owner of this tractor must have swapped them out. The pressed steel wheels that I have are usually desirable by people into tractor pulling because it allows them to cut weight to get into lower classes. I personally wouldn't mind swapping these out back to the original cast center wheels.
When the oil comes out too fast, just wear disposable gloves and stop it.
I bet your neighbors love your hobby. Hope you don’t have any Karen’s in the neighborhood. I still have a family owned since new 530. Changed the oil once and ball bearings fell out. Come to find out a bearing in the governor gave out. Easy fix.
haha! My neighbors are extremely forgiving. I'm sure it helps that I do a lot of snow removal for the neighborhood in the winter. Man, finding ball bearings rolling around in the crank case would be scary. Glad you found the cause. I guess in a way you lucked out that it was an easy fix! :)
Grab yourself "The Pipe" from the BK milkshake and get that sludge out.
Oh man, The Pipe. I loved that. Do they even still have it? They introduced it years back with a new Oreo shake (not the current one). Or so I’ve heard. Lol 😏
@@TractorHoarders To my knowledge, they do not, but I hardly watch TV or go out to eat.
Sorry to tell you sir but I believe the John Deere fillers come with the rings the Napa ones are cheaper than the deer
Hi Noah, I can not claim to be an expert on this subject and I know many people have a wide variety of opinions on oil and filters. To my knowledge, NAPA filters are manufactured by WIX. Whether or not they are better or worse than John Deere (not sure who makes those... maybe Baldwin?), I do not know. It'd be interesting to find a side by side comparison where they are cut apart. Thanks for the comment! Maybe I'll get a few filters and do that comparison in a future video.
@@TractorHoarders I'm sure you know a lot tractors as well I got a John Deere g as well It definitely has some horsepower to it I need to get it out and run it again and believe I got it on CZcams it would just be under my name
@@noahhelmuth6497 Cool, I will check it out! I have wanted a G for a long time.... like 20 years. I just recently got this one and am very happy to start learning about it. I've never actually worked mine, but am looking forward to doing some plowing with it.
I like it....need to set your wheels into 30" rows....
I guess that a good example of, you can take the boy out of the country, but you cant take the country out of the boy....lol
Nice video....
Im an old farmer put one quart trans fluid to every three quarts engine oilrun for a couple hrs and drain one gallon diesel with one gallon oil will work also
Thanks Chuck, I’ll give it a try. Do you think this will work even with very solid and thick sludge at the bottom?
@@TractorHoarders yes and change filter we would do this every time we’d buy a used tractor or truck we’d do this until the oil was clean enough. Remember this RPM’s means wear the old johnnies were low RPM’s that’s one reason they last longer without major problems. All the other had twice the RPM’s wear out faster and cost twice as much or more to repair or overhaul. Have a nice popping weekend.
What do your neighbors think of your JD, when you take it for a spin?
Haha, I think they have accepted the fact that I am their neighbor and it's just how I am. I do a lot of snow removal for our neighbors in the winter, so they put up with me. :)
Build up is babbit bearing wear. Might pay to check things internally a little bit.
You've got me scared now! It's got an awful lot of sludge in it. I hope it's not that. Thanks for the info!
@Tractor Hoarders Who knows the last time it was flushed. Read an old operator's manual. After draining the oil, you filled the crankcase with kerosene and ran it for a few minutes then drained it and changed the filter and added oil. NON DETERGENT OIL. Don't let it bother you. Use 30wt detergent oil, clean the vent filter. You can remove the crankcase cover and see how much play the rods have. You also might be able to just replace the crank babbits. Get a good shop manual and have fun. I bought a 47 A once that had sat for 17 years. Fresh gas, cleaned the points, made sure nothing under the valve cover was stuck. Fired it up and drove it on the trailer.
First reduction gear requires gear oil not engine oil
Had a weird thing happen to our G when i was a kid
Had left it setting in the field. I checked oil nexy morning it appeared to be thin. On further checking discovered crankcase full of gas. Only thing posdible the carberator leaked gas straight through into crankcase or a bad prank by a passer by putting it in there.
Observing you changing oil. Having grown up on a G spent many days in the field on it have many stories to tell. But i do not recall the oil filter being in that location. I am 77 maybe my memory is fading
You could dilute the oil with about 50% diesel fuel to rinse the crankcase and block out. Let it run at medium idle without pulling anything then drain. Diesel fuel has lubricating qualities plus cleaning.
I bet you’re right about the carburetor leaking as straight through. The float might have gotten stuck or hung open and let gas keeping running in.
I’m going to try your suggestion with 50/50 oil and diesel. Thanks!
Power steering??
Yep!! 😁
Fill it full of diesel and let it sit for a couple days then run it again and then drain
I would go another round of flushing that out, and I would drive it for about 10 minutes too, won't hurt it.
It was so thick in the bottom of that crank case! I put my finger in and could feel it all over. I'm going to try and open it up and take a peek in there. It feels like I may need to scrape it out of there. I'll have a follow-up video on this.
How could you work it hard when you live in a cul de sac?
That’s where I live but not the only property I own. Welcome to my channel and check out my other videos.
@@TractorHoarders I used to cultivate with one of those, it'll make you go deaf sitting on that all day with no ear protection
@@logpile1318 I totally believe it! When I was younger I never wore hearing protection, but now I’m starting to. I’m sure a long day in the field could leave your ears ringing all night!
What's been done to the tractor engine wise? It doesnt sound 100 percent stock
Lucas, I’m not sure, but I agree that it doesn’t sound stock to me. I just got it a few months ago at auction and couldn’t ask the previous owner anything unfortunately.
Rotella T oil has the most zinc in it
Definitely good stuff. I run Rotella T6 in my truck, and T4 in some of my tractors.
No it doesn't, test show the walmart oil he put in has more zinc,
Rotella T does not have as much zinc in it as it used to
Thats old oil not changed just added sucks when people do that
Agreed! Totally disappointing to find that. Kind of hard to believe some people just do no maintenance.
Nope I use straight cat litter
Haha, I don't think I can go back after using this new fangled stuff. lol. Both do the job and are similar prices. I think the Super Clean absorbent really works better... like less material to suck up more mess.... that kinda thing.
Next change , do it HOT……. Thanks
It was about as hot as I could get it without doing some real work. It felt like it was about an inch thick on the bottom of the crankcase. Crazy!
You should run it for 25 minutes before changing oil...
through the magic of video editing, you didn't see it running for a half hour prior. no one would watch that :)
@@TractorHoarders how long did you let it cool for? I take it out right away after i turn the key off in my farmall 450
@@henryofskalitz2228 same for me. I changed it immediately after shutting down. That stuff had been in there a while. Scary.
@@TractorHoarders ooooffffff
SuperTech oil?
I get it at Walmart. I’m not picky about oil brands in these old tractors because everything produced today is better than what was available in the 1950s.
@@TractorHoarders Good point! A lot of technical data indicates SuperTech is pretty good stuff.
You can turn up the oil pressure i believe. Can do it on an A and a 60.
Yeah you can. I haven’t tried that because I guess I’m being stubborn and assume something is clogged. If that’s an easy fix, I’m for it. ☺️