Igor - Thank you for the fantastic video! I followed your video to upgrade my FLSun Super Racerand everything is working fine. Your eStep instructions were on point! SIDE NOTE: I did need to reverse polarity of the stepper motor for the extruder. A simple swap of the RED and BLUE wires within the stepper-motor connector did the trick. First print was perfect. Really appreciate your time and effort into producing this helpful video! :)
Interesting. I noticed when I installed my OMG yesterday that the filament orientation is not straight or aligned with the guide from the sensor. I was thinking about turning the extruded 180 degrees so the filament holes would line up better with the filament path from the sensor. If I do that, the motor would spin backwards (pressing filament in would actually move the filament out, and vice versa). Would your tip of swapping the stepper wires solve this issue? Thoughts?
@@TPA_JW if you’re comfortable flashing firmware, all you need to do is either remove or add an exclamation point from in front of the pin definition for the E axis motor (example PIN = !2.4 becomes PIN = 2.4)
If you had to swap the red and blue wire, you DID change the polarity of the stepper motor. This can be done with a adapter cable or just by swapping the + and - wires.
Thank you, Igor. Great video. Appreciate all the hard work you put in to your videos. The installation of my OMG V2-S went very smoothly. Like others, I had to swap the RED and BLUE wires in the JST connector which goes into the motor, to fix the reversal of IN and OUT directions. In my motor, the e-step value was 365. With 1.4 firmware installed, I was able to set this in the EEPROM page, directly on the touch screen.
This worked 1000%. Thank you so much for the walk through. When I bought the printer I bought your suggested upgrade at the same time. With the default bowden extruder, it chewed up any new filament. The same day I upgraded that extruder and it worked like a charm. Thank youuu
With BMG clones you first compress the original spring to the max. It will lose some tension but at the same time the force left in the spring will be more stable. Leave it compressed for a few minutes, then unscrew completely. From now on use from 3 - 5 full turns. This has worked for both of my cheapest BMG clones. The idea behind this is the fresh spring has a lot of stiffness but that stiffness drops over time and you never know how much it dropped since last print (plus it's too stiff like in the video). When you compress it fully it will drop to it's stable level and from now on will hold it.
@@TommiHonkonen No. It will still work without this procedure however you will need around 1 to max 2 turns and it may change with time. As to why not buy proper bondtech the answer is simple - price. Clone is $9, original is $100. Whole entry level printer is $175.
Excellent Video!! This gave me the courage to do it for my super racer and its perfect. My old extruder was garbage and it was nice to see the super racer print beautiful again! Thanks Brian
Thank you for this video, super helpful especially for the e-step adjustment on firmware v1.3. I replaced the stock FLSun SR extruder after the bearings wore out. Mounted reverse to this and switched the polarity of the motor harness red/blue. Estep calibrated to 381.
Awesome Video!! I just upgraded my FLSUN SR with this OMG v2 and it works great!! I did have to swap my stepper motors red and blue wires to change the polarity. Great video helped me out alot!!!
I got the OMG V2 for my Flsun SR, thanks to you. It works great with a Capricorn bowden tube, the SR is better than ever now. By the way, the OMG V2 seems to work better when it's mounted the correct way on the SR (opposite to how you did it) - with the filament holes directly under the the SR filament sensor tube. Just reverse the polarity of the motor, and it goes the right way.
Hi Igor, I just wanted to say that your video has got to be the best one out there! You did an amazing job documenting this for all of us to follow. However I feel like I need to mention that you left out a very important detail regarding the pushpin. I followed this video to a T, but you forgot to mention that the pushpin needs to have the 2 spare bearings installed into it to properly put pressure on the filament. A very big detail missed out that a couple of people on reddit, including myself spent hours trying to figure out. Other than that, amazing video! But please include this detail somewhere in your video description for others to pickup
I plan on getting one of these with a pancake motor using as a direct drive for my ender 3v2. Currently I’m using the same bmg clone extruder Igor had replaced and it’s not a bad extruder but he’s correct it just has too much tension and it’s sometimes very hard to get the filament through the last hole. Can’t wait to replace with this . Thanks for another amazing video Igor 👍
Just fitted the OMG V2-S extruder to FLSUN Super Racer and what a difference, great tip and well explained. Worked great after adjusting E-Steps thanks for the vid...
Thank you for this great vid! I did this mod asap on my SR & followed your guide upto the rotation of the omg v2s. But thanks to your commenters i caught it and flipped it around :) My final calibration settings: 335.85 z, 400estep Cheers to the commenter about rotating the V2S & reversing polarity on the stepper!
This clone extruder was a horrible choice for flsun I don’t understand why they did that. I had this bmg clone in my ender 3v2 and hated it. Kept chewing up the filament no matter how much I adjusted and kept slipping. After months of dealing with it I decided to purchase this omg v2. With the pancake stepper motor (for direct drive setup) Unfortunately I didn’t realize since I had a mosquito hic hotend it wasn’t going to work . So I returned it and went with the sprite pro . Anyway I will be purchasing the omg v2 again (without pancake) because it is so well built and in my opinion the best extruder on the market. Great video by the way been watching your videos for a while now I subscribed and liked
thanks for the video. i wished you had shown a nice before and after replacement print. So two claibration cubes with the same G code. Then we could have seen more of the difference.
Edge roller spool holders don't work with rolls with grooves on the edges. Also, if you use an edge roller you want to pull the filament up rather than down, because the latter will put a lot of the pressure onto the bearings instead of into turning it, especially at the end of the roll when the diameter is smaller.
Unsure whether you want this completely in metal. For a Bowden setup it won't matter that much, but for a direct-drive setup I think the gain in weight from ex. an SLS printed Orbiter with heigher gear ratio and hence much lighter stepper motor while retaining dual-drive, would be better suited than this block of metal. The idea is nice though. With some tweaks I think other designs might also add a second set of filament rollers, possibly then driving all four instead of just 2 as seen in this extruder and using a higher gear ratio and lighter stepper... I hope the designer of the Orbiter is listening ...
Sorry for the late reply. The MY3D team discussed your feedback. The structure of 1/4 drive can be realized, but the structure will be more responsible, and the corresponding weight and cost will increase. 2/ We have also considered using a plastic case. Due to temperature creep and other reasons, the weight of 64g is about the same as that of plastic. The new PRO is being tested. The weight will be reduced and the spring pressure can be adjusted. Thank you very much for your feedback. MY3D TEAM. At the same time, we are very grateful to Dr. Igor Gaspar for free testing of our products.
I like their design of pushing the filament at two different places. What I dont understand though is why they went for drive gears + bearings instead of Bondtech style dual drive gears. My guess is to keep the extruder more compact but thats only an idea.
We tried to change the 4 driver, but the cost is too high. For the current FDM 3D printer, the real 2 driver-which can improve the print quality at the same time-does not need to pay too high a cost.
@@my3domgv2-sfdmextruder13 I also noticed that on the first versions of the OMG V2/V2s you used U-Grooved idler bearings. Now they are flat. Did you also change it to reduce cost ? Was the U-Groove idler a better or worse idea for filament grip ?
Bonjour, je le recois normalement demain. Pour l'installation, avez vous dû inverser le sens du moteur ? L'installation se fait donc facilement en suivant la vidéo ? Merci de votre retour
I love the engineering with this extruder. But, there's always got to be one flaw that ruins the overall experience. The extruder doesn't deal well with removing the filament completely. If the end of the filament has bulged a tiny bit in the hot zone and you pull it back up through the bowden tube, you cannot easily pull it back through the extruder. It gets stuck because it's too fat to go through the centre drilled section of the extruder. You have to remove the bowden tube connection and cut the filament on the reel side and pull it out of the tube side to swap filament reels. This has happened to me twice so far.
You shouldn't tighten bondtech extruders all the way up, you should heat your hotend and run the extruder and then tighten the bolt until the filament doesn't slip. Big fan of the BMG extruders not sure about that clone but I've never had an issue with the cloned ones
I don't really see a need for this. Surely by now other manufacturers have tested having two gears pushing at different places and didn't find any advantages. Plus we have several well proven extruders on the market by now. Although I do appreciate the attempt at innovation instead of cloning, I think there are other areas that could benefit more from R&D, such as properly manufactured "universal" print heads like the Afterburner and EVA. I find it a bit irritating that I can get precisely machined and manufactured extruders and hotends, but the only way to install them is by 3D printing parts that will have much worse tolerances, rigidity and durability.
1st There is no way to change the meshing on the gears ? Which means it was to be build suuuper precise which means it will either not work properly or be expensive. It would be nice to be able to move the both gears closer or further away from the drive gear to compensate for tolerances. 2nd There are two springs for pretension, you could eliminate one of them by placing a center spring and a guide contour. 3rd It´s all metal, which means it will be heavy, at least create more cutouts and ligthen the whole thing. My conclusion is, I think a single gear extruder with at least 1:3 gear ratio which is smaller, lighter and with fever parts would be even better. Because you don´t need huge forces but you need precision and it should be cheap and easy to maintain. This extruder is already a step into the right direction since it decouples the gears meshing with eatch other and filament clamp force. You can never both with the traditional dual gear drives, those are pretty much flawed mechanically wise.
Thank you Igor. I am now thinking of buying the OMG V2-S extruder. I have a Ender 3 Pro but I have and Ender 3 V2 coming soon. I`m thinking of putting this onto my V2 when it arrives. Do you still think this is a good extruder or have you come across something better? Its been almost a year since you posted this video so not sure if their is something better out there. I wait for your response. Thank you.
Having a two pair of pulleys is great. But pity that OMG V2 don't have geared pulleys too (when we rotate one side, other is also rotated, not only by friction). Better? Not sure so far. New micro Swiss Bevel Gear looks great, but it is for direct drive.
Great video , never seen the OMG v2 extruder before, looks quality .. think its cool you used my FB post in your intro 😀 I went with a genuine BMG on mine after multiple fails and it's been great since ... I did buy the the Voron extruder kit too but happy with the BMG for now 👍 How has the OMG v2 been for you ?
I am very happy with OMG extruder. Voron M4 has 1:4 ratio, this means, for same retraction speed, the stepper has to move even faster, I has to reduce the retraction speed, otherwise the retraction was too loud.
Brilliant video. I have the same problem with the dual extruder on my SR like the thousands of others. I now have the OMG V2 with me. But, I'm unable to remove the gear from the stepper motor. Are there any ways to remove it without using brute force? I'm a disabled guy and I've got a few people try and loosen the gear but to no avail. Have you got any advise for me? Thanks
So, if you can't see the screw, then pulley is pressed to the shaft. You need some tool to pull it down. Maybe heat it up a little bit before. (tool like bearing puller or similar)
Could the e-steps part work for the stock extruder? mine is doing 92 mm when asked to do 100, under extruding by 8mm, so- 100 / 92 * 385 I am just worried about doing it this way and making it worse, but It should be the same no matter what type of extruder right?
Wish I saw this before spending a day building my own firmware with the extruder direction inverted. At least I have a much better understanding of Marlin firmware now and did not modify wires. BTW my esteps were 364 as I was overextruding 4.2mm with 385. I wonder if the orientation of the extruder is the deciding factor on over or underextruding based on our difference in e steps
brother pls can u help me with the code you have used i have used in two lines M92 E 363 M500 AND IT S OVEREXTRUDING A LITLE what code should i input ?
hi I saw your video it was very helpful thank you very much. I wanted to ask if you can raise the nozzle temperature by doing the same thing you did for the extruder speed?
Great video Igor! Can you tell us what is the exact csomag they sent to you? I think i would like to change that OEM extruder ( i hate it). If you would like to grab a drink in Budapest sometime, please let me know! Kozsi!
They sent me OMG V2-S Extruder D4 SET (without stepper motor), but you don't need this set. For FLSUN SR you need the cheapest one, you can use existing parts (link in desc.). This is what they sent: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002894864916.html Drink in Budapest? Why not, I am moving in 11. kerület.. Drop me an email or message on messinger.
Dear friend, another excellent video. I bought a FLSUN SR, and in the second piece, using PLA, the filament broke exactly inside that piece. I removed the spring and there was also dirt from the ground filament. Unfortunately, there was leftover broken filament below the spring, after the second hole and before entering the white tube. I can't remove it in any way and I don't know what else to do. Do you have any ideas or help? I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, made this so much easier, however I am looking for guidance. No matter what I seem to try the extruder still skips, I have taken it apart several times and cleaned it out, tightened and loosened the screws and tried several different filamants that I always had good results with, but it still skips. Any suggestions as to what to try next?
I'm new to this and havent had as much luck with installing my new omg extruder. i followed the instructions to the letter but have not been successful. help please. When i attempt to print, i cant get the filament to extrude, at least not in the right direction.
What retraction settings are you using please? I can't get mine NOT to string, I print at around 212c and just can't find the correct speed and length for retraction for my SR. Thanks
Try to dry the filament. But also you could check that your bowden tube is fixed good, and it don't move during retraction. (put some spot with marker near the fitting and see if it moves). My setting is 4mm, speed 30
@@MyTechFun yeah I've done all of that. It's crazy I moved from prusaslicer because no matter the retractions it was stringing. So tried cura, not as bad but I'm at like 8.3 retraction 45mms. Never seen it so high, I think it still needs to be a little more too.
Ive been using this extruder on a bowden mount with no problems and great results. But than... I installed direct drive.... omg.... I have no clue why, but it simply doesnt work nice. On the direct drive either the fillament gets stripped (low pressure), or the engine skips (hi pressure)... its been a nightmare so far and I cant find much solution. The engine is a japan aspina they sell with this extruder.
I just changed mine but I cant see the Estep file when I go to print. I saved it as .gcode like you said but still no luck. Any advice I would greatly apricate it. Thanks!
Great video. I am having a hard time finding the correct item for the FLSUN Speed Racer on Amazon. Any chance you can help point me in the right direct with a link? Thanks!!! My Speed Racer arrives today.
The link is in description and you don't need this version I got, but the cheapest one, because you don't need the hotend, motor and mounting part, you will use existing stepper.
This extruder is great for TPU but in direct drive version. Here the problem is in the long teflon tube. But I can print 98A TPU filament without a problem (but slowly without retraction). The 92A is too soft. Not sure about 95A.
Anyone has some values for this extruder on the SR with Klipper? It doesn't seem to work well on 1:3 ratio. (50:17 seems to work better, but I'd assume that might mess up some other stuff?)
Hi Igor, great video and a very nice extruder, I am however unable to get the feed rate to change, I ran the gcode as you indicated, I used several different settings but it move 60mm where it should be moving 100mm, nothing seems to change that, can you provide any suggestions ? Thanks
I don't know why that g-code is not working for you. Try to be sure, that it doesn't include any extra characters (sometimes due UTF-8 or similar charset, extra characters are added). Or just try Pronterface and send the command directly.
All metal isn't great on an extruder as it transfers heat into the filament. Steppers can get to 50c which for PLA ain't great. Having the primary gear made out of nylon acts as a heat break.
If you set the correct retracement of 10mm/s and a distance of 0.5mm or less, it will be as quiet as a baby-and the print result will be the same at the same time. Regarding gears, we have updated the old version of the small copper and large aluminum gears for powder metallurgy-heat treatment, which increases toughness and wear resistance. Because some customers feedback-the gear has been ground-after 1350 hours of continuous printing. If the result of using plastic or nylon gears-we really don't recommend it.
How do you write the file so the printer can see it? I write a text file and it won’t show up on the printer. I tried saving it as all file with no luck.
Hi Dr. Igor, I hope you still get this letter. I want this omg to really work. The fact of the matter is, I'm a great mechanic, well I was until all the electronics and ,math came into it. I had this thing on my Flsun Sr in 2mins. But I don't even know the workings enough to get the EEpro on my SD card without word and I don't have that anymore. So I can't figure out where the heck to be able to put that on the SD card. I got the 36 stepper motor so hopefully I wouldn't have to do a lot of math and they tell you flat out it's EEPRO 726 so I got that one. Can I just go into the gcode in cura and load it or do I really have to do it through the SD card. Thanks for the video. I'm a real disaster withe plastic extruders.
@@MyTechFun thank u for Reply I tried to.purchase extruder from your link it wont let sale go thru Could you give me the version of that omg extruder As their are a few thank you very much
I followed this and it worked perfectly! However after a few prints, the extruder is able to push the filament in until it reaches the hot end, where it is unable to move any further. Could this just be a clog in the hot end?
Everything heated up? If you unlock the extruder (press the arm) you can try to push with your hand. Just to be sure is it a clog or not. Never turn off the printer if nozzle temp is above 50C.
Mine is the same, it will print for a few minutes then just shred the filament, tried having the grub screws loose/tight. Nothing works, very frustrated at it now.
hello Igor, I have just upgraded my Flush SR with omg v2 extruder watched your video , installed perfect , Im trying to do the code change to 400mm /s but it won't read from the micros do yo have it on file you can send or I can load
would any SR owners who are currently only upgraded to a capricorn tube be willing to share your retractions settings at all? im still running with the original settings but i feel like i could with tuning it in a little with the updgraded tube thank you
@@MyTechFun thank you for replying and supplying your github page But sadly what is required just to do a simple estep calibration is much to complicated for me I dont even understand when you say "send this " send it where how I have octoprnt but I see no provisions Thank you anyway Believe I'll just return machine as it should not be that complicated to do .
Igor, thanks for the info. No matter what EStep number I use, I don't extrude the 100mm with ten steps. I have tried 400, 420, all the way to 450 and, even though I get different amounts (short), it will not take up 100. Any ideas? Thanks.
@@MyTechFun Hotend is hot enough ( tried a print and filament comes out but you can tell it's not enough). I believe they are tight enough. As a matter of fact when I pulled the filament to see if anything was wrong with the extruder I noticed the filament had "teeth" marks like if the screws were too tight. I tried extruding with them completely tight, just flush with the case (per instructions), and even with most of the screw showing, it made no obvious difference on the amount that came out of the extruder(!). However, I did hear it "missing" some steps so I opened it up and readjusted the four screws that tighten the gears, no difference in results. I tried using the 400 Estep again and it processed only 70mm, tried the 450 Estep and it processed less than 60mm. I will try extruding without the tube and report back.
@@rickmontanez6053 I have the same issue. My screws that push the springs in are not flush with metal housing. I had to loosen them...even still I notice filament "dust" everywhere, I wonder what's causing this issue.
Igor - Thank you for the fantastic video! I followed your video to upgrade my FLSun Super Racerand everything is working fine. Your eStep instructions were on point! SIDE NOTE: I did need to reverse polarity of the stepper motor for the extruder. A simple swap of the RED and BLUE wires within the stepper-motor connector did the trick. First print was perfect. Really appreciate your time and effort into producing this helpful video! :)
Interesting. I noticed when I installed my OMG yesterday that the filament orientation is not straight or aligned with the guide from the sensor. I was thinking about turning the extruded 180 degrees so the filament holes would line up better with the filament path from the sensor. If I do that, the motor would spin backwards (pressing filament in would actually move the filament out, and vice versa). Would your tip of swapping the stepper wires solve this issue? Thoughts?
how did you do it? I used the e step calibrations and it isn't printing.
@@TPA_JW if you’re comfortable flashing firmware, all you need to do is either remove or add an exclamation point from in front of the pin definition for the E axis motor (example PIN = !2.4 becomes PIN = 2.4)
If you had to swap the red and blue wire, you DID change the polarity of the stepper motor. This can be done with a adapter cable or just by swapping the + and - wires.
Thank you, Igor. Great video. Appreciate all the hard work you put in to your videos. The installation of my OMG V2-S went very smoothly. Like others, I had to swap the RED and BLUE wires in the JST connector which goes into the motor, to fix the reversal of IN and OUT directions. In my motor, the e-step value was 365. With 1.4 firmware installed, I was able to set this in the EEPROM page, directly on the touch screen.
This worked 1000%. Thank you so much for the walk through.
When I bought the printer I bought your suggested upgrade at the same time.
With the default bowden extruder, it chewed up any new filament. The same day I upgraded that extruder and it worked like a charm.
Thank youuu
With BMG clones you first compress the original spring to the max. It will lose some tension but at the same time the force left in the spring will be more stable. Leave it compressed for a few minutes, then unscrew completely. From now on use from 3 - 5 full turns. This has worked for both of my cheapest BMG clones. The idea behind this is the fresh spring has a lot of stiffness but that stiffness drops over time and you never know how much it dropped since last print (plus it's too stiff like in the video). When you compress it fully it will drop to it's stable level and from now on will hold it.
So basically you are saying that the spring needs to be permanently deformed to work. Why wouldn't you buy a proper bontech bmg?
@@TommiHonkonen No. It will still work without this procedure however you will need around 1 to max 2 turns and it may change with time. As to why not buy proper bondtech the answer is simple - price. Clone is $9, original is $100. Whole entry level printer is $175.
Excellent Video!! This gave me the courage to do it for my super racer and its perfect. My old extruder was garbage and it was nice to see the super racer print beautiful again! Thanks Brian
Thank you for this video, super helpful especially for the e-step adjustment on firmware v1.3.
I replaced the stock FLSun SR extruder after the bearings wore out. Mounted reverse to this and switched the polarity of the motor harness red/blue. Estep calibrated to 381.
Very nice video! Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together.
Awesome Video!! I just upgraded my FLSUN SR with this OMG v2 and it works great!! I did have to swap my stepper motors red and blue wires to change the polarity. Great video helped me out alot!!!
Hi Igor! I wanted to thank you for your great tutorial and explanations. I followed your video and my extruder problems are gone. Thanks so much!
Great to hear!
I got the OMG V2 for my Flsun SR, thanks to you. It works great with a Capricorn bowden tube, the SR is better than ever now.
By the way, the OMG V2 seems to work better when it's mounted the correct way on the SR (opposite to how you did it) - with the filament holes directly under the the SR filament sensor tube. Just reverse the polarity of the motor, and it goes the right way.
I've some Capricorn to install. Try as i might I just can't release the original bowden at the hot end.. erm.. end. Is it just a case of brute force?
@@toonfan2007 there is a collet you must lift it first
@@Fisheiyy I managed to get it free at last, just took more hands to work on it.
Are you talking about at 9:23 ?
can u print flexible filaments now?
Hi Igor, I just wanted to say that your video has got to be the best one out there! You did an amazing job documenting this for all of us to follow.
However I feel like I need to mention that you left out a very important detail regarding the pushpin. I followed this video to a T, but you forgot to mention that the pushpin needs to have the 2 spare bearings installed into it to properly put pressure on the filament. A very big detail missed out that a couple of people on reddit, including myself spent hours trying to figure out.
Other than that, amazing video! But please include this detail somewhere in your video description for others to pickup
I plan on getting one of these with a pancake motor using as a direct drive for my ender 3v2. Currently I’m using the same bmg clone extruder Igor had replaced and it’s not a bad extruder but he’s correct it just has too much tension and it’s sometimes very hard to get the filament through the last hole. Can’t wait to replace with this . Thanks for another amazing video Igor 👍
Just fitted the OMG V2-S extruder to FLSUN Super Racer and what a difference, great tip and well explained. Worked great after adjusting E-Steps thanks for the vid...
Hi, I was planning to buy a new extruder for my flsun sr. Is this one worth it? Thank you for your help
I just bought the OMG V2-S and this is very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for the video, just completed installing the OMG V2 extruder. Works great...
Just installed the omg on my my super racer. Thanks for the tutorial. Works excellent.
Thank you for this great vid! I did this mod asap on my SR & followed your guide upto the rotation of the omg v2s. But thanks to your commenters i caught it and flipped it around :)
My final calibration settings: 335.85 z, 400estep
Cheers to the commenter about rotating the V2S & reversing polarity on the stepper!
Lucy, thanks for buying and using our products
If you use direct drive
Recommended retracement setting: speed 10mm/s distance 0.5mm
@@my3domgv2-sfdmextruder13 Awesome thanks!
This clone extruder was a horrible choice for flsun I don’t understand why they did that. I had this bmg clone in my ender 3v2 and hated it. Kept chewing up the filament no matter how much I adjusted and kept slipping. After months of dealing with it I decided to purchase this omg v2. With the pancake stepper motor (for direct drive setup) Unfortunately I didn’t realize since I had a mosquito hic hotend it wasn’t going to work . So I returned it and went with the sprite pro . Anyway I will be purchasing the omg v2 again (without pancake) because it is so well built and in my opinion the best extruder on the market.
Great video by the way been watching your videos for a while now
I subscribed and liked
thanks for the video. i wished you had shown a nice before and after replacement print. So two claibration cubes with the same G code. Then we could have seen more of the difference.
Edge roller spool holders don't work with rolls with grooves on the edges. Also, if you use an edge roller you want to pull the filament up rather than down, because the latter will put a lot of the pressure onto the bearings instead of into turning it, especially at the end of the roll when the diameter is smaller.
Unsure whether you want this completely in metal. For a Bowden setup it won't matter that much, but for a direct-drive setup I think the gain in weight from ex. an SLS printed Orbiter with heigher gear ratio and hence much lighter stepper motor while retaining dual-drive, would be better suited than this block of metal. The idea is nice though. With some tweaks I think other designs might also add a second set of filament rollers, possibly then driving all four instead of just 2 as seen in this extruder and using a higher gear ratio and lighter stepper... I hope the designer of the Orbiter is listening ...
Sorry for the late reply. The MY3D team discussed your feedback.
The structure of 1/4 drive can be realized, but the structure will be more responsible, and the corresponding weight and cost will increase.
2/ We have also considered using a plastic case. Due to temperature creep and other reasons, the weight of 64g is about the same as that of plastic. The new PRO is being tested. The weight will be reduced and the spring pressure can be adjusted.
Thank you very much for your feedback. MY3D TEAM.
At the same time, we are very grateful to Dr. Igor Gaspar for free testing of our products.
@@my3domgv2-sfdmextruder13 PRO sounds good. Any idea when its coming out? Dual -drive designs have their own issues, this is probably a better design.
3:20 Nobody's gonna be holding a straw with two hands for no spillage xd
Hmm, I will probably try this one out for my Ender 3 V2. Thank you for video.
Love it !!!
Must have for my QQS-Pro
Thanks a lot for video Man .
I like their design of pushing the filament at two different places. What I dont understand though is why they went for drive gears + bearings instead of Bondtech style dual drive gears. My guess is to keep the extruder more compact but thats only an idea.
Less weight -> more heat
We tried to change the 4 driver, but the cost is too high. For the current FDM 3D printer, the real 2 driver-which can improve the print quality at the same time-does not need to pay too high a cost.
@@my3domgv2-sfdmextruder13 I also noticed that on the first versions of the OMG V2/V2s you used U-Grooved idler bearings. Now they are flat. Did you also change it to reduce cost ? Was the U-Groove idler a better or worse idea for filament grip ?
Super extruder que j'ai installé grace à ta vidéo et depuis impression top, merci 👍
Bonjour, je le recois normalement demain. Pour l'installation, avez vous dû inverser le sens du moteur ? L'installation se fait donc facilement en suivant la vidéo ? Merci de votre retour
@@willygute bonsoir,
Oui j'ai inversè les fils pour la part 👍
Oui aucun soucis particulier c'est assez simple
this extruder capable to use as ender 3 lightweight direct drive with mini pancake stepper!!!
Thank you very much man! I will swap it soon
Very intiutive video, thank you.
I love the engineering with this extruder. But, there's always got to be one flaw that ruins the overall experience. The extruder doesn't deal well with removing the filament completely. If the end of the filament has bulged a tiny bit in the hot zone and you pull it back up through the bowden tube, you cannot easily pull it back through the extruder. It gets stuck because it's too fat to go through the centre drilled section of the extruder. You have to remove the bowden tube connection and cut the filament on the reel side and pull it out of the tube side to swap filament reels. This has happened to me twice so far.
there's actually a U-shaped spacer .stl somewhere for adjusting the right tension for the stock extruder
Very good pragmatique vidéo as usual. Thanks you.
You shouldn't tighten bondtech extruders all the way up, you should heat your hotend and run the extruder and then tighten the bolt until the filament doesn't slip. Big fan of the BMG extruders not sure about that clone but I've never had an issue with the cloned ones
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing :-)
This looks like a winner I wonder how it would work on my Sidewinder X1
Merci pour cette belle vidéo👍
I don't really see a need for this. Surely by now other manufacturers have tested having two gears pushing at different places and didn't find any advantages. Plus we have several well proven extruders on the market by now. Although I do appreciate the attempt at innovation instead of cloning, I think there are other areas that could benefit more from R&D, such as properly manufactured "universal" print heads like the Afterburner and EVA. I find it a bit irritating that I can get precisely machined and manufactured extruders and hotends, but the only way to install them is by 3D printing parts that will have much worse tolerances, rigidity and durability.
Hi,is it worth to install this on ender 3 v2,but not direct drive???
Super video.. grazie 1000!!!
1st There is no way to change the meshing on the gears ? Which means it was to be build suuuper precise which means it will either not work properly or be expensive.
It would be nice to be able to move the both gears closer or further away from the drive gear to compensate for tolerances.
2nd There are two springs for pretension, you could eliminate one of them by placing a center spring and a guide contour.
3rd It´s all metal, which means it will be heavy, at least create more cutouts and ligthen the whole thing.
My conclusion is, I think a single gear extruder with at least 1:3 gear ratio which is smaller, lighter and with fever parts would be even better. Because you don´t need huge forces but you need precision and it should be cheap and easy to maintain.
This extruder is already a step into the right direction since it decouples the gears meshing with eatch other and filament clamp force. You can never both with the traditional dual gear drives, those are pretty much flawed mechanically wise.
I just purchased this extruder for this printer, do you believe it is safe to say that the E Steps should be set to 400
You can start with 400 and measure it. Correct if necessary. But it should be around 400.
Thank you Igor. I am now thinking of buying the OMG V2-S extruder. I have a Ender 3 Pro but I have and Ender 3 V2 coming soon. I`m thinking of putting this onto my V2 when it arrives. Do you still think this is a good extruder or have you come across something better? Its been almost a year since you posted this video so not sure if their is something better out there. I wait for your response. Thank you.
Having a two pair of pulleys is great. But pity that OMG V2 don't have geared pulleys too (when we rotate one side, other is also rotated, not only by friction). Better? Not sure so far. New micro Swiss Bevel Gear looks great, but it is for direct drive.
Great video , never seen the OMG v2 extruder before, looks quality .. think its cool you used my FB post in your intro 😀 I went with a genuine BMG on mine after multiple fails and it's been great since ... I did buy the the Voron extruder kit too but happy with the BMG for now 👍 How has the OMG v2 been for you ?
I am very happy with OMG extruder. Voron M4 has 1:4 ratio, this means, for same retraction speed, the stepper has to move even faster, I has to reduce the retraction speed, otherwise the retraction was too loud.
Brilliant video. I have the same problem with the dual extruder on my SR like the thousands of others. I now have the OMG V2 with me. But, I'm unable to remove the gear from the stepper motor. Are there any ways to remove it without using brute force? I'm a disabled guy and I've got a few people try and loosen the gear but to no avail. Have you got any advise for me? Thanks
So, if you can't see the screw, then pulley is pressed to the shaft. You need some tool to pull it down. Maybe heat it up a little bit before. (tool like bearing puller or similar)
@@MyTechFun Thanks for the tip. Please can you point me in the right direction on which bearing puller I need to consider.
How does the OMG V2 compare to the Bondtech LGX.
I don't have experience with original Bondtech LGX so far. But I am very happy with this OMG so far
Could the e-steps part work for the stock extruder? mine is doing 92 mm when asked to do 100, under extruding by 8mm, so- 100 / 92 * 385 I am just worried about doing it this way and making it worse, but It should be the same no matter what type of extruder right?
Yes, method works with stock extruder too.
@@MyTechFun Thank you! So it is 385 for stock stepper motor?
Wish I saw this before spending a day building my own firmware with the extruder direction inverted. At least I have a much better understanding of Marlin firmware now and did not modify wires. BTW my esteps were 364 as I was overextruding 4.2mm with 385. I wonder if the orientation of the extruder is the deciding factor on over or underextruding based on our difference in e steps
brother pls can u help me with the code you have used i have used in two lines M92 E 363 M500 AND IT S OVEREXTRUDING A LITLE what code should i input ?
hi I saw your video it was very helpful thank you very much. I wanted to ask if you can raise the nozzle temperature by doing the same thing you did for the extruder speed?
Great video Igor! Can you tell us what is the exact csomag they sent to you? I think i would like to change that OEM extruder ( i hate it). If you would like to grab a drink in Budapest sometime, please let me know! Kozsi!
They sent me OMG V2-S Extruder D4 SET (without stepper motor), but you don't need this set. For FLSUN SR you need the cheapest one, you can use existing parts (link in desc.). This is what they sent: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002894864916.html Drink in Budapest? Why not, I am moving in 11. kerület.. Drop me an email or message on messinger.
@@MyTechFun szuper! Köszönöm!
Hello, I'm trying to understand where exactly do you change the E-step? like do you need specific software or where is that change made.
It's just a text file (.gcode extension), copy it to sd card and "print it". It will run the commands on it and change the e-step
Dear friend, another excellent video. I bought a FLSUN SR, and in the second piece, using PLA, the filament broke exactly inside that piece. I removed the spring and there was also dirt from the ground filament. Unfortunately, there was leftover broken filament below the spring, after the second hole and before entering the white tube. I can't remove it in any way and I don't know what else to do. Do you have any ideas or help? I really appreciate it.
In klipper with Speedeerpad what configuration you add? 720.. or 400 in E_steps? Actually in my klipper is 700 is correct?
my problem with the fl sun SR extruder is the noise. its the loudest piece on the whole printer!
I significantly reduce the noise when slow down the retraction speed (from 60 to 40)
Mine used to, until I flashed the firmware to 1.3. Now its much quieter.
Noise usually comes from retracements
You can try to modify the speed and distance of the retracement
do you forsee any problems with putting this extruder on a QQ-S pro?
If you use existing stepper motor, why not. Probably you have to set again the e-steps.
Thanks for the video, made this so much easier, however I am looking for guidance. No matter what I seem to try the extruder still skips, I have taken it apart several times and cleaned it out, tightened and loosened the screws and tried several different filamants that I always had good results with, but it still skips. Any suggestions as to what to try next?
I'm new to this and havent had as much luck with installing my new omg extruder. i followed the instructions to the letter but have not been successful. help please. When i attempt to print, i cant get the filament to extrude, at least not in the right direction.
How is this still working? I have a QQS pro and constantly have extruder issues
Mine still works perfectly and I am using it regullary.
What retraction settings are you using please? I can't get mine NOT to string, I print at around 212c and just can't find the correct speed and length for retraction for my SR. Thanks
Try to dry the filament. But also you could check that your bowden tube is fixed good, and it don't move during retraction. (put some spot with marker near the fitting and see if it moves). My setting is 4mm, speed 30
@@MyTechFun yeah I've done all of that. It's crazy I moved from prusaslicer because no matter the retractions it was stringing. So tried cura, not as bad but I'm at like 8.3 retraction 45mms. Never seen it so high, I think it still needs to be a little more too.
tried using the text with gcode rename and it did nothing to change the printer estep.
The name of gcode file is not important, only the content of the text file.
谢谢！
Thank you!
It's same gear ratio as stock
They have a DDE version on the link provided.
Ive been using this extruder on a bowden mount with no problems and great results. But than... I installed direct drive.... omg.... I have no clue why, but it simply doesnt work nice. On the direct drive either the fillament gets stripped (low pressure), or the engine skips (hi pressure)... its been a nightmare so far and I cant find much solution. The engine is a japan aspina they sell with this extruder.
I just changed mine but I cant see the Estep file when I go to print. I saved it as .gcode like you said but still no luck. Any advice I would greatly apricate it. Thanks!
Great video. I am having a hard time finding the correct item for the FLSUN Speed Racer on Amazon. Any chance you can help point me in the right direct with a link? Thanks!!! My Speed Racer arrives today.
The link is in description and you don't need this version I got, but the cheapest one, because you don't need the hotend, motor and mounting part, you will use existing stepper.
can you tell me if someone has been able to verify if it works with TPU wire?
Thank you
This extruder is great for TPU but in direct drive version. Here the problem is in the long teflon tube. But I can print 98A TPU filament without a problem (but slowly without retraction). The 92A is too soft. Not sure about 95A.
Anyone has some values for this extruder on the SR with Klipper? It doesn't seem to work well on 1:3 ratio. (50:17 seems to work better, but I'd assume that might mess up some other stuff?)
I recently followed your video to the t. And now my printer is doing this. Could you please give me some advice on how to fix it?
Hi Igor, great video and a very nice extruder, I am however unable to get the feed rate to change, I ran the gcode as you indicated, I used several different settings but it move 60mm where it should be moving 100mm, nothing seems to change that, can you provide any suggestions ? Thanks
I don't know why that g-code is not working for you. Try to be sure, that it doesn't include any extra characters (sometimes due UTF-8 or similar charset, extra characters are added). Or just try Pronterface and send the command directly.
@@MyTechFun can u help with the code format ?pls
@@MyTechFun M92 E363
M500i used this one and after leveling and adjusting from 0 i get overextrusion
@@MyTechFun M92 E363
M500i used this one and after leveling and adjusting from 0 i get overextrusion
is it normal that the motor of extrusor gets very hot?
Depend what is very hot. Up to 50°C is acceptable but it will not damage on higher temps too
All metal isn't great on an extruder as it transfers heat into the filament. Steppers can get to 50c which for PLA ain't great. Having the primary gear made out of nylon acts as a heat break.
Hm, I didn't think of that. If I'll notice a problem, I will add a thin teflon or ABS spacer between extruder and holding plate.
If you set the correct retracement of 10mm/s and a distance of 0.5mm or less, it will be as quiet as a baby-and the print result will be the same at the same time.
Regarding gears, we have updated the old version of the small copper and large aluminum gears for powder metallurgy-heat treatment, which increases toughness and wear resistance. Because some customers feedback-the gear has been ground-after 1350 hours of continuous printing. If the result of using plastic or nylon gears-we really don't recommend it.
How do you write the file so the printer can see it? I write a text file and it won’t show up on the printer. I tried saving it as all file with no luck.
This is for a FLSUN supper racer
Hi Dr. Igor, I hope you still get this letter. I want this omg to really work. The fact of the matter is, I'm a great mechanic, well I was until all the electronics and ,math came into it. I had this thing on my Flsun Sr in 2mins. But I don't even know the workings enough to get the EEpro on my SD card without word and I don't have that anymore. So I can't figure out where the heck to be able to put that on the SD card. I got the 36 stepper motor so hopefully I wouldn't have to do a lot of math and they tell you flat out it's EEPRO 726 so I got that one. Can I just go into the gcode in cura and load it or do I really have to do it through the SD card. Thanks for the video. I'm a real disaster withe plastic extruders.
Hey whats the orgianl value? if i want to go back?
First off good morning About the SR did u experience a layer lag printing parts I've been told theirs a gcode fix Thank u
I don't have any problems since I installed this extruder
@@MyTechFun thank u for Reply I tried to.purchase extruder from your link it wont let sale go thru Could you give me the version of that omg extruder As their are a few thank you very much
@@charlesrestivo870 You don't need the V2 as I used, because, you need only the extruder itself and you don't need hotend, motor etc.
@@MyTechFun thank you have a great day and your replys
What value you recommended for klipper?
Just come back to this because using the maths 100 / 96 * 385 how do you get 400, I get 369, what am I missing ?
I followed this and it worked perfectly! However after a few prints, the extruder is able to push the filament in until it reaches the hot end, where it is unable to move any further. Could this just be a clog in the hot end?
Everything heated up? If you unlock the extruder (press the arm) you can try to push with your hand. Just to be sure is it a clog or not. Never turn off the printer if nozzle temp is above 50C.
Mine is the same, it will print for a few minutes then just shred the filament, tried having the grub screws loose/tight. Nothing works, very frustrated at it now.
is it possible to print TPU with this extruder?
Yes, but direct drive is recommended (where hotend is mounted to this extruder). This is currently used as a bowden extruder.
hello Igor, I have just upgraded my Flush SR with omg v2 extruder watched your video , installed perfect , Im trying to do the code change to 400mm /s but it won't read from the micros do yo have it on file you can send or I can load
Bottom of this page: www.mytechfun.com/video/148
would any SR owners who are currently only upgraded to a capricorn tube be willing to share your retractions settings at all? im still running with the original settings but i feel like i could with tuning it in a little with the updgraded tube
thank you
Did you figure it out? I can't find the correct settings, stringing always.
@@tjCooper88 i ended up convering to direct drive using an sherpa mini, works awesome by the way.
Why arevbbu measuring out 120 and not 100
If e-steps are bigger, the line will not be visible if 100 mm is the mark distance (it will go into extruder)
@@MyTechFun thank you for replying and supplying your github page But sadly what is required just to do a simple estep calibration is much to complicated for me I dont even understand when you say "send this " send it where how I have octoprnt but I see no provisions Thank you anyway Believe I'll just return machine as it should not be that complicated to do .
Hello Igor, can you tell me how heavy the v2-s extruder is?
Net weight: 64g
How do you remove the gear
I thought I did everything the video said to do, but mine does not extrude in either direction at all. What did I do wrong?
He doesn’t show it in the video but make sure you put the small bearings on the piece the springs go into.
@@Dawgtown223 yea, I managed to figure it out, but that drove me nuts for two weeks 🤣
@@Skully8998 maybe this comment will save people from having our frustration. 😂
@@Dawgtown223 I can only hope 🤣
Igor, thanks for the info. No matter what EStep number I use, I don't extrude the 100mm with ten steps. I have tried 400, 420, all the way to 450 and, even though I get different amounts (short), it will not take up 100. Any ideas? Thanks.
Is hotend hot enough? Maybe you could try extruding without bowden tube (for testing). Are two set screws tight enough? (Pressure on filament)
@@MyTechFun Hotend is hot enough ( tried a print and filament comes out but you can tell it's not enough). I believe they are tight enough. As a matter of fact when I pulled the filament to see if anything was wrong with the extruder I noticed the filament had "teeth" marks like if the screws were too tight. I tried extruding with them completely tight, just flush with the case (per instructions), and even with most of the screw showing, it made no obvious difference on the amount that came out of the extruder(!). However, I did hear it "missing" some steps so I opened it up and readjusted the four screws that tighten the gears, no difference in results.
I tried using the 400 Estep again and it processed only 70mm, tried the 450 Estep and it processed less than 60mm.
I will try extruding without the tube and report back.
@@rickmontanez6053 Hi, im wondering if you ever solved this issue?
@@rickmontanez6053 I have the same issue. My screws that push the springs in are not flush with metal housing. I had to loosen them...even still I notice filament "dust" everywhere, I wonder what's causing this issue.
i had the same issue, in my case the screws pushing the springs were not tight enough
Ok. I posted a question but it was deleted . Wonder why?
I didn't deleted it. What was your question?
@@MyTechFun hi, i think youtube deleted the post. The question was, should i buy the F1 version of the extruder? I bought the FLSun SR.
Yes, F1, you don't need other parts for SR
@@MyTechFun thanks
THANK YOU