Norotos Lo-Sto Push Button NVG Helmet Mount USMC Configuration
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- čas přidán 6. 05. 2023
- Overview of the Norotos Lo-Sto USMC configuration helmet mount push button version. The USMC configuration does not have a magnet since it is meant for use with the SBNVG which does not need it. The socket with magnet is intended for use with devices such as the PVS-14 with magnetic based auto-off features. This mount is available with the dovetail socket and bayonet horn sockets can be purchased separately and are easy to swap.
*I should note that in this mount is only compatible with the original RNVG housing when using the dovetail riser*
Available at: tnvc.com/shop/norotos-losto-u...
I should add regarding the Lo-Sto not being compatible with the original RNVG. There is a dovetail extension for the RNVG fixed bridge goggle. If using the extension the Lo-Sto will work but it will not without the extension. The extension is available here tnvc.com/shop/ab-night-vision-rnvg-dovetail-extension/
Underrated mount. Lo-Sto is so slept on.
Glad you added the side note that these won't work for the RNVG. Speaking of, when are we gonna see you cover the RNVG-VG?
Aiming for within the next 30 days
Picked one up today from TNVC. Finally completed my night set up. Thanks for the help on phone today 👍
Thank you sir anytime feel free to holler 🤙🏼
I really enjoyed this excuse to subtly flex the ARNVG
These mounts sure have come a long way since the Gen1 rhinos!
Yeah they have
Solid video. I may end up buying a set to try them out. Head to head them with the g24's
🤙🏼
Great content as always. Thank you for the thorough review. I’ve been interested in these but alway stuck with the g24. Might pick one of these up for my next dovetail mount.
The Lo-sto is vastly superior to the G24. However if you do pick one up, I would suggest getting the force to overcome model, not the push button.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kj thank you for the feedback. Why force to overcome over push button?
@@Mogas0311 Only because it is faster. With a push button you have to cant your wrist to get your thumb in the right position to hit the button. This is why if you watch people manipulate their push button mounts it's kind of like an awkward fumble because you have to change hand position after pushing the button. With FTO you grab any part of your setup and just push or pull it in the direction you want. The primary reason push buttons were made was because the legacy setup was a bayonet mounted J-arm which has a paddle release in the front. What would happen was people accidentally pressing that lever when pulling the PVS7 down causing it to detach. In truth it wasn't really a common issue, but the concern is already completely eliminated with the Wilcox dovetail mounting system. Another concern is that FTO causes an audible click as the ball detent snaps into position, however practically speaking walking makes more noise. It is louder to the wearer than the adversary. If you ever had a flip to side optic magnifier, it's a lot like that.
For most people they lower their NVD and don't lift it until they are done so fast manipulation isn't much of an issue. However, if you are using NVD in a variable lighting condition (such as going from daylight to an unlit building or tunnel, or in an industrial lot where some areas are fully lit and some are not) then you will be raising and lifting your NVD rapidly. You aren't pausing between different lighting conditions, you are manipulating your NVD on the move. As a personal example I used to work with a lot of militias and LE in fighting cartels, and in many of their dens once they realized they were compromised they would kill the lights and then shoot at you in the dark based on your last known location or your muzzle flash. You cannot just shoot blindly at them like they do to you because it's a target indicator and while most are illegals, some of the people in the dens often aren't part of the cartels but trafficked victims (slaves). So as soon as you hit the floor you need your NVD up on the dot. In a team environment you generally keep half with NVD and half with them lifted as a counter to this kind of situation. While with autogated tubes there isn't an issue of looking through your NVD in an artificially lit environment, you still get a FOV penalty (even with quads as quads still can't see verticals as quickly such as an adversary on a scaffolding or at the top of a stairwell) and so it is much more practical to look with the naked eye in those situations than through your NVD.
Articulating bridges originally came to be because of this issue. You could rotate one pod up like a monocular so you get NVD and naked eye visibility simultaneously, or do the Italian and splay both pods quickly with one hand. The issue with relying on bridge rather than mount is that your interpupilary distance is messed up so it takes longer to align the tubes back to your eyes. IP stops were integrated onto bridges to solve this issue, but there are many bridges that don't have it, such as the panobridge which affects IP on two axis. For this reason articulation of the mount quickly is better.
EDIT: Other factors too is that you can do it one handed or with either hands, which is a big concern in the real world. On the range everyone shoots as they are most comfortable, but in an actual fight cover is your lifeline and you don't get to pick what side cover you end up behind, switching shoulders in close quarters is pretty much a necessity unless you want to catch rounds.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kj thank you for the thorough and very knowledgeable response. It is greatly appreciated!!
@@DaveSmith-cp5kjI can fight cartels without joining leo? This sounds AWESOME! prior service looking for purpose:) thxu very much!
Great video love the channel. You don't need to remove that screw to slide off the dovetail. Just pull up and turn it 90° it holds the pin up enough to slip past. same as the AKA2.
almost gave me an aneurism "NO NO PLEASE DONT THINK OF THE SPRING INSIDE!"
🤦
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION 🤣 the screw head broke off on my losto's release, but thankfully it still works fine! mount is from ~2017 iirc
I pinned the info
waiting for my PVS14 to be built by TNVC , picked up a TATM mount , don't see them to much compared to the other mounts .. seems good enough as the price was right
Right on. The TATM is a good mount. The only catch is that if you don’t have the matching Norotos shroud then you need an adapter.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION found (2) TATM mounts with (2) single hole shrouds lol only needed the one but got a spare set up plus I found a Universal adapter and shroud... so I am set
I feel like having a deja vu.
I had to add some additional text so I uploaded it again
I have the g24 and it works for me but i want the device closer to my eye so i ordered a lo-sto
Like the dump truck bracket and the rhino arm bracket, the distance between the night vision device and the eyes can be adjusted.
I have a Wilcox L4 ratchet shroud on an older MICH helmet. Will the LO-STO fit it?
It should fit the L4 shroud. Sometimes there can be weird fitment between the manufacturers but I haven’t heard of any with the LoSto
Just got my first PVS 14 tube from TNVC. I'm really happy with it except I have five spots with the largest right in zone 1. Is there anything I can do for that?
Give us a call tomorrow. Our tubes don’t allow for spots so that is likely peppering, which aren’t considered spots, and if you’re not happy with it we’ll get you another tube.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Roger that thanks
Or better yet, green phosphor going down in price. Personally I'm of the opinion white phosphor does not actually provide any advantage (yeah I've read the "advantages" but IRL I don't see any real difference other than placebo), so I always buy up the "outdated" gp from people. If we can drop the price of GP to that of PVS7s that would be awesome, lol (impossible of course, since the housing itself is already close to 1K). With the EU's Ukrainian war that's not likely though, the demand for night vision is keeping the price up and supply down.
Is their something you can do for your mount to make it more solid when using a bayonet attachment? Like is their a better product or some sort of hack to reduce the play in the mount? I'm stuck in bayonet purgatory
Are you talking play in the socket where it attaches to the mount or play inside the socket where the j-arm inserts?
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION where the J arm inserts
@@crunchyknees3622 there is some variability between different j-arms so your best options are to try a different j-arm or use a NERD to put tension on it. Where did your j-arm come from?
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION DOD. So I do dont have the option to do too much like switching to a dovetail. I have a norotos gen 2 FTO mount but their is a lot of play in it especially when I'm running
@@crunchyknees3622have you tried a different socket yet? If not, what I could do is special order one and have the guys at the warehouse test fit some arms to find a good match
Which mount are you currently using for your personal setup?
Wilcox G24
Wew for the same-ish price I vote G24 all day every day.
G24 is a great mount. Right now Wilcox is majorly behind in production so this is a good option if you need a mount and can’t find a G24.
The lo sto is better than the G24. For one, it's about 20% lighter, but as far as I can tell it is also significantly more durable.
Lo Sto is vastly superior. It has superior adjustment as well, the G24 is very limited especially with monocular like the 14.