Hi Brandon, I recently picked up the Neje A40640 and have been working on calibrating it for a few weeks - I'm a total n00b and really appreciate your videos! When digging a bit deeper into the reference documentation - I noticed that this module has a variable focal distance - the lens actually rotates. In the Neje wiki documentation I've found that they recommend setting it at a focal distance of about 33mm for engraving and about 55mm for cutting (18mm ply?!?). You have to unscrew the lens about 7 full rotations from it's fully 'closed' or seated position against the upper housing for engraving but it definitely produces a finer spot. My USB microscope doesn't have a measurement tool but from my very rough estimate, it looks like I can get a line width of around .12 when setup for the 'engraving' focal distance. I'm sure folks would appreciate your more seasoned look at it - especially as you call it out as having a bigger dot width, which may not be entirely accurate given the configuration options. I hope this observation comes across in the most positive light, I really appreciate all videos and your calibration methods - super helpful for someone new to the technology! Keep up the great work!!
Nice job of providing so much information in such a short period of time. This review really helped me with my purchasing decision without having to look up hours of reviews!
Informative video. One thing I want to add is that you should always be wearing laser goggles when The machine is on. This is true even if the laser is in low power mode. Even in low power mode I'm sure it could blind you instantly if you got a reflection just right. Given the price level of these things are built to it's also entirely possible for the laser to just go into high power mode on its own to do some sort of circuitry or programmatical failure. A good quality set of laser goggles is probably the most important thing you can buy when dealing with anything laser. Also make sure it is the right goggles for the wavelength of laser you are using.
When I did my review on the A40640 I didn't have access to a way to check the power, but last month I met someone who had an actual laser meter. My A40640 came in at 13.8W. Neje says it's 2, 7.4W diodes, the max power a diode laser can emit. It's pretty darn close to their claim. Definitely not 10W. My Ortur LU2-4 came in at 5.05.
That's good to know, I usually don't completely trust how they list the voltages but having a power meter is a great way to test it. I hopefully have one coming soon!
@@thebucketmouse I'm going to guess that it has, because my A40640 bought 8 months ago tested almost 13W on a pro meter. I had a viewer in CA tell me theirs that they bought last month tested at 9.4W. They probably using cheaper diodes now with the big demand.
Thanks a lot for your tests, i'm a interiorarchitecture student I had some expérience with lasercutting machines. I got really fascinated with my first experience and so I buyed myself a ortur laser master pro 2.
There are a couple ways to get a stable focus, either eyeballing it or drawing lines on an inclined plane (too much to go in to here--search CZcams). But once you find the height, measure it with calipers. Then make a block that height--in my case, I 3D printed a simple rectangular block, was able to get within 0.05mm of the desired height, I think. Then, if you want to etch, place your block on top of the etching surface, and let the laser module rest on the block while tightening. If you want to burn, set your block on the empty honeycomb (or whatever sacrificial surface), and let the module rest on the block while tightening--remove the block and insert your material to burn. This puts the focal length at the bottom of the material. Note, this only works for up to a few millimeters of material.
Blugh on the NEJE minus the dual laser beams. :) But, as always, your review videos are top-notch and I aspire to make mine as cool as yours! Esp. the lighting... you've got that down pat dude! This content creator would love to know your studio setups.
Thanks man! Probably the biggest thing for lighting is that I just turn all my real shop lights off...and then use video lights. I've got a a big key light a little right of my face and then a colored one on the other side.
Should look into the Longer3d Ray 5. It claims .08x.08mm dot size on a 5watt laser. The company claims they did 12mm pine board in one pass. It's got the full square frame at 400x400mm. From the little work I've done with it it seems plausible. It also comes with a spacer for setting the height so there isn't the guessing.
I have it with the max frame, it’s really good, but I have added air assist, as I found the lens quickly becomes coated with smoke, and the power drops right off. I use it to cut 3mm black acrylic, and it works really quite well,
@@54egg I use 125mm/sec single pass. Edge is not bad, it's clear it's laser cut, but it's pretty smooth. It will only cut black though, due to wavelength
Thanks! I assume that is 125 mm/minute? I have a home built CO2 40 watt and I cut 250 mm / min at about 1/2 power (20 watts) using vertical mount tube, single lens.
@@54egg AHh, yes, sorry 125mm/min. I'm used to 3d printing speeds. CO2 lasers are rated at their output, whereas Diode lasers are rated at their input, and the output is lower (IIRC its about 15W for the Neje 40W diode laser).
@@JamesElise160 Thanks! Even cutting at 125mm/min is fantastic. CO2 lasers are really not quite so portable. In my case using ball screw tables - not portable at all -- 200 lb machine.
Great video!! I’m very interested in getting one of these units but I’d like to see more about the IOS/Mac apps and how you transfer the programs to it. I’d love it if you could make another video showing that process.
Focusing it by eye and then measuring the line width really beats the purpose. You should do a proper focus test and then you can print a jig that size that you'll place on your material for each focus without hassle.
He did and I bought it thinking it was the best, but I can’t keep up. I haven’t opened yet so I’m curious to know if he recommends this over the sculpfun S9
Check the description I believe you have the number of the laser module wrong or the link is wrong it goes to the A40640 not the A40650 that you have it listed as
I highly doubt 6w blue laser can compare 90w CO2 version. Even the 40w CO2 can cut through plywood like hot knife on butter. Diode lasers will struggle. They can do it, but it's slow as hell and it'll reduce the life of your module.
@@WTF_BBQ I got this neje to cut through 12mm oak faced ply in 9 passes. It went down to 7 with air assist, but there were a few strands of wood still not cut. It'll do 3mm birch ply in one pass with power set to 90% with a feedrate of 10mm/s
@@adrianscarlett 1/8" Black acrylic for me. It took about 5 passes at 80%. I didn't want to push it hard cuz it'll shorten the life of the module which wasn't cheap.
I’ve seen quite a few suppliers of diode lasers make similar claims about equivalence to higher power CO2 lasers. I think that’s probably true for very specific conditions, but quite misleading in my opinion. The key thing to know is that different laser technologies often emit different wavelengths of light. This is important because different materials will absorb certain wavelengths more than others. Quick example: cutting clear acrylic. The blue-ish wavelength of a diode laser does a great job engraving metal, but for cutting clear acrylic it would mostly pass through unabsorbed. Conversely, the infrared wavelength emitted by a CO2 laser is readily aborsorbed by clear acrylic but heavily reflected by metal. It might also depend on what they mean by “power” if they have really good focus optics and their power density is very high they might be able to claim a higher power density than a typical 90W CO2 laser. TLDR; There are scenarios where a diode laser can outperform a more powerful CO2 laser depending on material choice because both laser technologies usually emit different wavelengths of light. Its technically true to say a diode is equivalent to a certain CO2 laser, but only if the material being lased is specified. Otherwise its marketing BS.
Hello, I have to make a choice, to buy a K40 Co2 laser or the Neje A40640 (10w optical power). I will use it for leather work, cutting and engraving. What is the best choice? Speed doesn't matter for me, but the quality of the cut and the lifetime of the machine. What is your advice? Thank you very much.
I am also cutting leather. And here is the thing. No matter how fast a CO2 if you have to cut your raw materials into small pieces. With my Neje, i have 460*800 cutting area, and even a bit more to place the material into the frame. Unless you are not planning for mass production, a diode laser with big area is the best choice imho.
With this construction... I really do wonder if the arm drops significantly enough with the laser at the far end. Have you done a test engraving with the laser focused sitting back against the main rail and then a straight burn to the far end of the arm? And then compare the engraved line at different points?
Great information mate, I would like your recommendation regarding the best laser machine that can work with lumber, metal and acrylic to enable me to make langstroth beehives. Your help and support in gaining the information regarding this subject is highly appreciated...
I was really interested I this laser because with the optical power and the tiny spot size it should be able to deliver 6000W/mm^2. But now I’m not so sure. Do you think smaller spot size could achieved by refocusing it? Or is that as good as it gets?! Thanks for a great video.
I have it as well and my spot is smaller out of the box. I never readjusted it. It's smaller than 0.1mm because I can alternate 0.1mm-wide lines at a 0.1mm step and they're fine (using that for PCB). At 0.075mm there's some strong overlap, and at 0.0875mm it slightly overlaps. The focus is adjusted at exactly 17mm below the aluminum block for me, and since I have an aluminum heatsink that's exactly this thickness, it's trivial to adjust :-)
10 Watt? hmm... My Snapmaker A350T already has a 10 watt laser included. Yes it is more expensive than this machine. But it can also 3D print and do CNC. Optional full encloser with HEPA filter is a nice option for the fumes. Just saying if you want a 10 watt laser this might be a cool alternative for you. Not affiliated with snapmaker btw.. but just saying.
"15 watt" laser? This is true. The laser manufacturers are taking the idea of running electronics at a lower power to lengthen their lives. GE used to do that with incandescent lifebulbs - they would manufacture the bulbs to run at 130v AC so that when we used them at normal household voltage (110-120) the bulbs would last a lot longer than typical bulbs. So NEJE is doing the same with their modules - building them with 15 watt, but driving them to produce 10.5 -11 watt output. So even if you run them at 100% for long projects, the laser will still continue to produce full power and have a decent lifespan. I have been reading how a few laser users are finding out that their lesser well-designed lasers would die soon after a project that required their lasers to run at 100% for an extended period of time. This is why NEJE, Atomstack and other laser manufacturers are doing this "underpowering" their laser modules to extend their lives. They use 7.5 watt laser diodes and only force them to deliver 5 Watts. The dual diodes are 7.5 diodes x2, each powered to produce about 5.5 Watts each to result in a 10-12 watt laser, depending on the manufacturer. These NEW modules are typically rated with 20, 000 hour life spans.
seems to me neje keeps making bigger lasers in the same small heat sink. how long will they last b4 they burn up, heat is the #1 destroyer of a diode laser i have already killed 2 of there 20 watters
Any recommendation for the largest print area for a beginner unit (under $750)? I think the Neje Plus 2S or the newer 3 Max (with or without the extension kit) is the LARGEST I can get in this price range? Any other recommendations? I need to cut 1/8" to 1/4" hardboard or plywood and the pieces won't fit on anything smaller than the 406x432mm of the Xtool D1. But I can fit 3 pieces on the 3 Max (or 6 w/ the extension). And the A40640 diode is pretty powerful.
Hi, first off all, thx for all your reviews. they have surely helped me out. second, I have been looking for a laser cutter (not so much engraver) and Neje has caught my eye. It appears that at the moment the 2S has been replaced by the 3Max but has the same laser equipment, or am I wrong? Also, just an idea on review: in the RC community there are a lot of people that build their own aircraft from scratch (Balsa and plywood 3mm) and need to cut the wood with precision. Which machine would you recommend or such a job? knowing that the CO2 lasers are deemed a bit too expensive and too small for that use. My idea was to look at the Neje 3 max as it has a nice big surface to work with but the question remains about how much power do you really need? is it the 5,5 or 6, 10 or even the 12W version. If possible I would like to get you take on this? Again thanks for all your reviews!!
Is there a way to contact you? I have a laser pecker that I got about a year ago and want to upgrade. Been looking at the Ortur pro SF but maybe this with the larger gantry and air assist is the way to go?
What keeps confusing me is the fact, that some suppliers rate it with 10W output power and some rate it with 15W output. Even the Neje online shop says its just 10W output power. Does somebody know whether the "10W" module is the same as the "15W" module? I'm about to buy the A40640 module but im a bit afraid to buy the wrong one. I just aim to buy the most powerful diode laser for under 500€, is there even a better choice than the A40640? Thanks in advance!
Hi. Are any of these diode lasers powerful enough to cut 3mm transparent/tinted acrylic sheet? The problem with acrylics is ofc that it does not absorbs much of the light, passing it through.
My question as well !!! There’s gotta be a way - maybe painting BOTH sides of the acrylic and then doing the cut? It’s really frustrating to NOT have a way of cutting out a simple shape of clear acrylic…. I’m going to give my idea a try tomorrow…
I’d be curious how this would compare with a k40. Obviously the enclosure and being about to use lightburn are big differences, but I’m trying to decide if I get a k40 or upgrade the module on my Ortur LM2
If you want to do more cutting, co2 is definitely better. If it's just engraving than you may choose either. I have a 100w co2 and a diode laser and they are both good at engraving, but the co2 is definitely the way to go for making cuts in any material. Also if you are cutting air assist is essential.
Hi, Would this Diode laser be powerful enough to mark carbon steel and Stainless steel(knives) Fiber is a little out of my price range. Thanks for the very informative vids.
@@joshuang1128 there's a guy on CZcams marking carbon and stainless knives with the 40W Neje...so yes, it's possible. czcams.com/video/aj5TDkEu6wQ/video.html
Colored plexi should be possible, but transparent - no way. Better is using CO2 laser for this. Someone already did a test czcams.com/video/O0n8p4uPFX8/video.html
Hello i dont know what is wrong i own one of this and i cant cut with the laser playwood in one pass (4mm) i try setup the focus several times and the best i can do is cutting the 4mm one in 3 passes with 100% power and speed of 100mm/m, do you have any idea what can be wrong ?
Said in video could download from link below but I must be overlooking it. Also, love your videos. They were the go to for me when looking to pick up a laser.
Hi. I'm unable to download your test burn files. I've attempted a few times and am not getting the email for them. I verified that it is not hitting my spam folder. Is this download not working?
I will never buy anything neje ever in my life. I bought an 30w laser from lasertree. The sales and support were out if this world. Neje can learn a thing or two from lasertree.
Also noticed it :) Doubting on how to update my aging Ortur LM2... Sculpfun S9? Neje? Gweike (which is on a different budget level of course)... Mainly doing engraving but recently started cutting some geometric animals from plywood as kids had "requests" and the OLM2 is just not fit for that task.
Been chatting with Gweike and their pass through is only 36cm width and a mere 5mm heigh. So this doesn’t win me as a customer. The width could be ok, even though full 50cm would be nicer, but the 5mm slot is just worthless.
The Comgrow Z1 is even worse. 4 thumbscrews and 2 U channels. I'm working on a better method. I took the red shield off of my Z1. It was getting crudded up w/ debris. For cutting thicker materials it also gets in the way because there's only a 2mm gap at optimal surface focus. I made a temporary enclosure out of cardboard and piped in a 170cfm (advertised flow) exhaust blower. It's not ideal or the safest enclosure material, but I never leave the laser unattended when in operation and have a small ABC extinguisher nearby. The blower is marginal for extracting the smoke, but that's likely due to the "enclosure" having an open front. Mine is good to etch at faster than 9000, but at those speeds I haven't tested the accuracy. For slate coasters, it will even produce a textured surface at medium speeds.
Their customer service is total garbage. I received one of these that was not working from day one. I have now tried for over 2 months to get a working unit from them. They insist I repair the laser. I informed them I'm not an electronics tech and asked to have a new, working unit shipped to me. They have refused and insisted I repair it after endless videos and photos had to be sent to them..
Such a mish mash of info delivered way to fast and so many jumpy edit cuts … sorry but this really was confusing as to what it was trying to achieve.Maybe as an absolute minimum try taking a few more breaths !!
Hi Brandon, I recently picked up the Neje A40640 and have been working on calibrating it for a few weeks - I'm a total n00b and really appreciate your videos!
When digging a bit deeper into the reference documentation - I noticed that this module has a variable focal distance - the lens actually rotates. In the Neje wiki documentation I've found that they recommend setting it at a focal distance of about 33mm for engraving and about 55mm for cutting (18mm ply?!?). You have to unscrew the lens about 7 full rotations from it's fully 'closed' or seated position against the upper housing for engraving but it definitely produces a finer spot.
My USB microscope doesn't have a measurement tool but from my very rough estimate, it looks like I can get a line width of around .12 when setup for the 'engraving' focal distance.
I'm sure folks would appreciate your more seasoned look at it - especially as you call it out as having a bigger dot width, which may not be entirely accurate given the configuration options.
I hope this observation comes across in the most positive light, I really appreciate all videos and your calibration methods - super helpful for someone new to the technology! Keep up the great work!!
Oh good call, I totally missed that. I'll have to remeasure it after adjusting the focal distance.
Nice job of providing so much information in such a short period of time. This review really helped me with my purchasing decision without having to look up hours of reviews!
Glad to help!
Informative video. One thing I want to add is that you should always be wearing laser goggles when The machine is on. This is true even if the laser is in low power mode. Even in low power mode I'm sure it could blind you instantly if you got a reflection just right. Given the price level of these things are built to it's also entirely possible for the laser to just go into high power mode on its own to do some sort of circuitry or programmatical failure.
A good quality set of laser goggles is probably the most important thing you can buy when dealing with anything laser. Also make sure it is the right goggles for the wavelength of laser you are using.
NEJE Store
When I did my review on the A40640 I didn't have access to a way to check the power, but last month I met someone who had an actual laser meter. My A40640 came in at 13.8W. Neje says it's 2, 7.4W diodes, the max power a diode laser can emit. It's pretty darn close to their claim. Definitely not 10W. My Ortur LU2-4 came in at 5.05.
That's good to know, I usually don't completely trust how they list the voltages but having a power meter is a great way to test it. I hopefully have one coming soon!
Where does Neje say it's 2 7.4W diodes? Seems they are only advertising it as being 10W output power now where they used to advertise it as 15W
@@thebucketmouse They are now, they didn't used to.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I wonder if the design changed (from 2 7.4w diodes to 2 5w) or if they only changed the advertising
@@thebucketmouse I'm going to guess that it has, because my A40640 bought 8 months ago tested almost 13W on a pro meter. I had a viewer in CA tell me theirs that they bought last month tested at 9.4W. They probably using cheaper diodes now with the big demand.
I always use mm/sec instead of minutes for my CNC machines. It's much easier to visualize that speed to me.
Thanks a lot for your tests, i'm a interiorarchitecture student I had some expérience with lasercutting machines. I got really fascinated with my first experience and so I buyed myself a ortur laser master pro 2.
There are a couple ways to get a stable focus, either eyeballing it or drawing lines on an inclined plane (too much to go in to here--search CZcams). But once you find the height, measure it with calipers. Then make a block that height--in my case, I 3D printed a simple rectangular block, was able to get within 0.05mm of the desired height, I think. Then, if you want to etch, place your block on top of the etching surface, and let the laser module rest on the block while tightening. If you want to burn, set your block on the empty honeycomb (or whatever sacrificial surface), and let the module rest on the block while tightening--remove the block and insert your material to burn. This puts the focal length at the bottom of the material. Note, this only works for up to a few millimeters of material.
I love the dual Diode Laser idea...next year we'll have 3, and so on... Wondering if Ortur makes a 2 Laser replacement for their Master 2 system...
Blugh on the NEJE minus the dual laser beams. :) But, as always, your review videos are top-notch and I aspire to make mine as cool as yours! Esp. the lighting... you've got that down pat dude! This content creator would love to know your studio setups.
Thanks man! Probably the biggest thing for lighting is that I just turn all my real shop lights off...and then use video lights. I've got a a big key light a little right of my face and then a colored one on the other side.
NEJE Store
Very helpful video . Did you had a chance to check out the Laser Tree 80w unit ?
I can't stop staring at the burn mark on the camera.
Should look into the Longer3d Ray 5. It claims .08x.08mm dot size on a 5watt laser. The company claims they did 12mm pine board in one pass. It's got the full square frame at 400x400mm. From the little work I've done with it it seems plausible. It also comes with a spacer for setting the height so there isn't the guessing.
I have it with the max frame, it’s really good, but I have added air assist, as I found the lens quickly becomes coated with smoke, and the power drops right off. I use it to cut 3mm black acrylic, and it works really quite well,
Cool. What kind of feed rate/ passes/power to cut 3mm black acrylic? How good is edge finish?
@@54egg I use 125mm/sec single pass. Edge is not bad, it's clear it's laser cut, but it's pretty smooth. It will only cut black though, due to wavelength
Thanks! I assume that is 125 mm/minute? I have a home built CO2 40 watt and I cut 250 mm / min at about 1/2 power (20 watts) using vertical mount tube, single lens.
@@54egg AHh, yes, sorry 125mm/min. I'm used to 3d printing speeds. CO2 lasers are rated at their output, whereas Diode lasers are rated at their input, and the output is lower (IIRC its about 15W for the Neje 40W diode laser).
@@JamesElise160 Thanks! Even cutting at 125mm/min is fantastic. CO2 lasers are really not quite so portable. In my case using ball screw tables - not portable at all -- 200 lb machine.
Great video!! I’m very interested in getting one of these units but I’d like to see more about the IOS/Mac apps and how you transfer the programs to it. I’d love it if you could make another video showing that process.
Focusing it by eye and then measuring the line width really beats the purpose.
You should do a proper focus test and then you can print a jig that size that you'll place on your material for each focus without hassle.
What software was that, that you used to measure your laser mark on the wood. That is really cool.
Great information, thank you very much
Awesome. Do you have a flat-bed scanner? That would be a great way to share the results of your test cuts.
Given the added power, have you tried cutting some white polystyrene?
I want to buy 1 laser machine which one willl u recommend ?? I have no idea on these machines so really need some assistance
have you tested the Sculpfun S9 Pro laser yet?
Would also like to see how this one compares.
He did and I bought it thinking it was the best, but I can’t keep up. I haven’t opened yet so I’m curious to know if he recommends this over the sculpfun S9
on the short 2s pls, u can use the included leg holders that keep it from wobbling!!
Is it weird that I want this but have no use for it?
Check the description I believe you have the number of the laser module wrong or the link is wrong it goes to the A40640 not the A40650 that you have it listed as
How about compared to the Sculpfun S9?
6W laser power but effect is 90W CO2 laser.
Like to hear your review regarding this.
My excate question been looking for a video that reviews them 2
I highly doubt 6w blue laser can compare 90w CO2 version. Even the 40w CO2 can cut through plywood like hot knife on butter. Diode lasers will struggle. They can do it, but it's slow as hell and it'll reduce the life of your module.
@@WTF_BBQ I got this neje to cut through 12mm oak faced ply in 9 passes. It went down to 7 with air assist, but there were a few strands of wood still not cut. It'll do 3mm birch ply in one pass with power set to 90% with a feedrate of 10mm/s
@@adrianscarlett
1/8" Black acrylic for me. It took about 5 passes at 80%. I didn't want to push it hard cuz it'll shorten the life of the module which wasn't cheap.
I’ve seen quite a few suppliers of diode lasers make similar claims about equivalence to higher power CO2 lasers. I think that’s probably true for very specific conditions, but quite misleading in my opinion. The key thing to know is that different laser technologies often emit different wavelengths of light. This is important because different materials will absorb certain wavelengths more than others. Quick example: cutting clear acrylic. The blue-ish wavelength of a diode laser does a great job engraving metal, but for cutting clear acrylic it would mostly pass through unabsorbed. Conversely, the infrared wavelength emitted by a CO2 laser is readily aborsorbed by clear acrylic but heavily reflected by metal. It might also depend on what they mean by “power” if they have really good focus optics and their power density is very high they might be able to claim a higher power density than a typical 90W CO2 laser.
TLDR; There are scenarios where a diode laser can outperform a more powerful CO2 laser depending on material choice because both laser technologies usually emit different wavelengths of light. Its technically true to say a diode is equivalent to a certain CO2 laser, but only if the material being lased is specified. Otherwise its marketing BS.
Judging by the measurements of the laser engravings DOES ATOMSTACK GIVES THE BEST DETAIL for REALLY SMALL DETAILS or SMALL LETTERS?
did use the same height for engraving and cutting?
Hello, I have to make a choice, to buy a K40 Co2 laser or the Neje A40640 (10w optical power). I will use it for leather work, cutting and engraving. What is the best choice? Speed doesn't matter for me, but the quality of the cut and the lifetime of the machine. What is your advice? Thank you very much.
I am also cutting leather. And here is the thing. No matter how fast a CO2 if you have to cut your raw materials into small pieces. With my Neje, i have 460*800 cutting area, and even a bit more to place the material into the frame. Unless you are not planning for mass production, a diode laser with big area is the best choice imho.
@@dekurvajo I got the atomstack x7 pro, and it is doing a fantastic job.
when the laser is just on, not engraving/cutting is that still capable of burning the skin and damaging your eyes?
With this construction... I really do wonder if the arm drops significantly enough with the laser at the far end.
Have you done a test engraving with the laser focused sitting back against the main rail and then a straight burn to the far end of the arm? And then compare the engraved line at different points?
I have one of these and it's not a problem it's a nice laser engraver
Can this machine cut intricate shapes from natural seashells, 0.30 mm thick?
Great information mate, I would like your recommendation regarding the best laser machine that can work with lumber, metal and acrylic to enable me to make langstroth beehives.
Your help and support in gaining the information regarding this subject is highly appreciated...
It must have...about 6 w... . It is nice to who want learn about lasers .
how does this diode laser compare to the Xtool D-1 ????
@Make or Break Shop What would be your recomandation for begginer, Neje A40640 or Aufero Laser 2?
I was really interested I this laser because with the optical power and the tiny spot size it should be able to deliver 6000W/mm^2.
But now I’m not so sure. Do you think smaller spot size could achieved by refocusing it? Or is that as good as it gets?!
Thanks for a great video.
I have it as well and my spot is smaller out of the box. I never readjusted it. It's smaller than 0.1mm because I can alternate 0.1mm-wide lines at a 0.1mm step and they're fine (using that for PCB). At 0.075mm there's some strong overlap, and at 0.0875mm it slightly overlaps. The focus is adjusted at exactly 17mm below the aluminum block for me, and since I have an aluminum heatsink that's exactly this thickness, it's trivial to adjust :-)
why you newer test cutting acrylic on those diode laser ?
Where did you get the honeycomb for underneath the material being cut?
Hey can you test how this laser perform on foam board? Diode lasers generally don't cut white foam board (flight test planes).
Ok, now I want to know what you can cut with it, and is there anyway one could cut clear acrylic with a diode laser?
why the cooling fan stopped when the laser finish the work?does the laser not stay hot?
I never received the sample file
10 Watt? hmm... My Snapmaker A350T already has a 10 watt laser included. Yes it is more expensive than this machine. But it can also 3D print and do CNC. Optional full encloser with HEPA filter is a nice option for the fumes. Just saying if you want a 10 watt laser this might be a cool alternative for you. Not affiliated with snapmaker btw.. but just saying.
4 times as expensive is not really a fair comparison....
If I get an MPCNC going I want to put a laser on it and this seems like the one to get
Is there a way to get the test file you show at 06:12 ? The one that show the results for multiple passes?
"15 watt" laser? This is true. The laser manufacturers are taking the idea of running electronics at a lower power to lengthen their lives. GE used to do that with incandescent lifebulbs - they would manufacture the bulbs to run at 130v AC so that when we used them at normal household voltage (110-120) the bulbs would last a lot longer than typical bulbs. So NEJE is doing the same with their modules - building them with 15 watt, but driving them to produce 10.5 -11 watt output. So even if you run them at 100% for long projects, the laser will still continue to produce full power and have a decent lifespan. I have been reading how a few laser users are finding out that their lesser well-designed lasers would die soon after a project that required their lasers to run at 100% for an extended period of time. This is why NEJE, Atomstack and other laser manufacturers are doing this "underpowering" their laser modules to extend their lives. They use 7.5 watt laser diodes and only force them to deliver 5 Watts. The dual diodes are 7.5 diodes x2, each powered to produce about 5.5 Watts each to result in a 10-12 watt laser, depending on the manufacturer. These NEW modules are typically rated with 20, 000 hour life spans.
Which laser do you recommend for metal engraving and maybe cutting on need for small pieces jewellery )
Is this powerful enough to directly ablate copper from a printed circuit board blank?
seems to me neje keeps making bigger lasers in the same small heat sink. how long will they last b4 they burn up, heat is the #1 destroyer of a diode laser i have already killed 2 of there 20 watters
Have you seen the sculpfun so or the it's pro? Can we get a review?
do you have any info on the sculpfun s9 laser engraver
Have you tested the Sculpfun?
Have you tested the Longer Ray 10 watt?
Wasn’t the xTool D1 achieving a 0.08mm x 0.08mm cut line?
Any recommendation for the largest print area for a beginner unit (under $750)? I think the Neje Plus 2S or the newer 3 Max (with or without the extension kit) is the LARGEST I can get in this price range? Any other recommendations? I need to cut 1/8" to 1/4" hardboard or plywood and the pieces won't fit on anything smaller than the 406x432mm of the Xtool D1. But I can fit 3 pieces on the 3 Max (or 6 w/ the extension). And the A40640 diode is pretty powerful.
@04:40 are those Presets in LB you can select from like a Dropdown Menu or are they DIY ones you have to create and edit yourself? 🤔
Will this (10W version) cut 3mm solid white and translucent white acrylic?
Hello how long did it takes to engrave that image you showed in your video? Thanks.
So if can just buy one Diode laser today would it be the Ortur master pro 2 SF or the Neje Master pro 2S?
Hi, first off all, thx for all your reviews. they have surely helped me out. second, I have been looking for a laser cutter (not so much engraver) and Neje has caught my eye. It appears that at the moment the 2S has been replaced by the 3Max but has the same laser equipment, or am I wrong? Also, just an idea on review: in the RC community there are a lot of people that build their own aircraft from scratch (Balsa and plywood 3mm) and need to cut the wood with precision. Which machine would you recommend or such a job? knowing that the CO2 lasers are deemed a bit too expensive and too small for that use. My idea was to look at the Neje 3 max as it has a nice big surface to work with but the question remains about how much power do you really need? is it the 5,5 or 6, 10 or even the 12W version. If possible I would like to get you take on this? Again thanks for all your reviews!!
Would air assist prevent the scorching?
I wonder what the actual life expectancy is? Would running this at no more than say 60 percent, and doing multiple passes extend the life?
Does your channel have a discount code for the NEJE site?
Is there a way to contact you? I have a laser pecker that I got about a year ago and want to upgrade. Been looking at the Ortur pro SF but maybe this with the larger gantry and air assist is the way to go?
What keeps confusing me is the fact, that some suppliers rate it with 10W output power and some rate it with 15W output. Even the Neje online shop says its just 10W output power. Does somebody know whether the "10W" module is the same as the "15W" module? I'm about to buy the A40640 module but im a bit afraid to buy the wrong one. I just aim to buy the most powerful diode laser for under 500€, is there even a better choice than the A40640?
Thanks in advance!
What is the distance from the laser module to the wood 3mm?
How do you think this compares to the Aufero 1 for cutting?
how long does this laser last? 10h , 20h ?
Hi. Are any of these diode lasers powerful enough to cut 3mm transparent/tinted acrylic sheet? The problem with acrylics is ofc that it does not absorbs much of the light, passing it through.
My question as well !!! There’s gotta be a way - maybe painting BOTH sides of the acrylic and then doing the cut? It’s really frustrating to NOT have a way of cutting out a simple shape of clear acrylic…. I’m going to give my idea a try tomorrow…
I’d be curious how this would compare with a k40. Obviously the enclosure and being about to use lightburn are big differences, but I’m trying to decide if I get a k40 or upgrade the module on my Ortur LM2
If you want to do more cutting, co2 is definitely better. If it's just engraving than you may choose either. I have a 100w co2 and a diode laser and they are both good at engraving, but the co2 is definitely the way to go for making cuts in any material. Also if you are cutting air assist is essential.
my question is can it go through a very thin sheet of glass and melt glue?
it will not cut the glass but it will melt the glue
does it engrave and cut pcb?
Hi, Would this Diode laser be powerful enough to mark carbon steel and Stainless steel(knives) Fiber is a little out of my price range. Thanks for the very informative vids.
Nope it will reflect right off, I've been toying with the idea of adding a thin layer of thermite across the surface and laser that in
@@joshuang1128 there's a guy on CZcams marking carbon and stainless knives with the 40W Neje...so yes, it's possible.
czcams.com/video/aj5TDkEu6wQ/video.html
Mine has more than 600hours at 100%, Still going strong......
Are you doing anything to exhaust fumes… Nevermind, you just said. 😂
I’m new to lasers and I’m looking for something that can handle 0.118 plexi/lexan/acrylic is that a possibility with this diode model?
Colored plexi should be possible, but transparent - no way. Better is using CO2 laser for this. Someone already did a test czcams.com/video/O0n8p4uPFX8/video.html
Hello i dont know what is wrong i own one of this and i cant cut with the laser playwood in one pass (4mm) i try setup the focus several times and the best i can do is cutting the 4mm one in 3 passes with 100% power and speed of 100mm/m, do you have any idea what can be wrong ?
try with air assist and lightburn
is it more powerful than sculpfun s9? 😳
Do you have the file for the engraving and cutting test available?
Said in video could download from link below but I must be overlooking it. Also, love your videos. They were the go to for me when looking to pick up a laser.
@@bsc7812 Expand the description
Yep check the description!
this or the atomstack 10w?
Hi. I'm unable to download your test burn files. I've attempted a few times and am not getting the email for them. I verified that it is not hitting my spam folder. Is this download not working?
Disregard. Weird though. It wouldn't go to my primary gmail account but it would go to my backup.
Ok but whats the deal...every body says you can't run it at 100% or it will burn out?
I will never buy anything neje ever in my life. I bought an 30w laser from lasertree. The sales and support were out if this world. Neje can learn a thing or two from lasertree.
I think the Sculpfun S9 is more powerful as the narrow beam has a higher energy density and cuts through 1cm black acrylic.
The S9 has a Laser Output Power of 5.5-6W (light energy)
Gweike Cloud in the background?
Also noticed it :)
Doubting on how to update my aging Ortur LM2... Sculpfun S9? Neje? Gweike (which is on a different budget level of course)...
Mainly doing engraving but recently started cutting some geometric animals from plywood as kids had "requests" and the OLM2 is just not fit for that task.
I also seen that, nothing for reviews! Only promotional videos…
Been chatting with Gweike and their pass through is only 36cm width and a mere 5mm heigh. So this doesn’t win me as a customer. The width could be ok, even though full 50cm would be nicer, but the 5mm slot is just worthless.
Thomas, Good to know. There website is very minimal and confusing.
Can you cut EVA foam?
I have one, it cuts Eva foam easily. I needed to use really low power settings to keep the line clean. Air assist makes a massive improvement.
@@adrianscarlett thanks for the info. I am looking to organize my drawers with EVA foam cut out inserts for tools and cameras.
The Comgrow Z1 is even worse. 4 thumbscrews and 2 U channels. I'm working on a better method.
I took the red shield off of my Z1. It was getting crudded up w/ debris. For cutting thicker materials it also gets in the way because there's only a 2mm gap at optimal surface focus.
I made a temporary enclosure out of cardboard and piped in a 170cfm (advertised flow) exhaust blower. It's not ideal or the safest enclosure material, but I never leave the laser unattended when in operation and have a small ABC extinguisher nearby. The blower is marginal for extracting the smoke, but that's likely due to the "enclosure" having an open front.
Mine is good to etch at faster than 9000, but at those speeds I haven't tested the accuracy. For slate coasters, it will even produce a textured surface at medium speeds.
Good to know!
Their customer service is total garbage. I received one of these that was not working from day one. I have now tried for over 2 months to get a working unit from them. They insist I repair the laser. I informed them I'm not an electronics tech and asked to have a new, working unit shipped to me. They have refused and insisted I repair it after endless videos and photos had to be sent to them..
Such a mish mash of info delivered way to fast and so many jumpy edit cuts … sorry but this really was confusing as to what it was trying to achieve.Maybe as an absolute minimum try taking a few more breaths !!
Get a laser power meter
You really need air assist.
I'd say it's pretty much useless to se a test with an expensive laser module without using a cheap air assist.
he wants your email address for the test file dont do it dude not cool put it on google drive or github etc dont assk for emaill addresses
speak more, faster and yell more. and add some "doots doots" loud soundtrack, flashing lighting a perhaps some shaky camera movements, too
Mr Laser Beast in 2023
"Weeding invitation paper". 😆And didn't anyone tell you it's dangerous to point a laser at people? You just damaged the eyesight of your viewers...
Ouch my eyes! Never point a laser at someone's eyes. Have you learned nothing?😜