No Faff At Anchors: Camp Swing Lanyard | Climbing Daily Ep.1426
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Get the Camp Swing: bit.ly/2HLwFGK
There are many ways to secure yourself to an anchor, but the Camp Swing takes all the faff out of it. With simple lengthening and shortening actions it will speed up your belaying process. We took it to Vallocine to test it on a stunning slab multi-pitch climb.
No Faff At Anchors: Camp Swing Lanyard | Climbing Daily Ep.1426 - Sport
Use a clove hitch instead. Saves a bit of weight (and money), same level of safety regarding dynamic cord, and it can be done and adjusted one handed.
I find it much quicker than any anchor as well.
The clove is great for MP, but doesn't help much for rappelling or cleaning single pitch routes.
This kind of thing looks like overkill for the average person, but would be fantastic for guides.
@@Ammoniummetavanadate It makes my wife feel safe and thus will go climbing with me.
And you can do it with one hand
@@Ammoniummetavanadate but for cleaning/rapping a route, do you really need a dynamic anchor, a sling or PAS should work fine
I once got the "Few cams could be usefull" on the topo, on a long multi-pitch, and ignored the warning. Turned out to be scarier than I thought. I made note for myself ... "Fews cams could be usefull" translates into. "Take cams unless you are confortable soloing at that grade" :)
You could use this...Or you could clove hitch on to a locking carabiner and save 23 pounds.
haha exactly my thought
Not to mention the extra weight
My thoughts too. 🤷♂️
i also do this most of the time but i do like the fact that i can also use it extend for rapel (connect dual so keep te long one in the achor and put the belay plate in the shorter one pull it in to fully test te rapel the commit by taking it out of the achor) + it is easy to clean single pitch climbs with.
and for beginner friends that just want to join me climbing for a day the landyard gives them a feeling of safety
Is this not identical to the Petzl Connect Adjust?
The attachment of the biner and adjustment section is slightly different but yeah it's fubctionaly identical
The separating factor of the Camp Swing is that you can lower yourself while weighted. While the Petzl Adjust can't lower at all while weighted. You have to unweight the Petzl device before you can give slack. Although this Camp device seemed like it was more difficult to take in and shorten it. He was pulling pretty hard =/
@@MattNicassio I have the Petzl adjust and I can lower myself when the tether is weighted no problem.
Petzl Connect adjust is much easier to shorten or extend I tried both
@@lalibertenordsud Oh okay, good to know. That was SUPPOSED to be the defining difference.
I already have the Petzl Adjust and it seems like it's smoother than the Camp Swing.
I have the Petzl Connect Adjust, which was super smooth at first, but after more use gets quite grabby. Especially when you try to extend it while it's not clipped in yet. I think this is because the rope gets a bit stiffer/thicker when used. I was hoping the Camp version would be smoother. Would be really useful to see how the two compare!
Its me or the metal thing on this pas is just a guide plate flipped upside down? Anyway, looks nice and will be cool to see a comparition between this one and the petzl adjust conect. Great video!
pretty much
🤔 It’s a copy of the Petzl connect...Isn’t it 🤔?
I think my petzl adjust works smoother than that thing. I can run it single hand.
Yeah, looked like it was kinda diff to pull tighter. The separating factor of the Camp Swing is that you can lower yourself while weighted. While the Petzl Adjust can't lower at all while weighted. You have to unweight the Petzl device before you can give slack.
A bunch of people are saying to just clove hitch. Which is true. That works great with that style of anchor. Two bolts with a hefty chain. bomber even if one where to fail for some reason.
I kinda see it like it's replacing a quad. When the anchors are just two bolts and no chain you need to connect to both of them somehow. Traditionally you place a pre rigged quad and clove hitch to that. But with this you can clove hitch to one bolt and connect the lanyard to the other. That means that you can sometimes skip carrying a quad.
So it's basically a grabbier Petzl "connect adjust"?
and the petzl version seems to be much more smoother!
Been using one of these for about a month now. Love it. So much easier to get into a comfortable position when dealing with an anchor to lower off. Only complaint is I find it a bit grabby when trying to let slack out. I find taking in fine. But it's getting better as I use it a bit and the cord gets more supple. Few others mentioning clove hitches. I use them for setting up full trad belays but this for sport. It's quicker and easier after you've got pumped on a route. Clip one carabiner. No knots to sort out after getting pumped on a route. Not everyone will want/need this. But those who do will likely love it :)
I'm happy another company has seen the value of adjustable lanyards. I own both a Petzl Dual Connect Adjust and the Kong Slyde. (I prefer my Connect Adjust, and love it). Look guys, not every climber will see value or have a need for this device. However for those that enjoy the dynamic factor of a lanyard, climb on overhang terrain like limestone, climb in blocks, find themselves on some less than ideal belay ledges, want to make their station more comfortable, rappel more often than lower, go canyoneering, etc... you will find value in such a device.
I'm well aware of cloving into the anchor is great and adjustable, but it's not applicable nor comfortable for every situation. For anchoring myself in, I've also used nylon and dyneena slings, multi-link PAS systems, heck, I even used daisy chains when that was a (ignorant) thing for a lot of climbers awhile back. I love and see full value for my circumstances to have and use an adjustable lanyard system.
What's wrong with using a daisy chain?
@@raphaelbeinhauer9242 If being used a a personal tether/lanyard to attach yourself to the anchor: They're meant for body weight only, and must be used in the correct configuration. See the following articles: www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl.html
rockandice.com/climbing-gear-tips/am-i-using-a-daisy-chain-wrong/?fbclid=IwAR2v-V2_m_v6OpJLbXeRjHlqQdRDQWw7bN__TD18vN1x056KvrizHd_ssr0
blog.alpineinstitute.com/2009/05/daisy-chain-conundrum.html?m=1
Probably useful tool for a second intermediate to beginner climber but has wider applications in terrain which is overhanging and difficult to follow where this device would save you time if you needed to jug up your rope past a crux section after coming off a too steep wall.
epictv has turned into one big paid advertisement
they do run a shop
I know right, can't believe they won't work for free
It is truly weird how a shop promotes the products they sell and make money from. I wonder why that would ever be the case.
I'll add this piece of kit to the collection of house bricks I carry on routes.
Quick question: Don’t you need two points of contact on the anchor for redundancy?
LOVE this channel!
You guys are helping keep me sane through my shoulder rehab.
Thank you!
Hi, The anchor in question was two bolts connected with a big chain. The Mallion centre point was new, and solid. On those anchors Matt decided it was safe enough with the set up in place. Hope that helps.
I clip one bolt with my petzl connect and then quickly clove hitch the climbing rope to the other bolt and equalise by adjusting the connect. Adds like two seconds but your equalised on two bolts.
@@callumray4601 I do that too, but with a purcell prussik tether (see comment above)
The new style anchor that experienced bolters build is really killer! You only have one clip in point, but it is backed up by a chain and another bolt 1-1.5' above. Great design, makes everything much faster and simpler. You don't need to build a masterpoint, it's already built for you, you just clip into the masterpoint and it's a double bolt redundant system. love it! I hope anyone who is developing at this point in time is aware of this and is practicing it! It DOES take the extra investment of a chain, but if you're going to develop, you plan on that fixed gear being there for decades right? It's worth doing it right. Any time I bolt at my local spot, we have soft sandstone. I always use the highest quality glue in bolts. If it is near the ocean I use tytanium! No fucking around, get it done right. I'll never add something permanent into rock unless I plan on it lasting 30+ years. Makes me sad when I see expansion bolts used in soft SoCal Sandstone!
Great piece of gear. Great video.
8:16 really should have showed how he was doing it. Johan was demonstrating how he pulls in slack with the Camp Swing. Was he lifting the arm on the device itself to reduce friction? Or was he pulling the other side of the rope up to allow for a smoother feed? I would imagine that lifting the device would help it to feed much more smoothly. And as long as it works single handed.... if you have to pull a little harder that isn't necessarily a deal breaker. You def want to feel safe over anything as Matt said..
Regarding weight:
Use a clove hitch, you only need a single carabiner and it can be done one handed.
Or you could even use an ATC instead of this device, same price, but you don't have to carry a sling
Great gear show
Great video , what route was that though ?? Looks cool 😎
I currently use the metolius PAS for attaching to an anchor. I like the apparent adjustability of this and that falling on it would not shock load the anchor or your body. However, I don't see how you can use this to set up a rappel. Where as, when using a chain style PAS or a dyneema cord (as you mentioned) setting up the rappel (per the AMGA recommended method) is straight forward.
How to save >1/4 lb off your rack: learn clove hitch and leave your Camp Swing at home.
This works going up, but for raps it helps to have a tether
@@somanayr Indeed, a tether is essential for rappel. A sling will work for that purpose.
@@rockclimbinghacks9222 It will, but an adjustable tether is marginally more convenient. I prefer a purcell prusik, but I used a sling before that. It's a personal preference thing. They're also very nice for cleaning sport anchors.
@@somanayr Purcell is classy. I like alpine draws for the top bolts, so i can use them as tethers.
Save even more and leave your harness at home !
To all the people who think the clove hitch is always better think also about the rappelling, you can't use the clove hitch there ...
I tend to use clove hitch ascending and then pull out a 120cm dyneema sling to descend (where the sling is always weighted with no slack). Seems to be a good method for trad as I try to avoid having a tether getting snagged by cams. When sport climbing I would use a PAS as I'm more likely to be at hanging belay anchors where you need to clip more quickly
@@revhead Yeah that works too, but for long rappells on steep ground where you need to adjust the length of the sling something like this might be very useful, and if you use it on the way down why not using it on the way up too
@@gregorgombac5302 I did a multi-pitch climb today and multi-pitch rappels also. The sling was perfect and I can re-use it for anchors when climbing. The main problems are a) a heavy rack so I need to reduce weight and b) I don't want anything that can catch on the ironstone/sandstone as I'm climbing (which is always a problem where I live). The device looks fine for sport climbing on steeper routes though.
Is it designed to be used independently. Or should you add a second pice of protection while belaying?
Getting the CAMP gear out for the first time in forever
Unrelated question, what do you think of the BD shoes?
I may not be Matt Groom, but I've got a pair of the Aspects and I love 'em! They lace super far down so you can have the toe box be exactly the size and shape you want, and they're the most comfortable pair of flat shoes I've ever worn. Highly recommend if you're climbing cracks a lot.
@@MatthiasMiles What about a comparison with the Sportiva Mythos? More comfortable is not really possible i think.
hi, what is the name of the route?
Hi Matt,
can you recommend a backpack, about 35 liters, 2 attachment for ice ax, good and solid attachment of ski, ... rope attachment, sturdy and under 1000g
Cheers!
I have the Deuter Gravity Expedition 40l expandable to 50l weights 940g and is quite comfortable with loads up to 17kg
Two icetool hoalders and cost only 130€
Ortovox Trad 35.
what helmet did you use?
7:19 so tell me what was bad about being secured to belay station with a sling? (or multiple slings sewed together?)
He is arguing that its safer to fall on rope then a sling due to much greater shock absorbtion in the rope then in a sling. While true i dont feel its a great point because you really should not be falling on either.
@@Sunny-gt8zi I totally agree with you. And since you shouldn't fall, I still believe it's okay to use knotted dynema slings.
@@timogiese316 To be 1000% clear. Its fine imo if you dont do things like approach a anchor from above with a sling on the anchor as your life line. If all you are doing is sitting on the sling in mp then your good. p.s. dont climb above an anchor you are clipped to with a sling or a connect adjust or a camp swing. :)
There are known cases of people slipping or stumbling off the anchor with 1 meter fall that breaks the dyneema sling and further fatal consequenses or heavy injuries so I would personally stick to the dynamic rope sling (or a clove hitch)
I just use a 5 or 6mm cord tied in on itself with a purcell prussik, so it is easily adjustable and very cheap. Like this: www.bluugnome.com/cyn_how-to/gear/purcell-prusik/PurcellPrusikTetehr.jpg
I've used static cord, which isn't ideal, but the looseness of the prussik would take some of the force of a shock load at least. However, maybe it is possible to buy some thin dynamic rope and use in this prussik setup, which wouldn't be too bulky?
I dont see the advantage to using the rope to secure yourself with a "Mastwurf" (don't know the English name)
Clove Hitch possibly?
Mastwurf = clove hitch, Halbmastwurf = munter hitch
@@kilianpotts3914 thanks for that. Thought it was a clove hitch but was unsure
I already own a petzel connect adjust....
we can use this for secure the rapel whit ATC?
Kong slyde 6€: same way
what slab is that?
Do you wish you had brought a few cams?? Haha
the camera man has used a daisy chain. and he has carried a camera, i wonder what is easier?
Maybe nice for gear junkies, seems like extra weight, snagging, no alternative uses. I'd still prefer using the simple clove hitch on main rope (and a sling while abbing off). Cheers for the review though
The comment I was looking for.
Or i could just learn how to clove hitch.
Same amount of effort as a couple of slings
dress your knot Matt
Kong
charlie is kinda a gumby
The sling might break?! No, look at the strength rating, your ribs will break first.
@Tammy Gueterman Dynamic lanyards are only marginally better. For instance, Petzl tells users of the Connect Adjust to "keep your belay anchor taut; stay below the anchor" and that "these lanyards must only be used when the potential fall factor is less than 1".
I am generally not a big fan of total rip offs...
But competition forces companies to improve their products, so in the end we as the costumers benefit.
Still I don't like the idea of rip offs
2:07 Why would you clip that low? if you fall your belayer will be slammed into the rock and you will fall very hard. But anyways nice explanation of the camp swing!
It was a joke! :)
@@dailyclimbing 😂
if he happened to fall all the forces would go to the quickdraw/bolt and not on the belay device/his parter, doesn't make a big difference but still it is better then nothing.
MEH, clove hitch all the way.
Another pointless piece of gear that can be replaced by a clove hitch
7:42 well... the way the carabiner is clipped to the anker is not the best practice...
They copy the connect adjust from petzl . Lol
First
Nice!
Hell ya dude