Cheap=Smart. I educated myself aboutgunsmithing a hundred years ago when I was a baby. From the public library I looked at all the literature available. The most comprehensive book I could find , had hundreds of pages “ the first half” on making the tools and techniques required for guns smithing. I have applied same notion to all my other endeavours, from fishing, hunting, fabrication, back packing whatever.... my first trip is not to the store to purchase stuff. Half the stuff I have, my most valuable stuff ie;useful is made /fabricolbled. I like your video for promoting the same idea. I mean all the stuff you buy at the store was once made in someone’s shop. Thanks for sharing...I’m restoring a fishing boat, and wanted some ideas on riveting.
New subsciber here. And all i have to say is thank u for showing us how to install rivets and how they work. Keep up the great content and looking forward to more boat content. Much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤
Have a 10 foot flat boat given to me. Bunch of rivets were loose. Bought a bag of 3/8th long, 3/16th diameter brazers. Made a air hammer rig like yours. The trick is to have the boat hull and seat base or crossbraces smack dab together. Any gap may widen from flex over time is my theory. Brazers will work if done right. I opted to use #10-24 half inch long stainless machine screws with a #10 stainless washer and stainless Ny-Lok nut on the interior side. Used a little bit of JB Weld Marine epoxy under the screw head. It draws the two pieces together tighter than a bull's ass. The screw protrudes a little inside but not enough to poke a hole in bare feet. It's a little unsightly but she floats. Not sure if there would be electrolysis between the aluminum and stainless but I think the JB epoxy will provide a barrier.
very good . i tried what you did but the rivet on the inside bent and didnt look like your finished product . maybe my rivets were too long . id love to see a boat factory video of how they are installed . I was told they are called “ blind rivets “
Hey man great video, we are trying to repair our aluminum flat bottom, and we are having a hard time figuring out what size closed in rivets to use? Like what diameter and what grip? This is somewhere we will be fishing around so it can’t stick out really far from the boat, don’t want it snagging on us, or I don’t want the kids falling and getting hurt, what would you recommend? ThanksJay
Jaleel David you want it to be 3/16-1/4" longer then the thickness of your material. The closed end rivets mushroom nicely and leave a nice rounded edge
I'm repairing my old alum. utility boat and measured the holes after removing some loose rivets. The holes are approx. .170" in diameter. Should I use 5/32" rivets or drill out larger to use 3/16"? I feel the .014" slop (if using 5/32) would be taken up by expansion from the rivet......no? Also, whats best way to cut the rivets? Cutting wheel, pliers, etc? I feel pliers would ruin/flare the end too much....
If only I had seen this a few weeks ago...hahaI used rivets that were way too long and had a hole in the center. I don't have an air hammer anyways. Good video, good info.
Zack Hughes you can do this with a ball pein hammer and dolly as well. The air gun is nice, a little quicker, but not required. A good friend with hearing protection might be required either way LOL
I have a sylvan 16.5 foot back troller and has a little corrosion and im replacing the transom and I had to pull the z bracket thats is buck riveted on because corrosion was behind it also
Im going to add a little more reinforcement To the back im going to use aluminum self taping screws to hold the splash plate on it has steel screws for who ever did it before
LoL ! put a regulator on that hammer gun ( you would make one out of a temp gauge probably ) And that bolt your using isn't heavy enough to buck them thar rivets. Sometimes you just gotta spend the $ to do the job right !
Cheap=Smart. I educated myself aboutgunsmithing a hundred years ago when I was a baby. From the public library I looked at all the literature available. The most comprehensive book I could find , had hundreds of pages “ the first half” on making the tools and techniques required for guns smithing. I have applied same notion to all my other endeavours, from fishing, hunting, fabrication, back packing whatever.... my first trip is not to the store to purchase stuff. Half the stuff I have, my most valuable stuff ie;useful is made /fabricolbled.
I like your video for promoting the same idea. I mean all the stuff you buy at the store was once made in someone’s shop. Thanks for sharing...I’m restoring a fishing boat, and wanted some ideas on riveting.
New subsciber here. And all i have to say is thank u for showing us how to install rivets and how they work. Keep up the great content and looking forward to more boat content. Much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤
Much aprechiated. No new boat stuff for a while but it will happen once I build my new house.
Have a 10 foot flat boat given to me. Bunch of rivets were loose. Bought a bag of 3/8th long, 3/16th diameter brazers.
Made a air hammer rig like yours. The trick is to have the boat hull and seat base or crossbraces smack dab together. Any gap may widen from flex over time is my theory. Brazers will work if done right. I opted to use
#10-24 half inch long stainless machine screws with a #10 stainless washer and stainless Ny-Lok nut on the interior side. Used a little bit of JB Weld Marine epoxy under the screw head. It draws the two pieces together tighter than a bull's ass. The screw protrudes a little inside but not enough to poke a hole in bare feet. It's a little unsightly but she floats. Not sure if there would be electrolysis between the aluminum and stainless but I think the JB epoxy will provide a barrier.
Thanks! I know it has been years since you did this video but it helped me in 2022!
Thats why I do this. Thank you
I would still silicone the inside to also make a soft cushion the protruding end etc. thanks for the info and DIY rivet hammer :)
Thanks for the vid, about to start a boat project with my 17 yr old son and was not sure the best way to fix leaks on a budget.
About to start my first boat build ad can't wait to get it started
thats a great idea on the tools. Just what i needed. Thanks a bunch
That bolt would be called a "bucking bar" in aircraft construction.
The OEM way is really a two person job.
Great video. Thanks!
brilliant ! great vidio's thanks! stupid question: would it work better with air chisel on other side ? (peen side)
That was brilliant!!! Thank you!!
good video man very informative
Nice vid, your voice sounds creepily close to mine, and it's freaking me out
Haha nice long lost cousins
very good . i tried what you did but the rivet on the inside bent and didnt look like your finished product . maybe my rivets were too long . id love to see a boat factory video of how they are installed . I was told they are called “ blind rivets “
The air tool is called a rivet set,the bolt head would be a bucking bar.
Thanks allot for this video.
Great job & good advise.
Nice video. Efficient looking boat build. Did all 3 types of your rivots end up 3/16 diameter? Keep up the good work and keep your lines wet!
I know the regular and closed end are 3/16 for sure. The brazier heads I'm 90% sure I used 3/16. They come in many sizes though
Hey man great video, we are trying to repair our aluminum flat bottom, and we are having a hard time figuring out what size closed in rivets to use? Like what diameter and what grip? This is somewhere we will be fishing around so it can’t stick out really far from the boat, don’t want it snagging on us, or I don’t want the kids falling and getting hurt, what would you recommend? ThanksJay
Jaleel David you want it to be 3/16-1/4" longer then the thickness of your material. The closed end rivets mushroom nicely and leave a nice rounded edge
How has the closed end river held up over year under the waterline? Example right at the bottom of the hull.
Absolutely have yet to have one fail
Would you recommend to use a size up?
Or if the hole still seems to be okay fitted with a 3/16 bit. Should be okay to use the 3/16.
I'm repairing my old alum. utility boat and measured the holes after removing some loose rivets. The holes are approx. .170" in diameter. Should I use 5/32" rivets or drill out larger to use 3/16"? I feel the .014" slop (if using 5/32) would be taken up by expansion from the rivet......no?
Also, whats best way to cut the rivets? Cutting wheel, pliers, etc? I feel pliers would ruin/flare the end too much....
Personally I would use 3/16 and also I find the best way is to drill out
If only I had seen this a few weeks ago...hahaI used rivets that were way too long and had a hole in the center. I don't have an air hammer anyways. Good video, good info.
Zack Hughes you can do this with a ball pein hammer and dolly as well. The air gun is nice, a little quicker, but not required. A good friend with hearing protection might be required either way LOL
I viewed your video, pretty much easy. I'm having a hard time finding closed end rivets. Where on the Internet can't I find them
I apologize I just saw this. Amazon I've had the best luck with
I thought that was a Minnesota Accent.
Thank You!
Captain Carpman
What's the dimple you put in your diy bucking bar for? All my bucking bars are smooth and flat
Dimple help round the back side and put a like mushroom top on it instead of flat circle
awesome - please link the last oem rivet source - thanks in advance
looks like the middle one did crack the hull
what is happening to the rivit on the inside of the boat? is it just getting wider? how does it tighten? thanks
Yes gets wider
Do you have a number to get ahold of to do some rivet repair?
I replied to your dm
what did you use to shorten the rivets? Will just a pair of tin snips or some type of shears work?
Shane Smith I used a band saw
He used way to much time to shorten them ... LoL !
Do you need to put any sealer on the. Mushroom side
Don't need to but it never hurts to add a little. I do.
Oh okay
I have a sylvan 16.5 foot back troller and has a little corrosion and im replacing the transom and I had to pull the z bracket thats is buck riveted on because corrosion was behind it also
Im going to add a little more reinforcement To the back im going to use aluminum self taping screws to hold the splash plate on it has steel screws for who ever did it before
What type of sealer im thinking of using g flex seal
I guess there's no issue with dissimilar metals here? In the aluminium auto industry they won't let steel and aluminium get near each other
This is why we use aluminum rivets
where did you get those biggest solid rivets ?
Amazon
@@JDSOutdoors thanks !
why not aluminum weld holes ?
Because thin old dirty metal welds look like ass.
Thank you! What PSI do you set for the air hammer gun?
I am also searching for this answer today.
Gotta have like 50 to 90 pounds
I would also like to know how you shortened the rivet shank. Thanks.
Dremel with a cut off wheel. Shank should be cut off so 1 1/2 thickness of rivet shaft sticking out.
Nice vid very well done Thank you
aren't you putting the air hammer on the wrong side?
Nope it goes on the head
bucking tool needs to be heavy..bolt isn't.
Works just fine in the hundreds of rivets I've installed.
Where can I get the rivets?
Amazon has them all
Woodprix has very good designs and plans.
Can't find these rivets anywhere
Which ones I cover multiple
LoL ! put a regulator on that hammer gun ( you would make one out of a temp gauge probably ) And that bolt your using isn't heavy enough to buck them thar rivets. Sometimes you just gotta spend the $ to do the job right !
Sure seems heavy enough it's worked well on hundreds of them
Ribbet Ribbet
I did it too. This is what I used Woodprix designs for
Watched 7 minutes of useless video for 30 seconds of instruction. 😢