Excellent! And at the end there you say this wasn’t scientific, but as a PhD student, I’d say this was scientific. You had a blind hypothesis (not knowing what to expect). You had a method (all pieces were painted and cured at the same time, and run through the machine at the same time). You had steps in your method. You had a control piece, and an experiment group. You produced a set of results. You had a conclusion. That sir, is science. Excellent!
Great video. No unnecessary elevator music, barking dogs or air compressor tools making noise. This was a well thought out test and comparison. Well done.
Thank you for this video. I've done some similar comparisons of primers as part of a motorcycle restoration project, although I didn't use a tumbler. While not a rattle-can, I settled on Eastwood's Epoxy Primer. It's Isocyanate-free, lays down smooth, gets great adhesion, and is incredibly hard. Sanding out a run is a real chore. I use a small Iwata HVLP gun. The same primer can can be used as a primer-sealer when cut with more reducer (after body work or using a polyester sanding primer). Thank you again!
Excellent video and well done with good presentation on the results. I thought an hour in the deburirng machine would have removed the primer on all of the samples and the test would have been inconclusive - boy, was I wrong. Based on your results, I'm going for the ACE Primer - Thanks again! Unfortunately, I have no value-able input on what causes the dark patina.
Good thing we have ace hardware stores here in the Phils. Great comparison. Thanks so much! Gotta do diy paint job for our aluminum windows since they were just recycled/reused and fitted to our new house 😁
Thank you!!! I must have watched this when deciding on primer for an aluminum threshold. The black top coat has held up amazingly but I didn't remember which of the numerous brands I have on hand that I used. I came across this obscure ACE Primer in my arsenal and thought I remembered it out shining many others. Checked and sure enough it was your amazing test that convinced me. Now I can prime and paint 2 more French Door thresholds with confidence.
FWIW. My understanding is that bare untreated aluminium needs to have an etch primer applied lightly before applying a top coat of epoxy and allowing the epoxy to cure for 7 days. The etch primer has an acid in it that causes the aluminium to have a micro-rough surface which allows the expoxy to grip the surface.
Thanks for this nice, thorough comparison! I'm painting some extruded aluminum handles for my kitchen cabinets. I'm priming them with the Rustoleum self-etching primer, then with their appliance epoxy black paint. I don't expect them to see nearly the abuse that the vibratory cleaner inflicted on your test subjects, so hopefully they'll last for a long time.
My understanding on paint is that any enamel that contains ammonia creates a chemical reaction between the paint and the aluminum substrate that prevents proper adhesion. I've had very good luck with aluminum prepped with a 80-100 grit sandblaster and etching primer.
Dang, I wish there was a can of VHT's etching primer in this video lol. Priceless info, and no fluff. Awesome video man, I just can't believe how much better the Ace store brand did than the rest.
Love the video! I would love if you could expand on this idea with other primers and different tests. Primers such as the 2k Epoxy primers in a can, Zinc Chromate primer, Zinc phosphate primer, and the other hard-hitters. And then do corrosion tests, scratch tests. And to expand on the etching of aluminum process, like vinegar to BONDERITE. Just stuff I haven't seen in any other youtube video. Thanks!
Big thumbs up for this! I am curious if the results would be the same if each piece was put in separately for only about 20-30 mins at a time. I’m thinking the only difference might be in the products that lost 50% or less in this test. The other products would probably be about equal results. Either way, thanks a ton for sharing your experiments!
Thanks for this video! If you ever decide to do a second round, please consider including: Moeller ‘Zinc Primer’ which is specifically designated for Aluminum. Also, Rustoleum apparently has an Aluminum primer now.
Great video, I came across a product called POR 15 and I got it as a kit that came with a degreaser and acid for etching and the metal first then you washer it off and use the POR 15 which turns into a ceramic like coating. Its the best I've ever use.
I believe it is pronounced PATINA with a P, and it comes from the oxidization of aluminum due to the cavitation of the water on the surface of the aluminum. Same thing happens to aluminum trailers, boats etc. Excellent video, thank you!
@@fady904 Window frames I used the Dulux Metalshield etch primer that is anti-corrosion and the Dulux dura max high performance enamel which is drip free/ 2 coats dries in 30 mins - professional factory results. don't forget 120 or higher before priming and wash with acetone to clean clean clean before starting.
The reason the parts turn black is explained in two ways. To understand that, one needs to remember that aluminum "rusts" like iron, just not continuously. The Oxygen layer that forms creates a hard, clear, protective barrier. That Aluminum Oxide barrier prevents paint from sticking (hence etching). The 2 things that cause color in aluminum (especially black) are this: acids, detergents, etc., causing pores changes and thickness of the oxidizing layer (which can become greater in surface area due to pitting or scratching). Aluminim forms a hexagonal cell-like layer with a pore in the middle. Pore distance affects refraction. Here's a tech article portion on the process: "Different colors can be explained by different degrees of reflection and absortption of sunlight components by oxide films and the aluminum surface. White light has different components which can create a spectrum of colors either naturally (rainbow) or in a laboratory with the help of diffraction or dispersion. If the oxide film does not absorb any component of light and all components are evenly reflected by the aluminum surface then the film looks colorless (white). If oxide film absorbs all components of light without discrimination then the film looks black. If a specific component of light is absorbed better than others, then the combination of reflected components without the absorbed one will create a non-white color."
Great video. Just what I needed for an aluminum painting project. I'd have to agree. My thought is that something in the detergent caused, helped or aided in the "gray patina" you were asking about.
Thanks for this video. It's very helpful. I have used a different primer on other metals like black iron pipe with great results. I have yet to try it on aluminum. I wonder how it would hold up. It's the Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Universal Bonding Primer, White.
From my days of machining aluminium, it gives off back kind of dusty color, especially when wet. I think that in the tumbler it is alu oxide that is being produced.
Well it looks like the pores the media release “gunk” plus the tank walls are causing the issue. As you continue to tumble the part is creates a ruff surface that allowed the paint to adhere better. A light acidic solution could remove the “patina”.The only other solution would be to Anodizing -it protects them for saline corrosion agents as well as abrasion. Additionally, they can be tinted in many different colours to suit your application.
As a heads-up to anyone using Dupli-Color self etching primer, our local auto body supply shop informs me that it must be covered with a "blocker', another coat of ordinary primer, or it will attack and bubble the topcoat in about a years time. And he was so right because I had already painted something without the blocker and it got screwed up and rough after awhile.
You’re saying to prime over the self etching primer before painting?? Ive heard it said to sand after the first coat of self etching then apply a second coat.
I worked in automotive making aluminum crash management parts, some of those were coated or plated, for certain they have to "key" the surface so that the plating sticks. I am curious if this translates to paints as well, like the "patina" version here has some characteristics of "keying" to help the paint stick to the surface.
I'm killing myself trying to get paint to stick to some aluminum frame channels. I tried sanding, SE primers, different paints and there is always a spot somewhere peeling off. I'm heading down to Ace tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Aluminum is very hard to paint I have a project that I'm working on and I tried to paint it and the paint you could just doesn't take much to scrape it off with your finger nail so I stripped it off and I picked up some vinegar about a gallon and I put it in a pail and I let it sit the aluminum sit in the pail and I hooked a battery charger up to to one one part of the aluminum and I had another piece of aluminum in the pail and I let it sit there for about a couple hours and I it formed a fuzzy coating on the little part that I wanted to paint I use some DuraCoat self-etching primer and some dura coat regular paint it seems that I can't scratch it off I'll have to see how it stands up
Great content ! For Rustoleum, their specific Aluminum Primer might’ve been of more interest than the Rustoleum 2x Ultra Cover tested. Big Surprise on the Ace Rust Stop. Thanks for the Test !
An ok test for a home shop. I've got to wonder though how much of these get vibrated to the bottom because they are heavier than the media and thus would not get as much abrasion on one side which could / would skew the final results. PS..love the SawCyl.. I have that bandsaw and use it a lot so Id like to get one soon.
I think with aluminum you have to get rid of the hard oxidation scale for the acid in self etching to do anything. The catch is now you've already roughed up the surface so normal primer will also work. At the end of the day, self etching is only worth it for extreme corrosion or abrasion applications, then it's usually combined with a zinc compound, and you still need to abrade the surface first.
Primer is probably sticking to the patina one better because there are millions of little "scratches" on it just like sanding. So the primer can grab on easier. Also, it probably cleans off a lot of oil and other stuff on the aluminium.
I think the most important "lesson" here is that you ought to stick with the patina version of that alumimum part for your band-saw lifter! The durability of that patina is amazing.
I was brought up priming alum with zinc oxide or chromide. The other day i was told never to use those on aluminum as it is acidic and will corrode the metal. Ive done airplane parts with it for decades. Ive got the same cardboard work bench cover. Ill be interested to see the follow up video in a couple of years to see which primers and paints hold
I think you would have had a better comparison by roughing the extruded alum first (which is what your deburring did to the patina version and really should be done to alum before painting anyway)
gets darks cause is the natural byproduct of the aluminum oxidation process. smut showed it to contain condensed magnesium and aluminum, so it appears that magnesium may be the main culprit.
Loved this and really appreciate your endeavour - the world needs people like you! I couldn't help wondering how you knew which one was which after it came out of the agitator .... how did you mark them?
Thanks, I wish I saw this before today. Just used Dynaseal to coat the inside of my aluminum hitch toolbox to keep my tools from getting aluminum all over them. I already had the dynaseal, so sanded with 220 and laid it on. If it doesn't stay ill try the ACE. 👍
By not putting anything on top of the primer, you've changed the experiment from testing how well primer sticks to the surface to how well it sticks and how good it is if used as a *paint*. Experiment would be cleaner if you'd apply a coat of epoxy paint on top of the primer.
Do you have any recomendation on prep, prime, and painting an aluminum engine block? I was considering using the self etch primer but after looking at your video seems like the ace hardware rust stop is better.
painted aircraft and missles for the USAF for several years. Used zinc cromate primer on all aluminum to prevent the blackening which is corrosion. Not sure that primer is even available now because of its composition.
Thanks for doing this, it's awesome information. I would be interested in recreating the test, only painting over the primer this time. I'm curious as to how well the paint holds onto the primer under that extreme punishment
I'd like to see the pieces sanded/roughed up first as well, which increases adhesion. When I do my nails, we rough up the surface of the nail with 100 or 180 grit to scuff the surface so nail polish adheres better, and the same principle applies to painting other smooth surfaces.
Since the entire point of priming the aluminum is to prepare it for painting, it seems completely obvious to me that paint durability is the test that needed to be done. Yet, that's not what we got.
Thank you so much for sharing this . Now I have question I have small bar of aluminum and I want to dip it in solution ( polymer) it has green color. What should I do for the aluminum bar to make the polymer color stick on it ? is there any rep steps ? should I use the primers code too ?
every modern airplane is aluminum and is painted we've been doing this for a century. get an AC 4313-B manual and follow that method. Clean, degrease, acid etch, wash, alodyne, wash, DTM epoxy primer , top coat , clear coat if its a base/clear.
From past experience, it seems that any water/detergent (dish soap, simple green etc etc) mix will patina aluminum. For best results, clean aluminum by sanding then wipe down with acetone to get the best adhesion results.
Excellent! And at the end there you say this wasn’t scientific, but as a PhD student, I’d say this was scientific. You had a blind hypothesis (not knowing what to expect). You had a method (all pieces were painted and cured at the same time, and run through the machine at the same time). You had steps in your method. You had a control piece, and an experiment group. You produced a set of results. You had a conclusion. That sir, is science. Excellent!
Thumbs up for no music, no filler bs.
Absolutely 1000% thumbs up for no music!!!!!!
Great video. No unnecessary elevator music, barking dogs or air compressor tools making noise. This was a well thought out test and comparison. Well done.
There was a crying dog near the beginning.
Thanks for doing this test! You have contributed to the DIY body of knowledge and we all owe you a big thanks for this!
this video is freaking pricless.... seriously god bless this man
All great info. no music, no bullshit. 10/10 mate.
Nice job. I'm starting a project that requires painting some aluminum and you've helped me a lot in terms of selecting a paint, thanks!
Thank you for this video. I've done some similar comparisons of primers as part of a motorcycle restoration project, although I didn't use a tumbler. While not a rattle-can, I settled on Eastwood's Epoxy Primer. It's Isocyanate-free, lays down smooth, gets great adhesion, and is incredibly hard. Sanding out a run is a real chore. I use a small Iwata HVLP gun. The same primer can can be used as a primer-sealer when cut with more reducer (after body work or using a polyester sanding primer). Thank you again!
Excellent video and well done with good presentation on the results. I thought an hour in the deburirng machine would have removed the primer on all of the samples and the test would have been inconclusive - boy, was I wrong. Based on your results, I'm going for the ACE Primer - Thanks again!
Unfortunately, I have no value-able input on what causes the dark patina.
Andy, thank you so much for making this video! I’ve had great luck with Ace Paint and glad to know the primer preformed they best.
Thank you for posting this video sir. You just saved me quite a bit of time and money with this primer research and testing.!!
very nice work this is the kind of thing that is hard to do, your work is appreciated.
Good thing we have ace hardware stores here in the Phils. Great comparison. Thanks so much! Gotta do diy paint job for our aluminum windows since they were just recycled/reused and fitted to our new house 😁
Great job. Excellent analysis. Surprising outcome. Thanks for the helpful vid.
Thank you!!! I must have watched this when deciding on primer for an aluminum threshold. The black top coat has held up amazingly but I didn't remember which of the numerous brands I have on hand that I used. I came across this obscure ACE Primer in my arsenal and thought I remembered it out shining many others. Checked and sure enough it was your amazing test that convinced me. Now I can prime and paint 2 more French Door thresholds with confidence.
Thank you for making this video. Its simple to the point and your open to others input. These are the videos that I like to see.
FWIW. My understanding is that bare untreated aluminium needs to have an etch primer applied lightly before applying a top coat of epoxy and allowing the epoxy to cure for 7 days. The etch primer has an acid in it that causes the aluminium to have a micro-rough surface which allows the expoxy to grip the surface.
Thanks for this nice, thorough comparison!
I'm painting some extruded aluminum handles for my kitchen cabinets. I'm priming them with the Rustoleum self-etching primer, then with their appliance epoxy black paint. I don't expect them to see nearly the abuse that the vibratory cleaner inflicted on your test subjects, so hopefully they'll last for a long time.
My understanding on paint is that any enamel that contains ammonia creates a chemical reaction between the paint and the aluminum substrate that prevents proper adhesion. I've had very good luck with aluminum prepped with a 80-100 grit sandblaster and etching primer.
Learning to paint textured aluminum handles for a knife 🗡️ a small project but I appreciate you posting this. Now I know how to do this the right way
Andy, very helpful and informative and elegant in its simplicity. Thanks
Thanks for your test as its the first in my education about the painting of aluminum. Impressive I'd say.
Dang, I wish there was a can of VHT's etching primer in this video lol. Priceless info, and no fluff. Awesome video man, I just can't believe how much better the Ace store brand did than the rest.
Thanks for a great video and a great test! Exactly what I was looking for.
Love the video! I would love if you could expand on this idea with other primers and different tests. Primers such as the 2k Epoxy primers in a can, Zinc Chromate primer, Zinc phosphate primer, and the other hard-hitters. And then do corrosion tests, scratch tests. And to expand on the etching of aluminum process, like vinegar to BONDERITE. Just stuff I haven't seen in any other youtube video. Thanks!
OK. 🤣
Nice experiment. Good Job! Thanks for this.
Thanks so much for taking 6the time for this test and posting the video. Exactly what I needed, thank you!
Thank you for doing this comparison!
I came here to learn. And I did. Thank you. Have been using the Rust Oleum self etching. And now I know for sure it is not worth carrying home.
Big thumbs up for this! I am curious if the results would be the same if each piece was put in separately for only about 20-30 mins at a time. I’m thinking the only difference might be in the products that lost 50% or less in this test. The other products would probably be about equal results. Either way, thanks a ton for sharing your experiments!
I love all of Ace spray paints, thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Wow, that was a great video. You’ve just helped me to chose primer.
Thanks for this video! If you ever decide to do a second round, please consider including: Moeller ‘Zinc Primer’ which is specifically designated for Aluminum. Also, Rustoleum apparently has an Aluminum primer now.
I would also like to see the self etching primers sprayed over painted aluminum.
Great video, I came across a product called POR 15 and I got it as a kit that came with a degreaser and acid for etching and the metal first then you washer it off and use the POR 15 which turns into a ceramic like coating. Its the best I've ever use.
Correct, the POR, is Pour Over Rust.
Great for car frames and trailers.
I believe it is pronounced PATINA with a P, and it comes from the oxidization of aluminum due to the cavitation of the water on the surface of the aluminum. Same thing happens to aluminum trailers, boats etc.
Excellent video, thank you!
You are a dying breed my friend thank you so much!
He looks very much alive to me.
If you are painting bare aluminum use 120 grit or higher for good adhesion and use self etching primer if you are going to prime first.
Which spray paint should I use after applying the primer?
@@fady904 what spray paint did you end up using?
@@zlab1904 I primed first with Rust-Oleum Primer Pintura Base Adhesion Promoter, then I used Metal Cast Anodized Coating from Dupli.Color.
@@fady904 Window frames I used the Dulux Metalshield etch primer that is anti-corrosion and the Dulux dura max high performance enamel which is drip free/ 2 coats dries in 30 mins - professional factory results. don't forget 120 or higher before priming and wash with acetone to clean clean clean before starting.
The reason the parts turn black is explained in two ways. To understand that, one needs to remember that aluminum "rusts" like iron, just not continuously. The Oxygen layer that forms creates a hard, clear, protective barrier. That Aluminum Oxide barrier prevents paint from sticking (hence etching). The 2 things that cause color in aluminum (especially black) are this: acids, detergents, etc., causing pores changes and thickness of the oxidizing layer (which can become greater in surface area due to pitting or scratching). Aluminim forms a hexagonal cell-like layer with a pore in the middle. Pore distance affects refraction.
Here's a tech article portion on the process:
"Different colors can be explained by different degrees of reflection and absortption of sunlight components by oxide films and the aluminum surface. White light has different components which can create a spectrum of colors either naturally (rainbow) or in a laboratory with the help of diffraction or dispersion. If the oxide film does not absorb any component of light and all components are evenly reflected by the aluminum surface then the film looks colorless (white). If oxide film absorbs all components of light without discrimination then the film looks black. If a specific component of light is absorbed better than others, then the combination of reflected components without the absorbed one will create a non-white color."
Great video. Just what I needed for an aluminum painting project. I'd have to agree. My thought is that something in the detergent caused, helped or aided in the "gray patina" you were asking about.
Thank you! I noticed his best choice was a "rust stop" primer
Is this now a toxic surface?
Is there products and procedure to refinish aluminum panel that has small corrosion spots on otherwise clean panel you could suggest
Thanks for this video. It's very helpful. I have used a different primer on other metals like black iron pipe with great results. I have yet to try it on aluminum. I wonder how it would hold up. It's the Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Universal Bonding Primer, White.
From my days of machining aluminium, it gives off back kind of dusty color, especially when wet. I think that in the tumbler it is alu oxide that is being produced.
Thanks for what you've done 5 years ago for us
Well it looks like the pores the media release “gunk” plus the tank walls are causing the issue. As you continue to tumble the part is creates a ruff surface that allowed the paint to adhere better. A light acidic solution could remove the “patina”.The only other solution would be to Anodizing -it protects them for saline corrosion agents as well as abrasion. Additionally, they can be tinted in many different colours to suit your application.
As a heads-up to anyone using Dupli-Color self etching primer, our local auto body supply shop informs me that it must be covered with a "blocker', another coat of ordinary primer, or it will attack and bubble the topcoat in about a years time. And he was so right because I had already painted something without the blocker and it got screwed up and rough after awhile.
You’re saying to prime over the self etching primer before painting?? Ive heard it said to sand after the first coat of self etching then apply a second coat.
@@geomanko4142 Yes, that's what the autobody supply told me and I've tried it both ways and he was right.
Primer is definitely not a top coat.
So what did you end up doing for painting your engine block? I am running into the same problem right now.
@@kesu90 I used and still use ordinary Rustoleum gray automotive primer from HD, Lowes, Wally World everywhere.
great video, I use the rustoleum for the self etching , and its a bit of high building as well
Wow! Great video!
Thanks, Great video, best true life test I have seen. I will be showing this to my class.
Great video sir, thank you for your time & effort.
Thanks for the well done test. Headed to Ace tomorrow.
Very helpful , keep them coming , thanks from Mike miami
Thanks. I found two cans in my garage and was curious if they would work on rust spots on a truck. Good information.
Incredibly valuable. Thanks for this research.
Awesome. I've got my answer on painting my aluminum rims.
I worked in automotive making aluminum crash management parts, some of those were coated or plated, for certain they have to "key" the surface so that the plating sticks. I am curious if this translates to paints as well, like the "patina" version here has some characteristics of "keying" to help the paint stick to the surface.
Thanks for the video.. I'm painting some aluminum parts off my ATV
I'm killing myself trying to get paint to stick to some aluminum frame channels. I tried sanding, SE primers, different paints and there is always a spot somewhere peeling off. I'm heading down to Ace tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Aluminum is very hard to paint I have a project that I'm working on and I tried to paint it and the paint you could just doesn't take much to scrape it off with your finger nail so I stripped it off and I picked up some vinegar about a gallon and I put it in a pail and I let it sit the aluminum sit in the pail and I hooked a battery charger up to to one one part of the aluminum and I had another piece of aluminum in the pail and I let it sit there for about a couple hours and I it formed a fuzzy coating on the little part that I wanted to paint I use some DuraCoat self-etching primer and some dura coat regular paint it seems that I can't scratch it off I'll have to see how it stands up
Thanks this great heads up info. Keep it up and take care mate! I am so finding a solution for aluminium
Zinc chromate primer. This has been well known for almost 100 years. It's sold by most boat dealers or marine supply stores and on Amazon.
Great content ! For Rustoleum, their specific Aluminum Primer might’ve been of more interest than the Rustoleum 2x Ultra Cover tested. Big Surprise on the Ace Rust Stop.
Thanks for the Test !
Excellent work, thank you for sharing 👏
Great information. I need to paint my out door aluminum window frames. I think they were factory painted white. Not sure what method was used.
Thanks for the comparison. I need to paint some aluminum motorcycle parts tomorrow so may just go with the ACE primer.
An ok test for a home shop. I've got to wonder though how much of these get vibrated to the bottom because they are heavier than the media and thus would not get as much abrasion on one side which could / would skew the final results. PS..love the SawCyl.. I have that bandsaw and use it a lot so Id like to get one soon.
Well done Thanks for Sharing👍👍
Dude! you are a love! thanx now i know what to buy.
The “patina” is oxide from the detergent and water
Alodine first, then use a zinc cromate primer.
Reasonable test, surprising results, just the kind of thing I like to see.
Awesome video man.
Thanks for this!
I think with aluminum you have to get rid of the hard oxidation scale for the acid in self etching to do anything. The catch is now you've already roughed up the surface so normal primer will also work. At the end of the day, self etching is only worth it for extreme corrosion or abrasion applications, then it's usually combined with a zinc compound, and you still need to abrade the surface first.
Primer is probably sticking to the patina one better because there are millions of little "scratches" on it just like sanding. So the primer can grab on easier. Also, it probably cleans off a lot of oil and other stuff on the aluminium.
You did a great job! Nice video!
I think the most important "lesson" here is that you ought to stick with the patina version of that alumimum part for your band-saw lifter! The durability of that patina is amazing.
Aluminum oxide is nearly as hard as diamond
Thank you so much this was exactly what I was looking for
Thank you! Very informative video.
I was brought up priming alum with zinc oxide or chromide. The other day i was told never to use those on aluminum as it is acidic and will corrode the metal. Ive done airplane parts with it for decades. Ive got the same cardboard work bench cover. Ill be interested to see the follow up video in a couple of years to see which primers and paints hold
I think you would have had a better comparison by roughing the extruded alum first (which is what your deburring did to the patina version and really should be done to alum before painting anyway)
Thanks been looking for this
My mum's gravy sticks to anything, once it dries, you will never get it off. :-)
PS, The lumps might be a problem though!
ha!
🤣🤣
would the paint stck better to the non patina version if it was sanded before?
That's a good question since everyone that is priming then painting aluminum or metal will sand it first. Great Video!
To the point. Thanks for taking the time to create the video and sharing it. May The Almighty continue Blessing your human touch.
Bingo! Perfect! Exactly what I needed to know.
Thanks for a educational experience... 👍
Cool man!! Love it. I’m getting ready to paint aluminum.
I've been looking all over for this. Thank you! Did you consider trying an automotive spray primers?
Thank you so much for your experiment.
gets darks cause is the natural byproduct of the aluminum oxidation process. smut showed it to contain condensed magnesium and aluminum, so it appears that magnesium may be the main culprit.
Loved this and really appreciate your endeavour - the world needs people like you! I couldn't help wondering how you knew which one was which after it came out of the agitator .... how did you mark them?
He did say in the video that he stamped a number in the metal corresponding to the numbers on the cans of paint.
Thanks, I wish I saw this before today. Just used Dynaseal to coat the inside of my aluminum hitch toolbox to keep my tools from getting aluminum all over them. I already had the dynaseal, so sanded with 220 and laid it on. If it doesn't stay ill try the ACE. 👍
Very cool comparisons! I wish VHT primer would have been tested.
By not putting anything on top of the primer, you've changed the experiment from testing how well primer sticks to the surface to how well it sticks and how good it is if used as a *paint*. Experiment would be cleaner if you'd apply a coat of epoxy paint on top of the primer.
Do you have any recomendation on prep, prime, and painting an aluminum engine block?
I was considering using the self etch primer but after looking at your video seems like the ace hardware rust stop is better.
Wonderful video!!
This is very helpful. Thank you.
painted aircraft and missles for the USAF for several years. Used zinc cromate primer on all aluminum to prevent the blackening which is corrosion. Not sure that primer is even available now because of its composition.
Thanks for doing this, it's awesome information. I would be interested in recreating the test, only painting over the primer this time. I'm curious as to how well the paint holds onto the primer under that extreme punishment
I'd like to see the pieces sanded/roughed up first as well, which increases adhesion. When I do my nails, we rough up the surface of the nail with 100 or 180 grit to scuff the surface so nail polish adheres better, and the same principle applies to painting other smooth surfaces.
Since the entire point of priming the aluminum is to prepare it for painting, it seems completely obvious to me that paint durability is the test that needed to be done. Yet, that's not what we got.
@@Josef_R Ya, i was thinking that too.
thanks for all the info
Thank you so much for sharing this . Now I have question I have small bar of aluminum and I want to dip it in solution ( polymer) it has green color. What should I do for the aluminum bar to make the polymer color stick on it ? is there any rep steps ? should I use the primers code too ?
every modern airplane is aluminum and is painted we've been doing this for a century. get an AC 4313-B manual and follow that method. Clean, degrease, acid etch, wash, alodyne, wash, DTM epoxy primer , top coat , clear coat if its a base/clear.
From past experience, it seems that any water/detergent (dish soap, simple green etc etc) mix will patina aluminum. For best results, clean aluminum by sanding then wipe down with acetone to get the best adhesion results.
Agree 100 percent on the soap