BIGGEST PROBLEM With LED REPLACEMENT BULBS In Your Car Or Truck!!!
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 02. 2019
- In this video I show, what I think is, the biggest problem with LED replacement bulbs for your car or truck! These LEDs are awesome right? Bright white light that looks modern and uses very little energy... But, there is one major downside and that is, they don't last that long. I've been on a search to try and find a better LED replacement bulb and I'm hoping I've found one.
Let me know your thoughts in the comment section below!
SEALIGHT 194 LED: amzn.to/2MUSN2h
Other Automotive LEDs: amzn.to/2I3nF1I
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon affiliate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon Affiliate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I've been dabbling with LED bulbs for over 10 years now and I think this may be the best real life review and information video I've seen to date. Well done and thank you for taking the time to post it!
Hey man. I'm an electronics engineer whom designed led lighting fixtures. You're totally right. The problem about replacement led bulbs is that the original housing is not designed to dissipate heat so, the LEDs work harder. The heat is an enemy of LEDs. Other than that's these cinese bulbs uses crappy LEDs, so they will color shift and loose loose luminous flux very rapidly with the time. Ok, it costs 1 dollar anyway. A decent led costs one dollar itself. Unfortunate there's no miracle. All these retrofit LEDs suffer from the lack of dissipation by design. Be ready to replace it in a medium therm. Keep the good working. Peace brow.
Thank you for the details.
Replace the resistor so they run cool and don't get hot. They will also last a long time without losing any brightness you will notice. They are all overdriven so they die quickly. See Big clives demonstrations. I did this to all bulbs in my house and car 5 years ago and have only had to swap 2 bulbs.
@@Mr.Unacceptable what does replacing the resistor mean?
sir thanks for this video, so informative, can i ask is ok to put double contact to a single contact LED signal light. i have hyperflash priblem.. thanks for the reply
I bought the same LED bulbs, all I need now is a car.
Haha!
Nah man, just mount them to your bike.
This comment made me smile 😅
b r u h
Broke down crying lmao.
Thanks for the video, very helpful, very clear voice, no profanity used, subscribed, never ashamed of the Gospel, love it.
Hi dear!
I am Prasad 64, from India. Recently through my son, I too process a car. I wanted to replace most of the old generation bulbs in the indian built car. Your video taught me so many interesting things about car lighting. Hope with these fundamentals, I can proceed further. Thanks a lot.
Oh THAT"S how you get those overhead map lights out!! THANK YOU! Been trying to figure it out for years!
I agree man! I bought a pack of 30 green led (194s) for my 1971 C/20 Chevrolet. About a yr later I started getting a flicker from random LEDs that I installed. I've added a few autometer gauges that offer led upgraded bulb replacements. They were way more expensive, about $15 each. Butt wow, they've lasted twice as long, no issues, no problem or flicker thus far
I've had similar problems. I replaced them with the newer style 4014/3014 bulbs. I think yours are 3535, these bulbs also have resistors built-in them to avoid hyper flashing or canbus errors. One has to bear in mind that these bulbs are evolving quite rapidly as opposed to the old style tungsten/halogen bulbs which were unchanged for almost a 100 years. Thank you for sharing your findings.
LEDs won't heat up but resistors will heat up if they're included in the circuitry. There are better ways to deal with hyper flashing than installing heat-dissipating resistors. The other day on Amazon I saw some of these LEDs drawing 0.5 watts. That's zero point five watts or less than a watt.
Diode Dynamic bulbs are one of the best and have a 3 year warranty. Sylvania 194's are a great product as well.
Have you tried their led headlights if so how do you like them
Sylvania Zevo leds are amazing I have them for all my outside lights and inside lights on 2 different trucks and have had them installed for several years now
Did you have any fast blink or bulb error issues with the bulbs used for the blinker function?
Well... I WAS going to order the LED bulbs to replace my map lights and others in the Nissan Titan until I stumbled upon your post. THANK YOU!!!!
I will now order the correct ones for my truck
Andrew
Solution for the square plugin...take a hobby file, gently taper the plugin end to a slight v, the sides are ellectricaly connected thru the via's on the board (small gold holes) and the tiny bit on the very end won't matter...but will make it 100x easier to insert
Thanks for the video and link!!!!
From Amazon. JDM Astar. Bright. No shorts. Backup lights, cargo lights. 2 years. Love them.
Jeff Collins wow I just or them and they are nice
I have jdm astar on my 2017 wrx for about 2 years now and i have had no issues. Bright, work, last.
I agree I got my headlight bulbs 9006 style from them installed in September 2016 still going strong. I also got the flat all solid state state 194 bulbs from them for the interior so far no failures
JDM reverse lights, Yorkim internal and tag lights. All fine 2 years too.
Im using lasfit works amazing looks great and high quality feels better than jdmastar
I been having the sealight for 2 and a half years with no problem at all, live those LED’s
I love car videos, and I’ve been watching a lot of yours lately, but the ending just makes me want to watch even more. 🙌🏼
Got some for my plate lights and reverse lights for my '08 Endeavor. Still working great
I use those Sylvania 194 bulbs in my conversion van and love them. They have not let me down for the last year and a half and still going strong. They're pricey but looks like a lightbulb rather than a circuit board. I still kept one incandescent in one lamp for warmth. One thing I would never do is modify any of my lampholder to accommodate odd shape bulb. If it don't fit, I don't use them and move on to looking for other options. You would not have had to modify any of your lamps with those Sylvanias.
Hey, I hope you might be able to help me or point me in the right direction, I have an 1980 chevy van that I have done a partial restore on, engine, trans. Lighting, and such,, my problem is that when turning on my blinkers they both flash, in fact all of my exterior lighting flashes except head lights,,,, ??
@@stevegalchutt9201 - If I understood you correctly, it sounds like you have a 3 way flasher. That is front and back flash the same time and side markers interval flashing in conjunction to front and back while using hazard. GM used them. If your turn signal works on appropriate side, you should be fine.
@@cheath8705 how are the LED lights holding up?
@@rendiewmit86 - They still works for the last 4-5 years and going strong. I only used then for the interior lighting. One of them gets used a lot and still works.
@@cheath8705 thanks. I'm looking to replace the map lights (T10) and some lights (T15) in my wife's pt cruiser convertible. I've heard some have issues with the cheaper bulbs. Thinking about trying the ones you mentioned.
i have used the flatones for 1 year now and i have not been needing to replace one yet and still going strong.
Nice!! I like to hear that.
Especially appreciate that you showed how to remove the map lights, how to reinstall the door courtesy light -- I need an a to z where and how-to on removing interior lights so don't BREAK them!! Thanks for video, informative and very helpful!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I went with little more expensive ones from a longstanding well reviewed brand. 2 years so far no fit or function issues.
Don't cheap out on LEDs of any kind, like you note they aren't all made equal.
The main issue with a lot of the older bulbs (and some new ones) is that the manufacturer used the cheapest LED's they could get away with. They then overdrive them to make the light brighter than they're rated for. And that's why you get the excess heat and high failure rate. Or if you're lucky the bulb lasts a while, but the heat gradually damages the LED's and changes the color tone a bit
Well said
this is true in every led-driver electronic devices
You should google datasheets on leds and electrical parts look for 1 with different tempretures but yes i have seen a few at 20-30 deg c perfectly cooled some can last 25 years , 30 - 40 - 10years 45deg- 5 years . dont qoute me on this but look for data sheets
Went with known brand name Philips. Definitely not the brightest and tend to pinpoint rather than flood for running light which disappointed. I did notice these sealight leds. Quite honestly the low price sent me packing. Look into Ludyn. Not cheap much like your dud bulbs in shape but at price for Ludyn one might anticipate better build quality.
One thing no one mentions when you go to LED's (mine at least) needed a different relay for lower operating voltage. This fast indicator symptom might be causing these heat problems. Just a thought. Thanks for video Sealights look interesting no question.
@@Richibald1 No it is caused by replacement bulbs having a lower wattage they are not drawing enough electrisity therefore your car thinks a bulb has blown and therefore it hyper flashes to inform you that the bulbs are not working properly.
We use LED bulbs (the 6 volt versions generally) in pinball machines. We have lots of failures of the LED bulbs due to vibration. Plus some are dead right out of the package. Sometimes, we revert back to incandescent bulbs on some machines because we don't have many problems with incandescents.
Sounds like total crap to me incandescent bulbs have 4-5% of the lifespan of an LED.
Nice video, For interior i make my own bulbs, works longer then 6 years already, but I always have the problem with tail led bulbs they never bright enough for my car
I used seriusLED flat 194 on amazon. I like them because you don’t have to trim anywhere to fit the bulbs. And they fit in the license plate
They look great with black or gray interiors, but I changed back to regular bulbs in my light tan leather Grand Cherokee. They made my tan interior look like crap at night. I've also had many of them fail in my other two cars, but regular 194s failed sometimes too
JDM Astar works, super bright. got some amber leds for my turn signals on my 2001 Chevy Suburban C1500
Did you have any issues with brake lights just all of a sudden stop working with the LED turn signal bulbs installed?
Thanks Jimmy for being up front honest about your video. What you do know is that the bulbs you tried in the past didn't work so you are trying something different. Also you are asking for feedback on a subject that isn't covered. You have started a conversation, that needed to be started. I read many of the comments and they vary from very helpful to sarcastic. I like a person that has the courage to ask for help, so I subscribed.
The new bulbs you purchased are definitely the way to go... for two important reasons. I had those types with the thin wires as contacts to the socket. What I experienced were dimmed lights after the normal 15 - 30 secs most vehicle allow after exiting the car. Due to the poor connectivity and shielding, any residual current caused the bulbs to remain in.. ever do slightly. The residual current is normal in cars and is not enough to light up factory halogen bulbs. Some suggested using the resistor technique to eliminate dimming, but I first researched different designs. The design that eliminated the dimming, are the ones you switched to. The metal ( or whatever it is) shields the residual current picked up by the little wires of the first led set you showed. The second reason is simple the build, more solid and the thicker base (I found) makes a more secure connection. Bottom line they just seat better than the wiggly older led types. Great video btw 👍
Loved the way your presentation ended great video thank you. Jack
Have you seen the "RGB 194" versions of these bulbs, quite a bit longer than the original but would fit in the door perfectly.
As the name suggests these can have their colour changed by remote, and even better be made to flash (saves last mode after power off) good as a safety flasher when doors get opened.
I use lasfit led bulbs. They use the same flat blade bulb for the 168/194 bulbs. Very bright and have been working for close to a year now without problems. Little pricey but very well made. Good video.
Love your videos man, i still have yorkims from your first led video. They all still work just fine, did them shortly after your video, with the modifications needed to make them fit.... keep them vidoes coming man!
The first LED you showed looked like a 912/921 bulb rather than a 194. They both have the same base, but a larger filament end more commonly used as a back-up bulb.
Jimmy you DO have your priorities in order my friend. Enjoy the videos.
very rerefreshing
I replace my interior dome light with an LED a year or so ago, and, man, has it made a big difference! I work out of my car and often need to flip it on at night (while parked, of course). The brighter, whiter light helps a ton. It's like the Sun shining in through a hole in the roof, good stuff. My next step is to replace the anemic reverse lights (or maybe wire up a light bar, instead).
Thank you for the heads up on these led bulbs !! They'll fit 4 of my vehicles 👍👍 and for all your vids you post !!
Great Comparison! I'd like to install in the gauge cluster, but still need the ability to use the dimmer as well, so they aren't Eye Piercing bright. Did you by chance do a test to see how they do while using the dimmer function of the light switch?
Thanks Jimmy! Going to have to check some of those LEDs out.
A lot of practical information but not a whole lot of technical information. Thank you for sharing
Silvania led bulbs work pretty well and the quality is great, I’ve had the cool white and super bright versions and their the same size as the originals, I’ve had them for 2 years now on my 01 Chevy Silverado
I switched all of my 99 Jeep Cherokee interiors bulbs to LED last year and still no issues. Just nice and bright and easy to find stuff at night. I also did the reverse lights and license plate light. I did do the brake lights and turn signals but had to switch them back as one was causing flicker. I'm fine just having the reverse lights as LED's making visibility great. I have the One Way Light brand from Amazon.
I think they make in-line adapters (resistors?) that can help reduce or eliminate flickering by smoothing out the power supply.
They are called LED Equalizers and they stop "hyper flashing". AutoZone carries them
@@ChrisMartinScruffy Nice. Easy enough to grab some there.
I'm about to do this with my 06 Wrangler. The back-up lights have infuriated me since I bought the thing in 06 and I can't believe I've waited so long. So you've had them in for awhile now...still doing okay with them?
@@angieemm Yes. No issues.
1 Road - Appreciate the video! Have you by chance run across any "warm light" LED upgrade options, in the same "wafer" thin design seen in the video? Not really into the super bright blue-ish LED's currently saturating the market, especially for interior lighting. Actually, someone really needs to come out with a interior LED map light upgrade that can cycle between "warm white" and "red Light"!! Rather surprised no one has done this yet...
THIS! I am currently upgrading all my interior lights in my 1997 GMC K2500 Suburban from the incandescent halogen bulbs to LEDs. I find the bright white/xenon white too harsh, and have gotten headaches/migraines from the household LED light bulbs that are the 'daylight' color. I use GE Reveal bulbs in my house. However, the warm white LED bulbs for car interiors are a nice, warm shade of white, without being too yellow. I found LED dome lights with the right warm white, but am still searching for the map light LEDs. My map light bulbs are actually 168, not 192. I know a 192 bulb will work though.
@@b.j.wheeler-hikes - It is a bit frustrating how so many after market interior automotive LEDs produce such harsh white light + there’s the electrical system compatibility issues w/dimming, flickering and turn signal LEDs that flash crazy fast…lol. I’ve returned more automotive LEDs over the yrs than any other consumer product. That said/on a side note, couldn’t help but notice the coincidence re your initials, I’ve actually gone by the same initials all thru childhood/most of my adult life, aside from formal situations. All the best and thx for posting the info re the LEDs.
Enjoy your vids I have an 05 suburban that I’m trying to keep running and looking good. Going to try these LEDs
Going to take your advice and I ordered some. Thanks for your information. I also have been having issues with the LED's I have bought in the past and not lasting long or not fitting.
I've had these Sealight 194 bulbs installed in my 2005 Chevy Malibu Maxx for over a year now and I can safely say that they are a huge upgrade from the other 194 LEDs you've shown. One of my favorite differences - the Sealight bulbs don't care about polarity! The crappier 194 LEDs need to be installed with the proper polarity otherwise they won't light up - the extra circuitry that's visible between the contacts takes care of the polarity preference that LEDs have on their own. Very, very useful feature when installing a large number of bulbs - nothing is worse than plugging them in, reinstalling your trim, then realizing you've got the polarity wrong! The Sealight LEDs are the closest things I've seen to direct replacement for 194 incandescents on the market thus far. Great summary video!
You mean you don't test them before reassembling the trim?!
Does this along with the "polarity" part of your comment show me how valuable your opinion really isn't? Yes, I do believe it does.
But at least you didn't say you drilled out the housings to make them fit like this video yutz did!
@@tomnovak7731 Man, I hope you have a better day, Tom. Must be having a rough one to lash out in the comments section of a CZcams video. Take it easy, friend.
I've done a few teardowns of these cheap LED bulbs, and more often than not I always find the same common problem with them: small 1/4-watt resistors that become scaldingly hot the moment 12 volts are pumped through them. These basically act as heating coils that slowly roast the LED chips to death.
On the PCB bulbs, the 3 resistors in between the connectors (see 4:19) are there only to draw more current (and thus creates extra heat) in order to satisfy bulb monitoring systems.
If you use the bulb in a not monitored position, you can desolder them (or snip them off with sharp sidecutters) to reduce current draw/heat generation - or buy the same style bulb, but ones that don't claim to be CAN-bus safe/compatible to start with...
@@michaeltempsch5282what would you be snipping off exactly?
Snip (or solder off) the resistors going directly between the connector terminals on the bulb (not in series with the LEDs)
Their only purpose is to increase the current draw from the car, hoping to satisfy any bulb monitoring function.
Without them the LED bulb draws less current and the car, expecting the draw of an incandescent bulb, might think the bulb is out.
I purchased these on Amazon for my Corvette so far they work and fit well.
Great presentation. Problems I have are a much newer car like my 2012 Mini Cooper has a computer that does not like the LED's. So, everytime I crank the Mini it will give me the warning sound and bulb light on the console. I can live with that. So far, 4 months later none of the bulbs have failed. At night I can light up the interior, change the ambient color and it is bright enough to have a disco party!! LOL!!
Sylvania osram and Philippines make some of the best when it comes to OE led replacements
got osram led's here, well impressed,over a year later they still work fine
Philippines is really stepping up their game in technology.
I have Osram headlights in 7 Peterbilt, kenoworth dump trucks and still fine
Ideally, the LED should align exactly with the filament of the conventional bulb so the light is properly focused by the reflector. I noticed the bottom LEDs put all their light through the holes of the reflector. Maybe you could have had more light.
I did my 92 suburban and after only 2 or 3 months one headlight was out on low beam. So much for buying the cheapest ones I could find. Now I have to start all over again. They are not the easiest to get to, not like the 2001 yukon. Thanks for the info on better led's.
I’ve got 10 of the “newer” board style 194’s spread over three vehicles, none have failed. For backup/tail/turn signals, the brand Luyed has been great. I’ve also got one pair of SeaLight LED headlight bulbs in our Ford Ranger; again, no problems. The maker of this video is correct, there’s a ton of cheap junk out there; guess I just got lucky with Luyed & SeaLight. I can’t overstate how great the change is with new LED interior lights, literally like night & day. Cheers, safe motoring.
Had issues with all the eBay unknown brand LEDs that I’ve bought. Switched to Osram and Philips T10 LEDs for a little more money and they’ve been solid. I also thought the color on these branded ones were more visually pleasing as they are close to, if not actually, neutral white (not too cool and not too warm).
I don't know about automotive Osram bulbs, but I have had a lot of Osram E27 bulbs fail on me.
The Chinese ones FAIL. Go with Sylvania LED's. Yeah,they are expensive.
@@ddd228 - At a $1 a bulb (as stated in the video) think I'll roll the dice in favor of the less expensive LED wafers and if they fail, I'll switch over to the higher priced name brands.
Orly, Jr. Palomar bought LED for my wrx from eBay and works perfectly. Got buy LED bulbs with good reviews.
Panasonic led bulbs come with a 12 year warranty and have never let me down once!
colintx800 would you happen to have a link to where you purchased them? I love Panasonic products and searched and could not find any Panasonic led auto lights. Thanks!
@@petersuarez651 @Peter Suarez If you go on Amazon or eBay and type philips X-tremeVision LED they will come up. I use the 8000k which have a hint of blue but they also come in 4000k and 6000k Hope that helps :)
That's because you're the Terminator. They know what happens when you come back.
I used iBrightstar for my dome and map lights and soon license plate lights and they are cheap but good quality and are still going with no problems at all
@@BigBlock632 Yes and they are still working 😁😁
I've had sealight bulbs in my old Toyota Camry. They worked awesome! I also bought led headlights from the same company and havent had any issues so far. Hope everything goes as good with you as it did for me
@@parma-sean no damage so far. Even though they have a fan less design they have never overheated or caused me any issues. There's brighter lights out there like the brand fahren that makes some pretty decent lights for a great price. Might wanna give them a look too. I would recommend either about the same
@@parma-seanyou’re one of those people 🤮
I use LED Tops. They seem good, as I have had them in all my Ram truck lights for a year. The interior courtesy lights are awesome, with a remote for about 20 different colors.
Smooth! On to something that really matters in life...yes I was listening,watching...cool brother..amen.
I’e also had no issue with Phillips/Sylvanias
Me neither. 3 years and no failures with Sylvania bulbs.
I bought a pack of 18 Auxbeam 194 bulbs that are made like these. Been using them for parking and tag lamps. Six months, still work great, and I have plenty of spares. Was 12 bucks on Amazon.
Another factor is your vehicle's circuitry. Even though Amazon said an led bulb would replace the interior bulbs on my Tacoma, which it did, it didn't work at all. I found out that certain year Tacomas have a different resistance value in the interior light circuitry. A fix was to install certain value resistors in the circuit which I chose not to do. I installed some battery powered led puck lights with Command strips and now my interior is very brightly lit.
I'd probably stick with the classic incandescent until they get some out with a warmer color temperature. The ones in this example are still too blue. (Technically they should be available, but what's on the shelves varies still.)
pauljs75 I drive a modern BMW and At first I thought the interior lighting was incandescent because it was warm. But I noticed they’re all just warm LEDs. Warm interior lighting reduces eye strain.
A number of LED brands do have both warm and cool white available. Just have to be careful with the un-named ones, they tend to be different color temperature than what the labeling states...or actually have multiple color temperatures listed in the specs without having different models available.
Prefer the warmer light as well! Someone really should make/invent replacement LED map lights that cycle from warm white to RED!! Rather surprised nobody has done this yet!
I've had the LED get so hot that the solder joints liquified and the LEDs fell off. I was using them in camper lights
You made a very good quality video and so I did hit that like button. Though admittedly I wasn't going to hit subscribe because I am already subscribed to SO MANY channels. But then you end with "...and now on to something a little more important." with you Bible out. And now I am subscribed to you channel. Thank you for shining your light.... and for showing us those really good LED replacement bulbs. Cheers and God Speed
Jim, I converted almost all of my lights to led, my dash stars to flicker, is the similar bulb with black one you showed in the vid, 4:47. This is great lesson! I really need to know what make and style is really good and lasts long time.
I have 99 GMC Suburban k1500 and 98 Chevy Blazer ls. Most are already converted to LED.
Best part of the video, last 4 seconds. 😎
David Chenault definitely
True. God bless you, Jimmy. Good channel.
One thing to note about LEDs, they are diodes. They behave different electrically than an incandescent bulb. If you expect the LED to dim from a controller, they may behave very differently than the original incandescent bulb. If the original bulb has one brightness-level (for example, function is just an "on/off" -type of light), you will have no problems with a good quality LED mentioned below or in the video. Dimming of LEDs can be a major concern for retrofits... It just depends on the dimming circuit.
One MUST be sure the (LED) light source lands in the same place the incandescent filament would be .
To short or long and engineered focus will scatter the light instead of the designed collimation .
Good layman's video , Thanks.
Good video I like how you point out the flaws and changes that have occurred. One thing I've noticed in the specs more, having aluminum vs composite pcb board along with the aluminum shell. As mentioned you still want to see how it's built/designed as much as possible as you can't always trust reviews. The led itself getting a led by cree vs epistar 5050, 2528 etc.. is often not the concern rather the board it's built on and the other components. If you find quality ones then it's down to a few +&- with the led's are they on the top, sides and lumes of each. For example the ones coming out of the reading lamps. they had leds on the ends and sides direct and reflected light. Where as the replacements were on the sides and only bounce off the reflectors. Which in this case looks more normal in say a backup light you may want ones on the ends in addition.
I have an 01' tahoe. I put leds in brake lights when I put it on the road. Then I discovered this was why the cruise didn't work. It needed to see resistance in brake light circuit.
Same happend to me on my yukon, it worked then it stoped working at times. Also my leds while braking wasnt bright enouth. So I put reg bulbs back on.
U need lights with canbus... Led taillights with canbus... Then you'll be fine
I've used JDM's for 3 years now. NEVER had an issue with them.
I have sealight headlights and they have lasted very well so far (6 mos)
What I really like about them is that haveva really heavy duty heat sink, and its a passive system, so no moving parts, or fans to fail.
So far I'm very happy with them
Nice video thanks for taking the time to shear! It was very helpful!
Oh yeah, my car also feels much newer now for sure!
Phillips led bulbs are so nice and last long time
Been using them for 5 years, managed to convert my whole car to LEDs, none has failed so far!
Phillips, one of the top brands!
I went with a 15 piece kit from eBay for $10. Only negative was that it took 1 month. Still strong after a year in and out of storage
Yeah I've had good luck with led but i can see how they would get to hot in that plastic under the sun in the dash. But now those new ones i think will work fine and i am going to try them. Thanks for the link
"Something that really matters". You are so right.
I gotta say, I like the LED's in the dash, but I still prefer the warmer light of the old incandescent bulbs. LEDs in the cabin feel like the fluorescent lighting in Office Space ...lol.
Yes, those interior shots made me cringe. So sterile and bright. That screws with your eyes after a while. Incandescent for interior all the way. It has a natural feel.
2700 Lumens are warm like the old incancersent
I have changed my interior and daylight bulbs with those color changing led's. At nighttime its sometimes pleasant to have red light in the car for reading.
One idea I have is to make my own LED lights. Starting with the inside lights and aux lights with the common LEDs you can find, then moving on to signal lights if I can find brighter leds.
What about all the smaller backlighting bulbs that illuminate gauges, switches, and the radio? In my 06 Silverado, my headlights auto on more than I’d like due to probably a slightly faulty light sensor, but anyways the buttons on the radio get so so hot from those incandescent bulbs. Is there an led option for those?
That's a very good question. I'm gonna look into that.
I sent my instrument cluster and auto AC control off to a rebuilder on ebay for my 06 Sierra, since they had to be soldered in. They were able to replace the bulbs with different colored LEDs that are dimmable like stock. They look really good, but it was around $160 for both pieces to be done, and I had to pay shipping to get to them. They even offer a warranty and sent their business card to me in case I had any issues after the sale. Personally, I feel it was worth it. There are sellers that offer DIY kits too for just about any bulb in the dash, switches, or controls in different colors for cheaper if you're handy with a soldering iron.
I'm rebuilding them.
@@1RoadGarage Great video with good info!
Have you figured out a good replacement for the engine compartment bulb mounted under the hood? I have yet to find a sealed BA15S base bulb at a reasonable price. I was thinking of rewiring and installing four LED Daytime Running Light COB Panels wired to a switch which would provide much more light over a larger area in comparison to the single location incandescent.
Also, if you has used the flat LED's shown in your video to begin with, would you have had to modify the door courtesy lights?
@@michaelwaters5168 Check on Ali Express, there are 144led types that are sealed units with load resistors built in. They are the brightest I've seen thus far and costs are about $3 each. I've bought them a few months ago and have had no issues since. If you need, I can send you the link. Good luck with your project.
Love the ending of this Video ✝️
Amen to that.
I'm gonna try them on my '99 'Burban. My wife uses the map light a lot, and would appreciate the brightest whiter light. I do have some backlighting bulbs out, will have to check them out.
2 problems with LEDs. 1. They are over driven which in return blow the IC or blow the led. 2. Lead free solder. Lead free solder cannot take vibration which causes the solder joints to crack.
overdriven..yes, get more light from a cheap or undersized chip...lead free, that's becoming a huge issue for military equipment.
agreed, ( enf n ROHS!! ) . . . another issue if your upgrading to LED lamps for signaling, Mfgs have added a low ohm resistor in the circuit so the LED lamps can blink w/same timing as with incandescent lamp(s), because the mechanical turn signal relay uses a bimetal that heats up to work, ~3 amps or more/bulb , so no real energy savings + they are expensive...
100% agree lead free solder has no place in automotive anything. 63/37 kester for the win.
@@robozstarrr8930 only the older cars have mechanical flashers, the rest are all electronic and can spit bulb out errors with the low load of LED's....
yep, over driven and lack of substrate, which provides cooling. people don't listen when I tell them no don't bother unless you pay for higher end items, even then it's a crap-shoot.
problem is, standard "filament" bulbs have been so "cheapified" they don't last either, nothing does in fact.
planned obsolescence at it's finest, whilst the top pyramid fat cats make big $$$. all us peons get hosed whilst China and every other country ALL of the production went to wins ten fold. #WINNING?
Well.. A free advice.
If you want some really quality led bulbs, then look for those who have voltage stabilizer. They usually came with load resistors to match the original consumption of the original bulb that you are about to replace. So... you end up with a really good light and with good led bulbs that will last a decade.
Diode dynamics are the only ones I use and trust. Used them on the license plate , cargo , 3rd brake light, and interior on my 15 Ram . 5 years running strong.
I've had by Diode Dynamics 194's for over 5 years and they're as good as day 1.
cool i may buy some oh wait Amazon don't ship to Australia!
www.aliexpress.com/item/2x-Canbus-T10-Orange-Led-Car-Light-Canbus-W5W-t10-Led-168-194-3030SMD-White-Door/32861211375.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.72774c4doX71dF here you can buy these from ali already
Get Zevo LEDs. Great quality and lifetime warranty. Those are made by Osram.
Plug and play application, just like replacing a incandescent bulb.
Osram is not a brand, it's an organization. Search it and read it.
LED bulbs also attract less bugs, flies, insects. Keep up your excellent research and reporting. I definitely like the white light. The white light is much brighter and looks more like natural sunlight. God Bless, Prost
Your Suburbans look great inside and out .Kudos!Cheers from Canada
Sylvania zevo. Pricey, little less light. I have ones going for years
Tyler Eifert same here!
Same here. It's higher price but it's been years in my car almost forgot how they look like
Same, 4 years with them. Have switched cars twice and moved them with me, still working. Lifetime warranty with them too.
Same! The Phillips bulbs seem to be good so far ... I’ve had some almost 2 years now.. no flickering or dead bulbs yet but yes there pricey$$$$. The 194 wedge led bulb is even the same dimensions as the glass incandescent ones. I currently use them for side running lights and license plate lights.
I have tried Zevos, but they cost just a little shorter of a Philips LED, and are (way) dimmer.
Go for the Philips, they're just better overall, light output is FANTASTIC, most of the philips will obey the focal point of a traditional incadescent bulb, so they won't glare other drivers even if you use them outside.
I have been using them since they came out, It's been 5 years now, and my WHOLE CAR uses philips (headlights, tail lights, license plate, the whole interior), and NONE has failed so far!
Bless you man! I love Jesus!
Great vid. Love the ending.
I have a Chevrolet 2003 suburban and I replaced all of the lights to led but the LEDs I installed I built to my liking so they are very bright and they look great.
I’d like to see an update on the light output in one month or how they hold up, thanks
Dan Bailey most decent phone have light sensors
What I often notice with LED bulbs is that the LED series resistors are chosen too small - so get the LED's a higher current and burn through it sometime faster.
I am a hobby electronics technician since I was 7 years old. But I've been a trained electronics technician for energy and building technology for 15 years.
I've soldered together an LED bulb for the interior lighting of my car myself. I have deliberately calculated the series resistors for operation at 15V because the on-board voltage can quickly rise to around 14V with the engine running. This self-made replacement bulb has been in the car for almost 10 years without any breakdowns.
On the board there are 16 LEDs, which are interconnected in 4 rows. Each series circuit also has its own series resistor. The power consumption is about 1W. The power loss on the resistors is so low (0,013W) that they heat up only slightly.
But what you can do against destroyed bulbs:
Connect a varistor directly parallel to the battery to prevent voltage spikes. Because I also had problems with often failed low-beam lights. Since I've installed the varistor, the bulbs last almost 2 years and longer.
I also had a car hi-fi system built in with two 1F capacitors. The power amp was a Mac Audio ZX4500 Black Edition with 4x125W / 2x300W RMS at 4 ohms. The power amp was able to pull up to 900W from the electrical system. 3x 25A fuses in the power amp itself and a 80A ANL fuse on the battery. The alternator was designed for a load current up to 120A.
The sound pressure was a few years ago when measured on a dB-drag event in the "Bass race" at 138dB. That was definitely more than enough. I've installed two JBL GT 4-12 Woofers (250W RMS each) in one sealed Box, but separated to each other (2 Chambers) to drive them in stereo. The other 2 Channels were used for two PA-Tweeters with a Power handling of 250W RMS each. I choose the sealed Box because of the relatively linear Frequency response before it goes down. And depending on JBL's schematics and technical data only in the sealed Box the Woofers can be driven at their full RMS Power of 250W without overheating. Actually i use this selfmade-Box at Home in my 7.2Ch Home-Cinema System.
I had paid attention to crystal clear and possible distortion-free audio output. Without the Capacitors the lights are slightly flickering, with the capacitors nothing flickers.
It was an Opel Astra G-CC from 2003.
Despite the additional installations, everything worked flawlessly.
I put resistors on my truck headlights, but I'm still having issues.
been going threw your channel noticed few views from past searches and good informative videos so I subbed today👍
Thanks!
A very nice informational video with good editing. Thank you.
I changed to LEDs the first week I got my new car, back in 2011. And back then, there wasn't so much of a variety of LED equivalents to chose from.
So I did my own thing and made custom LED lights for all the interior housings, using LED tape.
Cut to length pieces, stick 'em on a piece of cardboard, small wires for the connections, and 2019......all my interior lights still work perfect, no heating issues, and they turn on and off thousands of times whenever I open and close the doors. Just passed the 100.000 mile mark, and nothing to worry about.
It's an Idea I can safely recomend. Although, it requires a bit more involvement to it, and soldering and all.......but I think the end result is worth it.
You have interiour lights that literally never burn. Problem solved!