How to Build a Gravel Driveway...The Right Way!
Vložit
- čas přidán 2. 11. 2021
- Titan Attachments Box Blade: amzn.to/3NqzY7X
Rancher Supply Box Blade: amzn.to/3NqFo2L
^^^Not used in video
Visit our Amazon Affiliate Store: www.amazon.com/shop/indyfarmlife. This storefront provides links to many of the products we use around the farm.
Disclaimer: We participate in affiliate marketing programs and we may receive a small commission for any purchases made through the above links. There is no upcharge to you for this service. We appreciate your support!
#GravelDriveway #GravelRoad #CompactTractor - Jak na to + styl
This video helped to finally convince my fiance to let me buy a tractor and build our driveway myself! I've been at him for over a year now saying we can do it, and he's all for getting the professionals in, which will cost more than a new tractor and the materials combined. So thank you! Time to go tractor shopping
Awesome! If you have a driveway that big, chances are you have acreage that necessitates having a tractor. Give me a shout if you have any others questions as you work through things. Good luck and have fun!!
Wow! Now that's a woman who knows how to keep and maintain her household. Both physically and financially.
You definitely have a keeper there Mr. Fiancé
Roll your sleeves up and get some!
Words at the end are quite encouraging. I’m just starting to clear the ‘grass’ in the open farm field we bought with a rented skid steer. $250 per 8 hours - straight up. I’ve never driven on one before and i wonder if I’m making more of a mess than getting any real work done. I definitely have sand for soil. It’s t least 8’ deep. So all sand. I’m honking that I need a dump trailer to move the top grass I’m digging to another spot on the property. Anyways… I’m not giving up. Your video is very informative. Thanks. I subscribed to your channel
i've watched so many videos and this was the first i saw that laid things out so succinctly. Thank you!
I'm glad it was helpful! Feel free to subscribe and stick around! :)
Videos like this are awesome, simple, to the point, very clearly explained
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this fantastic explanation! I can now understand WHY our gravel road isn’t what I expected and what needs to be done to get it right. You’ve got a new subscriber here!
I'm glad it was helpful! Happy to have you along for the ride!!
You should have more viewers on here this is great information you're showing the down and dirty all the way this is great thank you
Thank you Robert. I'm happy to share! I wouldn't turn down more viewers. Feel free to share with anyone you know who may have interest. I love the community aspect of all this. Appreciate you stopping by.
Great information! I do gravel road maintenance here in my area and on a well established road as yours I have found that it is not necessary to keep bringing in new gravel every time. Especially if you are not losing it to the ground.
What you need is to scar the surface, churn the gravel and re-grade it. A proper box blade with scarafiers can save you a lot of money on gravel.
And you should be scarring the ground anyway before adding new gravel so that it is not just laying on hard pan.
Great Video! Very simple explanation! Thank you!
You're welcome. Best of luck with your build.
Thanks for the tips. I'm building a driveway now up a mountain. Got a quote and the guy wanted to leave the top soil and put down fabric. I'm doing it myself instead, removing the top soil. He came by and told me I was doing it wrong, but this makes more sense to me. Plus saving big money
Glad I could help! Yes, get that topsoil out of there! Will save you headaches and stone down the road....and down your driveway ha
We use Basalt in Oregon because half the state is volcanic lava.Had to use fabric when the driveway was put down but I only paid $381 for a full truck load of 3/4 minus yesterday for only the second time in 24 years and we have three quarry's all within 4 miles of our property.
Some great info here! Thanks!!
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful! Hope to see you around the channel!
This is a *really* great tutorial, thank you
You are welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing. These videos help a lot.
Glad they were helpful! Best of luck with your project!
All good advice. I've skipped the #2 for expanding a driveway/parking area because it's harder to spread... and it worked because I spread it thick, but a better base would have been better just like you said. I never put 53s next to the front door or porch of a house because of the dust like you said. Great video!
Thanks! We have done the same thing before with skipping #2, but then you end up just putting more #53 down to achieve the same results. #53 dust is great, but can also be a mess for sure!
Legend.
Going through all this in the next few months, vid was great to watch.
Sub'd 👍
Thanks Roy! I hope it's helpful as you start your project. Good luck!
🇨🇦 Thanks! Such a helpful video! Just subscribed!
You're welcome! Glad to have you along for the ride!
Just did a video on moving my driveway and looking for suggestions. You answered a lot of questions I had. I will video my progress if I decide to move my driveway.
I'm glad I could be helpful! Best of luck moving it over!
Makes sense!! Great Video Adam!
Thanks! 👍
I have a small area at the beginning of my concrete driveways that I guess previously had gravel. It fills with water when it rains too much, too fast. I bought the home 4 years ago. I was 21. Was always too scared to attempt to fix it but also haven’t been able to save enough to pay someone. Thank you for this video!! I feel fairly confident that I can knock it out now.🙏🏼
How big is the area? Ideally you would have someone with a piece of equipment rip the potholes out. If not, just fill them in with some crushed gravel and you should be fine! Glad it was helpful!
I'm currently looking at property that would require 4000 linear feet for a new driveway. It's nice to know working on it myself is a real option. Thanks for the video!
Awesome thanks for the video. Im trying build mine up with shale then maybe 2 in rock. Under that is bigger almost like river rock. Hopefully it works.
Clay is hard when dry, but it's VERY soft when wet! Rocks push straight down into it.
I agree when fully saturated. The key here is to build your road so it sheds water. I would guess that most of the clay under my roads is dry.
Thank you good video!
Thank you! I hope it was helpful
Live and work in the southeast. Ga and Sc which in areas have red clay. Ga has the best I’ve ever seen. Put it in right and you can’t drive a stake into it. Almost never use fabric and I do this for a living. Good job and good video.
Thank you! I certainly appreciate the feedback from someone who does it often! Some have made the comment that when wet, clay is a mess. I agree with that comment but if you pack your stone in and have a crown, your clay underneath never really gets saturated!
Saying clay is hard and and excellent substrate because stone won’t penetrate is odd-
Clay is only hard when dry.
Once it’s wet, it turns plastic, soft, and slippery.
Stone will sink right into it.
I bought a house with a terrible gravel driveway on a hill. I had 20 tons of rock put over it and within a few months the driveway ate it. Back to mud again. You’d be surprised how much rock the ground will consume if not prepped correctly. It’s been all redone the right way now.
Glad you got it fixed properly!
Great video i will like to know how many inches of #2 #53 #8 gravel you used
I will agree with the statement about not needing geo-textile on clay - but with one caveat: only if it's well drained. I'm about to start a job for a client where the larger rock has been beaten down into the clay over time because water tends to stand in certain areas. Given enough time the clay softens up and you are in a similar mess to building on topsoil.
So my first step is always to look at drainage. Where is the water flowing? Where is the water sitting? Are there any soft spots from underground water? Then I can make a decision about using geo-textile.
That's a very good point. Water soaked clay can be an issue for sure. In all construction, water can be a huge headache.
@@IndyFarmLife agreed. Most of my work comes from people building first and thinking about water later - which is good for me, but it can be expensive to rectify.
The trucks with gravel that has fines mixed in can carry less volume because the gravel weighs more per cubic yard, and the trucks are limited by their weight limits. Drain and ballast rock has a lot of air space in each cubic yard, so each cubic yard weighs less.
I skipped the fabric on my 1000ft driveway as well. Scraped down to the clay, a layer of shale and then a layer of #2. Compacted the road between each layer. Once the house is finished we will put the finer rock in.
Nice! Should serve you well for years to come.
Great info! Unfortunately on our approx 700-800' driveway that is already prone to hold water, if i dig down to clay, I'm going to produce a creek and have to fill it up even more. I will have to use the fabric, but I'll follow the size of what you laid down for the layers. Great video sir!
Ahh water is always the X factor! Thanks for watching, I'm glad the info was helpful!
Great video, thanks! I'm looking to build a 12' X 125' driveway on hard flat (sandy/clay) ground. I planned on using geocell to stop the material from spreading and to keep ruts from forming. Am I wrong to use geocell for these reasons? Thanks again!
Around here we have limestone known as coral rock. It is an almost continuous layer of pourous rock thet varies from being at the surface to a few feet down. No clay at all or any topsoil. Sand is the material you find over rock. Some "soil" exists in the solution holes in the coral rock. After building a road the natural rock will start to break down as the weight collapses voids in the coral rock. One way of building a road here is to use a trencher or excavator to dig a ditch and then pile up the rock excavated before dozing your road. Want to build a road the right way? Just get the intelligent man from Indiana who knows how to use his tractor!
Hey thank you! That's good info to have. I suppose I should rename my video to "how to build a gravel driveway....in the midwest!" ha So cool to learn about other parts of the country and how it's done there.
Thanks for sharing and not being extra
haha you bet!
Great info! If you build your road on clay without the road fabric, when it rains, wont the clay absorb the water and become soft then tracks start to form? At my place, the clay develops a firm crust that holds up to light use. If you happen to break through that crust it can become bottomless underneath. The road fabric does a very good job of keeping the rocks and the clay separate as well as distributing the load a bit.
The key is to ensure that the road is sloped to shed water as well as have deep enough layers of each type of stone. Once you get a good base of #2 packed in, you aren't going to have it pressing down into the clay. The only way would be if you build your road/driveway so that water is constantly standing on it.
Very timely video. I'm building a house in Shirley IN, and was thinking I'd need geotextile but now I need to rethink that. Driveway will be 1260 feel long so lots of stone.
Being that close I would think you probably have some good clay to work with. If so, you may be able to cut out the fabric! Do you have a tractor or plan to rent something? Also, if you need an electrician let me know. The electrician who wired our house was amazing and lives very close to Shirley!
@@IndyFarmLife No tractor yet, will have the same guy put in the driveway, culvert and septic (mound system ... darn it, but required after perk test results). Thanks for the tip on the electrician, who is it?
HD Electric. Let me know if you want me to put you in touch with them.
If I’m wanting to put a portable barn 15x25 in my back yard, can I use the goetext and put gravel on top of that or do I need to take out the top soil so the gravel don’t sink?
You can really do it either way. One method is time/fuel, the other is buying and laying fabric
An alternative view would be to remove the topsoil first no matter the soil type. You always have topsoil with organic material. Follow this with a base layer of crushed stone with fines. In clay soil the crushed stone will bind with the clay and help stabilize it. Follow this with your larger 1.5" minus stone. Then add a top layer for smoothness if you like.
Good advice! When I first started reading your comment, I thought you were going to say "an alternate view would be to just pave/concrete it" 🤣🤣
cool
how much in cubic yard or cubic feet etc. of the 2, 53 and 8 per area or volume of road? does it work in northern climates where snow and temperature drops below 30 degrees for 4 months and snow does not melt until summer? how about toping the number 8 with True Grid? Thanks for sharing
Nice overview, thanks for the video! Ever consider a dirt road polymer enzyme for stabilization as well?
Thanks! No, I haven't, because honestly, I hadn't heard of it until you mentioned it!
@IndyFarmLife Its new in the USA, ranchers in Wyoming and Texas are starting to apply it. Looks like a tanker truck applies a spray to a dirt road and it binds like concrete. Surprisingly cost effective but never used it myself. It's on my radar for my properties though.
I have a question. I did a lot of prep made my whole driveway out of clay/chert material with 3% slope on each side of the crown and drainage ditches. When I lay the initial big rock layer down, should I try to keep the crown? I find it difficult to grade those big rocks.
Interesting. We are in process of having a pole barn built in central indiana. Will have to build a gravel drive 10-12’ wide and about 80-100’ long. Will be driving my pickup and a pull camper or 5th wheel on new drive.
Good luck with the build! Hopefully you have some good clay to work with.
@@IndyFarmLife Thanks!
Instead of number 8 to finish up I'd suggest asphalt millings... they tend to hold together better than the loose small gravels.
Changes the look though as well. I do have a layer of #2 asphalt millings as the main base for most of this.
Thanks for the video. I'm wondering how deep (thick) is each layer of the different type of gravel?
It really depends on how 'heavy duty' you want your road to be. I typically do the following. 4 to 6 inches of #2, 3 to 5 inches of #53, and 2 inches of #8. This would give you a road that should easily handle daily traffic as well as dump trucks and the occasional concrete trucks (when dry).
Surely even with a camber to drain the water away from your gravel ,it will still absorb water and take it down to the clay which will soften it and then the stone and rock will be pushed down into it.whereas if you have a physical barrier , you keep both seperate no matter what water seeps in. I have always used geo over clay ,as it will let the water thru without mixing the substrates together, and stopping the need to keep adding gravels.the wheels ruts that may from can be graded if you have a good 8 inches of gravel
I have no idea what the #2 is called in the PNW but the 53 is called 5/8ths (five eighths) where I live. The 5/8th he used would be called 5/8ths minus because you can also get clean 5/8ths. The minus is a binder and almost becomes like concrete. Sorta. Your kids friends doing donuts in your gravel driveway on their dirt bike and 4 wheeler will leave ruts.
Thank you for the well explained layering of your driveway! However, I see all your roads are flat. 🙂 How might you change anything if you were building up a 20-30% grade (about 200 yards uphill)? I have ample drainage on both sides of the road. Just wondered if you would change rocks or layering to retain gravel and minimize rutting on the slope.
I would say it depends on the intended use/type of traffic. If heavy trucks/tractors, I would maybe just leave it at #2. If a normal drive you may consider stopping after #53. The #8 may roll a bit like marbles on the surface
Only thing I didn’t pick up on was what thickness was each layer.
Hi, Great video, can I ask you why it seems that you only draw the fill in one direction? Is there a method to this, or was it just for camera angles?
Our driveway is 2700 ft @ 7' wide...it is a nightmare when we get rain and the snow removal all winter (JD 60" Blower) , plays havoc with the top substrate...any suggestions
Can you please specify the screen size on each of these materials used. #2 stone, #3 stone, #8 stone.
What is the screen size on each of these I’m up in Canada and the materials are all classed by screen size (in millimeters), we don’t have the same numbering system for rock size.
Thanks for the great explanation of everything! I am planning to build a 1/2 mile long driveway soon and I have been watching my friends argue over how I should do it while I stand there with the checkbook looking confused. I am thinking that my area in southern Ohio should probably get fabric...
Haha the man with the checkbook makes the call! Without knowing your ground it's hard to say. I would either go with fabric or go extra heavy with the base layer of #2. Getting it right from the start is the important part.
@@IndyFarmLife thanks for the reply! I pushed in part of the driveway yesterday and it is good clay soil, but we sidehilled some of it so I plan to just put fabric in
Nice! What machine are you using? Sounds like a dozer? What model? 🤗
@@IndyFarmLife yes, we are using a komatsu d37p. It's a little small for the job, but it was sitting next door and the guy said I could use it 😁
Thanks for the video. I’ve got a 38 horsepower John Deere tractor with a FEL. I don’t have a box blade but I do have a tiller. Do you think it would work to till up some soil and then remove it with the bucket? How many inches of soil do you think should be removed to create a bed for the gravel? Thank you!
That could work, but I think it would be pretty slow and difficult to shape. I guess it depends on how much ground you have cover. Around me, 6 inches or so and the top soil is typically gone. Looking for that good clay underneath.
how many inches of each stone layer do you lay down?
You need to put a crown in the road so the water drains. Otherwise, water will sit and cause problems.
Yes, I absolutely agree. Failed to mention that.
how deep should each layer of stone be?
What do you recommend for a driveway built on thin top soil over creek gravel. On top is thick vegetation. I’ve seen both geotech directly over the grass and the grass scraped off. It has to hold dump trucks, fire truck and general construction vehicles.
I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Without seeing it, I would think you would want all the muck/organic material pulled out and build it back from scratch. May have a rutted up mess otherwise.
Once cutting out topsoil have you placed down filldirt before placing stone?
Negative. Once I get down to the virgin clay, I start backfilling with #2 stone.
Do you have suggestions on how to fix the huge pot holes in my flat driveway?
Get yourself a box blade with scarifer teeth and rip them out. Then come back with the box blade and gravel and work to add a crown to the drive so that water doesn't pool. If you can get the water off your driveway, the potholes should stop.
I just need to drive my rear wheel Corvette 40 feet from slight incline, wet grass, to moderate incline past house onto street.
Thinking i can just spread gravel on textile and be ok for now. Then later pave it when i have money.
For a "get me by" solution that would probably work just fine.
@@IndyFarmLife Yes that is correct. I only have a thin layer of gravel on my driveway. About 1:00 to 1 and 1/2 layers of gravel which is inadequate however my car was able to drive right up the driveway I don't think I slid once at least I didn't realize it. So the reality is the Corvette for some reason with those wide tires, and summer tires at that, has superior traction going up the driveway then my cargo van even though both vehicles are rear wheel drive. The biggest issue I have with the Corvette is making a 90° turn to point the nose out but that has nothing to do with traction and everything to do with the fact that it's basically a race car and doesn't like fooling around. Either you're driving or you're not. Creeping forward and backwards and forward and backwards is a nightmare.
Well I bought myself a 4x4 truck for $3,000 and problem solved. Don't even need to pave the driveway. Lol
Thanks for the info! Love your box blade. I have a super cheap customer that lives in the woods and wants 1 single material spread on his driveway. Any suggestions on a material smaller than the #2?
Thanks! The Gannon is an absolute monster! Is this a new driveway build or dressing up an existing? I'm not sure if anything exists between #2 and #53, but if it were me, I would go with #53. Even if it were a new build. It will take a bit more thickness to build up for heavier traffic, but it's so easy to work with, will pack like concrete, and it's easy to get very smooth quickly.
@@IndyFarmLife thanks for the fast reply. Wasn't expecting that. Lol I would call this dressing something existing but a lot of it has never had any material at all put down. I think I'll go with the #53 like you suggested.
@@IndyFarmLife I've always wanted a Gannon but they seem to be impossible to find especially in the small size I would need. I do everything with an old economy power king (subcompact sized). Takes me a while but I enjoy it anyway.
Of course! I read all comments, respond to as many as I can! I think you/your customer will be happy with that solution. I do "53 only" roads where I know it will never again see a dump truck/concrete truck. Even then, it works out just fine if you layer it well. Hope you will stick around the channel. Thanks!
@@IndyFarmLife I certainly will stick around. Thanks again
Being a fellow Hoosier, I was curious of where you bought your Aggregate.
I always buy from Brookfield Sand and Gravel
@@IndyFarmLife Thank You Sir.
Question: What equiptment do I need if I don't even had any kind of road? I need to first create the road before I get to this stage. What is used to cut in a road?
Dozer.
Dozer or skid steer
after you have dug out at least the thickness of a car tire plus say 3 to 4 inches more, you lay your 2 stone, then get car tires and cut out the sidewalls of the tires,put the tires down on top of the 2 stone, then pour your gravel over the tires, the gravel being inside the tire will never spread out and the thickness will also be great for water to soak through and when you drive over it, it will pack down, you can drive a fully loaded dump truck over the drive way, you will never get a pot hole or ruts ever. and will last for years and years with no problems...
Does the driveway need any sort of slope to one or both sides for drainage? Or can it be pretty much flat? I have a flat piece of property and starting on a driveway
You definitely want some slope to it. Depending upon your ground it can be all one way, or have a crown in the middle to shed water. Keeping the clay underneath the stone dry is paramount. Having water run off will also prevent potholes from forming.
We don't have Clay we are pretty sandy. What type of fabric would you recommend?
You would be looking for a geotextile fabric. Google "geotextile driveway fabric" and you will have plenty to look through.
The driveway to my home was built in 2008. I have added gravel a couple times throught the years. I am guessing it is compacted and originally built in layers as described. It is all clay. My driveway is needing gravel. For maintenance, do I need to relayer? Or, just put another top layer on?
Hard to say without seeing it. Any idea what the base is built from? Unless it has a bunch of clay pushing up through it, I would likley just get a box blade and turn it all and add more gravel. Make sure it has a crown so that water doesn't stand on it.
I have solid clay subsoil. Use a Geo fabric on top of the clay then build up. Clay will suck up anything you put on top of it!
This might be a stupid question but if you cut a tree down to the point where it really doesn’t protrude out of the ground, would still remove it of your driveway?
If you were a contractor doing it for someone then, yes. If you leave it in your personal driveway, what's the harm? Well, eventually it will rot and cause a pothole/sinkhole that you will need to fix. You may also have trouble removing other topsoil in the area. However, you can certainly leave it. You just may have a fix to make later.
So I already layed down some crushed gravel and standard Lowes rock over grass. Is there anything I can do to improve this parking spot? Is it worth it to rent a compactor to make it stronger?
If you didn't pull up the topsoil then you are likely going to lose a lot of your stone as it presses down into it. I can't say it will be the most stable of parking areas. If it's just for light vehicles you may be fine, but if it were me, I would try to pull the gravel up and get that topsoil out of there. If that's not an option, just be prepared to add more gravel over the years. Vehicle traffic will compact it.
@@IndyFarmLife thanks so much for the tip. Right now the van that we park there sinks in to the rock but I haven’t packed it down yet so I’m assuming after we pack it down it will be more stable? Thanks again.
Recommendations for putting down gravel for a small semi truck and trailer parking lot, about a 1/3 of an acre? 5 to 6 inches of #2, then 2 to 3 inches of #53?
I have clay as a base, really hard to leave indentations. As someone else commented about putting down geo mesh, only if clay gets saturated. My lot is graded well…so rain runs off to sides. Thanks for the tips!
Given that you are going to have a lot of heavy, dead weight on your pad, fabric may not be the worst idea. You could probably get away without it if need be. I think cost would be the biggest consideration for me in this situation.
What about sand as a substrate? My town is built on sand. Once you remove the topsoil you just get down to pure sand.
Good question. That's not something I have ever dealt with. What do the local crews there do for roads?
Same here. The cloth works on sand fairly well.
can i just put clay on top of top soil for the base?
You would probably be better served to just go with fabric at that point.
What other terms have you heard used for 53s? For #8?
Sorry, should have started with this… Great video. I’m really thankful that you shared your knowledge! It is very helpful!
Thank you Ryan! I appreciate it!
Honestly, that's a good question. Even in Google that's tough to answer. It seems every state is different. Perhaps someone in the comments can weigh in on what they call it across the country? If you want to know in your area, I would call your local quarry and describe each to them.
I found it a bit surprising that there was no mention at all about the depth of each layer?
That's a very fair point! Your thickness will ultimately determine what kind of traffic you can have on your driveway/road. After topsoil removal, I typically put down 4 to 6 inches of #2, 3 to 5 inches #53 and then 2 to 3 inches of #8. If you do that (with good compaction between layers) you will have a road that will stand up to almost anything you can throw at it.
If I needed to hire company to do this, what kind of company should I be looking for?
I would search around for maybe a landscaping company or possible and land management company. If those guys don't do it, they will probably know someone who will.
@@IndyFarmLife Thank you!
I like your john deere! What size is it
2016 4052R
@@IndyFarmLife heck yeah!
You in the market for one?
@@IndyFarmLife I ordered one last month and just got word it'll be in next week. Super excited! I saw yours and thought that's exactly what I need
Nice! You will love it! Did you get a 4052R?
What about irrigation control?
Have it sloped/with a crown to push water off the surface. A ditch alongside of the drive may be necessary if you have a lot of watershed. Every situation is different.
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. @@IndyFarmLife
You must have different kind of clay. My place is clay. Gets wet. And any rocks on top dissappears.
Fabric? Use geocell
Get video. Thanks for providing so much details
Every load of dirt that looks light
Fair point!
Basically good information. But your clay must be dramatically different than our clay up here in NE Washington state. Given only a moderate amount of rain our clay turns to chocolate mousse and is undrivable. It also sucks up just about any kind of gravel you put on it. Geotextile is cheap insurance to absolutely prevent expensive gravel from sinking deeper into the mud.
This is dumb. Once it rains good, that clay will turn to mush. Very BAD advice!!
As long as you have a crown in the drive, you are good. I've been driving on it for 6 years now and have had more than 20 concrete and quad axle dump trucks on it.
@@IndyFarmLife - As long as it is dry, no problems. I will bet you $100 you NEVER had a truck on it after a solid 1-2 day "heavy" rain, thats when you get into trouble. If it works for you, thats fine, but, not the norm.
Guy this is entirely nonsense. Ground pack is determined by the psi strength after compaction. Dirt, soil, gravel anything.
Great information! I do gravel road maintenance here in my area and on a well established road as yours I have found that it is not necessary to keep bringing in new gravel every time. Especially if you are not losing it to the ground.
What you need is to scar the surface, churn the gravel and re-grade it. A proper box blade with scarafiers can save you a lot of money on gravel.
And you should be scarring the ground anyway before adding new gravel so that it is not just laying on hard pan.
This guy knows the drill! Yes, you often don't need more gravel on a well established road/driveway. Scarafiers on a box blade are perfect. Great for ripping pot holes if needed. The key is to try to not pull up the base layer. We recently got a land plane to help maintain our drive. A little easier to use than a box blade but not as good at moving material from A to B.
@IndyFarmLife
Yup, absolutely, you don't want to pop out those big rocks. Fine adjustments and patience to find the proper depth. There is always a trade-off going from one attachment to another.
Thank you for all your videos! They are pure inspiration!
God bless you!
@jejoko I appreciate the compliment! I try to keep them both fun and informative. Hoping to pump out a lot more this spring! Thanks for tagging along!
Saying clay is hard and and excellent substrate because stone won’t penetrate is odd-
Clay is only hard when dry.
Once it’s wet, it turns plastic, soft, and slippery.
Stone will sink right into it.
Fair point, but that's really only if allowed to saturate. When you have it graded properly, water will move off it quickly.
Our gravel road is built right on top of clay. Haven't lost any to sinking, just washing away from rain leaving ruts. And I live in an area that gets 50in of rain a year