Stand Development: Easy-Mode for Black and White Film
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Thought I'd make a quick video about stand development because I seem to be using it for 70% of my black and white films these days. It's not the fastest method but it's a great way to get images out of varying light levels and guessed exposures. I hope it's easy to follow along but if you have any questions please leave a comment below.
Stand developing...a joint at each agitation...that's 3! My mom will be proud of me!
Literally, about 0.001 percent of us think "hmmm I need to reach for my noctilux" 😂. Thanks for this, good vid.
Good evening Jonathan. Just, watched your Stand Development Video. Never, tried this method before. However, having seen your work, and Me with arthritis of the Spine, and other ailments, i Shall, from now on, be definitely giving it a bash. Many thanks and Kind regards Colyn. P.s. The, shot of your young Lady, is Great. Many thanks for Sharing ,your work.
Great vid man. Usually developing videos are boring as hell! But this really makes me want to try stand dev
Give it a go man it's so useful sometimes! I recognised your name from your Leica videos by the way, subscribed!
Video starts at 5:19
Thanks for the video. I'm about to do my first 2 rolls with stand dev. Will follow your guidelines.
Thank you for this video. I’ve just started home development. Though I’m sticking conventional development for now. I’ve learned a lot from your videos. The sound quality when you speak seems I consistent. Perhaps a stand microphone like Matt day uses would help ? Your content is definitely a cut above the rest. Please review a 50mm Summilux if you could. Thank you again.
Look here bro... Come back to CZcams. You have one of the absolute best videos on stand development. Just do it again at 1:100
You could probably save yourself a bit of time with the 1+100 dilution if you developed for 1 hour with a couple inversions every 15 minutes. You'll pretty much get the similar results!
Dude, instead of letting water run for whatever time (its ridiculous on this day and age) do the "Ilford bath" method, gotta be responsible when using water!
can you link that "ilford bath"? because I can't really find it, google gives me only Ilford stop bath. And for that I use vinegar in 1:10 dilution ;)
@@aumortis
www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Reducing-Wash-Water.pdf
Ilford Bath is really simple, instead of leaving the water running to wash your film, after you have done the fixer, you fill the container with water and you turn it 5 times, open and let the water out, fill it again with water and turn 10 times, trown the water again out, fill the container one last time and turn for 20 times (you have to double the number of turns every time you fill your container with water) and its done!
There’s oceans full of the stuff
stfu lol
@@aumortis you water your tank and turn it 3, 6, 12 and 24 times:)
There's a vid on CZcams by Figital Revolution (Stephen Schaub) who explains how you can do variating ISO on ONE FILM with Stand Dev. He uses DDX 45 Min. and always does a 5 Minute presoak to prevent bromide drag (streaking).
I have tried T-Max Dev and T-Max mixed with Parodinal, but not with variating ISO. Roger from SFLAB did a Rodinal stand test and the best I thought was the one without any agitation apart from the starting ones.
Love the video. Should give it a try soon. Thanks.
good vid, you can also mix film formats during the process, I regularly put 120 & 35mm in together
love the video! I have been developing B&W film with normal development. After watching you video, I think I would give this a try. May I ask is there any guideline on the time to develop the film? 1 hour 20 mins or 1 hour? And it applies to different range of film? Thanks!
Glad you like it! Stand developing is a very forgiving method of development so the difference between 1 hour and 1:20 won't be very big. I like to do the halfway inversion because it can help avoid some of the drawbacks but if you want to do full stand then 1 hour should suffice. It works for all black and white films.
17/06/22. For some unknown reason this is the third video of yous that has come up on my CZcams feed Just to let you know I now use Kodak HC 110 1+120 with 2ml of Rodinal for my Stand Development.
Good, I will try it again.
Hi Jonathan.
If i was only processing one film at a time , would it be best to use the 3 reel tank in order to keep the dilution the same and use the spare reels on top of loaded reel to keep it from sloshing about in tank?
just scale down the amount of chemistry you use
@@jacobshapiro9128 Thanks Jacob.
Cheers! third time watching this and about to attempt. would you recommend this method for a roll of tmax 400 pushed to 1600 and a roll of hp5 pushed to 800?
Stand developing is excellent for darkroom printing.
Dammit you shouldn't have skipped the last stages with the fix.
Intereseting video :0
Question: how long can you use/store these chemicals? It's pretty hard to find out about that and I'm maybe getting into developing myself, but it may be too expensive.
Thanks in advance!
Rodinal will last a long, long time. You'll get bored with photography long before the developer goes stale. Stop bath is just acetic acid, and is really optional, but if you don't let it evaporate, you'll be good to go forever. The fixer will last years in storage.
The most worrisome chemical to age is the developer, but that's not an issue with Rodinal.
Good luck!
Someone just used a 50 year old rodinal to develop with, and there was no difference
Thanks for the informative video =)
Good video. Did you actually meter the image of your girlfriend or just shot it wide open at the lowest handholdable speed? Any idea what the ISO rating wouldve been for that image?
As you said I just opened the Aperture and dropped the shutter as low as I dared. I think if I’d spot metered her face I’d have got somewhere between 1600-3200. Problem is I knew that light in the foreground would throw off the camera meter so I just went with it and prayed to the stand gods. That’s why this process is so forgiving, it has your back when you make a quick shot that isn’t correctly metered but is focused and composed enough to make a nice image.
Very informative video to watch.
I was wondering what developing time you would use for slower speed films. I am often shooting Fomapan 100 Classic. Is there a rule of thumb?
And is Adox Adonal any different from the Adox Rodinal you use?
Thanks!
I reckon that you’d be fine using this recipe for 100 speed films, the benefit of this is that it just doesn’t care what film speed you put in it’ll chomp through anything! I think Adonal is the same, r09 is too.
Very nice video! I'll try stand development myself inspired by this for my Acros 100. However, you developed three different films in the same tank but only showed the results from one film?! What's up with that :D
By its nature, stand development is sketchy. The results are not reliable. It's quite possible that the other films "went South", showing why stand development is something a few people try once or twice and then abandon: Huge tonal compression (flat), streaks easily seen in the mid-tones, unreliable densities and inconsistent results. The theme of the video would be corrupted if a serious examination of such results were displayed. The best images you see from stand development are urban night scenes, where the shadows are fully developed (assuming enough developer is used) and specular highlights (street lights and neon signs) are controlled to minimize blow-out. Normal daylight scenes with a full range of tones are areas of even tone (sky) are usually a disaster. (A mid-development agitation will reduce any bromide drag effect, but its doesn't eliminate it, since the problem, a concentration of bromine by-products inhibiting development, occurs over time. The one agitation just breaks up that concentration and started the process over again. And of course, standing in developer for 90 minutes insures that your film image will be as grainy as is possible to produce. )
Interesting.Thanks.
Thanks man!
Hey! Does that mean you can shoot different ISO values within a SINGLE roll of film?
Yes it does! The grain and contrast will be different but you’ll get images on each frame.
Jonathan Notley Awesome! It’s insanely powerful technique then! Thanks for the reply!
Good video demonstration of one of the less credible B& W development processes. it's negative features related to surrendering all of the image control over development, at best yielding a lowish contrast norm, which will often fail for various reasons. It works because development by-products inhibit further development, so the highlight areas (dense negative) will stall first, letting the shadow areas continue to develop. The image result is pretty much is out of control. Bromide drag will mark the image depending on factors not in control; mid-way agitation just restarts the process. If you need contrast compensation to compress a huge subject contrast, try a water-bath process as an alternative. This really is for lazy people indifferent to quality results, which seems inconsistent with the effort to do your own B&W processing.
Despite this it can still be a useful tool. For example a roll that is suddenly required to be pushed mid way through or a found roll of black and white which you aren't sure about.
@@JonathanNotley Maybe for "shot in the dark" processing of a roll you aren't sure of, however the uncontrolled nature of stand development pretty much negates the ability to push process. Stand development works over extended times because the process relies on exhaustion of the very small amount of developing agent used.
Hi, how did you digitised your pictures? What minimum resolution do you recommend? Ta
Get a Plustek 8200i. I use 3600ppi for 35mm. Above that I don’t see any difference but the files become enormous.
nice one . . . .
Great video! I'll definitely try this out!
One quick thing, the audio was a little low on my end. Maybe boost it a bit for the next video?
Thanks! I’ll make sure to boost it a bit next time :)
DADDDY
Hmmmmmm
Jonathan Notley shhhh I'm helping you out here aight
What are the best films for Rodinal 1:100?
some with less silver in it. If u have much silver in the film, u should use some fast and strong developer like D76
Any film where you do not care about your images. Seriously, the very long development time required, whether "stand" or normal agitation, will insure you will get the largest and most apparent grain, although sharp edged grain. The faster the film ISO, the larger that grain. Choice depends on whether that course grain enhances or impairs your image. It also depends on what you will do with the image. If you are planning a wet darkroom enlargement over 5x in size, you probably want to minimize apparent grain by using a slow film ISO 125 or less, maybe a T-grain type film as well. If you are going to scan and post the image to social media It probably doesn't make any difference which film you use.
Have you tried this process with any other developer? D76 or Ilford?
You shouldn't really stand develop with anything other than rodinal. Other developers will give you bromide drag much easier than rodinal.
D76 would make so much grain that images could be totally useless. D76 is for stock or 1+1 developing. Higher solution means more grain, I know it is weird but thats how D76 works, Basically very unusual from other developers
@@MKVD you can also do stand development with HC110 diluted, or FX2 (Crawley).
I didn’t know you had hipsters in the UK
hi, your negative really no need to be wash like that, 12 clean water in the tank is enough, one bath of hypoclean agent kodak too. nice to you
Your visual content is great, your sound is terrible. So it's not amazing to look your videos. It would be so easy to improve this ...
I’ve tried a couple of different mics and editing adjustments. I think it’s the acoustics of the room I record in.
Yes, it's your room. You need a tie clip microphone, this will improve the sound quality enormously ;-)
... and best quality with a headset microphone, only disadvantage is the look.
I have and was using a lav mic
ok ... so you have unfavorable conditions in your room. Your rooms is nice, but because it's naked it's not yt-friendly.
He summed it up when he said “it’s super lazy”. Look up “bromide drag”. You’ll ruin more film with this sloppy practice than anything else you might attempt.