@@nolixss6941)Spin IT 2) Brake slowly 3) thighten both Bolts a bit while holding that break 4) repeat 1-2 to ceck it 5) thighten IT fully with the Breaks apllied.
I use a caliper guide which is 2 super slim metal plates that curve in radius with the disc. It's kind of like a flick knife with 2 metal thin blades. It's step 2 with step 3 idea but no need to remove the caliper.
I’ve had this problem and none of these methods worked because the resetting position of the pistons after releasing the lever had moved much closer inward leading to the problem! So I had to take the pads out and push the pistons outward and into the machines, so after putting in the pads there were more free space between the pads and the rotor and the problem went away fortunately.
No reason for 3 on modern (pistons on both sides) brakes. I'll use the first if I want to do it "properly", especially with 4 piston brakes it's best so that the caliper really is square to the disk. If you have a lazy piston, grabbing the brake and tightening can make it not square and centered. But I use it to just get the brake to stop rubbing while I'm on a ride.
Really important. Take your wheel off, loosen rotor bolts half a turn, wiggle rotor, centre the wiggle, tighten in a 135246 order repeating bit by bit. Check pistons are pushing out evenly, if not tyre lever them back in push out, hold the faster moving one still, lube piston with silicone spray/dot fluid. Reset, retry until they come out evenly. Now use method one, bike upsidedown from the top of the caliper.
Literally no difference between two and three if your brakes are regularly serviced. However if your pistons don’t return I guess the paper method would work but not really. 🤷♂️😂
Align caliper body to rotor with shims is most accurate but time consuming. Squeeze & hold is least accurate as pistons can move in more than one plane.
Number 1 isn't very good because you may not get it straight, so it might twist your rotor, so you will warp it very quickly Number 2 is decent and usually my go-to Number 3 you really don't need to take off the whole caliper, just loosen it and slide the paper in
There's a 4th method.. take it to a professional. I may have to take my brand new MTB to a bike shop or back to the place I bought it from for the rear brake to be aligned correctly. I think the rotor may be warped slightly which isn't obvious when looking at it as the brakes rub in the same spot.
@@TopToBottomMTB definitely. It's no biggie and shouldn't affect the performance of the bike too much. That's what I get for going for a cheaper bike I suppose 🤷♂️, but I could always try and replace the rotor if that's possible without needing to replace the whole wheel.
Eyeball track is a waste of time call my holding the brake handle with the loose caliper then tightening the bolt usually works 90% of the time. But if all else fails the paper method is like 100% every fucking time
Remove your wheel, note the distance between the brake pads, gently squeeze your brake lever whist watching the caliper. The idea is to slightly reduce the distance between the brake pads. Reinstall the wheel and test. It may take a couple of tries but once set, you're good to go 👍. DON'T OVER DO IT! You don't want your pistons falling out.
for example if you have cheap breaks with only one pad moving, if you align it without paper it will always touch rotor, paper will give you about 0,1mm of clearance
All *properly adjusted* Brakes should work reasonably well... *AVID BB7* Cable Actuated Calipers (have inner and outer pad adjustments without tools)... *Magura MT7* (MT5 as well as some others)... *Shimano XT* (and others more expensive, or less adjustable or less powerful)... *HOPE* (too many versions will work well, especially if *colors* are as important as quality braking)... *Hayes* and *SRAM* (especially newer than ~2011)... Are my preferred order of choices for *Performance* with *ease of setup* and *reduced necessity for tinkering and adjustments* although there are a number of others such as my 6-piston *GatorBrakes* that work very well as well... I also have another Cable Actuated Brand/Model (Hayes?) that Actuates BOTH Pads at the same time (whereas BB7 Actuates Outer Pad Only)... *Paul* might make some trick Calipers, too...
Why is it that putting a piece of paper where your caliper is and hitting the break and tighten it down is any different than just hitting the break and tightening down??? What's the difference Gap? Idk
Hi brother , i need your help. My MTB's rear brake pads is misaligned with disk hence it rubbing disk from corners only and because of that braking is also reduced , 300 miles and it is 3rd brake pad i had to change , please help me align it in order to achieve maximum efficiency from brake pads , Because mechanic just does not want to understand the problem.
1st way is the only way. holding your lever will only work if your mount is perfectly faced & your rotor is perfectly straight - which is almost never the case
grabbing your brake to center it won’t always work since even new rotors aren’t completely straight…
Whats the solution?
Always worked for me.
May not always work the first time, but it works
@@nolixss6941)Spin IT 2) Brake slowly 3) thighten both Bolts a bit while holding that break 4) repeat 1-2 to ceck it 5) thighten IT fully with the Breaks apllied.
@@nolixss694 rim breaks
The tip I want to share with people is to tighten the screws slowly , because torquing the screws too fast can actually shift the caliper
3rd one was genius! And I think it will work for ANY condition
It does! Works every time…
It's just number 2 with extra steps
Not much difference to number 2, except the pistons are pushed back a bit. A few lever pulls and that is gone.
I use method 3 although I have had to use 1 on magura.
3rd is the only one that work any type of calipers, including single-side pistons.
Awesome video, Dude!! Unlike so many tech help videos on YT, you get STRAIGHT TO THE SOLUTION!! Well done!!
I can only ever get the 1st one to work. Use a torch and hold it behind the caliper and eyeball it lol
Thank you! the paper + resetting the pistons worked perfectly!
Music to my ears!
2nd method works for me every time. The key is to hold the brake!
I use a caliper guide which is 2 super slim metal plates that curve in radius with the disc. It's kind of like a flick knife with 2 metal thin blades. It's step 2 with step 3 idea but no need to remove the caliper.
Nice! I should find one of those!
So effectively a set of feeler guages?
@@benpc1794 or shims
Very useful!. If your pistons do not retract symmetrically, #2 does not work. In that case #1 or #3 are required.
Thank you homie
No worries!!
Awesome tips man.. thank you!!!!
Cheers!🤜🏼🤛🏼
Supper bro I love that 2❤❤🎉
I use method 1 or 3 because hose routing rarely allows the (unclamped) caliper to rest parallel to the rotor.
Most of the time its the disc warping. They sell a disc truing tool on Jenson for 4 bucks. Works like a charm
disc trying tool? you mean putting it on the ground and hitting it with a hammer 😎
I’ve had this problem and none of these methods worked because the resetting position of the pistons after releasing the lever had moved much closer inward leading to the problem! So I had to take the pads out and push the pistons outward and into the machines, so after putting in the pads there were more free space between the pads and the rotor and the problem went away fortunately.
Gonna try that paper method 😮
Все бы отдал за такой велик даже душу
The third method works like a charm .. just experiment with thickness of the paper..thx 😎👍🏻
Really helpful, thank you so much!
You've changed my life with the 3rd
🤜🏼🤛🏼
In my head the second method sounds like the best and easyest one. I guess
No reason for 3 on modern (pistons on both sides) brakes. I'll use the first if I want to do it "properly", especially with 4 piston brakes it's best so that the caliper really is square to the disk. If you have a lazy piston, grabbing the brake and tightening can make it not square and centered. But I use it to just get the brake to stop rubbing while I'm on a ride.
I used all kind of methods and all have failed, but the paper method is the best. Thanks 💪
🤜🏼🤛🏼
Really important. Take your wheel off, loosen rotor bolts half a turn, wiggle rotor, centre the wiggle, tighten in a 135246 order repeating bit by bit.
Check pistons are pushing out evenly, if not tyre lever them back in push out, hold the faster moving one still, lube piston with silicone spray/dot fluid. Reset, retry until they come out evenly.
Now use method one, bike upsidedown from the top of the caliper.
Thx🤓
Literally no difference between two and three if your brakes are regularly serviced. However if your pistons don’t return I guess the paper method would work but not really. 🤷♂️😂
Hydraulic brakes are supposed to have a wobble on the disk, to push the caliper back a bit after applying brakes.
3rd way but just loosen the caliper and use automotive feeler gauges instead of paper. .005 on each side
Whoo hoo I was 10k like 😂 I've done this so many times on videos and it's never changed over that's a first
Great explanation 👍🏻
Align caliper body to rotor with shims is most accurate but time consuming. Squeeze & hold is least accurate as pistons can move in more than one plane.
1st method is the best
Obrigado aprendi
If your mounts not completely perpendicular to the rotor it will still rub after you hit the brakes for the first time after this installation.
3rd method accurate
Number 1 isn't very good because you may not get it straight, so it might twist your rotor, so you will warp it very quickly
Number 2 is decent and usually my go-to
Number 3 you really don't need to take off the whole caliper, just loosen it and slide the paper in
What’s the difference between method 2 and 3, other than the paper
I already did 3d one using thin plasic cards that i cut off
Given your rotor is not bent XD
Just get Hayes Dominions !!! ,🔥🔥🔥💯
Do not loosen your caliper screws to get the paper in the third method
2 & 3 make the most sense
1 for the rear is 75%, just use bright flashlight
My front caliper mount is some angle cross welding 🤧😬
I do step number two everytime i take off my front wheel and put it back.
I’m either 50% brake or 0% brake, depends what I ride I’ll never have more than 1 brake
I does the number 2. The easiest way!
Doesn’t work with single pull caliper or with out of true rotor.
How about 1 piston brakes? How?
Yeeee knew I forgot something.
The second method only work on hydraulic disc brakes
👍🏻
#2 is best
There's a 4th method.. take it to a professional.
I may have to take my brand new MTB to a bike shop or back to the place I bought it from for the rear brake to be aligned correctly. I think the rotor may be warped slightly which isn't obvious when looking at it as the brakes rub in the same spot.
That’s true! Forgot that one… If it’s out of you’re condo level, a professional should handle it!🥵
@@TopToBottomMTB definitely. It's no biggie and shouldn't affect the performance of the bike too much.
That's what I get for going for a cheaper bike I suppose 🤷♂️, but I could always try and replace the rotor if that's possible without needing to replace the whole wheel.
Spinning the wheel fast before applying the brake will help with #2
Yeah that helps a lot!
Eyeball track is a waste of time call my holding the brake handle with the loose caliper then tightening the bolt usually works 90% of the time. But if all else fails the paper method is like 100% every fucking time
Can you do an how to adjust your back brake because mine doesn't bite that much
In the works…
Remove your wheel, note the distance between the brake pads, gently squeeze your brake lever whist watching the caliper. The idea is to slightly reduce the distance between the brake pads. Reinstall the wheel and test. It may take a couple of tries but once set, you're good to go 👍. DON'T OVER DO IT! You don't want your pistons falling out.
This is assuming that the rotor is perfectly straight
Park tool dt-5.2
Hey man my front tire is bent a bit like mis aligned with the forks how do I straighten it
take it to a bike shop, most likely a few spokes may be loose on the actual wheel itself so all it’ll need is trueing if that’s what the issue is
What's the diff between method 1 and 2? What is the paper for?
for example if you have cheap breaks with only one pad moving, if you align it without paper it will always touch rotor, paper will give you about 0,1mm of clearance
Always,#1 other suggestions are bs
what bike brand is that?
It’s a Commencal Meta AM 29
Does this work with my wiggly disks
Sadly no... wiggly discs go in the garbage.
Hey man, I've changed my calipers two times and it's not working as it's supposed to. What are some best quality brake calipers you recommend?
What do you have now?
"it's not working as it's supposed to" is a fairly ambiguous statement.
All *properly adjusted* Brakes should work reasonably well...
*AVID BB7* Cable Actuated Calipers (have inner and outer pad adjustments without tools)...
*Magura MT7* (MT5 as well as some others)...
*Shimano XT* (and others more expensive, or less adjustable or less powerful)...
*HOPE* (too many versions will work well, especially if *colors* are as important as quality braking)...
*Hayes* and *SRAM* (especially newer than ~2011)...
Are my preferred order of choices for *Performance* with *ease of setup* and *reduced necessity for tinkering and adjustments*
although there are a number of others such as my 6-piston *GatorBrakes* that work very well as well...
I also have another Cable Actuated Brand/Model (Hayes?) that Actuates BOTH Pads at the same time (whereas BB7 Actuates Outer Pad Only)...
*Paul* might make some trick Calipers, too...
Excellent bruh 👏
WD40
Start with shimano
Why is it that putting a piece of paper where your caliper is and hitting the break and tighten it down is any different than just hitting the break and tightening down??? What's the difference Gap? Idk
Yes, gap. The pads can rub the disc if adjusted without paper between them (method 2).
3rd way is my favorite. Works every time unless your rotors are warped.
👌🏻
Hi brother , i need your help. My MTB's rear brake pads is misaligned with disk hence it rubbing disk from corners only and because of that braking is also reduced , 300 miles and it is 3rd brake pad i had to change , please help me align it in order to achieve maximum efficiency from brake pads , Because mechanic just does not want to understand the problem.
Does this one help?
czcams.com/users/shortsd7XTUchnl2Y?feature=share
If u have mechanical break this is not alwats the fix
1st way is the only way. holding your lever will only work if your mount is perfectly faced & your rotor is perfectly straight - which is almost never the case
as a bicycle mechanic 95% of all hydraulic brakes i work on can be perfectly centered by pulling the brakes
Or just use paper and put it in between
Calipers not callipers
3rd one is a worse version of the 1st
method 2 did it for me today ! had to steal my wife's wheel 😂
I bought a metal version of the third version. The paper way works every time though.
🤜🏼🤛🏼
Didn't work
I hate disc brakes.
And they hate you too… 🤣
@@TopToBottomMTB glad the feelings mutual.
What the heck does the paper even do
It puts equal spacing on both sides of the rotor.
@@TopToBottomMTB pretty sure you can do that without the paper
@@YouGotOwned87 you can… just another tool in the tool belt💪🏻
Paper is thin 3 times human hair, its imposile