i have the 3400 when its idleing in drive it gets hot and than goes back to the cold side but it dont over heat it actually runs goood and another thing the code p0401 keeps poping up i changed the egr valve and it stilll pops up thanks alot besafe always have a great beautyful day
Do a coolant system pressure test to check for any leaks in the system. Could just need the air bled out and coolant topped off. The EGR 0401 code is likely carbon build up in the passages. Take off the throttle body and EGR. Run a hard wire down the port and clean it up, suck out the carbon that comes down through the intake. VT247
You are a sanity saver! I got my '04 Aztek last August as a gift & since February I've had a plethora of issues that I've had to fix. Mostly normal, high-mileage, old-car issues except for the few remaining weird, pull-your-hair-out issues that have had me quite batty. Thanx to this video, as well as comments and replies, I now know what to do. And for the first time in awhile, I am eager and ecstatic to be spending the next couple days in the garage. Thank you so very much for sharing!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, by 2003 aztek overheated and left me stranded, Now that I have it back in my garage and after watching your video I am confident its the head gasket. I will be watching your other videos and tackling it myself, Thank you again for being the type of person who helps put knowledge like this out there for people like me.
Good luck finding a replacement motor. Might consider replacing all the gaskets (head, intake and timing cover) before dropping a new one in. Could save some headache later on down the road. VT247
Not sure what the name of it is. There’s a rubber grommet that the vacuum tubing goes into that fastens to the upper intake. Make sure it is fully seated and secure. Might have to remove the metal throttle cable bracket to see or fix though. VT247
I have a 2002 Chevrolet impala 3.4L that overheats when going up mountainous roads during summer. Coolant is level, fans work, thermostat works as it should, new coolant pump, and just has coolant system pressure test done but can't figure out the problem. Live in Southwest Virginia
Sounds like you've covered all your bases. When you say it overheats, does it puke out the overflow tank? If not, then it may just be getting hot but not necessarily overheating. Only other suggestion would be to make sure there aren't any blockages in front of the radiator. May try pressure washing to clear the venting fins. VT247
Our mechanic said the aftermarket oem quality water pumps are garbage on these engines. We had the same problem. The intake was leaking and the gaskets were replaced. Then the Gates water pump failed after just one year. The water pump caused overheating again, and it blew a head gasket. The top end was rebuilt, and a GM Goodwrench water pump installed. Since then no problems, and that was five years ago.
Whats is the normal operating range on the temperature gauge. I am usually at the 11 oclock and 12 oclock in city driving. But around 1 on highway driving. Thank you for any information
Temp is right in the middle. 4t65e seems to desire a few degrees less temp; Ive got mercon atf. ( The normal 2005 atuff) My 4t65e hard shifts (thumps) at temp. So, Q: Any guess? Maybe it is an ATF viscosity at temp? How can I get a few degrees less temp? Maybe some ATF thickener like STP. I am thinking of using 160 stat and hard wiring radiator fan to 100%. Id really like to stop the trans to stop slaming shifts. Kinda think that holding temp at 160 will fix it. I do appreciate your thoughts! Old Timer Richard.
@@Vacationtime247 I suspect I had an air lock in cooling system. The 4t65e needs the correct temp. to function well due to its advancing age. Getting the air out w the bleed screws looks like all it needed. If troubles are marginal, I will add an aft market trans cooler. I do think my valve body needs care due to wear and blow by. Theory is the cooler will keep the viscosity up by preventing excess thinning of atf fluid. Thanks for your knowledge.
Hey my buddy replaced his thermostat in his overheating 2001 Buick century. Now when he tries to start it up it cranks but won't actually start then possibly a back fire or burp.. what should I look at first to address this? Probably occurred during poor mechanic work
@@buddyroper1174 If you're looking at the motor from the front of the van. There will be a couple wires going to two sensors. The one on the left would be the knock sensor. To the right, under the exhaust manifold, is the oil pressure sensor. VT247
Only paid $900 for my GM and drove it 1500 miles straight, but have already replaced the windshield, alternator, thermostat, and God knows what will come next as it is now overheating.
I ran a direct wire and removed my thermostat put some blue devil and it's been running good for 2 years with no engine problems 2000 chevy malibu Ls 3100v6
@@cathybowen.Shelly was your temp gauge reading normally before replacing the sensor? Or was it always reading all the way cold or hot? Jw, I think I'm having the same issue with my van...
Thank you so much i have an 2003 alero & im dealing with this same problem again it ran hot but instead of getting a regular 3400 motor head i got an super charge. & it started over heating & misfiring so when i pour water into it its comes out the motor head.
Wonder if one or more of the head bolts got stripped out. But the head has to mate with the block right or else it will certainly spew water all over. The GM 3400's had problem with their gaskets. Best to rebuild the entire thing with new gaskets if your doing one. Because eventually, the head, timing cover and intake gasket will all eventually leak. VT247
My alero olds mobile 3 .400 iput tomany parts and he stil. Miss fire cilinder 1 but i pull the spark plug out its oil an the spark plug some people said is the head gasket can't you answer my question please
i have a 2003 venture. i had a blown head gasket. changed gaskets,radiator,cooler thermostat, cooler sensor. coolant ,oil, put sea form. the coolant is backing up in reservoir and trying to over flow. now car won't start now smelling gas. need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
5.17.14. The Dexcool coolant will degrade the L.I.M. Gaskets, along with the head gaskets if the coolant is not completely drained from the system. The engine block has drain plugs for both cylinder banks. The back bank drain plug is located between cylinders 3 & 5, & is difficult to access. People go way too long on the coolant service of the system. 2yr/30k miles is what I go. Also the EGR passage port in the upper intake manifold clogs up with carbon, causing a poor or stalling idle. I pulled my engines L.I.M. Off at 82k miles and the L.I.M. Gaskets were just showing slight signs of degrading, not leaking yet. I decided to pull the heads off to inspect the head gaskets. I found that the Dexcool was degrading the head gasket where the opening for the coolant in the block met the opening in the head! It was not leaking yet, but would have in time! I use Fel-Pro metal framed L.I.M. Gaskets & SD head gaskets. Another source of oil leaking is the oil pump drive O-ring located near the flywheel end of the block.
Yep you hit it right on the head! The previous owner of my 04 grand am 3.4 had changed over from the orange dexcool to the green and saved all the gaskets that way! I got lucky, unfortunately the transmission has issues after it warms up from freeway speeds. When i come to a stop it shifts hard into the next gear all the way to fourth, so i feather it as well as power shift to shift it sooner so it lands a softer shift.
@@johnanderson5500 if you can, hook up a scantool and monior data, see if the mass air readings and everything is correct. Shift strategy ,etc use a lot of Inputs
Ive got the evap issue should i start with the evap solenoid over the gas tank or the part by the throttle body the o2 sensors are reading bad also figured that was because of the evap letting out bad emissions too much unburnt fuel the 3.1 liter 2002 buick century has 85,000 miles on it
Check inside the upper intake where the EGR bolts on. They are prone to carbon up real bad there through the passages. Another evap issue I once had was the check engine light would come on due to a bad FTPS (fuel tank pressure sensor. It's located on top of the tank, but can be reached under the vehicle. VT247
This motor was in an Aztek. But they put the same engine in the Impala for many years. Often GM puts the same motor in several different vehicles. VT247
@@Vacationtime247 Thank you so much for replying. Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. The inevitable happened yesterday as a Matter of fact. It was running really hot when I picked my son up from school yesterday.. and didn't make it a quarter mile until it had gotten so hot that it shut down on me as I was driving. Thank goodness I was able to get the car pulled off on the side of the road. I have been so frustrated with it that I haven't even bothered to go back to it and try to see if it will back. I would say I that I probably messed it for good. But again, Thank you so much for ur help.
I push coolant into the radiator with the coolant exchanger (under light pressure) till coolant comes out of both bleeders. Found it the fastest way to get air out. I am at the point I have to do the gaskets though
Do a coolant system pressure test. My guess is that there is a leak somewhere. Check the oil, make sure it doesn't look like a milkshake inside. These motors had bad gaskets all around, the intake, timing cover and head gaskets always eventually blow out on these engines. VT247
Have 2003 grand am gt 3.4, started missing, sounded like a knock but was firing it seemed inside intake behind Throttle body. Code is mb ass air flow and #3 misfire. Put on new cool, spark plug, still missing.
Might be a stripped out rocker arm bolt. On some 3400 the threads are not very strong and a small bolt that goes into the aluminum head. Would explain the knock and would also explain the misfire. Take a piece of rubber tubing, put one end where the sound is coming from. The other end to your ear and listen near the valve cover. You can drill and helicoil the stripped out bolt for a fix. Hope this helps. VT247
I am ignorant to these things. So plz be nice. If a person has a blown head gasket. Is that something you have to buy brand new or could a person go to a junkyard or a person that has one they are parting out. Could a used head gasket from another work as good. Or is that a part that has to be bought brand new.
Head Gaskets are a one time use item for these engines. The entire gasket set for this motor is less than $100. What costs so much is all the labor and replacing broken bolts when doing a head gasket job. The head gasket is something that needs to be bought new. VT247
Wow I have been messing with my 97 Venture on and off forever! When it runs...IT RUNS!....I learned SO much from this one video about my Mertha...Do you recommend any sources that are HARD CORE Venture specific? New tuck is toooo expensive right now!
Thank you so much, I will do that today. Also I was told to loosen header exhaust bolts that converters was bad for going bad on those, I did check the exhaust and could not hardly feel much exhaust. So I'm guessing I will be trying both today. I will let you know how it turns out, thank you agian car friend.
I've cut out a section just behind the cat converter and then used a hammer and pry bar to bust up the material inside. Then blow it out by starting the car a few times. If after cleaning out the cat, the secondary O2 sensor reads low or wrong voltage, add in a spark plug non fouler to the end of the secondary O2 sensor. Drill out the inside of the non fouler so the O2 sensor screws on inside. Will keep the code from setting. VT247
the 3.1l didn't so much have head gasket issues but it dose have intake gasket issues. I hade to replace the lower intake gasket on my 91 Pontiac 6000. he'll of a motor though. ran the shit out if it everyday and when I traded it in it had 315,000 miles on it and it still ran like a top
Here's one for you: 2000 Silhouette 3.4 was overheating. Replaced t-stat because it was sticking. Purged air using a hose tee on the heater hoses and raising it above the rest of the system. Purge, fill, repeat until there was no air left to purge. Both fans operating. No white or otherwise unusual exhaust smoke. Engine ran great, heater was hot, temp gauge fluctuated but stayed generally in the middle. Took it on the highway for about 5 miles at 50-55 mph and began to hit the red zone. Tried using 3rd gear to accelerate coolant flow but that didn't seem to have an effect. Engine started to lose power as I pulled off highway. Slowly opened hose tee to see if there was air in there again, and there was a lot. Released steam slowly for about 5 minutes, then started it back up and drove it home. Had to release steam two more times to make it home. Possible diagnoses: 1.) Head gasket dumping exhaust into the coolant and pressurizing it, but if that were true wouldn't there be white exhaust smoke? 2.) Water pump not moving coolant fast enough and it's boiling. 3.) Radiator plugged with rust and Dex-Kill goo. 4.) I didn't really get all the air out.
Pretty sure it's a blown head gasket. These engines are known for gasket failures. Might try a coolant system pressure test and see if it holds pressure. Could try a chemical test and check for exhaust gases in the coolant. It's a blue dye that changes color in the presence of exhaust gases. If you do have to fix the head gaskets, do the entire engine, timing cover, head and intake. They all go out eventually on these motors. VT247
@@Vacationtime247 Forgot to say I did go to AutoZone and rent a pressure test kit. It held 16 psi as long as I could hold on the GM cap that didn't fit perfectly. A full 60 seconds maybe; didn't get a chance to fix the cap issue. I was also thinking of the chemical test. If it's a head gasket, I don't have the time or space, and we'll just hock the van on craigslist and try and get $400 for it.
Well the oil doesn't look milky so I don't think it's a head gasket but at idle when it starts getting hot coolant fluid wants to go out the over fill tube and at idle with Reservoir cap off it just starts bubbling have any ideas
Usually when the oil looks milky, it's because of the intake manifold has failed. Allowing coolant and oil to mix. You should consider a chemical test to check for a bad head gasket. Basically looks like a squeeze tube that has a blue chemical inside that turns yellow in the presence of exhaust gases. Place it on top of the coolant reservoir before it boils over to 'sniff' the fumes from the bubbles. That or try a coolant leakdown test. Basically you fasten the tool to the radiator cap (with the engine cool) and pump it up. The cooling system should hold @15 psi and not drop fast. If it does, look for leaks or hissing indicating a bad gasket. The gaskets on these engines will all go out eventually. If you're doing one, do them all. Intake, head and timing cover. Saves time and effort in the long run. VT247
I have a 1999 Silhouette with 300,000 on the vehicle, replaced trans and engine around 150,000. I intend to drive it until I replace it with a flying saucer :) . I made a modification to the coils and wiring to make it easier to access. I straightened the L-shaped aluminum mount upon which the coils and ignition module rest, then mounted them on top of the intake manifold. It still clears the hood, but makes it much easier to get all those parts in case the coils or module fail. I came about this because a had a no start, that seemed as if it was an ignition module, but turned out it was a broken wire from the crankshaft position sensor. I am prepared to fix this on the roadside, so I try to keep spares with me for things that often break.
I have an 04 Chevy Venture that every time I try to put gas in it, the pump clicks off. It literally takes me 20 minutes to get 3/4 of a tank of gas before I finally give up. Is there a quick fix for this?
Bought a Impala new in 2000. Highly maintained it. 130,000. Both heads cracked. New loaded GM heads were a good deal. Lucky the colant leaked into the combustion chamber.no Water in the oil. Took me 3 days to install both heads. Getting slower at 58 years old.
No kidding. Not getting any younger myself. Used to be able to work all night on a car then wake up and do it all over again. Now, the ol' back makes me pay for any work done the day before. lol VT247
58 is getting old! 🤔🙄🤭 I turned 80 last week. I bought an 06 Buick Terraza with 3.5 cheap because it started to overheat. I tried everything short of gaskets. Nothing worked. No cream on rad cap or dipstick, or oil on surface of coolant. There's combustion gas in cooling system, so I am now half way to complete. Got FelPro gasket set. In Missouri it's a bit warm to work on cars outside. My heads are not cracked or warped, so almost ready to put everything back together. I don't think I'll be able to do this many more years. Most of 3 days so far. Hope to drive it within a week.
Very informative, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a question about my 2000 3.4l Impala. I'm having a problem with the bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor. The scan tool I'm using shows a negative reading during live data. I have another Impala (2003) 3.8l and it says the same thing on sensor 1 bank 1. I was just wondering if it's a common issue or if I'm doing something wrong. I've replaced the sensors, I've used cheap o2 sensors and I've used expensive ones but it still doesn't help.
I have an 03 silhouette. Last year i did a head gasket replacment due to engine over heating. Our one means of transportation. Ran top notch till it all of a sudden threw a po303 code. Cylinder three multiple Misfire. Spark pkug and wires and coils all check out ok. Issue is when you try to accelerate it tries to bog down. Check engine light startd to flash. Once gas pedal is released engine light eventually goes back to solid on. Checked ohm reading on the fuel injectors and got 11.6 on #3 and #1. Still main mode if transportation so any and all feedback is welcome. Thanks
Here's what I'd check if it were mine. Getting to the injectors can be difficult. Check each injector with a noid light, make sure it's getting power. While it's dark outside, mist water around all the area's of the #3 cylinder and make double sure it's not the spark system. Had coils that look good but are cracked and will throw blue sparks if there is a mist of water around it, causing it to misfire. Might swap the coil pack and wire to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. Could try tapping on the #3 injector to see if the idle changes. Just a few suggestions. VT247
Vacationtime247 thanks. I tried swapping coils and it still had same code. Its hard to grt to the injectors like you said so how would you suggest reaching them with plenum on?
at idle there really is not much of a mis that is noticeable. But I will try the water trick to see if spark is jumping out of #3 coil area. Stay tuned...
I got a 2003 montana and?it is?over heating. It looks like it is coing from right under the exhaust manifold. Almost like its coming from the moter from underneath and it just poirs out. The is no water in the oil but it dont want to start at all now
Sounds like a bad head gasket. These engines are known to have bad factory gaskets. Fill up the radiator and do a coolant pressure test. Can get the loan a tool from Autozone. Water will shoot out from where the leak is and will be easy to spot. VT247
I've got a heap of a 1997 oldsmobile HELL-OH-ET with the 3400 engine and it is leaking coolant from the passenger side of the engine . I think it is coming out somewhere by the water pump or tensioner pulley assembly but i can't see for sure . I do know it's not coming from the radiator or the hoses. It's almost seeming to be accumulating on the face of the water pump pulley and getting spattered on to the radiator and the control arm etc , but it seems like it's barely accumulating when I'm parked and the engine is idling. I believe driving is when it leaks the worst due to there being alot of coolant in the areas i specified when i popped the hood to inspect the sweet coolant smell i smelt when we were driving it home . There is no coolant in the oil and no bubbles in the reservoir and the heater works great , i just replaced the temp. Control sensor and bled the system properly . If you have any suggestions my email is canjojohn02@gmail.com and i would appreciate any suggestions at all . Thank you , sincerely ,Rod
Thank you for all the info. I have a 2003 olds alero with the 3400 and it has been overheating but it also has been throttleing on it own. I will be going 45 let off the gas and it stays at 45. So my wonderful mechanic first had me buy a water pump then the temp sensor and he was sending me to get a thermostat when i noticed that neither of tye fans where running and it was well above temp at this point. So i check fuses and cleaned relays but fans still dont work. What do u think. And i checked the oil cap and dip stick and do not see any white residue nor can i spot a leak when u showed to look. I truly appreciate your help.
Bleed the system of air. If it runs fine for a while then overheats along with again having air in the system, it's probably a bad head gasket. Might try a system pressure test to confirm. As far as the staying at the same speed, check for vacuum leaks and if the throttle body is closing all the way. To test if the fans work, unplug the temp sensor and they should come on, but this will trigger a code. Yet, it's a quick easy way to tell if the fans are working. VT247
Vacationtime247 WOW man I didnt really think you would respond. I wasnt sure like how old your stuff was. I really appreciate it. I think my biggest problem in the situation was the guy who I thought was a mechanic but it turns out he is good and putting on new parts which if i had a garage full of tools and CZcams i could probably do. So today an old newer friend of mine called me and i totally forgot he us a certified mechanic and works at a shop. So he looked it over today and tomorrow he is going to take it and fix all this crap. I will pass on your info. He did say that i definitely have to buy a tensioner pulley because he could actually see it moving around and its possible that was causeing the throttle issue. And once again I really appreciate it it's good to know that I can reach out to someone if i have anymore issues.
Thanks for the great video.. at 2:05, when you're pointing out the intake temperature air sensor, there is a small 90 degree hose that also goes into the intake and is followed into a hole in the engine around back. it's fairly short, about 12 - 14 inches. Do you know what it's called and what it's for? I broke mine while removing the intake in the middle of winter and it was fairly brittle. I spliced it back together with a flexible clear braided PVC hose until I can find a part number. I'm hoping it's not damaging because it's also PVC. but I'm not driving the vehicle at the moment until I'm sure. Thanks for your help.
+Rahim D. That tube is for crankcase fumes to be recirculated back through the engine. Not sure if it's got an exact name. PCV crossover tube. As long as it has a good seal and doesn't have any vacuum leaks it's good. Might have to get a replacement from a junkyard. VT247
I have a 2000 Impala w/ 3.4 and it seems work as far as morning startup and running the heater, however when you look at the temp gauge it will be 165 or so and only one time I put coolant in was when we found a cut or bad area to the overflow eank at the radiator, we cut off the bad area and replaced no more leak. But yesterday I had to make a road trip of about 60 miles oneway going down know problem 59 outside temp, coming back 72 outside, about 175 on temp gauge and when we got 12 miles from home the message center flashed LOW COOLANT LEVEL, I pulled off the road and checked coolant tank and it was 4 or 5 in down from top, both hoses had pressure and never got to midrange temp untill I got home. I checked levels the next day and everything was fine. Now the Service Engine light in the message center is always on, been reset I dont know how many times, got it on a big computer and the only thing he could find was a BCM maybe bad or what have you, but the system itself is fine. Would the BCM cause something like I mentioned ??? The car sit for 2 years, because the lady bought a new car (traveling nurse) The gas cap doesnt stay tight, the radiator cap (looks) like it could be replaced (but not leaking that I know of) As far as water pump or thermostat I dont have a clue. Im disabled and I needed a car and was given this one, but I cant afford any big repairs. Can you PLEASE HELP ME ??? Thanks
There may be a coolant level sensor on the car, may be faulty. Also try adding fluid all the way up and then bleed the air out of the system when the car is at operating temp. There should be two bleeders. One on top of the water pump, the other on top of the water neck outlet by the thermostat. VT247
On my Venture, the coolant level sensor is on the end of the radiator below the radiator cap. If the coolant level is 4 or 5 inches down, then the coolant level sensor should be signalling low level, which in your case it did. I recommend using a spill-free funnel for bleeding the air out of the cooling system. That's what I use and it works great. You should do a coolant pressure test though to check for leaks. You should also check to make sure the head gasket isn't blown. Use a combustion leak tester to determine if there's exhaust in your cooling system. Also make sure there's no oil mixed with your coolant or coolant mixed with your oil. When you fill up your radiator, also fill up the coolant reservoir to the hot level line. GM recommends filling it to the hot level line while the engine is cold to ensure no air gets drawn into the system.
I have a 2002 Impala 3.4 and it is overheating... The water pump and hoses have been replaced, and it seems like the radiator is pretty new, as well. After replacing the water pump, and driving it around the block, it was overheating again and hissing to the drivers side of the engine near/in the vicinity of the air filter hose; the end that is connected to the engine, near the thermostat... Help?
Sounds like a blown intake or head gasket. These engines are known to blow the factory gaskets. Best to do both at the same time while it's being worked on. Do a coolant system pressure test to confirm. VT247
Thank you. How much ya think the gaskets and RTV and whatever else is needed would cost? Worse case scenario? I know the labor is gonna be a bitch.... :(
I'm guessing around $150 for the gaskets, RTV and other parts. Labor depends on who and where you have it done. It's not a really hard job to do, just takes a while. VT247
Mine has had the intake manifold and head gaskets redone. Not smoking and no coolant in oil. Also it's not running hot but I am losing coolant. I can fill up the radiator and start it up and drive it for 15-20 minutes and my low coolant light will come on. I've also changed that sensor as well. Heat works pretty constant. I also have virtually no pressure in the system as I can drive the car like I said and remove radiator cap no problem. Thoughts?
Do a coolant system pressure test. They rent the tool at Autozone. Basically you hook it up and pump up the connector. It applies pressure to the system. Make sure the pressure doesn't drop rapidly. If it does, check for leaks or sounds. VT247
Thank you. This video was very helpful. I'm going to try your method on riding the over heating problem. Hopefully it clears the probpem. Again Thank you
I was changing the coolant temperature sensor in my 2001 malibu and the part that it screws into cracked around the sensor was wondering what the part name is it screws into
Why does my "97" 3.1 litre chevy run hot? I have changed the relays fan blade, fan motor, flushed the radiator, thermostat and water pump. My car had the head gaskets replaced with alluminum at 134.
CZcams notifications of comments aren't showing up like they used to. If this is still an issue, try a coolant system pressure test to see if it holds pressure. They are known to have bad gaskets such as the timing cover, intake and head gaskets. VT247
Seeing that it has an iron block(if I'm not mistaken).. As long as you change fluids religiously and take good care of the top portion of the engine(all aluminum) it has the capacity to go 300,000 miles or more..
Check your fans. While it's idling in park, turn on your ac and see if your fans kick on. If they don't you have a problem some where. I had that problem which was the ac relay which actually poped and prevented my car from starting because it blew a fuse that shares the pcm with the ac. I own a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am SE1 3.4L but these Pontiacs are almost the same if it has the same engine. Mind you i say "Almost" the same. Anyway what i did was pull out the relay block in the fuse box, and replace the blown fuse i had, then manually hooked both fans up to a switch to the battery. This means i can turns the fans on anytime, but i don't have ac. Hope this helped. By the way if you're ac doesn't work and you don't care you can eliminate the ac radiator in front of your actual radiator for more air flow to keep it cool. Mine was already empty so i cut it off. But if its full your supposed to have it professionally emptied.
I purchased an 01 Aztek GT in 2002 and really enjoy this vehicle. Over the last twelve years, the intake manifold and head gaskets have been replaced once. I have a problem with the engine temperature gauge showing an increase in coolant temperature when I'm in city driving conditons. At the same time, the automatic transmission starts "hard" shifting. The cooling fans do not run unless the AC is turned "ON". How do I make the cooling fans turn "ON" without running the AC?
The coolant fans will only turn on when the temp gauge gets pretty high unless you turn on the A/C. You could get a tuner program and reprogram it that way, otherwise it is factory set. Mine does the same thing. VT247
Vacationtime247 Hi, Thanks for the video. I have an 03 Malibu with a 3100 engine. It overheats. I unplugged the coolant sensor temperature and the fans come on. The fans don't come on otherwise. What would you look at next if I know that unplugging the sensor turns the fans on high, fans work and fuse it good? I have not tried to bleed the air out of the cooling system yet because the fans don't come on I figure it is electrical. I have seen suggestions of a secondary fan control however I am not sure how they are wired in or if this is the fix needed. Do you have any feedback on this? www.autozone.com/productComparisons/productComparison.jsp?originalUrl=%2Fcooling-heating-and-climate-control%2Felectric-fan-thermostat%2Fchevrolet%2Fmalibu%2F2003%2F6-cylinders-j-3-1l-sfi-ohv%3F Thank you, Matt
Vacationtime247 Situation- 2001 Aztek runs perfect at highway speed, temp gauge reads normal. Then I slow down for city driving and the temp gauge registers a higher temp (needle moves up "1" mark below the overheat range). At the same time, the computer instructs the transmission to raise line pressure and the transmission begins harsh shifting. I parked the Aztek in the driveway with the motor running and opened the hood. The cooling fans were not running. I measured the coolant temp with an infrared scanner and watched as the temp reached 237 F on the scanner. The cooling fans started running on low speed at 237 F and then stopped (10 seconds). I unplugged the temp sensor and both fans ran on high speed. Why does the computer tell the transmission to go into "limp" mode and start harsh shifting? Is there a sensor that is picking up bad information? The vehicle runs great in cooler weather.
+alvinspmn The transmission is trying to save itself from burning up, this is why it goes into 'limp' mode. Do a pressure test of the coolant system and check for leak down. If it does leak down, listen for a hiss or water / coolant coming out. Sorry to say this, but these 3400 engines have a bad reputation for blown head gaskets. VT247
Hey I have a question I have this motor in my 05 Buick rendezvous and I'm having an overheating issue I'll start driving and it will start over heating in just a couple miles but for some reason if I'm on the freeway it won't over heat until I get off the highway then right away it will over heat again any ideas?
Coolant temp sensor is bad , not turning on fans. At highway speeds the airflow cools down the motor, at idle no air flow. Try turning on ac it overrides sensor and fans should run all the time
Hi I have 2003 Chevy venture don’t know what going on but when I drive I have good heat and the temperature normal but when I park or wait for the red light the temperature gate go up hot and no heat. I put new radiator new water pump new cooling sensor new thermostat and still does the same thing I wonder it have to do with the head gasket please let me know thank you
Yep. Me too. To hell with Chevy Venture and the 3400 v6 engine. Everything said here was spot on. Be prepared for over heat problems and head gasket jobs. Iam junking mine. Just blew gaskets for the 2nd time in 2 years. Stalled on me about 5o ft from my house at a busy intersection. Had hazards on. Still got side swiped. Tore the whole passenger side to hell.
So I have a 2002 aztek, replaced head and intake and valve cover gaskets, new plugs and wires and coil packs, and fuel pressure tested at 44 , so just wanting to verify that the pump is bad car doesn't start, , before I spend the money in getting one an
I have a 2002 pontiac montana with a 3400,replaced the thermostat and still over heating, and head gaskets are good next option is water pump any suggestions?
Do a coolant pressure test. Can do the loan a tool at Autozone. See if it holds pressure. If so, then try the water pump. If not, find the leak and repair as necessary. VT247
02 Venture van 3.4 temp gauge straight up 12:00 should be about 212 deg F. T stat is set for 195 full open . Each increment is about 7 deg first mark is 156 f. Low speed fans on at 220 f to 230 both fans on at AC on or above 230. Red line starts at 254 f Top red line is 268. always use factory OEM T Stat. Wide swings are normal but listen for fans and when ideling on hot days it may go to 3to 4 hash marks past 12 oclock .. I use Prestone , dont mix with Dexcool . Purge the dexcool completely and replace , change about 2 yrs Good luck
Mine tends to take forever before the needle moves into the normal range. Then if I am stuck in traffic on a hot day, the needle moves up quickly to near the red. I suspect a partially stuck thermostat in the open position, but I stripped the bolt so I will not be replacing it. Or it could be just bad design. Since I got this van as a gift, I don't know what it was like when it was new. Every car I have ever driven, the needle of the temp gauge is rock steady once the engine is warm. This one seems to fluctuate wildly.
@@lwh7301 Mine fluctuates quite a bit as well . Take note of my previous post as to temp increments . the fans should come on as I said . Near the RED ouch it can get close but should shut down to 212 straight up once the 2fans cick on . You must find a way to change to an OEM t Stat they are more expensive but if you dont want intake leaks or Headgasket repair you need to address it unless you drive it into the ground . the cooling systems on these vehicles are problematic if you dont keep and eye on them .
@@oldtimedrumcorps The fans do come on, but seeing the needle go up causes anxiety when I am stuck in traffic. Once the van starts moving, the needle drops back down. I doubt the thermostat was ever changed. As you know, it's not the easiest thing to do. I got a Stant thermostat 3 years ago, but stripped the bolt, so I never was able to replace it. The van has over 200K miles, and drives great. I use it only when I need to haul big items. So I may just leave it the way it is, and the van never over-heated, just gave me a scare since I have never seen temp gauges move like that. And if it blows a gasket in the future, then I will surrender it to California for $1500.
@@lwh7301 is the coolant green or brown Try to not mix . dexcool is brown ish leave it and only top with dex cool. Still Dexcool is a problem if air is introduced in the coolant . I would put in a new temp sensor they are not expensive . Sounds like rather than getting too involved you might just run it as long as it hasnt given up the ghost Mine will run up high I put it in park if i sit for a long time . It wll drop about 30deg when if both fans kick on . Hers some fun facts . the first has mark at cool is 153then each is 7deg more at top dead its approx 212 degf in the summer it will be around 212 and move up to as much as 235 before both fans come on it then drops quickly or if i resume driving . BTW I get antsy when it gets up there so i dont like to sit forever at the star bucks window . Good luck
If after running for a while, one radiator hose is very hot and the car overheats but the other hose is cool, the thermostat is probably stuck provided it has sufficient coolant. These engines tend to have issues with the blown gaskets, intake, head and timing cover. A coolant pressure test would be helpful too to find any leaks and see if it holds pressure. VT247
I know this video is years old, but maybe someone can help. 2000 silhouette. The low coolant light goes on and off but there's plenty in the reservoir and radiator. It wants to overheat when idle. No bubbles in the coolant reservoir. No white or milky junk in the oil or the cap. No white exhaust. This lead me to think the gaskets are fine. I'm thinking the thermostat stick closed or coolant temperature gauge might need to be replaced, or maybe there is a clog in the coolant system somewhere? Now I'm wondering if I missed something or there could be a different issue because you state that the thermostat going out isn't all that common. Is there anything else I should be looking for?
I inheirited my mother's 03 rendezvos with the 3400 engine. It's never had anything done to it engine wise, just a ton of front brakes and wheel bearings. When I was bringing it home, the temp gauge flew up to hot and the bell went off and before I could pull over it dropped back down into the normal zone. coolant was low in the radiator about a quart and the overflow was down to where the hose wasn't in the fluid. I don't have any sign of coolant in the oil or any sign that I can find of coolant leak. I've seen a lot of videos on burping the cooling system. I'm hesitant to start tearing it apart without learning more. I also have no heat in the cabin, but tho the engine is at normal operating temp. The blower works on 1,2,4, and 5 and I've seen several people on here saying that heater controls have bad connections resulting in burned off contacts and there is a funny smell, kinda like something is burning. Got any advice for me? Or do you wanna buy a rendezvous cheap? lol
Fill the radiator and reservoir up with fluid with engine cool. Start the motor and bring to operating temp. Turn out the 7mm bolt on top of the coolant neck or on top of the water pump (that black metal pipe). Let the air bleed out and tighten the screw. That should let the heater blow warm air. VT247
Thank you for the information. I have a question on my 2004 impala 3.4 engine. Besides the loss of antifreeze I recently noticed a large loss of oil that I had to add, when this engine previously had no oil usage problems. Can a bad intake gasket cause this? I do suspect a bad head gasket though.
Hello. So what did you do to make money? did you buy really cheap cars off of like ebay or something, and you painted them, made them look better and then sold them on ebay for higher price? i like cars and would love painting them and making profit.
Work as a nurse for a steady job. But flipping cars was a second income that paid well. Haven't sold a car in over a year now though. We moved west to California and are enjoying the easy life. Went to Ivy Tech and got my associates degree in automotive service tech. Spent a lot of time learning the art of buying low and selling high from my friends and employers. Cheap running and driving cars is where it's at though. Everyone's looking for a cheap reliable car. VT247
Vacationtime247 I watched your video on doing a head gasket on a 3400 engine. I noticed that you torqed the head bolts down to 65 ft lbs. I have a manual for my 3400, that says 37 ft lbs, plus a 90 degree angle turn. 65 ft lbs is a big difference from 37. So my question is what do you think about this. Im currently working on one, and wanted the best advice possible, to avoid a unsuccessful job. Hit me back asap if you can, thanks.
agvariety I went with 60-65 ft lbs on the head bolts. I'm aware of what the manual states with the torque then angle. Never had an issue with just torquing it down. Wanted a strong hold for years to come. I've done a few of these jobs now and they're all still running strong. VT247
Vacation time, my 3.4 l8tr 2004 grand am overheats but the gauge doesn't reflect that. I believe the gauge works cause it move between 190-215 degrees. But steam is coming out from under my hood sometimes. What do you think?
Get a lot of these type of questions about this engine, so here's where I'd start if it were mine. Do a coolant system pressure test after filling up the overflow with water. Once pressurized, listen and watch for water to come out. Bet that a gasket is blown and it's leaking somewhere. Replaced the head, intake and timing cover gasket on nearly every GM 3400 I've had. VT247
I don't know why I can't see my previous message. Anyway, what is the cable that you touch with your finger for in the min. 5:27? in my 2002 venture the right side cable is loose and I can't see the other part, which has a white plastic part. thanks
had a crankshaft pulley go bad replaced it and the car began to shake under a load. Started throwing a knock sensor code replaced knock sensor and pigtail pulled the pulley back off and replaced crankshaft sensor. still shaking throwing knock sensor code. Actually runs better if i unplug the knock sensor but still shakes
My fans won't come on. Temp gauge works and shows up past center, but fans won't come on. I can remove the top of the relay and push them down and force the fans on high. So motor/fuse/wire is ok. what controls the fans relay? great vid
Does the fan come on when you turn on your A/C? The fans won't come on until the temp gauge is way up. I can let my Aztek (3400 engine) idle for what seems like forever and the fans don't come on. This is because the engine isn't overheating. Does yours overheat with coolant coming out the reservoir? If so, then it may be that the fans aren't operating correctly. Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor, it can be difficult to reach as it's a tight squeeze. This should turn on the fans as well as it is a default for the computer. But, to answer your question, the coolant temperature sensor reads the temp as being high, sends a signal to the computer (ECM, electronic control module), the ECM sends a reference signal for the relay to activate, the relay then sends the fan 12 volts to run and turn on. Hope this helps. : ) VT247
Right, I used to run the a/c to keep the fans on. The a/c doesn't work now, so the fans won't come on ever now. I bypassed the relay and run a switch to run them manually. Guess I need to see the ecm signal to the relay to prove ecm good. Thanks for responding!
Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor and turn the car on. If the fans come on, they're working fine. If not, there's a problem. The coolant temp sensor is located by / under where the throttle cable hooks to and by the upper radiator hose. VT247
i have a 2005 buick rendezvous 3.4 it seems to over heat after about 30 to 45 min. ive changed the temp. sensor thermostats. an the fans not to sure if my fans kick in properly when i turn ac on they seem to kick in with more speed oil is good no smoke comes out from the exhaust
got a good on for you blew the head gaskets so I put new head new thermostat new water pump new radiator new Cadillac converter new starter new alternator had fans check they are good and still over heats some times driving and some times parked I'm stumped
Hey i have a question about over heating it doesnt over heat completly goes about 3 fourths of the way then goes back down once fans kick on but i believe i have a slow leak where the bleeder is mext to the water pump l.. What type of sealer should i use on that o ring
If you're referring to the metal tube that has the bleeder on, it has an o ring. I took mine off, cleaned it and also added some black silicone around it. Didn't leak anymore after. But, might do a coolant pressure test to find any other leaks and see if it holds pressure after. VT247
right on thanks guys! no wonder it wouldn't take more than like a quart of water after it vented at least a gallon into the overflow. it has been sitting since my last post and for the record Vacationtime knows his stuff. Nobody wants to accept that their car has blown a gasket but that ended up being the case with this montana as well. Another one bites the dust! may as well count on any of these v6's to blow at some point and if you get 200kmi+ out of one, consider yourself good a PM tech. anybody interested in picking up this blown out soccer mom/ G ride for a steal of a deal in UT let me know
I have a 2003 chevy impala with the 3400. The other day the low oil pressure light kept dinging. Well i ignored it cause it's been doing that since I had the oil changed last month. So as i was driving the car became a little warm, not hot enough for me to stop tho and i was almost home so I kept going and then all of a sudden a mile from my house it acted as if it didn't want to go. I put my foot on the gas and had it pushed down to the floor and the spedometer just kept going down, then the cars temp went way up in no time and the check engine light started to flash. Thankfully I was almost home, so i pulled over and shut the car off. I popped the hood as a red light popped up that said hot coolant temp. Well i let it cool and walked home. When I came back that evening after a couple hours, I added coolant and water, went to start the car and it just cranked but didn't start. So after sitting and waiting it still woi ldnt start and now its like my battery has completely drained. Even after leaving it on the battery charger, I take it off and it's like it was never on there. I try to start it once or twice and all the lights go dead again. Even after 2 days of me trying to start it, still no start. And no leaks. The radiator is full the overflow tank is where it needs to be, and no leaks coming from anywhere. Now it has all that in it and hasn't been able to get it started to run so I can bleed the valves. Please help. ..
I still have one of them with only three hundred and fifteen thousand miles on it never had a problem my other all the land like jumped out and is that had 475000 on it Delran but the body was falling apart
you are also knowledgable on these engines. i did my head gasket job back in 2010 70k and an in car partial rebuild of my 160k trans. (clutch pack, sun gear, 4th gear, chain, bands) needed for a failed sun gear and work clutch packs) when i used to put my car in gear, there would be a slap - turns out there also was no hardened chain in the trans, and it stretched, and caused that annoying slap. anywho, something worth mentioning is that GM recommends to keep the surge tanks filled up to full hot when the car is cold. this is extra insurance against the surge hose sucking in air on a slow coolant leak and causing hot spots that can damage the head gaskets. i had my 3400 in my Chevy Venture van since new in 2002 and only have ~185,000 as of May 29, 2020
My 2002 Oldsmobile Alero has the 3400, My cooling fans do not come on when engine is hot nor when I turn on the A/C. When I unplug the temp sensor the fans with come on immediately and stay on. I still replaced the temp sensor but that did nothing.
How high does the temp get? Mine usually has to be over the 3/4 mark for the temp. My advice would be to hook the car up to a good OBDII scanner and see if you can turn on the fans. Might be that it's not getting a reference signal to turn on the relays that control the fans. VT247
+Vacationtime247 All the service lights are on... security light... odometer reads error sometimes.. fuel pump doesn't engage.. engine doesn't crank with ignition but will when you jump it with the starter absolutely no scanner will connect and all the lights pulse - dash radio.. everything inside none of this happened until we replaced head gasket...
Ash D Check that the grounds are connected of course. Also check the battery, my Aztek will drain the battery if I don't drive it for a few weeks. When the battery low, my dash does the same thing.
+Vacationtime247 where are the ground connections at? I know about the main ground that goes to the negative battery cable, but do you know where the others are? A friend of mine had some shade tree mechanic replace the head gaskets on her 2002 Rendezvous but since then she can't get it to start...
+Ash D There are a few grounds by the passenger headlight. Also check that the primary ground is secured to the block and not through aluminum. For a quick check, run a set of jumpers from a good ground source to the end of the primary ground wire.
i have the 3400 when its idleing in drive it gets hot and than goes back to the cold side but it dont over heat it actually runs goood and another thing the code p0401 keeps poping up i changed the egr valve and it stilll pops up thanks alot besafe always have a great beautyful day
Do a coolant system pressure test to check for any leaks in the system. Could just need the air bled out and coolant topped off. The EGR 0401 code is likely carbon build up in the passages. Take off the throttle body and EGR. Run a hard wire down the port and clean it up, suck out the carbon that comes down through the intake.
VT247
it does leak a little coolant but im not sure if thats it and egr valve im trying to do that im to sure how but ill try thanks
You are a sanity saver! I got my '04 Aztek last August as a gift & since February I've had a plethora of issues that I've had to fix. Mostly normal, high-mileage, old-car issues except for the few remaining weird, pull-your-hair-out issues that have had me quite batty. Thanx to this video, as well as comments and replies, I now know what to do. And for the first time in awhile, I am eager and ecstatic to be spending the next couple days in the garage. Thank you so very much for sharing!
I wish I saw this before I changed my thermostat and water pump. Thank u
My fans were just broken I just wired a speaker wire to the sensor and to the fan fuse. They kicked right back on.
Glad that worked! Sometimes it’s just something easy.
VT247
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, by 2003 aztek overheated and left me stranded, Now that I have it back in my garage and after watching your video I am confident its the head gasket. I will be watching your other videos and tackling it myself, Thank you again for being the type of person who helps put knowledge like this out there for people like me.
Whos in Connecticut got a number 💲💲💲for me 04 3.4 monte Carlo 😂 thanks for the 🎥🤙✌
Good luck finding a replacement motor. Might consider replacing all the gaskets (head, intake and timing cover) before dropping a new one in. Could save some headache later on down the road.
VT247
Mine is leaking from there too! thought it was the thermostat but no. Thanks
Bubbles too from the container lol
Mine is at 223,000miles got it at 173k and not major problems but breaks and battery
So a coolant system pressure test to see exactly where the leak is. Hope this helps!
VT247
What is that hose you pointed to saying it can cause a vacuum leak
Not sure what the name of it is. There’s a rubber grommet that the vacuum tubing goes into that fastens to the upper intake. Make sure it is fully seated and secure. Might have to remove the metal throttle cable bracket to see or fix though.
VT247
My 3400 ran hot for 2 years. I changed the thermostat now its perfect
I have a 2002 Chevrolet impala 3.4L that overheats when going up mountainous roads during summer. Coolant is level, fans work, thermostat works as it should, new coolant pump, and just has coolant system pressure test done but can't figure out the problem. Live in Southwest Virginia
Sounds like you've covered all your bases. When you say it overheats, does it puke out the overflow tank? If not, then it may just be getting hot but not necessarily overheating. Only other suggestion would be to make sure there aren't any blockages in front of the radiator. May try pressure washing to clear the venting fins.
VT247
Our mechanic said the aftermarket oem quality water pumps are garbage on these engines. We had the same problem. The intake was leaking and the gaskets were replaced. Then the Gates water pump failed after just one year. The water pump caused overheating again, and it blew a head gasket. The top end was rebuilt, and a GM Goodwrench water pump installed. Since then no problems, and that was five years ago.
Whats is the normal operating range on the temperature gauge. I am usually at the 11 oclock and 12 oclock in city driving. But around 1 on highway driving. Thank you for any information
Temp is right in the middle. 4t65e seems to desire a few degrees less temp; Ive got mercon atf. ( The normal 2005 atuff) My 4t65e hard shifts (thumps) at temp.
So, Q: Any guess? Maybe it is an ATF viscosity at temp? How can I get a few degrees less temp? Maybe some ATF thickener like STP.
I am thinking of using 160 stat and hard wiring radiator fan to 100%. Id really like to stop the trans to stop slaming shifts. Kinda think that holding temp at 160 will fix it. I do appreciate your thoughts! Old Timer Richard.
Check for vacuum leaks. Had this problem in the past with bad shifts and a leaking vacuum hose. Might check the mass air flow sensor too.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 I suspect I had an air lock in cooling system. The 4t65e needs the correct temp. to function well due to its advancing age.
Getting the air out w the bleed screws looks like all it needed.
If troubles are marginal, I will add an aft market trans cooler.
I do think my valve body needs care due to wear and blow by.
Theory is the cooler will keep the viscosity up by preventing excess thinning of atf fluid.
Thanks for your knowledge.
Hey my buddy replaced his thermostat in his overheating 2001 Buick century. Now when he tries to start it up it cranks but won't actually start then possibly a back fire or burp.. what should I look at first to address this? Probably occurred during poor mechanic work
Sounds like a wire or plug in didn’t get put back. Look for loose or broken connectors.
VT247
You basicly named like 3 issues im currently dealing with. And thanks to you i have a better understanding how i can fix them. Ty
I never had a problem
what is the two censer on the front of the motor one of my want stay hooked up
Believe the two you would be referring to is the knock sensor and an oil pressure sensor.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 they are on a venture van
@@buddyroper1174 If you're looking at the motor from the front of the van. There will be a couple wires going to two sensors. The one on the left would be the knock sensor. To the right, under the exhaust manifold, is the oil pressure sensor.
VT247
Ok thanks I hate working on these motors lol
Only paid $900 for my GM and drove it 1500 miles straight, but have already replaced the windshield, alternator, thermostat, and God knows what will come next as it is now overheating.
If the engine is overheating, as most all of them do eventually, best to replace all the gaskets. Timing cover, head and intake gaskets as well.
VT247
I ran a direct wire and removed my thermostat put some blue devil and it's been running good for 2 years with no engine problems
2000 chevy malibu Ls 3100v6
helo… what do you mean by direct wire .. I have a 2001 3.4 L Impala and troubles with overheating ..can you help me with that ?
@@cathybowen.Shelly ty Cathy.. hope that will fix it...
@@cathybowen.Shelly was your temp gauge reading normally before replacing the sensor? Or was it always reading all the way cold or hot?
Jw, I think I'm having the same issue with my van...
@@cathybowen.Shelly is that the sensor right at the thermostat neck?
Excellent Video! More information than I expected. Thank you,
Thank you so much i have an 2003 alero & im dealing with this same problem again it ran hot but instead of getting a regular 3400 motor head i got an super charge. & it started over heating & misfiring so when i pour water into it its comes out the motor head.
Wonder if one or more of the head bolts got stripped out. But the head has to mate with the block right or else it will certainly spew water all over. The GM 3400's had problem with their gaskets. Best to rebuild the entire thing with new gaskets if your doing one. Because eventually, the head, timing cover and intake gasket will all eventually leak.
VT247
My alero olds mobile 3 .400 iput tomany parts and he stil. Miss fire cilinder 1 but i pull the spark plug out its oil an the spark plug some people said is the head gasket can't you answer my question please
i have a 2003 venture. i had a blown head gasket. changed gaskets,radiator,cooler thermostat, cooler sensor. coolant ,oil, put sea form. the coolant is backing up in reservoir and trying to over flow. now car won't start now smelling gas. need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have a p0300 with a p0137 any ideas?
Thank you so much for this through break down. I wish I saw this video a long time ago. Would have saved me so much money, time, and heartache
Buenos tardes mi ciobetaces una pontiac montana 3.4 2001 y tiene revoluciones inestables en baja por favor alluda
X 2
5.17.14. The Dexcool coolant will degrade the L.I.M. Gaskets, along with the head gaskets if the coolant is not completely drained from the system. The engine block has drain plugs for both cylinder banks. The back bank drain plug is located between cylinders 3 & 5, & is difficult to access. People go way too long on the coolant service of the system. 2yr/30k miles is what I go. Also the EGR passage port in the upper intake manifold clogs up with carbon, causing a poor or stalling idle. I pulled my engines L.I.M. Off at 82k miles and the L.I.M. Gaskets were just showing slight signs of degrading, not leaking yet. I decided to pull the heads off to inspect the head gaskets. I found that the Dexcool was degrading the head gasket where the opening for the coolant in the block met the opening in the head! It was not leaking yet, but would have in time! I use Fel-Pro metal framed L.I.M. Gaskets & SD head gaskets. Another source of oil leaking is the oil pump drive O-ring located near the flywheel end of the block.
Steven Sapyak this guy hit it dead on!
What kinda coolant you use I use 50/50 universal antifreeze
I got lucky. Previous owner changed intake gaskets and did green coolant. Still going (knock on wood)
Yep you hit it right on the head! The previous owner of my 04 grand am 3.4 had changed over from the orange dexcool to the green and saved all the gaskets that way! I got lucky, unfortunately the transmission has issues after it warms up from freeway speeds. When i come to a stop it shifts hard into the next gear all the way to fourth, so i feather it as well as power shift to shift it sooner so it lands a softer shift.
@@johnanderson5500 if you can, hook up a scantool and monior data, see if the mass air readings and everything is correct. Shift strategy ,etc use a lot of Inputs
Ive got the evap issue should i start with the evap solenoid over the gas tank or the part by the throttle body the o2 sensors are reading bad also figured that was because of the evap letting out bad emissions too much unburnt fuel the 3.1 liter 2002 buick century has 85,000 miles on it
Check inside the upper intake where the EGR bolts on. They are prone to carbon up real bad there through the passages. Another evap issue I once had was the check engine light would come on due to a bad FTPS (fuel tank pressure sensor. It's located on top of the tank, but can be reached under the vehicle.
VT247
Is the motor you just went over an Impala or something different. I couldn't get a good look at it. But it look like an SUV...
This motor was in an Aztek. But they put the same engine in the Impala for many years. Often GM puts the same motor in several different vehicles.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 Thank you so much for replying. Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. The inevitable happened yesterday as a Matter of fact. It was running really hot when I picked my son up from school yesterday.. and didn't make it a quarter mile until it had gotten so hot that it shut down on me as I was driving. Thank goodness I was able to get the car pulled off on the side of the road. I have been so frustrated with it that I haven't even bothered to go back to it and try to see if it will back. I would say I that I probably messed it for good. But again, Thank you so much for ur help.
@@brandiehoward8943 Aw that stinks. Not fun when a car completely self destructs. Hope you find a reliable replacement : )
VT247
Excellent help Video. It solved my Headache I haave had for A few years. Thanks.
I push coolant into the radiator with the coolant exchanger (under light pressure) till coolant comes out of both bleeders. Found it the fastest way to get air out. I am at the point I have to do the gaskets though
Do all the gaskets while you're in there. Like the timing chain gasket as well.
VT247
I did the water pump and tried bleeding out the from the valves and no luck it overheats but not always just sometimes
Do a coolant system pressure test. My guess is that there is a leak somewhere. Check the oil, make sure it doesn't look like a milkshake inside. These motors had bad gaskets all around, the intake, timing cover and head gaskets always eventually blow out on these engines.
VT247
Have 2003 grand am gt 3.4, started missing, sounded like a knock but was firing it seemed inside intake behind Throttle body. Code is mb ass air flow and #3 misfire. Put on new cool, spark plug, still missing.
Any info on the 2003 Pontiac 3.4 misfire please respond, rutnbuck8@gmail
Might be a stripped out rocker arm bolt. On some 3400 the threads are not very strong and a small bolt that goes into the aluminum head. Would explain the knock and would also explain the misfire. Take a piece of rubber tubing, put one end where the sound is coming from. The other end to your ear and listen near the valve cover. You can drill and helicoil the stripped out bolt for a fix. Hope this helps.
VT247
I am ignorant to these things. So plz be nice. If a person has a blown head gasket. Is that something you have to buy brand new or could a person go to a junkyard or a person that has one they are parting out. Could a used head gasket from another work as good. Or is that a part that has to be bought brand new.
Head Gaskets are a one time use item for these engines. The entire gasket set for this motor is less than $100. What costs so much is all the labor and replacing broken bolts when doing a head gasket job. The head gasket is something that needs to be bought new.
VT247
Wow I have been messing with my 97 Venture on and off forever! When it runs...IT RUNS!....I learned SO much from this one video about my Mertha...Do you recommend any sources that are HARD CORE Venture specific? New tuck is toooo expensive right now!
Blown head gasket need step by step replacing it
Thank you so much, I will do that today. Also I was told to loosen header exhaust bolts that converters was bad for going bad on those, I did check the exhaust and could not hardly feel much exhaust. So I'm guessing I will be trying both today. I will let you know how it turns out, thank you agian car friend.
I've cut out a section just behind the cat converter and then used a hammer and pry bar to bust up the material inside. Then blow it out by starting the car a few times. If after cleaning out the cat, the secondary O2 sensor reads low or wrong voltage, add in a spark plug non fouler to the end of the secondary O2 sensor. Drill out the inside of the non fouler so the O2 sensor screws on inside. Will keep the code from setting.
VT247
the 3.1l didn't so much have head gasket issues but it dose have intake gasket issues. I hade to replace the lower intake gasket on my 91 Pontiac 6000. he'll of a motor though. ran the shit out if it everyday and when I traded it in it had 315,000 miles on it and it still ran like a top
Here's one for you:
2000 Silhouette 3.4 was overheating. Replaced t-stat because it was sticking. Purged air using a hose tee on the heater hoses and raising it above the rest of the system. Purge, fill, repeat until there was no air left to purge. Both fans operating. No white or otherwise unusual exhaust smoke.
Engine ran great, heater was hot, temp gauge fluctuated but stayed generally in the middle. Took it on the highway for about 5 miles at 50-55 mph and began to hit the red zone. Tried using 3rd gear to accelerate coolant flow but that didn't seem to have an effect. Engine started to lose power as I pulled off highway. Slowly opened hose tee to see if there was air in there again, and there was a lot. Released steam slowly for about 5 minutes, then started it back up and drove it home. Had to release steam two more times to make it home.
Possible diagnoses:
1.) Head gasket dumping exhaust into the coolant and pressurizing it, but if that were true wouldn't there be white exhaust smoke?
2.) Water pump not moving coolant fast enough and it's boiling.
3.) Radiator plugged with rust and Dex-Kill goo.
4.) I didn't really get all the air out.
Pretty sure it's a blown head gasket. These engines are known for gasket failures. Might try a coolant system pressure test and see if it holds pressure. Could try a chemical test and check for exhaust gases in the coolant. It's a blue dye that changes color in the presence of exhaust gases.
If you do have to fix the head gaskets, do the entire engine, timing cover, head and intake. They all go out eventually on these motors.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 Forgot to say I did go to AutoZone and rent a pressure test kit. It held 16 psi as long as I could hold on the GM cap that didn't fit perfectly. A full 60 seconds maybe; didn't get a chance to fix the cap issue. I was also thinking of the chemical test.
If it's a head gasket, I don't have the time or space, and we'll just hock the van on craigslist and try and get $400 for it.
Hello. Basic cost to do the head gaskets and intake manifold gasket job ??? To help with overheating
Depends on the shop. It's certainly not an easy job!
VT247
Well the oil doesn't look milky so I don't think it's a head gasket but at idle when it starts getting hot coolant fluid wants to go out the over fill tube and at idle with Reservoir cap off it just starts bubbling have any ideas
Usually when the oil looks milky, it's because of the intake manifold has failed. Allowing coolant and oil to mix. You should consider a chemical test to check for a bad head gasket. Basically looks like a squeeze tube that has a blue chemical inside that turns yellow in the presence of exhaust gases. Place it on top of the coolant reservoir before it boils over to 'sniff' the fumes from the bubbles. That or try a coolant leakdown test. Basically you fasten the tool to the radiator cap (with the engine cool) and pump it up. The cooling system should hold @15 psi and not drop fast. If it does, look for leaks or hissing indicating a bad gasket. The gaskets on these engines will all go out eventually. If you're doing one, do them all. Intake, head and timing cover. Saves time and effort in the long run.
VT247
I have a 1999 Silhouette with 300,000 on the vehicle, replaced trans and engine around 150,000. I intend to drive it until I replace it with a flying saucer :) . I made a modification to the coils and wiring to make it easier to access. I straightened the L-shaped aluminum mount upon which the coils and ignition module rest, then mounted them on top of the intake manifold. It still clears the hood, but makes it much easier to get all those parts in case the coils or module fail. I came about this because a had a no start, that seemed as if it was an ignition module, but turned out it was a broken wire from the crankshaft position sensor. I am prepared to fix this on the roadside, so I try to keep spares with me for things that often break.
I have an 04 Chevy Venture that every time I try to put gas in it, the pump clicks off. It literally takes me 20 minutes to get 3/4 of a tank of gas before I finally give up. Is there a quick fix for this?
Probably the charcoal cannister not venting.
VT247
That is one of the best videos I've seen , lots of good info . Thanks for sharing it .
TheReaper!
Bought a Impala new in 2000. Highly maintained it. 130,000. Both heads cracked. New loaded GM heads were a good deal. Lucky the colant leaked into the combustion chamber.no Water in the oil. Took me 3 days to install both heads. Getting slower at 58 years old.
No kidding. Not getting any younger myself. Used to be able to work all night on a car then wake up and do it all over again. Now, the ol' back makes me pay for any work done the day before. lol
VT247
58 is getting old! 🤔🙄🤭 I turned 80 last week. I bought an 06 Buick Terraza with 3.5 cheap because it started to overheat. I tried everything short of gaskets. Nothing worked. No cream on rad cap or dipstick, or oil on surface of coolant. There's combustion gas in cooling system, so I am now half way to complete. Got FelPro gasket set. In Missouri it's a bit warm to work on cars outside. My heads are not cracked or warped, so almost ready to put everything back together. I don't think I'll be able to do this many more years. Most of 3 days so far. Hope to drive it within a week.
Very informative, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a question about my 2000 3.4l Impala. I'm having a problem with the bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor. The scan tool I'm using shows a negative reading during live data. I have another Impala (2003) 3.8l and it says the same thing on sensor 1 bank 1. I was just wondering if it's a common issue or if I'm doing something wrong. I've replaced the sensors, I've used cheap o2 sensors and I've used expensive ones but it still doesn't help.
This type of problem. Would it cost your radiator cap to be hard to open up. My radiator cap is stuck and I can't get it open.
yes, it is getting too much pressure from the cylinder pressure leaking in caused by a leaking head gasket.
I have an 03 silhouette. Last year i did a head gasket replacment due to engine over heating. Our one means of transportation. Ran top notch till it all of a sudden threw a po303 code. Cylinder three multiple Misfire. Spark pkug and wires and coils all check out ok. Issue is when you try to accelerate it tries to bog down. Check engine light startd to flash. Once gas pedal is released engine light eventually goes back to solid on. Checked ohm reading on the fuel injectors and got 11.6 on #3 and #1. Still main mode if transportation so any and all feedback is welcome. Thanks
Here's what I'd check if it were mine. Getting to the injectors can be difficult. Check each injector with a noid light, make sure it's getting power. While it's dark outside, mist water around all the area's of the #3 cylinder and make double sure it's not the spark system. Had coils that look good but are cracked and will throw blue sparks if there is a mist of water around it, causing it to misfire. Might swap the coil pack and wire to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. Could try tapping on the #3 injector to see if the idle changes. Just a few suggestions.
VT247
Vacationtime247 thanks. I tried swapping coils and it still had same code. Its hard to grt to the injectors like you said so how would you suggest reaching them with plenum on?
at idle there really is not much of a mis that is noticeable. But I will try the water trick to see if spark is jumping out of #3 coil area. Stay tuned...
I got a 2003 montana and?it is?over heating. It looks like it is coing from right under the exhaust manifold. Almost like its coming from the moter from underneath and it just poirs out. The is no water in the oil but it dont want to start at all now
Sounds like a bad head gasket. These engines are known to have bad factory gaskets. Fill up the radiator and do a coolant pressure test. Can get the loan a tool from Autozone. Water will shoot out from where the leak is and will be easy to spot.
VT247
I've got a heap of a 1997 oldsmobile HELL-OH-ET with the 3400 engine and it is leaking coolant from the passenger side of the engine . I think it is coming out somewhere by the water pump or tensioner pulley assembly but i can't see for sure . I do know it's not coming from the radiator or the hoses. It's almost seeming to be accumulating on the face of the water pump pulley and getting spattered on to the radiator and the control arm etc , but it seems like it's barely accumulating when I'm parked and the engine is idling. I believe driving is when it leaks the worst due to there being alot of coolant in the areas i specified when i popped the hood to inspect the sweet coolant smell i smelt when we were driving it home . There is no coolant in the oil and no bubbles in the reservoir and the heater works great , i just replaced the temp. Control sensor and bled the system properly . If you have any suggestions my email is canjojohn02@gmail.com and i would appreciate any suggestions at all . Thank you , sincerely ,Rod
Thank you for all the info. I have a 2003 olds alero with the 3400 and it has been overheating but it also has been throttleing on it own. I will be going 45 let off the gas and it stays at 45. So my wonderful mechanic first had me buy a water pump then the temp sensor and he was sending me to get a thermostat when i noticed that neither of tye fans where running and it was well above temp at this point. So i check fuses and cleaned relays but fans still dont work. What do u think. And i checked the oil cap and dip stick and do not see any white residue nor can i spot a leak when u showed to look. I truly appreciate your help.
Bleed the system of air. If it runs fine for a while then overheats along with again having air in the system, it's probably a bad head gasket. Might try a system pressure test to confirm. As far as the staying at the same speed, check for vacuum leaks and if the throttle body is closing all the way. To test if the fans work, unplug the temp sensor and they should come on, but this will trigger a code. Yet, it's a quick easy way to tell if the fans are working.
VT247
Vacationtime247 WOW man I didnt really think you would respond. I wasnt sure like how old your stuff was. I really appreciate it. I think my biggest problem in the situation was the guy who I thought was a mechanic but it turns out he is good and putting on new parts which if i had a garage full of tools and CZcams i could probably do. So today an old newer friend of mine called me and i totally forgot he us a certified mechanic and works at a shop. So he looked it over today and tomorrow he is going to take it and fix all this crap. I will pass on your info. He did say that i definitely have to buy a tensioner pulley because he could actually see it moving around and its possible that was causeing the throttle issue. And once again I really appreciate it it's good to know that I can reach out to someone if i have anymore issues.
Thanks for the great video.. at 2:05, when you're pointing out the intake temperature air sensor, there is a small 90 degree hose that also goes into the intake and is followed into a hole in the engine around back. it's fairly short, about 12 - 14 inches. Do you know what it's called and what it's for? I broke mine while removing the intake in the middle of winter and it was fairly brittle. I spliced it back together with a flexible clear braided PVC hose until I can find a part number. I'm hoping it's not damaging because it's also PVC. but I'm not driving the vehicle at the moment until I'm sure. Thanks for your help.
+Rahim D. That tube is for crankcase fumes to be recirculated back through the engine. Not sure if it's got an exact name. PCV crossover tube. As long as it has a good seal and doesn't have any vacuum leaks it's good. Might have to get a replacement from a junkyard.
VT247
Ahh that makes sense... Thank so much
04 rendezvous overheats, blowing cold air in the cabin and smell a lil burnt sometimes from the engine.
Thank you for sharing ....My friend just baught one i can hear loud ticking. As a friend ill share the info......A viewer from MEXICO......
My 2000 Grand Am SE is ticking also the code reader read misfire
I tell you man those engines are a piece of work ,I drive a 03 Chevy venture sometimes drive me crazy
No doubt. If you get a vehicle with one of these engines, plan on replacing all the gaskets.
VT247
Vacationtime247 Got a 3.4 V6 in my Grand Am no issues has 140,000 you guys most not know how to look after your motors
I have a 2000 Impala w/ 3.4 and it seems work as far as morning startup and running the heater, however when you look at the temp gauge it will be 165 or so and only one time I put coolant in was when we found a cut or bad area to the overflow eank at the radiator, we cut off the bad area and replaced no more leak. But yesterday I had to make a road trip of about 60 miles oneway going down know problem 59 outside temp, coming back 72 outside, about 175 on temp gauge and when we got 12 miles from home the message center flashed LOW COOLANT LEVEL, I pulled off the road and checked coolant tank and it was 4 or 5 in down from top, both hoses had pressure and never got to midrange temp untill I got home. I checked levels the next day and everything was fine. Now the Service Engine light in the message center is always on, been reset I dont know how many times, got it on a big computer and the only thing he could find was a BCM maybe bad or what have you, but the system itself is fine. Would the BCM cause something like I mentioned ??? The car sit for 2 years, because the lady bought a new car (traveling nurse) The gas cap doesnt stay tight, the radiator cap (looks) like it could be replaced (but not leaking that I know of) As far as water pump or thermostat I dont have a clue. Im disabled and I needed a car and was given this one, but I cant afford any big repairs. Can you PLEASE HELP ME ??? Thanks
There may be a coolant level sensor on the car, may be faulty. Also try adding fluid all the way up and then bleed the air out of the system when the car is at operating temp. There should be two bleeders. One on top of the water pump, the other on top of the water neck outlet by the thermostat.
VT247
On my Venture, the coolant level sensor is on the end of the radiator below the radiator cap. If the coolant level is 4 or 5 inches down, then the coolant level sensor should be signalling low level, which in your case it did. I recommend using a spill-free funnel for bleeding the air out of the cooling system. That's what I use and it works great. You should do a coolant pressure test though to check for leaks. You should also check to make sure the head gasket isn't blown. Use a combustion leak tester to determine if there's exhaust in your cooling system. Also make sure there's no oil mixed with your coolant or coolant mixed with your oil. When you fill up your radiator, also fill up the coolant reservoir to the hot level line. GM recommends filling it to the hot level line while the engine is cold to ensure no air gets drawn into the system.
I have a 2002 Impala 3.4 and it is overheating... The water pump and hoses have been replaced, and it seems like the radiator is pretty new, as well. After replacing the water pump, and driving it around the block, it was overheating again and hissing to the drivers side of the engine near/in the vicinity of the air filter hose; the end that is connected to the engine, near the thermostat... Help?
Sounds like a blown intake or head gasket. These engines are known to blow the factory gaskets. Best to do both at the same time while it's being worked on. Do a coolant system pressure test to confirm.
VT247
Thank you. How much ya think the gaskets and RTV and whatever else is needed would cost? Worse case scenario? I know the labor is gonna be a bitch.... :(
I'm guessing around $150 for the gaskets, RTV and other parts. Labor depends on who and where you have it done. It's not a really hard job to do, just takes a while.
VT247
thanks for all the information...greatly appreciated...keep em coming......you the man...
Mine has had the intake manifold and head gaskets redone. Not smoking and no coolant in oil. Also it's not running hot but I am losing coolant. I can fill up the radiator and start it up and drive it for 15-20 minutes and my low coolant light will come on. I've also changed that sensor as well. Heat works pretty constant. I also have virtually no pressure in the system as I can drive the car like I said and remove radiator cap no problem. Thoughts?
Do a coolant system pressure test. They rent the tool at Autozone. Basically you hook it up and pump up the connector. It applies pressure to the system. Make sure the pressure doesn't drop rapidly. If it does, check for leaks or sounds.
VT247
Thank you. This video was very helpful. I'm going to try your method on riding the over heating problem. Hopefully it clears the probpem. Again Thank you
I was changing the coolant temperature sensor in my 2001 malibu and the part that it screws into cracked around the sensor was wondering what the part name is it screws into
Why does my "97" 3.1 litre chevy run hot? I have changed the relays fan blade, fan motor, flushed the radiator, thermostat and water pump. My car had the head gaskets replaced with alluminum at 134.
CZcams notifications of comments aren't showing up like they used to. If this is still an issue, try a coolant system pressure test to see if it holds pressure. They are known to have bad gaskets such as the timing cover, intake and head gaskets.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 I appreciate your help. My car holds anti freeze would you still presume a pressure link still exists?
Dex cool antifreeze causes the intake manifold leaks
Research shows it's to air mixing with Dexcool that causes issues. Fill the overflow bottle to the HOT mark and keep it there so engine sucks no air.
hey guy. 2000 alero. 3400. changed wires and plugs. car doesnt idle correctly still will not start also unless gas pedal is to the floor
check fuel pressure, might be the filter or pressure regulator
Seeing that it has an iron block(if I'm not mistaken).. As long as you change fluids religiously and take good care of the top portion of the engine(all aluminum) it has the capacity to go 300,000 miles or more..
Thank you, this has helped me a lot.
I'm currently having an issue with my 2004 Chevy venture it over heats and goes from warn to hot when u get up to a certain speed
Check your fans. While it's idling in park, turn on your ac and see if your fans kick on. If they don't you have a problem some where. I had that problem which was the ac relay which actually poped and prevented my car from starting because it blew a fuse that shares the pcm with the ac. I own a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am SE1 3.4L but these Pontiacs are almost the same if it has the same engine. Mind you i say "Almost" the same. Anyway what i did was pull out the relay block in the fuse box, and replace the blown fuse i had, then manually hooked both fans up to a switch to the battery. This means i can turns the fans on anytime, but i don't have ac. Hope this helped. By the way if you're ac doesn't work and you don't care you can eliminate the ac radiator in front of your actual radiator for more air flow to keep it cool. Mine was already empty so i cut it off. But if its full your supposed to have it professionally emptied.
I purchased an 01 Aztek GT in 2002 and really enjoy this vehicle. Over the last twelve years, the intake manifold and head gaskets have been replaced once.
I have a problem with the engine temperature gauge showing an increase in coolant temperature when I'm in city driving conditons. At the same time, the automatic transmission starts "hard" shifting. The cooling fans do not run unless the AC is turned "ON". How do I make the cooling fans turn "ON" without running the AC?
The coolant fans will only turn on when the temp gauge gets pretty high unless you turn on the A/C. You could get a tuner program and reprogram it that way, otherwise it is factory set. Mine does the same thing.
VT247
Vacationtime247 Hi, Thanks for the video. I have an 03 Malibu with a 3100 engine. It overheats. I unplugged the coolant sensor temperature and the fans come on. The fans don't come on otherwise. What would you look at next if I know that unplugging the sensor turns the fans on high, fans work and fuse it good? I have not tried to bleed the air out of the cooling system yet because the fans don't come on I figure it is electrical. I have seen suggestions of a secondary fan control however I am not sure how they are wired in or if this is the fix needed. Do you have any feedback on this?
www.autozone.com/productComparisons/productComparison.jsp?originalUrl=%2Fcooling-heating-and-climate-control%2Felectric-fan-thermostat%2Fchevrolet%2Fmalibu%2F2003%2F6-cylinders-j-3-1l-sfi-ohv%3F
Thank you,
Matt
Vacationtime247
Situation- 2001 Aztek runs perfect at highway speed, temp gauge reads normal. Then I slow down for city driving and the temp gauge registers a higher temp (needle moves up "1" mark below the overheat range). At the same time, the computer instructs the transmission to raise line pressure and the transmission begins harsh shifting. I parked the Aztek in the driveway with the motor running and opened the hood. The cooling fans were not running. I measured the coolant temp with an infrared scanner and watched as the temp reached 237 F on the scanner. The cooling fans started running on low speed at 237 F and then stopped (10 seconds). I unplugged the temp sensor and both fans ran on high speed.
Why does the computer tell the transmission to go into "limp" mode and start harsh shifting? Is there a sensor that is picking up bad information? The vehicle runs great in cooler weather.
+alvinspmn The transmission is trying to save itself from burning up, this is why it goes into 'limp' mode. Do a pressure test of the coolant system and check for leak down. If it does leak down, listen for a hiss or water / coolant coming out. Sorry to say this, but these 3400 engines have a bad reputation for blown head gaskets.
VT247
Hey I have a question I have this motor in my 05 Buick rendezvous and I'm having an overheating issue I'll start driving and it will start over heating in just a couple miles but for some reason if I'm on the freeway it won't over heat until I get off the highway then right away it will over heat again any ideas?
Me too
Coolant temp sensor is bad , not turning on fans. At highway speeds the airflow cools down the motor, at idle no air flow. Try turning on ac it overrides sensor and fans should run all the time
Hi I have 2003 Chevy venture don’t know what going on but when I drive I have good heat and the temperature normal but when I park or wait for the red light the temperature gate go up hot and no heat. I put new radiator new water pump new cooling sensor new thermostat and still does the same thing I wonder it have to do with the head gasket please let me know thank you
2004 Pontiac Aztek 3.4. Temp gauge fluctuates while driving and stopped at light. Dipstick and oil fill cap look clean(not milky)
Probably a bad head gasket. Do a pressure test of the coolant system.
VT247
H
Yep. Me too. To hell with Chevy Venture and the 3400 v6 engine. Everything said here was spot on. Be prepared for over heat problems and head gasket jobs. Iam junking mine. Just blew gaskets for the 2nd time in 2 years. Stalled on me about 5o ft from my house at a busy intersection. Had hazards on. Still got side swiped. Tore the whole passenger side to hell.
So I have a 2002 aztek, replaced head and intake and valve cover gaskets, new plugs and wires and coil packs, and fuel pressure tested at 44 , so just wanting to verify that the pump is bad car doesn't start, , before I spend the money in getting one an
I have a 2002 pontiac montana with a 3400,replaced the thermostat and still over heating, and head gaskets are good next option is water pump any suggestions?
Do a coolant pressure test. Can do the loan a tool at Autozone. See if it holds pressure. If so, then try the water pump. If not, find the leak and repair as necessary.
VT247
02 Venture van 3.4 temp gauge straight up 12:00 should be about 212 deg F. T stat is set for 195 full open . Each increment is about 7 deg first mark is 156 f. Low speed fans on at 220 f to 230 both fans on at AC on or above 230. Red line starts at 254 f Top red line is 268. always use factory OEM T Stat. Wide swings are normal but listen for fans and when ideling on hot days it may go to 3to 4 hash marks past 12 oclock .. I use Prestone , dont mix with Dexcool . Purge the dexcool completely and replace , change about 2 yrs Good luck
Mine tends to take forever before the needle moves into the normal range. Then if I am stuck in traffic on a hot day, the needle moves up quickly to near the red. I suspect a partially stuck thermostat in the open position, but I stripped the bolt so I will not be replacing it. Or it could be just bad design. Since I got this van as a gift, I don't know what it was like when it was new. Every car I have ever driven, the needle of the temp gauge is rock steady once the engine is warm. This one seems to fluctuate wildly.
@@lwh7301 Mine fluctuates quite a bit as well . Take note of my previous post as to temp increments . the fans should come on as I said . Near the RED ouch it can get close but should shut down to 212 straight up once the 2fans cick on . You must find a way to change to an OEM t Stat they are more expensive but if you dont want intake leaks or Headgasket repair you need to address it unless you drive it into the ground . the cooling systems on these vehicles are problematic if you dont keep and eye on them .
@@oldtimedrumcorps The fans do come on, but seeing the needle go up causes anxiety when I am stuck in traffic. Once the van starts moving, the needle drops back down. I doubt the thermostat was ever changed. As you know, it's not the easiest thing to do. I got a Stant thermostat 3 years ago, but stripped the bolt, so I never was able to replace it. The van has over 200K miles, and drives great. I use it only when I need to haul big items. So I may just leave it the way it is, and the van never over-heated, just gave me a scare since I have never seen temp gauges move like that. And if it blows a gasket in the future, then I will surrender it to California for $1500.
@@lwh7301 is the coolant green or brown Try to not mix . dexcool is brown ish leave it and only top with dex cool. Still Dexcool is a problem if air is introduced in the coolant . I would put in a new temp sensor they are not expensive . Sounds like rather than getting too involved you might just run it as long as it hasnt given up the ghost Mine will run up high I put it in park if i sit for a long time . It wll drop about 30deg when if both fans kick on . Hers some fun facts . the first has mark at cool is 153then each is 7deg more at top dead its approx 212 degf in the summer it will be around 212 and move up to as much as 235 before both fans come on it then drops quickly or if i resume driving . BTW I get antsy when it gets up there so i dont like to sit forever at the star bucks window . Good luck
@@oldtimedrumcorps It was already green when I got the van. Then I flushed it and put in green, after reading about Dexcool.
Thanks for the help mine just overheated today is there an easy way for me to test the thermostat to make sure it's not stuck?
If after running for a while, one radiator hose is very hot and the car overheats but the other hose is cool, the thermostat is probably stuck provided it has sufficient coolant. These engines tend to have issues with the blown gaskets, intake, head and timing cover. A coolant pressure test would be helpful too to find any leaks and see if it holds pressure.
VT247
I know this video is years old, but maybe someone can help. 2000 silhouette. The low coolant light goes on and off but there's plenty in the reservoir and radiator. It wants to overheat when idle. No bubbles in the coolant reservoir. No white or milky junk in the oil or the cap. No white exhaust. This lead me to think the gaskets are fine. I'm thinking the thermostat stick closed or coolant temperature gauge might need to be replaced, or maybe there is a clog in the coolant system somewhere? Now I'm wondering if I missed something or there could be a different issue because you state that the thermostat going out isn't all that common. Is there anything else I should be looking for?
I inheirited my mother's 03 rendezvos with the 3400 engine. It's never had anything done to it engine wise, just a ton of front brakes and wheel bearings. When I was bringing it home, the temp gauge flew up to hot and the bell went off and before I could pull over it dropped back down into the normal zone. coolant was low in the radiator about a quart and the overflow was down to where the hose wasn't in the fluid. I don't have any sign of coolant in the oil or any sign that I can find of coolant leak. I've seen a lot of videos on burping the cooling system. I'm hesitant to start tearing it apart without learning more. I also have no heat in the cabin, but tho the engine is at normal operating temp. The blower works on 1,2,4, and 5 and I've seen several people on here saying that heater controls have bad connections resulting in burned off contacts and there is a funny smell, kinda like something is burning. Got any advice for me? Or do you wanna buy a rendezvous cheap? lol
Fill the radiator and reservoir up with fluid with engine cool. Start the motor and bring to operating temp. Turn out the 7mm bolt on top of the coolant neck or on top of the water pump (that black metal pipe). Let the air bleed out and tighten the screw. That should let the heater blow warm air.
VT247
2000 olds sillette replaced cracked heater hose in the back of the engine. Now over heats. Do I need to bleed the system? Thermostat? Help please
We have over heating, a PO300 code, and hot water and bubbles in the overflow tank.
Uh oh! Certainly sounds like a bad head gasket to me. Could do a coolant system pressure test and check to see if it holds 12-15 psi.
VT247
Found "mayonnaise" in the oil cap. Yuck.
Yeah, blown intake or head gasket
Thank you for the information. I have a question on my 2004 impala 3.4 engine. Besides the loss of antifreeze I recently noticed a large loss of oil that I had to add, when this engine previously had no oil usage problems. Can a bad intake gasket cause this? I do suspect a bad head gasket though.
Still the best motor.
Hello. So what did you do to make money? did you buy really cheap cars off of like ebay or something, and you painted them, made them look better and then sold them on ebay for higher price? i like cars and would love painting them and making profit.
Work as a nurse for a steady job. But flipping cars was a second income that paid well. Haven't sold a car in over a year now though. We moved west to California and are enjoying the easy life. Went to Ivy Tech and got my associates degree in automotive service tech. Spent a lot of time learning the art of buying low and selling high from my friends and employers. Cheap running and driving cars is where it's at though. Everyone's looking for a cheap reliable car.
VT247
Vacationtime247 I watched your video on doing a head gasket on a 3400 engine. I noticed that you torqed the head bolts down to 65 ft lbs. I have a manual for my 3400, that says 37 ft lbs, plus a 90 degree angle turn. 65 ft lbs is a big difference from 37. So my question is what do you think about this. Im currently working on one, and wanted the best advice possible, to avoid a unsuccessful job. Hit me back asap if you can, thanks.
agvariety I went with 60-65 ft lbs on the head bolts. I'm aware of what the manual states with the torque then angle. Never had an issue with just torquing it down. Wanted a strong hold for years to come. I've done a few of these jobs now and they're all still running strong.
VT247
Vacation time, my 3.4 l8tr 2004 grand am overheats but the gauge doesn't reflect that. I believe the gauge works cause it move between 190-215 degrees. But steam is coming out from under my hood sometimes. What do you think?
Get a lot of these type of questions about this engine, so here's where I'd start if it were mine. Do a coolant system pressure test after filling up the overflow with water. Once pressurized, listen and watch for water to come out. Bet that a gasket is blown and it's leaking somewhere. Replaced the head, intake and timing cover gasket on nearly every GM 3400 I've had.
VT247
I don't know why I can't see my previous message. Anyway, what is the cable that you touch with your finger for in the min. 5:27? in my 2002 venture the right side cable is loose and I can't see the other part, which has a white plastic part. thanks
HEY QUICK QUESTION , what about when the fans dont turn on to cool down the car
Unplug the coolant temperature sensor and see if they come on. If they don't, check the fuse and relay next.
VT247
Do you have access to a scan tool that reads live data? the fans will not engage until coolant temp gets to around 225F or so.
had a crankshaft pulley go bad replaced it and the car began to shake under a load. Started throwing a knock sensor code replaced knock sensor and pigtail pulled the pulley back off and replaced crankshaft sensor. still shaking throwing knock sensor code. Actually runs better if i unplug the knock sensor but still shakes
My fans won't come on. Temp gauge works and shows up past center, but fans won't come on. I can remove the top of the relay and push them down and force the fans on high. So motor/fuse/wire is ok. what controls the fans relay? great vid
Does the fan come on when you turn on your A/C? The fans won't come on until the temp gauge is way up. I can let my Aztek (3400 engine) idle for what seems like forever and the fans don't come on. This is because the engine isn't overheating. Does yours overheat with coolant coming out the reservoir? If so, then it may be that the fans aren't operating correctly. Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor, it can be difficult to reach as it's a tight squeeze. This should turn on the fans as well as it is a default for the computer. But, to answer your question, the coolant temperature sensor reads the temp as being high, sends a signal to the computer (ECM, electronic control module), the ECM sends a reference signal for the relay to activate, the relay then sends the fan 12 volts to run and turn on. Hope this helps. : )
VT247
Right, I used to run the a/c to keep the fans on. The a/c doesn't work now, so the fans won't come on ever now. I bypassed the relay and run a switch to run them manually. Guess I need to see the ecm signal to the relay to prove ecm good. Thanks for responding!
Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor and turn the car on. If the fans come on, they're working fine. If not, there's a problem. The coolant temp sensor is located by / under where the throttle cable hooks to and by the upper radiator hose.
VT247
UCRASH TOO
i have a 2005 buick rendezvous 3.4 it seems to over heat after about 30 to 45 min. ive changed the temp. sensor thermostats. an the fans not to sure if my fans kick in properly when i turn ac on they seem to kick in with more speed oil is good no smoke comes out from the exhaust
Do a coolant pressure test to check for leaks and holds @12-15 psi
VT247
got a good on for you blew the head gaskets so I put new head new thermostat new water pump new radiator new Cadillac converter new starter new alternator had fans check they are good and still over heats some times driving and some times parked I'm stumped
Do a pressure test of the coolant system to see if there is a leak. Check the radiator cap too.
VT247
Hey i have a question about over heating it doesnt over heat completly goes about 3 fourths of the way then goes back down once fans kick on but i believe i have a slow leak where the bleeder is mext to the water pump l.. What type of sealer should i use on that o ring
If you're referring to the metal tube that has the bleeder on, it has an o ring. I took mine off, cleaned it and also added some black silicone around it. Didn't leak anymore after. But, might do a coolant pressure test to find any other leaks and see if it holds pressure after.
VT247
right on thanks guys! no wonder it wouldn't take more than like a quart of water after it vented at least a gallon into the overflow. it has been sitting since my last post and for the record Vacationtime knows his stuff. Nobody wants to accept that their car has blown a gasket but that ended up being the case with this montana as well. Another one bites the dust! may as well count on any of these v6's to blow at some point and if you get 200kmi+ out of one, consider yourself good a PM tech. anybody interested in picking up this blown out soccer mom/ G ride for a steal of a deal in UT let me know
I have a 2003 chevy impala with the 3400. The other day the low oil pressure light kept dinging. Well i ignored it cause it's been doing that since I had the oil changed last month. So as i was driving the car became a little warm, not hot enough for me to stop tho and i was almost home so I kept going and then all of a sudden a mile from my house it acted as if it didn't want to go. I put my foot on the gas and had it pushed down to the floor and the spedometer just kept going down, then the cars temp went way up in no time and the check engine light started to flash. Thankfully I was almost home, so i pulled over and shut the car off. I popped the hood as a red light popped up that said hot coolant temp. Well i let it cool and walked home. When I came back that evening after a couple hours, I added coolant and water, went to start the car and it just cranked but didn't start. So after sitting and waiting it still woi ldnt start and now its like my battery has completely drained. Even after leaving it on the battery charger, I take it off and it's like it was never on there. I try to start it once or twice and all the lights go dead again. Even after 2 days of me trying to start it, still no start. And no leaks. The radiator is full the overflow tank is where it needs to be, and no leaks coming from anywhere. Now it has all that in it and hasn't been able to get it started to run so I can bleed the valves. Please help. ..
Check to see if you have spark and fuel. My bet is that it doesn't have one or the other and without both, the car won't start or run.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 yeah i figured it out there was coolant in the water
Im getting a P0300 code on my 1999 alero and i cant seem to find why
Also no heat only heat sometimes barely
Royx Davis flush the heater core.
Why are the coolant fans not running on my 2000 Olds Sillouette Van 3.4 L ? Fuse 1 is good.
I still have one of them with only three hundred and fifteen thousand miles on it never had a problem my other all the land like jumped out and is that had 475000 on it Delran but the body was falling apart
My heat gets hold then cold again..I have no white residue on my oil cap though.do you still think that would be the head gasket
I have the same issue. Can someone answer please?
@@kimberlyduran6934 my problem was the radiator cap lol
@That's Bank I don't have a radiator cap
you are also knowledgable on these engines. i did my head gasket job back in 2010 70k and an in car partial rebuild of my 160k trans. (clutch pack, sun gear, 4th gear, chain, bands) needed for a failed sun gear and work clutch packs)
when i used to put my car in gear, there would be a slap - turns out there also was no hardened
chain in the trans, and it stretched, and caused that annoying slap.
anywho, something worth mentioning is that GM recommends to keep the surge tanks filled up to full hot when the car is cold. this is extra insurance against the surge hose sucking in air on a slow coolant leak and causing hot spots that can damage the head gaskets.
i had my 3400 in my Chevy Venture van since new in 2002 and only have ~185,000 as of May 29, 2020
My 2002 Oldsmobile Alero has the 3400, My cooling fans do not come on when engine is hot nor when I turn on the A/C. When I unplug the temp sensor the fans with come on immediately and stay on. I still replaced the temp sensor but that did nothing.
How high does the temp get? Mine usually has to be over the 3/4 mark for the temp. My advice would be to hook the car up to a good OBDII scanner and see if you can turn on the fans. Might be that it's not getting a reference signal to turn on the relays that control the fans.
VT247
Joshua Lange 2002 Venture here. That is a common problem as well. The fans i come on really hot or not at all.
What triggers the reference signal to the fans? Is it the coolant temp sensor or the PCM? Jw
Where's the computer on these things? is it under the airbox? I think I have a short or bad ground somewhere...
Yes, the computer is under the air box. What exactly is going on?
+Vacationtime247
All the service lights are on... security light... odometer reads error sometimes.. fuel pump doesn't engage.. engine doesn't crank with ignition but will when you jump it with the starter absolutely no scanner will connect and all the lights pulse - dash radio.. everything inside none of this happened until we replaced head gasket...
Ash D Check that the grounds are connected of course. Also check the battery, my Aztek will drain the battery if I don't drive it for a few weeks. When the battery low, my dash does the same thing.
+Vacationtime247 where are the ground connections at? I know about the main ground that goes to the negative battery cable, but do you know where the others are? A friend of mine had some shade tree mechanic replace the head gaskets on her 2002 Rendezvous but since then she can't get it to start...
+Ash D There are a few grounds by the passenger headlight. Also check that the primary ground is secured to the block and not through aluminum. For a quick check, run a set of jumpers from a good ground source to the end of the primary ground wire.