OK pal, I’m glad you picked this up from the question I asked TravisP11. But… A couple more points I’d like you to discuss. Apart from stoning which removes material, isn’t stealing done to align the feathering of the edge of the blade? (To align and straighten the lip on the edge of a blade) I will steal a blade 5 to 10 times for every one time I use a stone unless there is physical damage to the edge. Also when stealing I draw away from the edge of the blade. The more material removed by sharpening tool or stone brings you closer to the center softer metal, limiting the life of a blade. Of course, I could just be crazy. What are your thoughts? On the blade not the crazy 😂
PatriotInThe Dark yea. Knife blades have microscopic knicks, even when very sharp, that fold over, that’s what I was describing, possibly just not well, so steeling straightens them up. I’m not a big user of stones honestly. But there are different coarsenesses there too, I believe you are supposed to hold the blade at the angle and push away from you with the edge away. I’ve seen people do a swirling motion too, but not sure if that’s recommended. When I steel I start at the top of the steel and behind the bolster and pull towards myself for the “right” side of the knife. For the other side I flip the knife and go away from myself. So the steel is under the knife both ways. Not how many do it. But it’s just how I’ve done it.
MidnightRangeTM drying the blade away from the cutting edge is proper. Drawing the cutting edge into the steel well only damage the edge. Sometimes you will see people slide the blade into the steel. This in my opinion is not correct. Stealing, just like using a leather strap, you want to pull away from the cutting edge to align the blade’s edge. I believe there’s some people that may be confused about stealing. It doesn’t actually remove material to sharpen, it only aligns the cutting edge.
PatriotInThe Dark the very course steels will def remove material. Steels are magnetic also. That way material sticks to em and you can wipe em off and it doesn’t stay on the knife n end up in the food.
I used to have a Buck 110. It was my favorite knife. It was given to me by the Everman Police Reserves for helping them put a reloading building together. I lost it in a burglary in the mid 90's. I want another one, but haven't seen one. I also owned a Buck Lite, which is the same size as the 110, but at about a third of the weight and had been carrying it when the burglary occurred. I just never looked hard to replace the old Buck. Yours tuned out very nice. It looked so mistreated when you first showed it. I don't like using a draw through sharpener because it just chews up the cutting edge of the blade. Nor do I like to use a steel rod or a bare hone, because it is not possible to maintain a consistent angle while you sharpen. Some people manage to hold a good angle, but most people can't. They are usually the ones who never sharpen their own knives, unless they get access to a grinding wheel. Ouch! I use a Lansky Sharpening System. It isn't the best tool to use, but it closely maintains a consistent angle, time after time, as long as you remember what angle you used on each knife.
I worked for a medical supply company years ago. We sharpened surgical scissors and blades. The tool we used was called a smooth file. Smooth meaning it had no ridges. Have you ever heard of the smooth file? Great tips on sharpening. I have work to do this weekend now.
David Bowling not specifically, but I’ve seen steels that are smooth. As long as a steel is harder than the knife blade it would work to finish the blade. And knife steel would be softer than steels because the softer blades are less brittle. They wouldn’t work to sharpen a dull blade though.
I toss most honing steels out the window, I would recommend Carbide sharpeners if you were in a pinch... both of them will ruin the angle of the blade and carbide takes wayyyy to much off the edge, which is why I like using my Edgepro and leather strops.
Great informative video. Here's a tip from a professional CZcamsr. Keep your tabletop one color. The diagram of the firearm is way too busy visually for the human eye to get a good view of the knife. If it were just a solid black or another color, your knife would pop more. Same with colors. Always use opposites for background and object.
well, ill tell ya mine cleaned up super easy. the wood on mine was in good shape but i've seen people refinish those too. Good luck thanks for the comment!
ITrying to sharpena knife with a steel is a great way to waste an hour or two. Use a stone or, as I do, a diamond sharpener. Then use a steel(mine is ceramic) to remove any burrs on the edge. I only use a carbide draw sharpener on beater knives that I don't especially care about.
No I didn’t. But I’ve used that polish on the stainless steel pipes on a motorcycle so I’m sure it would work. If it has surface rust try some 0000 steel wool first then the polish
Dragon Man if brasso is a brass polish then I would imagine you could, honestly I haven’t heard of it. I just used this cuz I had it layin’ around and I knew it was very gentle. It wasn’t super abrasive
Question: Does anyone know what kind of sharpener he showed off first, the white one, and where I can get one? Context: I got my hands on a Buck Ranger 112 on a flea market, the seller was just glad to get rid of it. It looks kinda worn, there's grains of sand between the handle and spinelock, the blade is scratched up and dull, same with the brass
Just go to a restaurant supply place. They’re super common. If not hop on Amazon and search knife sharpener and scroll down there’s lots of varieties. I saw one called accu sharp.
@@MidnightRangeTM Thank you! Unfortunately, there aren't any specific places like that in Norway, but I will try. I'm looking for something easy like that handheld one, because I'm far from an expert when it comes to sharpening, polishing etc.
@@iiamkn1ght121 you could also ask the chef at a restaurant you frequent. I’m sure they could get you one. They’re like $10 american. I’m not sure what money you guys use there lol.
@@iiamkn1ght121 The white one I used is very basic. There’s some that have multiple angles and that you hold more safely. Like I said ask your favorite restaurant.
I'll never buy another buck they may have been decent in the past but they are now garbage. All the bucks I have were anything but good/quality. I bought four to include a custom 110. I had to send three of them back because they were unacceptable. They were returned to me with the same issues as they originally had when i returned them. I believe they may have been oiled and polished but they were not fixed. the blade scraping/rubbing the sides and sound and felt like sand was in them when opened. The backspring protrudes so far it catches/snags on my pockets. two of them had what I can only assume was some sort of sticker residue on the blades and they were discolored. There were gaps/spaces between the handle scales and the bolsters and on and on. The issues were even on the custom knife I ordered (a 110) that cost significantly more than normal. There must be a NON Existent qualify control department at Buck to let knives like the ones I received out of the facility. Shame on Buck for producing the poor quality knives they do and charging as if they were actually decent. The knives i receive3d were on par with a flea market $5 grab box special. The worst part is that it took a couple months for Buck to finally return them in the same condition they were when sent in. So I learned my lesson the costly way and will NEVER buy or recommend a Buck to anyone. There are much better options out there
OK pal, I’m glad you picked this up from the question I asked TravisP11.
But…
A couple more points I’d like you to discuss.
Apart from stoning which removes material, isn’t stealing done to align the feathering of the edge of the blade? (To align and straighten the lip on the edge of a blade)
I will steal a blade 5 to 10 times for every one time I use a stone unless there is physical damage to the edge.
Also when stealing I draw away from the edge of the blade. The more material removed by sharpening tool or stone brings you closer to the center softer metal, limiting the life of a blade.
Of course, I could just be crazy. What are your thoughts? On the blade not the crazy 😂
PatriotInThe Dark yea. Knife blades have microscopic knicks, even when very sharp, that fold over, that’s what I was describing, possibly just not well, so steeling straightens them up. I’m not a big user of stones honestly. But there are different coarsenesses there too, I believe you are supposed to hold the blade at the angle and push away from you with the edge away. I’ve seen people do a swirling motion too, but not sure if that’s recommended.
When I steel I start at the top of the steel and behind the bolster and pull towards myself for the “right” side of the knife. For the other side I flip the knife and go away from myself. So the steel is under the knife both ways. Not how many do it. But it’s just how I’ve done it.
MidnightRangeTM drying the blade away from the cutting edge is proper. Drawing the cutting edge into the steel well only damage the edge. Sometimes you will see people slide the blade into the steel. This in my opinion is not correct. Stealing, just like using a leather strap, you want to pull away from the cutting edge to align the blade’s edge.
I believe there’s some people that may be confused about stealing. It doesn’t actually remove material to sharpen, it only aligns the cutting edge.
PatriotInThe Dark the very course steels will def remove material. Steels are magnetic also. That way material sticks to em and you can wipe em off and it doesn’t stay on the knife n end up in the food.
Never been much of a knife guy, but I love learning new things. Good job
Ghost Tactical thanks. Just a quick lil overview
I used to have a Buck 110. It was my favorite knife. It was given to me by the Everman Police Reserves for helping them put a reloading building together. I lost it in a burglary in the mid 90's. I want another one, but haven't seen one. I also owned a Buck Lite, which is the same size as the 110, but at about a third of the weight and had been carrying it when the burglary occurred. I just never looked hard to replace the old Buck. Yours tuned out very nice. It looked so mistreated when you first showed it.
I don't like using a draw through sharpener because it just chews up the cutting edge of the blade. Nor do I like to use a steel rod or a bare hone, because it is not possible to maintain a consistent angle while you sharpen. Some people manage to hold a good angle, but most people can't. They are usually the ones who never sharpen their own knives, unless they get access to a grinding wheel. Ouch! I use a Lansky Sharpening System. It isn't the best tool to use, but it closely maintains a consistent angle, time after time, as long as you remember what angle you used on each knife.
YoderTexas bass pro has the buck 110 and the buck 110 with synthetic grips on sale now I think.
I worked for a medical supply company years ago. We sharpened surgical scissors and blades. The tool we used was called a smooth file. Smooth meaning it had no ridges. Have you ever heard of the smooth file? Great tips on sharpening. I have work to do this weekend now.
David Bowling not specifically, but I’ve seen steels that are smooth. As long as a steel is harder than the knife blade it would work to finish the blade. And knife steel would be softer than steels because the softer blades are less brittle. They wouldn’t work to sharpen a dull blade though.
I toss most honing steels out the window, I would recommend Carbide sharpeners if you were in a pinch... both of them will ruin the angle of the blade and carbide takes wayyyy to much off the edge, which is why I like using my Edgepro and leather strops.
TheMissouriPhantom thanks for the feedback. I’ve never used leather,
Great informative video. Here's a tip from a professional CZcamsr. Keep your tabletop one color. The diagram of the firearm is way too busy visually for the human eye to get a good view of the knife. If it were just a solid black or another color, your knife would pop more. Same with colors. Always use opposites for background and object.
This video and your last one: Killer Food #26 The Reuben are really good. Thanx for making them.
Squib Load thanks man,
Good tips 👍🏻 I’m going to have try sharpening my knife if i don’t lose it first.
Grimm90 yea, they do tend to wander off huh?
I have a model 110 knife and need to clean it up too. The knife have not been cleaned since owning it.
well, ill tell ya mine cleaned up super easy. the wood on mine was in good shape but i've seen people refinish those too. Good luck thanks for the comment!
Get the kwik thumb stud on amazon for buck 110. Makes 1 hand open so easy
eh too new school for me and makes it look ugly
Very helpful thanks
ITrying to sharpena knife with a steel is a great way to waste an hour or two. Use a stone or, as I do, a diamond sharpener. Then use a steel(mine is ceramic) to remove any burrs on the edge. I only use a carbide draw sharpener on beater knives that I don't especially care about.
I agree. If you need to sharpen a dull knife a steel is useless almost. The ceramic steels are great for finishing to get everything all lined up
Good info thanks for sharing.
Mad Sexy 45 acp/22LR sharing is caring
Nice AK mat!
Tek mat lll
Nice!
Rich1911 thanks for watchin’
did you clean the blade too? my son has the same knife but the blade is filthy
No I didn’t. But I’ve used that polish on the stainless steel pipes on a motorcycle so I’m sure it would work. If it has surface rust try some 0000 steel wool first then the polish
Could I use brasso instead of the blue liquid metal polish thing from the beginning?
Dragon Man if brasso is a brass polish then I would imagine you could, honestly I haven’t heard of it. I just used this cuz I had it layin’ around and I knew it was very gentle. It wasn’t super abrasive
@@MidnightRangeTM Yes, it is for brass and many other things. If you ever see it in a store I recommend you try it
Dragon Man sounds pretty much like the stuff I’m using. Thanks
Brasso has been around since at least the 1940’s. Best brass polish you can get!
Believe in Jesus Christ and be saved from hell before it’s eternally too late if you haven’t already. May God bless you.
You can’t beat it, you can get the buck 110 auto
I haven’t seen that one.
Question: Does anyone know what kind of sharpener he showed off first, the white one, and where I can get one?
Context: I got my hands on a Buck Ranger 112 on a flea market, the seller was just glad to get rid of it. It looks kinda worn, there's grains of sand between the handle and spinelock, the blade is scratched up and dull, same with the brass
Just go to a restaurant supply place. They’re super common. If not hop on Amazon and search knife sharpener and scroll down there’s lots of varieties. I saw one called accu sharp.
@@MidnightRangeTM Thank you! Unfortunately, there aren't any specific places like that in Norway, but I will try. I'm looking for something easy like that handheld one, because I'm far from an expert when it comes to sharpening, polishing etc.
@@iiamkn1ght121 you could also ask the chef at a restaurant you frequent. I’m sure they could get you one. They’re like $10 american. I’m not sure what money you guys use there lol.
@@MidnightRangeTM $10 is roughly 80nok, cheap when it comes to such
@@iiamkn1ght121 The white one I used is very basic. There’s some that have multiple angles and that you hold more safely. Like I said ask your favorite restaurant.
I watched this whole damn video because I thought for sure MNRTM + Buck knife = oops I cut myself... 😟 soo disappointed. Nice Buck by the way.
Roosted Films well, I did have the glove on to keep the polish outta the cut on my hand from the Reuben vid! Lol
Mmmmmm RUBEN
Roosted Films 😎
I'll never buy another buck they may have been decent in the past but they are now garbage. All the bucks I have were anything but good/quality. I bought four to include a custom 110. I had to send three of them back because they were unacceptable. They were returned to me with the same issues as they originally had when i returned them. I believe they may have been oiled and polished but they were not fixed. the blade scraping/rubbing the sides and sound and felt like sand was in them when opened. The backspring protrudes so far it catches/snags on my pockets. two of them had what I can only assume was some sort of sticker residue on the blades and they were discolored. There were gaps/spaces between the handle scales and the bolsters and on and on. The issues were even on the custom knife I ordered (a 110) that cost significantly more than normal. There must be a NON Existent qualify control department at Buck to let knives like the ones I received out of the facility. Shame on Buck for producing the poor quality knives they do and charging as if they were actually decent. The knives i receive3d were on par with a flea market $5 grab box special. The worst part is that it took a couple months for Buck to finally return them in the same condition they were when sent in. So I learned my lesson the costly way and will NEVER buy or recommend a Buck to anyone. There are much better options out there