Bulova 218 Accutron Tuning Fork Watch - Assembly Part 1
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- čas přidán 19. 07. 2024
- Hi Guys welcome to the next video in the Bulova 218 Accutron Tuning fork watch series. This video is part one of the assembly where I will rebuild the tuning fork and train side of the watch. I take you step by step on my journey into this movement and I will remind you at the point of filming this was only my 3rd time inside one of these fantastic movements. I have split the assembly into two videos as otherwise this one would have been well over an hour long which I think would be hard to take it all in at once.
Here is a link to downloading the service manual, just scroll down the page on my website to Bulova: myretrowatches.com/movements/
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YOU ARE ON MY BENCH WORKING WITH ME WHEN I SERVICE A RETRO WATCH. THIS IS MY FIRST ACCUTRON, AND I HAVE SHOT MY SHARE OF SPRINGS INTO OUTERSPACE TO BE CAPTURED BY THE AILENS! HOWEVER, THANKS TO YOU, MY FIRST ATTEMPT WAS A SUCCESS! My spring nemisis is the date change spring. I cheat when installing this spring as well as the detent spring using a microscope like yours. This was my first use of a microscope for repairing wristwatches as most of my experience has been restoring pocketwatches. My technique when installing the detent spring is similar to yours. I position the long leg of the spring underneath the dial bridge, snuggly, hold it with a piece of pegwood at that point, and using a sharp pointed brass or titanium tweezer, gingerly manuever the short end of the spring into position against the detent lever. I haven't flown a spring and can seat this one in less than a minute. The microscope is my right-hand companion. You are my left-hand. Best of luck recuperating from your surgery. I will be seeing you when I service the POGUE 6939. Bill, Mattoon, Wi.
Your videos Have taken me back Thirty Years! My Hands and eyes wont allow me to work on watches anymore (I guess some of just dont age well) This video is absolutely amazing! Thank You?
Glad you like them!
Hi,
I was fascinated by your Accutron assembly Video.
I’ve serviced many of these in my career and I have had some that didn’t hum when I’d fitted all the train wheels and train bridge.
I now fit the train bridge minus wheels and then connect battery to make sure I get a hum before the ultra fiddly job of fitting train wheels.
That’s not a bad idea thanks. I have since done loads of these now but still to do a 214 although I have one here to do that I will film. Like most videos I do it usually the first time I’ve been in that movement so I open myself up to all manner of problems.
The 218 videos are not my proudest moment due to my inexperience at the time. Fortunately people still find them and enjoy them.
Thanks
Lots of patience and perseverance, lining them jewels up is like trying to crack a safe. Well done, I knew this line of work was very fiddly but definately opened my eyes. Well done, keep the videos rolling 💪
Thanks 👍
Nice Mike! Just incredibly touchy. Almost painfully so. Your patience is now legendary!
Bulova gave you a strong fight but you stayed with and came out on top at the end. Great video Mike.
Thanks, the second part will be live in a day or so and you can see me suffer more!
I'm working on one of these as a complete amateur right now. You can't imagine how frustrated I was until I saw that you really had a hard time with it too.
That evil gear train reminded me of my first time working on Russian watch with 3 prong shock spring(in my opinion even more evil than some seiko springs, only thing more nasty is Raketa escape wheel cap jewel). Before that I have serviced some watches without shock protection and I was very confident that this one would be easy. In reality I spent more than 30 mins trying to return the spring.
Thanks again for excellent videos, you have taught me so much!
Thank you. Shock jewel springs can be a horrible experience. In general watches are designed to go together well and easily with the right tools. Often the hobbyist gets by with what we have and dont have professional training hence we might not know correct methods or what tools will help.
@@MyRetroWatches Totally agree. There are probably some special tools and methods for assembling accutrons, this one looks much more difficult than anything I tried. From my not so big experience I can say that kif elastor and incabloc are probably the 2 friendliest systems
That paul lever dropped out of plate, didn't understand what it was, thanks now I know, it was quite helpful 😅
Hi Mike, great work , thank you very much for sharing it with us. I have worked on a few Accutrons model 218 before. If I may add one comment, please consider lubricating the friction wheel (or Cannon pinion wheel as you call it), please refer to min 4:05 in your video. Just apply a small qty of oil between the wheel spokes and the cannon pinion at the friction point. I hope that you can still do it now and may not be too late if you already closed the movement. Good luck with the rest of the reassembly. Dan
Thanks for watching and your advice. Why would you oil the teeth? I always thought that was not the done thing as when it ages it will slow the movement surely
Hi Mike, no need to oil the teeth, I mean the joint between the wheel spokes and the cannon pinion itself (central part of the wheel). The wheel is actually made of 2 parts, the center part (cannon pinion) and the wheel itself. If you look at this wheel under the microscope at the area between the center of the wheel and the wheel spokes you will see what I mean. There is a groove machined in the center part (cannon pinion) where the friction is taking place. These 2 parts can rotate independently in order to allow you to change the time. Here you can apply a small quantity of oil. Good luck and thank you again.
Dan Ionescu ahh okay I understand now thanks. I will take a better look on the scope.
Brilliant
When fitting the gear train, turn the movement on its side after fitting a couple of screws, and go in through the battery side, finger on top of gear train bridge, whilst using an oiler to turn the wheels, usually the 4th wheel as that turns other wheels faster, plus this way you can see the orientation of the gear train wheels.
Great job, how patient you are, quite tense viewing with you wrestling with the train bridge section 😎
The train is hard just because it’s so small. Index wheel is ultra fragile and at only 2.4mm diameter
Mike, I think a great video! Amazing! You have amazing patience!
Not patience it’s just stubbornness .
Just wait for the final episode, it’s more of the same! Just a few days and it will he uploaded
I just missed out on 2 of these watches, one of them was the early one with a view face...😖. Also I don't know why this is so interesting to me but can't stop watching. I may try to get into this myself, but think I might start with clocks...😁
When that train wheel bridge popped in everyone started breathing again, I'm not ready to attempt one of these I haven't even started working on anything but the simple time only watches from the '60s '50s and '40s, I have a couple of accutrons with this movement One of them I switched a dial on and had to pull the day date calendar apart because I got the clutch wheel stuck on the wrong side of the yolk trying to put the crown back in that was a 3-hour endeavor never mind even thinking of taking the train wheels apart. Maybe one day, I do have a parts movement that I might attempt to pull apart, working under the microscope is really hard.
I did my first Vostok mainspring transplant and it went so smoothly I went and done the other slipping Vostok so now all my Komandirskies are working again. Tomorrow I have planned to get the balance assy into my KGB Vostok and now waiting for a brand new 2409 movement from Vostok themselves via their local outlet and I can begin my "radio room" 090 cased Amphibia build all with off the shelf spare parts hehe (expect mildly entertaining video on that one - am working on a Reliant Robin one at mo)
Well done Ian. Mainsprings can be vicious.
Keep at it pal
Accutron 218s are my favorite watch, I've repaired quite a few of them, in a way they are both relaxing and frustration to work on, i find it necessary sometimes to clean the magnets on the tuning fork.
On the train bridge after I have the gears in place I set the train bridge on them and install the screws very loosely, then working from the 4th gear once it's in the jewel I tighten the screw a little more, that holds the gear in place while I concentrate on the remaining gears, you can also work on them through side gap by setting the watch on its edge.
One of my most frustrating experiences was trying to get the battery tab isolating washer installed, set the screw head down, try to ring the washer over it, flip the screw/washer 180 degrees and balance it on the battery spring in an attempt screw it down to the mounting hole, I think I lost 4 washers as they would fling away, i finally realized that a drop of oil would hold them in place.
Good job on your restorations, it's nice to see these old treasures brought back to life and enjoyed again
Thanks for your detailed reply. Since filming I have done quite a few of the 218s and now have placing the train bridge down to a fine art. Many suggest to place the bridge screws in lightly on any mechanical watch . I dont like this method personally but only because I have had experience of breaking a pivot I thought was in and it wasn't.
The 218 is a simple movement and not too complex at all but definitely fiddly, very fiddly! the day date versions especially with their crazy spring setup.
My father gave me my Grandfather's Bulova 2181 he was given when he retired in 1974. I replaced the battery and it hums and second hand runs strong, but the day won't turn over by itself also the hour and minute hand seem to become hung up around the 2 to 3 o clock area. Any best guesses at what it may be?
Thanks a bunch!
On the canon pinion is gear that has friction clutch fingers. These
Fingers wear out. It is a real challenge pulling off the dial and calendar assembly to get to this gear. Springs can go flying! This is a common problem with 218's.
You'll need to find a tech who does Accutrons.
Thanks!
Great job Mike, I wouldn't even think about putting that bridge on on camera, hey you need to do a job on your brass tweezers. Thanks for posting.
You know Bill the daft thing is that in my drawer the whole time was a pair of titanium tweezers... can’t believe it !
Hi Mike don.t knock your self down that looked a buger of a job, but I found it interesting. Keep up the good work.
Glad you enjoyed it
I remember tuning fork 🍴 watches from years ago. I think my Grandpa 👴 gave me one ☝️. A watch of this type, makes a very distinct sound, when placed by your ear 👂. By what I’ve heard, tuning fork watches are very accurate. Had I held onto that watch, I could’ve had ya service it. By what you’re saying, tuning fork watches contain a magnet 🧲. Could ya tell me what the average life of a tuning fork is? Your friend, Jeff.
Well done sir!, pivots can be a B!!, thank you. Adrian
Oh, your patience! Can you give me some please? I have tackled a quartz movement before and the magnetic rotor is really difficult to get in place!
Part 2 will be up in a few days guys. Standby
I think I was actually holding my breath when watching you trying to get that bridge to fit.
haha, thanks for watching.
Great stuff,I envy you...................
Just watching you do it makes me nervous!
Haha
Awful job but we do need a challenge Mike. I may be wrong but the battery ground seems upside down. I m probably wrong. Loved watching your pain. You would hate what I'm doing. We all have to hone our skills
I have got a lot better at these movements now. Remember this was my first ever time inside one plus I decided it was a good idea to film it! on Accutrons the battery goes in up side down.
Absolutely fascinating. I looked up pictures of the index wheel and levers...BLIMEY! it makes some really high end watches look like Mecano engineering.
The index system is just incredible that someone could even think it up. Turn a vibration into a moving set of wheels to drive hands on a watch. All in the 60s too
@@MyRetroWatches how on earth did they cut the teeth?
@@jeb-zf4un I read somewhere that the machines and the knowledge to make the index wheels were lost after a chinese company purchased Bulova. So not only are they no longer made, we don't even know how to make them anymore! But I guess that, with modern technology, they could be made using electrolithography techniques.
I noticed that some of my hummers get fork tone sometimes hours before the movement actually starts. I found that if I lightly wrap on the case with my finger, that often gets them moving much sooner. Is this a bad method?
How do you clean the index wheel? I assume you don’t put it in the same basket with other wheels because that would cause a lot of rubbing of its teeth.
Can you make a video on ESA 9162/Omega 1250 service, please? There is almost no such video on YT, and there are still many watches with these movements around and most watchmakers won't service them. It would be very helpful for amateurs like myself in attempt to work on these watches.
I won’t be attempting those. I don’t own them for a start and don’t have the money required to purchase just for videos .
Check out my friend Max channel he knows all about those movements . czcams.com/users/rexploit42
Nice! I will like to get the Bulova Accutron 2181 Movement working. Do you know how much it cost?
Hi Mike, i own a Citizen Hisonic, would you know where i could purchase a crystal display back for it?
Sorry no idea
My Retro Watches it was a shot in the dark Mike, brilliant work on the Bulova btw!
Hello Michael! Sorry I comment. I'm not professional, but it seems you put 3-rd wheel spring up side down (visible since 18:42and further, left side of the screen). Just in case ;) And great thanks for Accutron manuals!
The spring part that’s screwed to the mainplate points upwards. Has on all the ones I have worked on. I have fitted it the same on here.
3rd wheel part was tense :).
Very!
Hi Mike; just wondering - have you ever serviced a 214? :) didnt find a video with a 214 on your channel!
No not yet. One day I will .
In the twentieth minute of the video, the wheel brake can be removed by pushing the key. I think it's easier
Thanks for the tip. This video was my first time in an Accutron.
My Retro Watches
Thank you for your help, i am currently working on this watch.
You are an inspiration to me, a teacher.
You are great
@@miroslavturza6039 very kind of you to say so. Thank you.
i have been looking for a video on the Bulova Accutron 218 for literally years. can someone explain why I'm only just finding this video now?!?
I don’t know! YT algorithm is not brilliant for my channel.
There is two or three videos in this series so hopefully you find them useful.
I see that the cell strap screw was not removed from its hole. Is there a reason why not? I'm planning on replacing the screw that I lost, and am looking for guidance.
If you mean the one the strap hooks on to it does not need to be removed
@@MyRetroWatches Yes, that screw. I inadvertently backed it out too far, and across the room it flew into oblivion. I not sure if it can easily be reinstalled, without disassembling the bridge, once the new screw arrives here.
@@raychapman6810 you won’t need to remove the bridge , it can be screwed back in - insitu
Why not use bronze tweezers? Harder than brass and non-magnetic.
I wish I had your patience Mike, I’d have had to walk away from it.
After lining up your train into the bottom plate, offer the bridge up to it, using a very small amount of pressure on the top plate with your finger, get a previously sharpened tooth pick slimly on the end, and tease the wheels with the tapered end of the tooth pick gently, not from the top, at the battery end, where you can view all the wheels in their true uprightness. The third wheel will go in easily, now tease the index and second wheel to a straight position they will find their way, the last wheel is the big boy, push at it gently towards the center of the movement, it should line up and allow the plate to fall down in place, you will know this has happened as you will breath a sigh of relief. I hope this is clear to you, I spent many many hours on this technique.
Thank you. I have now worked on many of these and have the bridge work down to a fine art in a pretty much similar method. I use a black oiler to nudge the index as it’s nearly always the wheel that shifts out of position.
I always pronounced it Boo-luvva 😆
I should have been a Watchmaker. I have all the tools, but the hands aren't steady enough anymore. All my electromechanicals need servicing and I can't do it like I had planned. Ok, I'm tearing up now.
Do you have the right type of bench? You may need to have a kneeling bench and pad OR a super high bench that comes up to your neck so you can rest your chest and forearms on it. That's how a LOT of watchmakers work. I have even used those techniques on some guns that have very fiddly bits and it works VERY well.
@@nomanmcshmoo8640 Yeah, I've watch many pro watchmaking videos and watch manufacturer videos wher they have the high bench and windows in just the right place to aid with doing the bench work. My dillusions of watch making days are pretty much over. I couldn't hold a screw driver or kneel if I tried and my eye are getting worse by the second. Okay, I'm sorta lying... I did just do a simple battery change on a 70's Seiko and on an early LED watch AND I changed the battery in my iPhone 6S which was harder for me to do thatn any watch.
: D
It was quite painful seeing that index wheel dancing all around, not wanting to go into position. I've read that if you look at them the wrong way, they get damaged!
Yes the index wheel is brittle. Metal tweezers touching the teeth will almost certainly cause damage.
Fortunately I have avoided any mishaps on this one.
Thanks for watching.
@@MyRetroWatches This is the only video I've found where the index wheel is removed, most people I've seen don't have the knowledge or patience (or balls for that matter) to do it. 👊🏻
I like your videos, but I end up doing a lot of fast-forwarding because there are many slow sections that seem to run in real time. Maybe think about editing all the blurry sections, minor problems that take time to work around, self reflections on what’s going on, etc. as these are frustrating and time-consuming to sit through. I don’t find that I learn much by watching all the normal fiddling, backing up, trying again, etc. Laying down the audio track on the highly edited version would eliminate all the talking to yourself and explanations of what’s going wrong, etc. The videos by Mark Lovick and Marshall at the wristwatchrevival channel are beautiful examples of well-edited and easy-to-watch tutorials. Thanks!
Well I can take criticism but I do my videos my way. You mention the other two channels, both being friends of mine off camera. They just shoot and then put voice overs which to me is cheating as you can make it all look slick and easy which it’s not. Mark is also a seasoned professional.
Both make 1000s out of YT per month to afford all the fancy kit involved. I do not and have a full time career and young family.
I like my Videos real to show all mistakes as it’s honest and genuine . I don’t want to make myself look at total pro because I’m not and never will be.
Mark did CZcams full time job and I’m sure Marshall is not far off given his views.
My channel grows extremely slowly and 5-10k views on a video is as good as it gets. That will pay maybe £40 at best for 10-15 hours of work.
That said more recent videos whilst they are still long I’ve spent £1000 on new camera kit to try to get closer in and improve for the viewers.
I will never do voice overs for a repair video though as it’s not my bag to add a whoops or oh no in a voice over as it’s not a surprise.
@@MyRetroWatches Okay - thanks for responding - I get your point. But your content is as good as theirs, and there’s a big audience for these tutorials. Please consider the possibility that the reason those channels do so well is that they are beautifully edited and really easy to watch. We all know that the real road of watch repair is filled with obstacles, potholes and human error. But I learn just as much from those channels as I do from others that include all the granular details, except that it takes half as long and I’m not experiencing the angst that some of the slip-ups give me. But it’s your channel and I’ll still watch it regardless because you tell some really interesting stories! Cheers!
Just melted my 1967 14kt Accutron. Too old for parts. Spent $350 12 years ago. And new crystal 5 years ago. 😢😢😢
In my opinion, while your video is good--several errors were made that frustrated your efforts to reassemble the movement.
1--Throw away manual! Ive done dozens of 218x and the manual makes it a nightmare.
-- Order of reassembly. This is the way I do it, and can do one of these in under 1.5 hours without hassle.
From bare plates, Reassemble all keyless works inc center wheel. You also need to lubricate the friction area of the center wheel pipe to wheel or it wont last long--lot of tension on this part during date spring wind-up (you neglected this in your video-you only oiled the arbour), you also need more lube on centre wheel arbour--Important on date complications.
This center wheel and arbour are weak spots on 218x as Bulova specified Moly grease that goes hard then watch wont work or stops unexpectedly...
BTW--Tiny transmission wheel between crownwheel and minute wheel goes BEVEL SIDE DOWN--You put yours in upside-down, Check your disassembly video, see its orientation, or even manual you threw away!
Fit stem and crown--Important!
Do Not Fit 4th wheel bridge--This goes on After the wheels and main bridge.
Turn over pillar-plate. Oil jewel holes (9000) in pillar and first two of main bridge, 9010 or 9020 in third fourth and seconds pipe.
Fit hack lever, its spring and center second brake-spring and screw. lub sparingly D5 or whatever
Fit coils without batt strap and screws lightly. Fit fork washers, then fork bottom screw tight first., Check for hum and check current, no more than 7uA at 1.5v
Fit pawl bridge, cam lock and set-screws
Check pre-position of jewel fingers is approx right for height and position inc squareness.
Fit third wheel, with crown in run position, hold down against its spring, then put crown into time set position to hold 3rd wheel.
Fit 4th wheel--It hangs in movement across fork tines and third, this is fine.
Fit index.
Fit second wheel.
Lower main bridge on and locate in position with screw in top left hole, only on a few threads.
Push Crown To RUN Position--Important!
Working through battery recess side above fork tine, use thin WOOD probe (NOT an oiler) to locate Index wheel and second wheels into jewel holes.
The third wheel will now self center into its own jewel due to brake spring and being released from hack lever (crown in run).
Check the three wheels are free. Fit remaining screws and snug up.
Turn to dial side.
Fit 4th wheel bridge and don't forget to oil it. (9020)
Fit Date work parts and then date bridge. Fit date wheel detent spring.
Set to midnight--date trip, then fit dial, hands etc.
Last job before casement--(so there's no chance of buggering up index wheel or settings as its the very last job¬
Fit batt strap and snug up coil screws Set up the indexing as specified at 0.95V. Check for correct operation at above 1.80V
Put crown in set position before slackening pull-out piece by 1.5 turns, pull out stem, then fit to case, refit crown.
Set timing on Vibrograf to -2sec/day dial up.
Thanks for this information.
Followed your instructions. Some very helpful tips.
It's so fiddly I can feel my BP going up just observing.....
After that video the price of Accutrons will drop dramatically on Ebay 🤣
Haha, certainly if I’ve been working on them
I have noticed demand for Soviet and Russian watches have grown quite a lot in the last year and there isn't many of us who specialise in the ol' russkie stuff and at least when you do get one you know its likely pre-abused, pre-broken, used as a doorstop in Chernobyl and inhabited by the malicious spirit of Stalin...