Wheel bearing replacement 2006 Chevrolet 2500HD Hub assembly front Install Remove Replace
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Wheel bearing replacement 2006 Chevrolet 2500HD Hub assembly front Install Remove Replace How to change.
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Not my first video on replacing a hub assembly, but maybe one video or another shows something better that the other. Good video for many makes, models, years. really only wrench or socket sizes usually change.
This video should be good for many Chevrolet, GMC, Hummer 4WD trucks
1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
LT LS
Silverado 1500
GMC Sierra SLT SL SLE WT Classic 1500 2500
Hummer H2
Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 2500
Suburban 1500 2500
GMC Yukon XL 2500
Chevrolet Tahoe
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Probably the best no BS video on how to do this. Thank you!
You are the only one on CZcams that talks about the O-ring in the knuckle. I ordered 2 new hubs/bearings and 2 new O-rings also.
Wait what? What’s a knuckle? My English not good sorry. I asked auto store about o ring when installing hub bearing and they said there’s no such thing as an o-ring for the hub asembly
Good video. Here's a tip- whenever I put the caliper assembly up on the A-arm, I secure it with a long zip tie. Keeps it from suddenly falling down on your fingers/hand.
Metal coat hangers also work well.
@@RubberChicken10000 My item of choice is some rusty wire that sits in the back of my truck
Good to see a fellow left handed mechanic!!!
Nice job, thanks. Now I'll go back out in the shop and beat that splined shaft out of the bearing.
Quick and to the point. Good work sir.
Had to do one of these today, thanks for the video and all the torque specs included !
Spot on. I needed to see the entire process, and you delivered. Thanks for the help.
Good job sir! Thank you for the specs at the end made it worth while to watch till then end.
thanks for posting this video, I just replaced a left front hub assembly on a 2006 2500HD today and your video helped me out a lot.
How long did this job take you, if you don’t mind me asking? I appreciate your time in responding.
@@badbernrock5 years…
Thanks hitting the CV shaft back, Great!
Great instructions thanks! My Silverado only has 63K miles on it and the bearing is SHOT with 265/75/16 tires and little off roading....Pretty SAD!
thanks very clearly specified appreciate videos like these
I Always Zip Tie the caliper!!
Yeah im going to need you to do this while it's on the ground to fully understand...haha Nice Presentation Mane.
Great help thanks
I watched your video and I watched another video. Both were spot on, except your torque for caliper was 80ftlb and the other was 225ftlb of torque, which is correct and where can I find that to make sure i get it right? Thanks, very informative.
according to fixya, its 80ftlb
The caliper guide pins are 80ft lb torque, the caliper bracket that bolts to the knuckle itself is 221 ft lbs. The big bolt he took out and showed is the caliper bracket, and he said it will probably have loctite on it. These are torque # for 2500HD trucks, the 1500 trucks are different.
I don't know, maybe replace that brake line after a free fall of that heavy caliper?
They don't break that easy though
Thanks for the tips! Worked out great for me
The hardest thing if you are doing at home on a older truck I got a old dually 4 wheel drive the worst thing for me was the 4 hub bolts 15 mil ther terrible bolts you have to have a good socket that don’t rub on the cv joint or you will round your bolts if you round the bolts your screwed and clean them good with a wire brush or a pick to get rust out if you round off a bolt get a Drexel tool or if your lucky enough a compressor and a die grinder and grind the head of the bolt off I tried tie weld a head on the bad bolt but made things worse ended u hitting the cv shaft boot with some sparks and a hole appeared in my boot now I got to take cv joint out and replace boot pain in the ass a dremmel tool work the best for me I got a welder to come to my house mistake I should have just used dremmel tool and cut the head off with a grinder bit oh well you learn the hard way it’s fixed now it’s a little harder on a ne ton but basically the same as this
Just took them out and they are pretty sad
Thanks for the video! A really big help!
wow did u see the way the hub just fell out , that would have never happened in the north east, there would have been some 🔨 involved
Thank you very much for this great video. Is the torque for the break caliber mounting bracket bolts 221 instead of 80 ft lb?
what's with Chevy & the right side hub always scrapping and whining, making noises & stuff.
TrollMaster300 that's what mine is doing. sounds terrible when I start driving at a slower speed
Same here. ‘05 Express Front Passenger Hub Assembly. I guess it’s a thing with Chevys. Looking forward to driving without the whine/groan.
My front passenger was first to go as well!!
Great video. Thanks.
excellent video
kick ass man thank you!
Christopher Kesek lol, I thought you said “nice ass, man” haha
What brand of replacement bearings best, Timco, Moog, A1 Auto. I have to do this, my driver side has a loud hum to it, it has to be the bearing.
I’m doing mine today. Ordered krytonite wheel hubs for both sides. $240ish per side no questions asked life time warranty.
@@Donttreadonanyone how are they holding up
Kryptonite is the best, warranty-wise. Timken comes in a close second.
What if it doesn’t come apart like it’s like new? Mine is an 05’ 1500 Silverado. I realize it’s not the same as the 2500 but it’s similar. Anyways I’m from Minnesota. “The land of rust”. And for the life of me, I can’t get the hub assembly out of the spindle. I’ve done a few of them prior to this one so I’m not completely oblivious to the process. I even went as far as to heat the spindle assembly and make an attachment for my slide hammer that bolted to the lug studs so I could whale the ever loving shit out of it. And yet, it still won’t budge. So what my question is, Have you ever come across one like this? And if so, was there a trick or process that you used to break it loose that I’m not familiar with? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
You probably already figured it out but, have you tried a Mini sledge?
If you have spare axle nuts than put one of those on the axle shaft to protect the threads and find a chunk of 2x4, heat the everloving sh!t out of it and beat the axle inward. Then if you have a replacement hub assembly, take the Mini sledge and start beating on the top, then bottom and either side. sometimes the if you only hit one side, the hub assembly will bind.
Hope this helps!
Heat! Beat! Repeat! It will give up eventually!
thought it was supposed to be an replacement/install. Nice vid though
Richard Wilkes you’re right, that is what the title says. Reversing the procedure shouldn’t be too difficult though. Were you able to get yours done and if so, how long did it take you? Appreciate your time/response.
How do you compensate for torque when using neversize
thank you!
What brand/part # did you use? I can't find a wheel hub assembly which specifies 2-wheel drive & 6 lug. The good brands only specify for 4-wheel drive/8 lug. Can you tell me which you used? Thanks
Check out Detroitaxle.com they have just about everything and a very nice warranty
I prefer Timken, Moog, or SKF, the other brands won't last more than 6 months in my experience.
515054, at least that’s the correct # for MOOG.
You did not show how to put it back together
I got the same tires
What are the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing?
Lift your truck so the wheel is in the air, wiggle your wheel left and right, up and down. If there is any significant play you might have shot bearings. A telltale sign is also a crunching or screeching sound coming from the hub. I usually notice a bit of slop in the steering as well when my bearings go bad.
Play in the wheel. You probably can’t feel with the vehicle on the ground. Jack it up and wiggle the wheel, bad bearing will have a lot of play
You must not live in the salt belt hahaha.
Mopar Dave Ha, I used to - Minnesota. I guess I should mention the need for PB Blaster in cases and a good torch for some jobs...
2011 2500hd front brake replacement
I was thinking the same thing, took my wheel off and descaled about 8lbs of rust into a box...wish I knew what a hammer tap was while working on my truck, more like a beating.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏
why dies everyone replace the whole assembly instead of just the bearings??
Hubs aren’t overly exspsive , plus it makes the process easier, don’t have to press the bearings in etc , pop the hub off put new hub on and done
And yes you are the onley one that says to change or ing in hub no one else on you tube does but a lot of them mention the shitty heads of them hub bolts if the hub bolts are not in real good shape don’t se them replace them ther 40 dollars for 4 of them from Napa if you live in Canada or a rust belt they can be pretty rusty and easy to round of so be careful with them or they can be a bastard to take out
20x12 and 33s fucked mine up lol
I don't understand why there is a need for an axle/spline? Unless this is a 4-wheel drive? If not 4 -wheel drive, then why a spline/axle? What is its purpose? My 2003 Chevy 2500HD doesn't have a spline/axle in front and of course no axle nut either...just the 4 bolts in back holding the hub on.
it's 4 wheel drive. Do you see the cv axle attached to the front wheel?
So your job must’ve been considerably easier. I’m also dealing with a 6 bolt 2wd, so this is good news for me. How long did it take, if you’d be so kind.
You can find this wheel bearing www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-GMC-Sierra-2500HD-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-/262623053644?hash=item3d258dc74c:g:XDMAAOSwmLlX11G5&vxp=mtr
The title says Replace ... I don't see replace... 👎👎
Ohhhhh yq
Painful video
Great video ..! Thanks