Historic Mont-Blanc Les Bossons La Jonction Les Grands Mulets Arête du Dôme du Goûter summit

July 2018, mountains, mountaineering... Mont-Blanc by the historic route and variant by the Arête du Dôme du Goûter and the Arête des Bosses...
Departure from the village of Bossons, meal at the Chalet des Pyramides, path of the Jonction, bivouac at the Gîte à Balmat, crossing of the Glacier des Bossons, refuge of the Grands Mulets, Arête du Dôme du Goûter, Refuge Vallot, Arête des Bosses and summit of the Mont Blanc...
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#mountain #alpinism #montblanc #chamonix #grandsmulets #refuge #gîteàbalmat #glacierdesbossons #arêtedudôme #arêtedesbosses #snow #ice #glacier #refugevalot
Mont Blanc was conquered for the first time on August 8, 1786. This first ascent has long been attributed to the Swiss Horace Bénédict de Saussure, but it is due to two inhabitants of Chamonix: the doctor Michel-Gabriel Paccard and his guide Jacques Balmat .
Reaching the summit, a perilous attempt?
Jacques Balmat: I became one of the competitors set to conquer Mont Blanc. The first really serious attempt dates from 1775. It was not by Saussure, but by four inhabitants of Chamonix. The enterprise fails, even ending in an accident (a fall into a crevasse, fortunately not serious). No further attempts were made for eight years, Saussure finally admitting that the summit of Mont Blanc was undoubtedly inaccessible. In 1783, three Chamoniards risked it again, in vain. A designer from the Alpine peaks, Marc Théodore Bourrit, tried in turn a few weeks later, accompanied by four mountaineers... and the doctor Michel Paccard, but without further success. I undertook an unsuccessful solitary attempt at the beginning of July 1786 and learned on my return that five guides had left towards the summit. I leave almost immediately and catch up with them near the Grands Mulets. At the Col du Dôme, while my companions gave up, I continued alone and after an improvised bivouac, out of caution I went back down in my turn. At this precise moment, I am convinced that the summit of Mont Blanc and the reward are now within reach. I am immediately looking for a climbing companion who can then testify in case of success.
So who is the climber accompanying you on your third attempt?
Jacques Balmat: Michel-Gabriel Paccard, a native Chamoniard, born in the valley, and returned to settle there after studying medicine. In 1784, he met Saussure, who said of him that he was “a boy who loved botany and wanted to climb Mont Blanc or at least to try”. Paccard renewed his attempt in 1784. Two other mountaineers in turn attempted a new access route and reached 450 m from the summit. Saussure, who now feared that his summit would be “stolen” from him, organized an expedition the following year, split into two groups. He has provided ropes, ladders to cross crevasses flat, studded shoes so as not to slip on the ice, wooden visors to protect his eyes from the glare... He must return without having achieved his goal, but One of his companions, who was late, spent a night in the snow in the high mountains, which until then had been considered impossible. I think I have found the path that leads to the summit and Michel Paccard also claims to have found it during his mountain journeys. It was therefore together and discreetly that we left on August 7, 1786. We bivouacked before launching to attack the summit on August 8, without ropes, without ice axes or crampons via the Goûter dome. At past 6 p.m., we both reached the summit.

[@pierre-marie4926]

Tellement plus intéressant que par l'autoroute du Gouter !

[@davidsupervagabond3505]

Super vidéo de part son format (ni trop courte ni trop longue), ses points de vue, son montage, etc. Merci pour ce bon moment.

[@andrewsheehy2441]

This is a great video. I walked up to La Jonction today from Le Bossons village (well, until c. 2300m as there is still too much snow) and it occurred to me that Paccard and Balmart might not have had the benefit of the easy path that exists today. This alone was an achievement. And after their bivouac they the has another 2500m to go - and no assurance that the route was possible. These were fit and brave men for sure.

[@tvmountain]

thank you for your message

[@antonio.go.5887]

trés beau chemin,j'ai du arreter l'image souvent pour apprécier la beauté du paysage,les gros séracs et les crevasses,qui ont fauché tellement de vies au début de l'alpinisme.plus intéressant que le parcours que j'ai fait par Tête Rousse/Gouter.Merci.

[@tvmountain]

merci pour votre message

[@vitalaviolette6388]

Je suis sans voix merveilleuse vidéo

[@philippeantoine8051]

très belle course qui donne envie, le mont blanc est toujours aussi attirant.Nous l'avions fait avec notre guide Michel en contournant par la face nord est de l'arête des bosses.J'espère bien le refaire .
merci pour cette vidéo .

[@clementtomme1566]

Magnifique vidéo, inspiring !

[@daishotrekkeur4116]

Sublime !

[@thechippedtoothsurfercts528]

Amazing video! Thank you for sharing. I’m planning a trip next year, ascending the same route you took. Did you come down the Gouter route, which is what I’m considering?

[@tvmountain]

hello thank you for your message. Yes very nice route. We descended by the 3 Monts and the Aiguille du Midi

[@thechippedtoothsurfercts528]

@@tvmountain thanks so much for taking the time to reply. Really appreciate it. I’m going to show this vid to my mates on Saturday. Just so well put together and engaging. All the best, Darren.

[@tvmountain]

thank you

[@va.1946]

Superbe vidéo ! Descente par quel itinéraire ?

[@sarabetancur6720]

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