HOW TO MACHINE A STEAM ENGINE CYLINDER - MODEL ENGINEERING FOR BEGINNERS #5
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- / keithappleton
This is "MODEL ENGINEERING FOR BEGINNERS" a free tutorial series by Keith Appleton which covers most aspects of the hobby of model engineering starting with basic Lathe operation. This one shows how to machine a model steam engine cylinder. Full of useful tips & explanations.The series is full of tips for the amateur model engineer based on my many years of model engineering experience. The series is very easy to understand - designed for the complete novice beginner. IF ANYONE WISHES TO MAKE A SMALL DONATION TOWARDS THE COST AND THE TIME THAT IT TAKES ME TO MAKE THESE VIDEO TUTORIALS PLEASE USE THESE LINKS: www.paypal.me/...
/ keithappleton
.............. THANK YOU ........
For a Complete Playlist of videos on this channel, please go to my website: www.mainsteam.c...
Very interesting. I would like to start building steam engines soon. This is very helpful. Thanks. You talk yourself down as not being a machinist, in my view you are up there. Very nice work and I learn so much from you, just hope I can recreate decent quality work. He he.
I’m a woodworker and came across your channel accidentally or CZcams has these algorithms that pushed me here either way it’s really really fantastic to see what you are doing, I’ve become hooked and don’t want to watch too much at one time as I need to ration myself in case i overindulge....many thanks for uploading these videos, I enjoy the humor as well.
It’s 2020 and I want to start building steam models lol ...thanks for the great vids,learning lots from you.I am getting started soon
Mr. Appleton, thanks so much for your videos. I am a Yankee septuagenarian who has always wanted to know about lathes and only yesterday ordered a metal cutting mini-lathe and eagerly await its arrival. You are an excellent instructor and I should know as I was also an instructor for many years being both a platform and flight instructor in the military for twenty-seven years. Your ability to speak directly to us beginners is greatly appreciated. Again, thanks for your videos.
Good production value on this video, and I could listen to your voice all day. Well done.
Great video, thanks for the information I plan to build a scale model in my retirement, not steam, but a British truck from the 60s, engineering is an art that unfortunately we seem to be losing in this country especially I the industrial North, much respect!
Ambitious project. Wish u the best.
Ways a recommended starting steam engine. I love Old steam machines tractions, classics I swear this is future me.
I'm not an engineer I'm a musician, this made me smile, me too! how do we end up doing these sort of things from playing guitar and such! I also paint, both art(in oils) and commercial bodywork( on cars,bikes etc) just started getting into model engineering and really enjoying it( moving house soon so will set up a foundry and workshop properly then) thanks for the vids Keith, they help us newbies a lot!.
Dan,leicester.u.k.
I like your videos, While you are talking seeing images is much better than seeing a person just talking like I see in other videos
thank you for being so instructive and practical
Very nice video....the O ring mandrel is brilliant!
Paul
The "expanding O ring" mandrel is so very useful and an incredibly simple thing to make too - ideal for the job :-)
Thank you for this video, I made a mandrell from a mild steel bar and a cannon shell, i successfully faced each end of a cylinder block
for my first locomotive build. Thank you so very much! wish i could post a picture.
I don't have a milling machine and was considering buying one to build the kit I received for Christmas. I just came across your video showing how to machine and drill out for the piston. I recently completed the piston and the project is basically on hold. After seeing your great video, I am anxious to have a go at working on the cylinder. I have a lathe and many of the tools necessary to drill and hone the cylinder. Thanks for sharing this great video. First project will be the mandrel, then setting up my four jaw chuck. Ken ...Marina California
I Really love that mandrel and o-ring tip! Definitely be using that one in the future!
Thanks Keith for this, just like your other videos, both entertaining and educational! I was able to take a few things along for myself.
Nice job as always
Thank you!
That's a really great tip, and even better to see how to do it thanks Keith, another one for my file John
Awesome work! I have a stuart s50 I bought at a thrift shop (not kidding) for a great price, and now I'm learning all about steam engines so I can assemble what I have. I was lucky enough to get most of what I need to lay out a complete working setup. It was really cool to see what work goes into tooling a cylinder, I look forward to your other videos.
Keith-thanks for this, love your POV and humor.....reminds me of Guy Lautard !
i love the o-ring mandrel. i'm going to shamelessly plagiarize the technique. thank you!!!
Nicely done, Keith. Thank you. Your commentary was great on the reasons why...
Excellent video. I've been a machinist for many years and I can always learn something new. The o-ring mandrel is a very good idea. Been making and using mandrels for a long time, something to add to my collection. Thank you for the video.
Hello Keith, I've stumbled across your videos and am most impressed. I have a small mill and soon will have a myford super 10 lathe to enable me to start my own builds so your videos are very welcome.
Nice idea to clamp the Part with this o-rings :) It's an easy workaround. :)
OK, I like your trick boring then using the same tool to face the part. Key word of this video, "Mandrel". Thanks for the video, and yes they do come in useful.
Perfect is the enemy of good. Mr. Appleton shows how to machine a part so that it is very good indeed, but not perfect. If one tries to make it perfect, it will only get worse.
Another wonderful video. Thank you!
Excellent ! not only are you a skilled at what you do . You are a very good teacher, clear and precise.
Brilliant video, very interesting, thank you
Thank you! This was yet another high-quality, very useful video. I loved the comprehensive, easy to understand commentary.
Great help, thank you.
Mr. Keith, I really appreciate your work and the quality of your teaching videos. Great Job!
Very informative video thanks
How do you set it up if the cored hole is not centered in the casting?
Try to get it as near as you can between the cored hole & the outer part of the casting - it's often a compromise . . .
Very very nice! Thanks!
Very enjoyable.
The most accurate way to bore with the lathe is to mount the work piece on the cross slide and mount a boring head in the spindle using the lathe like a horizontal boring machine. Because chucks always have runout, holding the work in the chuck can result in a tapered bore.
I usually use a chuck because my Lathe doesn't have any T slots on the cross slide and I have never turned a tapered bore using the chuck method . . .
Clear and informative. Ta much.
Nice work!
Hello! As a (perhaps) over enthusiastic novice I have just bought a 3" Southworth pump from you friends at Blackgates as I thought I should try and get stuck in! The cylinder casting is just a very satisfying solid block of (I believe) phosphor bronze with the ends clearly being cut and the rounded top and port face being cast surfaces still- I only have a small lathe at present. I was wondering whether in this kind of scenario you would recommend facing the port face first and then facing the ends so as to try and 'square' it up before finding the point for the bore? Or would you just try and put your bore in and then face them as you did afterward in the video, before then facing the port face? Sorry if this is a silly question, I'm happy to be told so if it is!! Great videos thanks!
Personally, I would machine the pump cylinder as I show in the video.
@@keithappletonas always you are a genius... Re-watched the video again (3rd time) and lo-behold you answered my question! I must be a slow learner! Thanks 👍
12:40 I wish the S50 cylinders had the steam ways already cast in haha. not looking forward to angle drilling 3/32" thru to hit the ports
Keith, In the video you stated that the boring tool used to bore the cylinder should be used to face the end of the cylinder in order to make certain that the bore and the face will be exactly 90 degrees to each other. But that doesn't make sense to me, because as long as your lathe cross slide moves 90 degrees in reference to the centerline of the lathe chuck, the face will always be 90 degrees to the bore regardless of the tool that you use for facing. What am I missing here?
the cylinder bore must run perfectly true to make sure that the face is at 90 degrees
Thank you for another excellent video. I could watch your good work for hours! I do have a question though, should you when boring the cylinder, conclude the Job with a reamer to get an absolutely true inner cylinder Wall?
Please keep up the good work!
Best regards from darkest Germany!
No you don't need a reamer, a good sharp boring tool used as shown in the video gives a very good and very true inner cylinder wall surface finish.
Thank you
Quick question, not being critical. Why don’t you mill the port face versus setting it up in the four jaw? I’m a newbie and have my first Stuart kit waiting on me on home. Can’t wait to get started, you have been extremely helpful.
As the cylinder casting is already in the 4 jaw chuck it's easy enough to just reposition it . . . . sometimes I do mill the port faces in my milling machine but then I have to remove the normal milling chuck to mount the face cutter etc etc - which takes more time.
I do enjoy your videos, thank you for putting them online. Could I use a milling machine for boring a cylinder? Would there be a downside?
No, if your Miller is accurate, all should be fine.
Seems like you have to be very patient to do this. If I were wearing a hat I'd tip it for you.
And in passing your suggestion to make a second pass. This is hardly news, it's usually referred to as a spring pass.
This video is a few years old, but hopefully you are monitoring the comments and questions. First of all I wish to thank you so very much for posting these great videos. I received a model steam engine as a Christmas present. I have a 9 inch lathe, however I lack a milling machine. I have done quite well thus far, turning the components, but the lack of a milling machine sure makes life difficult. I made a device similar to yours in this video to center the four jaw chuck. My first problem is my chuck is a bit small to hold the cylinder. I ended up holding the cylinder just on the outer edge and was successful in making a perfect facing cut. As you can well imagine it is a bit perilous with the lathe spinning and being held by just that edge. I am about to bore the cylinder, but I will still need to face the other side. Do you have a video showing how you made that great expanding O ring mandrel . Thanks again for the great videos. I look forward to more great videos, providing the cylinder doesn't come loose and take me out. Ken ...PS I am 79 years old and appreciate all the help I can get.
I didn't make a video showing how to make the mandrel, I may do in the future though.
Curious, but wouldn't it be easier to run the port face through the milling machine instead of trying to work with a lathe chuck? Or is it extremely difficult to get it to sit level in the mill vice?
I wanted to show the lathe operation - not everyone has a milling machine . . . . .
Ah, yeah it was interesting to see how you're supposed to mount it with a lathe chuck, I was always a bit confused on how that'd work. Of course the only thing I've ever made in a lathe were some pulleys for farm equipment, and cylindrical objects.
As a novice I would to thank you for your advice. When you say slow RPM for the lathe what speed are you using please
I never take much notice to be hones, I will have a look on the plate on the front of the lathe and see what the speed is that I run at most often, it's in the middle position . . .
@@keithappleton Thanks
Hi Keith, great series of videos! Ive done a fair bit of machining with work but never machined cast iron. I know you say to take a first deep cut to get under the skin, what sort of depth of cut do you use for this, about 0.5 -- 1mm or deeper?
About 2mm would probably suffice depending how rough the surface of the casting is.
Keith, could you do something on, say, locomotive drivers? I've just got the plans for an LBSC Pamela and I think I'm in wayyyyy over my head.
My son (the welder of the family) was wondering if steel is an appropriate material for steam engine cylinders, or is cast iron the only way to go?
Thank you.
Steel is OK, (f you are a welder) because you can weld on the steam chest - otherwise the options are to either bolt on a shaped steam chest or mill a complete cylinder assembly from a solid block of steel - which for me makes castings a good option . . .
Is there a way I can make a double acting cylinder WITHOUT having to cast it? Couldn't brass pipe be used?
machine it from bar stock - or just buy a casting - a tube may not be internally accurate.
How would a graphite piston ring/cap disk hold up?
graphite is very nasty to work with
Can anyone explain why the tailstock appears to be moving up and down as the four jaw chuck is rotated? Approx 3m30s into the video.
+Hunter 2008 Because it is a very old well worn tailstock & I didn't need to clamp it up for this operation.
Listen at around 4.30.
You make no attempt to blow the swarf out as it develops. My understanding was that a buildup of swarf leaves a scratched finish on the work, ie. rougher than it ought to be. Any comment?
Not necessary with cast iron & blowing swarf away with an air line is definitely not recommended . . . . .
Keith Appleton Thanks, I knew blowing out swarf is not recommended but still wonder whether that swarf going round and round scores the finish.
AKLDGUY No it doesn't seem to damage the surface finish at all .......
+AKLDGUY cast iron has lots of carbon and that is kind or a lube to keep swarf from galling.
just curious mate do you think it would be to difficult to cast the thing from scratch, just im pretty piss poor and I want to do this sort of thing.
kind regards
rob
rob tyler To home cast parts in cast iron in a home workshop I would think is difficult and probably not practical. A friend of mine casts his own aluminium model engine crankcases at home, but they are very small.
+rob tyler there are videos of backyard casting iron. just needs coke and a air blower.
"...first cut is the deepest...." ? ;-)
i am not a engineer but a musician. wich that my engineers where musicians.
}:-)))
I came for the sand!
or you could just grab a dial indicator :]
These videos are designed for BEGINNERS - I didn't have a Dial Test Indicator when I was a beginner . . . . .
@@keithappleton fair enough however, my very first purchase was an indicator. I don't even own a lathe and I have 2-3 indicators :) I just think it's easier to start off with it that's all. Quick and dirty's all good but precision is better.
he business at the start of making a mandrel and assuming the cored hole will take it centrally and securely coudl be avoided by learning to use a 4 jaw and t'rack'o't'ee.
Not many people can use 't'rack'o't'ee these days.
+Rose White good idea - why not make a video about it ......
no workshop these days.
I have been designing and machining a pair of 1600 inch 24 cylinder engines al la Napier Sabre for a Land Speed Record attempt car - its all in my head at the moment until money materialises.