It was bound to happen at some stage - while disassembling this sub frame i was blindly sticking my fingers in a dark area and all of a sudden had a big black spider crawl up my hand. That gets the heart started I’ll give you tip. Gonna have to fumigate this red 124.
The outer lower bushings when worn wear the outer side tread of the tyres and your constantly moving the wheel when driving, to compensate! The early w124 chassis is a great car
Another way i used to remove the bearing race from the spindle was jo use a Dremel with a cut off disc and just cut a grove in to it without going all the way through. I heard a "ping" after letting it sit for a few minutes and i could pull it off with 2 fingers.
Hello from the Netherlands! Could I ask where you got the tool to remove the balljoint bushing from? I am looking to restore the subframe on my t124 as well!
I just happened to be spending Christmas in North Carolina, and could not resist the temptation to tune in. Hope your Christmas was good. How's the finger? Lord knows you make it seem all so easy, but I'm sure you have the elbow grease going 💪. I'm not ready to drop my rear subframe yet, but will do so before summer. What "special tool"did you need to remove the loose joints on the rear assembly. Great job and awesome presentation as always. I'm staying tuned👍
SpinningVinyl the finger has many injured friends now too. I need to pace myself and stop with the personal injuries. I’ll make a video of the tool and pulling out the joints today. Hopefully I dont get yet more injuries in the process
Doing the rear bearings on a W124 Wagon, and it’s not looking good. Removed the hub that needs bearing replaced to find the 20 ton press I bought isn’t even budging the hub out the inner race... even bent the beams perpendicular to the force of the bottle jack on the H frame. Of coarse this isn’t a fault of the press, as I used an extension on the handle knowing it would overload the frame per the rating, but was hopeful to at least get the hub to move. Tried heating the inner race if the bearing, and cooling the hub with dry ice still with no luck. I think the heat from the severely worn bearing has essentially welded the two together. On to the 100 ton press at a local shop I suppose. These rear wagon bearings are no joke!
Yep, i have heard the wagon rear hubs can be a complete nightmare. Some people get away with using a slide hammer on the sedans but it sounds like you need serious industrial equipment to work on the wagons
@@MMWA-DAVE just to clarify a 50 ton at a local buddies shop pressed it all apart. Still made quite a release once it freed up. Was able to do the non worn side with my newly bent 20 ton. By the way your dedication to quality work is a trait that’s great to see, especially on the old Benz your restoring. Have used your videos for reference on both my front full suspension rebuild, and now the rear rebuild project. Keep up the great work!
@@jjcurry4452 It's a shame you bent the 20 ton press - is it possible to return it for replacement? If it is rated for 20 tons it should not bend like a banana like that.
Hi! What is the special tool you have for that lower ball joint, for pressing that in/out? And how did you put the car on jack stands? By lifting it by the differential? I really wouldn't like lifting the car by the differential because of those rubber mounts
I don’t remember now, but ive always lifted the rear end of my 124’s at the differential. however all the bushings are new, I understand if worn out originals they could well tear. The special tool is the genuine mb tool specifically for this joint. purchased from fcp euro or pelican parts, i can’t remember
It’s been a while since I was on your channel. I’m going to drop my subframe soon. How did you get the body mounts out and the new ones in? I looked but did not see any video on this.
the biggest obstacles are dropping the exhaust, disconnecting the prop shaft and disconnecting the main feed line from the fuel tank. It would be best to do this when the tank is near empty, pinching the old hose to stop it draining the tank will probably destroy it if its not new rubber. If not battles are involved with the above you could have it out in a few hours i’d say. Time required explodes if problems are encountered naturally.
It was bound to happen at some stage - while disassembling this sub frame i was blindly sticking my fingers in a dark area and all of a sudden had a big black spider crawl up my hand. That gets the heart started I’ll give you tip. Gonna have to fumigate this red 124.
Spiders are not a nice gift, but Merry Christmas anyway🎄🎄🎄🇩🇪
The outer lower bushings when worn wear the outer side tread of the tyres and your constantly moving the wheel when driving, to compensate! The early w124 chassis is a great car
Another way i used to remove the bearing race from the spindle was jo use a Dremel with a cut off disc and just cut a grove in to it without going all the way through. I heard a "ping" after letting it sit for a few minutes and i could pull it off with 2 fingers.
did roting subframe make a noisy sound when i braking at reverse mode? a sound like friction ...sry for my poor english
Holy shit, it's actually the same as for my 190E. This vid will come handy. Thank you
124 is just a slightly bigger 201 realistically.
Yep, most of the suspension compnents are exactly the same.
Mercedes introduced this axle style with the w201/190E
All 8 arms are the same just wider bridge and 190 or w201 dont have differential bushings!
How about whole skru and nut?
What size hex socket did you to remove Differential
where did you get your service manual
Thats a beautiful ratchet
Hello from the Netherlands! Could I ask where you got the tool to remove the balljoint bushing from? I am looking to restore the subframe on my t124 as well!
I just happened to be spending Christmas in North Carolina, and could not resist the temptation to tune in.
Hope your Christmas was good. How's the finger?
Lord knows you make it seem all so easy, but I'm sure you have the elbow grease going 💪.
I'm not ready to drop my rear subframe yet, but will do so before summer.
What "special tool"did you need to remove the loose joints on the rear assembly.
Great job and awesome presentation as always.
I'm staying tuned👍
SpinningVinyl the finger has many injured friends now too. I need to pace myself and stop with the personal injuries. I’ll make a video of the tool and pulling out the joints today. Hopefully I dont get yet more injuries in the process
Doing the rear bearings on a W124 Wagon, and it’s not looking good. Removed the hub that needs bearing replaced to find the 20 ton press I bought isn’t even budging the hub out the inner race... even bent the beams perpendicular to the force of the bottle jack on the H frame. Of coarse this isn’t a fault of the press, as I used an extension on the handle knowing it would overload the frame per the rating, but was hopeful to at least get the hub to move. Tried heating the inner race if the bearing, and cooling the hub with dry ice still with no luck. I think the heat from the severely worn bearing has essentially welded the two together. On to the 100 ton press at a local shop I suppose. These rear wagon bearings are no joke!
Yep, i have heard the wagon rear hubs can be a complete nightmare. Some people get away with using a slide hammer on the sedans but it sounds like you need serious industrial equipment to work on the wagons
@@MMWA-DAVE just to clarify a 50 ton at a local buddies shop pressed it all apart. Still made quite a release once it freed up. Was able to do the non worn side with my newly bent 20 ton. By the way your dedication to quality work is a trait that’s great to see, especially on the old Benz your restoring. Have used your videos for reference on both my front full suspension rebuild, and now the rear rebuild project. Keep up the great work!
@@jjcurry4452 It's a shame you bent the 20 ton press - is it possible to return it for replacement? If it is rated for 20 tons it should not bend like a banana like that.
May I know this 124 subframe couldn't install to 190e? I'm looking the best axle which suitable with my 190e car 1jz engine installed..
i don’t know. W201 body is narrower than w124 so i don’t think so.
Hi! What is the special tool you have for that lower ball joint, for pressing that in/out? And how did you put the car on jack stands? By lifting it by the differential? I really wouldn't like lifting the car by the differential because of those rubber mounts
I don’t remember now, but ive always lifted the rear end of my 124’s at the differential. however all the bushings are new, I understand if worn out originals they could well tear. The special tool is the genuine mb tool specifically for this joint. purchased from fcp euro or pelican parts, i can’t remember
@@MMWA-DAVE thank you for your fast answer!
It’s been a while since I was on your channel. I’m going to drop my subframe soon. How did you get the body mounts out and the new ones in? I looked but did not see any video on this.
I did it an environmentally unfriendly way. I used a torch and burnt the rubber. Installing the new ones is easy using clamps and soap water
@@MMWA-DAVE Interesting.
Is that ball joint suposed to be lubricated somehow?
Vini Terranova yes theres grease encapsulated into the ends with the rubber boots
I will probably press this joint out tomorrow and show it more closely
@@MMWA-DAVE thanks so much!!!
Hi...I know it is an "old" video...but do you remember how it took you to drop the rear subframe? ( a couple of hours or way more? )
the biggest obstacles are dropping the exhaust, disconnecting the prop shaft and disconnecting the main feed line from the fuel tank. It would be best to do this when the tank is near empty, pinching the old hose to stop it draining the tank will probably destroy it if its not new rubber. If not battles are involved with the above you could have it out in a few hours i’d say. Time required explodes if problems are encountered naturally.
Amazing how advance Mercedes was in their suspension.