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THE PHOENIX | The World's FIRST 5.13 (7c+) | Yosemite
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- čas přidán 3. 01. 2023
- The Phoenix is one of the finest rigs around! Check out one of my best buddy's Tristan on his battle with this 5.13 Yosemite Testpiece.
Tristan's Channel: / @tristanbradford8847
Reel Rock Video of Honnold: • Alex Honnold Solos The...
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Alex's solo was remarkable of course but another noteworthy milestone was its first on-sight ascent by Brit Jerry Moffatt.....in 1984!
TRUTH!
Solo seems such an odd term for a guy with a camera crew. I started climbing in '72, and am aware of the nomenclature. Having done solos where things went wrong, and I had to dig myself out of a hole. Waterfall ice was hard to find partners for, given how expensive the gear was. Well I guess I am glad there wasn't anyone filming those shit shows...
I don’t mean this in a cruel way, but it is always nice to see modern climbers somewhat humbled on these “old” routes. It really makes you realize what incredible, groundbreaking abilities the “old boys” had!
It’s incredible what they used to climb in boots or (more or less) approach shoes.
@@V8chump Absolutely!!
Look this route up. It's pretty controversial
@@isaaccurry3049 Lots of things Ray Jardine did were controversial! Even the Friends he developed were seen as “cheating” when he first started using them!
Climbers overall haven't gotten better. They just have better equipment and because there are vastly more climbers the outliers ie Ondra, are just a little further from the mean.
Hudons ascent with passive gear still blows me away.
WoW, yeah, great work man! For those of us getting pumped on sewing up 5.9's... lmao. This looks like sketchsauce to the max!
Nice work T. What a beautiful setting. Way to rock that jam technique.
Good work Tristan! I admire anyone who is in a position to measure themselves against the best who have ever been. Way to put yourself out there, & make something memorable happen. This was a great Gravity Lab filming idea. Good call.
When I checked this out, I was in absolute awe thinking of Mark Hudon's passive pro only ascent of the thing (and probably the only in that style)
Awesome camera work. I may as well watch each jam because this is so beyond me I'll never get an onsite in this lifetime.
Good to see Tristan crushing!
He made Tied to the Whipping Post look like a cake walk 🤙🤙
Jardine would be pleased
Fun video. Thanks for making it.
Outstanding climbing and video! Thanks man!!
Thanks Chris!
Bravo to you I’ve been climbing indoors sometimes outdoors but I can only dream to be you for now!
Very nice. Great video
Awesome send bad as! Nice filming!
Those finger locks look brutal. Amazing climbing and filming!
They totally are! Cheers Michael!
Jardine originally thought Tales of Power was harder as he could not send it after he sent Phoenix.
Hand size and specific training made the difference.
what a seenndddddd, the celebration is well deserved
Oh yah Jacky boy! See you here in March?
Tristan "No Big Deal" Bradford. Nice send!
Damn dude, nice send!
Cheers Justin!
Great ground up style. At 4:00 you made the crux look easy, that both of you couldn't do the day before. I'm sure this route is really steep but it's hard to tell which way is up in the video.
Nice .
Nice climb
Good job. Stop saying send it.🎉
The link to Tristan's channel comes up with an error message. Please fix, would love to check it out! Awesome work on the Phoenix.
czcams.com/channels/aic14o-Bn3YK5UmDAGND-Q.html
Should be fixed now, thanks bruv!
This seems like a truly unhinged route to solo
Remember it is easier if you don't overjam.😂
I have a full set of original Friends, so this isn't a tick on Jardine. Not a game I play. But friends weren't the original cam device, or even the original spring loaded cam device. There is some controversy over the Jardine Lowe aspect of all this, but Lowe for sure had a spring loaded cam device. And there are all kinds of cams without springs. Obviously Friends were the magic combination.
I saw one of Lowe’s prototypes back in ‘82. It did have a spring loaded cam, but not opposing. Just on one side. But more importantly, it lacked a retracting bar to get it out once placed.
Epic! Any tips for someone wanting to get into climbing with no gyms around?
Look for climbing clubs in your area. See if there are any bouldering areas where you can get some skill and meet other climbers.
Move
There weren't any climbing gyms when I started in the 70s. The biggest jump in my abilities was when I took to climbing buildings. Probably not much help for most people. It was one specific kind of wall. They had cemented diner plate sized granite bricks. Most of these buildings are now gone. But they climbed at around 5.9, and they were great for doing a lot of laps on.
Only REAL rock climbers wear socks with climbing shoes.
Oh don’t tell him that. He will never stop!
@@TheGravityLab lol
Tell me about these 5.13 socks. Seriously tell me.
Crazy that this was soloed.
Edit: for us Europeans you might want to consider adding French grades. I would greatly appreciate it 😊.
You got it Elron! 7c+
I think consequence is the worst part of the solo, Dave mccloud did a 5.14b solo just to get his head in the game for some messed up E11 trad climb, just the consequence would gave been alot less if he had fallen compared to Alex doing this route.
We spent a bit of time in Yosemite in October with some climbing buddies, traveled from Europe. At first were also trying to convert the YDS grades to French, although we've found that there isn't really a point in doing so, except if it's crack climbing in both areas (even then, questionable). E.g. Yosemite 5.9 crack isn't quite the same as 5b face whereas it lines up in the conversion chart. It's like riding a bike vs. a recumbent bicycle.
Bottom line being: Yosemite 5.13 is pretty brutally effin hard.
Stellar climber, but it always bumbs me out when people spazz out after a fall
Wearing a helmet clearly makes this 5.14 or harder
Honnold solo is easier since he doesn't have to stop to put in pro. This is more impressive
Debatable
More importantly this guy has heavy gear on his harness. That’d make a pretty big difference as well
yeahhhhhhhhh sureeeeee
Uhhh…
Go free-solo a climb that’s at your absolute lead limit and report back.
@@richardradcliffe6047 agree to disagree?
This just shows how remarkable it is what Alex Honnold does