That was enjoyable. I would have cleaned out the thread holes first with degreaser and also put some on the screws ans dried them just to make everything clean. Good video though, thanks :-)
Different manufacturers state different figures for their mounts. We've tended to use 2nm on the rail screws. And provided you use thread locker on the screws, they won't go anywhere. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the tutorial, well done!. What if one need to remove the base after it is fully cured? Can Delta 55 or Locktite 648 be entirely removed? Do you need hot air gun and/ or solvent for this? Cheers
Hi, Thank you for the feedback. Regarding cleaning the adhesive off, we would recommend using hot air to start with. Using a hot air gun or a hair dryer has worked in the past, once at a sufficient heat you can clean away the adhesive. If this has not removed all of it, you can use solvent to remove it. Remember to clean off any solvents afterwards as this can damage the finish on the rifle in some cases. I hope this helps.
If I use a two part picatinny base set, will there be any problems when switching my scope to a rifle with a full picatinny rail? I.e. can there be differences in spacing due to the two part base not being spaced apart exactly correct?
Hi, yes you may encounter a problem. As picatinny slots are a specified dimension, you will always be able to switch from a picatinny rail to a picatinny rail. But separate bases are determined by the action size dimensions, so you will no doubt find that the slots on separate bases will not align with a full length rail, which means you won't be able to switch your scope between rifles. On the off chance, some rifles may align with separate bases and a rail. But you can't be certain until you try it. I hope this helps.
That was enjoyable.
I would have cleaned out the thread holes first with degreaser and also put some on the screws ans dried them just to make everything clean.
Good video though, thanks :-)
Thank you!
how hard should I tighten the screws on a mauser m18, I have an aluminum picatinny rail. I want to use a torque screwdriver
Different manufacturers state different figures for their mounts. We've tended to use 2nm on the rail screws. And provided you use thread locker on the screws, they won't go anywhere. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the tutorial, well done!. What if one need to remove the base after it is fully cured? Can Delta 55 or Locktite 648 be entirely removed? Do you need hot air gun and/ or solvent for this? Cheers
Hi, Thank you for the feedback.
Regarding cleaning the adhesive off, we would recommend using hot air to start with. Using a hot air gun or a hair dryer has worked in the past, once at a sufficient heat you can clean away the adhesive. If this has not removed all of it, you can use solvent to remove it. Remember to clean off any solvents afterwards as this can damage the finish on the rifle in some cases. I hope this helps.
If I use a two part picatinny base set, will there be any problems when switching my scope to a rifle with a full picatinny rail? I.e. can there be differences in spacing due to the two part base not being spaced apart exactly correct?
Hi, yes you may encounter a problem. As picatinny slots are a specified dimension, you will always be able to switch from a picatinny rail to a picatinny rail. But separate bases are determined by the action size dimensions, so you will no doubt find that the slots on separate bases will not align with a full length rail, which means you won't be able to switch your scope between rifles. On the off chance, some rifles may align with separate bases and a rail. But you can't be certain until you try it. I hope this helps.
U didn't even say the tork spec in inch pds