Always on point, and yet another masterclass delivery 👌🏻 Completing this step with the cylinder head off so that a piston stop can be employed is just a single step closer to the absolute in precision craftsmanship 😍
I'm working on an Audi A6 (3.0 - V6) and when I initially broke the engine down and used the top dead center pin in the crank, The pistons at the top were #2 and #4 ... I removed the timing chains, etc... and i want to tear this thing all the way apart, but how do I get timing from scratch? The manual sucks and always refers to using the TDC pin which is only good for partial repairs, not full engine break down and rebuild....
How come when harmonic timing marks are set to TDC the piston is all the way up, which means the ignition timing is set off TDC but not true TDC ? Is the piston position you determined in this video only for setting up the cam?
These videos seem to suggest that the factory timing pointer and balancer marks are not accurate. The technician is determining TDC as step 1 to degreeing the camshaft. The video is not intended to suggest that his determined TDC location is not the same as the factory timing pointer and balancer had they been installed. Speaking from experience, determining TDC will almost always "verify" that the factory timing pointer and balancer marks are accurate to within 0.5°. In fact, you should practice this method with the timing pointer and balancer installed to get a feel for the procedure. I do this myself to train others how to do this procedure correctly. Depending on the engine, it takes a collection of all thread long bolts, washers and spacers, to set up the degree wheel with the balancer/pointer also installed. Once set up, you can turn the engine but also loosen a nut to move the wheel to 0° when required. Once set up like this, you can repeat this procedure 10 times in 20-30 min and you will have it down pat and can teach others.
This is the best video I’ve seen on the explanation of top dead center . Everyone seems to leave out that hang time of the connecting rod when at TDC
You should explain where your dial indicator is before you start (did you "zero" it out? etc.). If you don't do that, it makes it seem sort of random.
Excellent video! What's really impressive is that you did it in one take. Some folks have no idea how challenging that can be. Subbed for sure.
Always on point, and yet another masterclass delivery 👌🏻
Completing this step with the cylinder head off so that a piston stop can be employed is just a single step closer to the absolute in precision craftsmanship 😍
Should you have mentioned that TDC has to be on Cylinder 1 and on the compression stroke?
Great video mate!
where do u set the stop?
I'm working on an Audi A6 (3.0 - V6) and when I initially broke the engine down and used the top dead center pin in the crank, The pistons at the top were #2 and #4 ... I removed the timing chains, etc... and i want to tear this thing all the way apart, but how do I get timing from scratch? The manual sucks and always refers to using the TDC pin which is only good for partial repairs, not full engine break down and rebuild....
Is there part 2 sir?
Great video…. Any links to those tools?
Best video for this
how do u set the the depth on piston stop?
Based on the video, and I could be wrong... but it sounds like you can set it at any depth, but getting it near TDC is what you should shoot for
How come when harmonic timing marks are set to TDC the piston is all the way up, which means the ignition timing is set off TDC but not true TDC ? Is the piston position you determined in this video only for setting up the cam?
These videos seem to suggest that the factory timing pointer and balancer marks are not accurate. The technician is determining TDC as step 1 to degreeing the camshaft. The video is not intended to suggest that his determined TDC location is not the same as the factory timing pointer and balancer had they been installed. Speaking from experience, determining TDC will almost always "verify" that the factory timing pointer and balancer marks are accurate to within 0.5°. In fact, you should practice this method with the timing pointer and balancer installed to get a feel for the procedure. I do this myself to train others how to do this procedure correctly. Depending on the engine, it takes a collection of all thread long bolts, washers and spacers, to set up the degree wheel with the balancer/pointer also installed. Once set up, you can turn the engine but also loosen a nut to move the wheel to 0° when required. Once set up like this, you can repeat this procedure 10 times in 20-30 min and you will have it down pat and can teach others.
Can we see a tutorial with tips and tricks to degreeing the camshafts on a DOHC engine next? -Thank you