How I Solved a Slipping Seatpost
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Here's I a solved the slipping seatpost issue on my Transition Spur
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I finally talked my buddy into his first XC race and he was on my bike and didn't know how to tighten the clamp. A couple of miles went by and the seat dropped and he raced the rest of it standing up on the pedals 😃. He did good racing standing up plus he raced it blind. He said he'll never forget it as long as he lives.
Always double check that your seat-post clamp is facing the right direction.
Some frames have the seat tube notch / cutout in the front, some in the back.
The clamp (bolt / pressure) should be on the side of the notch.
Took me forever to notice one of my bikes had it on the other side… fixed the post slippage instantly.
Interestingly, the Thomson seatpost collar (clamp) is designed to go the "wrong way" with the clamp opening 180 degrees away from the split in the top of the seat tube. Their clamps put the screw a bit further away from the center of the seatpost, so they generate more clamping force at the same torque values - so they have you put it on 180 out from normal to distribute that extra squeeze more evenly.
Thanks for sharing! My Spur was ordered today and this will be very helpful when it gets here.
I emailed Transition this morning and let them know your channel was a major influence in my purchase decision for the Spur. Thanks for your great content!
Thanks Clint, I think it's the seatpost more vs the bike. I have the same issue with my OneUp v2 dropper, where it slowly goes down, which is what I believe your running. I also have a different issue with my Bike Yoke Revive dropper where it moves side to side but not down. The Bike Yoke has ribs, which is why I think it only moves side to side, but also potentially moves side to side because of less contact area,
Same issue with a Transition Sentinel with a OneUp V2, I did essentially the same thing but with Park Tool's assembly compound. Make sure to put the compound along the whole post that goes inside to maximize the surface area and friction.
I always use Fibregrip. Alloy seatpost on a carbon frame. Adhere to torque specs and grease the seatclamp bolt.
Great info. My only concern would be whether it’s okay to lubricate bolts before torquing. It seems to me that this could throw off the torque.
It changes the relationship between torque and tension (or axial load). We measure torque but what we're really interested in is the tension in the bolt along the axial direction. Grease as opposed to dry threads changes that relationship. Want to kill a whole evening just start with a Google search on this and begin reading.
Yes, typically you should *not* lubricate threads prior to tightening them with a torque wrench, because the actual clamping force (and stress on the fastener) will be higher then anticipated.
I have same issue. It’s an Ibis DV9. Was also afraid to go up on the torque.
I'm having this issue with my new DV9. Will definitely try this.
one point of note. when you grease a bolt, you are increasing the clamping force for a given torque value of the fastener. This may cause the clamp to fail (ie the same as over tightening) the clamp.
Greasing the bolt was recommended by the manufacturer to get the proper torque spec.
@@ClintGibbs good to know. most torque settings (non bike world) are for dry clean bolts.
could it be a manufacturing defect (post or frame), where the seat tube is just a bit too large...or post too small, where it slips. I bet if you were to look at another spur , that seat post would probably hold a 4Nm.
Same exact thing happened with my aluminum Ibis. Was recommended same solution and it worked…. So works on aluminum as well. I noticed I do have to clean it and reapply more frequently than grease, but it’s not too bad, maybe every few months
Some bolts (particularly on steerers) come so caked with threadlock that the torque on the bolt does not provide adequate clamping force. I almost always opt for torque trench over perceived feel, having said that I will always test these areas by hand as this is not something you want to test on the trail!
9Nm seems quite high, the oneup dropper has a max recommended tightening torque of 4Nm because I think they use a thin wall, that's why their dropper is so light! My oneup dropper tends to slide on me so I always just use a thin piece of tape on the clamping area and never slides on me anymore with low torque :)
U can use some super glue on the part of the dropper which comes under the clamping area, and then on the super glue, you apply a thin layer of silica sand. This was the only thing that helped me. I really don't see the reason why OneUp makes their posts so smooth. 🤔
When you say thin piece of tape, is that tape going inside the seat tube or sitting on top?
@@motoxrdr4You wrap it around the seatpost and it goes inside the seat tube so you don't see it, just make sure you still see about 1-2mm above. I use the thickest piece of tape that still allows the post to slide into the frame and I never had a post slip at all like this, even at 3Nm, Cheers
@@MTBfixHQ nice thank you! I have a slipping issue on my hardtail that I have been trying to fix. Fiber grip and more torque didn’t help but I like the tape idea. What tape do you use?
My slipping seatpost story is I have a 1991 Diamondback Master TG road bike and was having a chapter with a slipping seatpost. The problem I found was the 27mm seatpost I had was smooth and not the same as another 27mm I tried that seemed to fit way better and had texture to it. Plus I used anti seize/friction paste and now that baby ain’t moving at all.
I have a Canyon Exceed and have suffered from seatpost slip to the point I moved on to a Trek Procal, with a more traditional seatpost clamp. The Exceed has a super slick looking internal clamp, but the torque spec is 4Nm (!). Since the set screw is in the carbon of the frame, I dare not “exceed” it. I have used the same carbon paste in varying amounts with no luck. I have not asked Canyon if I can go beyond 4Nm, I would be shocked if they agreed with that. I also use a quality torque wrench.
Most half decent cycle mfg's will have the post length + Newton meters (torque spec) imprented into the seat post shaft. Just simply pull the post completely out of the center column to find it. It's usually located at the bottom end of the post.
I have the exact same Finish Line grease and fiber grip. Hopefully I will also have a Spur to go along with it. Tell Transition to save one for me!
I got a similar problem with a carbon integrated handlebar, where I have to do the same: exaggerate on Fiber Grip and over tightening the screws (between 7-8 Nm) 🤷🏻♂️
Cleaning the threads of the bolt(s) in the seat clamp seems to help.
I’ve tried the Carbon Paste / Fiber grip on multiple bikes before and the issue I always run into is creaking over time. The post stays still but the ticking and creaking gets terrible after a few rides. When regular grease is used, no creaking, but risk of slipping.
I know cases when they had to torque it up to 10 Nm. Sounds like a lot. Always ask the Manufacturer
Did you use the fiber grip grease in the first place - prior to upping the torque? Just curious if that alone would have done the trick?
Yes I did.
Was the issue at the base of seat post, where you tighten the seat post to the rails of the saddle? What exactly was slipping?
The post was slipping down inside the frame
Did you check the outside diameter of the seatpost? It could be slightly smaller than spec causing the slippage.
No, but it came as a complete bike
Is it possible the new Transition had an out of spec dropper post diameter? Maybe throw a caliper on it ? I suggest measuring both frame ID and Post OD.
Good video
Have you experienced any issues with the headset feeling loose? I bought the same bike and model a few weeks ago and cant seem to get a small amount of play out of the headset (its possible this is coming from the fork instead but I dont believe that is the case). Also, I am experiencing the seat post slipping, so thanks for the tips! Cheers
No issues with the headset.
Sorry Clint, you need to send this bike back to the manufacturer and get a new frame. The cost of these bikes are extortionate to start with, they should give you a new frame.
Over tightening the seat bolt will impare the operation of the dropper post. I myself would not buy this bike second hand if I knew about the faulty seat tube, because that’s where the problem lies.
It’s only 2nm higher than the normal recommended torque specs. The dropper post operation wasn’t affected.
This is great. Thank you.
Hi Clint, should I use blue thread lock on the mounting bolts of a water bottle cage on an aluminum frame?
That should be fine but really not necessary. I just put a very light touch of grease on the bolt first.
Awesome! Did you have to undo any cables to get enough room to put on the paste?
No, I was able to pull the seatpost all the way out without undoing the dropper cable.
@@ClintGibbs From your inspiration, ordered a Spur. Arrives Monday. Going from v3 Tallboy. I’m stoked. Want to just get the seat post set straight away.
@@mahmer09 right on! Message me a few weeks after riding it and let me know what you think.
My personal preference would be blue loctite rather than grease in this case.
Loctite is great, but it's not needed or advisable on a seatpost clamp. But of course, grease is also not advisable on torqued fasteners.
@@BikesBlades as I understand loctite is designed not to act like grease and affect the torque specs. As to advisable, Clint contacted Transition in this case and was advised by the manufacturer. So you say it's not advisable but I too have been advised as to the blue loctite by a manufacturer.
Did you see any binding with your dropper post?
Nope. Still very smooth. 9nm is only 2nm higher than the recommended specs.
Have you ever tried 2 seatpost clamps
Generally that's impossible with modern frames and clamps - and it's likely to crack the seatpost.
9nm !! that's not really a proper solution. most droppers don't function well over 5nm. My bikeyoke says don't torque over 5nm. I have sentinel with exact problem. torqued to 6nm with the grip paste. still slipping sideways...
Wouldn't happen with steel.
Don't be so sure ;) I love steel frames, but they aren't magic. I know from experience that carbon posts can slip in a steel frame.