Http://cardinaltruckse... for more info Volvo vnl wiring issues Volvo vnl ABS light on Volvo vnl Aftertreatment (Afm) light on Volvo vnl ECM issues 2004-2019
I have a 2011 D13 Volvo eng and my fog lights don’t seem to be getting any power at the connector I changed light bulbs checked light switch and upper and lower beam switch handle would my issue also have to do with this working harness
My air controlled engine fan stopped working when engine is hot but it works when I unplug power cable from air solenoid that supplies fan clutch. That means I have constant power on the solenoid and it keeps fan always off. What should I check?
How can I verify I have a bad abs module the abs wingman light error service light on shifter stars flashing has j1939 data not received Volvo 670 Cummins
Hey dude, do you know what I could or where I should be looking for if some of the modules aren't communicating between each other? Truck is in de-rate with no codex, def gauge working. Thanks.
Can you tell me where the abs module is. I am working on a 16 with the D13. Looks like the unit in the video. I can find this abs computer. Checked dash and around frame areas of transmission. Has a bendix system.
Where the cupholder is attached you need to remove that whole shelf that goes under the dash. It's behind that shelf and has 4 connectors attached to it. Kind of a pain to get to
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 Yeah, no kidding. I removed most of that stuff today and removed the screws holding the fuse box down. Still am not able to get to the ABS unit unless it seems I remove the entire dash. What is the best method for getting to it? I have persistent ABS/TCS code, but only when it rains. I've replaced the sensor at the wheel its claiming and attempted to remedy all the connections where I could. Any help would be much appreciated. Volvo dealership is wanting a minimum of 300 for only the diagnostics on this fix and I'll have to get it done eventually as DOT doesn't like seeing that ABS light. Thanks!
@@maxenra no only need to remove the little shelf underneath. Abs module sits on a plastic platform which comes off with the module. 4 10mm bolts holding it on
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 I noticed that plastic platform and the module I think with three or four connections a few different colored ones including a purpler. I can't read the face of it yet because wiring sits above it. Would it be better to take the trim off the bottom and remove it that way or does it come out from the top? This is on a 2013 VNM if that makes a difference. I'd also like to thank you for taking the time to respond to my question and also for making your videos. I understand a lot of work goes into the editing and just know its very much appreciated!
Hello sir i have a problem with Volvo 2013 v670 its dpf gauge drop and come back to original place when it goes thru hump on highway which cause ECU code sometime check engine light and someSCR performance low what should i do?
On the batteries the is a smaller fused wire 20a or 30a. Check to make sure fuse is seated good and wire has good connection to battery. Follow that wire to main harness and acm make sure no rubbing or corrosion. That is power wire for acm and can cause the issue you are describing. Check wiring next to def tank for rubbing and corrosion if above doesn't fix it
2011 vnl730 jerking uphill when loaded. No codes. New injectors and cups. PLEASE if you have my idea where to look. NO SHOP seems to know since no codes..go figure.
Hi, I have the same issue, have you figured out what it was? I took the truck to dealership 2 weeks ago, they can’t find anything and just charge me $3500 for diagnostic
So I have a intermittent issue with air in my injectors. You can drive 100 miles or 1,000 miles and when it does this issue, it’s the same. You just don’t know when it will do it. I’m getting mechanical faults on injectors 4 and 6. As I clear the fault codes it will begin to run correctly. They seem to come back rather quickly for about 15 min I can repeat this process and then it will begin to run correctly and I can drive either 100 or 1,000 miles before it happens again. We have isolated the head fuel supply and return with clear lines. I do not have air on the supply side, but have intermittent air on the return side? Do you think this could be an electrical issue or a injector cup issue allowing air in the system causing my faults? When it does this the truck acts like it’s got a miss or a stumble. When you stop the vehicle it will die as if it’s running out of fuel. Once I prime it and get it started it’s fine after the above process is completed. Thank you for your time.
Air in return most likely cups and/or injector issue. I would start with that since you need to replace cups anyways due to air. Issue could be something unrelated to the air in return but I doubt it. When you remove cups usually the injectors are bad at mating surface so you will need to replace them anyways.
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 thank you. I am planning on having them all replaced. So is it true they don’t sell the cups this truck has and that I will need to replace them with a new style injectors and cups.
@@motocarriersllc7258 unless you bought it new it probably would have been replaced to different style by now I'd say. There are 2 different ones and use different injectors. You want conical style. Old style is copper, new is are conical/steel
Hi , I have 2014 Volvo, my truck is jerking when I’m loaded going up the hill and even empty when I step hard on accelerator pedal, the dealership took me truck for 3 days and can’t figured out the is no code showing and they charge me $3500 diagnostics. Do you have any idea where to look? Thank you
Thank you for responding fast. The last time I had same problem 6 moons ago and I just replaced all 4 battery not to solvent the problem, just because it was bad and the problem goes it self it was good for 3 moons and now it doing again . Do you think it could wiring issue?
@@ihorstibaylo462 Maybe loose connection somewhere but you would likely get a fault code. It doesn't sound like a common issue so can't tell without driving it. Small chance it could be injectors, happens alot on d13, they can cause a misfire under heavy load but I wouldn't describe as Jerking.
Hi Cardinal Truck Service, I have been having an issue with my 2010 780 ever since I bought about 4 years ago. When I first crank my truck up in the morning, my voltage on the dash reads from 13.8 to 14.1 but the minute that I turn on the A/C it drops to about 13.1 and when I switch my headlights on it will drop again to about 12.4 and if I turn my wipers on, it will drop to 12.1 or so. I replaced my alternator about 2 years ago to a heavy duty alternator from the Volvo dealership and replaced with 4 brand new batteries and still have the same issue. Any idea of what my problem could be or even where and how to start to look for the problem? Also, I do have an APU unit. Thank you in advance for any information that you may be able to pass along to me.
Try measuring voltage using multi meter instead of dash gauge. If multi meter still showing same reading could be 2 problems. Bad ground or positive between alternator and batteries, check connections around starter as well. Or one of the small wires(sense wire) if broken or has bad connection, try connection a wire straight from batteries to sense connection and see what happens
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 Thank you for the advice. I will do those things and I will let you know. Again thank you for responding and giving me a direction of where to start.
Hey i have issues in my volvo vnl780. 2018 my truck show me lot of codes like ecm fault j19 data link eror and other sign pop and truck when i stop because its lose acceleration and when i turn off ingination truck still on without key on after 10 seconds truck shut off can you help me
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 i got all type of problems air horn not getting power,cluster works when it wants, A/c compressor works when it wants and clutch fan stays on sometimes for no reason😔
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the Info, very helpful.
I have a similar issue with my 2017 vnl780 every time it rains or I drive on a wet road , Abs , tcs and traction lights comes on ,,,any advice please
Whats the part number for the bolt that is used to hold the harness together
I have a 2011 D13 Volvo eng and my fog lights don’t seem to be getting any power at the connector I changed light bulbs checked light switch and upper and lower beam switch handle would my issue also have to do with this working harness
Great videos man!
My air controlled engine fan stopped working when engine is hot but it works when I unplug power cable from air solenoid that supplies fan clutch. That means I have constant power on the solenoid and it keeps fan always off. What should I check?
Am having an issue with my vnl 2016. D13 engine. Maintenance ecu required. That’s the check code.
Hello, I have I shift with code :
Mid 130 psid 232 fmi 9
Any idea where to look please
great 👍🏼 thank for the tip
Hey could you make a video on the location of starter relay on a 2004 volvo vn cummings isx
my volvo 2014 d13 vnl is not shifting ichanged harness and everthing CC works for few second and cut off automatically?
When reinstalling, would you advise to leave the bulkhead connectors dry, or load up with dielectric grease?
They should be water proof but I would put a but just incase
How can I verify I have a bad abs module the abs wingman light error service light on shifter stars flashing has j1939 data not received Volvo 670 Cummins
Excellent
Hey dude, do you know what I could or where I should be looking for if some of the modules aren't communicating between each other? Truck is in de-rate with no codex, def gauge working. Thanks.
Hi, i heared rear axle have oil pump and oil filter is that correct?
Good
Can you tell me where the abs module is. I am working on a 16 with the D13. Looks like the unit in the video. I can find this abs computer. Checked dash and around frame areas of transmission. Has a bendix system.
Where the cupholder is attached you need to remove that whole shelf that goes under the dash. It's behind that shelf and has 4 connectors attached to it. Kind of a pain to get to
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 Yeah, no kidding. I removed most of that stuff today and removed the screws holding the fuse box down. Still am not able to get to the ABS unit unless it seems I remove the entire dash. What is the best method for getting to it? I have persistent ABS/TCS code, but only when it rains. I've replaced the sensor at the wheel its claiming and attempted to remedy all the connections where I could. Any help would be much appreciated. Volvo dealership is wanting a minimum of 300 for only the diagnostics on this fix and I'll have to get it done eventually as DOT doesn't like seeing that ABS light. Thanks!
@@maxenra no only need to remove the little shelf underneath. Abs module sits on a plastic platform which comes off with the module. 4 10mm bolts holding it on
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 I noticed that plastic platform and the module I think with three or four connections a few different colored ones including a purpler. I can't read the face of it yet because wiring sits above it. Would it be better to take the trim off the bottom and remove it that way or does it come out from the top? This is on a 2013 VNM if that makes a difference. I'd also like to thank you for taking the time to respond to my question and also for making your videos. I understand a lot of work goes into the editing and just know its very much appreciated!
@@maxenra only need to take out bottom shelf. Get it from underneath. Takes 5 or 10 min
What is the color and paint code on that truck
👍👍👍👍
Hi sir, I also have same problem. Where are you located ?
Hello sir i have a problem with Volvo 2013 v670 its dpf gauge drop and come back to original place when it goes thru hump on highway which cause ECU code sometime check engine light and someSCR performance low what should i do?
On the batteries the is a smaller fused wire 20a or 30a. Check to make sure fuse is seated good and wire has good connection to battery. Follow that wire to main harness and acm make sure no rubbing or corrosion. That is power wire for acm and can cause the issue you are describing. Check wiring next to def tank for rubbing and corrosion if above doesn't fix it
2011 vnl730 jerking uphill when loaded. No codes. New injectors and cups. PLEASE if you have my idea where to look. NO SHOP seems to know since no codes..go figure.
Hi, I have the same issue, have you figured out what it was? I took the truck to dealership 2 weeks ago, they can’t find anything and just charge me $3500 for diagnostic
It’s a bad injector, but shop will screw you over and say they changed it
So I have a intermittent issue with air in my injectors. You can drive 100 miles or 1,000 miles and when it does this issue, it’s the same. You just don’t know when it will do it. I’m getting mechanical faults on injectors 4 and 6. As I clear the fault codes it will begin to run correctly. They seem to come back rather quickly for about 15 min I can repeat this process and then it will begin to run correctly and I can drive either 100 or 1,000 miles before it happens again. We have isolated the head fuel supply and return with clear lines. I do not have air on the supply side, but have intermittent air on the return side? Do you think this could be an electrical issue or a injector cup issue allowing air in the system causing my faults? When it does this the truck acts like it’s got a miss or a stumble. When you stop the vehicle it will die as if it’s running out of fuel. Once I prime it and get it started it’s fine after the above process is completed. Thank you for your time.
Air in return most likely cups and/or injector issue. I would start with that since you need to replace cups anyways due to air. Issue could be something unrelated to the air in return but I doubt it. When you remove cups usually the injectors are bad at mating surface so you will need to replace them anyways.
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 thank you. I am planning on having them all replaced. So is it true they don’t sell the cups this truck has and that I will need to replace them with a new style injectors and cups.
@@motocarriersllc7258 unless you bought it new it probably would have been replaced to different style by now I'd say. There are 2 different ones and use different injectors. You want conical style. Old style is copper, new is are conical/steel
Hi , I have 2014 Volvo, my truck is jerking when I’m loaded going up the hill and even empty when I step hard on accelerator pedal, the dealership took me truck for 3 days and can’t figured out the is no code showing and they charge me $3500 diagnostics. Do you have any idea where to look? Thank you
"Jerk" is pretty vague. Could be alot of things
Thank you for responding fast. The last time I had same problem 6 moons ago and I just replaced all 4 battery not to solvent the problem, just because it was bad and the problem goes it self it was good for 3 moons and now it doing again . Do you think it could wiring issue?
@@ihorstibaylo462 Maybe loose connection somewhere but you would likely get a fault code. It doesn't sound like a common issue so can't tell without driving it. Small chance it could be injectors, happens alot on d13, they can cause a misfire under heavy load but I wouldn't describe as Jerking.
I had SPN 654,655,656 Fmi5 come up could that be main engine harness or injector harness?
On d13 2008 thru about 2017 the injector harness and engine harness are one piece
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 thanks for the reply. I will try to locate the short that made the 3 injectors go out.
When is raining I get code mid 136 Sid 93 fmi 4, for abs, any suggestion?
Wire rubbed through somewhere probably
Hi Cardinal Truck Service, I have been having an issue with my 2010 780 ever since I bought about 4 years ago. When I first crank my truck up in the morning, my voltage on the dash reads from 13.8 to 14.1 but the minute that I turn on the A/C it drops to about 13.1 and when I switch my headlights on it will drop again to about 12.4 and if I turn my wipers on, it will drop to 12.1 or so. I replaced my alternator about 2 years ago to a heavy duty alternator from the Volvo dealership and replaced with 4 brand new batteries and still have the same issue. Any idea of what my problem could be or even where and how to start to look for the problem? Also, I do have an APU unit. Thank you in advance for any information that you may be able to pass along to me.
Try measuring voltage using multi meter instead of dash gauge. If multi meter still showing same reading could be 2 problems. Bad ground or positive between alternator and batteries, check connections around starter as well. Or one of the small wires(sense wire) if broken or has bad connection, try connection a wire straight from batteries to sense connection and see what happens
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 Thank you for the advice. I will do those things and I will let you know. Again thank you for responding and giving me a direction of where to start.
@@cardinaltruckservice3753
Hey i have issues in my volvo vnl780. 2018 my truck show me lot of codes like ecm fault j19 data link eror and other sign pop and truck when i stop because its lose acceleration and when i turn off ingination truck still on without key on after 10 seconds truck shut off can you help me
I have the same issue with 2013 j1587 datalink error code. If you've figured it out please give me some tips
Has anyone found a solution to this issue
Where is your shop?
Will getting truck rewired fix most electrical issues?
No, depends on what the problem is. Could be components attached to the wires
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 i got all type of problems air horn not getting power,cluster works when it wants,
A/c compressor works when it wants and clutch fan stays on sometimes for no reason😔
@@sturgisboy3137 ac and clutch fan possibly bad pressure switch. Air horn check fuse or relay. Cluster not sure, I would try a used one
@@cardinaltruckservice3753 thank u,where are u located?
Harrisonburg va, cardinaltruckservice.com for more info