For those wondering about the tools used for this job, this is what I used in the video. You can complete the job with other brand tools, just showing what I used personally The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B. A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets. A 22mm socket for the crank bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar. A prybar. A 3/8" drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers. A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B. A small telescoping inspection mirror. A spill-free funnel. - Snap-on CTR761B - store.snapon.com/CTR761B-Series-14-4-V-Ratchets-3-8--14-4-V-MicroLithium-3-8-Drive-Cordless-Ratchet-Kit-P884777.aspx - Matco/ Silver Eagle SBPSE436P - discontinued. Alternate. - ADV - SBP426V - www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SBP426V/3-8-DRIVE-ADV-42-PIECE-METRIC-SAE-6-POINT-IMPACT-SOCKET-SET/ - Snap-on 22mm 6 point shallow socket - TWM22 - store.snapon.com/Shallow-mm-chrome-Socket-Metric-Shallow-22-mm-6-Point-P632202.aspx - Snap-on 1/2" breaker bar - SHN36 -store.snapon.com/Breaker-Bars-1-2--1-2-Drive-Soft-Grip-Handle-Breaker-Bar-P813610.aspx - Snap-on prybar 24" - SPBS24A - store.snapon.com/Striking-Prybars-Prybar-Striking-24--P884980.aspx - Snap-on long handle 3/8" ratchet - FL80 - store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174-Technology-chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Dual-80-Technology-Long-Handle-Ratchet-P646273.aspx - Bluepoint hose pliers - HCP9 - store.snapon.com/Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Corbin-Heater-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Blue-Point--P635770.aspx - Snap-on 3/8" torque wrench - ATECH2FR100B - store.snapon.com/TechAngle-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-3-8-Drive-TechAngle-reg-Flex-Head-Torque-Wrench-5-ndash-100-ft-lb--P759379.aspx - Blue-Point telescoping inspection mirror - UIM325 - store.snapon.com/Mirrors-Telescoping-Mirror-Inspection-Telescoping-3-1-4-Mirror-Blue-Point--P636582.aspx - Lisle spill-free funnel - 24680 - www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500725449&sr=8-3&keywords=spill-free+funnel
+Joshua Felty the timing belt tensioner is a loaded hydraulic ram essentially. The tensioner is locked in place with the pin out of the box. You set your timing then pull the pin to let the tensioner do its job.
MrSubaru1387 i bless the Lotd God of israel for you for sharing this priceless information and taking your very valuable time may his face shine upon you and may you find to know the love of his son yahushua Jesus thank you my brother
A quick question did you take off the bottom left pulley be for removing the timing belt tensioner? As I have the older style tensioner can I do this without pinning the tensioner back? Thanks great vids btw
Yes, facing the engine, the lower left idler pulley is removed first. Even with the old style tensioner, you must compress it or replace it to reset the belt.
I think I'll have a talk with my mechanic; you took 16:5 min to do the job. He is charging me for 5 hours... Thanks, man; no need for apologies. Your video is great, clean, to the point and very understandable.
Quit apologizing so much! Hands down one of the best timing belt/water pump videos on CZcams. Easy, straight forward, with some text assist. I dont have to do this job yet but i figure id get ahead of it. Subd
excellent job with everything. I particularly liked the economy of style, the absence of unnecessary chichat which clutters up most videos. Even though I am a experienced mechanic I did like the nifty snap on tools which really made the job fly. I guess I will have to call the snap on truck to pay me an expensive visit.
im replacing my water pump and timing belts/pulleys next weekend. this video literally will help so much. subaru wanted 1500$ to do this job 1100 for parts and 400 for labour. i decided ill buy the parts and do it my self. parts cost me 250$ thats a whole lot better then 1500$. thanks again for the video atleast i have something to refer to if any problems occur.
Great video! It took me almost an entire day to do this with my dad and a mechanic friend letting me use a spot at his shop with his tools. I had an 07 WRX and this was a hell of a job but I remember the crooks at dealer wanted almost two grand for the parts and labor. One thing I could add for others is if you’re going to replace the water pump, might as well connect a water Line hose to reservoir (turbo models only) and flush out the old coolant from system (we just had the motor run after belt was changed and kept water going until it was flushed clear). Also used the Subaru green coolant and the conditioner, removed the air bubbles, the car ran like a champ! Keep up the good work!
great vid mate. I called around the dealers here - no one wants to do the job properly (i.e. just change the belt and 'check' the WP). I may have to do this myself! The only thing i would add to any belt change is always rotate the engine twice by hand, even when sure of the marks, to ensure no binding/clash of valves & when u go thru 2 phases of the crank to recheck marks. Again, great straight forward vid - it helps alot.
Another GREAT video man. Best "how to" videos out there. No fluff or BSing with a selfie cam about what your cat ate for breakfast for the first 15 minutes of the video.. Just step by step goodness and great camera work done with proper tools!
I am working on 2008 Subaru impreza with EJ20 DOHC, the water pump is OK but the gasket is leaking too much, I bought the gasket from the dealer and all I need right now is to put everything back in place thank you very much for all information and torque specs especially 😊
Thanks Rob great video My daughter has just been quoted $1360.00 Australian at the dealer for this job (timing belt and idlers) without replacing the water pump the car is 5yrs old with 57,000 km and was due the E service 60 months or 125,000 km. Now I will do it all myself, thank you once again........................
This is the best guide available at the moment. Well worth turning the engine over by hand before putting it all back together though! Love seeing these videos to check what I'm in for, and spot any tools I might need or hangups before I get there. I got mine in a week.
PLEASE, if you drive a Subaru wrx this IS the video you need! just recommend a cam locking tool ("23 company tool"). be extra careful with the water pump bolts!!!
this is far and away the best vid on this - I like the written steps(instead of the grunts and mumbling on most) also good steady camera - most guys hold camera with one hand and try to work with the other. Spastics!
I've successfully replaced the timing belt and your video was very helpful! I would just add a few remarks: - After you've installed the timing belt, you should crank the engine over twice to make sure all the marks are still in alignment. - You should lubricate the crank bolt with engine oil. It's also advisable to replace this bolt. - The tightening torque of the tensioner I've found in another sources is 39 Nm (29 ft lb).
+Translations Polish correct. The Subaru factory manual state 25ft.lbs on the tensioner. I believe that the 20ft.lbs was a spec included in the paperwork with this particular Gates kit.
Awesome job! I have a lexus ls430 2001 with 360,000 miles. Every 100,000 miles I have the timing belt pulleys serpentine belt spark plugs waterpump thermostat all replaced. My lexus ls430 2001 is a tank many mechanics said it would easily go over 500,000 miles it you keep up the maintenance.
This video is excellent. It gave me the courage to go ahead and buy the pump and belt and give 'er a go.I've always wondered how replacing a timing belt would be, and I guess I'm going to find out.
Super video. Best I've seen. To the point , no adlibbing, no profanity, very professional and easy to understand. Look forward to seeing additional how to videos. Super job.
Thanks for the guide, it's really well done. I want to do the camshaft seals and I'm worried about the cams going out of alignment when I replace the seals. How do I ensure it stays aligned and how do I get it lined up again if it does spin out of alignment? Thanks
those weird one handed shakey moments? yeah don't worry those are great perspective shots of what people actually can see of some of this stuff when taking it apart. especially when bent over the vehicle ripping on a breaker bar... and i might pay a shop to do this after just replacing cv axles. Excellent video!
You made that look soooo Easy lol. the Driver side bottom cam is under tension and I generally have to fight with it. However, I'm going to try this method. took the front off because I thought the Cam seals were leaking. looks like I was wrong so now I get to reassemble the front of the motor so that I can take the Tranny out next.
Crank pulley removal tool?? EHHH... who needs it when you're a REAL SUBIE MAN.. Get err done... cool trick def usable in a pinch.. well done my MAN.. lmao credit.. and thank you for the detailed info!
Smokín Job. Just got the kit and headed to the garage to do it. I like the crank pulley trick and am pleased to see they generally come off without too much hassle. Pitter Patter....
I took it apart in about 40 minutes...had allot of rust on the belt tensioner for the AC and had to use a cold chisel the knock them loose...worked. I was hoping the ticking I had was tensioner on timing belt but it's an engine knock all the way...so I'll be needing a decent 2.5L....hard to find around here...sucks.
MrSubaru1387 should be MrSubaru1! What a great video. Thank you so much. While it is not my model 2007 Outback the ease and knowledge you have is great. Thanks for sharing. I like the part where you apologize for your arm/elbow being in the way. Not to worry, much better than watching those plumbing videos when you get a shot of 'plumber crack'!
Far out. I watched this then got a pump and got to it... everything went so smoothly and I got to the point of putting the timing belt back on. I was pulling and stretching the belt by hand and made the right hand side cam move a quarter turn. I managed to pull it back into place but wrestled for 30 minutes and had to give up for the night. THEN I watched the rest of the video past the point I was at and you pulled a pin from your new tensioner. I am just replacing a waterpump and seal, so my tensioner had no pin and is clearly the thing holding me back from getting the belt back on. I hope I haven't bent any valves, and i'll see if I can finish the job tomorrow! I hope I can push the hydraulic part of the tensioner in and put a pin of some kind in it.
+Steve Rand +Steve Rand yes. If you reuse the tensioner, you must reset it in a vise. You must press the tensioner in slowly or you will damage the tensioner. Should slowly press it back in in no less than 15mins. Use a small Allen key or drill bit to lock it into place.
I left my tensioner undone for almost a day, then pushed it in fairly slowly with a G-clamp and yeah, used a small allen key. It went on relatively easily after that, but the SOHC engine I have seems to not have as much slack on the timing system than your DOHC did. I had to lever the bottom with a screwdriver over the waterpump to even get it started. The left pulley off gives a tiny bit of help, but not enough. Anyway, all back together, just need to put the radiator pipes on and fill it back up. HOpefully this was the source of my waterfall!
Sir, that was an excellent and informative video. I have a new to me 2011 Outback with 150K and no history of timing belt replacement. Need to get this done. I am capable of doing this myself...just don't have the time. We have a local shop and their cost is $582.00 (the dealer wants $1,400). I believe I will let the local shop do it. But...I do wish you r shop was close by! Thanks again for a great video!
The driver side cams pretty much always will spin out of alignment unless i use the tool that holds them in place, and even THEN they still come out of tension sometimes and so wehn i take off the holder i have to gently let it go back before putting it back into place
Fabulous video for a lot of reasons, good editing, no chit chat, great angles, etc. well done. I can't get the damn belt on and lined up to save my life on a 2011 Forester XT 2.5 turbo. Passenger side cams keep spinning and belt keeps falling off one spot as soon as I get another spot on. x/ grrrr.... It's my first timing belt so I am going through the the noob pains.
Mr Subaru, how much was Snap-on asking for the torque wrench? Secondly I have an 2002 SOHC.Does the belt kit on those have the white marks on the belt to line everything up?
i love your tools please post all the name and brands please there is 24 dislikes those are haters and dump respect my friend i love people and mechanics like you you work smart and make it seems uncomplicated sorry for my English please post again all the tools you was using i gonna buy all of them you have new follower nowim number 5001
The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B. A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets. A 22mm socket for the crank bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar. A prybar. A 3/8" drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers. Needle nose pliers. A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B. A small telescoping inspection mirror. That's pretty much is.
Wish I could do this on my own but I might break my hawkeye sti :( badass video but not sure if I can do the job on my own yet. But with your video I’ll fo it slowly and my car won’t be moving anywhere until I finish the job lol.
Fantastic video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post. Planning to tackle my EJ20G jdm forester Tbelt and Pullets in the next couple weeks. This will help a lot!
Love your videos. Maybe I'm doing this soon. I have a knocking noise coming from the right side. I'm hoping it the tensioner. So I check n maybe replacing it n other pulleys. I feel confident to try watching this. As I did changing my clutch, flywheel and oil separator plates.
This video was made almost 5 years ago now, how is this water pump/timing kit holding up? Considering buying the same kit because its time for me to do these maintenance items for my '98 Legacy Outback.
I sold the car. The guy with it has had no issues, as far as I've heard. I'd highly recommend Aisin. All OE components in their kits. Gates kits have started to use cheap Chinese components.
Great piece of video. thumbs up ... very informative !!! Liked the way you have given titles, mentioning every parts and what you do. Many people like me, can learn from it
This was a perfectly laid out how to video. I =eally have not seen a better one. I just bought a 1998 Subaru legacy wagon and I didn't know about this engines rep for head gasket failure. So it looks like I'm going to have to do this job. I bought it and it worked fine the first day then it started overheating. Then the ignition went out and it died in the intersection so after I figure out why it won't start I am going to tackle the overheating. I brought it up to running temp and checked the upper and lower hoses and the lower was cool so I bought a thermostat. If that don't work I'll check for gasket signs. Any advice you can give?
Well looks like I will have to do the heads as its the only explanation for the loss of coolant and the subsequent bubbling or gurgling in the heater core
Well would be a good time to check for leaks and a general once over on the motor I want a reliable car so I can save up for a better one eventually , sadly I consider subys to be a boutique 4wd Having said that I do love them all for the driver hee hee
Awesome video!!!! Company 23 make some good specially tools for subarus. They make a holding tools for the timing gears to prevent them from moving when removing the belt thy are awesome. If your interested just give you that info. Can't wait for the next video. Maybe a interior video of the SVX?
Yea, I'm a aware. Own quite a bit of Company 23 stuff. Just try to shoot my videos without using them so people without specialty tools can see that they don't necessarily need them to do the job.
I am hoping someone has a video of doing the water pump replacement on the EL 15 motor and the differences in the parts between it and the EJ20 or EJ25???? Because I ahev an EL15 and need to source the parts
Idler pulley, tensioner pulley, we need to rub in some real bearing grease in, the nylon cover can dig out carefully, I saw very little grease inside. I mean doing at your own car or good friend car. I go to that extend. The parts manufacturer also like to sell more parts, so they reduce quality in that manner. Am I right?
I am about to put on my timing belt after changing the waterpump on my Legacy 's EJ20R Twin Turbo. This probably has one of the clearest view of the timing marks I have seen. Only thing missing is if the RH cams move you have to rotate the top one clockwise and bottom on counter clockwise to stop damage to the valves...or so other info I have seen says. See link below www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/gen-1-1995-1999/21838d1323811752-2-5-dohc-timing-belt-question-subaru-timing-belt-1.jpg Finished and this time the waterpump gasket went on ok without damage.. These pictures helped as it showed that there was a plate behind the Hydraulic tensioner (old type) that could be removed and gave easier access. i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ePMAAOSwt7ZXpKaw/s-l1600.jpg i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ax0AAOSwyLlXpKZV/s-l1600.jpg
Great video, straight forward. any recommendations for a stuck crank shaft pulley? seems you pull it out with a little work but mine will not budge what so ever.
After this process my cooling system is not holding pressure. Does not overheat, no visible coolant leaks, but the top hose is always squishy when hot. Anything to worry about? Thanks for the vids! Helping a ton to restore a 97 I got for the winter.
Hello I’ve a 02 forester that’s done 125000 and had its belt change at 97000, it’s been 7 years now since it was done do you recommend I get it done soon as or do I have a it of time thanks.
Just a question ..At 7:45 the bolt holding the belt pulley to the block is set back to a point that you can hardly see the head of the bolt. The belt must put a hell of an off centre load on that bearing.
What a perfectly informative video. You did a perfect job, I mean every step. I feel confident I can take this task in, even without a timing light. lol!
I have a 2010 Subaru Forester with 71,000 miles (non-Turbo). Subaru recommends replacing the timing belt at 105,000 or 11 years. I'm overdue for the timing belt by age but way under by milage. My question -- has anyone known of a Subaru OEM timing belt snapping (catastrophic failure) before 100,000 miles? I know the risk is all on me if I go beyond the Subaru recommendation but I want to take into consideration 1) low milage, 2) kept in carport and 3) mild weather (above 10 deg F and below 100 deg F).
Nice video, I really liked the way you removed the crank pulley bolt. I have two questions, how did you tighten the crank pulley bolt? and do you think I can do this job without removing the radiator? Once again, thank you so much for sharing.
+Oscar Monge tightened the crank pulley by wedging a prybar in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. I do have a Subaru specific tool that holds the crank pulley as well. Yes, the job can be done with the radiator in place
Hey there, a good tip. I have seen a few times Subaru water pumps siezing and causing timing belt failure, expensive repair! the last car had only 75000k's but the cam belt was overdue time wise. 100 000 km or 5 years. Water pump is such an easy job when the cam belt is removed. Just do it! cheers
Hello! I have a 2000 Subaru Forester 2.5l that stopped running due to timing belt being drove way past when it should have been changed. When I went to do the timing so I could replace the whole timing belt kit I couldn’t because a good 10 inches of teeth wore down completely so it wouldn’t turn while trying to rotate crankshaft. Please tell me there’s a solution to this ? I’d appreciate your time if you could help me out. Thanks
Excellent, very useful. You make it look easy. Question: Gates vs Subaur parts...equal confidence? (Some videos showing China made parts in the Gates kit}
+William Hart I used to use Gates kits. I no longer do. I do not trust their now Chinese components in the slightest. I now use and recommend Aisin timing belt kits. They use the original Japanese timing components and the oem belt.
After removing my tensioner pulley and water pump i can see the gasket between the tensioner bracket and engine is worn and not set. Can this cause coolant leaks? Also i have removed all the bolts holding the bracket but it wont budge.
For those wondering about the tools used for this job, this is what I used in the video. You can complete the job with other brand tools, just showing what I used personally
The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B.
A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets.
A 22mm socket for the crank bolt.
A 1/2" breaker bar.
A prybar.
A 3/8" drive ratchet.
Hose clamp pliers.
A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B.
A small telescoping inspection mirror.
A spill-free funnel.
- Snap-on CTR761B - store.snapon.com/CTR761B-Series-14-4-V-Ratchets-3-8--14-4-V-MicroLithium-3-8-Drive-Cordless-Ratchet-Kit-P884777.aspx
- Matco/ Silver Eagle SBPSE436P - discontinued. Alternate. - ADV - SBP426V - www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SBP426V/3-8-DRIVE-ADV-42-PIECE-METRIC-SAE-6-POINT-IMPACT-SOCKET-SET/
- Snap-on 22mm 6 point shallow socket - TWM22 - store.snapon.com/Shallow-mm-chrome-Socket-Metric-Shallow-22-mm-6-Point-P632202.aspx
- Snap-on 1/2" breaker bar - SHN36 -store.snapon.com/Breaker-Bars-1-2--1-2-Drive-Soft-Grip-Handle-Breaker-Bar-P813610.aspx
- Snap-on prybar 24" - SPBS24A - store.snapon.com/Striking-Prybars-Prybar-Striking-24--P884980.aspx
- Snap-on long handle 3/8" ratchet - FL80 - store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174-Technology-chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Dual-80-Technology-Long-Handle-Ratchet-P646273.aspx
- Bluepoint hose pliers - HCP9 - store.snapon.com/Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Corbin-Heater-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Blue-Point--P635770.aspx
- Snap-on 3/8" torque wrench - ATECH2FR100B - store.snapon.com/TechAngle-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-3-8-Drive-TechAngle-reg-Flex-Head-Torque-Wrench-5-ndash-100-ft-lb--P759379.aspx
- Blue-Point telescoping inspection mirror - UIM325 - store.snapon.com/Mirrors-Telescoping-Mirror-Inspection-Telescoping-3-1-4-Mirror-Blue-Point--P636582.aspx
- Lisle spill-free funnel - 24680 - www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500725449&sr=8-3&keywords=spill-free+funnel
Where did that pin come from the you pulled out at 15:30
+Joshua Felty the timing belt tensioner is a loaded hydraulic ram essentially. The tensioner is locked in place with the pin out of the box. You set your timing then pull the pin to let the tensioner do its job.
MrSubaru1387 i bless the Lotd God of israel for you for sharing this priceless information and taking your very valuable time may his face shine upon you and may you find to know the love of his son yahushua Jesus thank you my brother
A quick question did you take off the bottom left pulley be for removing the timing belt tensioner? As I have the older style tensioner can I do this without pinning the tensioner back? Thanks great vids btw
Yes, facing the engine, the lower left idler pulley is removed first. Even with the old style tensioner, you must compress it or replace it to reset the belt.
I think I'll have a talk with my mechanic; you took 16:5 min to do the job. He is charging me for 5 hours... Thanks, man; no need for apologies. Your video is great, clean, to the point and very understandable.
I think a lot of it is cut, done this a few times its like 3-4hours.
@@nihonkokusai - It was supposed to be funny, nihonkokusai! Thanks, anyway.
Quit apologizing so much! Hands down one of the best timing belt/water pump videos on CZcams. Easy, straight forward, with some text assist. I dont have to do this job yet but i figure id get ahead of it. Subd
excellent job with everything. I particularly liked the economy of style, the absence of unnecessary chichat which clutters up most videos. Even though I am a experienced mechanic I did like the nifty snap on tools which really made the job fly. I guess I will have to call the snap on truck to pay me an expensive visit.
+Hugh Owens I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. 👍
+MrSubaru1387 new tools are always a good idea 💡 lol
HEY what's the name of the tool your using 2 take the bolts off?
+Anthony Russo Snap-on CTR761B cordless ratchet.
For realz! Thanks for not talking!
Thank you. This is the best Subaru timing belt video I've ever seen.
+SavageOutdoors glad you enjoyed it
im replacing my water pump and timing belts/pulleys next weekend. this video literally will help so much. subaru wanted 1500$ to do this job 1100 for parts and 400 for labour. i decided ill buy the parts and do it my self. parts cost me 250$ thats a whole lot better then 1500$. thanks again for the video atleast i have something to refer to if any problems occur.
+RJ Gemmell awesome! Glad to help!
Great video! It took me almost an entire day to do this with my dad and a mechanic friend letting me use a spot at his shop with his tools. I had an 07 WRX and this was a hell of a job but I remember the crooks at dealer wanted almost two grand for the parts and labor. One thing I could add for others is if you’re going to replace the water pump, might as well connect a water Line hose to reservoir (turbo models only) and flush out the old coolant from system (we just had the motor run after belt was changed and kept water going until it was flushed clear). Also used the Subaru green coolant and the conditioner, removed the air bubbles, the car ran like a champ! Keep up the good work!
That was super impressive to watch. One hand at times - holy crap. Man that was awesome. Thanks for the detailed info.
Man, Don't ever apologize for putting your work out there to help people.
great vid mate. I called around the dealers here - no one wants to do the job properly (i.e. just change the belt and 'check' the WP). I may have to do this myself! The only thing i would add to any belt change is always rotate the engine twice by hand, even when sure of the marks, to ensure no binding/clash of valves & when u go thru 2 phases of the crank to recheck marks. Again, great straight forward vid - it helps alot.
+joe amin also good to replace crank and cams seals.
MrSubaru1387 dang. more stuff. thanks for the heads up. i take it's not to hard? yoink and tap on with an appropriate sized socket?
+utubeski42 basically.
Another GREAT video man. Best "how to" videos out there. No fluff or BSing with a selfie cam about what your cat ate for breakfast for the first 15 minutes of the video.. Just step by step goodness and great camera work done with proper tools!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
seizethecarp 😂👍
Your car is a standard shift. Clearance on the bump guard over the belt pulley is .050 inches. (50/1000)
Had my uncle put a timing belt on to 40 mins and he is a subaru mechanic 97 Subaru outback and it was easy and still driving it for the past 8 years
I am working on 2008 Subaru impreza with EJ20 DOHC, the water pump is OK but the gasket is leaking too much,
I bought the gasket from the dealer and all I need right now is to put everything back in place
thank you very much for all information and torque specs especially 😊
+thesniperofcs glad to help 👍
Thanks Rob great video
My daughter has just been quoted $1360.00 Australian at the dealer for this job (timing belt and idlers) without replacing the water pump the car is 5yrs old with 57,000 km and was due the E service 60 months or 125,000 km. Now I will do it all myself, thank you once again........................
You're welcome. 👍🏻
This is the best guide available at the moment. Well worth turning the engine over by hand before putting it all back together though! Love seeing these videos to check what I'm in for, and spot any tools I might need or hangups before I get there. I got mine in a week.
+Lee Davison glad you enjoyed the video.
PLEASE,
if you drive a Subaru wrx this IS the video you need! just recommend a cam locking tool ("23 company tool").
be extra careful with the water pump bolts!!!
Having the right tools makes it a lot easier.
Excellent video, no talk, all work!!!
All skill!
Thank you. 👍🏻
Doing my first timing belt and water pump on my '03 Bugeye WRX. Thanks once again for being the best source for subaru repairs!
@@AndrewB23 I made my own and it worked just fine
Just did my nieces 98 Legacy watching this video..order same kit and it went flawlessly. Thank you very much for posting this..excellent detail.
+Mike Reiber awesome. Glad to help. 👍
this is far and away the best vid on this - I like the written steps(instead of the grunts and mumbling on most) also good steady camera - most guys hold camera with one hand and try to work with the other. Spastics!
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
awesome video man. i like the real world feel. thats how most of us work on our cars
+Frank Aranda Reviews glad you enjoyed.
I've successfully replaced the timing belt and your video was very helpful! I would just add a few remarks:
- After you've installed the timing belt, you should crank the engine over twice to make sure all the marks are still in alignment.
- You should lubricate the crank bolt with engine oil. It's also advisable to replace this bolt.
- The tightening torque of the tensioner I've found in another sources is 39 Nm (29 ft lb).
+Translations Polish correct. The Subaru factory manual state 25ft.lbs on the tensioner. I believe that the 20ft.lbs was a spec included in the paperwork with this particular Gates kit.
Amazing job. I'm amazed you did it all with one hand.
+Christopher McGuire tripod my friend. Mostly.
Awesome job! I have a lexus ls430 2001 with 360,000 miles. Every 100,000 miles I have the timing belt pulleys serpentine belt spark plugs waterpump thermostat all replaced. My lexus ls430 2001 is a tank many mechanics said it would easily go over 500,000 miles it you keep up the maintenance.
This video is excellent. It gave me the courage to go ahead and buy the pump and belt and give 'er a go.I've always wondered how replacing a timing belt would be, and I guess I'm going to find out.
Glad to help 👍🏻
Super video. Best I've seen. To the point , no adlibbing, no profanity, very professional and easy to understand. Look forward to seeing additional how to videos. Super job.
+Kendall Robinson thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the guide, it's really well done. I want to do the camshaft seals and I'm worried about the cams going out of alignment when I replace the seals. How do I ensure it stays aligned and how do I get it lined up again if it does spin out of alignment? Thanks
those weird one handed shakey moments? yeah don't worry those are great perspective shots of what people actually can see of some of this stuff when taking it apart. especially when bent over the vehicle ripping on a breaker bar... and i might pay a shop to do this after just replacing cv axles. Excellent video!
You made that look soooo Easy lol. the Driver side bottom cam is under tension and I generally have to fight with it. However, I'm going to try this method. took the front off because I thought the Cam seals were leaking. looks like I was wrong so now I get to reassemble the front of the motor so that I can take the Tranny out next.
Crank pulley removal tool?? EHHH... who needs it when you're a REAL SUBIE MAN.. Get err done... cool trick def usable in a pinch.. well done my MAN.. lmao credit.. and thank you for the detailed info!
And how do you tight the crank pulley again?
@@noventay4 Good question.
Smokín Job. Just got the kit and headed to the garage to do it. I like the crank pulley trick and am pleased to see they generally come off without too much hassle. Pitter Patter....
+mmullaley glad to help!
I took it apart in about 40 minutes...had allot of rust on the belt tensioner for the AC and had to use a cold chisel the knock them loose...worked. I was hoping the ticking I had was tensioner on timing belt but it's an engine knock all the way...so I'll be needing a decent 2.5L....hard to find around here...sucks.
+mmullaley dang. Sorry to hear that.
MrSubaru1387 should be MrSubaru1! What a great video. Thank you so much. While it is not my model 2007 Outback the ease and knowledge you have is great. Thanks for sharing. I like the part where you apologize for your arm/elbow being in the way. Not to worry, much better than watching those plumbing videos when you get a shot of 'plumber crack'!
+Darrin McNeice haha. You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Far out. I watched this then got a pump and got to it... everything went so smoothly and I got to the point of putting the timing belt back on. I was pulling and stretching the belt by hand and made the right hand side cam move a quarter turn. I managed to pull it back into place but wrestled for 30 minutes and had to give up for the night.
THEN I watched the rest of the video past the point I was at and you pulled a pin from your new tensioner. I am just replacing a waterpump and seal, so my tensioner had no pin and is clearly the thing holding me back from getting the belt back on.
I hope I haven't bent any valves, and i'll see if I can finish the job tomorrow! I hope I can push the hydraulic part of the tensioner in and put a pin of some kind in it.
+Steve Rand +Steve Rand yes. If you reuse the tensioner, you must reset it in a vise. You must press the tensioner in slowly or you will damage the tensioner. Should slowly press it back in in no less than 15mins. Use a small Allen key or drill bit to lock it into place.
I left my tensioner undone for almost a day, then pushed it in fairly slowly with a G-clamp and yeah, used a small allen key. It went on relatively easily after that, but the SOHC engine I have seems to not have as much slack on the timing system than your DOHC did. I had to lever the bottom with a screwdriver over the waterpump to even get it started. The left pulley off gives a tiny bit of help, but not enough.
Anyway, all back together, just need to put the radiator pipes on and fill it back up. HOpefully this was the source of my waterfall!
be carfull its much easier to screw up the dohc your marks have to be exact ,not a hair off
thank you very much. And you net guys don't realize how much you help us shade tree old timers on these newer cars. How great is that!!! Vlad
Glad to help. 👍
Just a video of how to do the job without needing to earn your 15 minutes of fame. Thank you, great video!
Nice work, it would be really helpful if you could put the bolt or nut size on the screen when you are taking it out. THANK YOU!!!
Thank you for this video I know what I'm doing when I get my car home.
This is by far the best vid,yet..this will help me with my single cam.2.5..
I do have a single cam timing belt video.
Sir, that was an excellent and informative video. I have a new to me 2011 Outback with 150K and no history of timing belt replacement. Need to get this done. I am capable of doing this myself...just don't have the time. We have a local shop and their cost is $582.00 (the dealer wants $1,400). I believe I will let the local shop do it. But...I do wish you r shop was close by! Thanks again for a great video!
+Flyboytr you're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Dude, parts are under $250 if you do it yourself (assumes you have the tools and a place to do it).
I was going to take my car to someone to do this but looking at this it doesnt look too bad.
Great video, like the style, simple straight forward, no music
+Ross Eryn glad you enjoyed the video.
Very easy job, thank you for filming, the Honda accord 99 is hard
Thank you for making this video. I'm in the process of getting a BG5 wagon soon and have started doing more research about this model.
i live in my subaru legacy 2003. i absolutely cannot afford a mechanic. fucking thank you for these videos. i am savvedddd
Thank you for this video. You like what you do. I see the dedication mechanics have to put into their work. Applauses to them 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
+CHRISTIAN ALMANZA you're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video.
The driver side cams pretty much always will spin out of alignment unless i use the tool that holds them in place, and even THEN they still come out of tension sometimes and so wehn i take off the holder i have to gently let it go back before putting it back into place
That 5ftlbs is no joke...cracked my tstat housing....need a 3/8 drive torque haha.
I had to pause the video and wash my arms off after watching the coolant bath ..ack .😄
Fabulous video for a lot of reasons, good editing, no chit chat, great angles, etc. well done. I can't get the damn belt on and lined up to save my life on a 2011 Forester XT 2.5 turbo. Passenger side cams keep spinning and belt keeps falling off one spot as soon as I get another spot on. x/ grrrr.... It's my first timing belt so I am going through the the noob pains.
Definitely gets easier the second, third, fourth time. Lol.
Mr Subaru, how much was Snap-on asking for the torque wrench? Secondly I have an 2002 SOHC.Does the belt kit on those have the white marks on the belt to line everything up?
+William Ryan the 3/8" 5-100ft lb ATECH torque wrench lists for $509.95
Yes, the SOHC belts are marked.
Thanks Subaru. Wrench is out of my range but its nice.
I'm so jealous of your tools.
gran video informativo.....las imagenes hablan por si solas....great instructional video...
Good lord, this was a major help
THE BEST EJ25 DOHC VIDEO.... VERY VERY GOOD.. THANK YOU
+waikwong711 glad to help.
i love your tools please post all the name and brands please
there is 24 dislikes those are haters and dump respect my friend i love people and mechanics like you you work smart and make it seems uncomplicated sorry for my English
please post again all the tools you was using i gonna buy all of them
you have new follower nowim number 5001
The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B. A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets. A 22mm socket for the crank bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar. A prybar. A 3/8" drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers. Needle nose pliers. A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B. A small telescoping inspection mirror. That's pretty much is.
Thank you Bro
Wish I could do this on my own but I might break my hawkeye sti :( badass video but not sure if I can do the job on my own yet. But with your video I’ll fo it slowly and my car won’t be moving anywhere until I finish the job lol.
Fantastic video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post. Planning to tackle my EJ20G jdm forester Tbelt and Pullets in the next couple weeks. This will help a lot!
+Steve, Jen Q,P Nelson thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Love your videos. Maybe I'm doing this soon. I have a knocking noise coming from the right side. I'm hoping it the tensioner. So I check n maybe replacing it n other pulleys. I feel confident to try watching this. As I did changing my clutch, flywheel and oil separator plates.
Thanks! you have some skills. Loved the camera work, editing, and captioning. well done.
+T Robinson glad you enjoyed the video!
This video was made almost 5 years ago now, how is this water pump/timing kit holding up? Considering buying the same kit because its time for me to do these maintenance items for my '98 Legacy Outback.
I sold the car. The guy with it has had no issues, as far as I've heard. I'd highly recommend Aisin. All OE components in their kits. Gates kits have started to use cheap Chinese components.
Great piece of video. thumbs up ... very informative !!! Liked the way you have given titles, mentioning every parts and what you do. Many people like me, can learn from it
+Karthik Pongiannan glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
This was a perfectly laid out how to video. I =eally have not seen a better one. I just bought a 1998 Subaru legacy wagon and I didn't know about this engines rep for head gasket failure. So it looks like I'm going to have to do this job. I bought it and it worked fine the first day then it started overheating. Then the ignition went out and it died in the intersection so after I figure out why it won't start I am going to tackle the overheating. I brought it up to running temp and checked the upper and lower hoses and the lower was cool so I bought a thermostat. If that don't work I'll check for gasket signs. Any advice you can give?
way easy! just need a torquer and away i go. thx alot that was sweet!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thank you great information without all the chitchat
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Dude no apologies needed you are a true Champion, well done, this is a super, helpful video, thanks for the help : )
Thank you very very much. I need'd a video on that part. Bless you and your family. Happy New Year's.
The video was very helpful and made the job much easier. Thanks for your help.
+Kris Nietert glad to help.
Thank you for sharing this.
thanks for the video. I appreciate your work. You did the timing belt with relative ease. thanks again
+ejmagras glad you enjoyed it, glad to help.
damn that snap on ratchet is dope af
Well looks like I will have to do the heads as its the only explanation for the loss of coolant and the subsequent bubbling or gurgling in the heater core
+dtec30 uh oh... Luckily I have a video in the works for that.
+dtec30 it can be done in car, but personally I prefer to pull the engine.
Well would be a good time to check for leaks and a general once over on the motor I want a reliable car so I can save up for a better one eventually , sadly I consider subys to be a boutique 4wd
Having said that I do love them all for the driver hee hee
Thank you, it will be very helpfull for my 125ch 2.0 Impreza 1997.
Awesome video!!!! Company 23 make some good specially tools for subarus. They make a holding tools for the timing gears to prevent them from moving when removing the belt thy are awesome. If your interested just give you that info. Can't wait for the next video. Maybe a interior video of the SVX?
Yea, I'm a aware. Own quite a bit of Company 23 stuff. Just try to shoot my videos without using them so people without specialty tools can see that they don't necessarily need them to do the job.
Nice job, thanks for taking the time to do this. A real confidence booster.
+Paul L in Dallas glad to help.
I am hoping someone has a video of doing the water pump replacement on the EL 15 motor and the differences in the parts between it and the EJ20 or EJ25???? Because I ahev an EL15 and need to source the parts
excellent video..looks like I get to do one of these this weekend..thanks
Cary Williams thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Very nice job all the best from Poland
Idler pulley, tensioner pulley, we need to rub in some real bearing grease in, the nylon cover can dig out carefully, I saw very little grease inside. I mean doing at your own car or good friend car. I go to that extend. The parts manufacturer also like to sell more parts, so they reduce quality in that manner. Am I right?
Don't forget to spin the engine over a few times by hand to make sure all is good
I am about to put on my timing belt after changing the waterpump on my Legacy 's EJ20R Twin Turbo. This probably has one of the clearest view of the timing marks I have seen. Only thing missing is if the RH cams move you have to rotate the top one clockwise and bottom on counter clockwise to stop damage to the valves...or so other info I have seen says.
See link below
www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/gen-1-1995-1999/21838d1323811752-2-5-dohc-timing-belt-question-subaru-timing-belt-1.jpg
Finished and this time the waterpump gasket went on ok without damage..
These pictures helped as it showed that there was a plate behind the Hydraulic tensioner (old type) that could be removed and gave easier access.
i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ePMAAOSwt7ZXpKaw/s-l1600.jpg
i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ax0AAOSwyLlXpKZV/s-l1600.jpg
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
+Jen Lucille glad to help!
good video I'm considering purchasing a 1999 outback with a bad water pump
+Greg D fairly easy job as long as they didn't overheat it and blow the head gaskets.
Great video, straight forward. any recommendations for a stuck crank shaft pulley? seems you pull it out with a little work but mine will not budge what so ever.
After this process my cooling system is not holding pressure. Does not overheat, no visible coolant leaks, but the top hose is always squishy when hot. Anything to worry about?
Thanks for the vids! Helping a ton to restore a 97 I got for the winter.
If the system isn't building any pressure, I'd suspect the radiator cap. The hoses should remain semi pliable.
Not sure if I’ll get a response this many years later but just curious, is radiator removal essential or just makes life easier? Cheers
Hello I’ve a 02 forester that’s done 125000 and had its belt change at 97000, it’s been 7 years now since it was done do you recommend I get it done soon as or do I have a it of time thanks.
Did a great job with the video!
+Kart Drifter thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Seriously, really good. I feel like i can totally do this myself (I can't) but the video is that great
Thank you! How did you stop the crank from turning when you were torquing the crank bolt?
Thank you!
Just a question ..At 7:45 the bolt holding the belt pulley to the block is set back to a point that you can hardly see the head of the bolt. The belt must put a hell of an off centre load on that bearing.
What a perfectly informative video. You did a perfect job, I mean every step. I feel confident I can take this task in, even without a timing light. lol!
+Frank Rizzo glad to help. Good, a timing light has no use on this car anyway.
Video gives me great idea what I am going to face with. Thanks alot
I have a 2010 Subaru Forester with 71,000 miles (non-Turbo). Subaru recommends replacing the timing belt at 105,000 or 11 years. I'm overdue for the timing belt by age but way under by milage. My question -- has anyone known of a Subaru OEM timing belt snapping (catastrophic failure) before 100,000 miles? I know the risk is all on me if I go beyond the Subaru recommendation but I want to take into consideration 1) low milage, 2) kept in carport and 3) mild weather (above 10 deg F and below 100 deg F).
Nice video, I really liked the way you removed the crank pulley bolt. I have two questions, how did you tighten the crank pulley bolt? and do you think I can do this job without removing the radiator? Once again, thank you so much for sharing.
+Oscar Monge tightened the crank pulley by wedging a prybar in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. I do have a Subaru specific tool that holds the crank pulley as well. Yes, the job can be done with the radiator in place
Can weget an updated video with narration, pointers, etc? Especially if the timing markers are off.
Hi man!!! The most nice vídeo ever!!! Please, If don't need to replace the water pump, do I must remove the radiator anyway? Thanks a lot from Brazil!
Hey there, a good tip. I have seen a few times Subaru water pumps siezing and causing timing belt failure, expensive repair! the last car had only 75000k's but the cam belt was overdue time wise. 100 000 km or 5 years. Water pump is such an easy job when the cam belt is removed. Just do it! cheers
Hello! I have a 2000 Subaru Forester 2.5l that stopped running due to timing belt being drove way past when it should have been changed. When I went to do the timing so I could replace the whole timing belt kit I couldn’t because a good 10 inches of teeth wore down completely so it wouldn’t turn while trying to rotate crankshaft. Please tell me there’s a solution to this ? I’d appreciate your time if you could help me out. Thanks
Thanks for the vid, it was a huge help with my car
+Masada The Ultra Violent Beast glad to help 👍
Excellent, very useful. You make it look easy. Question: Gates vs Subaur parts...equal confidence? (Some videos showing China made parts in the Gates kit}
+William Hart I used to use Gates kits. I no longer do. I do not trust their now Chinese components in the slightest. I now use and recommend Aisin timing belt kits. They use the original Japanese timing components and the oem belt.
After removing my tensioner pulley and water pump i can see the gasket between the tensioner bracket and engine is worn and not set. Can this cause coolant leaks? Also i have removed all the bolts holding the bracket but it wont budge.