How To Wire a Switchboard (Part 1)
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- How to fit off essential components of a switchboard. Part 2 will be uploaded by the end of this long weekend. Make sure to SUBSCRIBE for more videos like this one almost every day!
Video is full of useful information when learning to fit off switchboards for Electrical Apprentices.
Gear used is listed below. All switchgear is Schneider Brand.
Main Switch: Schneider DCK12458
RCDs: Schneider DOM16695
6A MCBs: Schneider DOM11375
16A MCBs: Schneider DOM11377
20A MCBs: Schneider DOM11378
32A MCB: Schneider DOM11380
Switchboard: PDL by Schneider, PDLDBF30
Cable: 6.0mm conduit wire
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DIY ELECTRICAL WORK UNLESS BY LAW IT IS LEGAL IN YOUR STATE OR COUNTRY.
All work is done at your own risk, information contained in these videos should not serve as professional advice without consulting a Registered Electrician, no responsibility or liability for loss, damage or injury is accepted on behalf of SparkyDave CZcams channel. Videos are produced purely for educational use by Electrical Apprentices, Electricians in specialist industries, insiting interest in the electrical industry and overall entertainment. If you are a home owner in New Zealand, and interested in DIY Electrical work, please check out NZECP 50 (Appliance Repair) and NZECP 51 (Electrical Work) which are very detailed on the WorkSafe website here worksafe.govt.... to see which work is legal to undertake.
Hey mate brilliant videos and your work is very good hard to find a tradie like you these days that takes pride in his work and does a neat job 👍👍
Hands down best tutorial I’ve seen yet.
Remember, remember this is generally not a follow as a tutorial thing here because there is more to just changing it to avoid issues
Hi Dave thank you so much for these very helpful videos. I come from an electronics background and when I was much younger about 50 years ago I arrogantly thought that power electrics was rather trivial. Since taking an interest in Solar I have had to become more involved in Power electrics and switch boards. There is just so much to learn and i have been watching You Tube videos from all over the place. Yours are a God sent. Since they apply more to our Australian standards. At the start you mention the Schieder range of RCD's and mention (I think these have a DC/AC symbol on them) What has puzzled me recently is that I can understand how a purely AC RCD works but I only found out recently that the type B RCDs are DC and AC. I suspect that the DC part relies on an electronic device called a "Hall Effect" device. Now in your video I thought that the RCD you showed was a Type B when in fact it was a Type A.
I looked up availability of type B RCDs from Sparky Direct. The ones I could get were for EV charging and they cost $400 Australian.
The type A RCD is about $28. The reason why I am interested in type B is that solar arrays can produce easily 600V to 1000V which of course being DC would need DC RCD's.
Call an electrician. It is illegal to do your own electric work
@@rm0234 however the sad reality is in most countries if you want something specialty done you will understand it more than the electrician and you will have to tell them how to do it to the point that they could not install it safely
Shush, we are trying to keep these automatic wire strippers a secret. You are the first techno on CZcams I have seen using them. I have both styles; one with the holes and one with the ridges.
The Chilean system RIC-DS8-2019, considers more security because the general protection breaker is omnipolar cut (Phase and neutral), the bars must be isolated (neutral and earth, also on 3 circuits must have pilot light) One observation is that in case the electrical intensity exceeds 40Amps. The Differential Protector will not trip since it is not a thermomagnetic protection and it will melt. I am seriously considering taking the EWRB exam, well, each country considers its standards, I am studying the technical language. I have 30 years of experience and I have worked in mining over 4,000 meters high and 80 kilometers underground, I hope you will consider me and be a contribution when I'm in a couple of months in NZ. I really appreciate your exponation, it has helped me a lot. Greetings from Chile
Interesting video, i haven’t done boards this way my tradesmen didn’t even use the busbar for the breakers. Looks very neat as well, gave me some ideas to make it neat.
You are so neat in your installation. I wish all sparkies showed your level of care, but sadly it’s not the case. Keep up the good work.
We've needed to get our switch board upgraded for ages. After watching your videos I'm now confident to do it myself. Thanks heaps
I'm 100 percent sure you should not be changing your own switch board unless you're qualified. Big fines, and it's also better to know exactly what to do so you're safe
She'll be right. It's only 3 wires. What could go wrong?
@@aaronodguy967 okay mate, stay safe
@@R_a_c_o_o_n I'm just here looking for a bite. I think these videos should be taken down. It's not right to show people this stuff
@@aaronodguy967 maybe, but for people like me, an Aus apprentice. It really helps if my boss has no time to teach me properly. He really goes into it, helps heaps, I know where you're coming from though
really helpful videos, 5 years in electrical school and i didn't knew all the things u said, Thanks!
Hi Mate,
Really like the load sharing by looping the rcd feed from main switch to the end of the loop.
I like cutting cable copper in bucket or bag as you do.
Just verifying my self from your videos I am learning lot.
Please do share more because it matters.
I like the way you just get on with it, no BS, cheers.
great easy to understand video. I let the adds run so you make a couple bucks from my view. thanks again.
i am from America, and i find it really interesting that yall use 63 amp service. we have 250 volt ranges in most homes that use 50 amps. most of our homes have 250v 200amp split phase power
It looks like he has multiple services for different sections of the house instead of one 200a main service disconnect and then just every circuit coming off of that. That's an interesting way to solve the problem of coordinating larger breakers potentially tripping before smaller ones
The way we do it in America is time delays, but I guess they don't have that and they just count on the smaller breaker tripping first, but if the bigger one trips no big deal because only a couple rooms turn off
Is January because in most of the countries people can just simply balance loads while they do not need to have 400 air conditioners on and an oven and water heater with every single light on and every circuit at maximum load
I run a separate 4mm to each RCD and Oven/Hob, I'll use phasebar from Hob to AC or submains.
Never in all my years have I seen a sole ring main for ALL mcbs (bad practice)...the main isolator has a big terminal for just such a reason..also if replace an RCD you can't do it live but can with separate conductor.
I also move the earthbar to the bottom and just crimpllink to extend the conductors if needed as it much easier faultfinding and prewiring else a bunch of cables all at the top
I cut the phasebar plastic a bit longer than the copper and crimp the ends with pliers to ensure they don't slide across.
Also I use the white numbered cable markers slide onto individual conductors to identify the TPS circuits.
Oh And I also dont twist the copper into the mcbs/rcds but I double them over as well
Fantastic work very neat. One criticism which is kinda of major in my opinion. If you daisy chain the 6mm active from RCD to RCD that means that in the event that the house is drawing 43A (not including the unprotected circuits) for example your first 6mm link from the main switch will be carrying the whole 43A which is not ideal. It should be that each RCD has an individual 6mm active running back to the main switch.
Isn't that resolved by the ringed daisy chain configuration? Each RCD is supplied by two separate 6mm paths back to the main breaker, each of which is rated to 40A in air for a total 80A capacity.
It's ring main fed
No disrespect but British standard makes New Zealand/ Australian electrics look very cheap. In the UK they are required use 25mm² to link those RCDs and usually they come with the board. And why is the main switch is not a double pole switch to isolate both the Neutral and Line?
@@timwilson6884 But up 146A (16A*8 + 6A*3) can potentially flow through those feeds. Should have installed a main 80A MCB (or lower) to protect the feeds.
@@IAmThe_RA That's a different issue - I agree that maximum demand should be limited by a MCB rather than a switch as installed, but the 63A service fuse upstream of the main switch will limit maximum demand.
That's historically been the standard installation methodology in Australia at least. For example, Western Australia only made it mandatory to install MCBs as main switches as of 1 Feb 2022. The vast majority of installs prior to that rely on the service fuse for overcurrent protection of the switchboard.
Hi Sparkydave, great videos, when’s the next switchboard video coming?
Cheers mark
Next year lol
Dave, waiting for ur part 2. When will you do it??
Great work, I stopped sweating as soon as I saw the real wire strippers, (i thought ahh he's testing us all, lol)
Just a thought, why not use individual 6mm or 10mm cables to each RCD from the mcb's on next to the 63amp disconnecter?
When is part 3 coming up? excellent in depth videos by the way keep it up!!
I have just looked at my switch board at hime dave. I have 4 rcds and they are all looped in 6mm. But only in series. So last rcd has only 1 feed in. Im guessing this 6mm now takes all the current in the house which could be over 45amps.
hey when i got a switchboard upgrade the eletrican didnt put in any new housing for the cover of the switch board ? are they serpose to add a new housing?
best video of youtube
Thanks Sparky Dave, you're a good man.
Kia ora Sparkydave, When's the garage sub panel install vid coming out. I'm intending to install surface conduit with several surface mount power points back to the sub panel. and some lighting. This could be worth 3x youtube vids. Chur bro.
❤how do you wire up a switchboard to next switchboard in your garage 😊
I always wondered what electricians would do if they want to rewire the entire existing switchboard. As I see, the main power comes to the main switch from the street and so the input of this switch gets power anyway. So, does this mean that such people work with the switchboard when power still comes to one component of it /main switch/?
Shot bro good to see some kiwi know how, keep it up brother
I hate finding twisted cables in the clamp terminals. They unwind over time and become loose.
Good and clear explanation. Thanks for sharing video.
Hi Dave love your video can you do an update on how to add a surge protector
You explain everything so well!
Just what I was looking for..thanks
is it true that now all circuits have to have combos now?
It is for most my jobs now. Gotta have them on every circuit
@Officer Barbrady combination
Hey Sparky Dave
Any chance when you do part 2 and 3 could you also explain how you you would add an rcd breaker to an existing switch board. Keep up the awesome videos they bloody good
Yeah in fact I have decided to delay Part 2 and 3 (slightly) by a week as I have got a few videos to film using the old switchboard first..that may be one
@@sparkydave hi got part 2 ready?
Hi Dave when replacing a switchboard how do you go about generally go about isolating the feed to the switch board itself? I’m guessing most boards don’t have a isolator switch before coming into in the board
Give me two weekends! Sorry guys still haven’t got round to it (lol)....been a bit busy lately between work and renovating the nursery for the new addition to the family! Still on the cards to be done ASAP tho, hang in there, cheers
Howdy Dave. Just in process of upgrading our kitchen and replacing an old electric stove with a inbuilt oven and induction cook top. Question is can the oven and hob be wired together in its own circuit or would both have to be on there own dedicated circuit?
great seeing how to layout a switchboard. looking forward to seeing the next part. chur
You're very good at explaining
I'm curious- is it OK to have the exposed copper on the wires going into the neutral bar?
Just wondering, do you have similar regulations to the UK when it comes to brands of breakers used well they all need to be the same brand and the same model or product line that’s compatible to ensure there’s no issues. I find it strange and neutral link by you instead of the supplier authority as happens in the UK because it means that if a homeowner tries to fix and disconnect it the neutral could potentially become potential which isn’t 0 V which with a single phase MCB may leave someone to do work and not realise that it could be dangerous. With the same theme I do find the interest in your main which is not double pole. I don’t know if you have another means of isolation but double pole ones makes sense if there’s ever major issues it can be shut off line and neutral, especially if for some reason they get crossed somehow somewhere.
Awesome. Waiting on the second part
so in australia, the neutral bar for power and lighting circuits is a single piece?
Hi there, can you advise fixing garage door sensor lights, which is going to be installed under cement sheet, no rafters in eve, so which fitting should hold that lights up there? Please advise
love you sir .want to learn everything from you.
When do you use a ring circuit???
Waw! Great video, in the last connect, does it mean it's only single phase that will be supplying them all.
thanks mate for your video it very helpful .thanks
you still use blanket proection in nz? i like the main earth tags
Cheers Sparkydave, Nice and tidy work. A great watch.
Why not bring all the Live side active cables of the RCDs back to the Main breaker instead of having a ring main setup? I know that the rated current carrying capacity of twin 6min is higher enough to handle the current capacity of your 63A main switch, my concern would be potential loose connections (hot joints) which will effect all of your circuits. If you had all the RCD live actives coming back to your main you would eliminate that concern. If you had 1 loose connection it would effect that circuit only. You have 4 RCD circuits and 5 potential main supply connections it would have been that much harder to run the actives back.
Not a good solution. The main switch terminal can only accept one busbar tooth and 2 conductors (of course this needs to be verified by looking at the manufacturer's instructions). The best solution is a radial setup but you'll need bigger conductor (10 or 16mm²). That's how they do it in the UK.
Hi Dave
Please make a video on hot water element change/check .
If the active to the first rcd fails don’t you lose power everywhere else that has another rcd??
If that fails, you have a big issue and you probably want to know about that
Still using separate RCDs? Much better to use what is called where I live RCBOs, which combine RCD with MCB functionality as you don't lose half the house's circuits if there's a problem with one circuit. It's also only one slot, makes fault finding easier and reduces nuisance trips as leakage currents accumulate over multiple circuits.
A split-load RCD Consumer Unit in the UK is similar in some ways, different in others. There would be a dual-pole 100A master switch, and that would feed the RCDs via separate 20 mm^2 cables. The DIN rail bus bars would be similar. The neutral terminal bars would be fed via separate 20mm ^2 cables from the master switch,
There would also now be an SPD installed via a 32A MCB providing surge protection between both line and neutral to the earth.
The actual box itself would also have to be made of non-combustible material (that is metal).
Some of these are fairly recent requirements going back about 6 years.
How do you think this approach to split load is way better though because three MCB per RCD compared to maybe five or six on some in the UK you can make the selectivity argument very easily then?
That's a question about the number of circuits installed, not the use of RCBOs vs RCDs.
@@TheEulerID it kind of is because the selectivity argument which is what turns off in a fault in this case it’s maybe a maximum three circuits or one if there’s an RCBO compared to putting more in an RCD way more turn off so this way of using RCD with three circuitsis quite good so RCBO are better but not always required due to the benefits of this
If you use a 40A RCD for the 10A GPO what RCD would you use for the 15A GPO? Lovin the videos. great job
Question: For RCD's, can the 3 MCB's hooked up to a 40A RCD equal 40A or do they have to come under 40A?
So if I have 5 x 10A (MCB's) and 5 x 20A (MCB's) would it be wise to get 63A RCD's or stick with 40A RCD's?
Can be equal
Hi Dave, can you explain the pros and cons about the ring mains? I haven’t seen many or any does this yet in my 4th year apprenticeship. My boss wants us to have all mains into main isolator. I recently did a full 30ways and couldn’t neatly tuck all six 6mm into it so decide it to do it your way.
Ring mains are legal in NZ ???
@@James_Bowiehe’s asking about wiring the RCDs in a ring in the switchboard like he did in the video. He’s not asking about wiring multiple power points in a ring like they do in the UK, which is not NZ practice.
Awesome. How long till Part 3 mate?
I am just wondering what's the point to have two separate bars - main neutral and earth - when eventually they are connected anyway to meet the MEN. is it allowed to have a combined bar?
I’m from the UK so I’m gonna assume based on testing stuff because it’s fairly universal discovering electrical issues but that link protect you be removed to work out if they’re short between neutral and asked as otherwise you wouldn’t be able to tell in circuits
Hi Dave, Do you have a video on how you can install a remote switchboard connected to the main one? I need a couple of outlets in the Loft to support Broadband Ventilation and local illumination. Thank you!
This is not a tutorial this is an educational video so you can understand how it’s not really a safe thing to do yourself as so many little nuanced regulations for safety that you can’t just cover in a video but you are a assumed to know
Awesome. Thank you Dave ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Hi Dave
Please make a switchboard testing video as well
Great video for beginners like me thanks mate.
can you do a video in Australian?!!!! LMFAO
Main switch single pole huh!!
Good video Dave, I would like to see the other part.
Coming soon, cheers mate
Same buddy...very informative thanks
Thanks. Learnt alot
"Do the old pull test!"
Hey Dave quick question mate your main isolating switch (bottom left) is 63amp. How does it not trip when all your other rcds and breakers use more amperage than the 63amp isolator. I'm just learning atm. Thanks
The main switch is solely a switching device that is rated for use up to 63A to isolate an installation. It is not a circuit breaker. Upstream of that will be a 63A fuse (hrc, fuse wire, mcb or combination) at the street to the property connection point.
If the installation is drawing upwards of say ~45A at any given time, and/or when upgrading/adding fixed wired kitchen appliances, submains, aircon, ev, water heating and spa pools to an existing dwelling, it would be prudent to recalculate maximum demand of the installation to ensure the existing mains cables and protection are appropriately sized for the electricity demanded by the dwelling/property.
If an installation was drawing ~60A at any given time, with a 63A main switch it would be very concerning.
Does the supply to the MCB always go into the bottom. Can it go into the top? What I mean, is are they polarized?
Either way is fine
Very nice thanks mate for video
Can you please make a video about wire calculations please n voltage drop
0:30 whats the difference between a single pole breaker and RCD?
The MCB monitor overcurrent the RCD monitor us the kid or currently escaping the circuit potentially through you or a fault
love the video including the accent
I'm from the states and one word I lrned from the brits with all this stranded cable ferrules lol
It does shock me however the US electoral system is outdated. UK one is old-fashioned but progresses with safety things but the US one is simply stuck in 1950 most of the time do you have experience issues where you want to use a safer product? But it’s simply not allowed.
instead of clamping 2 seperate wires i prefer to splice together as one.
What's your view on combined breaker/rcd? I checked my current box after this video and it's only a small box with no dedicated RCD. The socket and lighting circuits do however use a combined breaker/rcd component. Would you say that's absolutely fine, or would you recommend replacing to a separate rcd unit like you've done here?
Single devices with combine RCD/MCB functionality are much better. It means if there's a fault, it trips just the one circuit, not several of them. It makes fault isolation a lot easier and minimises nuisance trips due to accumulated leakage currents over multiple circuits. Modern electronic devices all leak a little current to ground (which is one reason by type A RCDs are preferable).
Where I live the trend is away from separate RCDs to combine MCB/RCD devices (called RCBOs where I live) for those reasons.
@@TheEulerID Nice, thanks for the input. The important thing to me is that they are at least as safe, if not better. Then the bonus of only blowing that one circuit is then a nicety on top 👍
Hi Dave,
Another apprentice here
Just wondering how many power sockets are recommended per one 16amps breaker?
Cheers
7 is good
Hey bro do you always wire the feeds on the bottom? Apparently people are changing and wiring feed in from the top of the breakers? According to regs
Hi, cheers for the comment - there is no right or wrong way to wire an mcb - they can be fed from either top or bottom. If you can provide the reg that states otherwise, I would be keen to hear. Thanks
Good video sparkydave. But I have a question Bro. When you wire the feed from the main switch to RCD, you jump from RCD one by one then loop back to the main switch. Does it mean the two 6 mi red wires protected by the 63A main switch? In case one of the two 6 mi is broken, the other one will take all the current of the house. This could be a problem. In my opinion, there should be separate feed from the main switch to each RCD.
Your 100% right. If there was, by the worst luck, a short on the line side of the RCD, the cabling wouldn't be protected enough due to CSA. This means the line side for each RCD would need to be 16mm cabling to suit the incoming mains (as per AS/NZS3000 table B1) or the fault current would burn the cabling before tripping current is reached. You could also collectively have a final sub-circuit current draw over the rating of the 2.5mm (20A) cabling between all line side feeds and burn the cabling prior to tripping the mains circuit breaker. As per table B1, 2.5mm cabling should only carry a maximum load of 20A. In nearly all cases, wiring the line side of RCD's and or RCBO's should be done in parallel to be safe.
Cheers for the question, everyone would have a differing opinion on whether to ring feed or not based on experience. The main switch is a disconnection device not designed to protect the cables, but the MCB/fuses on the line side of the main switch handle the job. Personally I have yet to come across an RCD ring feed cable that has been removed from the circuit, the one installed in this board is rated to 98A (ASNZS:3008, Table 4). I have however come across a few main switches in my time that have been damaged due to loose connections over time caused from overloading the load side with too many cables. Sometimes it is much quicker in the field to wire them in series especially if there are very few circuits. My advice would be to do what you are comfortable with.
Cheers for your reply. It makes sense that too many cables cause loose connections. Always follow your updates. Expect 3-phase switchboard if you also do commercial.
Awesome vids Sparky Dave, loving the content. Question, can you have a switchboard above a door. I'm wanting to add a toilet and the current switchboard is where I need the door to go so wanting to move it up close to the ceiling and upgrade it.
Cheers..
Sorry mate you can’t have it there, main switch must be at 180cm height
Even if you want one, I’m above the door high up is not really practical and may cause issues in the future
Hi mate, I’m in aus..running in a sub board to my garage for controlled lighting.
Is 2.5mm tps sufficient to run from my main?
Quite simply you should not be doing this is asking CZcams. I’m not from your country but this is basically how every country count cable size. It’s stuff like the specific type the conditions it’s running how it’s attached under the length as well as things like expected temperatures and allowable voltage drops
Hi sparky! I have a question. Your setup is main switch -> rcd -> mcb. I have researched it and some said switch -> mcb -> rcd is correct setup. Your setup may damage the rcd. Is it true?
Thats not true. Either way is ok but Dave's way is best practice. Your switch-mcb-rcd is like rcd socket.
It really depends because if the RCD cannot be overloaded if the MCB Alfred are working correctly due to calculated maximum load of those circuits generally speaking, the RCD could not be overloaded
Thanks
Awesome work!
Awesome video !
bro... i got ewrb electrical engineer limited licence ,, can i work as electrician with that LC? thanks
Great job
Hi Dave, Can you use RCBO's only on the switch board?
I’m not from New Zealand, but I would say there’s no issue because it is the same protection as an RCD and MCB combined. Maybe you like engineering standpoint it’s the same physical protection as long as it’s approved.
No bootlace pins?
Great video mate! Very clean install. Do you use the same components and wiring for an off grid solar system?
Call an electrician. DIY electrical work is illegal
Well you’re gonna have to do a lot more calculations because this will not work she make her solar system suddenly power stuff whether you mean could you feed an inverter into it? Yes however you’re going to want a lot more practical things and this seems like isolation you need a professional is the best way I have this point, if you don’t understand it or watch some solar in videos by electricians and make an informed decision on what approach
Thanks bro
Great video
Hi i am looking for a gud multimeter, cud u suggest which one is good. I am planning to buy klein mm700 or fluke 177 or any other good brand whose reading is correct and fast
fluke stuff is very solid.
Does cheap brands are good expensive brands that are good? It really depends on budget and everything because yes get an expensive one. They’re good but a cheap ones perfectly fine if it’s a quarter of the cost you can probably afford to replace it a couple of times, especially if you miss it.
What country is it for use in
You should have subtitles for the Australian viewers.
Hi Sparky, do you know in Australia every circuit have to be on the safety switch (combo)
You are correct Sir Valdo
that's not true at all - the regulation is 'every circuit needs to be protected' not 'every circuit needs to be individually protected by an RCBO' that means you can still use RCDs
@@aaronw9035 Yep you are right. I miss understood what Sir Valdo was saying. Well spotted
Why don't you ring feed the neutral to the RCCBs?
The Neutral Bar is an ideal star point to run them from
Excellent
woh woh woh. hold up there scout. Im with you up until you cut the cable ties with your side cutters. Get yourself a set of flush cutters please ;)
Nice video.
Legend
Do People understand that only Registered / Licensed Electricians are allowed to work on a SwitchBoard
Pretty sure anyone can install one at their own risk. If anything goes wrong insurance is void...some people don’t care.
@@-ShootTheGlass- you should get a registered electrician to make it live and test it if you do the set up yourself
Some people live in places where what is allowed is up to them...
Do you have special testing that an electrician does such as insulation resistance and a lot of other tests that are done with specialised equipment or not the UK that’s required and that’s mainly why a homeowner couldn’t as a safety element but also they could not have it compliant without that
Hi Sparkydave, what stuff and how to put power out to my shed
Please do not do this. Is you’re asking what to get and how to do it at this point you do not have an experience knowledge or even testing equipment that’s very expensive to do this.