Single Phase Electricity Explained - wiring diagram energy meter
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- čas přidán 18. 02. 2019
- Single phase electricity explained. In this video we learn electrical engineering basics by learning single phase meter wiring diagram. How electricity reaches our homes from the power station, transformer, transmission lines, distribution cables, service head and main fuse, electricity meter, main isolation switch, residual current device and circuit breaker. Electricity basics, how electricity works.
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Corrections:
0:27 The EU and UK and now harmonised to 230V
2:29 Armoured sheath
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Hi...ur videos are awesome. Learnt a lot abt HVAC. Plz do a video on packaged a/c unit as well if u can. Many thanks.
How does the electricity for a Train Locomotive work? Is it 3 Phases? If so How can there be only one cable, Why am i not electrocuted when i step on to the train tracks.
Nice one
does it make difference wich neutral busbar you choice to connect RCD ?
Since AC changes direction 120 times a second, isn't it more correct to call both current carrying wires phase, not either one of them is neutral or phase all the time, they switch roles 120 times per second.
People like you, make the internet meaningful, don't stop with the videos, you are great!!
👍👍👍
On meter that has two hot and one neutral going to the main breaker panel, is this two phase?
100%
@JJ Olatunji what is sad
he even rhymed hahaha, you and meaning-ful xDD
10 minutes of this video > 4 years of high school + 3 years of college. (Both high school and college are in electrical engineering) You my man deserve a medal and a statue.
Medal and statue would be nice. Quite happy with a like and a share though.
@@EngineeringMindset 230V new regulations tell use TN-S system (3 wires in one phase). It's common to use RCD as last in breaker shelf on rail, even plastic fixtures have a PE place, grounding on electrode is use in place where resistance of cable is too big.
is totally exaggerated. Without school you can not be a good professional !!!
@@mishuvv yes you can, school just gives a you professor and exams with a fancy certificate at the end. You can learn engineering on your own with enough effort.
@@EngineeringMindset bbb
Studying to become an automation technician here in Sweden, 1 year study - which includes getting electrician degree, and the course I take sends us a PDF-file to read at home, instead of actually teaching us there, videos like this makes it easier to understand, Thankz
Even as simple as it's supposed to be, it's still so complex because of all the safety and quality of life features. Thank you for making this.
Wow... can I please say thankyou so much for explaining this in such amazing detail. So easy to follow and understand. I'm 37, I've been an instrumentation designer for years working mainly on 24vdc and I've rarely ever grasped electrical stuff... this is amazingly simple when explained by brilliant teachers like yourself.
Im I school right now to become an HVAC technician and your videos were probably the greatest find I've ever made. The info you give has helped myself and fellow classmates alot. Thank you so much for your videos and I hope you keep making them. Hope your having a good day! 👍😀😎
In my 4 years of Bachelor's Engineering in Electrical discipline, I didn't learn this at all. You, my friend, are a fucking legend. Thank you so much!.❤
That clearly shows how such a papers are worthless.
Geez, man, you had a really bad course. I had those things in my technical school. But not explained in such tidy and organized manner. In my country there was a rule of thumb the best practical education you got in trade schools, then in technical schools and universities. We had a short TV repair course. But we learned hardly anything compared to the trade school students. Because our school was focussed on exams, the trade school was focussed on actually teaching the trade.
what school you went to?
Don't dare to say this
A bold statement that may result in the withdrawal of the title of Bc. :) Better not approach electricity at all. The video is focused on the protection of TN-C and TT. TN-S is most often used, which involves the distribution of 3 wires to a residential unit within a single-phase current. That would be beyond your comprehension. :)
Recently started an apprenticeship and your videos have been crucial in my knowledge base for electrical work. Especially for not being in a formal classroom setting. Thank you sir
These are the videos I need to show to my non electrical friends. Sometimes it shocks me how little people know about the most useful thing we use everyday.
Thank you for the video. In Malaysia here most of our MCBs are designed to have the incoming section on the top and the outgoing section on the bottom. The incoming section is usually labelled 1,3 or 5 while the outgoing section is label 2,4 or 6. The new rule also requires each instant water heater (usually installed in shower room) to have its own RCD with a sensitivity of 10mA.
This has been by far the most comprehensible and straightforward explanation I've ever seen, great work!
Your videos are amazing and easy to understand. I've been hesitant to get back into school and finish my degree, but these vids make me more confident I can survive it. :)
Rcds, what an amazing device. Many people take electricity in their homes for granted and learning and respecting it can go a long way. stay safe!
In germany we typically have 3 phases to all levels of a building. Circuits are evenly distributed between phases.. some appliances even require 3 phases like water heaters ovens and stoves. So we can keep the current low and have a lot of power available at the appliance.
Run through water heaters for a bathroom are typically rated at 22kW and more
Tq ser
That's a big water heater at 22kw
@@dennisphoenix1 What? Why? *Tankless* water heaters (which the OP is talking about) are typically 18kW to 33kW with many models having switchable power to support 18kW, 21kW, and 24kW.
Water has a specific heat capacity of 4.2 kJ/kg. Given an ambient temperature of 20°C (e.g. indoors) and a target hot-water temperature of say 45°C results in a 25°C temperature difference.
To heat 1kg (~1 litre) of water therefore requires 25*4.2*1 = 105kJ of energy. A gravity shower (e.g. most showers) has a throughput of 3.5 litres/minute so 6.125 kW is the lower threshold *if* your water is already at room temperature. Typically, cold water is around 11°C and hot water about 40°C, so ~30°C is a more realistic temperature differential and 7.35 kW of power.
A rule-of-thumb is therefore power-in-kW/2 = litres/minute and thus a 22 kW unit is sufficient to provide 11 litres/minute of hot water. The throughput of a tap or shower depends on the water pressure and in Germany 15 to 25 litres/minute are the norm so a 22 kW unit barely suffices to provide hot water at maximum pressure for a single tap or shower.
@@totalermist in the UK we have more stored hot water than instantaneous when heated by electricity. We have electric showers but are 8.5 kw to 10.5 kw . We use gas for heating and hot water heating mostly , either stored or instantaneous via combination boilers . Hence a 22kw heater would be big for us .
@@dennisphoenix1 Agreed, 22kW would be way overkill for a storage water heater :)
The most comprehensive and clearest explanation of single phase electricity...wow...brilliant thank you !
Thank you for breaking this topic down to laymen's level terms and diagrams. Great job.
Thank you my friend, I've been watching your videos and it's all coming back to me now
Since 1987, Europe has changed its main voltage from 220/380 V to 230/400 V. 0:26
Have they actually changed it? The standard is wide enough to cover 220 and 240, even though the nominal voltage is given as 230. Both comply with the standard without necessarily being the same.
@@Motorman2112 yes, we did change it. it covers from 220-240 because maybe some third world or second world countries still use 220 v
UK is running a single phase 230v, European union is running a single phase 220v. The 400v you talk about it think is something to do with running 2 phase voltage.
The EU standard is 230V -6% +10% (i.e. 216.2 V - 253.0 V). That covers pretty well the entire range of voltages that were already in use, and if you measure most UK households, then the voltage is typically about 240v whilst in some parts of Eastern Europe it's closer to 220V.
The EU nominal 230V standard is more of a specification for those designing electrical appliances to the sold in the market as it made no real change to individual country standards.
@@TheEulerID You are 10 years out of date. Europe is 230V +/-10% since 2009.
Incredibly well spoken with clean diagrams. This is a fantastic lecture
This video is the best so far in this topic. None other material explains so clearly and simply the wiring of the main service panel. Thank you so much! As I am a teacher of technical English in secondary school, I'll certainly make use of this presentation. God bless you:-)
Mate, thank you so much for this masterpiece.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Im looking forward to that north America version, you got yourself another sub!
Wow, now thats what you call proper teaching. Thanks so much, made it so simple to understand.
Now I am in electrican course and this helped me a lot.God bless you for your amazing work.
Thank you very much!! Ive seen installs with RCD's where the null bars are a single bar. Very sketchy and your video helped me clearly understand the right way to do it :)
Wonderful! Easy to follow with great visualization.
thanks for this, I have been watching Thomas Naggy doing electrical work and now I finally will understand some of what he is talking about. I hope you have one on ring circuits somewhere as well, if not I would like to see one. I kind of know how they work just not sure of the exact benefits and why we don't use it in the states and so forth. Very informative video, well done.
very clear and very informative explanation. Engaging till the very end. Thank you for putting in all the efforts in creating this video. Appreciate it.
Finally! A satisfying explanation of neutral/earth!
Erf
One of the best video I've watched so far on single phase electricity. Super easy to understand. Keep up the good work.
Perfectly explained, straightforward and concise, thank you!
What a clear explanation, I wish my dad who was an electrician could have sat down with me and explained it in this manner, I might have been an electrician as well if I could have grasped these concepts earlier. You could also say I should have piped up and asked him!
The best video ever. Engineering mindset, can u do a video on what kind of software/computer programming are usually used by engineers in their projects. Thanks a lot.
“Touch the brown wire and you’ll shit yourself” best way to remember active wire in Australia.
🤣🤣🤣
I've always thought the blue neutral brown live wires in Oz was a bad choice of colours. Brown is the color of dirt earth. So could be reasoned to be neutral. Why would baby blue represent live? I can't reason why?
@@Swenser it used to be green, black and red, not good for colour blindness. Blue and brown are easily distinguished even with colour blindness.
COLOR MEANS NOTHING,
this is way more informative that any other how to videos out there, thanks for sharing
Great video. This is revision for me but badly needed on saying that. Great visualization as previously commented. thanks for your great work
I'm leaning in Germany the electricity since 2 years ,and I found it so complicated,but now with this easy video it leted me understand how the connections are going.
Thank a lot 👍🏼👍🏼
German power installation is especially complicated, with all the added security stuff. Can't speak for other countries, but here they sometimes tend to get a little overzealous with their protection. I've been an electricition for around 15 years now, but I can't figure out most of the installation stuff, without a wire plan :D
In Singapore we use ELCB (EARTH LEAKAGE CB). It works similarly to RCD but are extremely sensitive and it will also trip instantly by touching the Neutral wire.
The Neutral wire is actually connected to the other end of the power station generator coil so theoretically both Live and Neutral are live.
Thanks mate, im currently studying my electrical engineering and your videos are very helpful.
It was great video engineering mindset it was a great tool in understanding how current work in a single phase your a better teacher.
In China, it seems to be pretty common for the main fuse to be just another circuit breaker and for plug circuits to be protected by a combined RCD/MCB while the lighting circuits to be protected only with an MCB. Amazing video, I really love the animations.
Interesting to hear, thanks for sharing
他这个视频上面好像也是啊，插座是漏电保护器和断路器，灯是断路器
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Su video es maravilloso, le agradecemos por compartir esta útil información con todos.
SOMOS MUY FELICES Y ESPERAMOS SEGUIR EL SIGUIENTE CAMINO.
Wow... What a great video tutorial. I love it. The explanations are clear and audible...
Thanks
Thanks. Very educational. Specially Earth connection
this was helpful bro.. thanks for keeping it simple for beginers in electrical engineering like us
Great video. Very informative and clear. Makes it so easy to understand the basic principles.
Very important knowledge Improving lives ,God bless you
In the Neterlands, the MCBs are double pole. So instead of the circuits terminating on a neutral block, they terminate back on the MCB. Then the MCBs are connected to their RCD, the rest is pretty much the same.
Oh, and fore some reason, we usually connect them from bottom to top instead of top to bottom. (So live comes in on the bottom of the MCB/RCD and leaves through the top).
@@robo_374 uhm, well... In the Netherlands there is the NEN1010 standard, which is a guideline, not enforced by law. On the other hand, if you deviate from the NEN 1010, fire insurance may decide not to reimburse damages if they find out.
So I think NEN 1010 requires 2P, but there is no law to do so.
Also, there's a lot of grandfathering. If you have old fuses, there is no requirement to upgrade to MCBs, and fuses by definition are 1P.
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Here in Germany we usually don't have any main switches ourselves. They usually are property of the service provider and would be sealed to prevent being operated by any private person. Usually we trip the RCD in order to get power disconnected from all appliances and, for example, install a new circuit breaker, which by the way in Germany has usually a current rating of 16 amps. In public buildings/areas and schools there must be a 10 amp breaker installed. Also we have usually 3 phases (brown, black,grey) with 230V AC , and one combined cable for neutral/earth (green/yellow) straight to our houses. Also it's normal here to have the electricity meter inside the house in our fuse box.
Seen our new incredibly detailed MCB video? link: czcams.com/video/gqEu9t8HwW0/video.html
Made that so easy to understand I’m officially no longer confused thanks
Cheers bro I’m a level 2 electrical apprentice so this really helped to get my head round it 👍
By god sir you're the best teacher there is in the whole world! .......The explanations are precise and easily understandable ........You're really a living legend ! .....God bless you
Here on Luxembourg, we receive trifase in our homes, and the connections are the same as you explained. A little detail I learned from work. We connect the Ground cable with the Neutral before the RCD, just in case the incoming Neutral breaks and everything inside the house melts, because the 230v outlets would receive 400v instead.
Wow actually found this video super useful and easy to understand unlike most other electrical videos on here
learnt more with 10 minutes video than 4 years of electrical engineering school....jeez you sir you are the real MVP
Another brilliant video. Extremely informative and easy to follow. Just waiting for a “How an EV charge point works” now!
Very good video but from my point of view you should add main MCB after the main switch, for example 63A or something smaller from the electricity meter FUSE to protect it and don't have to replace it in case of over-current
Seen our new incredibly detailed MCB video? link: czcams.com/video/gqEu9t8HwW0/video.html
Was searching for such a video all this while. Thanks a lot man!
I've watched a few videos, this was by FAR the best explanation. Well done sir
In the Scandinavian countries (atleast Sweden) we have all of the three phases in our houses and even apartments, mainly for the oven and the boiler.
Here in Germany we also have three phase power to our homes, also mainly for boilers and ovens.
Make sense...you guys are drawing amps 😉
Yes, this is standard in almost all of Europe with three phase to the homes.
0:28
I'm from Germany - The current mains voltage is between 230 and 240V. 220V is outdated.
0:40
We use 3-phase 230 and 3-phase 400V in our homes.
1:43
In Germany you will very rarely find individual transformers for individual houses.
Here are usually placed a little larger transformers and supply several houses (often the whole block of houses).
2:18
With us every building with 3x230 / 400V is fed. For older buildings, there are only AC meters for the individual apartments. In modernized or new buildings, three-phase meters are used.
2:33
With us the wires from the Transformer contains 3 Phases and PEN (PE and N combined). It's also called "TN-C System". Before the Cable came to the Houses there are big NH-Fuses in small electric-cabinets at the side walk.
Each building MUST be equipped with a separate foundation earth or similar. In modernized or new buildings the incoming TN-C System is converted to a TN-C-S System, where N and PE are separated.
1. I agree with this
2. Yes, 3 phase system used by induction kitchen
3. Small transformers is common on more rural area like a farm
4. Agree because new style appliance and gas limited offer (gas don't go more than 3rd floor)
5 TN-C on transformer side but every new building must have TN-S system on electric-cabinets side
Small addition to the last point. TN-C-S is the whole GRID from generator to consumer. The part inside installatian that is using PE and N split up is just TN-S. The Midvoltage grid (The small city stuff) itself is using TN-C
(Hence why the whole power system is called TN-C-S.)
For anyone curious thats reading this and wants to know some more stuff about what I'm talking about
The Letters have meanings.
First letter is how the local transformer is set up in its neutral point. T stands for Terra (latin) which means its grounded/earthed.
Second letter describes how the house is set up. T means direct earth/ground (so no direct cable connection between PE and N) N means it is AT LEAST directly connected to the Neutral point of the transformer. (PE and N can either be seperated or combined, which is what the third letter means. the fourth option, TN-C-S, is basically a combination of a combined PE+N and seperated. Which is what is used in the standart grid due to safety.
As an electrical engineering person, this video is amazing for visual learners.
More videos like this!! Studying like this is amazing !!
This is interesting. I knew that the European power systems were different than ours here in the US, but this video shows that they are quite different. The RCD you showed would be called a GFI (ground fault interrupter) circuit breaker here. Typically GFIs are only used on circuits that are reasonably possible to get wet (kitchens, bathrooms, water pumps, etc). On the large commercial level, many building circuit breaker/disconnects will have ground-fault detection built into them, but this isn't common on the residential level.
An important note due to the design of European and Australian/NZ switchboards they will have RCD's (followed by a group of MCB's) which only provide the ground fault unlike GFCI's which also do over current. We call those RCBO's.
@@johnschroeder3072 That is true. The GFCI does also provide overcurrent protection as well. I find it interesting that European power design chooses to have ground fault protection for all circuits which is not typical here.
On the current regulations, the used of residual current devices (GFCIs) is virtually mandatory on all domestic circuits. Personally I prefer the type of device that combines and RCBO and RCD into a single unit (which is what I have), which is not shown on the video. That means if there is an earth/ground fault, it only trips that circuit. It costs a bit more, but is greatly preferable.
The only real exception in a domestic situation to requiring residual current/earth fault detection is for mains powered fire alarm circuits and similar.
Seen our new incredibly detailed MCB video? link: czcams.com/video/gqEu9t8HwW0/video.html
Awesome video with amazing content. I'm still trying to get passed "sheaf" vs "sheath" though! :)
I was just going to say the same 🤣
I am really glad this channel exist..You are the man..Keep up the good work.
Great video. I work in HVAC and these have helped me tremendously.
I love the way you explain the topic.
can you explain the building automation system??
BMS is on the list to come 😉
Thank you so much for your videos. I am a student in Electrical Installations in the UK. Your videos are really helpful to me.
You're welcome, enjoy.
You are SIMPLY the BEST. Simply.
excellent,,,,, thank you very much for the clear illustration.
Sir your explanation method is fantastic
Brilliant video.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed
The Engineering Mindset, perhaps you could do one on transformer tapping?
one of the best videos I've seen great job
Great video! A lot of hard work paid off.
Here in Malaysia, the grounding is done by planting the long copper rods screwed together into the ground instead of to the neutral side of the transformer.
Interesting, thank you
In Canada we have the Netual and "Safely ground" (Earth). The Netual or return is connected to the panel coming from the transformer. The safety Ground is a rod or plate buried in the ground at the consumers house.
comm744 Oh, I thought your country's system is like in the US where ground wire is connected to the neutral side of the transformer. Thanks for the info :)
The Engineering Mindset You're welcome
In Russia, TN-C-S is typically used in urban areas and TT is used in rural areas. I believe, the only difference is that in TN-C-S the local ground wire is connected both to a copper rod in your yard and the neutral wire while in TT the local ground wire is only connected to the copper rod. Ground fault currents are much larger in TN-C-S so it's considered safer (ground fault can be detected by an MCB rather than RCCB).
I live in Denmark 🇩🇰 which is part of EU 🇪🇺. Here we use 230V/400V so I always wonder why you write that EU is 220V/380V? Well, it used to be back in the days, but in the 90's this was changed.
Do the rest of the EU still use 220V/380V?
The EU is supposed to have a standardised voltage but not so much has actually changed other than tolerances/allowances. In the three phase video I log the voltage for 24 hours to show how much it changes. See it here: czcams.com/video/qthuFLNSrlg/video.html
The frequency is the only thing that is absolutely equal on the European electricity network. 50,00Hz
EU used to be 220/380 V and the UK (Great Britain and Northern Ireland) used to be 240/415 V until 1st January 1995 when all of the EU including the United Kingdom Voltages became harmonised at 230/400 V; though this was more in theory than in practice. Apparantly Northern Ireland was always 230/400 V both before and after 1995.
@@18in80 Wut In Poland in 99 we have 220/380 and now 230/400
Engineer here, your videos are absolutly fantastic!
Very insightful. I've been able to do a lot with the knowledge I've received from you.
In Finland every household typically gets 3 phases. Also usually mcd and rcd are combined into one unit. Very comprehensive video, good work!
Interesting, thanks. We'll do some more videos on three phase and two phase as well as industrial and high rise diagrams soon
@@EngineeringMindset I've read in Latin America is common to actually use _three-phase_ electricity in homes.
i live in Poland and it's very common to have a three phase in your house. Usually it's for water heating or other high voltage stuff.
@@EngineeringMindset
Same thing for Sweden, every house from the tiniest cabin to a high rise building gets three phases,, although some apartments may only have a single phase.
So hobbyists having a three phase drill press or something like that in their garage workshop is commonplace.
Great video!
Combined MCB/RCDs are available in the UK too. They are called RCBOs and that's what my house is fitted with. They are much preferable to RCDs in my view as they localise faults better and are less prone to nuisance trips. The only downside is that they cost more in the first place, but as the electrical installation is typically in place for several decades, over time, the extra cost is insignificant.
0:39 I love Australia's "Scary Movie" sockets.
Great Video, that helps me a lot to understand the electric.
Your animated presentation is excellent! Good job guys. Even a kid could understand it.
Perfect video and great explanation! Thanks for that! I would like to mention that the schematic diagram may not be 100% correct, it represents DC rather than AC. Furthermore, due to Kirchoff's 1st law, there is no current return from the neutral block. So it raises an interesting question. Since every circuit has to be closed in order to function and since the sum of the currents in the neutral block is 0 (at least theoretically under symmetrical load), how does the circuit really close physically? Can you answer this question?
With this node (Kirchhoff's law), the difference 0 at node (!) Occurs by the sum of the currents entering the node and the sum of the currents leaving the node, so the result at the node is "0". You can help by the agreed convention that the current entering to the node is negative and the output current from the node is positive, so the result in the node is 0. This is fine (the sum of the currents takes place at the node location, not elsewhere) and the circuit is thus safely closed.
In practice, Kirchhoff's law can be found in a circuit breaker, which houses a differential transformer that pulls the armature (opens the contacts from the source) if the sum of the incoming and outgoing currents is different, ie not equal to 0. It is an ingenious device that saves lives.
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It’s a single phase board. What comes in on the A, B or C phase goes out on the neutral (and earth stake as it’s MEN).
No 3 phase supplied domestic home has perfectly balanced single phase loads. There will always be some neutral current returning to the town/suburbs star connected transformer(s).
A "sheaf" is a bundle of long items tied together, a "sheath" is a protective outer covering.
In Ireland they pronounce 3 as tree. And in england its pronounced "free"
Best video on CZcams. All of my questions were answered.
very very helpful!
great explanation,
eee is fun watching this❤
thanks
Very interesting. An electrician told me that these days it is mandatory (with new installations) to also install an over/under voltage protection unit, and optionally also a surge protector for when lightning strikes in the vicinity. Maybe you could also make a video about the different tests that can be carried out, including for instance insulation test (which I understand from the electrician uses 500 volts) and maybe on how to test that the "earth" (in the sockets) is working correctly throughout the house.
@VonWicked Thanks. The under/over voltage unit turns off the power at the mains if the voltage varies upwards or downwards over a set range. It's intended to protect appliances from supply fluctuations (and eliminates complaints to the service provider regarding damaged appliances :-))
I dont know how i ended up here but really interesting
Wow....that is excellent 😍😍😍
Loved it.😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
understood completely ......you did good job in explaning
I'm an electrician and I watched this I don't know why good vid though in fairness.
A woman with a clipboard stopped me today and said, "Can I ask where you get your electricity from at the moment?"
I replied, "I'm pretty sure it comes into my house through some kind of wire."
This video makes understanding Alternating Current Single Phase easier than the old still shots of years ago!
Great video like your others.. only issue to point out here; Gas Lines never to use as Grounding Electrode. you should bond gas lines, specially new, vinyl jacket flex lines to your panel with shortest distance possible. but gas piping can not be your only earth grounding point. use water pipes, with by-pass on meter for proper grounding. maybe mentioned here before...
In germany we have L1 L2 L3 and PEN in the streets and in our houses L1 L2 L3 N PE seperated not just one phase
Lucky bastards! Three phase in the home!? In American you pretty much have to kill someone to get three phase run to your home.
How do electricians ensure a whole street does not have each properties water heater attached to the same phase ? (ie. how to ensure better load balancing at the generator?)
@@beachboardfan9544 - In the sixties (1960s), we had 3 phase power in our house in Arizona, in a normal residential neighborhood. We were the only house that I know of to have it. How? My dad worked for the local electric utility company as the principal engineer. He understood that the central air conditioner would be more efficient with a three phase motor, and that the motor would be more dependable. And in Arizona, the air conditioners run much of the time. I've always thought that three phase electricity would be best in any area where motors are used much. So, it seems to me that the Germans are doing it the smart way. At some point, the whole world needs to decide on just one standard way of doing electrical. Same voltages, same frequency, same phases, same outlets. Then manufacturers could just make one version, and it would work everywhere. How can we make this happen?
@@BobBeatski71 - I read above the answer to your question. In Germany, they use three phase water heaters, stoves and driers. So, balancing isn't an issue.
Solar Fluxman thats the dream! Wouldnt that be incredible!
Eu is 230
Releul din tablou arata dupamasa 227 si noaptea pana la 237 :))
+-10%
In Poland we had 220V before joining EU (i think that Russia ans post Soviet Union countries still stick to 220V as they are not in EU), then we switched to 230V. So EU is 230V, it may vary a little bit obviously. I never had a problem with any 220V devices running on 230V, seems like such a small difference is not a problem for anything.
@@macieksoft Most devices work in a range of something like 190V-250V.. Bunch of them also work from 90V to 250V.. What devices built in the last 3 decades cannot work on 230V instead of 220V or vice-versa?
Typical electronic appliances for EU/Russia/etc according to their user manuals work in the range of 220 V-240 V. Those with SMPS may work with a wider range such as 120 V-240 V.
Phase voltage of 219 V is admissible in a 220 V grid, but is a non-standard voltage for a 230 V (220 V - 240 V) device.
OMG, this is absolutely easy to understand how the MCB and RCD (or the electricity) work. This is so clear and simple. Perhaps you may talk more about the earth a little bit. It will be electric book 101-110, 10 chapters in 10 minutes. Wish I could watch this earlier. Thank you!
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The best tutorial about home electricity ever!