How To Get Smooth Surface With Print Angle And Antialiasing
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- In this video i would like to share some test that i done with several print angles and antialiasing settings.
you could use this as reference for your print orientation and AA setting in order to achieve print result with smooth surface.
Printed on Phrozen sonic mini 4k
Layer height 0.03mm
slice with chitubox
unfortunately per date of this video posted, lyche AA doesnt work after the latest update. So some lychee user that need AA would support the object on lychee and then slice on chitubox.
kindly support my channel / dennyswang
Link to print angle mode :
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vario...
Checkout Phrozen Website for Phrozen printer
phrozen3d.com/?aff=98
If you in Indonesia, you can buy Phrozen printer at tokopedia here :
tokopedia.link/I1hQGRPRpmb
If you are in Indonesia, you can buy NFEP at tokopedia here
www.tokopedia.com/yuishimokaw...
Chapters :
0:00 - Intro
0:28 - First print angle test print
1:20 - Artifact lines
1:44 - Antialiasing comparison
3:56 - Antialiasing 0 Image Blur 2
5:01 - AA on vs AA off
6:03 - Hetzer tank
12:13 - Wall of Awesome
#3dprinter #3dprinting #dennyswang
If you interested to check my other work
Here my social media
FB : / nobodycustom
FB : / 3dmikron
IG : / dennys_wang - Jak na to + styl
You set a new high standard for quality content in 3D printing videos! Thank you!
Thank You
You have by far they best and most detailed comparisons on the Internet! Thank you for your dedication!
Thank you
Your camera work and methodical testing is commendable. Thanks for creating such high quality and useful content. The tanks with AA were sharper to my eye than those without.
Great video, just started my own machine and this has helped so much with zeroing in the right specs, thanks so much!!
This was the greatest way to show what these settings do with real models, thank you for showing this!
Thank you
thank you for doing these tests and sharing them with us
Great comparison and a steady hand you got there. :)
iv been battling those lines for so long and iv been putting off printing my stormblade because of them. this video helps thank you.
Well done, thanks! Everything is visible on the recording. Very helpful :) .
saw your post in the facebook group. thanks for the video! this is pure gold!!!
Thank you
Thank you for the good video. This is the best 3D printer video I've ever seen.
Thank you for testing different situations and educate people with 3d printing.
Thank You!
These videos atre fantastic! Very informative. Cheers
Thank you so much for your tutorials, your voice is nice and clear and you go slowly so we can follow along. 10 stars for you.
I always thought my voice is too high pitch and could be annoying.
LOL 🤣
This is a great idea for a video and I am glad you made it. It was very hard to see the surface of printed pieces because the camera is focused on your fingers.
amazing work, this was very informative
Thanks Dennys for clarifying.
You are amazing. Thank you so much for your videos!
I absolutely love this video. I also agree with you that Image Blur the best balance is.
This is true Masterclass. I am professional scale modeller and using various 3d printers for about 3 years. Your channel is very useful.
thank you man, I appreciate the work you put in
Thank you
Your videos are so insanely helpful, I'm sick of experimenting haha. Thank you so much!
I do 3d print almost 24/7
I make living from 3d print.
All the experiment and tests actually was done several years ago when i was still learning.
So i figure to recreate all the tests and share it.
@@wangdennys bless you for doing this
Well done. Thank you for posting!
Welcome
new to printing, your information is excellent! thank you for sharing your experience.
another good video. thank you. i find the orientation/angles of the print (and decisions about which parts to print separated make such a big difference. ive barely tried the AA and Blur... (first time today). i guess its a matter of using those print layers specs to get the more dense number of layers orientated to suit. (or is it? now i think of it im not so sure the z height is better than the screen mask resolution) the obvious example being a lengthy cylinder such as the tank barrel. super fast print horizontally but far fewer layers...more support needed to keep those lines from sagging. vertical print... more layers, lots more time, plus the risk of waiting hours and hours only to end up with it glitching and getting those 'position slips' seen as horizontal artifacts. hope to see you working through support tactics and all the other little finessing that can be done... although admittedly.. after my first few hand supported prints... i try to minimise it all and save time with some software assistance... lots of factors to juggle
Great video, thank you !
you can definitely lose some small details with antialias / image blur, but if you have the lienes on the model that you would be attemptint o sand down / clean, you will lose the detail as well , so it's really a tradeoff that everyone has to decide for themselves
wow your videos contain so much valuable information - thank you! a pleasant surprise between all those unboxing videos and beginners guides
This was a fantastic explanation of how to optimize 3D prints. Thank you!
Welcome
@@wangdennys Already printing based on your info! Have you ever tried a compound print angle? Does that make any difference?
Compound?
@@wangdennys Setting the print on two angles instead of one. A compound angle.
@@dtj9923 ow rotate at x and y axis you mean.
Pretty the same result for the final angle.
Compound angle works best to reduce print sagging and pulling force.
Dennys thanks!
This man is a Legend!
I am still alive. LOL
I would have liked to see a flat print of the tank. It looks like AA and IB make a big difference in any case. The angles didn't seem to make the difference between a good print and a bad print. With his first test model several angles had great results, and many of them better then arctan angle. This was eye opening. For people saying you risk losing detail, when it came to the tank model, I saw no loss in detail between the two at a glance. I think I am going to be giving this a go with my prints. Thank you.
Thank you
New sub after this, dude, te la rifaste!
Excellent !
👍👍👍
Thank you
Excellent tests! Are you using Chitubox Pro and using different Antialiasing settings per model (on the same print) OR you are making a single print for every antialiasing setting? 🤔
I am using free chitubox
Yes set each single print
Just watched video and great info but was curious how well things work when printing at the calculated arctan angle? On my Noir it is something like 32.6°, I would be curious to see if the calculated arctan plus the other settings are better or worse. Thanks for vid great info!
Super!, apa yg dilakukan ini sangat membantu orang lain untuk mendapatkan hasil terbaik. Terimakasih banyak koh
Tengkyu om
super helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you
Great video would love if you did a video showing up how to actually set up these setting on the program
I will work on the program basic and advance videos.
Hi Dennys. Thank you for such a thorough analysis of AA! Great info here. Do you find when using these AA settings that it increases print time any if at all?
Print time no.
Slice file size yes.
Good video, but a sum up with images comparison and data sheet with values/results in the video would have been even better. Cheers
Thanks for the tips! How do I set Image Blur without enabling AA in Chitubox though? It seems I need to activate AA for me to enable Image Blur.
Thanks bro
Welcome
Amazing video, was the only one test i've done that really works, but now i change my printer to an elegoo saturn 3 ultra, and the test is done ok in different exposures, between 0,5 of diffenrence and i get some lines printeds.
Any idea for solve the problem? Thank you so much for the videos!
Another informative session. Will the test results change for different resins used?? Is it a smart practice to run through the tests you've provided over the weeks for every different resin used? Keep up the great work.
Different resin only need different exposure
But print angle and antialiasing setting can remain the same
Awesome. Great to know. Thanks again.
obrigado!
When you say anti aliasing in your video like when you print one and say this one’s anti aliasing 2 image blur do mean grey level 2 image blur 2?
Hello! Please help me... I know it is mentioned in passing on the video as to the values between angle test print, but at which angle does the test print start, what is the difference between angle test, and at what angle does it end? I do not hear well, so it was difficult for me to follow along with all of the video. Thanks in advance!
Hey Dannys, thanks for testing this. What printer did you use and what layer height? Thanks
Sonic mini 4k
0.03mm
Great video, Thanks for the in-depth testing, your time and effort!! Do you know if Lychee AA is working as of 3/2023? If so how does this translate?
unfortunately lychee aa doesnt work at all
I am getting deformation on the side of the model. for example a vw bus its in the same angle as I placed 45. What can I do?
thx so much... very helpful video
Thanks for sharing this! Are these antialiasing and blur settings in Lychee or a different program? In Lychee I don't see a choice of AA 0 and Blur 2
On chitubox
Lychee aa doesnt work after this year update
Where can I get the .stl file to print the gray disc?
Nice to meet you Dennys, i've chitubox pro and elegoo mars 3, but in my settings idk how to do it 0 antialising, once i click on antialising they show me "image gray" and "gray range". 0-0 maybe it's zero antialising? At least i can type image blur 2
Yes
Anti aliasing on or 0
Grey 0
Image blur 2
Awesome work again was there much of a difference in print time Between the angles???
Higher angle on single object
Means longer print time
@@wangdennys yeah was just wondering what the time difference was with you're prints. Both came out well for me I'd be happy with both prints but would probably go with the lower one for time saving.
Our bodies 3d print our nails brah!
🤣
How does IB 2 translate to Lychee settings?
A screen shot of your best settings would be useful. I can only set AA at level 2, and Blur at 2. You also do not mention Grey Level. Any tips?
I usually leave grey at 0.
Just AA on or 0 or 2, pretty much the same result just different number across several printer type.
And image blur 2.
süperrr
Thank you
Hello! I have a Mighty 8k and have been curious about these settings. In Chitubox, I can't set my anti-aliasing level to 0 if I want to do Pixel Blurring. I can set my pixel blurring to 2 as you suggest, but then my anti aliasing must be set to either 2, 4 or 8. I also have a drop down for Grey Level, which can go from 0-8. I'm using the free version. Any ideas/suggestions?
Using different printer, but this should work for your as well. Try AA 0, GL 0, IB 2 - it's a best setting for me for now
Very fine! What resin do you use?
Phrozen aqua grey 4k
Since slicing is always done horizontally, I wonder if the antialiasing is only applied with per-layer information, meaning only X/Y gradients get smoothed. It would be interesting to compare antialiasing with angles on X/Y plane compared to what you show here, which is X/Z or Y/Z plane. Ideally the slicer would pick the optimal grayscale value based on the average of partial deriviatives along both X, Y, and Z directions, but maybe they are not that sophisticated.
Nevermind, I thought about it a bit more and realized you only need antialiasing in X/Y plane. Antialiasing doesn't do any magical smoothing of the part, it only allows the creation of sub-pixel accuracy voxels. That can increase the printer's effective X/Y resolution, making it appear more like a smooth surface, but under a microscope it still looks rasterized. The equivalent on the Z axis would simply be decreasing layer height.
@@NyrixCorp Under the microscope it can look smoother. If the edges were hard then we wouldn't see a reduction in layer lines so they are being softened. The thing is if you do the right exposure you can actually get a layer to form that is too thin to reach the fep, that's why these XY AA methods actually can blur away lines on the Z axis but crudely. For proper Z axis AA you need to compare at least two layers so that you can have a bigger blur on lower angles, I've done this, it works. But for really good Z AA that can actually add detail not remove it you need to do it during slicing by rendering height/depth information with each layer and using that to make a gradient, I'm working on this, haven't tested it yet but I know it will be great.
will this work with the photon ultra dlp? i need advice for getting the photon ultra or the elegoo saturn 2 for dental applications
get saturn 2 or mighty 8k
The resolution is better for dental.
Will Image blur work on the Mono 4k or is that tied to the aa in the firmware?
I tested mono 4k several times on several slicers.
The AA is not optimal yet.
Hi Dannys, may I know which printer you are using for AA? I tested with anycubic mono and seems AA not working.
Anycubic aa doesnt work.
Only elegoo and phrozen printers so far that i can confirm has working aa.
@@wangdennys thanks for information. Can you share with me the angle you use to print headsculpt to get best results?
x16 only the best
can i keep the settings enabled always? or do I need to turn it off when printing less flat parts. why I think of printing all parts together, whether they are flat or not
I always leave it enabled
People always say to shake your resin before using, but when I shake it it creates bubbles and then I get holys in my print which are probably those bubbles, what do you think about shaking resin before printing?
let set settle after shaking, also it bubble dont do much problem because it will be squeezed out during printing when the bed presses against it.
What is the ideal layer height for best details? Thank you.
I usually do 0.025mm
What are the angles of the piece with the least inclined elements? In the video I only see those of the other piece. Thank you
Abouy 2.5° increments
Thanks, so the first element has a 2.5° tilt? (the second 5, the third 7.5 and so on)
I'm not sure how to translate this using Lychee slicer. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Unfortunately Antialiasing doesnt work on lychee yet.
I have started seeing people getting poor results when they start using cure times that are shorter than needed. Everyone wants to speed up their printers but it seems to be at the expense of smooth surfaces. Did you find anything like this?
Yes
I talk about it in my video about super easy resin calibration.
AA on lvl2, level grey 0 and image blur pixel 2 ?
Yes
but with very complex models its trial end error right? you cant predict everything
For the angle, yes!
It is to help you judge on the situation.
Usually i judge the situation from the widest or biggest flat surface of an object, and use this method as starting point for the trial and error
Rather than go blindly and test every 1⁰ increments.
But usually on printer with working AA, it helps alot, even with very complex model.
You can check all my test print on video for printer review.
How about for organic models 0 and 4? Or 0 and 2 also?
I always use 0 and 2
It is the most balance of antialiasing and keeping details
@@wangdennys thanks i used to use 0 and 4 will try 0 and 2 now!
Can I share the test 3D model? I want to test it, too.
Hetzer tank is from thingiverse
The print angle model link in video description
in chitubox i cant select anti aniliasing ( on ) it auto selects level 2 when i click it on
Yes prretty much the same
My Chitubox doesn't allow 0 for antiialiasing only 2,4,8?
Could be
Use the image blur option
chitubox versi berapa ya om?
1.9
So AA isn't working in lychee now? I'm using the 3.6
Sorry, I havent tested 3.6 yet
Tried yesterday on Jan 11th in Lychee 3.6 and Saturn. I see no difference between AA 2, 4 and 8, and only a very slight difference with blur 2. I assume that means, AA in Lychee doesn't work.
@@andreigalinski413 good info. Thanks
@@andreigalinski413 thanks! I'd been wondering why my prints all suddenly had lots of layer lines 😅
@@andreigalinski413 what printer do you use?
Whenyou say "AA 0" do you mean gray level 0?
Some printer only show aa on and off, some have the option to choose 2,3,4 etc
Grey is different
@@wangdennys I mean in chutubox, you can activate AA and then it has a grey level, so just activating AA is what you mean?
@@3lcost3 leave the grey 0
Then image blur 2
@@wangdennys thanks, that what I imagined
Is it me, or did it seem the angle didn't matter much?
That is my point!
You are one of the small group of people that notice it.
As long as your printer AA works.
Every angle can print smooth surface.
lol those lines are not from not having AA, clean your rail blocks and lead screw
that AA on monox barely does anything
LOL
I never said in the video those artifact lines cause by AA
So I dont know what you are talking about.
And i dont print using mono x.
I print them on phrozen printer.
And i already explain everything in the video.
It's called artifact lines.
No amount of cleaning rail and leadscrew can get rid of artifact lines.
Google "3d printer artifact lines" or "3d print arctan angle"
Or maybe print the model i provide and see for yourself the artifact lines when AA off, compare to AA on if you are using printer other than anycubic printer and your printer AA fully works, so you can see the difference.
Someone please do this with Lychee, I hate chitubox so much.
lychee AA doesnt work.
So you can only rely on arctan angle
@@wangdennys Thanks!