Laser Engraving in COLOR! Diode Laser & Co2!
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
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I've been working on Powdercoating with my xTool D1 for a couple of months now. I found the best way to defeat the fan blowing all of the powdercoat away is to put a piece of clear glass between the laser and the material (I use a glass from an old frame) raised up at least a millimeter from the material (or you'll be painting the glass!). This trick lets me work with the lighter colors (white, silver, yellow, gold) that I had no end of trouble with before putting in the glass. I've also been able to do 45 degree cross-hatch and offset fills with some success, but with the offset fills, too tight an interval creates issues.
Another thing I've done, when I etch and pocket fill tile, is to run one more quick pass over everything with a clear gloss powdercoat overtop of the powdercoating I've already done. Then I bake the tile afterwards for 10 minutes at 400 (I have a toaster oven for this purpose) and the resulting product has an amazing glossy shine to it.
After seeing your layered compass, I can see I've still got to up my game! Nicely done, Rich!
Thanks for those tips Brian! Still a work in progress! 👍
Hi Brian, so just to make sure I understand correctly - you first etch the tile, then apply your powder, then put over the glass raised 1mm and then run the laser again ?
@@gertkruger371 that's what I got from it bro 👍🏼
Tried this evening with some red powder coat from Prismatic Powders. I used the glass trick, but wasn't able to achieve good results. Everything from burned powder coat in engraved sections to unengraved sections where the powder coat adhered, but the coverage was poor after brushing it off. Any hints here, Brian ? Also, speeds and feeds for diode laser (20w in my case, but I think just getting in the ballpark would be good). I was everywhere from 1200mm/s @ 10% which would usually end up in burning to 6000mm/s at 10% which wasn't really doing much. I didn't go up into the higher % power ranges because I was getting burning at 10%. Also, when filling, how about lines per inch ?
@@markwithak2024 Are those speeds correct?? Was per second or per minute??
Rich, you are an absolute blessing. I just found your multiple cut and engrave libraries. Please keep it up. I would be completely lost without your help.
Wow, thank you! I love my hobby, so there's plenty more to come!
Hey mate, little tip for brighter colours.
After the first burn grab a vacuum with a stiff brush, vacuum out the charcoal which leaves the indentation the same colour as the wood (taking away the black). You can use a damp cloth also or run under water and use a paint brush.
Lay the powder and burn.
Because the black is now missing the colours will pop significantly 👍🏻😉
Great video 🥰
Thanks! If you look closely, you'll see the towel I used to clean it after the burn. I always clean my burns with misted water.
I just got my laser a week ago and have learned more from you than anyone else. I appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Thank you Michael!
YOU JUST HAD MY BRAIN ON 🤯 with being able to engrave ANYTHING IN COLOR. This is gonna make my craftsmanship business take off. This video is great
Awesome! That's why I do this!
I’m very excited to see results of further tests with mica powders and a diode laser! 🙏🙏🙏 I use mica in my epoxy projects and absolutely love the look. Thanks for, as always, a really great video!
I don't really use mica powder Darrell. Powder coat comes out much better.
Another great video. That compass rose was truly impressive. Thanks again for all your time you are very generous.
Thanks again John!
Thank you for teaching, sharing, encouraging. I’m still waiting for my laser to come in and am excited to start using your tips.
Awesome Jean! Bet you can't wait to get started!
Another great video Rich. Beautiful compass project. I’m learning so much. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching John! Much appreciated!
Thank you for all your videos. I haven't had my laser (xtool d1) for long but your videos have made learning how to do so much with it easy and rewarding.
Great to hear it Jake!
The compass is so very nice. I like the details on it and how you explained the process.
Glad you liked it John! Thanks!
Another great video again , looking forward to giving this process ago , thanks again Rich
Go for it Stuart!
I’m glad you are still experimenting with this. I found that if the powder coat paint isn’t stored in a cool environment and gets too warm, it wont stick as well when applying it. It gets a little gummy and doesn’t stay in the engraved area as well. Because of that I now store my powder coat paints in the refrigerator. I have used this powder coat method on bamboo and wood and have been successful with blue, red and yellow. I wish I could attach a photo to show how much color I was able to get. I have a diode laser but my power when burning with the powder coat paint was much lower. I found when using a higher power I was burning the paint instead of melting the paint.
Oh... thank you Sharon! Maybe if I put the light colors out in the humidity it'll solve my problem! Brilliant! 👍
Interesting that you say the powder clumps at warmer temperatures. I powdercoat large objects in the traditional way using an oven. I live in Queensland Australia and it gets well above 100 deg F in the workshop a lot of the time, never had any issues with powder clumping though. Powdercoat does have a shelf life of around 3 months but in practice, it's much longer.
Great, interesting video Rich ,brilliant results. The compass turned out fantastic.
You should see it now Rob! Sanded, triple coated and waiting to be glued up! I'll post a picture soon.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy look forward to seeing it, really impressive 👍🏻
Thank you so much for your videos! I just added a laser machine to my craft making. I’ve wanted to try this for a long time. I have learned a lot from your videos! Glad to learn from a fellow NOLA neighbor. Just Ed move from New Orleans to Gretna. Looking forward to learning more from you!!!
Welcome to the obsession Donna! I was just in Gretna this past weekend for the parade!
Awesome tutorial Rich. Thanks.
Thank you Tom!
Thank you for taking the time to teach us this process, It can assist in making some amazing projects, very professional finish,
Thank you very much!
That’s sounds really cool, they figured out a paint inlay! Awesome!
I think so too!
Great video! The layered compass looks very cool. I've seen people do layered burns before, but I wasn't intrigued until I saw the detail in your compass. New subscriber.
Awesome! Thank you!
I'll be working on this one this weekend. No Powdercoat, but many different stains to apply. Thanks Rich !!!
Have fun with it James!
Great job explaining the color engraving. I have a diode laser so I'll get something going in that direction.
Join me on the Saturday night 9pm livestream on the Laser Makers Realm channel. We'll be going over more on this topic! www.youtube.com/@lasermakersrealm
Informative video Rich, i really dig the process. No c02 laser yet, so I'm looking forward to the diode laser video and info.
Well you're good with all the dark colors Randy, it's just the light ones I have to figure out.
Thank you Rich great video. I'll try to keep up with all your great ideas.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I saw another CZcamsr do this a few months back and thought it was cool!! I haven't tried it yet but I have loads of PC i can play with.
Neat stuff Rich!
People have been trying this for about 2 years now. It's not new, I'm just trying to perfect it Kenny.
You are amazing! I figured out how to work my laser engraver and my lightburn software by watching your videos! Thank you so very much!!! And your work is amazing 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have an ortur laser master 3. With lightburn. I have a vinyl business where I make designs, logos, tshirts, hats, stickers, signs, etc. My software for those is very similar to lightburn. But of course different settings for cutting and embroidery, not for power. I've been doing that for going on 7 years now. I just wanted to add a little extra to what I already do. And the engraving and cutting takes it to whole new level. I have watched hours of your videos. And to set up lighturn with my ortur, you have helped me more than any vlog or website! You definitely don't get enough credit for what you do! You are an amazing person, very creative and innovative!! From the Bottom of my heart, thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I can't wait to see what all I can create. Oh I just engraved a ring holder for my goddaughter and her new husband. It was on a piece of wood that looked like a chopped log. We engraved their name "Paris" with an 🗼 as A...P🗼RIS...like that. Their names, and 2 rings 💍 intertwined. And 2 slots that holds their rings. It was pretty amazing and definitely a show stopper! I am putting some hangars on the back so they can hang it up. Hopefully anyone who reads this, this will give them inspiration!! My slogan for my business (Myers By Design) is "Inspire, design and create"
Have a blessed day!!!🙏🏻
Love the P🗼ris idea! Very ingenious! My motto is, inspire, create, learn, teach. It's at the top of every page on my forum.
Great video Rich, thanks for all the time & material you put into this that allows us to get results faster. The projects look great. I'm going to give this a go, I have mica colors that I used to tint epoxy. Bought those magnets last month, the only trick is be careful with them so you don't lose a finger! :)
You can say that again! And don't get 2 stuck together either! 🤪
does mica work the same way ?
very nicely done, we've been fusing with diodes and Co2 lasers with powder coat for a while now with Acrylic here in the UK and Spain where I am and it works really well, you just need to practice to get the settings dialled in, after that a piece of cake, just watch your lungs with that dust..... Its easy with the c02 just a pain with a diode fan , I use a small piece of plastic and vent the air in a different way when I do powder colouring.
Magnets area great idea for those of us who are lucky to have steel bed......although Lightburn's camera function can get you back to perfect alignment just as well. great video and very useful of you to share. thank you.
My friend in the UK has no problem getting powder coat by the bucket load in the UK like 10 gbp for 10 kilos of about 15 colours, here in Spain bugger all....I have to import it.
Ventilation is always very important!
That compass rose looks great!
You should see it now Dottie, with the triple coat finish!
Thank you, awesome video as usual. Invaluable information.
Glad you enjoyed it Larkin!
Perfect for a Sunday morning with a cup of coffee
Great to hear Cesar!
Very cool, thank you Rich. So much to learn
Glad you enjoyed it Andrew!
That's pretty cool. I like the slight bluish tinge on the unfinished wood. My first guess would have been to finish it with something like shellac, then burn through it and use it like a resist mask when painting it.
Worth a try!
Hi RIch...I thought I would share unused powder reclamation method. (nice title ay?) I use a cookie cooling bakers rack to hold my items when cutting. When I use powder coating powder, I put my item for engraving on that rack. I place some thing under the item to collect unused powder ( I use a 8x10 inch piece of yellow manila filing folder). When I am done applying the powder, I just scrape it off and let it fall through the cookie rack onto my collection paper underneath and just collect it when I am done. I will just leave it there until I am completely done and when I can just remove the cookie rack. If there is any cutting involved, I just slide the collection paper out from under the rack and recycle the the powder right then. This way, I never have to remove the item from the laser until I am completely done... Cheers and happy lasering
Awesome idea Pierre! Thanks for sharing! 👍
Good stuff man! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much!
Hi Rich, I'm a photographer who is in love with lasers, I'm a total newbie to all this, in fact thanks to your videos is why I've got my Genmitsu LC40 and I love it.
Well regarding about binders to hold the powder paints on place to avoid staining the wood and avoiding any harmful fumes, you can try a very simple material that I use in analog photography when I need to create something to hold pigments for my alternative photographic techniques, that is egg white.
You can have some egg whites on a little bowl and with a foam brush just brush the surface with a thin layer and let it dry, then apply another layer on top with a little bit more of a generous amount of egg but not brushing too hard to lift the previous layer and immediately sprinkle the powder over the egg while still wet, let it dry and then let the machine blow the excess.
My explanation for the first thin layer is to seal the wood or the surface to create a primer for the second layer to hold to, and then the second layer creates a kind of emulsion type of layer just like the photographic silver emulsions are on top of film.
For the second layer you'll have to play with the amount of egg white and pigments you desire, please whisk the eggs first to break the surface tension and help it to spread more easily, then you can wipe off the layer with a wet cloth or rubbing alcohol, it may work, give it a try and please let me know if it works, I really want to know.
Note: You may use the whole egg, just whisk it very well and then strain it to get rid of any clumps and foam, you want a very homogeneous liquid, also you can mix the colors in and make a sticky mix and apply it to avoid the clumps it may form when sprinkling the powder, please note the very first layer "the sealant layer" is after the first engraving, or you can brush it first for a deep black also like the mica for intense dark results, I guess eggs will burn black without harmful fumes.
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge with all of us.
Nuurs
Interesting... I found just covering it with clear picture frame glass did the trick!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy That is a very clever approach! Awesome!!!
I love the Compass Rose nice work
Thanks 👍
Thank you for sharing!! Excellent information..
Thanks for watching Mike!
Awesome idea with the magnets
Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for sharing this!
You are so welcome Jody!
Late for the party, but I would use transfer tape for light colors, burn it normally with the tape on then spray a light coat of poly from a can, don't take the tape off and burn fill as you would, transfer tape come off at the very end. Worked for me on a 10W laser, had to try something after watching you :), thank you so much for your time making this video.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Hey Rich, yet another option here would be to use a dedicated laser module. Since you dont need huge power, perhaps consider one of the 15W ortur lasers - with the adjustable lens. Now install a long focus G8 lens on the laser. This will allow you to raise the laser up and maybe that would make enough difference on air flow. But I see also your idea to reverse the fan, that could likely work well also, since you are using a very low power setting the laser wont get as hot either.
Yeah Peter, that would work, but I'm trying to make this work with no mods so everyone can do it.
Another great video. Thanks
Thanks again Rebecca!
Hi Rich, great Video, really great 👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it Sam!
Awesome video as usual, Rich. I too have been playing around with powder coating powder. I have an xTool D1 and designed and printed a cover with side vents that installs over the business end of the laser that redirects the cooling fan air out to the sides. It also has the 20 mm opening for the air assist ( which of course will be turned off while using the powder) and a clear window for the cross hairs to still be utilized.
Can you get the white to melt without blowing off Paul?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Haven't tried white yet. I've done Blue, Red and Orange. I don't see why my cover wouldn't work for the white
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I've also got the xTool. I've been able to burn the white no problem (with glass). Keep the laser fast and weak for the lighter colors, though, or you'll get gray or black instead of white.
@@Tkrain Glass didn't work for me.
The 16 looks blue bro. That's awsome work.
Thanks 👍
Very ingenious idea.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video! I haven't used my engraver for awhile and was reviewing techniques and found this one. So many great makers sharing. A quick idea on the diode laser fan problem that might help. Can the fan be flipped to pull air up? It won't be as effective but should still cool the diode and help with the powder.
No Bill, that would ruin the lens pretty quickly.
Super Video. I spray paint my wood materials, then burn the text or image. The spray paint seals the wood around the cut. Then by rubbing Acrylic paints into the cut groove, rubbing off the excess that does not strain or mark the sealed wood around. Maybe a similar process would work for the wet down white powder. After your color run, seal the wood around, then cut the white with the white. Anyways, thanks for doing all the testing.
I've used your technique before, works great. I switched to using laser transfer tape since and that works even better.
This is Hector. You try to mix silver mica whit other colors so that way the reflective effect off the silver help to preserve the color you want like playing whit the deflexion off power.
I haven't even gotten to mixing colors yet Hector!
Another great video! Love the look of the blue print! I am new to this hobby and find your videos extremely informative. I recently purchased an Atezr P20 and am having a fun time learning how to use it. With your suggestions I’m able to etch photos that actually look like photos. I am interested in the compass rose and want to know if the file is available for purchase.
Awesome Greg! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Awesome as always!
Thank you!
Rich these are awesome videos thank you. A quick question do you have a link for that compass file? Looks great!
No I don't, sorry, that's my design. There are others out there though for sale Rick.
I like your Videos soooo much and i learn a lot of it,thanks for that....😊😊😊
Thank you so much Wolfgang! I really appreciate it! 👍
I really like how you include a realm of projects and possibilities. You never restrict our creativity, you're always fluid in your demos. Really, l appreciate your love and knowledge to this craft.
Thank you so much! You're making me blush! 😊
The best option is to get a duct to redirect the lasers heatsink fan output off to the side instead of toward the job after it passes through the actual heatsink of course. Usually it helps blow some smoke from burning material away so the laser isn’t obstructed, but that’s not a huge issue when melting and bonding things.
Instead of turning the power down you could also have a second job from the same project that only traces the center of the graphic, then unfocus the laser some to spread out the power. It works well for lettering, speeds up the process and lets you gradually step power up easier to find the melting point without scorching. Harder to calculate exactly what power is hitting the surface but since it’s only a center line you could run back to back tests rather quickly.
Thanks for the comments!
Hi, Rich another great video I would like to know have you ever tried engraving on canvas.
Yes Malcom, lots of times! I'll have to try the powder on canvas, great idea!
One possible sollution für diode lasers would be some kind of shield under the laser, that would guide the airflow away from the engraving to the sides. A piece of acrylic or plywood with cutouts for the lens and screws, fit under the laser with enough space for airflow could be worth a try.
I wound up using thin pane glass.
Very interesting Rich but as for me Im still in the forest yet Product itself looks amazing Appreciate your class. Thank you
My pleasure Bob!
Fantastic! For the diode light colors, how about doing a deep burn, like a second pass at 90 degrees, on the areas that you want the light colors? Then you would have more powder in those area. Maybe you would have more powder to melt. Just an idea.
The light colors are like baby powder. It'll still blow out Wayne.
This is truly formidable and it opens a whole new range of products that can be created. Just an idea. What if you invert the diode laser ventilator so it draws air upwards through the heatsink instead of blowing downward. It should cool the laser module by the same degree theoretically because the speed would be the same. Great video.
Yes, that's been suggested. I'm going to try it Raymond!
That is amazing 🤩
Thanks👍
Love all your work, You mentioned you engrave Marble. How do you treat the Marble to withstand getting wet and then freezing/Cracking?
I seal it.
Hey Rich ... Wow, this is pretty awesome. I'll have to give this a go on my laser. Not sure this was brought up but is this process limited to wood or can this be applied to other materials? Keep up the great work. Cheers!
You can do it on anything you can engrave Christopher!
Just saw your video on coloring laser.
Place tape where powder coat is not needed. Add paint. lift tape off giving you clean area. Now tape hold area with no over lapping. Waiting for my pic to come in from Amazon will try it soon
Using transfer tape doesn't change the process.
Great video as always, with the diode could you put a sheet of glass on top of the powder to stop it from blowing away, as the laser would go through the glass. Not sure if this is feasible or not, but could be worth a go.
Tried it, it discolors the white from the smoke Terry.
Hey Rich There is another method for your reference
Embossing powder (Tsukineko Emboss) can be used
Just need a glue pen to paint the engraved seams
Let the relief powder not be blown away by the wind
Reheat the air gun to heat the relief powder
This will make the whole layout more clean and beautiful
I'll look into that, thanks! 👍
Hey Rich I had a thought on your diode laser testing. I know that on my laser (S9) there is a distance between the laser head and the work that it normally covered by the plastic safety ring, I know that there are a number of different versions of a 3D print file for eliminating that shield and adding air assist to the setup. My thought was that maybe instead of an air assist adapter you could fashion an air deflector. Basically the air is blown down past the head and exits at the bottom once it's done it's job of cooling. Maybe instead of allowing the air to continue straight down it could be deflected outwards or even upwards at an angle with a 3D printed adapter that still had a hole of the beam to pass through but redirected the majority of the cooling air away from the project when doing powder. Might be something worth trying.
Yeah, I have thought of that, as well as adding a clear piece of glass inside and drilling holes on sides of the module, but I'm trying to find a way to do this so the average user can do it.
First: Like! Second: Take a look 👀 ...After: The Legend is alive!
🤪🤪
Thanx Rich awesome
Thank you so much Rodney! I really appreciate it! 👍
Hey Rich. I think I have the solution to your powder paint blowing away using the diode laser. I've got my own channel set up, but haven't had the time lately to create any videos yet as I work full time. So I wanted to share with with you and your followers if they have a fan-cooled diode laser engraver so that NONE of your powder paint blows away.
1st step is to measure the bottom portion of your laser. In my case it's square, but then you also have to create a hole for the diode. Measure the diameter of the laser part that protrudes from the bottom of the laser.
2nd step is to create a cutout of the in Laserburn or whatever software you use to create your projects. In my case it was just a square with a hole in the middle.
Next, you just need a very thin cardboard. I used part of a cereal box, but any thin cardboard will do.
Cut your shape out using your laser.
Once you have your shape cut, use some masking or painter's tape and tape it to the underside of your laser. Be sure not to have any tape across the area where your laser shoots down!
Now, you'll have cooling fins along the side of your laser and you don't want them to be blocked, so just take an exacta knife and cut silts in the tape so that the you have gaps for the air to still circulate through the cooling block. And that's it!
I don't take it off because my cooling fan still cools the laser just fine, it just doesn't push the air down the to piece that I'm engraving. Instead, it just pushes the air down and out the sides. I have a separate air pump/tube/nozzle system for 'air assist', BUT you don't want ANY air assist when trying to use powder paint!
Hope this helps!
Awesome tips! Thanks!
Next try is flipping the fan over on the top of laser. That should work! Patrons can download the Compass Lightburn file on Patreon's website.
Hi Rich, I would also ask if you could bring the laser up out of focus to hit more dry paint at once but you might need to have it trace and adjust for the out of focus. Great content as always, looking for your next video. Thanks.
@The Louisiana Hobby Guy
*April, 2022 Laser Giveaway!* ???
Yet, the *Giveaway Rules & Terms* states as follows:
PROMOTION DESCRIPTION: This Laser Giveaway ('Raffle') for the Comgrow Z1 Laser Engraver begins on 02-01-2022 and ends on 02-28-2022 (the 'Promotion Period').
:
All 11401 Total Entries must be invalidated due them each agreeing to Rules & Terms which states, in error, a past date of FEB 2022 for the end of the promotion period.
I declare myself the winner of the APRIL Comgrow, 20W Diode Laser, for presenting you with your blunder.
:
@@criticallook1352 Did you read the last paragraph?? 🤪 Not sure how you can declare new rules, but whatever!
@@criticallook1352 Really? I don't see it.
Have you tried any gold or silver with this method. I also would recommend applying the sand and seal first to the wood panel. Love the color on your compass also the detail
No, I don't have those colors, thanks.
I can get a deflector to divert the diode fan for my laser (Xtool 10w) . That should stoop the powder from blowing away.
I'm trying to find a way for the average user to do this. There are all kinds of mods that can be done. Glad it got you thinking Charles!
Hey buddy just a suggestion shellac is really good at sealing Great vid BTW can't wait to give it a shot. I've just got the Comgrow Z1 and so much to learn. I'm gonna get there😊
I use Zinsser Shellac all the time!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy good stuff 👍
The similarities to Screen Printing are uncanny!!! I will pursue this - HARD! Thank You!! 🧐🧐🧐
Go for it!
This is something I'd like to try...er?...When I've got some expertise in lasering in general...Still have to assemble my machine.... Oh... And your T shirt is really cool.
You can do it! And thanks!
I think using a flour sifter or maybe a really fine mesh to sprinkle the powder on would get a nice even coat and even out the color
A sifter and baby powder is the way to go Mike.
I've been testing powder coat paint on a diode laser for a little while now. I 3D printed an air deflector that I attached to the base of the laser module with a 1mm hole aligned with the beam. The Deflector is about 1/2 the focal distance to the work piece, my laser is a 45mm focal point. This allows laser module cooling and re-directs the cooling up away from the work.
Yes, that's the solution for many lasers, however, more and more are going to a heatsink that goes all the way to the bottom.
Just saw this right after I posted the same idea. Read first, comment second. LOL
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Personally I'm not a fan of the newer design of limited clearance diode lasers. I think they are trying to protect users but far too often when cutting the cutout rotates and impacts the low clearance laser head. I rather more clearance like 25-50mm to avoid this and as a bonus it works with air deflection :)
Rich, have you tried spraying with hair spray to control the powder? Just a thought. thanks for another great video.
No Charles, but I was able to get a piece of 2mm glass from a cheap photo frame to cover it with and that worked.
Just used ChatAI to clarify some of the basics of powder coating and the use with diode lasers.
Seems that the laser for melting the powder coat and infilling eg letters on a surfac such as timber or plastics needs to have an adjustable airflow system and direction of the flow.
"One way to minimize the impact of the air flow is to adjust the air pressure and direction. For example, you can reduce the air pressure to a level that is still sufficient to remove smoke and debris, but not so high that it blows the powder coating out of the area. You can also direct the air flow away from the heated area using a nozzle or other air flow control device.
Another approach is to use a laser system with a different type of air assist or cooling system that is better suited for powder coating applications. For example, some laser systems use a compressed air flow that is directed through a small nozzle onto the material being heated, which can provide cooling and smoke removal without blowing away the powder coating.
In any case, it's important to choose the right laser system and air assist setup for your specific powder coating application and to carefully test and adjust the parameters to achieve the desired results."
Thanks for the tips! I only had issues with the light colors and resolved it by covering it with a thin sheet of glass.
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Welcome aboard!
I have seen this process with other and thought yes I want to try that, I did buy some powder coat paint. "chameleon colour" but I am guessing thats a little way off before I try it, got to get laser up an running agin 1st. Anyway I love the compass, its fantastic, I hop to make something like that one day, I still havent mastered the cutting process. but I will keep trying
Never give up! You'll get it Ian!
Followed his lead and got a great first burn. Amazed at how little power was needed. Started way to high.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Air blowing away powder ideas:
Change the cooling on the laser to remote water cooled?
Modify the laser housing so the cooling air is shunted horizontally before it gets to the lens area. (I'm thinking some 3d printed parts to guide the air away... Maybe even a part that goes around the lens that moves the air out to the side.)
A lens with a higher focal point?
All good ideas, and I can just flip over the cooling fan; that works. But I am still looking for a method that takes no modifications at all for the end user.
3d print a diverter for the nozzle area to divert the air blowing down away from the powder
Yup, lots of easy solutions, but I'm trying to do this so anyone can do this with no mods.
I use a plastic deflector on the bottom of the spindle on my CNC router to stop the air blowing on the work piece. Could something like that work on the diode laser? I really want to try power coat on some engraving soon. Thanks for the video!
It depends on the laser module. Lots of the newer ones, the heatsink goes all the way down to the material.
Hey Rich, do you have a video on engraving the headstone?
No, I did publish one last year and got too many negative comments, so I took it down. I will be doing another one with a different theme soon though, with both slate and granite.
Personally I would use print and cut in light burn to make sure it lined up. Those magnets shift I have the same ones.
Mine don't shift Bryan and using print and cut for a second pass isn't even a consideration for me.
If you applied a clear finish to the wood before the first burn, that will help prevent the powder getting into the grain of the wood where there is no engraving.
I didn't have that problem.
a great video rich what was the spray you used to wipe over mate
Just some green cleaner.
Great video, thanks. Did Mica work the same as Powder coat? I have been dong very large stones recently, like 24x36 inch Flagstones. Smaller 12x24 ceramic tile address plaques, small pet memorial stones. I am doing these on a 100 watt CO2 and usually around 70mm/sec at 60 power. I do it that slow so I get a good indent in the stone. I want to try this next. I was adverse to painting infill in the stones because I did not want the infill to fail later. Also, what would you think about masking, engraving, filling the engrave with the powder and brushing away the excess, then covering the engrave with something and using a heat gun to melt the powder in? Also, if the first engrave step really needed? Could we just cojer the piece with powder and go strait to the slow low power engrave? (This is how I do the norton tile method now)
Mica worked well, but slightly off on the color, still good though. I've tried it with transfer tape and no first run; that was a fail. No idea about the heat gun, but the laser puddles the lines, so it looks textured, like acrylic.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy OK, I did an engrave of my logo in tile, then filled it with white mica, and ran 250 10% on my 100 watt. when I cleaned it it all washed out. I then filled it with blue mica and ran 250 15% and 200 25%. I don't think my mica melts. I well, more resting needed
A thought just occurred to me that you might try. Put your powder down and then cover with onion skin paper before your second burn. That should address the air assist issue but I don’t know the effects it would have on the burn.
I've tried it even with transfer tape over it and as soon as the laser burned through the tape, the light colors blew out Larry.
Really great project. I am going to try this out. Thank you. Question: Did you try to seal the board first before engraving?
Not on the test pieces, and wouldn't you know, I forgot to do it on the compass as well. I never forget to put the sanding sealer on... except when I'm making something thousands of people will see! 🤪
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy so should the sanding & sealer be applied after the color is lasered?
I have managed to get white to work for me. It was very time consuming but worth it. I ran my OLM3 10w at its highest speed of 20000mm/min and 20% power and without the shield on to prevent the fan from putting too much air on. I repeated putting the white thermoplastic (powder coating) between each run and just ran it and ran it until i was satisfied
I wound up covering it with a thin sheet of glass.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I will give that a try! Thank you for the tip, I doubt I'd have considered it otherwise.
Hey Rich, when you mention the fan/cooling of the diode laser are you refering to the air assist for the Xtool D1 or is the air assist an optional component?
I was referring to the onboard laser module fan, not a separate air assist Bryon.
I wonder if the new infrared xtool module could work with a mica or powder coat for color.
I don't know, give it a try Teresa!
Interesting results with light colored powder paint on diode laser. I had similar cutting difficulty with my diode laser when I tried cutting white on white cotton quilting fabric. The white pattern on the fabric is painted.onto the surface somehow by the manufacturer, but something in the properties of the paint caused the laser to skip over the fabric surface of the cutting edges. I got clean cut edges when cutting black fabric, but not with white. I think the light reflective properties of the white paint interfere with a diode laser similar to trying to cut clear acrylic.
Yep, diode lasers have a problem with white because of the 455nm frequency.
Thanks!
You bet! Thanks for the support!
another great video rich some good projects there i will give it ago thanks again but cannot seem to find the powder coating paint in the uk you used.... and your link says it is unavailable any ideas thanks
Try the mica, or search for powder paint.
Very nice great video
Thank you very much Tony!