What a great vid. Im here looking for info on polishing rock slabs with cerium oxide. The final mirror polish is eluding me so hopefully this will help get me there
Cerium may not work well on rocks. You should speak with Covington Engineering to see what they recommend for a final polish on the type of rock you are trying to polish.
I'm thinking of getting into faceting some of my glasswork. What would you think of using the flame to do a flame polish instead of flat lapping to polish glass with several facets? I'm using borosilicate, if that makes a difference. Thank you for the very informative video.
You can certainly flame polish from the 600-grit resin diamond pad without any issue at all. You'll lose some definition in the facets from the flame polishing so you'll have to see if it fits with the aesthetic you're going for in your glass.
Does this same concept apply to glass windows and at what RPM is best for a rotary polisher? I was told 2-3k but based on the heat factor of 75-100 degrees that speed would generate too much heat...like 120-140 degrees
same concept applies, but you’ll want your cerium a little thicker so it doesn’t flow off the glass surface as quickly. I would slow down the rotary polisher, yes.
Yes, a pumice step will substantially reduce polish time. This is especially true when polishing on a lathe where you have less surface contact on the glass.
@@heukelummer True, just more difficult to use pumice. It will work okay with a synthetic felt pad, but it really requires either a cork pad or a Polpur MJ wheel on a flat bed to work well for pumice.
@@hisglassworksinc i use a 60cm polyurethane flatwheel and have a little conical shape,so i dont have to apply to much pressure and use a plastic water bottle with a tiny hole to apply a constant water drip.
What a great vid. Im here looking for info on polishing rock slabs with cerium oxide. The final mirror polish is eluding me so hopefully this will help get me there
Cerium may not work well on rocks. You should speak with Covington Engineering to see what they recommend for a final polish on the type of rock you are trying to polish.
I'm thinking of getting into faceting some of my glasswork. What would you think of using the flame to do a flame polish instead of flat lapping to polish glass with several facets? I'm using borosilicate, if that makes a difference. Thank you for the very informative video.
You can certainly flame polish from the 600-grit resin diamond pad without any issue at all. You'll lose some definition in the facets from the flame polishing so you'll have to see if it fits with the aesthetic you're going for in your glass.
Does this same concept apply to glass windows and at what RPM is best for a rotary polisher? I was told 2-3k but based on the heat factor of 75-100 degrees that speed would generate too much heat...like 120-140 degrees
same concept applies, but you’ll want your cerium a little thicker so it doesn’t flow off the glass surface as quickly. I would slow down the rotary polisher, yes.
when you do your pre polish with pumice, it takes a lot less time on the cerium polish
Yes, a pumice step will substantially reduce polish time. This is especially true when polishing on a lathe where you have less surface contact on the glass.
@@hisglassworksinc also on a flatbed...
@@heukelummer True, just more difficult to use pumice. It will work okay with a synthetic felt pad, but it really requires either a cork pad or a Polpur MJ wheel on a flat bed to work well for pumice.
@@hisglassworksinc i use a 60cm polyurethane flatwheel and have a little conical shape,so i dont have to apply to much pressure and use a plastic water bottle with a tiny hole to apply a constant water drip.
Just updated with a new video on Pumice.
75-100 °F or °C?
Farenheit, definitely. That hot in Celcius would break the glass.