I followed this method to insulate my basement walls & also insulated rim joists. It feels so comfortable now, the temperature is the same as the main level in my house, plus I cut my winter heating bill in half...I used to have a 5000W electric heater that would be on almost 50% of the time to maintain a mere 60 degrees in the winter. Now the heat pump alone is providing enough heat for the whole house for a fraction of the cost...
@@gtarules1 The heat pump is your normal setup, heat pump outside, air handler is in the basement. Ducts run through the floor between basement and main floor, and I have vents for both the main floor and the basement coming off the single air handler. Basement was un-insulated so yes, i would need 2500W on average in cold winter days to maintain the basement warm. I have a walk-out basement, so 3 walls are not under-ground, and 1 wall is. There was so much heat loss through the 3 walls that are not below grade. Just 8 inches of concrete block offer an R value of around 1.5. Now the R value of my walls is around 20 (foam board + batt insulation). Using a heat pump with 300% efficiency and insulated walls, the 2.5 ton heat pump is enough to keep the 2000 sq.ft. of space heated, i no longer need to use the 5000W shop heater. On cold winter months, my electric bill used to be around 3000 kWh. Now it rarely exceeds 1500 kWh in the winter. In my area where the kWh averages 16 cents in the winter, that equates to $240 in savings.
I’ve learned so much from you and your videos. Probably my favorite channel to learn from. You’ve helped me build a couple of decks, and a shed for my new home. You do a great job of explaining everything so anyone can understand it. Keep doing what you do!
i was told to use a sill seal under the plate , just to get that wood off the concrete and make a better water or moisture barrier. i am using 2 in recycled foam board ( less than half the cost of new) and 2x3 studs with R 15 . its probably over kill. but should be nice and warm in the cold winter in northern NY. cheers.
I've watched two of your videos and like how you teach/educate. You appear very knowledgeable on these topics and professional. What's even better is that you're not one of those ... ahem; flamboyant/arrogant "LOOK AT ME! I'm THE MAN!" Good stuff; thanks for taking time out to share. I subscribed and will be watching others too.
I know this is an older video. I’m doing a reno on my lower level which is half block and the upper part is framed on the block. Funny thing is after I tore out the walls, all that was there was 3/4 of soft foam board between strapping with foil and the upper was bat insulation with the paper face and a paper over that covering the studs and painted wood panelling. No moisture or mold. Been like that for over 40 years. I’ll be doing some waterproofing from inside the house using the membrane into the foundation after it’s broken up. I notice hydrostatic pressure in the lower block. So I’ll be getting that fixed all the way around the basement on that third level. I’m in southwestern Ontario where it’s pretty hot and humid in the summer and the winters can be cold but are short. I’m going to use foam board along the lower portion of the block wall and then frame my walls after sealing up the foam board seams. I want to use Rockwool For the insulation in the walls. I may spray foam the upper cavities because it’s deeper And use Rockwool over that. I’m at a crossroads with the vapour barrier. I don’t wanna have any moisture problems. I just want to know if it would be OK just to install the Rockwool between the studs and then drywall over it and finish? I’ll be taking the time to seal all the cracks and crevices along the way. What are your thoughts on the vapour barrier not being used? I have a fourth level that has Rockwool in between metal studs and there’s no vapour barrier and have not had any moisture issues at all. That lower level is fully in the ground.
Would love to see a video on basement steel stud framing, info on all the difference pieces that go with steel stuffing and tips to installing it. Considering remodeling my basement with steel studs.
Excellent, had to tear down a wall to remove our old heating oil tank hidden behind. Glued that same foam to the concrete and framed with 2x3 about an inch away from it. Was wondering if it was a good idea to add 6mil vapor barrier on top and you just answered that instantly.
+HouseImprovements interesting and probably just cheaper to buy the thinner rigid foam and the vapor barrier, than 2" foam and no barrier. thanks Shannon!
I do believe the "thinking" about having the rigid insulation isn't about insulation, it is about water diversion. Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't a homewrap do the same thing? Granted, you do have an extra 1" of insulation
Hi Shannon - thanks for another great video. I love your channel! I agree with many of the other commentators on this video, the poly vapor retarder is a problem. Since the XPS insulation is also a vapor retarder, now you have wood framing between 2 vapor retarders. Any moisture in the plane of the framing is trapped and will eventually rot and mold the wood framing. Better to use 2" of XPS and leave the stud cavities empty. I have used this method before and had good results.
+Edward Dueppen You are right, but IIRC 1" of XPS is not considered a vapor retarder much... 2" yes. Anyway, still better than putting batts directly on concrete walls.
You said spray foam would be better, I don't think this couple that had to have their roof removed in order to get rid of the dangerous foam would agree. I wish there were more videos on using rigid closed cell foam boards combined with bat insulation as that is what I am thinking about doing and if something goes wrong it is easy to remove. For me I am trying to insulate a garage with a room above so thinking 2" rigid foam sealed around with spray foam from a can to stop air flow then followed with bat insulation. Being the rigid board would stop moisture I would not think I need to add any type of water barrier like house wrap at the garage side, but these are the things I would like talked about in a video. I am not sure if water vapor that comes from the garage side through the Sheetrock then the bat insulation and then stopped at the rigid board is an issue or not. On the inside I would think the AC dehumidifier affect would take care of any moisture issue, but again love to see these type of topics discussed on future videos. czcams.com/video/0Hh5MYv7lWc/video.html
God bless and may you live long to help people like me..your vid are Just too explanatory ,I've learnt alot from your vids raging from tools n make work being perfect..God bless again ..!!
Love this video and this is exactly how I'm doing mine. However, the customer service team at Owens Corning is telling me to not use Poly because the 1in foam board already provides a vapor barrier and using Poly will create a second vapor barrier. Do you know anything about this?
It’s VERY important not to install a vapor barrier over the fiberglass as this would create a double barrier trapping any moisture between the insulation and vapor barrier.
Actually depends where you live, in my area a vapour barrier is still required unless the foam is over 2" thick. A good idea would be to use a "smart Barrier" for your vapour barrier.
depends on manufacture specifications but usually foam board needs to be atleast 2' thick to be considered a vapour barrier, in this case he is using 1" so a vapor barrier is needed
Think about an old school styrofoam coffee cup. Does liquid leak out? Does moisture condense on the outside of the cup? No and no. Foam board with the seams sealed with tape or spray foam just works.
@HouseImprovements: You said the rigid foam is a vapor barrier, but then you also mention toward the end that you need the plastic sheet vapor barrier over the batt insulation. I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't have multiple vapor barriers. Is there a risk of condensation in the batt insulation?
Hi, great video. Do I need brush/paint with concrete isolation liquid before I install star-foam, or I can install the star-foam directly on bare basement concrete wall?
I was told that if I use a 2 inch rigid foam barrier that I do not need to put a plastic barrier on my stud wall . I live in Canada . I would like to know what you think great video thank
That all depends on your local inspection office and what they will accept or not. In my city in Southern Saskatchewan they still want to see a air/vapour barrier even over 2" rigid foam. In the future I think I will use one of the "smart barriers" that have come out in the last few years. They will allow the wall to breath if it is needed. Certainteed is one brand that has one.
Should you also use masonry waterproofer on the concrete first, and then use the foam board? Or can the waterproofer be left out? Also, how should you frame if there is a trench around the basement floor? Does the frame go to the edge of the trench, or directly up against the wall? Thanks so much
Hey Shannon. Love your videos. I’m in Montreal and about to start reframing my recently gutted basement due to mold. I was planning on adhering 1” rigid foam board to the concrete foundation then 2x3 framing in front of that and was going to squeeze in some rockwool in the cavities. Do you think that would suffice for our harsh winters? Thanks and keep up the good work.
That will work fine. Be sure your using R 14 minimum . 2x3s are too narrow for the Roxul depth but just frame the front edge of the framing out at 5" off the concrete and you should be fine unless your concert walls are really crooked or out of plumb then you may need to be out just a bit more.
Could you adapt this method to sheath a house "from the inside" that had the sheathing ruined by a flood without removing the brick. Yes it would have to be held with adhesive, there would be cutting sliding pieces around brick ties, caulking etc, and a lot of taping in odd angles, as well as things that would have to be done to give it more structured support,but I think it could it be done. The reason I ask is I have heard flood insurance polices are paying for homes built with older gypsum sheath, but they are only paying out a small amount. they don't want to pay to have all the brick removed, they pay for a method that uses a tar paper looking sheet and its screwed to the studs then a spray foam is sprayed, it is either cut to slide between brick ties or new replacement ties are put in that don't look safe, It also seems they leave the studs exposed with no moister barrier. I am afraid this is what they are going to try to sell me on, if these boards are flexable enough and light enough they seem better.
I insulated an un heated area of my basement (root cellar) which keeps it around 50-60 degrees F year around.I used this method with the styrofoam. Rather than plastic moisture barrier over it I used kraft faced insulation. I am getting moisture between the styrofoam and fiberglass batting. Just trying to figure out what I am doing wrong. I do have some water leaking in somewhere with heaving rain. I was trying to find that leak and found out about the moisture everywhere.
I talked to both the styrofoam and fiberglass manufacturers. They both told me that I should not used faced insulation over the styrofoam because moisture can get trapped between the two moisture barriers and can't get out.
1" foam does not have a perm rating that is low enough to be rated as a vapour barrier. It is acting as insulation and the moisture barrier in this position. Vapour barrier and moisture barrier are not the same thing. Some areas will even allow the use of 2" foam as the moisture barrier, I would advise not taping the seams in that case however.
Great Channel Good job so far guys. Question: since rigid foam acts as a vapour barrier could you use rigid foam on the inside of the house instead of vapour barrier to add even more R-Value if you can't place it against the wall because the framing is already up?
Now here’s a question. Im in Western NY. I’m only finishing half the basement. I plan on insulating the finished area’s exterior walls this way. I have no plans or desire to do the same to the the unfinished side. How should I insulate the interior wall separating the spaces? Use regular fiberglass? Faced or I faced? Do I need a vapor barrier? I do enjoy your videos and would definitely appreciate a response. Thanks
That's a bit of a tough one. If the unfinished side is still heated then I would say no vapour barrier. We have a great forum if you need more info.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I have a concrete block building ,that is about 15 foot by 40 foot. That is in good shape.. it has electric ran on the walls. And it has a ceiling up, and one wall. I want to turn it into a house. We live in a travel trailer now. My plan is to put walls up and insulation on the exterior walls. The ceiling also has insulation as well. I am going to start at one end and make a hotel style room, with a small kitchen, and a sitting area , and a decent bathroom. Once I get that area fixed, I am going to frame a smaller room so I can have a studio . I am a magician, clown, and a puppet builder, so I need a room for my stuff. I do want to make a guest bedroom, a large open room for a den, a dining area, and a bigger kitchen, and another bathroom and laundry room. My question is , do I need to insulate all the walls, or just the exterior walls? Plus I can not get under the building because there is no access door. What do I need to buy so I can run a drain line thru the blocks and run the line along the exterior Of the building??
Are you sure about putting vapid barrier against the wall (the Styrofoam), and "visqueen" plastic on the room side, how would moisture between the two in the bag insulation get out? Everything I've read/ seen says one side should be open to breath and allow moisture to escape otherwise rot and mildew develop? If you use EPS board you get an insulating board that can breathe.
Very worthy to hear your presentation. How much do u spent to renovate a basement into 2 bedroom plus living room with open concept kitchen by contractor. Tks
Love your channel and wealth of knowledge you provide us! I’m in Petawawa, Ontario and insulating basement block walls. I’m going with 2” xps foam board glued to the block and sealed/tapped. Then 2x4 framed wall with Roxul insulation. Question is do I need 6mill poly over the framed wall before I drywall? Or am I risking trapping moisture? There are so many varying opinions!
Some people recommend leaving a 1/2" gap between the foam board and concrete to allow air flow if any moisture gets back there. Do you agree with that approach? My rim joists are insulated with foam board. If I were to use this system, where should the 1" foam panel end? I assume Ill want to avoid enclosing the rim joist air pocket between 2 layers of foam board.
Our builder put fibreglass insulation with vapor barrier in the basement covering from floor to ceiling. Are you suggesting that i remove it all and install the rigid insulation? The house was built in 2013 Best regards.
Wouldn't you seal your transparent vapor barrier with acoustical sealant in the basement too? There might be some but I don't see it on the video on the part you had already done?
1. Can you exclude the vapour barrier? ...I have heard a number of people complaining about condensation on the inside of the plastic because it prevents inward drying and therefore the condensation collects on the cold side of the vapour barrier (plastic). 2. My idea is....1.5inch FOAMULAR CodeBord direct against a concrete wall, 2x4 framed wall insulated with ROXUL insulation (which does not absorb water and fire retardant) and leave off the vapour barrier plastic then drywall with a moisture/mold resistant drywall....your thoughts on that?
In many areas you must have a minimum of 2" of rigid foam before you can delete the poly vapour barrier. Check with your local building code authority to be sure of the rules in your zone.
Thanks...did some digging for myself (...may help others)... If your insulation is to be used as a form of vapour barrier ONTARIO Building Code states: "vapour barrier shall have a permeance no greater than 60 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) Here are values from OWEN CORNING FOAMular based on thickness. 1 inch = 86 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) or 1.5 Perm (therefore needs separate vapour barrier) 1.5 inch = 45.77 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) or 0.8 Perm (ok without separate vapour barrier) 2 inch = 40.05 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) or 0.7 Perm (ok without separate vapour barrier) Conversion: US Perm to Metric perm multiply by 0.659045 US Perm to ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) (metric) multiply by 57.2135 Metric Perm to ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) (metric) multiply by 86.8127
....I heard that moisture can collect on the vapor barrier then leading to black staining mold/mildew. It's a topic that many hesitate to offer an answer to... for obvious reasons. I did it in my basement but since have been "almost" convinced that I should have left it off for air circulation....I have 1.5 FOAMULAR glued to the block basement wall as a cold barrier before my Roxul
DeeInTheHouse How did that end up working for a block wall basement? That's what I have. Everyone on here, always does vids on perfectly pored, and newer basement walls and not block basement walls.
Looks great! I noticed you didn't put any fire blocking on your framing. Is there a reason for not adding? Or maybe you will add it later? The reason I point this out is I've heard something about not needing blocking when you insulate this way. Love your videos!!
Seems like there is alot of conflicting information everywhere I look, Here is something else to consider, i hope people will share their thoughts on what i am about to write. from what i can understand, you will not stop moisture from permeating through a sub grade exterior wall because concrete is porous and will absorb moisture from the surounding soil. In my opinion, using foam to get away from the visible condensation that is present when you use poly sheets as a vapour barrier is not solving the problem because if you had condensation with the poly, you most likely will have condensation with rigid foam. The only difference is that you cannot see through foam panelling like you can with transparent poly sheet, so it is creating the illusion of a non existent moisture problem. like i said before, feel free to share your thoughts i am no expert and i want to learn the best methods possible as well from my findings, the only way to have the perfect basement without having to bandaid it every decade or so is to: (some points may seem silly or common sense but bare with me) 1. direct eavestrough outputs far away from your house to prevent water from collecting around your foundation, if you have no eavestrough, install some and make sure your downspouts are put in such a way that you can direct the water with the black corregated piping safely away from the house. 2. have a proper drainage system outside of the house consisting of weeping tile for the water you cannot control. just because you know your house has weeping tile, doesnt mean it is working right. if it is an older house, it might be built with old terracotta pieces and over time get clogged which results in standing water around your foundation. if the system is not graded properly allowing the water to drain away, again, standing water around the foundation. 3. the perimeter of the subgrade walls should be sealed from the outside not the inside. if you seal from the inside (with paint), essentially you're just allowing water to build inside of the wall. where on the other hand, if you seal the outside youre stopping the water before it can even touch the concrete where it would have been absorbed. im not sure of any other way to seal concrete foundations other than the old school way of tarring the outside, which does not last forever. sometimes it needs to be dug up, and resealed. 4. i believe that insulating the outside makes more sense than insulating from the inside especially when dealing with below grade walls. you can apply rigid foam just like he did but to the ouside of the house, apply it much thicker of course to gain as much R value as possible without the worry of losing space within the house. you can purchase rigid foam boards meant for this that have drainage channels built into them so if there is any surface water present near the foundation it will easily drain into your properly installed weeping tile system to drain away from the house. added bonus of doing this is that youre insulating a larger thermal mass than you would be if you were to insult from the inside, therefore making it harder for the house to lose or gain thermal energy. i kind of lost my inital train of thought... any comments?
Actually the reason for a moisture barrier is not to be the primary material to stop moisture from coming in. The best way to do that is from the outside. But even then over time you may get issues again.The reason for a moisture barrier is to direct this moisture or moisture from frost down to the floor instead of allowing it to soak into the insulation. When the foam Insulation is installed correctly it will usually also stop the frost from forming. If you have other questions please do not hesitate to go to our forum. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Much if not all of what you say above is correct. Everything I've read, and certain of the videos I've watched, has echoed the above. As for #4, absolutely the ideal way to insulate, as well as to seal, a basement is on the outside. Optimally done, you/we would not require insulation at all on the inside, let alone a vapour barrier. The challenge comes in the form of the complexity and cost of insulating an existing structure from the exterior -- hence, the big complicated compromise of trying to do so effectively and efficiently on the interior. Always the compromises and the complications!
ACQ screws and fasteners are specially coated and are rated to be in contact with pressure treated lumber. Read the packaging of the fasteners you are purchasing.Regular fasteners will rust prematurely and could fail over time.
Just wondering why you would not use 2" thick XPS which should yield R10 approx then build out with your firing strips with no fiberglass and just sheet rock? Seems like it would save a step and give you the insulation. What is the major reason not to? TIA
for me the floor above is the fire break but your code could be different. Come to my forum and we can discuss options there. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I ran across similar situation - needing firebreak at top of 1.5" foam board. I ran my ceiling drywall all the way to the mudsill (or at least within a 1/2"), then applied bead of fire-rated expanding foam around the perimeter to fill in any gaps. While the drywall I used was not "fire rated" variety, it passed muster with my building inspector in providing needed fire block. On a similar note, our local code (Portland Oregon) requires periodic VERTICAL fire blocks when applying rigid foam board if there is going to be electrical installed in wall. I am thinking this could be a PT 2X attached to wall at req'd intervals, but this would be source of insulation gap and pot'l for moisture intrusion - Perhaps could cover with sticky window flashing (??).
Right. The key is not allowing warm air to meet a cold solid surface. That is the precise point where condensate water forms. If warm air cannot get to the dewpoint it needs to turn to water (ie..cold concrete walls)....you are good.
@@HouseImprovements foam board is not a vapour barrier....foam board is not a vapour barrier, it is an insulator/isolator or cold barrier against the concrete
@@8BitLife69 VAPOR BARRIER - A vapor barrier on the warm side should be constructed with a venting path on the cold side of the insulation because no vapor barrier can keep all water out of a structure. ...XPS Foam Board is considered a vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier...
Hello, Shannon. I learned so much from your video. I am finishing my basement after watching your video but I have a question. Do I need an air gap between the rigid foam and the stud? Or can stud touch the rigid foam?
Your better off if there is a slight air gap. I like to place my framing about 1" from the foam. This will help account for unplumbed concrete or crooked concrete walls also.
Great video. If I install and seal the ridged insulation on the basement walls then install fibreglass batting do I still need to use acoustical caulking on the vapour barrier?
What product did you seal the Styrofoam joints with? Caulking or low expansion foam? Can Styrofoam panels be glued to concrete, or do you recommend fasteners? Why? My basement is unfinished with a 90 year old poured foundation. There are small cracks that allow water in seasonally. After a couple days, it seeps out through small cracks in the floor. No biggie (been that way longer than I've been alive, likely). While I don't intend to upgrade the basement to living space, I would like to insulate the part above ground level (inside). Suggestions?
Shannon, would you use the foam insulation for a basement that has cinder block walls? My thought was to use Dry-Lock on the cinder block and then put foam insulation up.
Hi Shannon thx for making these great videos! Have a question for you, I live in northern ontario were frost is a big factor, if im putting styrofoam all the way down the wall will the pressure from the frost cause a break in the foundation as there is no escape? What is your opinion on the matter ? Should i have cause for concern?
Great Video, But shouldn't we be concerned about double vapour barrier with the sealed rigid foam and the plastic? Seems to be a contested idea, would love to understand it better.
What about a block basement, which are more common in older type homes like mine. Could you please explain the most benefit insulation/moisture barrier and where it doesn't kill the pocket book. My basement man cave is 422 sqft. Please and thanks.
You use to be really good about replying back. Must be really busy. I'll have to figure it out. Army Vet with more surgeries on the way, and pressed for time. Thanks anyway. -
Hope your surgeries were helpful, and that you're doing well. As for your questions... You've probably completed this long ago. But, for what it's worth, there is a variety of very good advice in the thread above. The answer always begins with where you are. In BC there is of course a wide range of climate variations. In essence, the conclusion that I've come to (in southern Ontario) is likely 1.5" foam with joints taped and foamed to create a monolithic seal; then Roxul in a stud wall; then straight to drywall. Membrain by CertainTeed, as noted by some others, may make sense in place of a poly before the drywall. As I've read elsewhere, lastly, paint the drywall with a latex vapour retarder primer. You can check out this link: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall#ixzz5868pWwNu
@@nrfa6229 Thanks for the laugh. Vets are always so entitled. Lots of professions save lives and protect people, vets are the only ones that brag about it.
I did my basement the same way but please DO NOT USE a vapour barrier after the fibreglass insulation. When it’s -15 outside and 22 inside somewhere in the middle the temps will collide and condensate. With two vapour barriers the insulation will not be able to dry and you will get lots of great mold. Use a house wrap for the interior it allows it to breath and dry
A house wrap between the drywall and batt insulation will not pass code as an air/vapour barrier. There are "smart barriers" that will allow some breathing and that will pass code.
I am buying a 1946 house where part of the cinder block basement has no house above it. Just a concrete slab which serves as a porch. I’m worried about that area being extra cold and having condensation issues. Would it make sense to glue the foam board panels on the walls AND the slab ceiling? Should I also add 2x4’s across the ceiling (attached to the walls) and staple paper faced batts up there? I’d really like to make the room into a usable a workshop for myself and not have to worry about moisture and mold.
have a question about using rigid foam insulation in the basement. I am not going to finish the basement. I'm just trying to get some additional insulation on the concrete walls. When we get a ton of rain (several inches in a day or two) some water does seep into the basement . We do have a sump pump for draining our dehumidifier and so I can sweep excess water into the pump after heavy rain. My question is, should I leave a half inch gap between the foam boards and the basement floor, as oppose to, setting the foam boards directly on to the floor? My thought is this will better allow the water to come in so I can continue sweeping it into the sump after heavy rains.
Shannon - Thanks for all your great videos. We redid our bathroom with your vidieos. Now we are working on our basement. My question is how do you do fire blocking with the foam board. My county requires fire blocking vertically every 10 ft. Do I need to do the fire blocking before Installing the foam board or can I do it after?
You probably already got your answer, but in many places code doesn’t allow you to leave exposed rigid foam due to fire concern. You have to cover it with something that has some fire resistance.
Hello. I been watching a few videos about building a bedroom in the cellar because that’s what my daughter wants in her house. I have question about vapor barriers. I seen people put the vapor barriers covering the insulation. I know nothing about vapor barriers and how that keeps moisture out. My question is: Wouldn’t the vapor barrier (plastic sheet) keep moisture in the insulation if the vapor barrier is on the ‘inside’ part of the room? Wouldn’t it be better to put the vapor barrier between the cement wall and 2x4 frame? That way the insulation stays dry. Thanks.
Moisture barriers go against the concrete and vapour barriers go on the warm side of the insulation. Not all areas require vapour barriers but that is generally just the southern warm states, but best to check your local requirements. If you need more assistance use our forum please.
One is a moisture barrier (against the concrete wall to direct any moisture down to the floor instead of into the wall) the second is a air/vapour barrier ,its mounted on exterior walls and ceilings under the drywall to keep moisture from in the house from going into the wall cavity.
i think its redundant. if you have continuous foam insulation there is no cold condensing surface and you are air tight as well. so if anything you will create a chance for vapor to get stuck.
Shannon...Why not use screws as they hold better and won't eventually work their way out with any movement such as the install of the drywall or other things? Ron
+ron price I assume you are referring to the framing. You could use screws for this type of none structural framing if you want. Use the proper nails and there is no problem.
I’m questioning the cost of this.. 1” foam board is $1.10 per sqft, R14 roxul for 2X4 walls is $0.89 per sqft. Then add in blue tick tape at +$20 a roll, vapour barrier, tapcons, foam sealant, and of course time, it’s on par or could be even more than spray foam. I was told around $3 per sqft at 2-1/2” foam depth. Thoughts?
Yes I would agree the prices of foam board and insulation are steadily increasing and the cost of spray foam in some areas is getting more competitive. Sprayfoam may be a cheaper option if available.
Posters need to understand ANY sprays fam is a crap shoot and totally dependence t on installers knowledge, experience ,attention to detail and yes sobriety. You haven’t lived-and you will die sooner- until you’ve had a bad spray foam job off gassing for years (or permanent !) spoiled foam IS safe ! Can’t put a price on that
I love watching your videos! I have a drain tile system in my basement, if I were to use foam boards on my walls, would I put it right on top of my drain tile? I’m worried that it will block water if it ever comes in to find its way to the drain tile system? Thank you for your help
@@HouseImprovements Thanks for the reply! I was actually asking if a air space between the foam and framing/batt insulation is recommended. My thought is then any moisture on the foam (if any) would not transfer to the batt
Hey Shannon. Your videos are great. Do you have any notes for a stepped concrete wall (concrete and then wood above). The wood area already has fiberglass insulation. I want to insulate the concrete with rigid and then I want to frame a wall in front. Do you suggest any extra work or just making the wood fit around the rigid. There will be nothing load bearing in the wall.
Is the vapor barrier really required on this kind of retrofit? If you used CC foam wouldn't that be enough of a vapor barrier? Just wondering if that wouldn't almost trap moisture in the batts. Either way, good video!
In my area it is required. In some areas if you used 2" foam they may allow you to skip the interior air/vapour barrier. Always check with your local permit office
I’m looking or wondering whether I should insulate a wall between my oil tank area and the living space of the basement. Does it help and what would I use?
I'm going to use 2" dow without tongue and groove. Should I leave a 1/2 " space in between sheets and use spray foam insulation in the 1/2 " space.Then seal with tape.😁
Hi Shannon, Thanks for the great video. Just a quick question. If I am remodelling my basement in stages. Is there a temporary way to cover the rigid foam up after its been installed on the walls (re: fire code) so that its not exposed while I frame, and drywall.
I followed this method to insulate my basement walls & also insulated rim joists. It feels so comfortable now, the temperature is the same as the main level in my house, plus I cut my winter heating bill in half...I used to have a 5000W electric heater that would be on almost 50% of the time to maintain a mere 60 degrees in the winter. Now the heat pump alone is providing enough heat for the whole house for a fraction of the cost...
Where is the heat pump located that it heats the entire house and the basement? At 50% of 5000W, did it translate to 2500W used?
@@gtarules1 The heat pump is your normal setup, heat pump outside, air handler is in the basement. Ducts run through the floor between basement and main floor, and I have vents for both the main floor and the basement coming off the single air handler. Basement was un-insulated so yes, i would need 2500W on average in cold winter days to maintain the basement warm. I have a walk-out basement, so 3 walls are not under-ground, and 1 wall is. There was so much heat loss through the 3 walls that are not below grade. Just 8 inches of concrete block offer an R value of around 1.5. Now the R value of my walls is around 20 (foam board + batt insulation). Using a heat pump with 300% efficiency and insulated walls, the 2.5 ton heat pump is enough to keep the 2000 sq.ft. of space heated, i no longer need to use the 5000W shop heater. On cold winter months, my electric bill used to be around 3000 kWh. Now it rarely exceeds 1500 kWh in the winter. In my area where the kWh averages 16 cents in the winter, that equates to $240 in savings.
watching your videos is both therapeutic and educational. What a gold nugget your channel is
Basement recess light
I’ve learned so much from you and your videos. Probably my favorite channel to learn from. You’ve helped me build a couple of decks, and a shed for my new home. You do a great job of explaining everything so anyone can understand it. Keep doing what you do!
i was told to use a sill seal under the plate , just to get that wood off the concrete and make a better water or moisture barrier. i am using 2 in recycled foam board ( less than half the cost of new) and 2x3 studs with R 15 . its probably over kill. but should be nice and warm in the cold winter in northern NY. cheers.
No other videos compare to these. I learn a ton every time i watch them. Great work and thank you!
This is a really great video. Keep in mind everyone that things change depending on codes and climate in your area.
I've watched two of your videos and like how you teach/educate. You appear very knowledgeable on these topics and professional. What's even better is that you're not one of those ... ahem; flamboyant/arrogant "LOOK AT ME! I'm THE MAN!" Good stuff; thanks for taking time out to share. I subscribed and will be watching others too.
Thanks for subbing Kevin, check out our forum as well if you like. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Thank you for this video. It was extremely helpful for me to insulate my basement. The frame was done but the previous home owner did not finish it.
I know this is an older video. I’m doing a reno on my lower level which is half block and the upper part is framed on the block. Funny thing is after I tore out the walls, all that was there was 3/4 of soft foam board between strapping with foil and the upper was bat insulation with the paper face and a paper over that covering the studs and painted wood panelling. No moisture or mold. Been like that for over 40 years. I’ll be doing some waterproofing from inside the house using the membrane into the foundation after it’s broken up. I notice hydrostatic pressure in the lower block. So I’ll be getting that fixed all the way around the basement on that third level. I’m in southwestern Ontario where it’s pretty hot and humid in the summer and the winters can be cold but are short. I’m going to use foam board along the lower portion of the block wall and then frame my walls after sealing up the foam board seams. I want to use Rockwool For the insulation in the walls. I may spray foam the upper cavities because it’s deeper And use Rockwool over that. I’m at a crossroads with the vapour barrier. I don’t wanna have any moisture problems. I just want to know if it would be OK just to install the Rockwool between the studs and then drywall over it and finish? I’ll be taking the time to seal all the cracks and crevices along the way. What are your thoughts on the vapour barrier not being used? I have a fourth level that has Rockwool in between metal studs and there’s no vapour barrier and have not had any moisture issues at all. That lower level is fully in the ground.
You fall in a climate region where you may get away with it or you may not. Basically follow your local building code regulations.
The Vapour Barrier got me confused. I been researching it and the technology varies. Everyone is using a different method
Great video, I'm in the process of creating a basement laundry area based on this video and a few of your other videos. Keep up the good work!
thanks
Nice thanks you. Straightforward, no shilling
Would love to see a video on basement steel stud framing, info on all the difference pieces that go with steel stuffing and tips to installing it. Considering remodeling my basement with steel studs.
Another video I watched (Risinger?) Said because steel prices are high going back to wood (pressure treated I guess) is now becoming standard.
Excellent, had to tear down a wall to remove our old heating oil tank hidden behind. Glued that same foam to the concrete and framed with 2x3 about an inch away from it. Was wondering if it was a good idea to add 6mil vapor barrier on top and you just answered that instantly.
Thanks! Great video...glad I found your channel, starting to insulate rim joist and finish an unfinished basement. Great job!
Thank you for explaining terms & reasoning. Awesome info & good presentation!!
Wouldn't recommend the vapor barrier after the batts, its just going to trap moisture between the rigid foam and the barrier
+NaturalScott Required by code unless your foam is 2" thick.
+HouseImprovements interesting and probably just cheaper to buy the thinner rigid foam and the vapor barrier, than 2" foam and no barrier. thanks Shannon!
I do believe the "thinking" about having the rigid insulation isn't about insulation, it is about water diversion. Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't a homewrap do the same thing? Granted, you do have an extra 1" of insulation
@@HouseImprovements Money well $pent
Great video Shannon, keep it up. I've learned alot from your videos over the last few years.
You are the only person I dont mind the head interviews.
Nice to find a channel with common sense used in the videos.
I appreciate that!
@@HouseImprovements So do I.
Hi Shannon - thanks for another great video. I love your channel! I agree with many of the other commentators on this video, the poly vapor retarder is a problem. Since the XPS insulation is also a vapor retarder, now you have wood framing between 2 vapor retarders. Any moisture in the plane of the framing is trapped and will eventually rot and mold the wood framing. Better to use 2" of XPS and leave the stud cavities empty. I have used this method before and had good results.
+Edward Dueppen The whole idea is to keep moisture out in this setup, I do understand the concerns but it has worked well for me and others.
+Edward Dueppen You are right, but IIRC 1" of XPS is not considered a vapor retarder much... 2" yes. Anyway, still better than putting batts directly on concrete walls.
You said spray foam would be better, I don't think this couple that had to have their roof removed in order to get rid of the dangerous foam would agree. I wish there were more videos on using rigid closed cell foam boards combined with bat insulation as that is what I am thinking about doing and if something goes wrong it is easy to remove. For me I am trying to insulate a garage with a room above so thinking 2" rigid foam sealed around with spray foam from a can to stop air flow then followed with bat insulation. Being the rigid board would stop moisture I would not think I need to add any type of water barrier like house wrap at the garage side, but these are the things I would like talked about in a video. I am not sure if water vapor that comes from the garage side through the Sheetrock then the bat insulation and then stopped at the rigid board is an issue or not. On the inside I would think the AC dehumidifier affect would take care of any moisture issue, but again love to see these type of topics discussed on future videos.
czcams.com/video/0Hh5MYv7lWc/video.html
Great video.
Do you everything step by step from scratch
First time at your channel
Great and to the point . No jibber jabber simple to understand
Good stuff. I build entire shed from some your videos
+t dub glad to help!
ty so much shannon your videos are terrific for beginners
God bless and may you live long to help people like me..your vid are Just too explanatory ,I've learnt alot from your vids raging from tools n make work being perfect..God bless again ..!!
Thanks again Shannon good work like always. 👍
I always trust your construction tips.
Love this video and this is exactly how I'm doing mine. However, the customer service team at Owens Corning is telling me to not use Poly because the 1in foam board already provides a vapor barrier and using Poly will create a second vapor barrier. Do you know anything about this?
I was just thinking the same thing.
This comment should be pinned at the top because it raises a very good question.
This is my understanding as well. Seems like there is a potential to trap moisture between his concrete wall and studs.
Vapor barrier is code in cold climate areas
Shannon's videos are great! But you're right Kyle. Adding that second layer of vapour barrier does trap moisture. You don't want two layers.
It’s VERY important not to install a vapor barrier over the fiberglass as this would create a double barrier trapping any moisture between the insulation and vapor barrier.
Actually depends where you live, in my area a vapour barrier is still required unless the foam is over 2" thick. A good idea would be to use a "smart Barrier" for your vapour barrier.
depends on manufacture specifications but usually foam board needs to be atleast 2' thick to be considered a vapour barrier, in this case he is using 1" so a vapor barrier is needed
Think about an old school styrofoam coffee cup. Does liquid leak out? Does moisture condense on the outside of the cup? No and no. Foam board with the seams sealed with tape or spray foam just works.
@HouseImprovements: You said the rigid foam is a vapor barrier, but then you also mention toward the end that you need the plastic sheet vapor barrier over the batt insulation. I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't have multiple vapor barriers. Is there a risk of condensation in the batt insulation?
I think the rigid foam acts as the moisture or vapor barrier, whereas the plastic sheeting acts as an air barrier. Makes me wonder now as well....?
@@Ahnen03 That foam insulation is vapor permiable.
Hi, great video. Do I need brush/paint with concrete isolation liquid before I install star-foam, or I can install the star-foam directly on bare basement concrete wall?
Thanks for this information
I was told that if I use a 2 inch rigid foam barrier that I do not need to put a plastic barrier on my stud wall . I live in Canada . I would like to know what you think great video thank
That all depends on your local inspection office and what they will accept or not. In my city in Southern Saskatchewan they still want to see a air/vapour barrier even over 2" rigid foam. In the future I think I will use one of the "smart barriers" that have come out in the last few years. They will allow the wall to breath if it is needed. Certainteed is one brand that has one.
Should you also use masonry waterproofer on the concrete first, and then use the foam board? Or can the waterproofer be left out?
Also, how should you frame if there is a trench around the basement floor? Does the frame go to the edge of the trench, or directly up against the wall? Thanks so much
How long to get an answer
@@maritaeybergen2535 5 years
Hey Shannon. Love your videos. I’m in Montreal and about to start reframing my recently gutted basement due to mold. I was planning on adhering 1” rigid foam board to the concrete foundation then 2x3 framing in front of that and was going to squeeze in some rockwool in the cavities. Do you think that would suffice for our harsh winters? Thanks and keep up the good work.
That will work fine. Be sure your using R 14 minimum . 2x3s are too narrow for the Roxul depth but just frame the front edge of the framing out at 5" off the concrete and you should be fine unless your concert walls are really crooked or out of plumb then you may need to be out just a bit more.
Could you adapt this method to sheath a house "from the inside" that had the sheathing ruined by a flood without removing the brick. Yes it would have to be held with adhesive, there would be cutting sliding pieces around brick ties, caulking etc, and a lot of taping in odd angles, as well as things that would have to be done to give it more structured support,but I think it could it be done. The reason I ask is I have heard flood insurance polices are paying for homes built with older gypsum sheath, but they are only paying out a small amount. they don't want to pay to have all the brick removed, they pay for a method that uses a tar paper looking sheet and its screwed to the studs then a spray foam is sprayed, it is either cut to slide between brick ties or new replacement ties are put in that don't look safe, It also seems they leave the studs exposed with no moister barrier. I am afraid this is what they are going to try to sell me on, if these boards are flexable enough and light enough they seem better.
I insulated an un heated area of my basement (root cellar) which keeps it around 50-60 degrees F year around.I used this method with the styrofoam. Rather than plastic moisture barrier over it I used kraft faced insulation. I am getting moisture between the styrofoam and fiberglass batting. Just trying to figure out what I am doing wrong.
I do have some water leaking in somewhere with heaving rain. I was trying to find that leak and found out about the moisture everywhere.
I talked to both the styrofoam and fiberglass manufacturers. They both told me that I should not used faced insulation over the styrofoam because moisture can get trapped between the two moisture barriers and can't get out.
@@donjanisch4889 how think of foamboard/styrofoam did you use?
Great videos Shannon. Can you advise why you are using a double vapour barrier please. The rigid foam is already a moisture barrier?
1" foam does not have a perm rating that is low enough to be rated as a vapour barrier. It is acting as insulation and the moisture barrier in this position. Vapour barrier and moisture barrier are not the same thing. Some areas will even allow the use of 2" foam as the moisture barrier, I would advise not taping the seams in that case however.
not the most eloquent guy; but you can tell he knows his shit. thanks guy!
Great Channel Good job so far guys.
Question: since rigid foam acts as a vapour barrier could you use rigid foam on the inside of the house instead of vapour barrier to add even more R-Value if you can't place it against the wall because the framing is already up?
+88TheDuke77 If you used at least 2" ,most areas will allow that as a vapour barrier ,check with your local building inspection branch.
Thanks! Awesome video.
Now here’s a question. Im in Western NY. I’m only finishing half the basement. I plan on insulating the finished area’s exterior walls this way. I have no plans or desire to do the same to the the unfinished side. How should I insulate the interior wall separating the spaces? Use regular fiberglass? Faced or I faced? Do I need a vapor barrier? I do enjoy your videos and would definitely appreciate a response. Thanks
That's a bit of a tough one. If the unfinished side is still heated then I would say no vapour barrier. We have a great forum if you need more info.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I have a concrete block building ,that is about 15 foot by 40 foot. That is in good shape.. it has electric ran on the walls. And it has a ceiling up, and one wall. I want to turn it into a house. We live in a travel trailer now.
My plan is to put walls up and insulation on the exterior walls. The ceiling also has insulation as well. I am going to start at one end and make a hotel style room, with a small kitchen, and a sitting area , and a decent bathroom.
Once I get that area fixed, I am going to frame a smaller room so I can have a studio . I am a magician, clown, and a puppet builder, so I need a room for my stuff.
I do want to make a guest bedroom, a large open room for a den, a dining area, and a bigger kitchen, and another bathroom and laundry room.
My question is , do I need to insulate all the walls, or just the exterior walls? Plus I can not get under the building because there is no access door. What do I need to buy so I can run a drain line thru the blocks and run the line along the exterior Of the building??
Please copy and paste this question into my forum ,we can help from there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Very helpful!
Are you sure about putting vapid barrier against the wall (the Styrofoam), and "visqueen" plastic on the room side, how would moisture between the two in the bag insulation get out? Everything I've read/ seen says one side should be open to breath and allow moisture to escape otherwise rot and mildew develop? If you use EPS board you get an insulating board that can breathe.
Very worthy to hear your presentation. How much do u spent to renovate a basement into 2 bedroom plus living room with open concept kitchen by contractor. Tks
Love your channel and wealth of knowledge you provide us!
I’m in Petawawa, Ontario and insulating basement block walls. I’m going with 2” xps foam board glued to the block and sealed/tapped. Then 2x4 framed wall with Roxul insulation.
Question is do I need 6mill poly over the framed wall before I drywall?
Or am I risking trapping moisture?
There are so many varying opinions!
In most areas building code still requires it. Check your local code office.
Some people recommend leaving a 1/2" gap between the foam board and concrete to allow air flow if any moisture gets back there. Do you agree with that approach?
My rim joists are insulated with foam board. If I were to use this system, where should the 1" foam panel end? I assume Ill want to avoid enclosing the rim joist air pocket between 2 layers of foam board.
I don't recommend a space behind the foam.
Stop the wall foam at the bottom of the joists.
Our builder put fibreglass insulation with vapor barrier in the basement covering from floor to ceiling.
Are you suggesting that i remove it all and install the rigid insulation?
The house was built in 2013
Best regards.
Unless you are having issues or are re doing the basement anyways it will not be worth the effort
Good job
+Qinggui Meng thanks
Wouldn't you seal your transparent vapor barrier with acoustical sealant in the basement too? There might be some but I don't see it on the video on the part you had already done?
Absolutely . As stated at about the 2:55 mark that area is not sealed yet.
1. Can you exclude the vapour barrier? ...I have heard a number of people complaining about condensation on the inside of the plastic because it prevents inward drying and therefore the condensation collects on the cold side of the vapour barrier (plastic).
2. My idea is....1.5inch FOAMULAR CodeBord direct against a concrete wall, 2x4 framed wall insulated with ROXUL insulation (which does not absorb water and fire retardant) and leave off the vapour barrier plastic then drywall with a moisture/mold resistant drywall....your thoughts on that?
In many areas you must have a minimum of 2" of rigid foam before you can delete the poly vapour barrier. Check with your local building code authority to be sure of the rules in your zone.
Thanks...did some digging for myself (...may help others)...
If your insulation is to be used as a form of vapour barrier ONTARIO Building Code states:
"vapour barrier shall have a permeance no greater than 60 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared)
Here are values from OWEN CORNING FOAMular based on thickness.
1 inch = 86 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) or 1.5 Perm (therefore needs separate vapour barrier)
1.5 inch = 45.77 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) or 0.8 Perm (ok without separate vapour barrier)
2 inch = 40.05 ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) or 0.7 Perm (ok without separate vapour barrier)
Conversion:
US Perm to Metric perm multiply by 0.659045
US Perm to ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) (metric) multiply by 57.2135
Metric Perm to ng/(Pa*s*meter squared) (metric) multiply by 86.8127
DeeInTheHouse That is an excellent question, BC I've heard the same thing! It's too bad that, he didn't reply back to you!!
....I heard that moisture can collect on the vapor barrier then leading to black staining mold/mildew. It's a topic that many hesitate to offer an answer to... for obvious reasons. I did it in my basement but since have been "almost" convinced that I should have left it off for air circulation....I have 1.5 FOAMULAR glued to the block basement wall as a cold barrier before my Roxul
DeeInTheHouse How did that end up working for a block wall basement? That's what I have. Everyone on here, always does vids on perfectly pored, and newer basement walls and not block basement walls.
Thanks
Looks great! I noticed you didn't put any fire blocking on your framing. Is there a reason for not adding? Or maybe you will add it later? The reason I point this out is I've heard something about not needing blocking when you insulate this way. Love your videos!!
+KimJasonE Not required in my situation.
Seems like there is alot of conflicting information everywhere I look, Here is something else to consider, i hope people will share their thoughts on what i am about to write.
from what i can understand, you will not stop moisture from permeating through a sub grade exterior wall because concrete is porous and will absorb moisture from the surounding soil. In my opinion, using foam to get away from the visible condensation that is present when you use poly sheets as a vapour barrier is not solving the problem because if you had condensation with the poly, you most likely will have condensation with rigid foam. The only difference is that you cannot see through foam panelling like you can with transparent poly sheet, so it is creating the illusion of a non existent moisture problem.
like i said before, feel free to share your thoughts i am no expert and i want to learn the best methods possible as well
from my findings, the only way to have the perfect basement without having to bandaid it every decade or so is to:
(some points may seem silly or common sense but bare with me)
1. direct eavestrough outputs far away from your house to prevent water from collecting around your foundation, if you have no eavestrough, install some and make sure your downspouts are put in such a way that you can direct the water with the black corregated piping safely away from the house.
2. have a proper drainage system outside of the house consisting of weeping tile for the water you cannot control. just because you know your house has weeping tile, doesnt mean it is working right. if it is an older house, it might be built with old terracotta pieces and over time get clogged which results in standing water around your foundation. if the system is not graded properly allowing the water to drain away, again, standing water around the foundation.
3. the perimeter of the subgrade walls should be sealed from the outside not the inside. if you seal from the inside (with paint), essentially you're just allowing water to build inside of the wall. where on the other hand, if you seal the outside youre stopping the water before it can even touch the concrete where it would have been absorbed. im not sure of any other way to seal concrete foundations other than the old school way of tarring the outside, which does not last forever. sometimes it needs to be dug up, and resealed.
4. i believe that insulating the outside makes more sense than insulating from the inside especially when dealing with below grade walls. you can apply rigid foam just like he did but to the ouside of the house, apply it much thicker of course to gain as much R value as possible without the worry of losing space within the house. you can purchase rigid foam boards meant for this that have drainage channels built into them so if there is any surface water present near the foundation it will easily drain into your properly installed weeping tile system to drain away from the house. added bonus of doing this is that youre insulating a larger thermal mass than you would be if you were to insult from the inside, therefore making it harder for the house to lose or gain thermal energy.
i kind of lost my inital train of thought... any comments?
Actually the reason for a moisture barrier is not to be the primary material to stop moisture from coming in. The best way to do that is from the outside. But even then over time you may get issues again.The reason for a moisture barrier is to direct this moisture or moisture from frost down to the floor instead of allowing it to soak into the insulation. When the foam Insulation is installed correctly it will usually also stop the frost from forming. If you have other questions please do not hesitate to go to our forum. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Much if not all of what you say above is correct. Everything I've read, and certain of the videos I've watched, has echoed the above. As for #4, absolutely the ideal way to insulate, as well as to seal, a basement is on the outside. Optimally done, you/we would not require insulation at all on the inside, let alone a vapour barrier. The challenge comes in the form of the complexity and cost of insulating an existing structure from the exterior -- hence, the big complicated compromise of trying to do so effectively and efficiently on the interior. Always the compromises and the complications!
See the following for a very detailed explanation on vapor issues (confirms some of your points): czcams.com/video/kwn0Vjw_ji0/video.html
Shannon - like the video about insulating and framing a concrete wall in the basement. Is it the same process for block as it is for poured?
You talk about if I are using pressure treated wood as the base, use acu screws, What is ACU screws
ACQ screws and fasteners are specially coated and are rated to be in contact with pressure treated lumber. Read the packaging of the fasteners you are purchasing.Regular fasteners will rust prematurely and could fail over time.
Just wondering why you would not use 2" thick XPS which should yield R10 approx then build out with your firing strips with no fiberglass and just sheet rock? Seems like it would save a step and give you the insulation. What is the major reason not to? TIA
I think TOH have a video using that technique.. but they use strapping instead of 2x4
Are you adding a fire break on top of your foam. Looking for a video on how best to accomplish that.
for me the floor above is the fire break but your code could be different. Come to my forum and we can discuss options there. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I ran across similar situation - needing firebreak at top of 1.5" foam board. I ran my ceiling drywall all the way to the mudsill (or at least within a 1/2"), then applied bead of fire-rated expanding foam around the perimeter to fill in any gaps. While the drywall I used was not "fire rated" variety, it passed muster with my building inspector in providing needed fire block.
On a similar note, our local code (Portland Oregon) requires periodic VERTICAL fire blocks when applying rigid foam board if there is going to be electrical installed in wall. I am thinking this could be a PT 2X attached to wall at req'd intervals, but this would be source of insulation gap and pot'l for moisture intrusion - Perhaps could cover with sticky window flashing (??).
Thank you!
If the 1" rigid foam is a vapor barrier why use the poly vapor barrier as well?
1" foam is a vapour barrier but not enough for a air barrier. if you used 2" foam, in some areas then you would not need the poly vapour /air barrier
Right. The key is not allowing warm air to meet a cold solid surface. That is the precise point where condensate water forms. If warm air cannot get to the dewpoint it needs to turn to water (ie..cold concrete walls)....you are good.
@@HouseImprovements foam board is not a vapour barrier....foam board is not a vapour barrier, it is an insulator/isolator or cold barrier against the concrete
@@DeeInTheHouse Foam board IS a vapor barrier. IS.
@@8BitLife69 VAPOR BARRIER - A vapor barrier on the warm side should be constructed with a venting path on the cold side of the insulation because no vapor barrier can keep all water out of a structure. ...XPS Foam Board is considered a vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier...
great video
+Moses Kirkland Thank you
Hello, Shannon. I learned so much from your video. I am finishing my basement after watching your video but I have a question. Do I need an air gap between the rigid foam and the stud? Or can stud touch the rigid foam?
Your better off if there is a slight air gap. I like to place my framing about 1" from the foam. This will help account for unplumbed concrete or crooked concrete walls also.
Great video. If I install and seal the ridged insulation on the basement walls then install fibreglass batting do I still need to use acoustical caulking on the vapour barrier?
Two vapor barriers, I don't think so this creates a mold sandwich. Also use rockwool not fiberglass.
What product did you seal the Styrofoam joints with? Caulking or low expansion foam?
Can Styrofoam panels be glued to concrete, or do you recommend fasteners? Why?
My basement is unfinished with a 90 year old poured foundation. There are small cracks that allow water in seasonally. After a couple days, it seeps out through small cracks in the floor. No biggie (been that way longer than I've been alive, likely). While I don't intend to upgrade the basement to living space, I would like to insulate the part above ground level (inside).
Suggestions?
Shannon, would you use the foam insulation for a basement that has cinder block walls? My thought was to use Dry-Lock on the cinder block and then put foam insulation up.
Do I have to put a plastic vapor barrier before drywall? I have foam board, frame and electric done. Ready to add the batting.
Hi Shannon thx for making these great videos! Have a question for you, I live in northern ontario were frost is a big factor, if im putting styrofoam all the way down the wall will the pressure from the frost cause a break in the foundation as there is no escape? What is your opinion on the matter ? Should i have cause for concern?
Great Video, But shouldn't we be concerned about double vapour barrier with the sealed rigid foam and the plastic? Seems to be a contested idea, would love to understand it better.
In my area this system is accepted . You could use an interior "Smart Barrier" inplace of standard poly air/vapour barrier if you have any concerns.
What about a block basement, which are more common in older type homes like mine. Could you please explain the most benefit insulation/moisture barrier and where it doesn't kill the pocket book. My basement man cave is 422 sqft. Please and thanks.
You use to be really good about replying back. Must be really busy. I'll have to figure it out. Army Vet with more surgeries on the way, and pressed for time. Thanks anyway. -
Hope your surgeries were helpful, and that you're doing well.
As for your questions... You've probably completed this long ago. But, for what it's worth, there is a variety of very good advice in the thread above. The answer always begins with where you are. In BC there is of course a wide range of climate variations. In essence, the conclusion that I've come to (in southern Ontario) is likely 1.5" foam with joints taped and foamed to create a monolithic seal; then Roxul in a stud wall; then straight to drywall. Membrain by CertainTeed, as noted by some others, may make sense in place of a poly before the drywall. As I've read elsewhere, lastly, paint the drywall with a latex vapour retarder primer. You can check out this link: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall#ixzz5868pWwNu
Nrfa ng
@@nrfa6229 Thanks for the laugh. Vets are always so entitled. Lots of professions save lives and protect people, vets are the only ones that brag about it.
I did my basement the same way but please DO NOT USE a vapour barrier after the fibreglass insulation. When it’s -15 outside and 22 inside somewhere in the middle the temps will collide and condensate. With two vapour barriers the insulation will not be able to dry and you will get lots of great mold. Use a house wrap for the interior it allows it to breath and dry
A house wrap between the drywall and batt insulation will not pass code as an air/vapour barrier. There are "smart barriers" that will allow some breathing and that will pass code.
Interesting, I ask a general contractor and he said, they put the vapour barrier on the concrete then insulation.
I am buying a 1946 house where part of the cinder block basement has no house above it. Just a concrete slab which serves as a porch. I’m worried about that area being extra cold and having condensation issues. Would it make sense to glue the foam board panels on the walls AND the slab ceiling? Should I also add 2x4’s across the ceiling (attached to the walls) and staple paper faced batts up there? I’d really like to make the room into a usable a workshop for myself and not have to worry about moisture and mold.
have a question about using rigid foam insulation in the basement. I am not going to finish the basement. I'm just trying to get some additional insulation on the concrete walls. When we get a ton of rain (several inches in a day or two) some water does seep into the basement . We do have a sump pump for draining our dehumidifier and so I can sweep excess water into the pump after heavy rain. My question is, should I leave a half inch gap between the foam boards and the basement floor, as oppose to, setting the foam boards directly on to the floor? My thought is this will better allow the water to come in so I can continue sweeping it into the sump after heavy rains.
Hi ,
You put both the rigid foam and the other isolation ? Or one of them ? Thank you for all your videos
hi I like your video it is helped me
Shannon - Thanks for all your great videos. We redid our bathroom with your vidieos. Now we are working on our basement. My question is how do you do fire blocking with the foam board. My county requires fire blocking vertically every 10 ft. Do I need to do the fire blocking before Installing the foam board or can I do it after?
Glad our videos have been helpful. You can post this question in my free forum and we can discuss it there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
for my basement walls, can i just use the rigid foam boards only, without the batt and vapor barrier.? thank you,
You probably already got your answer, but in many places code doesn’t allow you to leave exposed rigid foam due to fire concern. You have to cover it with something that has some fire resistance.
@@twiincentral8780 that would be the drywall right?
@@LayneRoxxx yep. My understanding is that rigid foam let’s off toxic gas when burning so you want drywall to give you time in case of a fire.
Hello. I been watching a few videos about building a bedroom in the cellar because that’s what my daughter wants in her house. I have question about vapor barriers. I seen people put the vapor barriers covering the insulation. I know nothing about vapor barriers and how that keeps moisture out. My question is: Wouldn’t the vapor barrier (plastic sheet) keep moisture in the insulation if the vapor barrier is on the ‘inside’ part of the room? Wouldn’t it be better to put the vapor barrier between the cement wall and 2x4 frame? That way the insulation stays dry. Thanks.
Moisture barriers go against the concrete and vapour barriers go on the warm side of the insulation. Not all areas require vapour barriers but that is generally just the southern warm states, but best to check your local requirements. If you need more assistance use our forum please.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks. I was confused on moisture barrier and vapor barriers.
What do you do if the wall isn't flush
Ours has a jut out at the base
Thanks, Why do you need 2 vapor barriers?
One is a moisture barrier (against the concrete wall to direct any moisture down to the floor instead of into the wall) the second is a air/vapour barrier ,its mounted on exterior walls and ceilings under the drywall to keep moisture from in the house from going into the wall cavity.
@@HouseImprovements
Thank you!
Hey, been watching your vids, Nd on this particular vid....juat curious why you do the plastic vapor barrior when you already have the xps. Thanks.
i think its redundant. if you have continuous foam insulation there is no cold condensing surface and you are air tight as well. so if anything you will create a chance for vapor to get stuck.
Shannon...Why not use screws as they hold better and won't eventually work their way out with any movement such as the install of the drywall or other things?
Ron
+ron price I assume you are referring to the framing. You could use screws for this type of none structural framing if you want. Use the proper nails and there is no problem.
I’m questioning the cost of this.. 1” foam board is $1.10 per sqft, R14 roxul for 2X4 walls is $0.89 per sqft. Then add in blue tick tape at +$20 a roll, vapour barrier, tapcons, foam sealant, and of course time, it’s on par or could be even more than spray foam. I was told around $3 per sqft at 2-1/2” foam depth. Thoughts?
Yes I would agree the prices of foam board and insulation are steadily increasing and the cost of spray foam in some areas is getting more competitive. Sprayfoam may be a cheaper option if available.
Posters need to understand ANY sprays fam is a crap shoot and totally dependence t on installers knowledge, experience ,attention to detail and yes sobriety. You haven’t lived-and you will die sooner- until you’ve had a bad spray foam job off gassing for years (or permanent !) spoiled foam IS safe ! Can’t put a price on that
Could I just insulate in between the studs? Or is that the wrong way to do it?
I love watching your videos! I have a drain tile system in my basement, if I were to use foam boards on my walls, would I put it right on top of my drain tile? I’m worried that it will block water if it ever comes in to find its way to the drain tile system? Thank you for your help
Just stop the foam a 1/2" or so off the floor and dont seal the bottom.
@@HouseImprovements ok I will do that. Thank you!!
What is proper distance the wall is spaced from the concrete blocks that have a plastic sheeting installed with a gutter system for water drainage
usually an inch is fine.As long as moisture can still hit the drain.
Do you want a gap between the pink foam insulation and the framing?
a slight gap is pretty normal to allow for un straight and out of plumb concrete walls. Generally 1/2" is lots
@@HouseImprovements Thanks for the reply! I was actually asking if a air space between the foam and framing/batt insulation is recommended. My thought is then any moisture on the foam (if any) would not transfer to the batt
Great video, thanks. i would have worded spray as just being the more expensive route...cheers
Hey Shannon. Your videos are great. Do you have any notes for a stepped concrete wall (concrete and then wood above). The wood area already has fiberglass insulation. I want to insulate the concrete with rigid and then I want to frame a wall in front. Do you suggest any extra work or just making the wood fit around the rigid. There will be nothing load bearing in the wall.
Is the vapor barrier really required on this kind of retrofit? If you used CC foam wouldn't that be enough of a vapor barrier? Just wondering if that wouldn't almost trap moisture in the batts. Either way, good video!
In my area it is required. In some areas if you used 2" foam they may allow you to skip the interior air/vapour barrier. Always check with your local permit office
Thanks for video. Can I make barrier ( 1 inch. Or more) between poly vapor and drywall? (Air tunnel). Or it’s waste time and money?
Do you prefer to frame with a gap between the wall stud and the rigid foam or directly against the rigid foam?
No more than a 1" gap if you can do it that way.
I’m looking or wondering whether I should insulate a wall between my oil tank area and the living space of the basement. Does it help and what would I use?
try our forum.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I'm going to use 2" dow without tongue and groove. Should I leave a 1/2 " space in between sheets and use spray foam insulation in the 1/2 " space.Then seal with tape.😁
I would seal with sprayfoam, dont need tape.
@@HouseImprovements Thank you so much!
DO YOU RECOMMEND GLUEING DRYWALL DIRECTLY TO THE BASEMENT WALL, MY BASEMENT WALL DOES NOT GET WET OR HUMIDITY.
THANK YOU, GREAT VIDEOS.
I was wandering the resound that the poly plastic is used ? his it to prevent the hot hair in the basement to come in contact with the cold hair?
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for the great video. Just a quick question. If I am remodelling my basement in stages. Is there a temporary way to cover the rigid foam up after its been installed on the walls (re: fire code) so that its not exposed while I frame, and drywall.