How to develop kodak vision3 ECN-2 35mm film at home - IN DEPTH
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
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Checkout my develop kit on Amazon Affiliates: www.amazon.com/shop/filmfriends In this video I show you the extra steps you need to develop Kodak vision film and films with rimjet on them with the ECN-2 process. This process is not too much more to add to you flow so deff give this video a check out.
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If you need to reference the full length developing video you can find that here: • How to Develop Color F...
And for further film develop journey follow along with all these videos:
35mm Film Developing Video: • How To Develop Color 3...
120 Film Developing Video: • How To Develop Color 1...
Black and White Developing: • How to develop black a...
5 Hacks for Film Developing: • 5 hacks to develop fil...
Scanning Video: • How To Scan 35mm and 1...
DSLR scanning: • Valoi 360 Film Holder ...
Film Lab Conversion Software: • Film Lab App Review an...
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0:00 Background
1:06 Intro
2:45 My Kit
4:27 Load film
7:00 Prebath
9:14 Baking soda
10:00 Develop with c41
11:24 Last steps
#developingfilm #howtodevelopfilm #ecn-2
The remjet is a carbon powder mixed with a liquid adhesive which is then coated on the back of the film. The prebath is a simple alkali solution, as the adhesive dissolves in any alkali solution. His plan to wipe any residual remjet off the processed film after washing and a final photoflo bath, using photoflo which is no alkali is not very productive. The better plan would be to use a microfiber cloth soaked in pre-bath or baking soda solution to wipe down the film after fixing and a quick wash just to loose the surface fixer solution, After wiping off the last of the remjet, do the usual wash then photoflo and hang to dry. This uses a more effective solution for the final remjet wash, then washes the alkali out of the emulsion along with the embedded fixer.
Awesome! thats super helpfuL!
dude I love your videos the amount of professionalism I see in your vids is amazing love the film content keep it up
Thank you so so much! I really appreciate your support!!!
Great and helpful as always!
Thank you so so much!
Thanks so much for your videos you taught me how to develop film and that’s so cool
Absolutely! I’m glad I could help!
Great info! Thanks for making this.
Of course!!
So useful.
Glad I could help!
Thank you. 👌
No problem!
Thank you for this! about to start bulk loading and developing cine film, so this couldn’t have come at a better time. i found a shop on etsy that sells 1L kits of ecn-2 chems, so i’m planning on trying that first i think… sounds like temp control will be a little different, more important than even with c41.
it’s strange to me that c41 and ecn-2 chems both supposedly work. i’ll definitely have to try both and compare results!
I didn’t find any issues with temp control tbh.
I wanna bulk load really bad. I have a few more rolls I purchased before I make the decision to do it, but after these rolls it really does a great job! I love these shots
That’s an amazing deal! I got a hand roller thing for next to nothing in a box of old cameras. I’m dying to do it myself if I can get a can of it
Not strange at all. I compound my own C-41 developer, and the formula for ECN-2 developer is on-line. There are chemical differences, but those are minor. The big difference is in the film. Color in either film if created from dyes in the emulsion, and those dyes are different. The color dyes in the movie film are matched to the dyes in the positive film used to print movies. The dyes in C-41 film are matched to the dyes in color printing paper (RA-4). The considerable power of scanning and computer image processing largely neutralizes thos differences. There are a couple for YT videos trying to compare positive image (scanned) difference between film processed in C-41 and ECN-2. Unhappily, those are done under such uncontrolled circumstances that whatever the results look like, you cannot draw any valid comparisons.
Your experience has helped me right along with my developing my film, and do you have your preferences on brands of film that you work with?
Im a kodak kinda guy!
wonderful video as always will. Regarding the ECN2 chemicals, for how long can they be re-used? Especially the developer/fix/bleach? Thanks
I am not 100% sure on how long, I would think it is much longer than actual developing chemicals, (the one i used in this was over a year old)
Hello. Nice tutorial bro. 🙏🏻. I just want to ask if you have any idea if the kodak vision3 35mm 200t #5213 can use for still photography? Thank you
Yeah you can!
with bulk loaded film do you know if you can do this before exposing the film to be able to develop the film normally at a lab?
if you can remove the rimjet?
Can you clarify the pouring out/replenishing part? Is that not pouring remjet back into the original prebath?
yeah it will pour some back into the bath. i cant remember it all off the top, it lays it out on the side of that bottle in detail
Thanks for making this video! Do you think after removing the remjet using baking soda and then using Cinestill Cs41 kit for developing will contaminate the C41 developer in anyway ?
I potentially could contaminate it, but I nave never seems any I’ll effects. Really shake the crap out of and out more banking sodas than you think. Then rinse it very very well.
@@film_friends there is no need to to shake either PB-2 Prebath, or Baking Soda solution. Alkalinity is key. High pH solves the binder of the remjet and makes it soluble. After the prebath, rinse once, then fill up the tank to about half of its volume with water. Then vigorously shake. Rinse and repeat. This will almost completely remove any residual remjet. After rinsing, reimmerse in PB to solve any remjet residue that might have stuck on the emulsion side, and rinse once. Then develop.
What is your opinion in cross-processing movie film in C-41 instead of ECN-2? I have heard very different opinions ranging from that developing in C-41 gets better results for printing to C-type, to other opinions saying that you should use only ECN-2 chemistry because a strong color cast due to wrong color developer in C-41. What is your experience in this matter? Do you experience any color casts you can correct only with a computer after scanning (instead of printing directly to RA-4 paper in a darkroom)?
I havnt done specific movie film aside from Kodak vision film. But the c41 chemicals look great on this stock. I didn’t run into any color casting. And you can deff fix things with skill in editing. A lot of the film labs for movie film will scan LOG for you any ways so you can color it how you want it
@@randallstewart1224 I agree with you. I would not use Vision3 for printing RA-4, as the systems are incompatible. Especially C-41 processed film seems to have major crossover problems - magenta pavement with green skies. My opinion about CineStill in general is very bad - they are charging premium prices for substandard products. This is true both in their films and chemistry. The new generation of hobbyists, what I don't belong to, tend to do very sloppy processing they correct with hard photoshopping. I was just interested to knowing what this original poster thought.
Hi. What if the photo flo is not available...any thing i can use other than that...
I have heard a dash of dishsoap works
Hello, just found your video, I really look notes on the remjet removal section.
I'm confused a bit, however....video title says ECN-2 development, but it appears you are using C-41 chemicals instead of ECN-2 chemicals....?
ECN-2 is the first chemical to remove rimjet. Then it is normal c41 after. You can buy a bottle of ecn-2 for the first step
@@film_friends Err...I was under the impression that ECN-2 is an entirely different chemical process, that doing Vision 3 film with C-41 is basically cross processing.
ECN-2 is with different chemicals and gives a more 'log' like look so that you can do color grading more to it...this due to it being a motion picture film.
I've been watching a lot of videos on this...
An example is here:
czcams.com/video/aevSG22Q2Bc/video.html
The remjet removal is a part of the process, but as I understand it, it is not what makes the process ECN-2...the actual developing chemicals are all somewhat different than C-41 too.
Again, I realize I'm still learning, but I'm pretty sure about this from what I've researched so far.
See this one too please:
czcams.com/video/rQmD1DzlnXA/video.html
@@chilecayenne sounds like you have dove further into it. The log look is going to come from your scan really I would say
Hello, if i don't remove the remjet and remove it after developing will it harm the chemistry and the developing?
the rimjet will cause issues with your developing for sure. and yes it will get into your chemicals.
@@film_friends some years ago I had tetenal c41 kit chemistry and i didn't had any problems, thr cs41 sinestill gave me totally blank film after i had developed 12 non remjet film that came out very good
Yes and No. (That's helpful!) The problem from processing remjet film in C-41 is just that the remjet material tends to delaminate and literally melt off the film. It is a carbon black, like very fine graphite, suspended in an adhesive attached to the back of the film base. The developer is alkaline, which will start dissolving the remjet layer. It is chemically inert, so it will not chemically damage the developer or other C-41 solutions. However, the remjet will come off as bits of black carbon goo. When such film is put through automatic a C-41 processing machine, that goo will foul up the machinery, so labs will not process that type of film in C-41. If processed at home in a tank, you have a similar problem, but you can clean up the chemicals by filtering them to remove the goo in solution and wash out the tank, You may still have problems removing the goo from your processed film. Overall, it makes more sense to first remove the remjet layer before processing, rather than have to clean it out of all the solutions and equipment after each use.
I wonder if there will ever be a 120 ECN-2 film
There is! it is imax film in 65mm and there are a few people who hand roll it. I think you can buy them on ebay
why the hell am i loading the film in the reel inside the darkbag... this is so much simpler. although you could get an extra frame from that first shot but this is just much faster and simpler
So much simpler
Hey Will. Have you ever tried 110 film? I got my hands on a Pentax auto 110 but don’t know how to go about it 😆. It looks like a toy and I don’t have the $$ to experiment with it. My film lab doesn’t develop 110 so the cost is going to be crazy. I normally scan my own film but don’t think I can do it with 110? Just a though for a video 😁
I have a few I havnt taken for a spin yet. 8 wanna try it out. The prob is the developing line you said! You can modify a film reel to dev at home then use a flat bed scanner to scan it right on the flat bed. I am gonna do a video soon on it!
@@film_friends Oo I’m excited. I have a lab box and don’t want to be modifying it 😅. So I might just have to pay
Hahaha yeah prob!
@@anatorres2513 The mechanical specifics of the LabBox limit it to 35mm or 120/220 film sizes. Removing the 110 film from a 110 cartridge and loading into the LB seems impossble. I doubt there is any practical way to modify it to other film sizes. On the other hand, 110 film width is the same as 16mm, and it should be possible to find old 16mm reels on eBay, particularly steel reels, which would fit in appropriate film tanks, also commonly available. There is a YT video out there which shows how to cut a Paterson reel to hold 16mm/110 film.
The first frames are a little too close to comfort with your pre-reeling. Just as easy to do it in the bag as it is outside.
Yeah, really just showing for example! Havnt had an issue yet!