Mounting some new hardware on your boat? Watch this video to see a few tips on how to correctly install it and how to protect your boat from moisture intrusion.
Here is my variation on this good approach, to achieve maximum strength... [1] Use a countersink bit to cut through the top skin and vertically down through the balsa core to the bottom skin. [2] Use a Dremel 115 Carving Bit to remove further balsa core, expanding the cavity and roughening the inside surface of the skins. Then vacuum out all balsa dust. [3] If re-attaching hardware where there is an existing hole through the deck: either seal the lower skin with (a) tape from below or (b) a small plug of epoxy putty from above. [4] Use a large syringe to fill the oversized cavity with a mixture of epoxy resin and fine chopped glass fiber: some of the epoxy resin will be absorbed into the balsa, increasing the concentration of glass fiber in the hole (no need to drain the cavity and then add thickened epoxy); keep adding from the syringe until no more epoxy is absorbed. [5] On larger sailboats, where there will be a very strong side-load on the hardware & fasteners - reinforce the fiberglass top skin by epoxying a shaped and pre-drilled 1/4" G10 riser plate over the plugged cavities (the G10 riser will need to be painted with polyurethane for UV protection).
I followed these directions step by step and it worked perfectly. I used butyl tape cuz it lasts longer than poly sealant but otherwise exactly the same. This video was awesome, easily explained, step by step, concise and direct. Great job!
I love CZcams. We have all seen repair jobs that were done incorrectly. In this case if the hole was not filled with epoxy first, you could over time ruin your deck. Before CZcams that was probably the rule rather than the exception. For non-handy people such as myself, CZcams is a god send. Great video by the way. I'm installing a new traveller in a different location that the old one so this helpled a lot.
You need to centre the drill in the epoxy plug by using a small pilot drill or an auger or the bigger drill bit will wander across to the edge of the plug, and you'll end up with an off centre hole.
Instead of the 406, I'd use the 404 High Density Adhesive Filler. It's always better for hardware and worth the extra $$ (but ask around the dock. No one ever uses all of it.) I learned that you can use baking flour (the terrible Robin Hood type stuff everybody has that lasts forever). I've used Kruteuz Pancake Mix -- but for sea kayaks. Seems very strong but the forces are much less on a kayak. (and once it's saturated with epoxy it's inert. I've got 20 year old kayaks with this on it no problem.) I wouldn't over worry packing holes like this. A narrow stick would clear any bubbles and pack the hole. Another thing about movement. It's always better to install hardware that has two fasteners (as in the video) instead of one. One will work loose more quickly than two working together. And if your deck is a bit too weak. Build up an area larger than the hardware base with layers of glass top and underneath. Might not look good but it'll be strong. Whenever I apply patches several layers thick I never do them one at time, I stack them up on plastic (construction plastic is great) saturate them, rake off some of the excess. Apply some epoxy where it goes and then lay it on; roll it or use a plastic scraper to squeegee off the excess. (This is also great for patching a big gaping hole. 8 layers of 6 ounce glass is reasonably stiff. You'll still have to use a filler. By applying all the glass at once you've made it simple. Punch a hole in your boat? If you can keep the area dry for half an hour I can patch it up good enough to cross an ocean.) I don't know why so many CZcamsrs apply one layer of glass at a time.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1973 Cape Dory Typhoon that has a balsa core and this is exactly the type of instruction I was looking for. Since I'll be at home for the foreseeable future due to the corona pandemic, I will be spending sometime in my backyard replacing the 40+ year old hardware on my boat using your methods. Thanks again and stay well.
When I do it I drill first and then take a tool that has a 90 Degree bend on the end and remove additional core material the more the better and then fill with epoxy and redrill for hardware. More epoxy the stronger the area.
This is a great instructional YT, especially for a new boat owner like me. You could be even more effective if you provided names and brands and links of hardware and epoxy and such. Thank you.
If you know the thickness of the deck its a good idea to not drill the larger holes all the way. I don't know if it's my tape or boat but as the epoxy heats up the tape comes off. So the smaller hole reduces the amount of weight the tape needs to support
Good video but in my opinion a better way is to drill the correct size, then use a dremel to make the hole bigger only in the balsawood and then fill. In this way the epoxy 'plug' is completely locked between the two layers of polyester. And use Butyl tape is much easier I find.
I get the idea but i dont understand how you would make the interior of the whole larger. What dremel bit would you use? Sounds like more trouble than what its worth.
BTW Some spots on my boat the Balsa is already to soft to do this, i can keep pouring in epoxy. I've been thinking about using a piece of fibreglass tube (available in model airpane stores etc): dril the hole the size of the tube, epoxy the tube in place, cut the tube flush with the deck (inside and outside) and put the bolt through the tube.
Have you ever tried to under drill the final hole by a 1/16"? You will need a power driver to place the final bolt, but the tight fit will virtually guarantee zero water intrusion. It will also make placing the nuts much easier as the friction will prevent the bolt from turning as you tighten the nut.
Have you considered using butyl tape instead of Polyurethane sealant? In my experience butyl is a much more reliable seal, very flexible and easy to remove if ever required.
Actually no, I have never used butyl tape. But I'm very curious about it. I know the polyurethane can harden after time, and you're right, it's not fun to remove. I've used silicone and had good luck, but I don't like working with it. I'm adding a bowsprit pole fitting on the bow for an asymmetrical spinnaker pole mid-summer, so I'll give it a try! Thanks!
Butyl Tape definitely has its use, but for deck hardware, I use 3M 4200, as maybe one day it needs to come apart. I used to use 5200, then i learned the hard way that it is PERMANENT. BTW great video thanks. I have a Balsa core deck, and where I did do the epoxy fill in oversize holes, I hadn't thought about, a) 2 types of epoxy b) the taper step drill c) the countersink. So obvious now but well done. thank you
Glad you liked it! After the replacing the core material in our deck I decided to make it the new hardware as water tight as possible! I like the 4200 sealant as well. Thanks for watching.
I removed the old hardware and saw some slight surface imperfections from pulling the hardware up. What’s the best way to touch up scratches on the deck?
Good question and I think it's a much better approach. Sorry to just jump in on this topic. Fumed silica or caposil is generally used as a thickener. A somewhat liquidy mix of epoxy with glass balloons or phenolic bubbles would flow better and for 1/4" balsa, you could probably get away with using straight resin. I would also skip a few steps by marking the holes on the deck with the bolt size drill then drilling down to the bottom layer (but not through) with a larger bit and pouring in the epoxy mix, letting that kick off and finally drilling with the bolt size bit through the center and all the way through.
This is way too complicated for me, turning a 5 minute job into a chore. Just use a good sikaflex and be done with it. That resin will crack under load imo.
Here is my variation on this good approach, to achieve maximum strength...
[1] Use a countersink bit to cut through the top skin and vertically down through the balsa core to the bottom skin.
[2] Use a Dremel 115 Carving Bit to remove further balsa core, expanding the cavity and roughening the inside surface of the skins. Then vacuum out all balsa dust.
[3] If re-attaching hardware where there is an existing hole through the deck: either seal the lower skin with (a) tape from below or (b) a small plug of epoxy putty from above.
[4] Use a large syringe to fill the oversized cavity with a mixture of epoxy resin and fine chopped glass fiber: some of the epoxy resin will be absorbed into the balsa, increasing the concentration of glass fiber in the hole (no need to drain the cavity and then add thickened epoxy); keep adding from the syringe until no more epoxy is absorbed.
[5] On larger sailboats, where there will be a very strong side-load on the hardware & fasteners - reinforce the fiberglass top skin by epoxying a shaped and pre-drilled 1/4" G10 riser plate over the plugged cavities (the G10 riser will need to be painted with polyurethane for UV protection).
I followed these directions step by step and it worked perfectly. I used butyl tape cuz it lasts longer than poly sealant but otherwise exactly the same. This video was awesome, easily explained, step by step, concise and direct. Great job!
Butyl Tape is my prefernce. Informative video.
I love CZcams. We have all seen repair jobs that were done incorrectly. In this case if the hole was not filled with epoxy first, you could over time ruin your deck. Before CZcams that was probably the rule rather than the exception. For non-handy people such as myself, CZcams is a god send. Great video by the way. I'm installing a new traveller in a different location that the old one so this helpled a lot.
You need to centre the drill in the epoxy plug by using a small pilot drill or an auger or the bigger drill bit will wander across to the edge of the plug, and you'll end up with an off centre hole.
Excellent!!! I love learning the RIGHT way to do tasks. CZcams University for the win! Thanks for the well-produced step-by-step. Much appreciated!
One of the best videos I've ever seen on You-Tube. Thank you.
Instead of the 406, I'd use the 404 High Density Adhesive Filler. It's always better for hardware and worth the extra $$ (but ask around the dock. No one ever uses all of it.) I learned that you can use baking flour (the terrible Robin Hood type stuff everybody has that lasts forever). I've used Kruteuz Pancake Mix -- but for sea kayaks. Seems very strong but the forces are much less on a kayak. (and once it's saturated with epoxy it's inert. I've got 20 year old kayaks with this on it no problem.)
I wouldn't over worry packing holes like this. A narrow stick would clear any bubbles and pack the hole. Another thing about movement. It's always better to install hardware that has two fasteners (as in the video) instead of one. One will work loose more quickly than two working together. And if your deck is a bit too weak. Build up an area larger than the hardware base with layers of glass top and underneath. Might not look good but it'll be strong.
Whenever I apply patches several layers thick I never do them one at time, I stack them up on plastic (construction plastic is great) saturate them, rake off some of the excess. Apply some epoxy where it goes and then lay it on; roll it or use a plastic scraper to squeegee off the excess. (This is also great for patching a big gaping hole. 8 layers of 6 ounce glass is reasonably stiff. You'll still have to use a filler. By applying all the glass at once you've made it simple. Punch a hole in your boat? If you can keep the area dry for half an hour I can patch it up good enough to cross an ocean.) I don't know why so many CZcamsrs apply one layer of glass at a time.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1973 Cape Dory Typhoon that has a balsa core and this is exactly the type of instruction I was looking for. Since I'll be at home for the foreseeable future due to the corona pandemic, I will be spending sometime in my backyard replacing the 40+ year old hardware on my boat using your methods. Thanks again and stay well.
Wow.. I had no need for a waterproof installation on my Harken cleats but the video was so thorough I watched it anyway. Good job
Thanks for the good video. And cheers with New Glarus beer!
World needs more "Boat Notes" - Videos!!!
We are working on some new ones! Stay tuned!
Interesting technique. Like the look of those cleats too. Thank you.
Great video, thanks. BTW, I saw that Spotted Cow…On Wisconsin!
When I do it I drill first and then take a tool that has a 90 Degree bend on the end and remove additional core material the more the better and then fill with epoxy and redrill for hardware. More epoxy the stronger the area.
What a great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it and sharing.
This is a great instructional YT, especially for a new boat owner like me. You could be even more effective if you provided names and brands and links of hardware and epoxy and such. Thank you.
If you know the thickness of the deck its a good idea to not drill the larger holes all the way. I don't know if it's my tape or boat but as the epoxy heats up the tape comes off. So the smaller hole reduces the amount of weight the tape needs to support
Good video but in my opinion a better way is to drill the correct size, then use a dremel to make the hole bigger only in the balsawood and then fill. In this way the epoxy 'plug' is completely locked between the two layers of polyester. And use Butyl tape is much easier I find.
I get the idea but i dont understand how you would make the interior of the whole larger. What dremel bit would you use? Sounds like more trouble than what its worth.
@@TheDcrocks1 I use the bit with the little grinding ball on top, not sure of the name. Than just wiggle the dremel around in the hole.
BTW Some spots on my boat the Balsa is already to soft to do this, i can keep pouring in epoxy. I've been thinking about using a piece of fibreglass tube (available in model airpane stores etc): dril the hole the size of the tube, epoxy the tube in place, cut the tube flush with the deck (inside and outside) and put the bolt through the tube.
@@bvandijk Fibreglass tent pole tubing would work too. You can get various sizes. 👍
I agree, this is the best i have seen, i mean you have added so much life to the entire process! thanks
Have you ever tried to under drill the final hole by a 1/16"? You will need a power driver to place the final bolt, but the tight fit will virtually guarantee zero water intrusion. It will also make placing the nuts much easier as the friction will prevent the bolt from turning as you tighten the nut.
Chiaro, preciso, corretto. Semplicemente perfetto. Grazie!
Good video, overall and butyl rubber would be a much better choice for a sealant.
Very well done, love your animations and diagrams. Subscribed.
Welcome aboard!
Great step by step video
Thanks!
Perfect demonstration. Thanks a lot
Excellent video. Thanks.
Excellent video. Subscribed.
Thank you, this was a great video.
Brilliant !,
Great informative video thanks for sharing
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Good video. Thanks!
Have you considered using butyl tape instead of Polyurethane sealant? In my experience butyl is a much more reliable seal, very flexible and easy to remove if ever required.
Actually no, I have never used butyl tape. But I'm very curious about it. I know the polyurethane can harden after time, and you're right, it's not fun to remove. I've used silicone and had good luck, but I don't like working with it. I'm adding a bowsprit pole fitting on the bow for an asymmetrical spinnaker pole mid-summer, so I'll give it a try! Thanks!
Good recourse for butyl use here. www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
Thanks!
Butyl Tape definitely has its use, but for deck hardware, I use 3M 4200, as maybe one day it needs to come apart. I used to use 5200, then i learned the hard way that it is PERMANENT.
BTW great video thanks. I have a Balsa core deck, and where I did do the epoxy fill in oversize holes, I hadn't thought about, a) 2 types of epoxy b) the taper step drill c) the countersink.
So obvious now but well done.
thank you
Glad you liked it! After the replacing the core material in our deck I decided to make it the new hardware as water tight as possible! I like the 4200 sealant as well. Thanks for watching.
Great vid
Spot on
great idea i will do this
Great idea
Hello, where can found a book with these ilustrations? are so good. Congratulations
nice idea
Would you please inform me about the sealant used in this application?
I removed the old hardware and saw some slight surface imperfections from pulling the hardware up. What’s the best way to touch up scratches on the deck?
How heavy duty are these I would like to know how much weight these could hold
Why would you not use the solid epoxy that was filling the hole.I do.
I wanted to make sure the epoxy didn’t soak through the tape and drip inside. Otherwise, I’m sure epoxy without thickener would be fine. Thanks!
good 👏👏👏👏👏🇧🇷💯
Can you use micro glass balloons instead of silica?
Good question and I think it's a much better approach. Sorry to just jump in on this topic.
Fumed silica or caposil is generally used as a thickener. A somewhat liquidy mix of epoxy with glass balloons or phenolic bubbles would flow better and for 1/4" balsa, you could probably get away with using straight resin. I would also skip a few steps by marking the holes on the deck with the bolt size drill then drilling down to the bottom layer (but not through) with a larger bit and pouring in the epoxy mix, letting that kick off and finally drilling with the bolt size bit through the center and all the way through.
This is way too complicated for me, turning a 5 minute job into a chore. Just use a good sikaflex and be done with it. That resin will crack under load imo.