Installing RV Fridge Vent Fans from Titan - Improved Refrigerator Operation in Hot Weather
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2021
- Titan RV Fridge Fan Update - DIY Power Mod using a DROK DC-DC Buck Converter instead of Batteries - • Titan RV Fridge Fan Up...
See Titan RV Roof Vent Fan Installation - • Installing Remote Cont...
In this video, I install the latest generation of Titan RV fridge vent fans. I have been using earlier versions, and they have performed well. I show how I mechanically attach the new fans plus the 12V electrical hookup. Also included are demos of the fans in action.
Pricing is a little on the high side, but I can't fault the quality and quietness of the fans. The fans also include controller modules with manual and auto modes. Some even have a timer function.
See my review update video clip for my original Titan Fans - • Updates on 20 of my RV...
(Fair Disclosure: I received the Titan fans free of charge. However, I'm not an affiliate for Titan, and I received no monetary compensation for the video - Ray)
Titan Website - www.titan-cd.com/en/index.html
Product Links on Amazon:
Fridge Vent Fan TTC-SC22 Series - amzn.to/3i7eopi
Fridge Vent Fan TTC-SC20 Series - amzn.to/3hRxs9U
Roof Vent Fan TTC-SC21/V3 - amzn.to/2VjtOxR
Small Inside Fridge Fan TTC-SC28 - amzn.to/3e4IkQS
Note: Get 5% off the Titan Fan Amazon purchase using promo code 05LoveYourRV (Expires August 21st, 2021)
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See my *review update* video clip for my original Titan Fans - czcams.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/video.html
Titan Roof Vent Fan Installation Video - czcams.com/video/Mk6NIa5odkI/video.html
Titan RV Fridge Fan Update - DIY Power Mod using a DROK DC-DC Buck Converter instead of Batteries - czcams.com/video/2IPPoaDdcnQ/video.html
Ahh, thank You very, blog page I was looking for this first video. I am back to Canada too, parking lot, surfing. One fan stopped and I hate the other. I should have resolved this long ago!! Cheers
These work great. I used a wireless sensor to monitor the temperature of the freezer. Using the fan allowed the freezer to get to 32 degrees about 40% faster than not using the fans.
I don't understand why the manufacturers know this stuff but leave it up to us to figure out and make the modifications. Makes me CRAZY. Thanks again, Ray. Off to find part 2 and 3 now.
They got their money. That’s all they care about.
I did this two years ago-same fans. Still going strong, working automatically, nearly silent. I mounted mine with small zip ties. So easy. I mounted it to the top vent, blowing out. Air flow across the back of the fridge is strong
Great video Ray! Great that you do a bench test first before installing. Also great that you have real world experience and can relay your results in temps over 100 degrees.
Great video Ray.
Very timely post. Been looking to install a couple fans on my fridge. These Titan fans are probably some of the best out there with the auto temp controller. I only hesitate due to the price. There are much cheaper options available but without the nifty controller. I like that you test drove these for several years with no issues. I also appreciate the fact they are not manufacturer in Chyna. Guess I'll bite the bullet, it will only hurt for a minute when I'm paying the card off. Thanks Ray.
Another great video Ray! I installed a similar setup in my RV. It’s makes a big difference, especially the internal fans. I live in SW Florida and I can keep my fridge in the mid to lower settings without issues. I use the ice cream test in order to track how well it’s cooling. Beers being cold is another critical measurement 😎
Thanks, Ray! I installed the Titan fans in my roof vent a couple of years ago after seeing your first video. I also installed the Deluxe Frost Guard fans on the cooling fins on the inside of the fridge. In 95 degree temps with high humidity I run my fridge on the middle setting (3 out of 5) with no issues. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos! Cheers!
Good to hear, Cheers, Ray
I installed some computer fans on the roof vent and it has helped SOO much! I wish I created a video but it was really hot and I was limited on time. Hard to keep a CZcams channel going when I have a mentality like that.
Thank you ray i'm installing mine today, Naturally giving you plenty of shoutouts
Very helpful and detailed video. Thank you very much.
Hi Ray. Great video. I needed that last week when it hit 37c. I think I'll install one.
I got my self a ferrule crimper & use that for all my push in & screw down connectors. Simplifies & makes a more secure connections. Multiple wires can be in one ferrule
Thanks Ray!
Yes, fans do really help! - While camping in VA a couple of years ago, the temp reached 104F. - I put our 24" floor fan blowing into the fridge inlet, and cranked 'er up.
The fridge went from barely able to cool to safe limits, to very cold in almost no time.
I would consider this a great upgrade! - I also installed stainless "bug screens" into the fridge inlet louvers.
The Titan RV fridge vent fans are awesome. My stock fridge fan failed and unfortunately, it is buried in the bowels of the unit requiring it to be fully removed to access in order to replace.
I got the Titan unit and installed it in the upper (exhaust) vent. I thought that I might need to add a Titan into the bottom vent (intake), but it made the unit work better than before; the temperature runs a few degrees lower.
What an amazing review! ☺ Greetings from an Englishman 🇬🇧!
Hey, thanks!
@@LoveYourRV I'm hoping to aquire my next RV motorhome and I cannot wait!! ☺
Thanks Ray. I really needed that information. Almost everyone is the r v park. Has issues with their frig.
Thanks.
You're welcome
❤ Ray, I have seen people mount the smaller fans on the inside of there 12 v & gas fridge.
They say it is to give more even temperature throughout the fridge.
👍👍
I've seen some fans that mount on the inside fins and get wired into the fridge light power. It will be interesting if the little Titan fridge fan they have can circulate enough air to stop the fins from frosting up. I find that's a problem here on the humid coast in the summer. Not in the dry desert though, never get frost build up there. :) Guess its got to do with the air that comes in when the door is opened.
@@LoveYourRV 🙈 I love it when people stand infront of the fridge looking in like it's a movie about to start. Then wonder why all the ice🤪
Keep cool my friend.👍👍
I think the lithium batteries power is not affected by the cold as much as normal lead acid energizers would be. Great video
I installed Titans about 2 years ago. My fridge is in the slide so it has a bottom and top vent. I chose to place the fans in the top vent so that they're pulling rising warm air from the bottom and out the top vent and not blocking access to the lower components of the fridge like the LP supply lines, the jet, igniter, etc. Seems to work OK.
It’s the last thing I also tried before I rip out the dometic and get a 12v fridge from nova Kool fridge
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, thanks
104 * the Beer stayed cold 🥶, thank Goodness 😅!
I used several PC fans in my TT for years if you have the ability to wire them in and mount then safely you will save a lot of $$$$$$ rv products are usually marked up drastically just because of the market. You can use solar panels to power them and not use your 12v system or if you have a little programing knowledge you can use a raspberry pi to run all of them.
My original OEM Dometic fridge had very noisy OEM fan that used to drive me crazy! I added a quiet computer case fan from Antec www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-my-noisy-dometic-dm2652-rv-fridge-fan/ It was a great mod. I utilized the existing thermocouple relay. Worked well for years and quieted the fan noise substantially . Unfortunately that fridge bit the dust when the cooling pipe failed and leaked one day. www.loveyourrv.com/fridge-meltdown-extended-rv-warranty-s/ Luckily I had an extended warranty and got a brand new Dometic fridge no charge. Funny enough the new fridge had no fan and did a much better job of cooling. Makes me think they had a design issue. I notice the piping was quite different even thought he model number was exactly the same. Cheers, Ray
I am second ! Better late than never ! Of course the first person to comment was the creator.
Hey ray how’s it going I did the fan mod similar to yours I put that valterra portable fan in the fridge as well as one pointing at the cooling fins also one on the outside vent it does seem to make a difference in cooling
Looking great Ray! Sure enjoy your videos. Has Anne launched her boat this summer? Jim in Winnipeg.
No, she is actually selling it hoping to strike while the market is hot and maybe buy a bigger boat next year. She is finding the little boat too bouncy these days. We are actually thinking maybe in a few years of getting a liveaboard boat for the summer months. :)
Great video Ray! I noticed you don't have bug screens on you fridge vents. How do you keep mud dobber wasps from setting up shop in your fridge area? Around here in KY they love the smell of propane.
So far 10 years and never had a problem with insects nesting in the RV fridge, water heater, or furnace other than a few spiders here and there. Guess it must be the areas we camping in or maybe the fact we live in the RV.
Good video, as always. If you were going to install just one fan, would you put it in roof vent or the side fridge vent? Thanks
Thanks, I've read anecdotally that the roof fan placement draws more air but the lower vent is a much easier install. Personally I think either should do the job, the are inside the back isn't very large so doesn't take much to get the flow you just want to help out the natural chimney effect and clear out the hot air.
Hi Ray,
I know this is an old post but I am beginning to get our 2002 Carriage Cameo out of moth balls for the camping season here in Colorado. As your fridge ages have you considered a 12 volt compressor system?
I changed our fridge mechanism from absorption to 12 volt compressor several years ago as old fridge was barely keeping up even with multiple fans in and out. The Dutchaire 12 volt system fits the current fridge box just replaces old system and cools way faster and uses only about 8amps DC with typically 50% duty cycle and is several hundred dollars less expensive than the prebuilt 12 volt replacement compressor fridges on the market. They have updated their unit to be more self contained and not use the old control boards and standby DC current for gas solenoids. One advantage of prebuilt is typically larger fridges if you and Ann could use more space, but it does exhaust heat from fridge underneath into the rig. Any compressor fridge will mean less concern with being level at campground and no worry of running propane when traveling.
Not likely to replace with compressor type unless this gas/electric one packs it in. Then, I may consider one if the gas/ electric is too expensive. We do a lot of off-grid camping, so nice to have the gas fridge to save on power usage. I already have a Starlink dish that draws quite a bit, and I do carry a portable 50L 12V fridge/freezer if needed. I have tons of solar power if it's summer, but in the winter, when I do most of my off-grid camping, the sun hours are very short or we are under trees, so I think adding a 12V fridge would mean more generator run time. My gas fridge works pretty well; ice cream stays nice and hard, and the fridge stays cool. Also, silent operation is nice vs. compressors. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV
Makes sense, just surprised it is still going when used full time. When you restock fridge does it take a while to recover? If so the compressor style only take 2 hours from room temp to proper temp. Our compressor is all but silent with any type of background noise from TV, radio, streaming or vents/air conditioner. With no background noise it is only a slight hum at most. If you stick with absorption style the Dutchaire people do make a more robust absorption replacement that has good warranty. We only camp in summer time so power has not been an issue - I am surprised with all your different panels and multiple batteries/solar generators that another 100 amps of usage per day would be a problem. How far do you typically take your main batteries down to now?
Since we are full-time, the fridge is always on, so it stays cold. I don't really need to worry about the start-up time to cold. For long trips to the grocery store, I use my 12V fridge in the truck to keep the food cold on the way back to the camper so cold food goes in. When we travel long distances or in hot weather, the fridge stays powered by the solar or truck alternator via a DC-DC converter.
Camped under trees in BC during the spring and fall, solar is very limited due to the shading. In the mid-winter in the southwest desert, the solar day is only about 6 - 8 hours, and due to the low angle, the sun's power is much weaker, and sometimes there is cloud and rain even in the desert. Also, with the sun setting so early, we spend more time indoors using Starlink for watching TV or on computers, using lights and the furnace fan on cold desert nights. So our power use goes way up when our power harvest is at the lowest of the year. I don't usually let my main battery bank fall below 30%, but I will often fully drain my extra batteries and power stations before resorting to the gas generator.
Recently I've been building a truck toolbox power station that will have 400Ah of lithium and be able to be charged via a 40 amp DC-DC converter. So that should help in the real lean sun times as it can charge while using the truck when touring around, dumping waste, getting fresh water, or grocery getting, etc.
Great video I was just looking at getting this fan for my fridge. Can you explain more how to wire it into the 12 volt please. Also where exactly did you install the tip of the temperature?
You can see more about the hookup in my original install video - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-titan-rv-fridge-and-roof-vent-cooling-fans/ I installed the sensor about 8-10 inches inside the opening. Makes the fans come on when it gets above 70F in there. Cheers, Ray
I have a house fridge with coils on the side that always make the food on the shelf next to it not last as long. Where would I put a fan for this type of scenario?
Thanks Ray, I have been toying with doing this and was going to do it with computer fans but I really like the auto feature. By any chance is the temperature adjustable ?
You can adjust the temps it turns on at by where you place the temp sensor in the fridge stack. Some people put it right beside the fridge cooling fins. I usually place it a little ways away from them.
Great video, I have a couple of questions. Do these fans interfere with the LP gas running the fridge? Do you need fans at the top or could you just put them at the bottom? Could you run the 12-volt power up the backside of the fridge in the space?
Thanks. I had no problem boondocking using LP gas and the fans. I've been in big wind storms boondocking and never had an issue with the fridge flame blowing out. It has a metal shield around it. The water heater sometimes but never the fridge.
One set of fans should do the trick I'd imagine. I mainly installed both to be able to test them both out long term. Yes, in fact, I have the 12V line running up the back to my WiFi booster switch and that is where I spice in for power for the rooftop fans. Cheers, Ray
Ray,
Thanks for another highly informative video.🙋♂️
What is the white corrugated tubing for?
You bet, no problem. It's the fridge drain tube attached to a little tray inside the fridge. When ice or frost melts off the metal fins it is captured in a tray and the tray empties into the drain hose. The hose is looped to form a P-Trap keeping warm outside air from getting into the fridge. There is also a small insect screen on the end. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV
Great. Thanks for the reply.🙋♂️
As this is your second time, do haven't had any issue after putting the fridge vent cover over those fans. I would think the fans would need a bit more space to be efficient
Seems to work well, and I notice a definite difference in fridge cooling on hot days when I turn them on. All it does is aid the vent stack's natural chimney effect by pulling a little more air up. The airflow isn't dramatic but enough to evacuate the warm air from behind the fridge, so it stays closer to ambient outside temp in there. But, you could pull the fridge out and mount them lower closer to the cooling fins if you like. I have another set pulling air in from below as well so didn't feel the need. Ice cream is staying hard. :)
Ray, (just curious) when you install the roof cover on the fridge chimney, does it impact the air flow and performance of the upper fans? It would be nice if the roof cover could be engineered to allow for better air flow AND be waterproof too....in my opinion.
Seems to work well, guess it is what it is, seems to be the most common roof vent. I imagine they designed the curve it to let the air out the sides at the highest rate. Must be a trade off but last thing you'd want is water intrusion into the fridge vent area
My RV doesn't have a roof exhaust for the fridge. It has a lower and upper vent on the side wall. Attaching the lower air intake fans would be the same as what you did but would I install the upper fans to the inside of the upper vent and just make sure it's moving the air out of the upper vent?
Yes, that would work the same. Most people can get away with just one set of fans either upper or lower. I just put them in both places so I can do a long term test of the fans. Cheers, Ray
Hey Ray I have a question about installing vent fans...where you mounted the brackets...on my exhaust stack, the tops are splayed out about 30 degrees...were yours like that? Did those draw in or are yours straight up and down? I'm thinking I'll have to peel back the entire bug screen to grab material that's 90 degrees to the mtg bracket
I just bent the metal brackets slightly and attached to the plastic sides if the vent. The plastic pulls in a bit but doesn't matter. Here is a picture - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Fridge-Roof-Vent-Fan.jpg
Get rid of the absorption fridge altogether! Install a 12v DC compressor fridge and get more interior space plus very low current draw.
That's decent advice for people starting out or looking to replace a dead fridge who have a good amount wattage of solar and battery capacity but this absorption is paid for and works quite well. When boondocking using LP Gas it has very little amperage draw (maybe 1A at most) When it packs it in I will consider a 12V but I don't really see a reason to spend the money at this point in time when I have a good working fridge. Cheers Ray
Hello Ray, I have 2 separate very noisy fans on the side of the trailer- back of the fridge. could I separate those 2 Titan fans to fit in the hole shape made to receive the fans? They turn on and off so I believe they are hooked up to a thermister located up by the fins. What is the relationship between the Titan Fans that have their own sensor and the thermistor I have? Not sure I understand the whole concept of my thermistor either. I have difficulty finding regular good CFM nonnoisy fas, there is such a turnover on the regular ones. Plus, they don't last that long.
On my old fridge I replaced its noisy fan. Here is the video so you can see how the thermistor is wired www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-my-noisy-dometic-dm2652-rv-fridge-fan/
Hi, where did you get the white wire plates in the inside the cabinets around the 15:55 time in the video.
They came with Wingard Wi-Fi Booster that I have tested in the past - amzn.to/3hzG9Xi
My fridge is in a slide out. Would you recommend fans on the lower grate bringing air in and fans on the upper grate to pull air back out or just a set on the lower or upper grate?
One set on either vent will work, two is likely better but may not be worth the extra expense. Basically the two vents have a natural air flow as the hot air created by the fridge cooling fins inside the cavity heat up and hot air rises as it rises cooler air is draw into the lower vent and a chimney effect is created. The fans work to enhance that effect. They can really help out a slide based fridge because its natural chimney effect isn't a good as a roof top vent. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Thanks Ray. I'll start with a set of fans on the lower grate and if I think later on I need another set, I can add them. I hope you're enjoying your summer!
Hi Ray, the fans are primarily for use when the fridge is in propane mode, when lots of heat is generated?
The RV refrigerator wouldn’t need cooling if running off 120 volt AC would it?
Actually the electric element puts our a fair bit of heat as well 325 watts. So very comparable to the small LP gas flame. Basically the fridge works by heating the ammonia gas in the a boiler and it expands and circulates around and condenses to provide the cooling for the fridge.
Yes, it needs the fans when in 12V mode too, most of the time
Hi Ray, I see on the bottom fan you mounted the fan to blow into the unit. Is the top fan mounted the same way.
The bottom fans draw cool air in and the top fans draw the warm air out. So the top fans are set to blow air out not in. This enhances the nature chimney effect in the fridge's cooling stack. czcams.com/video/bzKF7NgMDHw/video.html Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV got it. Thanks for the reply
I wonder how hard it would be to build a little frame to mount those fans to point up the wall cavity instead of on the back of the vent cover. Some 1/2”*1/8” strap iron would make a little table like support where screws or rivets could attach the fans.
Its a bit crowded at the bottom area but there is a space about mid way up the fridge where the OEM sometimes mounts a fan. My previous Dometic had one mounted there and I swapped it out for a computer case fan. Only problem is the fridge pretty well needs to be pulled out to mount it - www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-my-noisy-dometic-dm2652-rv-fridge-fan/ Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I am curious about a follow up on these fans when they are set up fully automatic on the vent cover. Does the airflow when driving cause any damage if they are on? Or is the flow indirect enough that it doesn’t try to spin them excessively or backwards?
I think its indirect enough, the flow when driving is sideways down the vehicle past the vents. If there was a ton on air flow into the fridge vent people wouldn't be able to drive with the fridge on, the pilot light would always be blowing out. I don't personally drive with propane on but lots do to run the fridge. I towed thousands of miles over the last 3 years with the previous fans and no damage.
Could you run both sets of fans on one controller/temp sensor to simplfy things?
Sorry, not sure about whether the controller can handle that. You could give Titan an email - www.titan-cd.com/en/page/contact-info.html
Would you have to set both controls back to auto if you lose 12v power?
Yes, if you disconnected the 12V battery on the RV for some reason you'd have to turn the fan controllers back on
At 17:43 you show the controller. How did you run the wiring? I can't figure out how to run the wiring inside without cutting a big hole to shove the controller body through. Did you disassemble the controller and remove the wiring to fish it through somewhere?
There wasn't any need for me to fish the controller body through anywhere. The wires unplug from the fan I had existing wire holes from a WiFi booster that I could use to run the wires through the wall into the fridge vent stack area. Here was the previous video with the older controller. czcams.com/video/MkYRJbDqkug/video.html
@@LoveYourRV Awesome. Of course! The wires at the fan end disconnect! I’m a dummy. That said, I’ll still have to drill holes big enough to run the little connectors through. Thanks for the insight!
Would be nice to see how it is done as opposed to the finished product
Sorry I didn't think it was too complex, so figured people would be bored watching me. Cheers, Ray
I’ve look on your Amazon and man these seem very expensive for a little 12 v fan.
You could by a pair of super quiet computer case fans for about 15 bucks each though they would lack the IP55 rating and DIY a mount and add 70F thermostat relay for about 10 bucks but it would be one speed and not 6, So you could build somewhat similar for around 45 bucks. Like anything a doable DIY solution with free labor is less than a turn key solution. Cheers, Ray
Are you a fan of the Titan vent fans?
I'll see myself out.
czcams.com/video/9CdVTCDdEwI/video.html
those are computer fans.. you can buy computer fans with a temp sensor wire. Same with getting a sensor probe that you can plug in. It's all off the shelf items. All titan did was bundle it up for you in a neat package and a markup.
That's true, but many RVers don't have the DIY mechanical and electrical ability and knowledge to wire up things DIY. People will pay a premium for a turn-key tested solution that works and lasts. They are also IP55 rated fans so a little different than the run-of-the-mill computer fans on the market. You could build somewhat similar for around 45 bucks I figure,, cheaper even if you want to take a chance on poor quality. Like anything, a doable DIY solution with free labor is always less than a turn-key solution that has to pay to provide a warranty and spend on marketing costs. If you can do it cheaper, looks like there is a good opportunity for you to make some easy money! ;) Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV absolutely and having that solution is cheaper at times than piece mealing it together yourself.
I installed the 120mm kit up top at the roof vent cap and when I run the fan the fridge actually gets warmer. Any ideas? I’m wondering if it’s actually pulling fresh air from around the fans when it’s on instead of pulling warm air out of the cavity. Seems crazy but I don’t know what else would cause this. I have verified that the fans are blowing out.
That does seem strange. If it the air is being blown out it should create a vacuum effect and draw cooler air in from the lower fridge vent. I wonder if there is some type of blockage in the stack, like for example insulation that has fallen in. Just a guess.
@@LoveYourRV good thoughts. I’m going to remove the vent cap and look closely for those types of blockages. I’ve read some of the install specs and my takeaway is the fridge needs to be installed very tightly with little to no gaps anywhere for heat to collect but airflow over the upper fins is vital.
Yes, my previous RV fridge actually had its own OEM fan and they installed it just below the fins. Here is a picture www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/DM2652-Dometic-Fridge-back-view.jpg It was very noisy though so I ended up pulling the fridge and replacing it with a quieter fan. www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-my-noisy-dometic-dm2652-rv-fridge-fan/
@@LoveYourRV soooo helpful. Thanks as always for taking the time.
@@LoveYourRV another problem I found was a 7” x 26” open space above the back side of the fridge collecting a lot of heat. I made baffles to fill in that space and direct the air up and out of the offset vent. I also moved the upper titan famcsetup to right above the condenser fins. I think it’s helping but very little. A bit frustrating given all the work. Last thing to do I supposed is add a fan below the condenser fan to blow air over the fins. Domestic service said that’s the best place for the fan.
How can you install this in a 110v fridge that has no openings to get to power from within the fridge?!?!
These fans are meant for absorption-type RV fridges that work on propane and/or electricity and need extra cooling. It sounds like you have a compressor-type 110V only fridge, and it usually has its own fan built in.
Why do we have to do this? RV manufacturers should have this as an OEM product.
Some models do come with fans, my previous Dometic had one, but it was so noisy it would drive me nuts, ended up pulling the fridge and installing a quieter computer case fan. www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-my-noisy-dometic-dm2652-rv-fridge-fan/
Your voice fades out at times.