Thank you so much for posting the video. It saved me almost $9000. My furnace had exactly the same problem. I called the Trane dealer who installed the furnace for me originally. They charged me $99 to send out a tech to inspect. The guy used a scope and took a few pictures of heat exchange and burner. He said the heat exchange had a crack and the burners were bad (confirmed there were no cracks later). He said $5600 for replacing the heat exchanger and $2000-$3000 for the burners. He said a brand new furnace cost $9000. He convened me that it is better to install a new one than repairing it. The cost is way high than I thought. I did a search on YT and found your video. It took me about 10 min to remove the burners out. The gas channel was clogged by buildup/rust. I ordered new burners from Amazon for $88 and put them back. The furnace is working again. I really appreciate ppl like you here on YT helping us. Sadly, my experience reinforced my idea about some ppl.
I am very thankful for your video. Not only was it informative and to the point, but that you used specific wording for the title that makes it searchable. Others try to use catchy, or flashy titles that only serve to serve as eye candy for their subscribers and does NOTHING for non-subscribers. I not only thank you but I did the thumbs up and subscribed !
Just finished. My burner plate was a slightly different design (individual burner plate sections for each burner) but the interconnecting gas porting seam was still the same. Pulled it apart, cleaned them out and viola, back in business. Thanks again for you video highlighting the exact problem and solution.
Thank you so much for sharing symptoms and cure and explaining how to clean the crud from the edge of the burner plate crossover grooves to allow the the other flames to ignite. I used a soft bronze wire brush. I pried open the grooves a little with a flat head screwdriver - maybe a bad idea -and better to replace the plate and get a clean new one - it is just a $25 part ? I pried them open a little - seemed to be ok. Also -- on my furnace there is brittle Silicon carbide heated igniter ( rather than your spark igniter) right in front of the plate. Best to REMOVE that first before trying to remove the plate ( but do not touch the black ceramic part with finger grease or will later crack from hotspot). I didn't do this - and bumped and smashed the ceramic while removing the burner plate. $20 heated igniter part but 3 day wait over a weekend in the freezing cold. Got a replacement one - installed it AFTER putting the burner plate back first - and the cleaned plate worked first time on all 5 flames - previously just 2 and then failed and shut down. 23year old Rheem Criterion 2 furnace. Previously replaced the controller board after 20 yrs ($130), then blower motor ($200) after 21 yrs. HVAC people refused to fix it both times - first claimed they could not get the parts - and then when I gave them the part numbers - they said it was policy never to fix 20yr or older systems - that they would "be liable" when something else went ... such nonsense ... they said had to get a new system - $10K+ and should replace the AC at the same time too ! Likely would have said the same this time too. I was worried it might be the gas valve ($160) with possible low pressure and would need to buy a manometer to diagnose that and to set up the new gas valve safely - but cleaning out the crud fixed it straight away. Can still get all the parts for these systems so in theory could keep them going for many more years. Anyway - thanks again.
Thank you so much. I thought it was the valve. Spent $120 and still had the same issue. Used a $3 hook pick I have in the garage and fixed the issue in 5 minutes without even removing the manifold 🤦🏽♂️
Thank you! Couldn't get the burner out and had to fashion a cleaning device out of a wire coat hanger to reach back and drag across the edge. It worked! Couldn't have done it without you.
Nice video. More accustomed to seeing individual in shot burners. Those must be removed one at a time and cleaned. I always clean my burners at the start of the heating season along with flame sensor rod. No issues if you follow simple diy steps like these. Thanks.
Mr. Flannel Guy, you just got a new subscriber, me. Thanks a million. I did exactly as you instructed. I removed the screws with a small socket wrench for the tight fit, cleaned it with a wire brush, knocked off on the garage floor to dislodge the loose debris, blew it out with some air from my lungs and reinstalled. My right and middle burners were ignited but my left was not and this caused it to turn off after just a few seconds. Now all three burners are firing. My downstairs is warm again. Thanks again.
Hi Mr. Flannel Guy. Hey man, thank you very much for this video. I was able to figure out and fix the issue I was having with my old furnace. Such a valuable information, it saved me a few bucks. Really appreciated
Great, clear and concise video. You saved me some $$. After I cleaned the channel (which did not look dirty), I took a soft steal wool and cleaned the flame sensor. I also used some canned air to clear everything. Everything works great now thanks to you! thank you!
Thanks from Australia! I tried your cleaning tip but had to create a tool to do the cleaning as I would have had to do some considerable dismantling to do the job. The tool was a narrow piece of copper sheet with the end bent to almost flat against itself. Scraped it up and down the flame path. Unfortunately in my case that wasn't the problem, it turned out to be a partially blocked jet. Jiggling a bit of wire up the jets solved the problem. Saved the wire and the 'flame path' cleaner inside the unit for future use. Thank you, I learned something and that lead me to the solution.
Thank you flannel guy. You just save me hundreds. I cleaned with a simple wire brush and toothbrush. Took me a bit to get the screws out but is worked like a charm. $$$
Thank you when my furnace would light only two burners would light and when the other to lit it lit the gas from the two unlit with a loud bang .my burners are of a different design and only took compressed are to clear the dust out .this video saved me a service call
Very helpful, but I'd like to add something else, I took it out and it was clean, then using an screwdriver I opened the gap between the burners and it started working good, thanks the video
Great video. I cleaned everything. And I'm definitely getting every burner to light. I cleaned the flame sensor. But I'm still not getting blower to turn on. I'm lost now
This is why you should service your furnace before every heating season starts. The service addresses the issue by cleaning it thoroughly. The furnace may look clean but there could be a clog from combustion debris or corrosion.
It cost me 500 dollars to find out the furnace guy didn`t know anything . After he changed the gas valve and ignitor I started having trouble again and since I didn`t have any money left I tried starting it with a lighter and the nossel pointing at the ingnitor was plugged.and that was 500 dollars wasted. . Lesson learned. you tube people know better and are a lot cheaper.
Wondering if I might pick your brain a bit. We've got a propane furnace here and it seems to function well besides the fact that I know I need to seal ductwork. Nearly every time it does it's start up sequence, there's a metallic clunk from the unit. I haven't actually checked into it much but from seeing this video I'm mildly under the impression that my burners may need to be cleaned, that I may be missing a small bracket, or that I have a loose screw somewhere. We don't have any history of maintenance for this unit, just that it is a replacement unit that was installed within the last 5 years. We thought it was delayed ignition at first but it isn't an explosion sound and it isn't violent. Just a mild little clunk.
@@ciarano.1512 That's what the tech said. Not specifically a valve but part of the physical mechanism that works with it. It's meant to be a normal port of operation.
I have a similar furnace. Do you ever clean out the tubes the flame is shooting into? Mine have a grayish buildup inside and I was thinking about running a circular brush down them while holding a vacuum at the opening. It seems like this buildup would hinder the ability of the flames to heat the tubes efficiently.
good video mate, good video... mine is American Standard gas boiler, from the 70's, yesterday I noticed that pilot stays on, but boilers under 70 degree dont burn... any idea? thanks
That means get a licensed heating contractor in. Gas furnace DIY repairs and tinkering is dangerous. You are dealing with natural gas and you could cause a catastrophic failure and fire or explosion.
My furnace has been igniting the first burner and failing to start the other two. However, it does intermittently succeed. I've cleaned the flame sensor, the burners and cleared out any debris in the burner box. I took the burners out and blew out the fuel path between them. They all appeared clean to start with. The furnace is only two years old. Actually, I was able to pass some card stock through the fuel path. There are three individual burners, not one piece. I wondered about exhaust. The exhaust pipe (PVC) is the Diversitech CVENT. So I don't know how to see inside the exterior pipe. The centre pipe looked clear, but I could see water at the very bottom. Is that normal? A 'P' trap maybe? There is nothing covering the centre pipe. Should there be? After all the cleaning and reassembly now the furnace is short cycling. Perhaps just replacing the high limit switch and flame sensor is the next step. However, the limit switch continuity test passes. With that in mind my furnace is using propane so are there different switches and sensors that I should replace them with? Thanks so much for your hard work in posting these videos.
@@arizonalover6771 My flame box is a closed one. I took out all the screws and left the top middle one in so the door was not completely sealed. It works fine now. Weird but I'm warm. LOL
My furnace has this problem. I have taken the burner plate out and it is clean as a whistle. Spotless. The issue is intermittent. Maybe one time out of ten only one or two burners light and then the gas stops. Help!
Yes. The yellow is dust burning off. If the entire flame is yellow it is referred to as a luminous flame. This is caused by a lack of primary air mixing with the gas. This is not good and will eventually lead to carbonization of the heat exchanger. A good burner flame is a blue or a bunsen flame. While observing your flame rap on a burner lightly and you should see the specks of dust turning your flame briefly yellow.
Hey Flannel Guy, my oil furnace has a small boom or blow back at the end of the heat cycle and I can't find any info on it. Most blow back are at the beginning of the heat......anyone out there who has had this issue and or can help I would appreciate it! THANKS.
@@flannelguydiy6458 yeah i know the power safety stuff. :) our pro hvac guy came and cleaned up the furnace. The other furnace is still broken. Thanks for the reply
@@daytonwoodford4386 I heard about it after the fact they already bought the new one. The got a Chinese made piece of crap when there USA made one needed minor repair.
@@markbrandon7359 💩hb...I hate stories like this..retired navy down in Baja doing handyman work..that guy will get his..I’m a lot of bad things-NEVER CHEATING anyone -pilot lite burning-burners won’t ignite -on to the next step =that’s for the shout-out..stay clean and safe and don’t get sneeeeeeezed on 💉💉💉gscott
I wish you lived by us..We need a Good Honest guy to look at our 40 Year old Airco Furnace.. We don't want to replace it..They don't make the New ones like this Airco
Mr TEC. I replaced ,the ignating element last year, I clean my burners every year on my Lennox G24M-75A-10. MY FLAME SENSOR NEEDED CLEANING. SO CLEANED IT,AND NOW THE IGNICION TAKES PLACE THE BURNERS KICK IN.(A LITTLE LONGER 10/15 SECONDS BUT THEN IT JUST AHOTS OFF,I BLWE INTO THE BLOWER HOSE IT IS"CLEAN.I HEARD THERE IS THIS RESET BOTTON ,WHEREIS IT AND WHAT IS THE PROCEDURE.?
Thank you so much for posting the video. It saved me almost $9000. My furnace had exactly the same problem. I called the Trane dealer who installed the furnace for me originally. They charged me $99 to send out a tech to inspect. The guy used a scope and took a few pictures of heat exchange and burner. He said the heat exchange had a crack and the burners were bad (confirmed there were no cracks later). He said $5600 for replacing the heat exchanger and $2000-$3000 for the burners. He said a brand new furnace cost $9000. He convened me that it is better to install a new one than repairing it. The cost is way high than I thought. I did a search on YT and found your video. It took me about 10 min to remove the burners out. The gas channel was clogged by buildup/rust. I ordered new burners from Amazon for $88 and put them back. The furnace is working again. I really appreciate ppl like you here on YT helping us. Sadly, my experience reinforced my idea about some ppl.
I am very thankful for your video. Not only was it informative and to the point, but that you used specific wording for the title that makes it searchable. Others try to use catchy, or flashy titles that only serve to serve as eye candy for their subscribers and does NOTHING for non-subscribers. I not only thank you but I did the thumbs up and subscribed !
Just finished. My burner plate was a slightly different design (individual burner plate sections for each burner) but the interconnecting gas porting seam was still the same. Pulled it apart, cleaned them out and viola, back in business. Thanks again for you video highlighting the exact problem and solution.
Literally just watched this video and fixed my problem!!! Saved me an $85 service charge
I am glad it helped. Please like and share the video on your social networks
Thank you! Cleaned it out and I have every chamber firing again. System is running smoothly again. I owe you a beer(s)
Thank you so much for sharing symptoms and cure and explaining how to clean the crud from the edge of the burner plate crossover grooves to allow the the other flames to ignite. I used a soft bronze wire brush. I pried open the grooves a little with a flat head screwdriver - maybe a bad idea -and better to replace the plate and get a clean new one - it is just a $25 part ? I pried them open a little - seemed to be ok. Also -- on my furnace there is brittle Silicon carbide heated igniter ( rather than your spark igniter) right in front of the plate. Best to REMOVE that first before trying to remove the plate ( but do not touch the black ceramic part with finger grease or will later crack from hotspot). I didn't do this - and bumped and smashed the ceramic while removing the burner plate. $20 heated igniter part but 3 day wait over a weekend in the freezing cold. Got a replacement one - installed it AFTER putting the burner plate back first - and the cleaned plate worked first time on all 5 flames - previously just 2 and then failed and shut down. 23year old Rheem Criterion 2 furnace. Previously replaced the controller board after 20 yrs ($130), then blower motor ($200) after 21 yrs. HVAC people refused to fix it both times - first claimed they could not get the parts - and then when I gave them the part numbers - they said it was policy never to fix 20yr or older systems - that they would "be liable" when something else went ... such nonsense ... they said had to get a new system - $10K+ and should replace the AC at the same time too ! Likely would have said the same this time too. I was worried it might be the gas valve ($160) with possible low pressure and would need to buy a manometer to diagnose that and to set up the new gas valve safely - but cleaning out the crud fixed it straight away. Can still get all the parts for these systems so in theory could keep them going for many more years. Anyway - thanks again.
Very straight forward, clear and easy to understand, keep it up bud
Awesome fix! That saved a ton of money right there! Thanks for sharing this my friend!
Thank you so much!!! Clear and concise and saved me a repair bill. THANKS!!!!
Thank you so much. I thought it was the valve. Spent $120 and still had the same issue. Used a $3 hook pick I have in the garage and fixed the issue in 5 minutes without even removing the manifold 🤦🏽♂️
thanks for watching!
Thank you! Couldn't get the burner out and had to fashion a cleaning device out of a wire coat hanger to reach back and drag across the edge. It worked! Couldn't have done it without you.
i am glad it helped. Please like and share the video in your social networks
This is exactly whats going on with my furnace. Thank you for the simple and informative video.
Glad it helped
Nice video. More accustomed to seeing individual in shot burners. Those must be removed one at a time and cleaned. I always clean my burners at the start of the heating season along with flame sensor rod. No issues if you follow simple diy steps like these. Thanks.
Thank you sir! Used this today... saved me a service call. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
thanks for watching! please share the video
A most excellent step-by-step repair video. 🥳 Thank you.
Mr. Flannel Guy, you just got a new subscriber, me. Thanks a million. I did exactly as you instructed. I removed the screws with a small socket wrench for the tight fit, cleaned it with a wire brush, knocked off on the garage floor to dislodge the loose debris, blew it out with some air from my lungs and reinstalled. My right and middle burners were ignited but my left was not and this caused it to turn off after just a few seconds. Now all three burners are firing. My downstairs is warm again. Thanks again.
I am glad this helped.. now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook,
Hi Mr. Flannel Guy. Hey man, thank you very much for this video. I was able to figure out and fix the issue I was having with my old furnace. Such a valuable information, it saved me a few bucks. Really appreciated
Glad it helped....now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook
Great, clear and concise video. You saved me some $$. After I cleaned the channel (which did not look dirty), I took a soft steal wool and cleaned the flame sensor. I also used some canned air to clear everything. Everything works great now thanks to you! thank you!
Did you also use the air can to spray air into the gas manifold gas holes? I have a funny feeling on mine, I have to do this.
Super Fix! Thank you soooooooooo much.System up and running thanks to you and saved a ton of money
thanks for watching...
Thanks from Australia! I tried your cleaning tip but had to create a tool to do the cleaning as I would have had to do some considerable dismantling to do the job. The tool was a narrow piece of copper sheet with the end bent to almost flat against itself. Scraped it up and down the flame path. Unfortunately in my case that wasn't the problem, it turned out to be a partially blocked jet. Jiggling a bit of wire up the jets solved the problem. Saved the wire and the 'flame path' cleaner inside the unit for future use. Thank you, I learned something and that lead me to the solution.
Bro, you helped me so much. Thank you!!!! just got mine working again. Cleaned it up and opened the channel a little. Thanks so much!!!!
thanks... now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook,
Well done video and clearly explained.
Thank you flannel guy. You just save me hundreds. I cleaned with a simple wire brush and toothbrush. Took me a bit to get the screws out but is worked like a charm. $$$
While I was at it I cleaned the sensor.
thanks for watching....please share the video for me. Thx
Great video...Thanks a million !!!
Thank you when my furnace would light only two burners would light and when the other to lit it lit the gas from the two unlit with a loud bang .my burners are of a different design and only took compressed are to clear the dust out .this video saved me a service call
thanks for watching. it would help me if you could share the video in your social networks.
The heat kit nozzle is like an ordinary butterfly kitchen stove, and the color of the fire is perfect, blue, of course very hot, my friend
This helped me get mine going. Ty.
This worked for me. Thanks so much for saving me money!
Thanks for the knowledge, staying warm now.
Glad it worked out for you
Thank you for this video. Fixed my problem.
so glad it helped Mark
wow i so excited ! as soon as i seen the video i new that would fix it , fired right up .....thanks very helpful...
thanks for watching Wayne
First real cold night of the winter, glad I found your video so I don't have to freeze tonight.
thanks for watching...
Thank you, my furnace is now working again.
Very helpful. That worked for me too!! Thank you!!
thanks for watching!
WOW and thank you great knowledge to pass on works like a million bucks and it was not so hard .
my friends, thank you for sharing the tutorial
thank you for watching
Thanks, this video helped me! 👍
Excellent cleaning job training. 3/14/2022
Thank you it helped me 🎉
Thanks this helped me fix mine
Thanks for the video! Fixed my problem!
thanks for watching!
Very helpful, but I'd like to add something else, I took it out and it was clean, then using an screwdriver I opened the gap between the burners and it started working good, thanks the video
I did the same thing with the screwdriver... widened the gap. Just did not show that in the video
I have to leave a comment.. Thank you for the info it’s very helpful
Great video. I cleaned everything. And I'm definitely getting every burner to light. I cleaned the flame sensor. But I'm still not getting blower to turn on. I'm lost now
Did you replace blower fan/reducer?
It worked thank you so much I'm now subscribed
thank you and glad it worked
Fantastic informative video sir thank you 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it helped....now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook
Amazing. Thanks.
Thanks for the video! Easy fix with you video
thanks for watching!
This is why you should service your furnace before every heating season starts. The service addresses the issue by cleaning it thoroughly. The furnace may look clean but there could be a clog from combustion debris or corrosion.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
thanks great video thanks for the help
thank you for watching
Thanks for the very good info, mine just done this, hope it solves the problem, I'll let you know, 12/12/21, time 11.oo a.m
Very interesting knowledge to have.
Glad you think so!
Good video but I could not get screw off. So I took some Dust-off instant remover sprayed it into the holes. Turned it on and it started right up.
Good video thanks for sharing
thanks for watching. it would help me if you could share the video in your social networks.
It cost me 500 dollars to find out the furnace guy didn`t know anything . After he changed the gas valve and ignitor I started having trouble again and since I didn`t have any money left I tried starting it with a lighter and the nossel pointing at the ingnitor was plugged.and that was 500 dollars wasted. . Lesson learned. you tube people know better and are a lot cheaper.
Thank you sir you saved me $$
thanks for watching!
My greeting from iraq well done
thank you!
thank you!
You're welcome!
THANK YOU
thanks for watching! please share the video
Had that exact problem thank you
Glad it helped....now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook
Sorry don’t have Facebook.
Thank you
Welcome!
I have a pilot light and I cleaned the igniter and the burners will not kick in so why not??
You are getting alike and subscribe for that.I didn’t know about the channel thank you.
thank you!
Wondering if I might pick your brain a bit. We've got a propane furnace here and it seems to function well besides the fact that I know I need to seal ductwork. Nearly every time it does it's start up sequence, there's a metallic clunk from the unit. I haven't actually checked into it much but from seeing this video I'm mildly under the impression that my burners may need to be cleaned, that I may be missing a small bracket, or that I have a loose screw somewhere. We don't have any history of maintenance for this unit, just that it is a replacement unit that was installed within the last 5 years.
We thought it was delayed ignition at first but it isn't an explosion sound and it isn't violent. Just a mild little clunk.
Might be gas valve turning on
@@ciarano.1512 That's what the tech said. Not specifically a valve but part of the physical mechanism that works with it. It's meant to be a normal port of operation.
I have a similar furnace. Do you ever clean out the tubes the flame is shooting into? Mine have a grayish buildup inside and I was thinking about running a circular brush down them while holding a vacuum at the opening. It seems like this buildup would hinder the ability of the flames to heat the tubes efficiently.
it cant hurt to do that
good video mate, good video... mine is American Standard gas boiler, from the 70's, yesterday I noticed that pilot stays on, but boilers under 70 degree dont burn... any idea?
thanks
hmmmm not sure
Same issue after thanksgiving
👍
modine garage furnace the burner does not come on instantly and when it do it makes explosion what could be problem
Does anyone know what causes this to occur ? Or is it just Rust/SUDD build up over time?
It's carbon build from burning a fuel
Hey! Nice video!
So I’m not getting any flame does that mean my valve is bad? Thanks
it could mean your ignitor or your flame sensor is bad.
That means get a licensed heating contractor in. Gas furnace DIY repairs and tinkering is dangerous. You are dealing with natural gas and you could cause a catastrophic failure and fire or explosion.
Didn’t get a licensed contractor, but my father, fixed this with no problem. It was most definitely was my ignitor
My furnace has been igniting the first burner and failing to start the other two. However, it does intermittently succeed. I've cleaned the flame sensor, the burners and cleared out any debris in the burner box. I took the burners out and blew out the fuel path between them. They all appeared clean to start with. The furnace is only two years old. Actually, I was able to pass some card stock through the fuel path. There are three individual burners, not one piece.
I wondered about exhaust. The exhaust pipe (PVC) is the Diversitech CVENT. So I don't know how to see inside the exterior pipe. The centre pipe looked clear, but I could see water at the very bottom. Is that normal? A 'P' trap maybe? There is nothing covering the centre pipe. Should there be? After all the cleaning and reassembly now the furnace is short cycling. Perhaps just replacing the high limit switch and flame sensor is the next step. However, the limit switch continuity test passes. With that in mind my furnace is using propane so are there different switches and sensors that I should replace them with? Thanks so much for your hard work in posting these videos.
JS, I have the exact same intermittent issue. Just posted 3/25/23 Arizona lover. Did you find solution?
@@arizonalover6771 My flame box is a closed one. I took out all the screws and left the top middle one in so the door was not completely sealed. It works fine now. Weird but I'm warm. LOL
What if it doesn't light the first one?
My furnace has this problem. I have taken the burner plate out and it is clean as a whistle. Spotless. The issue is intermittent. Maybe one time out of ten only one or two burners light and then the gas stops. Help!
You didn't mention the cost of the hospital visit for your thumb, that sheet metal can play dirty some times..
I dont even feel things like that anymore. I had a job repairing ski bottoms when I was 17 and used razor blades for hours at a time.
Found the issue with mine was a covered Flue pipe outside
From the look of all that corrosion you must live in a humid climate.
Are the small yellow spurts in the flame normal?
I would have to see it to answer
Yes. The yellow is dust burning off. If the entire flame is yellow it is referred to as a luminous flame. This is caused by a lack of primary air mixing with the gas. This is not good and will eventually lead to carbonization of the heat exchanger. A good burner flame is a blue or a bunsen flame. While observing your flame rap on a burner lightly and you should see the specks of dust turning your flame briefly yellow.
mine has 2 coils a hot and a neutral.
i get spark but none of them fires up? i cleaned the grate the sensor and the igniter
check your flame sensor
Hey Flannel Guy, my oil furnace has a small boom or blow back at the end of the heat cycle and I can't find any info on it. Most blow back are at the beginning of the heat......anyone out there who has had this issue and or can help I would appreciate it! THANKS.
No idea
Would i have to open my burner box to get to that? That seems kinda risky.
just shut off the power to your furnace. You are supposed to do that anyway
@@flannelguydiy6458 yeah i know the power safety stuff. :) our pro hvac guy came and cleaned up the furnace. The other furnace is still broken.
Thanks for the reply
just replace it.. if its starting to rot out its on the way out.. i mean if its a sunday after hours get it going but order a new one.
Why didnt the flame sensor shut the unit down when the last burner was not lit?
It did shut it down
@@flannelguydiy6458 ooo ok
You should loosen up and get a tripod for your camera. An instructive video though A like and subscibe for you.
thanks for watching. Please share the video!
A lot of times when the furnace is dormant, I’ve had spiders an their webs block the orifice.
Matt
thanks for watching!
What if the ignitor is on but none of the burners are lighting
you may not be getting gas
My damn heat keeps going off and the house drops to the 60s..help
I would replace that flex line with steel pipe.
that flex line is long gone. I have another video where the entire furnace was replaced (done after this video)
My Dad was having furnace trouble the repair man told him "you need a whole new furnace don't start this one up as it may blow up"
hey MB --you fix it -or new furnace
@@daytonwoodford4386 I heard about it after the fact they already bought the new one. The got a Chinese made piece of crap when there USA made one needed minor repair.
@@markbrandon7359 💩hb...I hate stories like this..retired navy down in Baja doing handyman work..that guy will get his..I’m a lot of bad things-NEVER CHEATING anyone -pilot lite burning-burners won’t ignite -on to the next step =that’s for the shout-out..stay clean and safe and don’t get sneeeeeeezed on 💉💉💉gscott
@@daytonwoodford4386 TY for your service
Mever seen a flexable gas line used on a furnace I don't believe that go code.
yeah maybe not... that was there when the home was purchased. It is gone now because the furnace has been replaced.
3 bucks worth of stainless steel used by the manufacturer would be nice.
yeah imagine that.. using the right material when they manufacture something. That said, the area can still get clogged with debris
What about that Michigan heat*ng guy that sees rust and says toss out the furnace, even when its from 2009?
i guess dont call that guy back again
Carb cleaner.
maybe... use whatever works
I wish you lived by us..We need a Good Honest guy to look at our 40 Year old Airco Furnace..
We don't want to replace it..They don't make the New ones like this Airco
where do you live? you may be able to do some of this yourself
If it’s 40 years old a new Furnace will probably pay for itself within two years
Mr TEC. I replaced ,the ignating element last year, I clean my burners every year on my Lennox G24M-75A-10. MY FLAME SENSOR NEEDED CLEANING. SO CLEANED IT,AND NOW THE IGNICION TAKES PLACE THE BURNERS KICK IN.(A LITTLE LONGER 10/15 SECONDS BUT THEN IT JUST AHOTS OFF,I BLWE INTO THE BLOWER HOSE IT IS"CLEAN.I HEARD THERE IS THIS RESET BOTTON ,WHEREIS IT AND WHAT IS THE PROCEDURE.?
Mira Mala Mia, yo no queria comentar en su video. A mi no me importa donde tu vives. ESO era para un amigo de P.R
It's weird that he does home repair videos but he can't find a wire brush. I can tell my grandkids over the phone where my wire brushes are.
yeah weird that someone with a garage full of tools (with kids who also use them) cannot find a very small item. Thanks for watching.
Don't touch gas if you're not qualified. It's illegal in UK.
everything is illegal in the UK