How about FLEXIBLE Lines? Check out this new video to see how I make the necessary flex lines for custom builds: czcams.com/video/_Ot5MRB3sjw/video.html
You want to use Harris 45% sliver soldier with Harris white flux. The lines need to be clean. Put them together, then put flux on the fitting, ( don't get flux inside the fitting). I use a small oxy acty. torch. Im in the Refrigeration heating and AC trade. I have welded copper to steel, copper to stainless, and stainless to stainless. Ok you have pretty much one shot at this. When the flux flows into the joint, touch the sliver solder to the joint, If you over heat the joint stop, It should not turn red, its over heated or if it turns black its over heated and wont flow. My torch is small. You can get the supplies at any United Refrigeration supply parts house. Some Heating and AC parts places may carry it as well, but not all do. You will control the heat by moving it away from the part, don't set the torch up to supper hot. 7 psi on the oxygen and 7 psi on the acteylen. I miss spelled it. Practice on a piece. You will get it fast.
I agree, billcobb9408 I agree about the common AC line sets. Muggy Weld, Aluma-Weld and many other's don't work except name brand silco with flux, but cleaning is key. I am an old car tech who's seen lines go copper, aluminum and tools to form off-set flanges on aluminum lines for mobile applications including o-ring. This is best practices but I love the SS look. Thanks for your comment. DK ASE Master since 78, retired.
Alan - very good job of describing the 'intimate details' of doing this kind of work. I really like your attention to detail, and concern for doing the best possible job!
Using the vise when you are soldering might be your biggest issue when soldering you want the heat to stay in the part your working with that vise is acting like a GIANT HEAT SINK, Making it very hard for the torch to keep up and keep the stainless hot enough for the soldering. Maybe Try clamping the tube in some 2x4s then into the vise? I first noticed this problem when I was soldering battery cables in the vise at a heavy equipment shop I was working for they didn't bond well So I went to the most experienced tech in the shop who has taught me tons of stuff and that's what he told me. The vise is soaking up the precious heat.
I absolutely LOVE your videos and content. Keep up the amazing work! Go back and play with silver brazing again!!! I learned the art building lugged bicycle frames, and it applies to hot rods well. Some hints: 1) More focused heat... Use a fine tip on O/A torch rather than the plumber style propane. 2) Get the parts REALLY clean. Like clean until you think they are good, and then clean some more. 2.5) Clean the rod too! And flux it! 3) Flux the parts, and assemble them fluxed and cold. Do not heat before assembly like in this video. (Just burns off the flux and makes life harder) 4) Focus the heat on the opposite side of the fitting from where you are adding silver. The silver will wick into the fitting and go chasing the heat. If you heat up where you're trying to add the solder it just bunches on top like you saw in this video.
I think I might have two tips to get the silver soldering to work, once you have cleaned the parts and put flux on them stick them together and then start heating. once you have heated the tube to the point where solder can melt on the tube by itself, with the flame not on it, heat the side opposite where you are feeding solder because solder likes to follow heat.
I solder stainless steel all the time. First for brazing stainless lines, you have have clean parts. One of my tricks is to not apply the borax flux brushed on paste untill the metal is about 250 degrees. Then take both peices up in temperature evenly directing the torch mostly at the part with the biggest mass. I usually have a strip of solder to dable on the part. Once the solder starts to flow a solder pick can be used to help flow the solder. Temperature control is very important at this point. If you heat either part more than the other a scale will form on the SS that gets too hot and solder will not flow. The solder flows at about 1025 degrees. The scale forms at a red hot color the brighter the red gets the more scale. so watch your heat control. I am a 40 years Master Jeweler, I have been building hot rods for same time and stainless steel model boat hardware for the last 30 years. Thanks for your help in the video.
Thank you for the super helpful video on how to build stainless steel hard lines for the AC system. I used your other videos on bending hard lines to help be build some beautiful brake lines - now it's time for the AC. Ok - here we go!
Silver solder fittings: Put the part vertical in a vice to secure it, use a torpedo level and plumb it so it is strait up and down. Coat with silver solder paste. Take solder and form it into a circle around the fitting so it is one full piece that can sit right around the fitting against the tube. Slowly heat the fitting not the solder its self. The solder will slowly melt and even seep between the fitting and pipe, giving you a perfect weld and seal. Use a respirator, glasses, and gloves, that silver flux is super toxic to breathe, and you do NOT want it on your skin or in your eyes.
I hate watching your videos because every time I do, I get really discouraged. Ha. You turn this stuff into an art form, man! Can only hope to one day know a quarter of what you appear to know. I'll just be happy being able to future-proof my car and truck's operational capacities.
You are probably my favorite CZcams contributor for "plumbing"--ie an fittings, stainless etc! You really inspired me to replumb the fuel line on a 60's VW with AN. Of course, the problem is that the nipples coming out of gas tank etc are 5mm---so I simply silver soldered a piece of 1/4 Nicop on...flared the NICOP used AN4 fittings...worked great! Now that's not stainless---but I noticed that you had the joints apart when heating---I have found that if you do that--you will get soot contamination from Propane (or MAPP). I assemble and then heat the outer joint part until the solder liquifies when touching pipe---capillary action does rest! Sometimes its inexplicable why things don't work. For years, I would go to shows (like SEMA) and see the ubiquitous guy demoing "aluminum brazing"...I kept trying it and could not get the joints to join. As part of the VW project--I needed to make a bracket to hold a Carter fuel pump...I bent some aluminum and added tabs---but followed by local welding stores advice about asssembling first, clamping and then let it flow using capillary action---it worked great. I was overjoyed...but I had a blind spot on the technique...go figure...BTW miss your hot rod hippie posts---I know your more into 3d printing etc these days...but your automotive content is first rate👍
Talk to a Plumber about silver soldering and see if the person has time to show you the basics. Once you have the basics, you won't look back. Cheers for the video bud :-)
I do HVAC and work with silver solder all the time (residential not automotive). Silver solder we draze to copper with we braze in with oxy acetaline, much higher heat then butane or propane. I am going to try my first automotive install this week weather permitting!
Put in the compressor, was unable to find an evaporator core box so i need to manufacture it myself. Still plan on doing the job, just have no timeline now.
I agree about the silver solder being the devil to work with I don't know why they haven't come up with compression style fittings that may be use a ferrul system to seal the fitting to the line
I've tried silver solder for other things and I can say it is very finicky. From what I have gathered from trying, the parts have to be CLEANED extremely well and fit together tight, no gapes or small spaces. Then everything needs flux. Flux both pieces where you want the joint and also flux the solder itself. Then heat. It takes a decent amount of heat so don't be shy with the torch. I'm still learning myself but keep practicing too.
A solder joint has to be surgically clean for it to work. If a fingerprint gets on it, it's pretty much useless until clean again (with acetone). Most (or maybe all other) cleaners will leave a residue that will negatively affect the joining of the two sides. And it has to be a slip fit joint from what I've seen. Trying to butt weld the two sides is an exercise in madness.
Nice video, looks like the the propane is not hot enough. I would try an Acetylene tank with a turbo torch setup. I would also purge the piping with nitrogen to make sure the inside is perfectly clean of slag or crust
Every tutorial I could find said the metal should not reach red hot when soldering stainless, so the purging “should” be unnecessary. But it would be a good practice anyway. I did use an Acetylene torch which I didn’t film because I was frustrated at that point. It made no difference unfortunately. I need to find someone who has done this specific task to demonstrate it. Sadly so far I haven’t found anyone.
So in the industrial world and in particular, the oil & gas industry, we used stainless tubing everywhere. You would be impressed with the installation skills of the instrumentation guys. Swagelock is the most common brand. I'm wondering if Swagelok has AN fitting to make things work in the automotive world.
I know this is an OLDER video... and let me chime in as far as the SILVER SOLDER. I would have to say that your torches flame is too big/broad... and the flame needs to be smaller..as in PIN POINTING where you need the heat to be. This would also give you a more uniform heating ability. AWESOME VIDEOS and WORKMANSHIP!!!
I'm a little late to the party, but that propane torch isn't gonna get hot enough to do the solder job you need. Mapp gas would be better, oxy/acetylene would be ideal.
I am stumped. Bought a vintage air hose/bead lock connector kit… my receiver drier and my condenser have a fitting that is the same as all the connectors that came with the kit, like female to female. So looks like a GM fuel bubble flare 3/8” from end with o ring. Can’t find a -6 and -8 union that fits
The comments are as good as the video, thanks @billcobb9408 for this comment: "You want to use Harris 45% sliver soldier with Harris white flux. The lines need to be clean. Put them together, then put flux on the fitting, ( don't get flux inside the fitting). I use a small oxy acty. torch. Im in the Refrigeration heating and AC trade. I have welded copper to steel, copper to stainless, and stainless to stainless. Ok you have pretty much one shot at this. When the flux flows into the joint, touch the sliver solder to the joint, If you over heat the joint stop, It should not turn red, its over heated or if it turns black its over heated and wont flow. My torch is small. You can get the supplies at any United Refrigeration supply parts house. Some Heating and AC parts places may carry it as well, but not all do. You will control the heat by moving it away from the part, don't set the torch up to supper hot. 7 psi on the oxygen and 7 psi on the acteylen. I miss spelled it. Practice on a piece. You will get it fast."
have you ever checked with swagelok? They make the best tube fittings, tools, and accessories. We use them for semiconductor fabs, and such. There are knockoff that work too, but swagelok is the best.
Instead of TIG welding the ends on the lines; have you thought about using those 4 Seasons O-ring to flare A/C adapters, and do a 37 degree flare on the stainless lines?
Hello Alan, for brazing stainless lines, you have to prepare clean parts, then assemble them with flux between (only where you want solder at the end result. Solder want not stick elsewhere). Flux powder have to be mixed previously with water to a light paste viscosity. Need to be easy to apply and stay at the right place. Have enough powerful torche, so use oxy-acetylene. Warm up all parts together at the same temperature. Usually when the flux liquified you’re close to solder melting point. Have a look at any steel tube brazing videos, exemple: bike frame brasing. Use right solder material (material and melting temperature) and flux corresponding with your application. Regards czcams.com/video/IuhXgooZTb8/video.html
I think "powerful torch" is definitely key. I've tried silver solder with MAP gas, it's just not hot enough. The oxy/acetylene is the only route that's worked for me.
Im doing a custom install of a vintage air kit on a 86 c10. Now i feel comfortable doing everything from watching your videos and a couple previous VA installs. But i do have a question for you? How did you go about connecting you VA box to your bulkhead on the firewall? Could you possibly show some pics or something of your work behind the firewall? And 1 other question is do you say have to you hardline to connect say the VA box to your bulkhead? Thanks for any help or info and keep up the great work and videos!!!!!
Hey Alan, I've been watching your videos on A/C lines, LS water pumps AN fittings etc. Great job on your videos dude! I've done a couple of different LS swaps, and I'm currently doing one on a 1995 GMC Sonoma. It's been a fun project so far, and I'll definitely follow your suggestions on the heater hose AN fittings. I'm just wondering about a couple of things though. I'm using the stock heater core in this project, so I'll be using the regular 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses. But I do want to thread the water pump holes to 3/8" and 1/2" NPT so I can use the -10an male fittings. Where do you get the -10an female swivel to 3/4" 90-degree male barbed fittings to connect to the heater hose? I can find the -10 female swivel to 5/8" 90-degree male barbed fittings, but not the 3/4". Maybe I need to step up to a -12 fitting on the 3/4" hose? Also, just a comment on using silver solder for your stainless-steel a/c lines. I'm not an a/c tech by any means. But a few years ago, I did install a heat pump into my house. It was a big project, and it took me a while to complete it. But the end result was good. In the process, I learned a lot about using silver solder, and building a/c lines. The reason that they recommend using an inert gas such as argon when silver soldering (or welding) these connections together is because of the oxidation and the scale that occurs during the welding process itself. It's not to prevent oxidation and scale that can occur later while in use. You're correct that oxidation cannot take place in the absence of oxygen. But it does form immediately during the welding process without using an argon or nitrogen purge. (There are some good videos here with using a nitrogen purge while silver soldering a/c lines) You don't want any pressure to build up, because that will prevent the joint from sealing. It's just a light flow from one end to the other without any restrictions to cause pressure. The other thing that I learned is that propane is simply not hot enough for silver solder to flow into the joints. I found that oxyacetylene was the ticket. I've heard that MAP gas will also work, but I've never tried it. It's interesting to me that when working with home a/c systems, they don't use fittings that can later be disassembled to service something in the system. But they do use them in the automotive industry a/c systems. This means that if my home heat pump compressor ever fails, then I'll get to split the system by using the oxyacetylene to open the joints. I wonder why they haven't stepped up to removable fittings? Thanks again! Jeff Gravel
I watched your video to learn a how to for my mexican beetle project custom AC. tge bug came with an under dash Evap/blower box a sanden compressoron the engine but with the dreaded R134 the condensor behind the rear cargo in front of the engine fan poor performance the upgrade involves the Rolls mock up hood im placing a condensor behind the grille and cut a hole behind the grille make a fiberglass panel behind that place a conde sor fan on the condensor cut in vents on the sides of tge hood and fill system with good ole R12 therefor hard lines inside the hood up to the hinges .the hard libes to the rear compressor on the engine . so i will have a functionol front condensor on a rear engine air cooled fake RR bug. its a future project several ahead of it.... pretty COOL huh
Hate to be a youtube expert but im an auto electrician that does a lot of aircon and i would highly recomend flushing those pipes with ac flush or atleast brake cleaner excpecially if not back purging. Also the silver solder try oxy acytline and get it much hotter
Yes flushing is advised, I didn't include it because it is something that should be done for all new lines and just felt so basic to me. I forget sometimes the most basic things are the ones newbies don't know. As for silver soldering, I use Oxy Acetylene, just didn't film it. Didn't make any different. I've still gotten zero input that unlocked the mystery for me. It seems like one of those things an old timer likely has to SHOW me to get it.
Nice work- I found identical aluminum fittings without the nuts. So you could make an all aluminum line. These fittings either can be welded on or crimped on. I can get the steel male or female steel line fittings as well. They allow me to make original looking hard lines. Do you still think stainless would be better then aluminum if you knew you had that choice? Thanks again
I highly doubt that you'll have any problems with corrosion from not back-purging. You are correct that because the system is closed and full of refrigerant, there's minimal oxygen and moisture to create any significant corrosion issues.
*bombshell* ever considered ptfe stainless braided an line? 😅 all the specs are the same if u use the coated type. powersteering componants are rated for 3000psi.
Aloha. Have a question, with “universal parallel flow” condensers what is the orientation? #8 on top, #6 on bottom? #8 connected to the compressor and #6 connected to the drier?
Paging through that 4 Seasons catalog that I mentioned / linked in the description and finding something that will work. Or taking the original line to a HVAC shop to either cross reference for a new part or repair with a new flex section. I've done all of those in the past. As well as cutting up a fitting and welding up my own adapter pieces. 9 times out of 10 anymore, I don't use factory AC components at all. Until I rehab everything, to work, convert it to R134a (which never works as well as R12 would have), and adapt parts, it just isn't worth it for the customer. I get that for people doing things on a budget it is different but time is money for my customers.
Sorry I just realized this is the Hard Line tubing video. I talked about adapting on the Soft Hose video you can find here: czcams.com/video/_Ot5MRB3sjw/video.html
do you USE/put FLUX on the tubes when welding (because I've noticed. plumbers always use flux on their copper pipes, even circuit board soldiers use FLUX, I BET YOU THAT'S PROBABLY YOUR PROBLEM WHEN WELDING)
Nope. You are talking far too much pressure to trust a single 37 degree flare. Some older AC hose setups use flared connections without o-rings but they are always aluminum which has more potential to “seat” better and it’s not a single flare design. O-ring sealing is king on AC systems these days.
I've used Oxy-Acetylene numerous times. I only used that torch for a demonstration purpose in this video. Easier than breaking out the torches again just to film a quick segment of a video.
Josey @weldingtipsandtricks has a good vid about brazing: czcams.com/video/no-OWfC5-RY/video.html If it's anything like sweating copper pipes you need to have the joints together (with flux) when you're applying the heat. Also not sure if that propane torch will get it hot enough...
so... I guess I have to ask... what do you do when you come across "non-standard" lines....? I have a 1994 Silverado that I LS swapped... the High pressure line between the compressor and the condenser, is NOT standard line.... By that I mean, I cut the rubber, flexible, part of the high pressure line... and when I measured the ID (internal diameter) of the rubber hose it comes out to .465"... What? That's between a #8 and #10 line? So, what do you do? You are F'ed! THAT'S WHAT YOU DO.... Luckily I have a lathe, mill, and can TIG weld. I had to MAKE my own in-lines by milling an in-line splicer from aluminum bar stock..
How about FLEXIBLE Lines? Check out this new video to see how I make the necessary flex lines for custom builds: czcams.com/video/_Ot5MRB3sjw/video.html
Soloro Brazing has very informative, and shows how to silver solder stainless. Very informative.
You want to use Harris 45% sliver soldier with Harris white flux. The lines need to be clean. Put them together, then put flux on the fitting, ( don't get flux inside the fitting). I use a small oxy acty. torch. Im in the Refrigeration heating and AC trade. I have welded copper to steel, copper to stainless, and stainless to stainless. Ok you have pretty much one shot at this. When the flux flows into the joint, touch the sliver solder to the joint, If you over heat the joint stop, It should not turn red, its over heated or if it turns black its over heated and wont flow. My torch is small. You can get the supplies at any United Refrigeration supply parts house. Some Heating and AC parts places may carry it as well, but not all do. You will control the heat by moving it away from the part, don't set the torch up to supper hot. 7 psi on the oxygen and 7 psi on the acteylen. I miss spelled it. Practice on a piece. You will get it fast.
I agree, billcobb9408 I agree about the common AC line sets. Muggy Weld, Aluma-Weld and many other's don't work except name brand silco with flux, but cleaning is key. I am an old car tech who's seen lines go copper, aluminum and tools to form off-set flanges on aluminum lines for mobile applications including o-ring. This is best practices but I love the SS look. Thanks for your comment. DK
ASE Master since 78, retired.
Alan - very good job of describing the 'intimate details' of doing this kind of work. I really like your attention to detail, and concern for doing the best possible job!
Thank you Ron, I always appreciate when people notice the details and understand why they matter. 👍🏻👍🏻
Ron you're my favorite to watch! Everything you touch turns to gold! Awesome videos and awesome fabricator!
Using the vise when you are soldering might be your biggest issue when soldering you want the heat to stay in the part your working with that vise is acting like a GIANT HEAT SINK, Making it very hard for the torch to keep up and keep the stainless hot enough for the soldering. Maybe Try clamping the tube in some 2x4s then into the vise? I first noticed this problem when I was soldering battery cables in the vise at a heavy equipment shop I was working for they didn't bond well So I went to the most experienced tech in the shop who has taught me tons of stuff and that's what he told me. The vise is soaking up the precious heat.
I absolutely LOVE your videos and content. Keep up the amazing work!
Go back and play with silver brazing again!!! I learned the art building lugged bicycle frames, and it applies to hot rods well.
Some hints:
1) More focused heat... Use a fine tip on O/A torch rather than the plumber style propane.
2) Get the parts REALLY clean. Like clean until you think they are good, and then clean some more.
2.5) Clean the rod too! And flux it!
3) Flux the parts, and assemble them fluxed and cold. Do not heat before assembly like in this video. (Just burns off the flux and makes life harder)
4) Focus the heat on the opposite side of the fitting from where you are adding silver. The silver will wick into the fitting and go chasing the heat. If you heat up where you're trying to add the solder it just bunches on top like you saw in this video.
I think I might have two tips to get the silver soldering to work,
once you have cleaned the parts and put flux on them stick them together and then start heating. once you have heated the tube to the point where solder can melt on the tube by itself, with the flame not on it, heat the side opposite where you are feeding solder because solder likes to follow heat.
I solder stainless steel all the time. First for brazing stainless lines, you have have clean parts. One of my tricks is to not apply the borax flux brushed on paste untill the metal is about 250 degrees. Then take both peices up in temperature evenly directing the torch mostly at the part with the biggest mass. I usually have a strip of solder to dable on the part. Once the solder starts to flow a solder pick can be used to help flow the solder. Temperature control is very important at this point. If you heat either part more than the other a scale will form on the SS that gets too hot and solder will not flow. The solder flows at about 1025 degrees. The scale forms at a red hot color the brighter the red gets the more scale. so watch your heat control. I am a 40 years Master Jeweler, I have been building hot rods for same time and stainless steel model boat hardware for the last 30 years. Thanks for your help in the video.
Thank you for the super helpful video on how to build stainless steel hard lines for the AC system. I used your other videos on bending hard lines to help be build some beautiful brake lines - now it's time for the AC. Ok - here we go!
This is some golden info. Building an offroad truck and this is very helpful stuff on this channel.
Silver solder fittings:
Put the part vertical in a vice to secure it, use a torpedo level and plumb it so it is strait up and down. Coat with silver solder paste. Take solder and form it into a circle around the fitting so it is one full piece that can sit right around the fitting against the tube. Slowly heat the fitting not the solder its self. The solder will slowly melt and even seep between the fitting and pipe, giving you a perfect weld and seal. Use a respirator, glasses, and gloves, that silver flux is super toxic to breathe, and you do NOT want it on your skin or in your eyes.
I hate watching your videos because every time I do, I get really discouraged. Ha. You turn this stuff into an art form, man! Can only hope to one day know a quarter of what you appear to know. I'll just be happy being able to future-proof my car and truck's operational capacities.
You are probably my favorite CZcams contributor for "plumbing"--ie an fittings, stainless etc! You really inspired me to replumb the fuel line on a 60's VW with AN. Of course, the problem is that the nipples coming out of gas tank etc are 5mm---so I simply silver soldered a piece of 1/4 Nicop on...flared the NICOP used AN4 fittings...worked great! Now that's not stainless---but I noticed that you had the joints apart when heating---I have found that if you do that--you will get soot contamination from Propane (or MAPP). I assemble and then heat the outer joint part until the solder liquifies when touching pipe---capillary action does rest! Sometimes its inexplicable why things don't work. For years, I would go to shows (like SEMA) and see the ubiquitous guy demoing "aluminum brazing"...I kept trying it and could not get the joints to join. As part of the VW project--I needed to make a bracket to hold a Carter fuel pump...I bent some aluminum and added tabs---but followed by local welding stores advice about asssembling first, clamping and then let it flow using capillary action---it worked great. I was overjoyed...but I had a blind spot on the technique...go figure...BTW miss your hot rod hippie posts---I know your more into 3d printing etc these days...but your automotive content is first rate👍
The best vid you've made yet. Very well done
I also have my "template" or "guide" pieces that i use to get where i need to be when doing lines. They work great!
Nice video, Alan. Your work always looks like art.
I'm waiting for that video about flexible lines.
Talk to a Plumber about silver soldering and see if the person has time to show you the basics. Once you have the basics, you won't look back. Cheers for the video bud :-)
I'm happy I found this channel. I love clean work. Keep it up
I do HVAC and work with silver solder all the time (residential not automotive).
Silver solder we draze to copper with we braze in with oxy acetaline, much higher heat then butane or propane. I am going to try my first automotive install this week weather permitting!
How'd it go?
Put in the compressor, was unable to find an evaporator core box so i need to manufacture it myself. Still plan on doing the job, just have no timeline now.
Its like your bowling these right to me!
I can neither confirm or deny such a thing. HA
I agree about the silver solder being the devil to work with I don't know why they haven't come up with compression style fittings that may be use a ferrul system to seal the fitting to the line
I've tried silver solder for other things and I can say it is very finicky. From what I have gathered from trying, the parts have to be CLEANED extremely well and fit together tight, no gapes or small spaces. Then everything needs flux. Flux both pieces where you want the joint and also flux the solder itself. Then heat. It takes a decent amount of heat so don't be shy with the torch.
I'm still learning myself but keep practicing too.
Details make the job, fantastic work my man!
A solder joint has to be surgically clean for it to work. If a fingerprint gets on it, it's pretty much useless until clean again (with acetone). Most (or maybe all other) cleaners will leave a residue that will negatively affect the joining of the two sides. And it has to be a slip fit joint from what I've seen. Trying to butt weld the two sides is an exercise in madness.
Nice video, looks like the the propane is not hot enough. I would try an Acetylene tank with a turbo torch setup. I would also purge the piping with nitrogen to make sure the inside is perfectly clean of slag or crust
Every tutorial I could find said the metal should not reach red hot when soldering stainless, so the purging “should” be unnecessary. But it would be a good practice anyway. I did use an Acetylene torch which I didn’t film because I was frustrated at that point. It made no difference unfortunately. I need to find someone who has done this specific task to demonstrate it. Sadly so far I haven’t found anyone.
thanks for sharing your knowledge with us....Bravo
Try the silver solder with your tig. Your vice is pulling to much heat and propane isn't hot enough. And put your tube in and heat together.
So in the industrial world and in particular, the oil & gas industry, we used stainless tubing everywhere. You would be impressed with the installation skills of the instrumentation guys. Swagelock is the most common brand. I'm wondering if Swagelok has AN fitting to make things work in the automotive world.
I know this is an OLDER video... and let me chime in as far as the SILVER SOLDER. I would have to say that your torches flame is too big/broad... and the flame needs to be smaller..as in PIN POINTING where you need the heat to be. This would also give you a more uniform heating ability. AWESOME VIDEOS and WORKMANSHIP!!!
I'm a little late to the party, but that propane torch isn't gonna get hot enough to do the solder job you need. Mapp gas would be better, oxy/acetylene would be ideal.
Great tips
Great video. Useful information. Mahalo for sharing!🐒
Much appreciated, thank you 👍🏻👍🏻
I am stumped. Bought a vintage air hose/bead lock connector kit… my receiver drier and my condenser have a fitting that is the same as all the connectors that came with the kit, like female to female. So looks like a GM fuel bubble flare 3/8” from end with o ring. Can’t find a -6 and -8 union that fits
When you silver solder you have to get your fittings red hot in order for the silver solder to flow around the fitting properly
Awesome info
The comments are as good as the video, thanks @billcobb9408 for this comment:
"You want to use Harris 45% sliver soldier with Harris white flux. The lines need to be clean. Put them together, then put flux on the fitting, ( don't get flux inside the fitting). I use a small oxy acty. torch. Im in the Refrigeration heating and AC trade. I have welded copper to steel, copper to stainless, and stainless to stainless. Ok you have pretty much one shot at this. When the flux flows into the joint, touch the sliver solder to the joint, If you over heat the joint stop, It should not turn red, its over heated or if it turns black its over heated and wont flow. My torch is small. You can get the supplies at any United Refrigeration supply parts house. Some Heating and AC parts places may carry it as well, but not all do. You will control the heat by moving it away from the part, don't set the torch up to supper hot. 7 psi on the oxygen and 7 psi on the acteylen. I miss spelled it. Practice on a piece. You will get it fast."
have you ever checked with swagelok? They make the best tube fittings, tools, and accessories. We use them for semiconductor fabs, and such. There are knockoff that work too, but swagelok is the best.
Instead of TIG welding the ends on the lines; have you thought about using those 4 Seasons O-ring to flare A/C adapters, and do a 37 degree flare on the stainless lines?
Have a link?
Hello Alan, for brazing stainless lines, you have to prepare clean parts, then assemble them with flux between (only where you want solder at the end result. Solder want not stick elsewhere). Flux powder have to be mixed previously with water to a light paste viscosity. Need to be easy to apply and stay at the right place. Have enough powerful torche, so use oxy-acetylene. Warm up all parts together at the same temperature. Usually when the flux liquified you’re close to solder melting point. Have a look at any steel tube brazing videos, exemple: bike frame brasing. Use right solder material (material and melting temperature) and flux corresponding with your application. Regards
czcams.com/video/IuhXgooZTb8/video.html
I think "powerful torch" is definitely key. I've tried silver solder with MAP gas, it's just not hot enough. The oxy/acetylene is the only route that's worked for me.
I see your using regular propane gas! Try map gas! And you will be welding like a pro in no time! From a senior to a young whipper snapper.
I like your work! So why not use a ferrule?
Have you ever tried the Swagelok style compression fittings? They’re rated for high pressure, and avoid the welding/soldering troubles.
Im doing a custom install of a vintage air kit on a 86 c10. Now i feel comfortable doing everything from watching your videos and a couple previous VA installs. But i do have a question for you? How did you go about connecting you VA box to your bulkhead on the firewall? Could you possibly show some pics or something of your work behind the firewall? And 1 other question is do you say have to you hardline to connect say the VA box to your bulkhead? Thanks for any help or info and keep up the great work and videos!!!!!
Great question, I'd like to know as well.
Hey Alan, I've been watching your videos on A/C lines, LS water pumps AN fittings etc. Great job on your videos dude! I've done a couple of different LS swaps, and I'm currently doing one on a 1995 GMC Sonoma. It's been a fun project so far, and I'll definitely follow your suggestions on the heater hose AN fittings. I'm just wondering about a couple of things though. I'm using the stock heater core in this project, so I'll be using the regular 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses. But I do want to thread the water pump holes to 3/8" and 1/2" NPT so I can use the -10an male fittings. Where do you get the -10an female swivel to 3/4" 90-degree male barbed fittings to connect to the heater hose? I can find the -10 female swivel to 5/8" 90-degree male barbed fittings, but not the 3/4". Maybe I need to step up to a -12 fitting on the 3/4" hose?
Also, just a comment on using silver solder for your stainless-steel a/c lines. I'm not an a/c tech by any means. But a few years ago, I did install a heat pump into my house. It was a big project, and it took me a while to complete it. But the end result was good. In the process, I learned a lot about using silver solder, and building a/c lines. The reason that they recommend using an inert gas such as argon when silver soldering (or welding) these connections together is because of the oxidation and the scale that occurs during the welding process itself. It's not to prevent oxidation and scale that can occur later while in use. You're correct that oxidation cannot take place in the absence of oxygen. But it does form immediately during the welding process without using an argon or nitrogen purge. (There are some good videos here with using a nitrogen purge while silver soldering a/c lines) You don't want any pressure to build up, because that will prevent the joint from sealing. It's just a light flow from one end to the other without any restrictions to cause pressure. The other thing that I learned is that propane is simply not hot enough for silver solder to flow into the joints. I found that oxyacetylene was the ticket. I've heard that MAP gas will also work, but I've never tried it. It's interesting to me that when working with home a/c systems, they don't use fittings that can later be disassembled to service something in the system. But they do use them in the automotive industry a/c systems. This means that if my home heat pump compressor ever fails, then I'll get to split the system by using the oxyacetylene to open the joints. I wonder why they haven't stepped up to removable fittings? Thanks again! Jeff Gravel
I watched your video to learn a how to for my mexican beetle
project custom AC.
tge bug came with an under dash Evap/blower box a sanden compressoron the engine but with the dreaded R134 the condensor behind the rear cargo in front of the engine fan
poor performance
the upgrade involves the Rolls mock up hood im placing a condensor behind the grille and cut a hole behind the grille make a fiberglass panel behind that place a conde sor fan on the condensor cut in vents on the sides of tge hood and fill system with good ole R12 therefor hard lines inside the hood up to the hinges .the hard libes to the rear compressor on the engine . so i will have a functionol front condensor on a rear engine air cooled fake RR bug. its a future project several ahead of it.... pretty COOL huh
Hate to be a youtube expert but im an auto electrician that does a lot of aircon and i would highly recomend flushing those pipes with ac flush or atleast brake cleaner excpecially if not back purging. Also the silver solder try oxy acytline and get it much hotter
Yes flushing is advised, I didn't include it because it is something that should be done for all new lines and just felt so basic to me. I forget sometimes the most basic things are the ones newbies don't know.
As for silver soldering, I use Oxy Acetylene, just didn't film it. Didn't make any different. I've still gotten zero input that unlocked the mystery for me. It seems like one of those things an old timer likely has to SHOW me to get it.
I don't use flex when silver soldering ,it makes it not stick , I know its that way when silver soldering copper pipe and fittings together
Nice work- I found identical aluminum fittings without the nuts. So you could make an all aluminum line. These fittings either can be welded on or crimped on. I can get the steel male or female steel line fittings as well. They allow me to make original looking hard lines. Do you still think stainless would be better then aluminum if you knew you had that choice? Thanks again
I highly doubt that you'll have any problems with corrosion from not back-purging. You are correct that because the system is closed and full of refrigerant, there's minimal oxygen and moisture to create any significant corrosion issues.
like your stuff - where may I get hardline clamps to fit Vintage air lines?- any recommendations
*bombshell* ever considered ptfe stainless braided an line? 😅 all the specs are the same if u use the coated type. powersteering componants are rated for 3000psi.
Aloha. Have a question, with “universal parallel flow” condensers what is the orientation? #8 on top, #6 on bottom? #8 connected to the compressor and #6 connected to the drier?
I can tell you how to do the silver soldier lines
what wall thickness is your hard lines
what do you use to convert the Fittings that goes into the expansion value o-ring style
Paging through that 4 Seasons catalog that I mentioned / linked in the description and finding something that will work. Or taking the original line to a HVAC shop to either cross reference for a new part or repair with a new flex section. I've done all of those in the past. As well as cutting up a fitting and welding up my own adapter pieces.
9 times out of 10 anymore, I don't use factory AC components at all. Until I rehab everything, to work, convert it to R134a (which never works as well as R12 would have), and adapt parts, it just isn't worth it for the customer. I get that for people doing things on a budget it is different but time is money for my customers.
Sorry I just realized this is the Hard Line tubing video. I talked about adapting on the Soft Hose video you can find here: czcams.com/video/_Ot5MRB3sjw/video.html
I did it on my Truck AC Line, it was easy worked but wasn't clean.. 😂
do you USE/put FLUX on the tubes when welding (because I've noticed. plumbers always use flux on their copper pipes, even circuit board soldiers use FLUX, I BET YOU THAT'S PROBABLY YOUR PROBLEM WHEN WELDING)
I did in fact use flux specifically for silver soldering with stainless steel. Read multiple articles to pick the right flux before ever attempting.
Does flaring not work for these fittings?
Nope. You are talking far too much pressure to trust a single 37 degree flare. Some older AC hose setups use flared connections without o-rings but they are always aluminum which has more potential to “seat” better and it’s not a single flare design.
O-ring sealing is king on AC systems these days.
You should have used oxygen and map gas. Or oxy acetylene torch! Your fire ain’t hot enough!
I've used Oxy-Acetylene numerous times. I only used that torch for a demonstration purpose in this video. Easier than breaking out the torches again just to film a quick segment of a video.
Too bad they don't make a stainless steel sleeve to wrap lines to hide the less than perfect looking welds.
Wrong torch tip and too much heat.
He just an oxy/ac torch
Josey @weldingtipsandtricks has a good vid about brazing: czcams.com/video/no-OWfC5-RY/video.html
If it's anything like sweating copper pipes you need to have the joints together (with flux) when you're applying the heat. Also not sure if that propane torch will get it hot enough...
bernzomatic propane or mapp gas will not work! Get acetylene turbo torch or OXY/Acet torch. You will see good results.
so... I guess I have to ask... what do you do when you come across "non-standard" lines....? I have a 1994 Silverado that I LS swapped... the High pressure line between the compressor and the condenser, is NOT standard line.... By that I mean, I cut the rubber, flexible, part of the high pressure line... and when I measured the ID (internal diameter) of the rubber hose it comes out to .465"... What? That's between a #8 and #10 line? So, what do you do? You are F'ed! THAT'S WHAT YOU DO.... Luckily I have a lathe, mill, and can TIG weld. I had to MAKE my own in-lines by milling an in-line splicer from aluminum bar stock..