Good tip about the coupling you covered in a tube. I had one of the little " T" bars fly out on a run. They are only a friction fit. I use a bronze Octura 432 prop .The plastic ones can shear without hitting any rocks.Also I am convinced, having had my boat a year that the water mainly gets inside via the propshaft . It's not a big issue . Just a silly tip I found was if you catch a leaf or similar ( which really slows the boat) try just stopping the boat where it is ,wait a second and run again , the chances are that whatever it is falls clear and you can continue without bringing the boat to shore each time. Good stuff Larry.Keep it up.
Thanks for the shrink tubing idea. Cuts back on the grease spatter. I was not able to remove the set screws right out of the box. Seems like they used Loctite on it. So heating up the set screw makes sense but using a heat gun would not be a good idea with a bearing and plastic close by. I used a soldering iron on the set screw and this worked. After the set screw was removed the coupler would not come off easily on the drive shaft side. After I carefully did some pulling and twisting it came off. I had to bore out the coupler opening with a file so the drive shaft would slide easily off and on. Funny how the manual makes no mention of lubing the drive shaft only the coupler. This is so important to longevity of the bearing and shaft.
i had the same problem with set screw out of box tried solder tip as well but to no avail has to use screw extractor and drill witch destroyed both ends of coupler sad but true boat works great after the fix didn't want to send back for set screw. boat on jim have a good day
I use a sponge in mine to soak up water. I think the ft012 is always going to let a bit of water in. My theory being the sponge just stops the water sloshing about the electrics as much . Oh and one tip for all you ft fans. Don't go hard throttle everywhere , you will cook the esc. If you haven't already. They are a great boat when you have changed just about all the stock items.
Iv been running this boat for over a year. I run it on both 3s and on a 1500mah 4s and it screams. Got a built in cam for fpv and leds for night blasts. I have not come across anything better for $75. If there's anything better people, please let me know. Great little boat.
@@usasupra23the stock charger is a mess, i suggest you to buy an hobby grade charger (30 bucks for a cheap one on amazon), however with the included charger you can charge any 3s lipo battery. personally i wouldnt take any battery bigger than 2200mha or it wont fit in the stock ft012 cage
I have the TR-1200 which I think is the same boat as this. Can you recommend which battery to get so it fits still please? I’ll keep my stock charger since I don’t want to get out of hand money wise on this thing
usasupra23 i think any 2200 mah 3s is fine, on amazon there are plenty of them, 2200mah 3s lipo with a 30+ C of discharge. I will recieve my ft012 tomorrow, i will do some battery tests
I like this boat and have 3 runs with it. All 3 times I have had issues. 1st and 2nd runs the transmission pins flew out of the dog bone coupler. Fixed that with some piano wire. The 3rd time the damn prop fell off. I have had a hard time trying to fine a replacement nut. From what I am reading here the original prop is not the best and I am willing to upgrade to a metal prop if it is worth it. However I still need a the nut to hold the prop in. Any ideas as to where I can get the nut?
You must be going a lot faster with your reduced runtime. A GPS speed recorder like MRMAD2424 on CZcams uses would be ideal. Check out his ft012 vids & check his speeds. Your boat is running well & I like your mods. I ordered one of these 012s this week have a FT009, definitely going to get one of those GPS gadgets to check my speeds. I do believe speed is a tradeoff for runtime but you can always switch props❗
You can fit a 3000 amp battery. A few mods to the battery housing without any disastrous affects to handling. Any bigger , the lid won't shut. Good luck all you ft012 fans
I know its been a while but did you ever find a 32mm prop with 1.4 pitch... to me that should be perfect... main thing is cool temps... a quality 32mm with same pitch as stock 30mm should add a good amount of performance ..only other mod for performance would be a better quality battery... thanks for sharing
Hello I have a question so I can use my boat normally but I have to avoid using reverse cause it gets water inside? And the propeller it's ok? Or what is the problem with it and the steering is there a problem?
Hello thank you for your answer. So the only mod it's the propeller and put silicon on the back and in the middle of the boat for the water dont get in. The the rudder you sharpened with a knife or how did you do it and to tight it so it won't be lose how did you do it
Maiden voyage of mine yesterday had its ups and downs... I was adjusting my rudder trim and my fat thumb accidentally hit the controller off switch the boat went mental at speeds the boat hadn't hit before even when i ran it wide open, I frantically turned the controller back on hoping to connect nope... the boat was flipping around and came towards me I got some control back but no throttle control so I beached it in front on me and killed a prop picked it up popped hatch and disconnected battery. Replaced prop fins and hull where fine so I hooked up the battery again and gave it a test run but this time it ran twice as fast wide open. Can someone explain why it ran much faster the second time? (Same
@@larrys4227 another small question Larry, when you say you sleeved the rudder can you kinda explain it. I'm actually upgrading my ft012 and would like to perfect it the rudder needs love lol
Larry, I've seen so many clips of people trying to mod up the propeller. Frankly I think you're wasting your time. A bronze propeller , definitely. Good stuff mate
I think my propeller is 32 mm bronze Octura but same original pitch. So I've gone one or two mm bigger. The stock ones can sheer off without hitting anything.
TRY a .432 CNC , detounged prop, and watch the magic. It will be like a new boat. THE props are pre-prepped, but some additional balancing and sharping will make a big difference. It's fun boat. ALSO the 2 Blade TFL .434 may also work, but might -cause some heat issues. IT all comes down to how , the ESC deals with the bigger prop load. THE unit uses a combo , ESC , and receiver , and I don't care for that kind of setup. If you are running hard on 3S, you should be running at least a 60AMP, or preferably , 90AMP. I'm running a 120 Amp, and can safely do 4S , on bursts, but , not sustained. Happy racing.
usasupra23 definitely don’t use the reverse if you can help it because if leaks through the water cooling tube, rudder arm, and the hole to remove water, if you wanted to do reverse them you should seal these with silicom
Okay I didn’t use reverse at all and didn’t flip at all and it still fills with water. I made sure both lids are tight and I can’t see where it would come in except what you said. I will silicone those spots and pack grease in prop and see what happens next. What exact grease do you use for this boat? Also there is no battery alarm, it just goes into limp mode so you can bring it back?
I have the FT012 it is fun but the Esc is not that good I changed two and now I can't even find Esc for my boat anymore. Banggood or other websites don't have it. I'm well disappointed that I can't use my FT012 anymore. Can anyone help?
USE a Dynamite 60AMP, water cooled, and a separate water proof, receiver , and your back in business. THE hookup is simple. Channel 1 , is your steering, and channel 2 is your speed controller . The whole fix takes minutes.
Sometimes the upper half of the hull isn't glued properly to the bottom half. Don't run in reverse as it will come up the prop shaft tube. It will come in through the steering arms too
I noticed water coming in by the shaft, I tried putting some marine grease around it on the outside not sure if that will work. Any other ideas to make it more watertight around the shaft area?
Anyone ever had problems with intermittent drive , press trigger sometimes is fine, 2 seconds later no drive with trigger pressed. then it will work for few seconds then nothing. The steering is not effectected , batteries okay.I looked at connections , they seem fine. Not sure what to do . Any help?
wondered About wot iv fited it to 1 of 3 the FT012 I have an it works the same as stock motor as for the battery it will depend on if u have 1st gen ESC or 2nd gen. Gen 1 had 40A to 45A the 2nd gen is only 30A max so no big batter in 2nd won’t work u blow the stock esc
Good tip about the coupling you covered in a tube. I had one of the little " T" bars fly out on a run. They are only a friction fit.
I use a bronze Octura 432 prop .The plastic ones can shear without hitting any rocks.Also I am convinced, having had my boat a year that the water mainly gets inside via the propshaft . It's not a big issue .
Just a silly tip I found was if you catch a leaf or similar ( which really slows the boat) try just stopping the boat where it is ,wait a second and run again , the chances are that whatever it is falls clear and you can continue without bringing the boat to shore each time. Good stuff Larry.Keep it up.
Thanks for the shrink tubing idea. Cuts back on the grease spatter. I was not able to remove the set screws right out of the box. Seems like they used Loctite on it. So heating up the set screw makes sense but using a heat gun would not be a good idea with a bearing and plastic close by. I used a soldering iron on the set screw and this worked. After the set screw was removed the coupler would not come off easily on the drive shaft side. After I carefully did some pulling and twisting it came off. I had to bore out the coupler opening with a file so the drive shaft would slide easily off and on. Funny how the manual makes no mention of lubing the drive shaft only the coupler. This is so important to longevity of the bearing and shaft.
i had the same problem with set screw out of box tried solder tip as well but to no avail has to use screw extractor and drill witch destroyed both ends of coupler sad but true boat works great after the fix didn't want to send back for set screw. boat on jim have a good day
Awesome boat bro!! Thanks so much for sharing!! Mine should be here tomorrow!! God bless you!!
How’ve you been liking your boat?
I just got one few days ago I heard they updated a lot of stuff in the past year on it?
ye they did i just got one today!!!
Looks great!
Nice is the prop a right hand or left
Think a plastic 3 blade 32mm 1.4p prop would do any good? Or would it be too hard on the motor with the extra blade and 2mm of size?
What off the shelf battery can I upgrade to on this? Got a link to a good bolt on prop?
I use a sponge in mine to soak up water. I think the ft012 is always going to let a bit of water in. My theory being the sponge just stops the water sloshing about the electrics as much . Oh and one tip for all you ft fans. Don't go hard throttle everywhere , you will cook the esc. If you haven't already. They are a great boat when you have changed just about all the stock items.
Iv been running this boat for over a year. I run it on both 3s and on a 1500mah 4s and it screams. Got a built in cam for fpv and leds for night blasts. I have not come across anything better for $75. If there's anything better people, please let me know. Great little boat.
Kyle Fpv on 4s??
@@andreaghezzi4282 Amazon got me for $140 for this boat, damn it. What drop in battery can I get that works with the stock charger?
@@usasupra23the stock charger is a mess, i suggest you to buy an hobby grade charger (30 bucks for a cheap one on amazon), however with the included charger you can charge any 3s lipo battery. personally i wouldnt take any battery bigger than 2200mha or it wont fit in the stock ft012 cage
I have the TR-1200 which I think is the same boat as this. Can you recommend which battery to get so it fits still please? I’ll keep my stock charger since I don’t want to get out of hand money wise on this thing
usasupra23 i think any 2200 mah 3s is fine, on amazon there are plenty of them, 2200mah 3s lipo with a 30+ C of discharge.
I will recieve my ft012 tomorrow, i will do some battery tests
I need to actually put this boat to work doing something . Is there any way or sorce for a power prop instead of a speed prop for this boat ?
I like this boat and have 3 runs with it. All 3 times I have had issues. 1st and 2nd runs the transmission pins flew out of the dog bone coupler. Fixed that with some piano wire. The 3rd time the damn prop fell off. I have had a hard time trying to fine a replacement nut. From what I am reading here the original prop is not the best and I am willing to upgrade to a metal prop if it is worth it. However I still need a the nut to hold the prop in. Any ideas as to where I can get the nut?
Boat is relaxing and does not even need tires!
So what’s the gps top speed ?
Any idea where you got the copper tubing for the rudder? I was looking at mine and it's definitely a little bit loose
Copper tubing is available at Hobby Lobby, or your local hobby shop
You must be going a lot faster with your reduced runtime. A GPS speed recorder like MRMAD2424 on CZcams uses would be ideal. Check out his ft012 vids & check his speeds. Your boat is running well & I like your mods. I ordered one of these 012s this week have a FT009, definitely going to get one of those GPS gadgets to check my speeds. I do believe speed is a tradeoff for runtime but you can always switch props❗
You can fit a 3000 amp battery. A few mods to the battery housing without any disastrous affects to handling. Any bigger , the lid won't shut. Good luck all you ft012 fans
I know its been a while but did you ever find a 32mm prop with 1.4 pitch... to me that should be perfect... main thing is cool temps... a quality 32mm with same pitch as stock 30mm should add a good amount of performance ..only other mod for performance would be a better quality battery... thanks for sharing
What's that's sleeve that you have over the coupler in the middle? I bet that really keeps the grease In there! That's awesome..
Is it a peice of plastic?
Its a piece of heavy duty heat shrink tubing.
@@larrys4227 thanks bro!
Hello I have a question so I can use my boat normally but I have to avoid using reverse cause it gets water inside? And the propeller it's ok? Or what is the problem with it and the steering is there a problem?
I wouldn't go reverse unless absolutely necessary.
Hello thank you for your answer. So the only mod it's the propeller and put silicon on the back and in the middle of the boat for the water dont get in. The the rudder you sharpened with a knife or how did you do it and to tight it so it won't be lose how did you do it
Maiden voyage of mine yesterday had its ups and downs... I was adjusting my rudder trim and my fat thumb accidentally hit the controller off switch the boat went mental at speeds the boat hadn't hit before even when i ran it wide open, I frantically turned the controller back on hoping to connect nope... the boat was flipping around and came towards me I got some control back but no throttle control so I beached it in front on me and killed a prop picked it up popped hatch and disconnected battery. Replaced prop fins and hull where fine so I hooked up the battery again and gave it a test run but this time it ran twice as fast wide open. Can someone explain why it ran much faster the second time? (Same
You may have hit the little speed regulator dial.Mini twisty knob.it can do that. I leave mine at 12 o'clock
Seems faster than my ft012 hmmm where did you get the prop?
I believe I got that from Offshore Electric
@@larrys4227 you dont by a chance have a link to their store or a link directly to the prop do you?
@@edwardmyers1746 ... Not off hand. When I get a chance, I'll see if I can find the order
@@larrys4227 another small question Larry, when you say you sleeved the rudder can you kinda explain it. I'm actually upgrading my ft012 and would like to perfect it the rudder needs love lol
What battery should get for my stock boat, 2200 25C or 35C?
The higher the "C" rating, the better.
@@larrys4227 will it not overheat the engine what about the 4S 25C 5200mah
Larry, I've seen so many clips of people trying to mod up the propeller. Frankly I think you're wasting your time. A bronze propeller , definitely. Good stuff mate
I think my propeller is 32 mm bronze Octura but same original pitch. So I've gone one or two mm bigger. The stock ones can sheer off without hitting anything.
TRY a .432 CNC , detounged prop, and watch the magic. It will be like a new boat. THE props are pre-prepped, but some additional balancing and sharping will make a big difference. It's fun boat. ALSO the 2 Blade TFL .434 may also work, but might -cause some heat issues. IT all comes down to how , the ESC deals with the bigger prop load. THE unit uses a combo , ESC , and receiver , and I don't care for that kind of setup. If you are running hard on 3S, you should be running at least a 60AMP, or preferably , 90AMP. I'm running a 120 Amp, and can safely do 4S , on bursts, but , not sustained. Happy racing.
My boat is stock and takes in water and doesnt make sharp turns, what am I doing wrong? Maybe reverse is pulling the water in?
usasupra23 definitely don’t use the reverse if you can help it because if leaks through the water cooling tube, rudder arm, and the hole to remove water, if you wanted to do reverse them you should seal these with silicom
Okay I didn’t use reverse at all and didn’t flip at all and it still fills with water. I made sure both lids are tight and I can’t see where it would come in except what you said. I will silicone those spots and pack grease in prop and see what happens next. What exact grease do you use for this boat? Also there is no battery alarm, it just goes into limp mode so you can bring it back?
I have the FT012 it is fun but the Esc is not that good I changed two and now I can't even find Esc for my boat anymore. Banggood or other websites don't have it. I'm well disappointed that I can't use my FT012 anymore. Can anyone help?
USE a Dynamite 60AMP, water cooled, and a separate water proof, receiver , and your back in business. THE hookup is simple. Channel 1 , is your steering, and channel 2 is your speed controller . The whole fix takes minutes.
@@marknickells6097 he will also need a different radio and rxsince this is a 2 in 1 setup rx and (esc are one piece)
Hola amigo, hermosa lancha yo tengo una igual me encanta usarla. mande like y suscripcion, espero la suya en mi canal. gracias
Does it have lipo cut off?
Yes it does.
@@larrys4227 wasn't sure, I usually times my runs, roughly 6 mins on the stock lipo, 10 on a 3s 2200 mah
hi mine everytime run its full of water inside dont know from were come
Sometimes the upper half of the hull isn't glued properly to the bottom half. Don't run in reverse as it will come up the prop shaft tube. It will come in through the steering arms too
I noticed water coming in by the shaft, I tried putting some marine grease around it on the outside not sure if that will work. Any other ideas to make it more watertight around the shaft area?
Anyone ever had problems with intermittent drive , press trigger sometimes is fine, 2 seconds later no drive with trigger pressed.
then it will work for few seconds then nothing. The steering is not effectected , batteries okay.I looked at connections , they seem fine. Not sure what to do . Any help?
I had a similar problem the plugs to the receiver to the esc might have corrosion and not making a proper connection
@@owenmussig6705 It's the esc . The stock ones are not brilliant.
I got a ztw shark marine 40 amp water cooled with reverse. It works
If you need help setting up a new esc just ask
14.8V KV4000 Outrunner Brushless Motor For Trex 450 RC Model Helicopter An try 4s 14.8v
It all fits
John Oconnell I wondered about that!
wondered About wot iv fited it to 1 of 3 the FT012 I have an it works the same as stock motor as for the battery it will depend on if u have 1st gen ESC or 2nd gen. Gen 1 had 40A to 45A the 2nd gen is only 30A max so no big batter in 2nd won’t work u blow the stock esc
John Oconn
John Oconnell ohhh. I have that with my box of helicopter parts. (That is what I end up with any time I try flight, parts...)
@@johnoconnell3459 how can i tell if i have 1st gen or 2nd gen??
Mau
thats slow, my friends is much faster stock. seems your prop isnt balanced so its not at full rpm as i can hear it
DAT Blue Husky where can you get a good replacement prop that comes balanced instead of the piece of shit one that comes with it.
Rc Car guy eBay
I didn’t know they had to be balanced will the Cnc ones off eBay work there like 15 a pop?