How to Install Bevel Cedar Siding - Building a Shed Part 6
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Your one-stop-shop for what you need to know about installing bevel cedar siding. I love cedar. It's rot-resistant, lightweight, absolutely beautiful, bugs don't like to eat it, and just overall so wonderful. If you're installing a cedar exterior, check out the tips in this video to do it right.
Interested in learning more - lots of videos to check out in this playlist!
Part 1: How to Construct a Skid Foundation and Shed Floor • How to Construct a Ski...
Part 2: How to Assemble Roof Rafters with Gussets • How to Assemble Roof R...
Part 3: How to Frame Shed Walls, Windows, & Doors • How to Frame Shed Wall...
Part 4: How to Raise Shed Walls & Roof Rafters • How to Raise Shed Wall...
Part 5: How to Apply Plywood Sheathing & Vapor Barrier • How to Apply Plywood S...
Part 6: How to Install Bevel Cedar Siding • How to Install Bevel C...
Part 7: How to Install Roof Underlay, Drip Edge, & Shingles • How to Install Roof Un...
Part 8: How to Install Recycled Windows & Doors • How to Install Recycle...
Part 9: How to Build a Simple Shed Ramp
The feature-length project build: • How to Build a Cedar Shed
The 4-minute time lapse: • Building a Cedar Shed ...
And here's a fun video to check out. From a productive discussion thread in the comments below, a viewer put together a video finding a solution to his cedar siding project. It's a good case for owning a multi tool! • The Right Tool for the...
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Contact me: midwestmanmountain@gmail.com
Instagram: / midwest_workshop_and_g...
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The iCreatables plans I used to get started: www.icreatables.com/sheds/8x1...
My favorite CZcams playlist for shed building references: • How To Build A Shed Se... - Jak na to + styl
Epic video! I have to refinish someones Redwood shed. The previous builder did not treat the wood and used a finish nail gun to install the boards. No corner trim and boards are coming out. You touched on every single detail that I wondered how to fix. This is my first time doing this, but I now feel so confident getting it done. Couldn't have taken this project on without watching this vid. THANK YOU SO MUCH! Your shed looks amazing and the humor made the video more entertaining! I will surely watch the rest of the vids around this project and I am now a new HAPPY subscriber. Be well!
Awesome, thanks man! Good luck on your build.
@@MidwestManMountain Thank you very much!
Absolutely beautiful and great explanation with a touch of humour. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you.
You were the most helpful from all the other videos I watched.
that was a great instructional video, I have installed a lot of cedar, mater of fact I have 5500 linear feet in my trailer right now. I like the look of the finish you used. I typically always back caulk all my ends, but joints, n window trims with tan big stretch caulking. it blends nice, flexes with movement, n if you caulk prior to installing laps you don't see as much caulking but still gives you a watertight seal! beautiful lil shed
Great video and well done. I appreciate the quality of your work.
Thanks, Robert!
Excellent video. Thanks for making this, and thanks for taking the time to explain how you made and used the jig to set the subsequent overlapping boards.
This is an excellent tutorial, thank you!
Thanks Ian - glad it helped!
This is a great video! I will use the techniques that you have shown. Everything was so clearly explained. Thanks for sharing this. I have a smallish project that I am starting tomorrow and a much larger one in the next few years. This was really great for understanding how to best do this. Noting that you need to start with the edges is something that I had thought about but didn't realize that I needed to do until you showed me. Thanks again!
I'm glad this was helpful! Best of luck on your project.
Great video. Very straight forward!
Danke Christoph.
Beautiful shed Kris.
Excellent. Very helpful. Thank you.
Best practice for the door and windows is to make a story pole. It will ensure you hit the edges perfectly for drainage and aesthetics.
yes sir..
I moved from AZ to PNW. no finer smell than some fresh cut cedar. I'd bask in it if I could lol. great video.
dude your videos are awesome. I love your creativity
Thanks buddy!
I flashed every seam and I bought rolled aluminum and vertically flashed behind the corner trim and siding where they meet. I also calked it. Seems to be nice and dry without any issues.
Nice!
Nice job 👍
Great job. Thank you
Hey thanks! Happy building.
To bring back the natural cedar look on the old fence and compost bin, you would power wash, apply a wood brightener, and wash off. Then apply stain once dry. I like Baker's Gray Away. Stains will last longer than clear coats.
Good job
Beautiful work! Did you go back and use any caulking at corners, windows and where the siding meets the gable fascia?
Au top, c'est Vraiment bien fait !! I'm going to do quite the same un the garden but more little, really Nice bro. Nice talking to👍
Merci
Looks great, what stain did you use?
Awesome job. I'm thinking of using something other than your method and use a different type of wood... My friend does custom.cuttlikg of logs and got a good deal on either pine or hemlock wood. I ordered 25 boards at 10ft 1" thick and only paid 5.00 each. I'm in Canada and we get brutal winters. It will be going into a shed and looking forward.to something better than that fake stuff I currently have on it lol.
Your video has helped me truly to decide on how to do the process!
Thanks again for an awesome video and the hard work u did.
I'm envious of your lumber supply! Sounds like you've got a terrific project ahead of you. Thanks for watching this! Glad I could help in any way.
@@MidwestManMountain how's the shed ? Has it held up?
@@ricardo19851 it’s doing great! Looks so beautiful amongst the snow and rime.
No silicone or other sealant at the ends of the boards and around windows?
Great video, I'm making a Cabana in my back yard next to my pool and want to do Cedar siding. One question though, was there any reason you didn't put the nails in the top half of the siding and then overlap the next piece so you can't see the nails in the top of the board?
Excellent question. That was my initial thought too, but in doing some research I learned that you are supposed to nail through at least 3/8" worth of material. I didn't get that thick until mid-way down. The hold would have been too fragile and precarious had I just nailed to the top. Have fun building your cabana!
Hello, curious how it looks today? Please and thanks.
Great video, did you use a caulk along the edge of the cedar siding and the trim? Our home has cedar siding and we need to redo one side of the home that faces the southwest. I agree with you, there are not a lot of videos out there talking about installation process on cedar.
Thanks for watching! No, for this shed I did not caulk along the edges. It was one more step that I didn't think was necessary for this particular build. I remember thinking that the caulk would just deteriorate as the shed shifted over the years. For me, the vapor barrier is good enough protection for the sheathing underneath the siding, and I'm also not concerned about it being overly airtight. A house though...that's a different matter. I'm afraid that I don't have enough experience to give you any good advice.
Would it possible to use non beveled cedar like pickets? And just overlap them to give a similar aesthetic?
What stain did you go with bud ?
Do you mind sharing the specific product you used to seal the siding? I haven't been happy with the deck sealing things I've tested - we have cedar flooring on our porches and I would love to get that color to pop like yours.
I used Thompson's clear sealer and have the same amber color he has.
Use Panofin transparent Western red cedar exterior stain and sealer. It will look nearly identical to the color in his video if that's what you want. It's twice the price of Minwax but best there is. It's what pros use. $50 typically per gallon if you can find it locally.
Did you above the overlap or did you nail with the overlap?
I'm also installing cedar siding on my home. The instructions for fastening the board to the wall said the nails could be hidden under the next overlapping board. Do you have any recommendations about nail placement?
Good question, I had the same conundrum. In the end, more material that I referenced online led me to nail the boards in a spot that was about 1/2" above the top of the lap below it. Yes, you see the nail, but it provides a more snug fit for the siding overall. Remember to use stainless steel nails. Also, I guess it depends on the width of board you're using. Here's one recommendation on spacing that I saw echoed across other channels: www.realcedar.com/siding/installation/profiles/bevel/
No, you never blind nail cedar siding. Nail placement should be about 1/2 inch above the under-coarse (so you don't double nail the boards)
What kind of stain or poly did you use? I’m literally ordering 2500 sqft of cedar lap tomorrow for a strip mall. Love how yours turned out.
You've got a fun big project ahead of you! I don't remember the exact type that I used fo army project, but I know that it was for exterior cedar decking and wood siding. I used a clear finish, as opposed to anything with a tint. The finish is oil based. Thanks for watching the video, and good luck on your build.
You don’t want the bottom window trim to overlap the sides for drainage purposes.
good point. What would be your solution, as to also not compromise appearance?
What is the name of the finish that you used?
How many days did it actually take you to finish all the siding & trim(including applying the sealer treatment)?
I really don't remember. If I didn't say it in this video or the other ones, the best that I can say is "a few days". I don't remember it being more than three days at the most. I probably did two sides per day, and then finished it with trim on day three.
I know this is late, might not get seen, but...since you're nailing the siding to studs anyway, do you really need the sheathing? It's needed for cedar shingles (duh) but I was hoping to save some $$ if I put up siding instead.
Yes, you still need sheathing. Sheathing is extremely important for shear strength of the building and will keep your building from falling over. Please don't skimp on your buildings upfront cost if you want it to last.
You also should put a house wrap on the sheathing. Get a wrap that had a good permeability rating that late air out but doesn't let water into the sheathing (Tamlyn makes a good one but is a little expensive).
Nailing the siding into the studs helps the siding stay on more than if nailing into the sheathing and will make sure you have fewer penetrations into stud bays.
If you brace your frame with let-in braces like the old framers, you can side it with just cedar and skip the plywood sheathing. It worked for centuries. 🤷
What thickness is your trim board? 1inch(.75) or 3/4(1/2)
1 inch
Where are the joints? I only see full board lengths. Did you scrap the rest?
I'm doing a house that is 26' x 40'
My boards are approximately 16' to 20'
Where would my joints be?
Looking for any pattern for my joints
Hi Claude. I didn't have any joints to worry about. The 12' boards covered my front and back, and the 8' boards covered the sides. I burned the scrap cutoffs that were just a few inches long. I'm not sure what pattern you'd use for anything longer in your situation. Good luck!
I would do a 16+10 for the 26, but alternate so your seams don’t line up 16+10, 10+16 etc. For the 40’ I’d probably go 20+20, 10+20+10 and repeat -OR- add some 16+8+16, 12+16+12’s
Typically you just don’t want your seams to line up vertically.
@@joelbeets too little, too late Joel. I finished the project almost a year and a half ago.
What I struggled the most with was, on the bevel joints.
I ended adopting a 45° cut along the 90° bevel cuts. Making sure the bottom board had the 45° cut facing out and the outer cut sat on top of the board that was in place.
And I didn't make any boards typical, like 10', 20', 10' on a 40' run other the first few rows.
Thanks anyways. 😉
Big question!! How much it cost you all the Bevel cedar siding?
We just priced up 3600 sf of 8" Prefinished cedar bevel siding and it came out to about $8.50 per square foot including freight shipping.
Great video! Question: Our entire house has cedar siding, and I'm wanting to install three very expensive Franklin Iron Words - Hickory Point 12" High Bronze LED Outdoor wall lights, Style Y6996 on the existing siding. The problem is that the mounting plate is 9" long and my siding is only 6 and 1/2" wide. Can you tell me what the best tool is to use to cut the siding for the 9" by 5" wide mounting plate? Thanks!
A multi tool would be your best bet. As they have the most flexibility and precision for applications like this one.
I'm with Emmanuelle on this one. My first thought would be to grab a multi-tool and very carefully carve out the space. Just be careful. My biggest fear cutting out something like this would be water creeping back in. Let us know how it goes when you're all done!
Thanks guys, as it turns out I did go to Home Depot and bought a DEWALT Multi-Tool with a DEWALT 20V MAX XR Battery, Lithium Ion, 5.0Ah (DCB205) and a charger. A fairly expensive investment, but I have nearly all the tools a person could want but that was one I didn’t have. I too have concerns that water will leak down in between the siding and the lamp so will use some kind of clear waterproof filler in that area.
@@RegisteredMail1 Good luck!
@@RegisteredMail1 that's probably your best bet, but it wouldn't hurt to put some sort of sealer on your cuts before you put any clear filler/caulking. To avoid wasting too much caulk, throw some backer rod in the gap of its larger than a quarter.
What stain did you use?
No stain, just a clear oil sealant. :)
Uh... how is this suppose to shed water with no space behind the siding?
Just pressure wash that fence and seal or stain it and it will look like new.
Actually instead of using a brush try a sponge
Stopped at 58 seconds. Holy cow! Your corners look way off.
This is good but your shed needs more windows if you are going to AirBNB it one day.
(In Christopher Walkenese):
you know?, ….you could change your cadence just a bit, & sound just like….Christoper Walken.
Just needs more cow-bell.
For one you're hand nailing... Maybe next time get a compressor and a hose out with a pneumatic nailer if you want to save time
I just bought cedar & nails. The nails they recommended are not available for nailer usage...atleast not where I live.
Cedar is better hand-nailed. 🤷