Ford E-350 sway bar bushing in a twin I beam suspension
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- čas přidán 30. 05. 2015
- Had to replace these bushings. The drivers side fell out but the passenger side seemed to be fused to the inside of the axle. I had to use a die grinder to get all the rubber out. I also took the steering linkage off to get it out of the way.
I'm doing a complete front end rebuild on a 2002 E250 using Energy Suspension poly bushings.
The first step in the instruction sheet for the sway bar bushings says "Remove sway bar and O.E.M. shell from I-Beam".
I removed the shell, cleaned up the hole with a wire brush, lubed the hole and the bushing, and it went in with no problem using a block of wood and a hammer and it fits perfectly.
You mentioned that the new polyurethane bushing is too big for the hole. Actually, if it's the right bushing, it will go in the whole just fine AFTER you remove that metal sleeve that was around the old rubber bushing. Rubber bushings are meant to have a metal sleeve around them. Newer polyurethane bushings come with no sleeves and are meant to be used without a sleeve (per Moog tech support).
Other than that, the technique shown with the bolt and washers would probably be a pretty simple way to get this done, especially if the bolt was sized a little better (shorter) so that you could keep using the impact wrench.
this guys middle must be Einstein because he is a flipping genius. I used thread rod and washers with my impact and voila! Use a rachet strap to hold pressure on the sway bar while you push it up and down to install it into the swing arm bushings and its pretty simple, Thanks Einstein, your the bomb Jerry in Texas
After much checking online, it appears that yes, one needs to pop out the smooth, metal bushing/sleeve before installing the new Moogs. The Moogs have barbs that snap onto the other side of the I beam. Also, without the metal sleeve, they pop right in with whacks from a mallet. Bosch sds hammer drill and spade bit got it started coming out, the rest I did with a hammer and punch. Reinstalled the sway bar by wiggling the driver side in first and then the passenger side. I didn't take off any steering things.
Walmart sells an “air hammer” (works with air compressor) for $30-$40.
You can probably rent one (possibly free) as well.
VERY GOOD THANKS FOR THE INFO 😊☺️😊
Thanks so much for the blot press tip. it worked for me
Thank you! You sweet SOB
Well this video was very helpful are used a lot of the information off of it I found out instead of using the long ball or you can use a bout a 2 1/2 inch to 3 inch bolts with washers and that works a lot better it doesn’t you so much space and you can put the head of the bolt to the front instead of the threads to the front also
On that note as well he forgot to since he’s using Moog bushings to remove the original metal sleeves that go with the other pushing Moog bushings require no sleeves
I myself use the air hammer or air chisel whatever you wanna call it remove the old ones put a little grease on the back of the new ones tighten down in there like he did pretty much just a little different hardware and it worked perfectly so his idea is very good
Great video very helpful thank you sir
that's how i did mine. first set lasted 2 weeks. second set crumbled during installation. going to try the metal / rubber ones
to make things clear:
there are 2 kinds of this bushings for the sway bar
1 with bushing gleed to the metal sleeve, you have to remove both metals sleeves in order to put the new ones, cut them with a sawsall.
the other kind, rubber bushing is easier to install. You have to clean all. Before putting the pieces in place, lubricate them with W40 or any lubricant oil, otherwise, won' t go. Some people uses silicone lubricant.
Another thing to consider is:
THE SWAY BAR of the FORD F350 and E350 are very different. The E350 has the round bushings that you see in this video and 2 others that are split to install it with a metal clamp, while the F350 is another type where you have the tie rod ends conected to the end of the sway bar. Both are differen types. some are confused, i see at athe comments.
I was wondering would you recommend just getting the rubber bushing an pushing it in. I already bought the bushing that comes with the rubber included. I tried hammering it out. I dont have a press. Maybe this would be easier.
I just replaced the rubber bushing. The metal ring was left there but had to be cleaned with a die grinder.
Can I ask you how did you put the bar back in?
I learned something yesterday. There's two different bushings for this application.
One with the metal sleeve and one with out the sleeve. I used the one with out the sleeve in this video.
They were crap and continued to work there way out. The other type with the metal sleeve was put in yesterday.
Which required the old sleeve to be air hammered out.
mark fix how did you get the ones with the metal sleeve in? I can only get both of mine about half way then they stop..
How did you get the bar in there? I have been bang on it and it’s so tight with them I can’t get the bar in
@@timothyjburton i got the first side in by holding the bumper and shoving it in w/ my feet. second side required a tourniquet made of a dog sheet and a hunk of rebar
I bought poly bushings just like shown above but discovered the metal sleeve shown needs to be removed prior to installation. I tried a press to remove but had much better luck with cutting one side with a sawzaw and bending in the lip with a punch. Be careful the sawzaw can also cut into the Ibeam.
How did you drive the new metal sleeve into the I beam ?
Thanks, helpful video. Did you pop out the tie rod? Looks like it but figured I'd ask anyway.
did you have to cut out the metal frame from the previous bushing (where it sticks out on the other side) for the replacements to fit?
Did you press out old bushing or just grind out rubber and press new bushing in. I did this today, pressed out old bushing and new poly bushing went in easier than yours?
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
John, are you sure about this ? It looks to me like the hole would be to large for the bushing if that sleeve came out.
Then it would just flop around like the original worn out bushing. Have you got a picture ?
Well Bruno may have misconception of the non bonded bushings...I prefer the TRW OEM style but if installing the "newer" style red poly unlike the, what appear to be the Movitech GK80222 you MUST keep the OEM bushing Sleeve. As one person pointed out the moog and movitech have barbs that need the sleeve out...the RED Polly do not, are smooth with lip to hold in the OEM sleeve...I prefer the bonded cause, like Bruno, I just am old fashioned...THANKS for you help Mark...I use deep impact sockets as spacers over the long bold so I could use the gun and the deep socket on the nut all the way...when I have air. Again, Thank Mark..Like Designedin69, I will beat the hist out of it and then use larger socket about 1-7/8 or 2" to transmit the force to the metal sleeve...press would be ok if off but a mallet would do but a lot of man power or girl as the case may be...need to keep an open mind...the times they are a changin. I give Mark a BIG thumbs UP! There are 3 styles and no instructions. OEM, barbs to hold in the I-beam and the RED Poly that need the old sleeve in tact. The OEM bonded Press fit lasted 20 years without PopPinG OuT
is there a shell to like the axle pivot bushing
So, it looks like you left the metal sleeve in. I have the same bushing and it doesn’t fit with the sleeve.
Had a hell of a time getting the sway bar in after pressing the new bushing into the old metal sleeve.
The drivers side bushing fell out. The passenger side had to be cut and ground out with a die grinder. The rubber was some how bonded to the steel.
In the photo it looks like you left the original metal sleeve that they rubber bushing was inside of?
the removal of the old ones can be done a bit easier with a sawsall and a short metal blade and 2 small cuts on the bottom of the old bushing to the I-beam or front differential if you have a 4x4 conversion and then bang it out from the rear with a hammer or air chisel..
Thanks!!!
Hey mark, how did you get the sway bar back into place? Even with the suspension entirely dropped, I can’t seem to get it lined up to bolt the top brackets in and force the sway bar into the bushings.
So how I did it was the passenger side first. I got both close by jacking up the driver side tire. Then I got the passenger side in and set. Then I was able to get the driver side in by rotating the front end part of the bar up and at the same time pull the pointy part down. It got lined up. Then I pulled them in using some CGU-1/B (Ratchet Straps). I couldn't get them to go easy, even with some silicon grease. Hopefully this will help the next poor sod who needs to do this and doesn't have the money for it to be done professionally.
So in this video you replace those bushings. Did you replace them because of a low speed wobble? That's my problem I have!
One more thing this is also to Mark fix the reason why that bushing was popping out on you was because again you did not remove the metal sleeve from the previous bushing that was in there that’s why you’re pushing kept popping out
You have to remove the metal sleeve
铁衬套没拿出来，你怎么安装上的胶套？我看了你的视频，始终没有安装上去。
get the whole sleeved bushing freeze em over night. get an air chisel pull tie rods off knuckle pull swaybar off completely air chisel the old sleeves out. get a socket that fits around the metal sleeve hmmer em in lube the sway bar ends put them in bushings might need a hammer to get it in far enough then put it back together
THIS GUY IS AN IDIOT
This helped me replace mine in my 2000 e250. How did you get the ends of the sway bar back into the new bushings? mine doesn't want to go in.
I'm in the process of doing on my own and believe that I'd need to use some silicone spray on both the sway bar ends and the rubber.
Gotta remove tie rod ends first.
why? ive removed my sway bar without removing the tie rod ends.
Bet that fix lasted better than 3 miles
How do you get the sway bar back in with all the tie rods and stuff im literally sitting here right now scratching my head
THIS GUY IS AN IDIOT
No he isn’t. It is so tight, I can’t get it to go in either.
a set of progressively smaller bolts. switch them out the closer you get to finished
Did you shave that little lip off the bushing? Because I have tried till I'm blue in the face I cannot get the new bushings into that hole for Nothing in life!
If you had removed ALL of the old bushing, including the sleeve, you wouldn't have had so much trouble installing the polys 😂
That's the easy part,how did you get the sway bar back in those holes??
I just did an 06 E350 today. I burned out the old bushings with map gas then used penetrating oil and 2 hammers to smack in the new ones. To get the bar back in, I jacked up the van at one of the I-beam pivot points. It is easier to put one side in first be swinging the bar and then jack it up until the other side aligns. Just don't jack it up on the beam itself. It must be at the pivot point.
Marc Smith this worked like a charm! Thanks
What is that press tool you are using?
Albert Rhodes
He is not using any tool he made his own with a bolt, washers n nuts
I wish you show how you got the bar off and the old bushing out.I also wonder how hard it is to put the end of the bar into the new bushing . any advise?
Ralph R. Gotta take out tie rod ends. Sway bar comes right out. After to take bolts out of course.
not necessary. remove the two bolts on the front (total of four) sway bar bushings. then pull it out. easy as pie. no need to remove tie rod ends.
yeah there is no way you press sleeve in with tie rods on and if you did I wanna see it
@@ionman333 It is called a big bolt, nut and big washers. I have used them also removing and installing knuckle shock bushings on Nissans.
Putting the bar back in is easy if you jack up the van at an I-Beam pivot point. This will send the van up but keep the wheels down creating a better angle to get it back in. I always find it easier to put on the driver side first and then swing the bar up and over the right drag link and then jack it up at the I-beam pivot point until it drops in. I have customers with fleets of E150s-450s and I have never removed the tie-rods to replace these bushings. Although it is easier if you are replacing the inner and outer tie-rods to do them at the same time.
Marc smith I had her on the lift it was super easy to just bust the stuff off and get her back together took about a half hour
you make it look too easy. i tried your method and still had problems. you should tell people to use a thick heavy duty washer. or else it just bends.
guy, you need to fix the screwdriver
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unless you take the metal sleeve out youre wasting my time watching this video