BestChoice Jeep Complete Weelye esc wiring walk thru with 12v to 24v conversion for any kids ride-on
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- čas přidán 25. 11. 2020
- Best Choice Jeep wiring Walk Thru Explanation P1
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QUICK REFERENCE:
01:15 - 12V Setup
06:50 - Steering
07:34 - Pedal
0830 - Shifter
09:00 - Power Button
09:30 - Hi/Low
12:20 - 24v Required Parts
13:55 - Installing 24v Parts
24:10 - 24v/12v Regulator Install
35:00 - Completed 24v conversion Harness
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Best Choice Products (BCP) Jeep Wiring Walk Thru
This Video explains the Weelye stock RX-19 12v ESC Wiring Harness and upgrade to
Weelye RX30 24v ESC. (including voltage regulator to keep stock 12v accessories)
Video Starts with the Stock Weelye RX-19 ESC and wiring Harness Explanation. This is the 12v 2 motor port ESC very similar to the to weelye 24v RX-30. Most people that upgrade will only have the single motor port ESC which is fine.
Parts Used in this Video:
-Weelye RX-19 with Complete wiring harness
-Weelye RX-30
-On/Off switch
-Hi/Low Switch
-Shifter F/S/R
-Foot Pedal
-2 x 12v Batteries
-24v to 12v regulator
Parts List Needed for 24v Upgrade:
-Weelye RX-30
-Hi/Low Switch
-24v Gearboxes w/motors
-2 x 12v Batteries
-1 24v to 12v Regulator (only 1 needed, NOT needed for steering servo)
Steering servo fix video:
• Best Choice Jeep Steer...
7 Pin Lipo Harness:
Https://a.co/d/4QN6WRQ
24V550 18000RPM Gearbox w/Motors
a.co/d/dIqgVdE
(ideal for upgrading)
24V550 30000RPM Gearbox w/Motors
a.co/d/a8DEFRY
(may have loss of torque on steep inclines but should have higher top end)
WEELYE 2 Pcs hi/low Switch
a.co/d/gjHj9gO
24v Charger w/auto charge feature
a.co/d/aUiU4AD
I used 12v MightyMax as additional Battery to run 24v. 12v x 2 in Series;
Battery size slot 1 fits:12v 9ah (stock)
Battery size slot 2 fits:12v 10ah-12ah
a.co/d/j7oaBkI
Weeyle RX30 ESC controller
a.co/d/1D8vxqD
Regulator 6 Pack LM2596
a.co/d/64u8iPb
On 24v Weelye RX30 if converting from stock 12v steering servo motor, the polarity is reversed so flip the wires to get it steering the right way. (Steering will be much more snappy with 24v just a heads up) a voltage regulator can be used. When installing the motors, make sure the wheels spin in the same direction. Before soldering the motors exactly as the stock gearboxs had them, check to see if there spinning the same direction, so check it before you finish. You also need to get a mini 24v to 12v regulator on Amazon 6pack is $10. Any 12v electronics that come stock or that you add should run thru one. I did this and forgot to test it and it burnout my custom rollbar lights. Also vehicles equipped with a Weelye 24v come with a hi/low switch which i would install to have a 2nd speed.
*Note:
If you have a 12v ESC and are upgrading to 24v you need to setup your battery voltage to output 24v with a 2nd 12v battery ran in series, other wise this ESC wont perform the way you want or not at all. You also need a 24v charger but one can be had at amazon for cheap.
*The motors on these gearboxs are stock and are cheap. You can always upgrade to a better quality 550 size motor or longer 570 with a bit more torque and it should bolt up to the stock or aftermarket gearboxes. 775s style motors will not fit in these gearboxes.
Weelye RX30 24v ESC Pin out
Pin#1 - hi/low ( - )
Pin#2 - Reverse to ( - )
Pin#3 - Forward to ( - )
Pin#4 - Ground (also used to connect to Pedal for pins 2+3 on Shifter and hi/low switch)
Pin#5 - not used
Pin#6 - 24v switched power in(+)
Pin#7 - 24v power out (+)
Heres a folder of some wiring pics and Diagrams that may assist you if needed for my jeeps:
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photos.app.goo.gl/WTM3ZtgMVfs...
*POST PICS OF YOUR RIDE HERE for troubleshooting or just to share:
photos.app.goo.gl/oj5kBWeh8Wx...
Some other 18v and 24v projects:
BCP Jeep Rear Axle Replacement
• BestChoice Jeep Bent/B...
24v Conversion Jeep in action
• Best Choice Products P...
Arctic Cat UTV - • Project Arctic Cat Con...
Brute Force Quad w/ Weelye RX30- • Video
*don't forget to like and subscribe!
I've gone down about 12 rabbit holes on this project and this is my favorite video thus far. Very well explained. You're saving fathers around the country lots of time. Thank you.
You're right about the rabbit holes on these things. I just need a how to and a parts list and it's been so difficult to find.
My daughter's jeep had the led 2 speed shifter and the circuit board went out. I purchased a basic Fwd Rev shifter but had no clue how to wire it till I found this vid. Great job thanks!
Bought all the stuff to replace a dead battery in my kids powerwheels jeep (or so I thought)... only to realize it had this type of harness and control module. I wish youtube had given this video in my search earlier, you just saved me a ton of time not having to figure out the harness! Thanks so much for this!
Glad it help!
This was exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you for the great video and layout.
Somehow, even with this excellent tutorial I still managed to spend about 20 hours on this project before claiming success. I've learned I'm not good at soldering, and to check a fuse instead of buying a new multimeter thinking the cheap harbor freight one was broken when no voltage was going to the 30 rx unit. Thanks for taking the time and putting this together.
Thank you
Very helpful video which helped me to wire my RX37! Very much appreciated!
Bin searching for ages for s wire harness like this because the electronic regulator on the existing is shot. Today I found the wire harness on AliExpress and this video on CZcams. I guess it's my lucky day and the complete set is 24V not like the original 12V. The only be thing what I didn't consider is that I actually need the 12V for the radio and lights. Lucky for me I watched this video now I only need to find the additional resistor. But now I know what to search for and I can also check on Amazon and eBay. Thanks for the great video 👍.
No problem, glad this helped. Any questions just ask
Anyone have an issue with the push button becoming hot? Did this exact conversion, running the regulator in between outgoing power from power button and radio/lights. Wires all feel fine, just push button seems a bit hotter than it should. Tsgraphics thank you for this vid! Gave me the confidence to do the conversion. Daughters expression was priceless!
I've haven't heard of this but you can always swap it out for a better built one or one that has a higher voltage rating
Fantastic demo how things work,gold star rating
Mine didn’t have the hi/lo in it and the wiring coming from the controller seemed a lot different than your setup. It wasn’t as “cut and play” so I ended up just buying the whole upgrade kit on Amazon with the correct wiring components. I’m sure I could follow each of the wires but that just seems like trouble waiting to happen as I’m a rookie when it comes to electrical. Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful either way
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch.
I just really need to know what to cut and splice.
1st red wire going to module.
2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch.
3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev.
* I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch.
And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Great info, great video! Thanks!
This is amazing, thank you so much for the info!
Thank you so much for your help, I found an old buggy type car on the verge that was left out in the elements for years and with your precise instructions I managed to get it going with a new wiring harness off amazon and a lot of disassembly and assembly
learning as I went along and now a piece of junk is now going to find a new home for a little one somewhere. so greetings from Mandurah in Western Australia Stay safe and well.
That's awesome great work feel free to post a pic/video in the Google Photos link
Thank you for your reply, I would like to get the lights going on this car, is there a replacement item for either the globe or the light that could be ordered on line somewhere, many thanks.
I just realised my little car is similar to the one on your video thumbnail, but black and white, cheers.
@@Max46423 what light are you referring ?
Sorry the little front headlights, round shape
Wonderful instructions
Thank you! Detailed explanation.. I want to commend you!
You really went all out on this! You sir, are the GOAT. I know we spoke of how the forward/reverse lever works off of grounds, but when I first hooked up 24v without the regulator it seemed to have burned up the Forward/reverse switch but only one polarity not both ways. I've replaced it now and currently running at 12v until I complete the upgrade and is working. My question is, is there anyway it could have actually burned it out? It was working fine before I fried everything haha. I think that's where some confusion came on upgrading it for me when looking at the other video/pictures as I saw no connection to the lever from regulator. If it only works off of grounds is there something I'm missing? I will hook everything up like you did when I get the time, but I don't want to ruin another lever and have to keep my daughter waiting even longer haha. Thank you for the time you've put into this I really appreciate it, you've done an awesome job. Seeing the harness out and the connection of the regulator answered all questions about the placement immediately. Now I'm just unsure of burning out the forward/reverse again, though if I do it's not like they are very expensive.
@Frank Torrano I think you'll be fine. You maybe over thinking it. I tried to explain how the wires interact with the ESC for knowledge, hoping not to confuse anyone. Follow the layout and you should be fine.
Does anyone know the amperage pull of the 24v motors? I would like to power the jeep with a 40v kobalt battery but need to ensure I can get a step down converter with appropriate amp rating
Ours has all the grounds go to the on/off switch, then the ground out from on/off switch goes to the high/low, then high/low to the module
This is crazy!! 45 min video? I feel like I need an electrical engineering degree for this!
I feel that bro
Its a full walkthru reason its 45min. also in the description are time stamps if your looking for a specific part. Most people don't understand the function of the rideon system, this explains the parts, what they do and why. So for installations and troubleshooting this is good base knowledge.
Hi my friend and Thank You so much for this video, my upgrade went pretty well because of this video. I only have one question and that Is driving me crazy, now my son's jeep is a bit faster then I was thinking and tried hooking up the yellow wire as you directed and it seems to slow down a little but not as much as i would like. I have tried installing a PWM so i can turn down the speed to the motors and this worked perfected. However doing this caused him not to be able to go in revers for some reason and lost his gas pedal. So the way i have wired up the pwm was taking the wire that plugs into the motor port on the rx30 and cutting it now putting quick disconnect on the two ends one going into the rx30 port then wire into the pwm input. next running out of the pwm connecting directly to the wires going to the motors. like i said this worked perfectly i was able to slow down the jeep but I no longer had gas pedal function or reverse. Any tips to help with this would be greatly appreciated .. Thanks a million again you are a life saver for sure not mention a mentor to many!
PWM is a one way feed usually. The rx-30 reverses the polarity of the motors for reverse. Maybe search and see if there is a model PWM that will also sense the switching polarity when switching to reverse. Otherwise I'd just remove it
Very nice video
Why does the switch need to have 24volts going to it? Couldn't you put the volt reducer on the red and black wires coming from the controller?
What an awesome video! One question, would it be possible to just add a separate 24v battery and plug into a 24v motor and have that separate circuit be controlled via a relay. That relay would be in place of the 12v control board engine connection. So I would still leave a small 12v battery in the system to run the radio and control board and have a separate 24v circuit running the engines?
I'm sure you could but it would defeat the purpose of upgrading the stock parts. As in you would be making a custom system
Great details on the video with explanation. I have an electronic 12/24vdc controller on the kidszone jeep my granddaughter uses. JR1927M-Z. Is there a harness/ kit that interfaces with that controller and remote. I’ve already purchased the 24v 30000 rpm motors/gearbox. Thanks
Remember the 30,000 rpm motors at top end will be faster but you will lose some torque depends on weight of child and terrain on how much it will affect start speed
Amazon has Weelye kits that include every part included a harness but none with just a harness only. Tho you can get the Lipo pin Harness as listed in the description
Great video! Thanks for the wiring diagram.
Is there any chance you’d know if a brake reduction system could be fitted to this? I only have the two wire pedal, similar the diagram you have. Not the three wire plunger pedal that works with the MLtoys module.
That's because the brake module they make is not for use with ESC it's for battery direct units. The ESC in the best choice models have the brake built in. The only way I would think would be to add a capacitor on each motor lead to lessen the brake. tho I can't be sure if it will work and with which capacitor size cause I have never attempted
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch.
I just really need to know what to cut and splice.
1st red wire going to module.
2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch.
3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev.
* I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch.
And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Ya anything that's still getting 12v needs to off the regulator
BMW i8 coupe steering box and steering shaft gear, provide a link to where I can buy them please
Yes. Been 2 years in the making and them here u come to show me just about all I was needing. The thing I'm needing to know is I'm gonna use the rx-30 on a 4x4 system. Will 24v 22ah battery be enough? Plus the premade wire harness that comes with the rx-30 and 4x4 setup doesnt gave the radio and light pig tails. I theory I should be able to wire the 12 reg somewhere into the power switch to when the switch is on its providing power to the regulator and onto the accessory? Does that sound correct to anyone. I dont wanna fry any control boards or solder anymore blown capacitors. Lol. Had one blow off the board and put a hole right in the case. Replaced the 330uf and bam. Back rolling. Board has a over draw problem tho and that's why I'm changing everything out.
Ya it should be good
Did you get this to work with the 4WD?
tank you for your video very professional i have a mercedes and i cant get my power steering to work will you help me
What's wrong with it?
My power wires from the rx19 run into the radio then is dispersed through out the car for lights. The on /off switch is in the radio. Do I need to install a separate on/off switch then use a step down out of that to power the radio /lights? I have the rx30 and I'm starting this install. I think if I step down from the rx30 to the radio that the rx30 won't get a 24v signal to start.
I think your correct if i am understanding you right. If the red and white wire go to you radio. then the on off will be 24v and there no way to separate. then I would say yes I would add a power switch. Then separate your 12v radio from the new 24v wire. The regulator would be after your new power switch. split it and have 12v regulator to your radio and the other wire will route back to your rx30.
You post some pics in the Google photos link so we can get a better look but I think your on point with this.
Amazing video. But my shifter has the low and high mode on the shift. Is there a way for me to connect a pedal regulator instead of one that is just on and off
No that would be a variable switch in that case it would be a completely different system setup. Most common is the disassembling of a drill. Using the trigger as a pedal switch and a direct battery hookup not needing a ESC because you are using all the drill internals. Not sure about the pros/cons of that setup tho.
Have upgraded an rx7 board to rx74(has rx30 printed on it so i believe 74 and 30 are same thing)
Issues: My car which is a range rover type copy has a D1 D2 D3 speed dial on the dash as well as reverse and brake. When hooked up to this new board the car takes off without even pushing accelerator when set to any D or reverse setting. Also doesnt sound to change speed when flicking between 1-3 with wheels propped up.
Issue2, remote appeares to bind/connect to board but the car doesn't respond to any steering or drive commands from the remote.
Anyone have fixes for these issues or do i have a faulty board or incompatible car?
Can i convert a 24v to 36v by just hooking up to 18v batteries ?
Good to know about the 12v for the radio and lights. If the radio is upgraded to 24v, will the lights still need to be on 12v? Had anyone put the lights and radio on a separate battrey?
ya anything is possible. video is for best and simplest install hange over. still need 12v unless you upgrade those too. I'm sure amazon has 24v leds. separate battery is possible but then extra switches and wires plus I recommend small battery to reduce the weight if separating the lights
Hi how would you go about lowering the voltage for the steering motor? Ive also done the rx30 conversion from. A rx18 but when using the remote it turns too fast.
Try this: czcams.com/video/wIuo2gSvvOs/video.html
I have a 6v car Do I still need to upgrade the board if I’m only doing a 18v swap?
Ik my lights would get fried so I was thinking about getting rid of the accessories completely and not hooking them up
6v motor on 18v battery would not work. Also the stock board will fry only good for 6v
Also Weelye doesn’t make a 18v model. You can attempt to use the 24v model but no guarantee it will work with 18v
Thanks For the content! Is there anyway to make the braking softer so it puts less strain on the gear box. I’ve looked into ML toys brake module ( which is a resistor ) but requires three wires. Doesn’t work with this set up. Do you have any idea how ?
Unfortunately there is no way to add a resistor on a board controlled ride-on without sacrificing speed. Theoretically the only way to brake softer would be to is to add some sort of capacitor near the motors using some sort of capacitor meaning adding something that stores just enough power for the motor to draw from when the power is cut. I'm not sure if this will actually work on a board controlled unit. I would advise against it. I have not tried this.
I have found that on the remote at least, if you tap the forward button a bit instead of just letting off, it comes to a gradual stop. Instead of snapping their neck. So maybe pumping the brakes or gas would help?
24v, and the motor connections aren't powered (yet?). the remote/receiver flashing thing still doesn't do anything. As a separate question, if I have the receiver all hooked up as you specified does and get the tx paired does that deactivate the power on function of the receiver?
The remote has a pair button hold it down till it flashes, then turn on the Jeep it should link right up
Nice video, you very intelligent. Just wondering if my ride on has 4 motors 12v and 2 batteries 12v what charger should I use 12v or 24v, also if I changed my rx19 to rx30 what charger to use with the 2x12v batteries please
Something like this that does 12v or 24v is what I use. This way you can do either depending setup or multiple rideons
www.amazon.com/dp/B0856ZW6SR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Great video thank you. Anyone has ideas on how to tame the snappy steering after the power upgrade?
czcams.com/video/wIuo2gSvvOs/video.html
@@Neonjer11 Thank you, another very helpful video!
This question isn’t so much related to a 12 to 24v conversion but I was recently gifted 2 of these Jeeps. They are several years old and the wiring is shot in both and just needs to be redone. I have a new 2 and 3 year old and they aren’t quite ready for a 24v yet. If I wanted to completely rewire these as a 12v, what would I need? I’m lost on which parts and wiring harnesses to order.
Just get a full harness and controller with everything on Amazon from weelye
What awg cable to connect 2 batteries?
Just got a 12v Jeep for my daughter and want to do this mod and more :)
This is a great tutorial but the wiring pics and diagram link is broken. Any chance you could fix it please?
Ok link updated just add yourself to the folder and you'll be good
When talking about switching the polarity when upgrading form the 12v do you mean the blue and brown wire that plugs in to the controller?
Also my forward and reverse are switched on the controller. Do I just sweaty the placement of the wires that connect to the 24v motors I put in?
The remote is an over ride from what the kid does in the truck.
When talking about the polarity being switched:
Some 12v weelye models when converting to 24v the steering can be reversed for the remote (left & right) just switch them and it will fix it if they are backward.
As for the motors. Same thing the motor lead can be switched just make sure everything works properly for the rider
I have this Jeep but mine does not come with the HIGH LOW SWITCH. It has a shifter that is HIGH LOW and REVERSE? Do I need to make a separate switch like you have in this video?
No it the same thing just all in one. If you have a weelye control board(esc) it should be plug and play less the 12v accessories that require a regulator
Does anyone have any experience with upgrading this to a 20V dewalt battery?? i tried adding one and put a motor controller after the dewalt battery but the RX-19 doesn't like the 20V ( even though with a load on in its set at 13v) after this, I tried to put a 20 to 12v (480watt 40A) transformer in the vehicle. Im having issues now triggering the resettable fuses. I think this is due to the fact that the output of the transformer is 12.2V and the stock batteries are typically just over 13V even though they state that they are 12V. Any ideas or tips???
Go with the RX30 it's good for 24v you can use 20v on it from what I've heard. This not sure how your 12v motor will hold up
Great video! I am looking to tackle this 24V upgrade soon. I have a couple questions regarding some of the components:
1. Can I use the stock 18ga wires for the battery and motor wires? If not, should I switch for 16ga or 14ga?
2. (only if i need to switch the wires) where can I get the terminals for the wire connectors or proper ga pigtails with connectors installed?
You can use the stock I haven't had any issues. If you did want to upgrade you only need to upgrade the motor and battery leads.
Thanks for the quick reply. I, like a previous comment mentioned, was thinking of just placing a 12V regulator on the red/blk coming from the ecm, going to the power switch. But you mentioned the white wire feeds the voltage back to the ecm and it needs 24V to function properly.
This got me wondering could I just use the 12V (RX-19) with a 12V regulator placed as mentioned above? The ecm will have its 12V (coming down the white wire) and the 24V won't hurt the system as it just passes through to the motors once the relay is triggered. What are your thoughts?
Just peeked inside the RX-19. Looks like the relays are only 15A instead of the 30A/40A inside the RX30, so guess it may not work...
@@wevans4007 ya you could try that. Tho not sure the reason of that? I assume because you wanna use the drill batteries? It could work of you set it up right
There is a 2WD/4WD switch on my son's Blade XR 2.0 4x4, as well as 3 selectable speeds (R-P-D1-D2-D3), would the RX30 support those two functions?
I have no clue. Lol
I’ve got a Uenjoy Jeep. Switched out to 24v motors. The 12v setup had both motors wired to one plug going to speed controller. With R30, do I separate the motors and plug each one into its own hole on R30?
It shouldn't matter
I have the rx74 and it has the hi low switch but the car stays on full speed with the remote and with the pedal. I bought another kit , the same. Same issue. Don’t know what else to do. If u would help i would so appreciate it
I am not 100% on an RX74. This Video was based on a RX-30 24v model. Id need much more info to help.
Exactly what I was looking to do to re-assure myself in my planning of my project. we took the exact same approach. Do you mind updating the amazon links? I cant decide on a 24v charger. I did upgrade the wiring from battery to ESC/controller and from ESC/controller to motors for less voltage drop.
I'll check it out
What about the best choice variants that have the on/off button integrated into the lights/horn/engine control board? Can this board handle more than 12 v?
I just did a 24 volt conversion on mine with the same set up you have and it fried the control board immediately. I'm also wondering how to make this work
So bc of the esc and lights and everything would if possible to wore those completely independent to a 12v battery and then use some drill battery(still undecided on brand/vol) to run the the rc car?
Not sure I understand. you could run everything on 12v independently but that means you'll have to rewire the entire car for the drill batteries to go directly to the motors. Kinda defeats the purpose of upgrading your esc
Great video. I have a couple questions:
I would like to keep the remote steering capabilities. Do I need a regulator on those wires too, to step it down to 12v?
Also, is the charging port useless after the upgrade? I see your amazon links are to a generic multi-voltage charger, something that doesn't look like it would plug into the charging port.
So I have a video on the steering plz check it out and see if this is what you need.
The charging port can be replaced I recommend adding a new one or just directly charging the battery individually(12v) or together (24v)
@@Neonjer11 You're awesome! Thanks!
I've replaced the rx 43 for the rx 30 and I get nothing ? Am I missing something. I also have an adjustable regulator between the board and 20v dewalt battery.
Well not sure why you have a regulator between the unit and the battery? The unit requires 24v to operate. I assume this is your issue
Do you know if the weeley 24v gearbox and motors fit a Moderno jeep?
Not sure
I am back and happy to report your help was very much appreciated. I have the Power Wheels both running off my Ryobi 18v batteries but I appear to have burned the motor on the Dodge Ram Kids Trax. Do you have a recommendation for the gear box and motor for up to 24 volts?
Are they both Powerwheels brand? If so 7R gearbox made for 17t pinion. Install your choice of 24v. Peg Perego brand uses "Johnson" they are very reliable. tho any 550 or 570 motor will work. Hope this helps
I have a quick video on the Powerwheels Bruteforce completely overhauled. Has the same setup. The thing is a beast.
Also the stock gearboxs should be fine since the RX30 has the slow start. BestChoice Jeep have the cheap gearboxes and they work just fine
Also the 570 is a little bigger and is the same fitment size as a 550 if you need that little extra torque
@@Neonjer11 ok thank you for the information. I'll check them out. The Trax, I don't think they are power wheels brand. The Dodge seems to go by Trax everywhere I look and the green buggy with two speeds halls ass but I got it at Costco and when I search for it online I don't find much in terms of support or information but the gear boxes look similar to the weelye options on Amazon.
@@AlexErika ya the cheap one use Weelye products
here goes...a completely off the wall inquiry, I would like to try adapt a RX30 receiver to power and control via bluetooth my outdoor train locomotive(s).Obviously I won't have a forward reverse manual control or foot activated throttle connections. My limited understanding of the wiring you have in the video doesn't make me feel competent to hook up experimental connections, however, it does look like I'll need some sort of connection(s) on the 7 pin connector to get things to operate. Any clues would be immensely appreciated.
Pin 6/7 would be your + on/off button or switch
Pin 4 is ground -
Pin 3 is fwd and need to be grounded to engage the motors to work.
Pin 2 reverse(wouldn't use for a train)
Pin 1 if grounded will give you low mode
Tho other than pins 7/6 all the other pins really don't matter if you use the Bluetooth remote as that will override all the pins functions
Hope this helps
I am planning on following your outline - Very well done !
Recently I am having issues with the ESC lights staying on regardless of the switch being turned on and the radio unit does not work. I think the radio unit is shorted out somehow.
My Question - I have looked for replacement radio unit pcb boards but I have come up empty on my 16hour + of searching.... have you come across replacement radio units or maybe have a schematic of the board ?
Thank you.
Which radio do you have? There are a few different kinds. Most likely you can find them on Aliexpress if Noone else has them
@@Neonjer11
The model I have is: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082D4CYBP/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
It seems that the majority of the radio units are the same between these 12v ride on brands (weelye, BC, etc...), with slight differences. If I was able to find one for sale I could make it work. I am not able to locate any radio units .... Was hoping you may have found a site or link in your electrical adventures.
Thank you for the quick reply !
The only identifying part number on the radio PCB is :YJ-205BT-12V
@@ryanrymerson2263 a.aliexpress.com/_mPDrYaw
What if the fwd rev is in the radio will it still work or do I have to add that separate
I'm not sure. But i would assume you would have to separate
Hi I don’t know if I can do this and I thought I would ask you since your the best teacher I’ve seen on this topic. I have a power wheel and I am trying to do a ryobi 40V conversion. My question to you is can I add a ryobi 40V convertion + a voltage regulator to step down to 24V + a remote control box. Will this be too much for the harness or can I do it? If I can, could you do a video of all that or explain the order starting from the battery…
I am not 100% sure but I assume you can step down the voltage to 24v if you get the right step-down regulator. Some people have had successfully done this but I am not sure of the parts used. Good.luck
Hi, i would like to know what is the main reason to change 12v to 24v? i just dont undestand this point of view.
related to 12v Weeley, what is your opinion for RX37? from 12v models, what is the best one for you?
Depends on what you wanna do. 24v is obviously is more powerful. The 12v weelye ESCs are good, each unit from Weelye has a certain rated watt and amp rating, this will depend on how far you can push you ESC before it goes ☁️POOF☁️. HE a better ESC will allow you to change to more powerful or bigger motors hopefully with out issue
Working on this conversion now. Just want to confirm, the original 12v motors had some 7amp fuses connected, new motors have no fuse. Do these fuses need to be added back, or just wire new motors directly?
I current have the same fuses the stock setup had. Not sure if they are 7amp. I just left them as is and added the new motor/gearbox setup replacing the stock parts
What a great video to learn from. I have a little bit different wiring harness that I’m trying to figure out for my daughters Best Choice Range Rover. The power on/off switch has a bunch of wires coming into it and I’m not sure which ones to cut to be able to put the 24v-12v resistor on. Any way you might be able to give me some advice? I have a picture of the wires going into the on/off switch
@@joshosich22 post them in the Google photos link and will check it out!
@@Neonjer11I’m not sure how to do that.
@@joshosich22 there should be a link in the description
@@Neonjer11 thank I posted there
Is the upgraded speed control necessary? Im wondering if i can just change to 24v gear box and motors and run 2 batteries in series and be good. I mean the 18v battery on the stock 12v system increased power and speed by 50% so i wouldnt see why it wouldnt double doing 24v. The problem is i burnt up my 12v motors lol
does your setup have a speed control?
Hi you did not mention the fuse,do you have to upgrade the self setting fuse?
No on mine I did not. Haven't had an issue
Hi. I have a little question because i am on a car repair with this diagram. How id the current arriving on Forward-back Switch/high speed low speed and the pedal ?:) Thanks !!!
There's no current it's all grounds -.
I’m needing to change the steering drive unit on the Jeep but struggling with getting the wheel off. Are you familiar with how the steering wheel can be removed?
If I remember there's clips on the back collar side of the steering wheel push in and pull. There's a wire there that connects the horn, buttons. Now there should be a nut or pin holding the wheel collar on, should be good after that
I hate to ask something that's already been answered but I'm not sure it has exactly. So if I'm wanting to just go the simple route and use 18v batteries ( have plenty) can I use the stock ecs but include a step down for the 12v accessories? Is it better to run the weelye rx30 with 18v instead of the stock one even if I'm not running 24v? Also assuming I made the transition from 12v to 24v what batteries are people using? I love the idea of simple reliable quality 18v tool batteries that charge quickly. Thanks for your time and I appreciate the video.
Sorry just noticed you mentioned mighty max batteries for the 24v system, are you aware of lipo alternatives people might be using?
-I'm not 100% sure on the 18v. Ive never ran a drill battery thru a esc/controller. Tho I have heard some people say it works. Not sure of the model esc there using tho, and how long it lasted.
-Any thing above 12v (aka q8v,2rv etc) on 12v rated equipment i recommended using a step down regulator if you increasing total vehicle voltage.
As for reliable batteries I've been using the MightyMax brand seem to hold up well for the price. Run time on 24v is 30mins or so and on a 24v quick smart charger there good in a few hours. Typically my Kids don't hold interest in driving to much over the 30min threshold so I never really run in to an issue with run time.
-Just my personal choice i only use 18v on vehicles without ESC Controllers for that reason they were not made for that. If something goes wrong its time and money wasted. Tho I'm sure people have setup that run 18v with controllers i know you could use a Motor Speed Controller on Amazon. Power wheels motors usually draw 27a 230w of power. So get something that can handle more then that and you could wire one of the with your lipo I assume, they are like 12v-48v input and variable output. Ive only do 1 install with those it worked but I like the rx30 better. Seems to to the job at 24v.
So I plan on using your setup but with 18V. I want to use 18V primarily because I have a bunch of extra 18V Ryobi batteries. What are your thoughts on adding a PWM motor speed controller wired between the RX30 to the motors, that way the system is at 18V, the electronics are at 12V with the regulator, and the motors have a PWM that I can manually switch between 0-18V?
Nope 18v will be to.slow it's a 24v system. Adding a Pwm will confuse the RX30 and not work. Either one or the other. can't use both. If you go PWM there is no need for the RX-30
Trying to install this on a roleplay GMC denali and would like to keep the existing charging port any advice
Not sure which port type they use but Amazon may have something that fits. If you upgrading the charger figure out what connecter your gonna use and maybe expoy or JB weld a fitted piece for the charger port
I'm not sure if this question was already asked( looked but didn't find)... Will any 24v to 12v converter work? To run the lights, radio, 12v accessories, ect.. I was looking on Amazon and I have a choice on a 5A or 10A.
Ya it should be fine unless you add crazy stuff to the car
When charging the batteries in series, will the charger you recommend stop charging on its own? At what voltage? Mine showed 27.1 volts before I disconnected it fearing it was too high
It should stop once fully charged
could i use a 48V to 24V Converter Voltage Regulator so i could run one of my 48v Ryobi battieries insteand of the 24v battery. My grandson 4x4 BTGC car has a motor on each wheel and it goes through a battery in about 15 minutes
I don't see why not just make sure the voltage regulator you get is half decent I wouldn't buy a sure cheap one, lol
Wired a Dewalt 20v battery to and ran for maybe 5mins then stopped. While looking up the issue, found how easily it was to fry the ECM. Tested motors with a 12v battery and motors worked fine.
So i bought a RX 30 from Amazon and installed it with all stock components, just unplugged lights and stereo. Jeep still will not move. All thermo fuses are good. Any ideas?
Trace the wiring, chance that your power pin pin 7 runs thru the radio? Make sure pin 6 has power after its powered on
Quick question does this rx30 controller need the High/low speed selector to function. I have zero issues running the 12V version but between two rx30 all I get is a clicking noise when pressing the pedal.
Any response is highly appreciated! Thanks
No a hi/low is not required for the RX30. Also the rx30 is a 24v system so 12v will not be enough power to run it. Hope this helps
Interesting, I have the system fully converted to in series agm batteries with 24v to the controller. Need to poke around the other inputs with a meter to trace down what's occurring when applying the pedal. The original 12v controller was a best choice JR1958RX-2S. No issues with running this controller and was able to run at 24v for a short time. I'm guessing one of the inputs are swapped.
Did you have any issues with the 7amp thermal circuit breakers?
Are those stock ones? If yes, no never an issue
How is the braking after the conversion? More harsh? And is there a way to improve braking or removing it in this set up? I understand the mtl brake module doesn’t work in this setup but I’ve been trying to brainstorm ways to adjust the braking
Well braking is set by the esc. The mlt brake mod doesn't work because that is not made for esc devices, only direct battery.
Hi there, I've just picked up a 12v 200w rx34... I love your video and it has explained almost everything I need to know, my only concern left is that my rx34 has a 7 pin connector instead of a 6 and I don't know what the 7th pin goes to... I assume the pins should still run the same as you've described them from left to right but that leaves me with an exposed pin and no idea what it's for, hope you or someone can help!
Please add pics of your wiring to the Google Photos help folder
@@Neonjer11 done ☺️
@@willtrench4819 You need to verify where those wires are going to in order to make sure the cross reference rx30 wiring is correct
What If you wanted to put a 3 wire throttle In place of the pedal because I was looking to swap this into my son’s 6v motorcycle would the throttle take the place of the high/low switch and the pedal together or does It not quite work that way?
Also I would probably have to find a way to wire the foot brake Into It so It would not come to a rough stop?
anything is possible but I wouldn't waste time on a 6v
My son ripped two wires out from under the hood. I'm stumped. One of them is the blue wire from top right side another a red from plastic square that has multiple red leads coming from it. One is already attached to the battery. The blue from the upper left is already attached . Any help would be great. Thanks
Blue is usually the antenna coming from the radio the other one might be powe wires for accessories. I can only guess without pics
Hi what gauge wiring do you recommend if running 12v only and if using 24v? thank you
Stock wiring on the Best Choice should be fine if you want you can upgrade your battery and motor wires if you want all other wires should be ground only or 12v.
Want to do this upgrade but nervous about all the lighting I've added. I think I'm gonna try adding a 18v milwaukee battery to run the motors and then keep the 12v battery to power my rollbar, strobe lights, rock lights and radio. After repainting and adding as many lights as I did to my godsons jeep I'd hate to ruin them!
18v will do the same just not as fast if you dont add a voltage regulator your 12v electronics will break, they are made for 12v. When you see people add a drill battery thats 18v, usually they won't have any esc or electronics that are 12v. There rides are pretty much direct to the motors. No bells and whistles. Hope I explained this ok. Good luck with your mod. Any questions just ask
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the reply! I've been thinking and maybe I will use a step down converter and plug the 12v power and ground into a fused distribution block. Then all my lighting will be fused and 12v and it saves me from using multiple converters.
@@jamieplourde3782 ya sounds like a good plan voltage regulator is key to not damaging your 12v electronics
@@Neonjer11 I forgot I have the power distribution block in place already. My godsons only 2.5 and doesn't go out at night but his jump his lit for anything and everything!
can I just leave pin 1 Open if I don't have the high/low switch? I plan on just swapping the board and factory wiring doesn't have the high low switch. I apologize if you went over this in the video but I kinda skipped through it.
Yes if you leave it out it's the same as having it in the Hi position
@@Neonjer11 I have a fuse that goes from the power button to the headlight on/off switch. Does that get brought in to the stepdown or leave it as is?
@@BEASST I would keep it on the 12v side
Hi, im new to this thing, i just got a power wheels boomerang. Could i use it to power all 3 Wheels?
I would assume you can tho you would have to rewire. I'm sure powerwheels has different wiring setup
I just completed the 24V upgrade with new RX30, new RS550 30K RPM motors. Have done a couple of test runs in the backyard on St.Augustine grass in about 90 degree weather . ECM seems to trip after about 5 - 10mins of use. It resets pretty quickly, thinking it may be over heating. Motors get 135+ degrees also.
Wondering if it's the terrain, ECM, bad motors, or something else??
Ya possibly terrain but may be faulty motors is most common issue
Thanks. I'll start with some replacement motors.
@@wevans4007 are the motors 24v or 12v? if there 12v they will probably overheat and potentially trip if they don't blow 1st
Could you regulate the voltage to 12 on the wire going to the on off switch then everything would stay 12 volt except motors .... just thinking thanks for the great video
Yes you are doing that, tho on the output side of your switch, still need the 24v pin 7 to feed pin 6 to turn on/off the esc and work. This is why we split it
@@Neonjer11 I don't understand this response. You said the controller is just relaying the power. Why would the on/of switch need 24v?
@DOBICONJT follow the wiring diagram and you will see 24 volts gets split after the switch so that everything can power ON at the same time. the split and voltage reg happens after the switch.
DUDE! Just spent a few hours of the course of today, after I blew up my controller RX23 trying to run 18v battery, 2 new motors.. & DC controller, I didn't turn it up too high either. I think (I think) the motors were drawing too much current and it popped and smoked.
The rx23 I believe is a 12v controller 18v can not be added to it. If you were trying to do the 18v upgrade you see on the internet those rideons do Not have a controller, they are direct battery power. Completely different system
I’ve searched the thread and I probably overlooked it but is there a photo or list of all parts needed to this upgrade? I’m trying to order everything at once, I don’t want to miss out on anything. I have
(2) 12v 18 AH batteries
Voltage regulators
(2) 24 30000RPM gearbox
(1) weelye 24 v controller
Am I missing something?
Ya should be in the description
Also this wire set up is the same for the Moderno jeep if you was to add a break reduction module would you hook that up to pin 4? Cause Thers only 2 wires for the pedal
I have a video on the braking. Check out my videos
@@Neonjer11 Could you post the link for me, I scrolled threw your vids and I didn’t see any for breaking
@brendenwoodruff1660 I'm sorry I was thinking steering. On braking we did try to lesson the brake tho it requires a capacitor and base on your setup and stoppage it may differ in size. Tho if I remember right it was similar to the steering. Be sure not to restrict the power to your motors and also the esc may see that added company and not function properly. For these reasons we did not recommend the mod.
Very good detailed video on the upgrade. I'm planning on running a set of Ryobi 18v 4.0ah batteries to my upgraded RX30/24v 30k rpm motors/speed controller. Would a regulator really be that important or would a 6v increase to the radio and lights be an issue? I upgraded the 12v motors from 9k to 40k RPM motors (i currently run two 12v7ah batteries in parallel for longevity) and the batteries die MUCH faster. And I've noticed since the motors dont have as much torque, the car turns off if the motors are loaded going through mud sometimes...and have to wait 30s or so for it to automatically turn back on. This only happened on the stock set up once or so if i pushed it, with the motor upgrades, its constant under any major load. Im hoping with the 24v motors, running an 18v battery, i can run it at 100% without overloading the motors.
Some say they have run the 18v on the rx30, tho I personally never test it on 18v, also keep in mind if you upgrade motor to 24v, @18v it will be slower as you will under power the motor by 25% if you leave the 12v motors @ 18v you will overvolt at 25%, it will be fast but the life of the motors will be shortened not sure how the Weelye esc will act as it may trip due to the load it sees. The issue you described sounds like the motors are worn and need replaced it's not a battery issue imo
as for the light and radio yes 12v only
Also the high the rpm the less torque you will have so if you off reading with 40k lol it probably will give u issue, 30k-40k is black top parking lot riding where not much torque is needed, I would go 18k if possible for balance stock is I think like 10k-12k rpm
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the replies... the stock motors were 550/12v/9k rpm. they're cheap enough I could buy a set of 18k rpm motors for the 12v set up just to have.... but the motors in it now at 40k rpm are brand new...first time using them too yesterday actually. they work great on pavement...but in mud or water they tend to do the internal shutoff thing...so i figured they were just being overloaded.
I was hoping the 18v battery would work with the 24v set up and just be safe from overloading anything..but at minimum it soundsl ike I'll need to get a regulator for the lights and radio or risk burning them up. Thanks again for the reply!
Man, this video worked great for me to repair a 24v ride on i had. I just had mine go out again and i thought just swapping the board may get me goin again but now it does nothing. It seems to be getting power but nothing happens when i push the pedal. Any ideas? Could the pedal switch be bad? How would i go about finding out what may be keeping it from running? Batteries for sure are good and i have a new board. Same as before
If you have a remote i would try that first. If the remote works it soming you wired wrong or that isnt making contact. jump the pedal wires first. a common problem. Also next you can jump the shift fwd or rev. I'd start there as long as you 100% the batteries are good and no fuse has blown.
I will try jumping those items first thing in morning to test that out! I didnt think of just trying that. Thank you for the quick reply!
Does the stock charger still work or do you need to charge one batt at a time?
Ya you could do that. but that charger takes forever. Lol
Will a 24 v charger work when two 12s are together. Or do you just use 12v charger still.
A 24v charger would only be good for 2 x 12v battery ran in "Series". if you have them run in "parallel" then it still is 12v an a 12v charger will be needed. If you get a switching charger as listed in the description it does both 12 and 24v which is nice if you decide to upgrade in the future
If i swap a rx18 12v to a rx30 24v and i use a dewalt 20v battery do i need the volt regulator if i dont exceed 20v
I would assume so, since your stock electronics are rated 12v, they can possibly handle between 14v-16v max before possibly causing permanent damage to them
Hi, thanks for the great video. How would I change the setup if my shifter has a fwd hi, fwd lo, and rev?
You don't have to change anything really if you wire it correctly you'll have all 3 same as you have now less neutral I'm assuming.
I’m trying to use my original shifter, pedal, on/off switch, and charging port and I can’t seem to get it working. I have power to my 7pin connector but I must be missing something. I can’t seem to find anyone to give me a straight answer. Should I just rip out all the original wiring and run new ones like in your video?
@@jamesoleary7560 did you or can you post some pics of the wiring and shift components to the Google Photos help link folder. Unfortunately these manufacturers have different components for the same bodies. The part all do the same its just figuring out which wire goes where, lol.
photos.app.goo.gl/oj5kBWeh8WxC3F4S7
Is it easier to take everything out and wire it together then put it in the jeep or wire everything under the hood?
I guess thats just preference. Up too you, I did mine under the hood. But wither way it's up to you
do you know any way to control the car via mobile phone app, rather than the controller that comes with the receiver? I've seen varying success with some apps such as "dream car"
I don't sorry
I want to add ML Toys brake reduction module. Where would I put it since accelerator pedal switch has only two wires compared to power wheels three wires.
As far a I know the capacitor Is to be placed on the power wire on Powerwheels pedal which likely doesn't use a ESC. The Weelye ESC is "Ground ( - )" based as the pedal wires have no power only ( - ). I'm not sure but the the ML capacitor size feeds 2 motors on Powerwheels. The BCP is not set up that way tho it maybe possible to install on the power + motor lead bit only be used when going forward check with ML since they sell it. I've never used or need one and never been supplied with one to test out. Hope this helps
If you do figure out a solution please let us know there are people looking to do the same
Can you walk me through the wiring for the hi/low switch? It appears the yellow comes from the middle contact on the plug and the ground comes from the hi side of the switch. Does it matter which wire it connects to when going to the pedal?
So on the RX30 as shown in the Google Photos link in the description...
Pin #1 is your "low" trigger wire. Meaning when connected to ground it will tell the Weelye Control to put it in (Low/). When it is not connected to ground it will run at the rated speed or (/Hi). So as for you question yes it matters tho it's basically a on off switch 😉. When you buy the Weelye hi/low it come as a 6pin not a 2 or 3pin but you could use whatever you want. I just try to keep it to stock parts when explaining stuff especially if someone already has it stock.
@@Neonjer11 thanks, so which two pins do I need to connect to to be able to run low speed? I’m currently connected to the middle pin and “hi” side pin on same side. But it doesn’t change speed. Thanks in advance
@@benrasnick1396 pin 1 (low) and pin 4(ground). you will not see a difference if you use the remote as it overrides anything the driver does. You may also not see a difference until a load is introduced. Just food for thought. Good luck