Secrets to Building a 10KW Ebike Part 1
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- čas přidán 13. 06. 2024
- A walk through of the required components, how they work, and the specifics of their function. This part 1 of the two part series describes in detail everything you will need to know to be able to build your own 10kw electric bike from scratch. Look out for part two that goes through all of the details of how to assemble these components into the complete ebike.
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Thank you.
you're welcome! Glad you liked it, part two coming soon.
Great video. Speaking of C rating and capacity/longevity I recently built a pack from Sony VTC4s and, being a 20s10p battery, I get practically zero voltage sag. Also, the range is way better even though each cell is 400mah less than my previous battery. I seriously underestimated how much drawing close to the maximum discharge current lowers the effective capacity.
Its a great point that the greater the discharge rating of the cell used, the more actual capacity you will see compared to the rated capacity. Voltage sag, or lack there of, is a great indicator of the ratio of actual capacity compared to rated capacity that you will achieve on your build.
I do feel the need to say that the controller isnt turning DC into AC, its turning DC into switched/pulsed DC. Unless youre actually using an AC induction motor but Im guessing its a BLDC.
Thanks for commenting!
Great informative video, Im currently building a 5000w stealth bomber build with a 72v 80abms 160a phase peak amp battery. If you have a link to it, could you give me a link to what bolts you used for the shock and the e-brake system you used?
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video, part two coming soon. The brake bolts are M6 and the shock bolts are M8
yes you can use a bicycle rim ,but the spokes have to be a certain diameter,i found some rims that were actually 45mm width and 26 inch but with similar thickness to a motocycle rim so you could still use 2.6-2.7 inch MTB tire which are about the widest of the standard 26inch tires for memory think the spokes were 14g just had them made at a local motobike dealer,did have to widen the holes tiny bit for larger diameter nipples,, the reason i went the 26inch rim ,is the speed and accelartion increase you get over having a 19 or 21inch .with a 10kw bike you dont need to go that heavy duty ,there are motors out there now that put out the same power and speed but are lighter and still able to fit a 7 speed casette and use a compact durielier and electronic cable shifter from archer components useing this set up i cant actually peddle the bike without the motor, if you want go next level adding ma schlumf dive front crankset ,which is 3peed overdrive cranket ,allows you to peddle the bike at crazy speeds ,,gives you total of 21different gear settings
using this settup you can peddle and keep up with the motor up- to 80-90 killometers per hour thats 50 to 55 miles per hour
thats not the top speed thoughwith setup on my bike the top is 140 killometers per hour or aprox 90 miles per hour,also have to use the statorade and hubsinks ,its advisable to treat the complete inside of the motor with crc pollyurathane motor water proofingand upgrade the 3 phase wires to the best strandard copper with flexible silicone that can afford ,this helps with higher power but also with heat dissapation
Thanks for commenting! I would in the end disagree. The bicycle wheels (tubes, tires, rims, spokes) you propose will fail at a higher rate than the motorcycle counterparts from my experience. They are just not up to the torque and high mass environment of a bike like this. Sure you could go with a lighter and thinner hub motor but then you would just overheat it immediately. We are very familiar with the Schlumpf 2 speed drives, but in the end I removed it from my bike. If you are into pedaling, I would suggest a high powered mid drive, as the bike built here is for the individual who want to stealthily ride their dirtbike anywhere they want. Anyway, I do appreciate you sharing your experience and if you like your build, then that's all that matters!
@@CABology oh i agree they wont last as long as genuine motor bike tires ,but the rwheels ive built up have been incredible and theyve really been punished on and off road and the extra clearance they give for off road is really needed,,the spokes i used basically are motor bike spokes and the rim is similar thickness just not as wide ,and they are stee;l not alloy ,they arnt really bike rims but they still seem to call them that
@@angusmcgil sounds interesting!
48v 1500w motor, battery 52v20ah -40amp bms, can I use a 45amp controller with this battery?
in all likelihood, yes. Generally the BMS rating is a continuous rating, so it could take considerably more current for a short period of time, and with a 45 Amp controller you would only see this peak amperage for a short period of time.
@@CABology Thank You
@@EddieED711 yep
5S2P and one can replace the guts in the, way over priced, batteries for cordless drills, mini-saws, Etc.
thanks for commenting!
At this point just get a surron or other that type of bike...
Sure you could just buy a Surron that has considerably less torque, power, speed, range, ability to act like a bicycle, and is way noisier than the bike presented here for the enthusiast to build themselves! Thanks for commenting!
@@CABologyI mean chain drive ebikes sounds awesome! And you can always upgrade them. My mate has 13kw surron that would definitely shit on this bike.
@@ZpaztiK_TaktikZ Thanks again for commenting!