Genius Smoothing Tip for your 3D Prints!
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- čas přidán 27. 02. 2023
- I saw this cool trick on Reddit and had to give it a try! Smooth Welding Seams on your 3D Prints
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#3DPrinting #miniature #3dprinter - Věda a technologie
This is genuinely one of the best ways to join parts and fuse the seams. You can dig in further and fold back over if you want a really strong bond, great for cosplay helmets and props. Also you know that initial swipe line that printers run along the side of the bed before starting a print? They make for great scrap plastic to fill in the seams! Same goes for thinner rafts.
If you know ahead of time that you're going to be welding/filling seams like this then add a little brim to the part, but don't remove it, then your material is ready and waiting for you.
This is a big-brain move! printing something atm that needs seam welding and its using brim. ill definitely try to leave it on and use as filler.
That’s actually genius
Yo thanks for that tip
Genius
if you used something to hold the work. you could then feed with one hand and melt with the other, like Tig welding, or gas welding... I think getting the right amount of filler material is 80% of the battle with plastic welding.
You are 100% correct. I need a large set of helping hands for these prints 🤣
@@UncleJessy Why not 3D print some 🤣 I heard you have a printer big enough to handle it.
@@UncleJessy did you quit resin printing? Haven’t seen a resin video from you in forever my dude! Either way, hope alls well!
isnt that just a 3d pen tho?
@@jimpoulos01 3d pen would be mig welding ;)
Some people use temperature controlled wood burning tools (essentially soldering irons) to smooth the entire model. You may find that wood burning tips may be better shaped for the task than regular pointed soldering iron tips.
Nice! Yeah I’m thinking the wood burner might have some large flat options
indeed, i have a cheap woodburning kit i got from Walmart a year or two ago and it works amazingly.
2:17
That’s gonna help blend the “seaman” a little bit better
This is a great way to blend seams. May I suggest using a 3D pen for filling in any gaps instead of trying to fit random bits of scrap. Just use the same filament used to print the model and you've got a perfect match.
Been doing PLA welding ever since I saw Frank Built video a long time ago and never went back to glue. It's by far the best way to weld 2 pieces together. Very strong conections between the 2 parts and it does not take that much time if you consider the time you take on putting the seem, wait for it to fully dry, sand, putting again... This is for sure the best way.
Jess, you can also pick up a woodburning kit that has a bunch of different tips to help expand your repertoire of options available
Awesome! Will take a look at that
Really cool idea. So for me what I would do first and what is working for me is the combo is I use my heat gun on the part with a little bit of extra filament and that gives me a great bond and then the filling of the crack actually fills from the inside out instead of having use the heat gun or the welder on the outside in some cases but having to use the welder has become needed depending on the gap etc. so this is definitely next level stuff you shared. Thank you as always be well be you
If you have a small, spoon-shaped tip, using it at the lowest temp you can get away with makes a great burnishing tool, especially for concave and convex areas.
Another idea I have (I haven't tried it but it might work especially for this kind of model) is to add some green stuff and make very small needle like shapes, put some green stuff in the seam and then put the solidified needle like green stuff on top to look like the stiches from a scar.
With a bit of practice you could get a cool look I think.
Cool. Going to have to give this a try.
Very beautifully done
gonna try this out! I have been using a little trick in my prints: i delaminate the brim of the print and fill the gaps with ir, with ca adhesive. Once its dry, I just cut the excess. You way looks sick
Cudo's on a great video.
I am sure many of us has a resume print with a gap. So this is the way to fix that gap and not loose another day and filament reprinting a damaged part.
You could have also used that flat tip to flatten the rough areas where the support was. That can help the fit better than trying to grind it away with any tools or hand sanding. Great video, but yes this would have been a better resin print lol. You should do a video showing the difference in weight when your printing in pla vs resin. Resin seems much heavier to me.
If your iron can utilize exchangeable tips, look for a set of pyography (wood burning) tips. There are some wide flat shaped tips that might work really well.
That came out great!
Thanks! Was fun to try out
Bill Duran from Punished Props showed this method on one of his helmet builds as well. Got a super smooth finish after light touch up sanding.
Oh man Bill is the ultimate prop making master!
I join parts with glue and then cover the seams with a 3D pen uaing the same filament. You get a great weld and fill gaps. A wood carving set of tools are great for trimming any high spots and matching textures or geometry. Very strong.
Why oh why did they have that square part stick out of the legs instead of also having a square hole in the legs and a separately printed cube to put between both parts? That would have avoided that rough part as you would not have had supports there... The same holds for the arms ...
This is also a better method than glueing parts together used for props, like armour or helmets that need to be printed in multiple pieces. It is essentially plastic welding.
Cool idea!
One more tip - use Perfect Plastic Putty with a wet painting brush for filling in holes/gaps. Because it's water based, you can get a smooth finish and do not need to sand.
pretty genius, might use this for my upcoming chair project
That thumbnail is awesome; the welding technique works really well!
😂🤘
Seeing the loose end of your PLA in that spool brought back memories of a 5 day print failing after 3 days because it got tangled
I find it neat that the first videos of yours I saw were resin and I had a filament printer, but now I'm getting into resin and your comment about not liking the tiny supports made me laugh 😂
hey jesse i use a heatgun to heat up the nub that pushses into the hole i get it a little warm then i put them together an it molds it self to the hole no more sanding and you dont get big gaps in between joints
Great video!! Thanks for the tip!
Was really fun to try out. Glad to see the original poster over on reddit
Also wanted to say that I really enjoyed that stream you did with @nikkoindustries and @franklybuilt !
Hi i downloaded a PLA glue gun stick and used in my gluegun , works really well for infill , repairing ect,
You could use a 3D pen to fill the gaps first and then the soldering iron to make it smooth.
I use a 3d pen and a wood burning kit the same way. The pen lets me lay a weld line of material in the joint then I can use the various wood burning tips to smooth things out.
Perfect timing for my iron man Mk3 build, gonna weld the shins thanks!
I JUST bought a soldering iron with temperature control, can't wait to try it on my Diablo figure.
Correct me if I'm wrong. PLA is a natural, plant based plastic filament material, so when working with it under heat, respiration protection shouldn't be necessary as any fumes generated wouldn't be harmful (like ABS would be).
This is the process I use every time to bring my helmets together. I have a big box of scrap prints & old rafts that I constantly use. The only time I find this method is not useful is when you have a print with allot of details, I 3d printed Princess Shuri helmet and had to get creative lol.
Year will make for a real solid connection
didnt know that these printers can do such detailed prints. Im still thinking of a resin printer but maybe i should check it out more and get one like this
Hmm, ordered a couple of those - going to try it with one of the 3d pens I have lying around. Fill the gaps with the pen, smooth it with the iron.
I use a wood burning kit with temperature adjustment. It comes with a ton of different tips. About 19 bucks from Walmart!
For PLA's testers modeling cement to glue parts together. It works better than soldering iron with much better results.
Superbe impression..! 🤩🤤👍
getting my printer tomorrow, and this is going to be something I try once i learn how to use it!!!!!!
remember that thing called a hair dryer i find it also helps to remove supports from pla prints :)
hay Jessy getting a lot of spam here matey :)
Thanks very useful for larger things like dragons
Would be cool is the cuts had chamfers that way you could use a piece of filament as solder
Maybe if you have a 3d printer pen with some sort of silicone cover to keep if from damaging the print you could use that to fill and then solder 🤔 I often use mine to join parts from the back or where it won't be visible
Your fdm prints are so smooth do you have a setting Tutorial?
Remember to wear your safety squints when those bits of plastic are flying about.
I've seen cosplayers recommend the same technique. Those arms came out looking pretty good!
Hey Mr Jessy, do you know when will the neptune be available to buy? Which other printer would you sugest as an alternative?
Very cool trick and can work in a pinch. I still think the resin / baby powder trick is the best way to fill gaps.
Man the quality was so high in that thumbnail I thought this was a resin welding tutorial 🤯
Nice technique! Where did you get the gloop?
Ha,Ha I just bought that exact model soldering iron to do some soldering last month. Guess I can give it a try.
Sweet! Just what I was looking for... I have a mask that was sliced into two pieces and the seams are... unseemly. Tiny or tight spots could be smoothed with a heated wire loop.
NOTE: Just don't run your probe any hotter than 185 or 190. Any hotter and you run the risk of plastic discoloration. My above mentioned mask (in blue) now has some unsightly greenish tinge to it.
That skull with tentacles on your desk is beautiful! Do you have a link to the model for it?!
I use a 25w soldering iron is very controlled for welding and smoothing prints I use my thin prime line as welding rods they fit right into the gap you want a small round tip with a flat head it can weld such a thin line it's almost unnoticeable especially if you're painting it an can follow smaller details I used it to re sculpt the finger lines that failed on my small batman statue you would never even no lol
Would setting the Slicer to Iron the surface help with the arms?
Been doing this for years?. For the gap filling, I use a 3D pen, then I come with the temp controlled soldering iron for flattening and additional merging.
Very nice trick !
Sometimes i use pva glue ( wood glue ) + hot water + play doh.
To have easy support : add 0.1 to height.
Just bought my first 3d printer, the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max. How did you get the printing to be so smooth? I find it almost looks like resin and can't see any layer lines.
This was interesting. I've seen Frankly Built's video on this and decided to give this a try after a failed print.
Any Recommendations on how to solve this problem with resin printing?
Great work as always uncle Jessy! Please please consider wearing protective equipment for your eyes, on one moment a the video there is a support that blast offs upwards. It could have easily damaged your eyes. Keep up the great work!
Yeah I don't take off supports anymore without wearing safety glasses after I almost got hit in the eye. It's important.
could you do a video on adding the wireless card you added to the neptune 2 to the 3 pro if it possble as i havent seen anthing about t
Hey :)
What slicer are you using for the Elegoo neptune 3 pro?
would a 3D pen be useful with the soldering iron as well?
this seems like a nice way to fill seams, do you think it would work with resin aswel? since resin wouldnt warp under the temp?
Not so much I think. Still dripping in some resin and a uv light might work best
Glad im not the only one having issues getting these tree supports off.
surprised you found it last year, been doing this for ages with figure prints and gaps, its the same concept as welding, more or less.
I’d like too see more resin content
Does it work with resin as well?
I'm having the same issues with the tree supports. No matter what, I set the z gap distance to it. Always fuses to the model no matter what. I've tried lowering the temperature and it does the same thing. I don't have that issue with Cura with the organic tree supports just prusa. I'm kinda at a loss..
After I melt joints etc, I just smear in liquid nails... its like toothpaste in consistency, give you a few mins work time, and sets like a tough plastic. Plus it's dirt cheap. Never failed me yet :)
What nozzle size are you using on your Neptune? Is it the standard 0.4mm one or did you change it out?
I apologize if this was asked as I did try to look through all of the comments. What is the 3d goop you used? I have been using IPS SCIFRIP #16 FOR acrylics and it seems to work great for pla however it is kind of pricey. Like 13 bucks a tube.
Do you have any putty tools? Maybe swipe it smooth with one of those while its in a semi molten state?
I have that Vanilla Bean PLA. I think it was marble but Joel got to rename it.
What kind of spot putty do you recommend?
Do you think this would work for larger resin prints?
2:50 safety glasses should be on here when you got that stuff popping out.
@3:10 Be careful! I'm too used to breaking my supports off like this and I just got my pliers break off and fly at a tremendously dangerous speed. This twisting motion puts way too much strain on the pliers. I switched to some heavier duty wire cutters when fighting against unruly supports and while it is a bit harder to maneuver, it feels so much safer.
Yeah i for sure should be wearing some safety glasses
I print with a lot of silk material so when I have a mess up like this it's really hard to fix it like this, even though it's what I do because it's impossible to have any kind of blemish on silk and it not show. So I just make it end up looking still terrible but at least it's back together. Lol!
2:17 Blend the wHAT IN?!
for the arms rather than using tree i would have used the grid style of support that way you dont have to sand as much
Tip: print in higher quality
What is the 3D Goop and how can I get some or make some? Thanks
What does the resign do for your 3D prints
Hah! Dat Shaco ref thumbnail! Also using a solder can be a great time saver compared to putty + sanding!
I think rubberised putty would be the best way, The black High Temperature Sealant does a pretty awesome job too By Sika. And you don't need much at all one 300grm tube would last a far while. 👍🇦🇺Anyway that's my 2c worth.
Yes I have been doing this recently since it welded much better than super glue.. all those skirts are getting used to glue pieces together..
Now I have no idea what your results are going to look like but I'm just going to say from the get go that just because they're both temperature controlled soldering irons that does not mean you're going to get similar results at all. The pinecil v2 they were using is a fantastic budget soldering iron, but it has a very unique design with specialized smaller tips both based heavily on the TS100 series of soldering irons by miniware.
I recently started using a cheap 3D pen to fill gaps. If you do it well, the seams become almost invisible 🙂. Also stronger bond than only using superglue
I'd like to know your secret as my 3d pen did a terrible job and would barely stick. I even used the same roll of filament.
@@joed899 i put the speed to slowest, and then gently moved along the small gap. I also use the same filament as the print.
Do know that I still need practice, but sometimes I get 'welds' that I'm proud of 🙂
The main trick is the speed of your own movement along the gap. You'll have to time it right, to get a nice weld
Thanks Uncle Jessy for the tip I just fixed the title with the comma, lol
If you didnt tell me where to seams were. I wouldnt be able to tell. Really good!
Surely "Support Free" is in contrast to an STL with the supports modelled in? As opposed to meaning that one needn't use supports to print the parts.
Would this work for resin prints?
For removing those organic tree supports, I find it works much better to crush them rather than cutting them off. They pop right off for me and nothing goes flying.
Just dip your FDM prints in resin and hardener without washing them 🙂 or use wood glue if you have time to wait !