After owning my '01 Defender for 5 years, there isn't much I wouldn't/haven't tackled. I'm at the same spot you were a year or so ago, diesel leaking into the oil. the surfaces of the injector locations are "knackered" (as some would say) so it's a new head. Watching this.....I'm thinking I can do it. Appreciate the videos.....and I even more appreciate that you're not getting too frustrated with spending $$$ on the rig! That's the hardest part.
Aw man, sorry it is giving you those problems! I hope you get help from these videos and the courage to do the job. It was a lot of money but I got the vehicle for the price of a new head so it was worth it too😅 Good luck with yours!
Regarding the home made flywheel lock on the bell housing, I struggled to find the hydraulic fitting referenced in Haynes at short notice. However an 8mm microbore straight compression fitting is almost identical and has the right thread size, combined with an 8mm drill bit this works a treat. Screwfix / tool station always have them in stock in branch. Simply bore out the centre with the same 8mm drill bit you’re planning to use, mark on the drill bit how deep it needs to go in order to lock, screw either of the male ends of the compression fitting into the bell housing, gently knock the drill bit into place with a hammer, and if you want you can use the nut and olive from the compression fitting to lock the drill bit in place.
Amazing Content! I just assembled my TD5 head using the videos from the channel, my TD5 is filling up the cylinders with diesel, copper washers are new, it happens to all 5 cylinders, it works for a couple of minutes and then cut off/hydrolock.
@@Td5Adventures It is still happening, I couldn’t find the reason so far, it didn’t happen before I take the head off. I’m guessing the rockers screws from injectores are too tight causing the injectors to flood the cylinders, is that a possibility? When you tight the screws, do you put some pressure on it or it is supposed to hit the top of injector smoothy? Greetings from Brazil!
Very helpful! Just adopted a friend’s disco 2 after it failed the MOT, found some rust holes and a pressurising cooling system. Pretty much resigned to head off and inspect but not in a rush 🤞 it’s not cracked! Useful to see one stripped, thanks!
Nice job👍 When you are tightening the head bolts, make sure the socket is 90 degrees to the bolt head, as they can easily twist off under the torque required
Love your Videos! It’s so much easier removing the cylinder head off a pushrod engine! Why are low revving diesel engines designed with Over Head Cams!?! Chevy V8s can rev to 9000 RPM with Pushrods!! Also pushrod engines are more compact lighter and cheaper to build!
Thank you for watching!! I mean they might rev to 9000 after loads of aftermarket upgraded parts. There is no 1999 pushrod V8 that'll rev that high. Pushrod engines have been replaced for a reason though...
@@Td5Adventures Even if they are modified the point is a pushrod motor can rev much higher than the typical 4000 to 5000 rpm of a diesel. Some of these pushrod engines are tuned to produce 5000 hp! czcams.com/video/oeps18chvC0/video.html
Thanks, I'm doing the head on my Disco 2 TD5 now by following this video, however, did I miss something of did you skip over the part where you remove the injectors and rockers?
I found the problem! Corrosion on the water passages have eroded into the top of 2 cylinders causing loss of compression and oil going into the cooling system
@@Td5Adventures took it to a machine shop, my friend said he has done many heads before with this exact problem, his first TD5 though. Thanks to your videos to make removing the Head fun!
Your video is the best out there! Quick question - I want to remove the injectors and overhaul them BEFORE I remove the head. I assume if I have removed the injectors and then have both the locating pin at the timing chain end and then another underneath at the bellhousing BEFORE I remove the timing chain tensioner, then it will be all okay to remove the cylinder head (minus injectors of course)? Once the head is machined it can then be replaced with the new gasket, knowing that the timing will be all good as the relative positioning has been retained by the two pins which have remained in place? Once the timing chain tensioner is back in I can then put the overhauled injectors back in and all should be good? Does that sound correct?
You might also need to put thicker head gasket on to maintain clearance between valves and pistons , to do this measure how much piston protrudes above the block at tdc and check data
I am having trouble finding a way to hold the fan pulley to unscrew the nut holding the fan. Are the tools you showed in this video Land Rover tools? Do you have part numbers?
@@Td5Adventures thanks much! I would like to get my hands on a low mileage late model TD5 Motor. I am finding out that this one has overheated a couple times and the Head has been cut(machined) twice. Once because of getting warped from overheating, second time from corrosion pitting due to use of incorrect coolant/antifreeze.
Hi good job. Leaving the manifolds on adds considerably to the weight of the head as you found out. When I did mine I was working on my own and so removed as much as possible. Still very heavy. My 15p head was cracked and I went through the same process as you replacing injector seals twice before finally accepting the head was cracked. I replaced the LR head with an AMC head which has now been on longer the the original without any problems. Would throughly recommend you replace the head. I presume the Haynes manual states that you replace the head bolts as these must not be reused. I will continue to watch your progress. If you need any advice please ask, I will try to assist.
Thank you! Yeah but I wanted to make as easy access as possible to the manifold nuts as not to snap or round any off :) Yeah, the head will be replaced as so the head bolts and a few other stretch bolts! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
another question please. can I remove the head without removing the fuel injector rockers, shaft and the camshaft? Also if I mark the camshaft and chain with paint can i refit the head using these marks if I do nut turn the crankshaft or the camshaft? I'm guessing the tension of the valve springs would most likely turn the cam when I undo the cam chain sprocket...
hi very helpful video! do you lift the car to turn the Engine to OT or? I have a Disco 2 with automatic transfer do you know if i just can put the transfer in neutral and then turn the enigen to OT? Greets from Berlin
Hi ! thank you for this very useful video (and all the other you published here). Just a question please about the occurence of some pressure in the head cover. I recently removed my gaz recycling pipe in order to feed the engine with non polluted air. Now I collect the condensed oil in a dedicated tank. However I've seen that there is some kind of pressure from the pipe extracting the aily air form the head cover. It was the same, with the original pipe recylcing the head cover air into the admission pipes just after the turbo. Is this pressure nomal ? It blows like my 12 year orld daughter on her birthday cake candels. Nothing less, nothing more. any comment about that ? issue or normal ? my engine runs perfectly...
Thank you for commenting! I think that it is normal to have a little air pressure coming from the rocker cover, there is some pressure because of the valves and oil pressure too. Doesn't sound like anything you should worry about. You should start to worry about it when hoses break or blow off 😉
Damn I hope I dont have to do this but I have been having cooling issues, So mine is a D2 td5 10p, automatic, 4th gear seems quite sluggish and that makes the temp go up, I have replaced water pump and thermostat. on a drive say to the store it wont over heat rides nice at like 87-84, return drive 4th gear she starts to cook acording to nanocom. But normal gauge shows good of course lol, I got no idea anymore, Some say air bubble trapped but Damn, getting frustrating
Yes they are also on my page, this removal video, one where I assemble the new cylinder head and one where I reinstall the head gasket and cylinder head step by step😊 Thanks for watching!!
@@Td5Adventures Really well done I must say - you are very thorough - I like that. I'm going to put a new head gasket (+ several other jobs) in my D2/Td5 shortly, so these three videos are great to watch - I also have the Haynes manual and RAVE to refer to. Just one thing, can I just confirm you didn't drain the engine oil (or remove the centrifugal filter housing), only the OAT coolant was drained?
@@intestinalworm1202 Thank you!! I wanted to show all the steps so that it might help someone. I can confirm that I did not drain the oil before the procedure. I did do an oil change after the job because I had diesel in my oil, the reason I changed the cylinder head. Good luck!
I don't know, you should be able to make it work as long as you keep al sensors working and make sure the brake system keeps it's vacuum system I guess.
@@captarmour yes, there's so much work involved in swapping the Td5 for an older engine. The 200Tdi doesn't fit the gearbox, engine mounts, it'll need a different electrical system and need a different throttle pedal and a bunch more that just means so much work😉
First time seeing your video. I think it was more helpful than many others. Thank you so much.
What an absolutely fantastic tutorial video. Your English is excellent too. 👍👍👏👏
Thank you very much! I hope this helps you😊
Doing this job on my 2001 TD5 Defender. This was a huge help. Tack så mycket!
After owning my '01 Defender for 5 years, there isn't much I wouldn't/haven't tackled. I'm at the same spot you were a year or so ago, diesel leaking into the oil. the surfaces of the injector locations are "knackered" (as some would say) so it's a new head. Watching this.....I'm thinking I can do it. Appreciate the videos.....and I even more appreciate that you're not getting too frustrated with spending $$$ on the rig! That's the hardest part.
Aw man, sorry it is giving you those problems!
I hope you get help from these videos and the courage to do the job.
It was a lot of money but I got the vehicle for the price of a new head so it was worth it too😅 Good luck with yours!
Regarding the home made flywheel lock on the bell housing, I struggled to find the hydraulic fitting referenced in Haynes at short notice. However an 8mm microbore straight compression fitting is almost identical and has the right thread size, combined with an 8mm drill bit this works a treat. Screwfix / tool station always have them in stock in branch.
Simply bore out the centre with the same 8mm drill bit you’re planning to use, mark on the drill bit how deep it needs to go in order to lock, screw either of the male ends of the compression fitting into the bell housing, gently knock the drill bit into place with a hammer, and if you want you can use the nut and olive from the compression fitting to lock the drill bit in place.
Brilliant, very informative step by step guide. Will be continuing with mine today. Thank you, your English is better than my Swedish :)
Thanks!! Hope it can be to some help.
I'll be editing the next part tonight, preparing a new cylinder head for refitting.
Amazing Content! I just assembled my TD5 head using the videos from the channel, my TD5 is filling up the cylinders with diesel, copper washers are new, it happens to all 5 cylinders, it works for a couple of minutes and then cut off/hydrolock.
Thanks for watching! Hope it helped!
Does it still do it or did you replace the cylinder head?
@@Td5Adventures It is still happening, I couldn’t find the reason so far, it didn’t happen before I take the head off. I’m guessing the rockers screws from injectores are too tight causing the injectors to flood the cylinders, is that a possibility? When you tight the screws, do you put some pressure on it or it is supposed to hit the top of injector smoothy? Greetings from Brazil!
@@GHIOLIVEIRA1 hmm, weird!
You might have an injector which is stuck open?
Tightening them did require some force for me too..
Haynes manual is great! Have RAVE, but a hardcover book is so much better! Great video series - excellent work - love the detail!
Thanks for watching!
I hope this helps👌🏼
Very helpful! Just adopted a friend’s disco 2 after it failed the MOT, found some rust holes and a pressurising cooling system. Pretty much resigned to head off and inspect but not in a rush 🤞 it’s not cracked! Useful to see one stripped, thanks!
Thank you! I'm glad it helps, that's why I do it😁
Let's hope you can fix it easily! Good luck!
Skitbra och supertydligt! Snart dags för mig att göra det här jobbet. Stort tack!
Hoppas det hjälper och lycka till! 😁
Nice job👍 When you are tightening the head bolts, make sure the socket is 90 degrees to the bolt head, as they can easily twist off under the torque required
Thanks and thank for the tip!
Will definitely remember to do that😊👌🏻
This video is the holy grail.
Thank you!!!
Awesome! Glad you liked it😊
The reassembling videos can be found on my channel as well👌🏽
Enjoyed watching your videos.
Nice video sport..I’ve got a fastest job on mine in a month[hopefully nothing more]..nice refresher as they can be intimidating
Awesome thank you!
I hope it went well for you.
Very informative with great detail 👍🏻
Love your Videos! It’s so much easier removing the cylinder head off a pushrod engine! Why are low revving diesel engines designed with Over Head Cams!?! Chevy V8s can rev to 9000 RPM with Pushrods!! Also pushrod engines are more compact lighter and cheaper to build!
Thank you for watching!!
I mean they might rev to 9000 after loads of aftermarket upgraded parts. There is no 1999 pushrod V8 that'll rev that high. Pushrod engines have been replaced for a reason though...
@@Td5Adventures Even if they are modified the point is a pushrod motor can rev much higher than the typical 4000 to 5000 rpm of a diesel. Some of these pushrod engines are tuned to produce 5000 hp! czcams.com/video/oeps18chvC0/video.html
@@Td5Adventures czcams.com/video/3tDs-ixtmug/video.html
@@captarmour Sure but with a diesel you don't need more than 1500rpm to get full torque out of it anyways👌🏼
Great job! 💪🏻💪🏻
Already looking forward to watch the next videos!!
Thank you so much! 😁
I'll try and get them out as soon as possible but shipping parts might take a while..
I hit the subscrive button straight away ... Good luck
great timing, just started mine today, your video is very helpful!
Awesome, I'm glad it helps!
Waiting on parts at the moment but the installation video will be up asap but might take another week or two😊
Excellent video looking forward to the next two
Thanks!! Great to know, I appreciate it 😊
Thank you man. You helped me a lot 👌 greeting from Germany
Awesome! Thanks for watching 😁
Good video dude! I’ll be doing my disco 2 td5 head gasket next weekend.
Nice!! Be sure to watch the other ones for the refitting too😉
And good luck!
Fantastic work !!!
Thank you!
Thanks for showing! I Need garage!
Thanks!
You can do this outside too, I did a V8 (two heads) last spring while working outside on the driveway 😁
Your videos are very helpful and informative. Thank you. Subscribed
Wow! I'm so happy it's of help! Thank you!
Thanks, I'm doing the head on my Disco 2 TD5 now by following this video, however, did I miss something of did you skip over the part where you remove the injectors and rockers?
I found the problem! Corrosion on the water passages have eroded into the top of 2 cylinders causing loss of compression and oil going into the cooling system
Glad you found the problem but sorry to hear the reason... You will need a new cylinder head then!
@@Td5Adventures took it to a machine shop, my friend said he has done many heads before with this exact problem, his first TD5 though. Thanks to your videos to make removing the Head fun!
@@captarmour Thanks for watching and glad to help! Good luck 😁
Your video is the best out there! Quick question - I want to remove the injectors and overhaul them BEFORE I remove the head. I assume if I have removed the injectors and then have both the locating pin at the timing chain end and then another underneath at the bellhousing BEFORE I remove the timing chain tensioner, then it will be all okay to remove the cylinder head (minus injectors of course)? Once the head is machined it can then be replaced with the new gasket, knowing that the timing will be all good as the relative positioning has been retained by the two pins which have remained in place? Once the timing chain tensioner is back in I can then put the overhauled injectors back in and all should be good? Does that sound correct?
You might also need to put thicker head gasket on to maintain clearance between valves and pistons , to do this measure how much piston protrudes above the block at tdc and check data
I am having trouble finding a way to hold the fan pulley to unscrew the nut holding the fan. Are the tools you showed in this video Land Rover tools? Do you have part numbers?
Hi! Yes, the part numbers for both are LRT-12-093 & LRT-12-094 or get them both at Paddockspares as partnr PM1278
@@Td5Adventures thanks much!
I would like to get my hands on a low mileage late model TD5 Motor. I am finding out that this one has overheated a couple times and the Head has been cut(machined) twice. Once because of getting warped from overheating, second time from corrosion pitting due to use of incorrect coolant/antifreeze.
Hi good job. Leaving the manifolds on adds considerably to the weight of the head as you found out. When I did mine I was working on my own and so removed as much as possible. Still very heavy. My 15p head was cracked and I went through the same process as you replacing injector seals twice before finally accepting the head was cracked. I replaced the LR head with an AMC head which has now been on longer the the original without any problems. Would throughly recommend you replace the head. I presume the Haynes manual states that you replace the head bolts as these must not be reused.
I will continue to watch your progress. If you need any advice please ask, I will try to assist.
Thank you!
Yeah but I wanted to make as easy access as possible to the manifold nuts as not to snap or round any off :)
Yeah, the head will be replaced as so the head bolts and a few other stretch bolts!
Thanks for watching and commenting!!
another question please. can I remove the head without removing the fuel injector rockers, shaft and the camshaft? Also if I mark the camshaft and chain with paint can i refit the head using these marks if I do nut turn the crankshaft or the camshaft? I'm guessing the tension of the valve springs would most likely turn the cam when I undo the cam chain sprocket...
Sorry for the slow reply.
I don't think you can do that. Check the Haynes manual or Land Rover workshop manual for the exact procedure.
Great video.
Thank you!!!
Part 2 and 3 are coming soon (prepping a new head + reinstalling)
hi very helpful video! do you lift the car to turn the Engine to OT or? I have a Disco 2 with automatic transfer do you know if i just can put the transfer in neutral and then turn the enigen to OT?
Greets from Berlin
Sorry for the slow reply and thanks for watching!
You can put the gearbox in neutral and spin the engine by hand 👌🏼
Good luck!
Hi ! thank you for this very useful video (and all the other you published here). Just a question please about the occurence of some pressure in the head cover. I recently removed my gaz recycling pipe in order to feed the engine with non polluted air. Now I collect the condensed oil in a dedicated tank. However I've seen that there is some kind of pressure from the pipe extracting the aily air form the head cover. It was the same, with the original pipe recylcing the head cover air into the admission pipes just after the turbo. Is this pressure nomal ? It blows like my 12 year orld daughter on her birthday cake candels. Nothing less, nothing more. any comment about that ? issue or normal ? my engine runs perfectly...
Thank you for commenting!
I think that it is normal to have a little air pressure coming from the rocker cover, there is some pressure because of the valves and oil pressure too. Doesn't sound like anything you should worry about. You should start to worry about it when hoses break or blow off 😉
Damn I hope I dont have to do this but I have been having cooling issues, So mine is a D2 td5 10p, automatic, 4th gear seems quite sluggish and that makes the temp go up, I have replaced water pump and thermostat. on a drive say to the store it wont over heat rides nice at like 87-84, return drive 4th gear she starts to cook acording to nanocom. But normal gauge shows good of course lol, I got no idea anymore, Some say air bubble trapped but Damn, getting frustrating
Hmm that sounds interesting 🤔 I hope you can figure it out!!
(Sorry for the late reply)
How did you diagnose a cracked Cylinder head?
Excellent!!! Did you finish the later videos (at least two) of this Head Gasket replacement?
Yes they are also on my page, this removal video, one where I assemble the new cylinder head and one where I reinstall the head gasket and cylinder head step by step😊
Thanks for watching!!
@@Td5Adventures Yes, just saw! Such attention to detail - great work! Doing my HG in next few days - your videos are A1!👍👍
@@Td5Adventures Really well done I must say - you are very thorough - I like that. I'm going to put a new head gasket (+ several other jobs) in my D2/Td5 shortly, so these three videos are great to watch - I also have the Haynes manual and RAVE to refer to.
Just one thing, can I just confirm you didn't drain the engine oil (or remove the centrifugal filter housing), only the OAT coolant was drained?
@@intestinalworm1202 Thank you!! I wanted to show all the steps so that it might help someone.
I can confirm that I did not drain the oil before the procedure. I did do an oil change after the job because I had diesel in my oil, the reason I changed the cylinder head.
Good luck!
I have a good low mileage TDI 200, if I swap it in place of the TD5 can I still get the traction control to work?
I don't know, you should be able to make it work as long as you keep al sensors working and make sure the brake system keeps it's vacuum system I guess.
@@Td5Adventures on second thoughts keeping it standard may be better for resale value.
@@captarmour yes, there's so much work involved in swapping the Td5 for an older engine. The 200Tdi doesn't fit the gearbox, engine mounts, it'll need a different electrical system and need a different throttle pedal and a bunch more that just means so much work😉
@@Td5Adventures I'll save the Discovery TDI motor for the NA 110 I just got.
@@captarmour yes, that's a much easier swap, I think the gearbox even mounts straight to the TDI!
Hey man! What P model is the engine?
It's a 15p, late 2001 early 2002 model😊
👍🏻
You very good
U a good teacher
Can you oriente me bro?
I have that manual. It's good for the pics. But if you want to know more and have all the info then get RAVE. Oh, and a Nanocom.