I've been wondering about this for a long time. We used to have a old John Deere 435 when I was a kid and it had more than one hole. The current Kubota has three holes. Since they put them there, there had to be a different purpose for each one. I asked some folks but even some professional farmers just hooked like people told them but no idea why. Now I know. Thanks.
yes keep in mind some models are different and vary slightly. some kubota and JD tractors with draft control options have a fourth hole or use a designated hole for activating draft control features. this specific tractor shown does not have draft control. if yours does then make sure to check your owners manual for more information. basically what draft control does is automatically raise and lower the three point to maintain tractor traction and travel speed when using ground plowing three point implements. it has its pluses and negatives but over all is a great feature found on deluxe tractor models. thanks for dropping by and much appreciate the kind words.
That was very informative and I never thought of moving my top link, but will look at my tractor tomorrow to see if my tractor have more than one connection area for my top link.
thank you I just got a box rake My first tractor B2630 when I hooked up I put it on top I will move to bottom I do watch your videos thank you taking the time to helping me learn. I love my tractor 2007.
Thank you for discussing this... I am brand new to the tractor - I have got a lot of work done with it (L3901) - but I am clueless as to how I have been able to get the work done... wishing I have seen your simple explanations I needed so badly! Watching and Supporting, LIKING your video, and very appreciative of your assistance sir!
it brings me a lot of joy to help folks in any way I can. so glad you are hear and always encouraging to read these kind words. it truly inspires me to continue adding content and sharing what I know works and why it works.
Different implements that I use, require different placement for the top link on the tractor side. For instance, my grader blade, I use the middle hole tractor side, and bottom hole on the grader side(has a top and bottom hole) This allows me to lift the grader higher than what it would in the top holes. On my bush hog, it’s better leveled using the top. Hay mower, middle. I’ve never had to use the lowest hole on the tractor.
yes it can vary from tractor model to tractor model and implement being used. these instructions were based on this model and similar and taken straight out the owners manual. thanks for the input it will help others who have the same issue with various set ups as you do.
great info i have a small old kubota and i never got a manual with it and wondered about that top link your explanation made sense and now i know thanks!!!!
Dave , you are a pretty cool guy . Your informative & I just like your style . If we lived close we would be talking shop & having a few beers together . I recently commented about my Jerky 3 point & asked if you had any info . about that , i'm sure there are alot of people would like to see how you fixed that ! Send me a notice when you get that video together . Thanks again man .
I actually started editing the video this week . I need to add a little more video showing the valve I used and how I plumbed it in. I know the video will be longer than most but it will be worth it to those who need to know how this fix is holding up and what the static back pressure increases are. I hope to get that video up by next week if not sooner. if you hit the bell it will notify you when I upload and once you see all you want to see just unsubscribe and then subscribe over so you dont get so many notifications about videos you may not be interested in. thanks for being patient with me.
thank you so much for viewing my video and for the kind remarks. there is so much that is not published about tractors and implements. you may also find my video on setting up a boxblade very useful. additionally my video on how to set your top link on a finish mower is very popular and goes overs some of the finer points associated with properly hooking up a finish mower. again I thank you so much and I'm glad you enjoyed my video. be blessed!
glad it helped thanks so very much for watching liking and commenting on my videos. it does help me a lot to see my videos helping others. have fun and be safe tractoring.
The lower set of holes are used when you are using draft control and want to reduce the sensitivity of the draft control Typically when pulling a heavy plow. The lower set has less leverage on the draft control than the upper set and therefore reduces the sensitivity. You can also use the lower holes for attaching stay straps or limiter chains.
most of these tractors do not have draft control however the ones that do have it have an extra hole that is then used for kubota tractors that have that option. "according to the manufacturer instructions" any hole can be used when using draft control and the hole used is based on the same concept covered in this video. the only exception is the additional hole and the recommended position of the draft control lever. since my tractor does not have draft control and would have been beyond the scope of this video I did not go into that discussion. however that would make a great video addition. " where to connect your top link when using draft control " if you would like to make that video I would be happy to point folks who watch this video in that direction. I will gladly forward you the information sheet from the manufacturer with the information that both this video and a video covering draft control would follow according to Kubota manufacturing. thanks for the input.
your very welcome and we thank you for watching and sharing our video. be sure and invite your friends to our kubota tractor and equipment group on facebook.
According to my tractor manual you have described it bass akwards. For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake. · For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade. · For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.
I got this straight out the owners manual from Kubota corporation. not sure what tractor or manual you are using but by all means go by your tractor manual. this was from my manual that came with my L2800 Kubota. larger or smaller tractors may differ. some have draft control and that is a completely different animal. this model tractor has NO draft control.
@@daveknowshow The info I copied came from my Deere manual. It doesn't have draft control either. Maybe Deere got it wrong? manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMLVU13193_H2/Output/Index.html
The three point hitch is a 4 bar linkage that was developed to work with a moldboard plow. The plow has a shoe which makes it sensitive to the inclination angle when engaging soil. The top link holes primarily control the tipping rate (sensitivity). Disks are only sensitive to the upward angle of pull and this can be somewhat controlled with the location of the virtual center of the 4 bar linkage. Look up 4 bar linkages and kinematics for more information. It is informative to make a side view scale drawing including implement geometry and ground level to understand the the 3 point hitch, remember, a plow lifts the soil, and it helps steering to place the (virtual) center of pull forward of the rear wheels and not behind the tractor as you would have with a drawbar. For blades with trailing wheels, the top hole has advantages for grading by placing the virtual center closer to the front wheels and maximizing the planing effect. The primary job of the chains on the lower links is to prevent tire rubs. Tight chains may be needed to control side sway in precise work, but will impact steering and shouldn't be a most of the time thing. Understanding 4 bar linkages will change the way you think about implements. Many people don't bother understanding this and just bolt on lots of weights, water in the tires, etc. Explaining this to hired hands will be frustrating.
yes explaining all that to most folks goes in one ear and out the other. Kubota john deere and most of the other major manufacturers have pointed out the top link hole position as an easy to follow method of achieving a starting point. of course that is merely the starting point as shortening and lengthening the top link also changes the geometric angle of pull on various implements depending on where the actual first point of contact is of the business end of the implement. additionally some tractors have a fourth hole for draft control which adds another portion of discussion in the mix. thank you for a very good comment. hope your weekend has been grand.
thank you for watching my video! I have a pretty good video series on the box blade that may interest you since you did mention the box blade. its worth watching. thanks again for the wonderful comment and for taking your time to watch my videos. peace love and respect Dave.
I'm just thrilled people find them useful. it always brings me joy to help others in whatever way I can. keep on tractoring brother peace love and respect!
I almost never use the lower holes, (Except when my backhoe is on.) My lowest pin carry's the weight when the backhoe drops in, and the upper pin secures it. I haven had much experience with a finish mower, just brush hog work. I've used other implements like rototillers, and post hole diggers on jobs, but those were on the employers machines, and generally already connected.
thanks for watching. things have to make sense to me or it drives me nuts trying to understand why it is what it is. again thanks for watching and commenting means a lot!
I like your videos Dave. I definitely think the position of the top link on the tractor has an affect on how much turning of the top link you will have to do to get an angle on your implement like a box blade. I think so e of it may have to do with what type of implement you have based on how high the mounting point for the top link is on the implement. Mounting points that are lower you could use the bottom hole. On implements that have a high mounting point you would use the top hole. Maybe that has something to do with keeping the geometry correct to help level the implement? Also draft control which I know tractors of this size dont really have but on utility tractors and bigger the bottom link is the least sensitive and the top is the most sensitive which is based on soil conditions. Love the videos
draft control is nice and it comes on most of these as an option not standard. the smaller Bseries the draft control is standard on many of those. this model Lseries is the economy model and does not have draft control. sometimes I wish it did. other times I'm glad it dont.
This seems to be directly opposite what my John Deere Manual says. Please comment. Here it is : • For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake. • For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade. • For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.
it sounds like your john deere is using a " draft control " which is a means to lift the three point automatically if it gets under a heavy load. on some tractor brands the draft control works in all holes and is based on which type of ground engaging implement you have. yours sounds like that type. on others brands like some Kubota tractors the draft control only works on an additional 4th hole. the other three holes are none draft control settings the fourth is a draft control setting hole that operates in conjunction with a draft control lever located at the operator platform. from there you can set the draft controller to be more or less aggressive based on which implement you are using. on some tractors that have auto draft control there is no controller lever at the operator platform instead where you attach the top link governs how aggressive the draft control reacts. I hope this makes sense to you if you have any questions please ask. I was at the time of this video unaware of that type of draft control and had only used the type with a control lever to set the sensitivity of the draft action. on the tractor used in this video there is no fourth hole and thus this tractor used has NO draft control installed.
Thanks. I always wondered about the changes in the hole hookup. We use a rear scraper blade to plow snow on our 900 fir long driveway. Its 7 feet long. i can park with the blade downhill on a slope and pivot it so it faces backward to push drifts with. 8 ft is too long. We mostly just angle it and scrape that way. We do a couple of passes per storm. Start at say 7 inches. We are linked in the top hole and I guess it should be the bottom. We use a Woods blade. We do one pass in the road middle and one on each side. If we get alot of snow often you do have to bucket it back. Thanks again for the info, 2004 kubota l 2800 gear tractor 2000 hours,
@@kennkid9912 pretty much yes. they can do damage at times but no where near the damage that Ag tires do on a lawn. its a great choice for the best of both worlds in my honest opinion. now days there are other tire options that you could look into. ask your dealer and take a look. the can order a new set for you with rims. sometimes you can get tires on kubota rims cheaper than just tires alone.
some agricultural equipment comes with a choice of holes for top link position. if you use the lowest hole on the tractor and the highest hole on the implement you gain ground clearance at the back of the implement when it is raised
yes and some of the newer small tractors only have 1 hole as well. others have 4 holes with one being dedicated to draft control. it would be nice if they all stuck with the same game plan. lol thanks for dropping by!
My documentation is lacking ("this is the preferred hole for the top link"). Most of what I learn are from videos like this or trial and error. Good info!
so glad you found it useful I truly appreciate you dropping by my channel and leaving a comment. hope you find many more useful tractor videos on my channel.
Dave great video. I know this is a little off topic but I believe it's related; what about the holes on the lower three point hitch arms? on my Kubota I have a set of holes on each lower arm which is closer to the Tractor and then another hole which is closer to the Implement. The vertical rods that come from the actual hydraulic lifting arms for the 3 point hitch connected nose holes. how are those used, should I be using the air holes closest to the Tractor are the outer holes closest to the implement
excellent question. those holes affect the lift height and lift strength of the three point. the further in one direction you go the higher the three point will lift your implement. this comes in real handy when using a post hole digger for example. many times the post hole digger will drag the bit when traveling from point A to point B. moving to a higher hole will result in more ground clearance for the bit. contrary to that there are times when you need the three point to go lower. for example when deep plowing a garden with a bottom plow or using a subsoiler. you may need the three point to go lower. the lift strength comes into play due to leverage. in one hole the lift capacity may be 2600lb in the next hole it may be 2000lb all due to leverage from one hole to another. typically the three point will always go low enough for what ever implement your using even in the high lift hole. however generally the hole that lifts the three point the highest is also the hole with the least lift capacity. so when you need that extra lift capacity on the rear you would adjust to the stronger hole. use a measuring tape measure the three point when fully lifted. then move to the furthest or closest hole and measure again. you will see a difference. thank you for a great question!
I know my daddy's Kubota has 4 holes and they are tricky the bottom plow if u hook it in the bottom hole doesn't raise it far of the grind like the top hole does and its a 4900 industrial 2wd . Even does the same with the posthole digger
you need to move the lower lift arm attachment point. 99% of them have multiple holes for that very reason. most of the ones that do not have the extra holes are the very small tractors. hope this helps.
for my back blade and borrowed box blade and boom i want the least tip when lifting it up or draftso i use 1. everything else i use 3 out of 4 for my hole
if you have draft control then you should use it accordingly. these instructions are for newer small tractors with no draft control option. its based on manufacture instruction recommendations. so just a general guide for safest bet for those inexperienced operators. you can always adjust as you learn your specific machine and develop your own skill set. thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I hope your having a blessed day!
Didn't know myself. Just got a post hole digger hoping to get it higher then using the top hole. Much easier then reading manual if it is even there. lol thanks
Thanks for this video. I have a hydraulic top link to install. I think I’ll put it on the middle space. Can you ask the Cicadas to keep the noise down next time???
lol them and the frogs will make you lose your mind at times. lol yes I went in the middle with my hydraulic top link. you can run into clearance issues with any hole except the middle with some of those. go slow testing for clearance as the raise and lower once the top link is on. mine hit and broke lost a lot of fluid that day.
Good job! I have a john deere 3025E with a 3 point rear hitch - on the 3 point hitch where should I set the top hook that grabs a box blade or rear plow - I have a 3 position hook
So put it in the middle for a quick hitch? Really been using my box blade and saw today it was in the top position. 48.5 hrs on tractor..... novice at best. I was wondering because i was having to adjust my top link drastically in and out to get the performance i wanted. So by moving to the lower or middle i should have better response per turn in or out. Am i getting the jist?
the position is about the angle by which the top link pulls on the top section of the "A" frame of the implement. it marginally affects the load on the tractor when pulling say a bottom plow for making a garden. also some tractors have draft control which only works in one position. on some of the older Kubota's they have 4 holes instead of three and the top hole is for "draft control". on other brand and model tractors the pattern for position is the opposite. make sure you check your owners manual to make sure your model is the same as the one shown in this video. also if you follow my video on how to set up a boxblade the angle of the dangle you will learn about neutral position and your top link adjustment is typically not real extreme in either direction from neutral to gain the best results. find neutral on the top link and then adjust one inch shorter on the top link or one inch longer on the top link. go from there adjusting a little further than 1 inch or a little less than one inch in either direction to gain the best results. I'm here if you need additional help. Dave in Virginia
yes I would. however if you add a hydraulic top link you may find the center hole is the best hole to avoid damaging the hydraulic line on the toplink. but yes I use the bottom hole with the quick hitch most of the time.
Thank you Dave. I have an older Kubota 4wd tractor. The top link is missing. I emplaning to get a drawbar T thing to pull stuff. My top link is missing. What would you get
top links are fairly cheap. I would figure out what the measurements of the factory one was and buy an after market one. the draw bar if your speaking of the ones that attach at the lower lift arms do not typically attach to a top link. it would need to be modified to hook up to a top link. it could be done though.
I have a complete series on installing rear remotes and a double spool valve for top and tilt. hete czcams.com/play/PLLg8VIC7effqrGAhXOOoqLmKfjL20hS6O.html
My TC29DA Operator Manual says lower hole for light draft such as mowers and top hole for heavier draft, ground engaging. Now I'm confused?? I'm installing hydraulic top link and thought I'd check out some videos since no info came with shipment.
you are correct some manuals state the opposite the only thing I can figure is that it has something to do with the angle of the three point size of tractor and whether or not it has draft control on that specific model. my owners manual explains it just as I did in this video. you should follow your specific model owners manual and disregard this video as it applies to Kubota L series tractors and may differ from other make and model tractors. sorry for the confusion. I may redo this video to explain that better.
Dave I have a Kubota B2910 that I bought used and when I raise the rear arms they do not move until I am at 8 on the lever. Haven't been able to find any information on why or how I can get a greater range? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! This video helped me with a question I had for a while about which hole for which implements. Thumbs up!
sounds like the feed back rod is out of adjustment. I show the feed back rod in a video and where its located on my tractor. it may be in a different place on your tractor. that rod tells the three point when to lift and how high to lift before stopping. czcams.com/video/6xxWubTowz8/video.html
@@daveknowshow Thanks for the reply and information! I found my feedback rod, on the B2910 it is on the passenger side and is very short compared to yours. Does not appear to be bent other than the factory bends. I said my lever does not raise to 8 but it is actually at 5 that it starts to raise the rear arms. 7.5 to 8 is when my belly mower first moves. Any idea of which way to adjust the nuts on the feedback rod to get control of the full range on the lever, 1-8? Also should the belly mount for my mower have more range than it does (7.5-8) or is that the extent of the travel I can expect? Basically right now I have up or down between 7 and 8. UPDATE: I found another forum on tractors.net www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/4261-three-point-control-range-5.html that talks about this problem. Seems as though it is commonly experienced but no answer for it other than it is what it is. Range tends to start between 4 or 5 and raises until 8 for the rear arms. Haven't found anyone with a similar model that says they have full range 1-8.
Can you do a video on how to dig a pond with a box blade, just how you can dig a few inches at a time... also video on how to set up a cutter properly... my cutter just leans grass over... not sure what to do
already have a video series on setting up a brush hog cutter. if your finish mower is laying grass over the blades are likely dull. stay tuned for a video about the pond with a boxblade.
not true, the holes have zero to do with the length of the top link. they have to do with pull angle and draft control on models with draft control. pull angle establishes how strong a pull you will have. a finish mower needs no real pulling strength or angle but a bottom plow needs the correct pulling angle and strength. all this information came straight out the tractors owners manual. so if its wrong then every tractor manual out there is wrong.
Excellent Video, When I Moved It To The Bottom Hole My Box Blade Worked Better And Moved Up And Down With No Delay. On the Top Hole It Would Not Draft Down Properly And Would Not Stop Going Up Until It Maxed Out. I Thought My 3pnt Hyd Were Messed Up . One Day I Will Read My Manual, Thanks Dave, Excellent Video "Keep It Simple"
Hmm good video helpful in reference points. Odd you take the time to make an informative video and in the comment section boom hundreds of tractor experts to debate your info..... that's funny.... if y'all are so all knowing make your own videos... again thanks for info
seems to be standard on youtube to a degree. there are some nice appreciative folks on here though. they make it worth the effort to create decent content. its funny how they want to debate what is actually in 99% of tractor manuals. its not like I simply make this stuff up. most of it comes from hundreds of years of collective experience found in books with a touch of my own personal way of logically doing things that even someone like me who has a learning disability can understand. thanks for expressing TRUTH its rarely seen on youtube. appreciate it. peace love and respect.
You are correct Randy! I grew up on a farm and live on it. Have been operating tractors since I could reach the clutch! In my case I have never really thought much about setting until now! Most everything for me is hook and run. Typical day is box blade here, bush hog around feedlot and barn, then disc mower and off to hay fields across different tractors. As I have grown up and have had to take charge due to dad getting old these things mean a lot! Why I love this channel a good find.
lol I know the feeling at 58 I need all the help with finding the right angle I can get. sometimes a little aggressiveness is what it takes to get that angle just right for the proper hole. somedays any hole is better than no hole at all. lol
yes the middle would be fine. in fact I have gone to using the middle for just about all the implements its a decent spot to be for me because I dont get aggressive with the tractor anyway.
keep in mind this is specific to this model kubota tractor that has no draft control. your model may be the complete opposite. check your owners manual!
@@michaelgrigsby7784 draft control on the l2501 is an add on option that rarely gets added. your manual should show the orientation and where each implement goes for top link hook up. i can try to pull up your manual and look for it.
guard does not bother me in the least. it hinges up and down easy enough but not to loose. never had an implement touch the guard in all the years I been operating tractors.
+dwight fry I don't like reading manuals either until after I make all the mistakes and then wonder why things are not working out. that's when I read. lol so yea I'm pretty guilty myself.
Dave's statements in this video are the exact OPPOSITE of what my owner's manual and other youtube channels say. Anyone watching this should do some more research to learn for themselves.
always check your owners manual. this is where I got this information for this specific model tractor from the owners manual. I think I even stated to be sure and check your owners manual in the video.
Thanks a bunch. Got my tractor from my aunt after my uncle passed. He bought it used. No manuals. This kind of stuff is very helpful.
always a pleasure to help thank you for the kind words.
I've been wondering about this for a long time. We used to have a old John Deere 435 when I was a kid and it had more than one hole. The current Kubota has three holes. Since they put them there, there had to be a different purpose for each one. I asked some folks but even some professional farmers just hooked like people told them but no idea why. Now I know.
Thanks.
yes keep in mind some models are different and vary slightly. some kubota and JD tractors with draft control options have a fourth hole or use a designated hole for activating draft control features. this specific tractor shown does not have draft control. if yours does then make sure to check your owners manual for more information. basically what draft control does is automatically raise and lower the three point to maintain tractor traction and travel speed when using ground plowing three point implements. it has its pluses and negatives but over all is a great feature found on deluxe tractor models. thanks for dropping by and much appreciate the kind words.
Good info. Thank you.
hope it helps mae sure to check your owners manual some machines differ slightly
Gonna run my backblade for the first time real soon so thought I should watch this one. Thanks Dave!
That was very informative and I never thought of moving my top link, but will look at my tractor tomorrow to see if my tractor have more than one connection area for my top link.
awesome! I hope it helps your tractor be more efficient.
thank you I just got a box rake My first tractor B2630 when I hooked up I put it on top I will move to bottom I do watch your videos thank you taking the time to helping me learn. I love my tractor 2007.
oh yes that B2630 is a nice machine! often times I wish I had one that size. its so exciting to take delivery of a tractor.
Thank you for discussing this... I am brand new to the tractor - I have got a lot of work done with it (L3901) - but I am clueless as to how I have been able to get the work done... wishing I have seen your simple explanations I needed so badly! Watching and Supporting, LIKING your video, and very appreciative of your assistance sir!
it brings me a lot of joy to help folks in any way I can. so glad you are hear and always encouraging to read these kind words. it truly inspires me to continue adding content and sharing what I know works and why it works.
Thanks dave, i`m from the philippines, juric, your video really helped me understand where to place that "that top link" thanks a lot.
Juric Sato glad to help brother may peace love and respect be yours Dave in Virginia. USA
Different implements that I use, require different placement for the top link on the tractor side. For instance, my grader blade, I use the middle hole tractor side, and bottom hole on the grader side(has a top and bottom hole) This allows me to lift the grader higher than what it would in the top holes. On my bush hog, it’s better leveled using the top. Hay mower, middle. I’ve never had to use the lowest hole on the tractor.
yes it can vary from tractor model to tractor model and implement being used. these instructions were based on this model and similar and taken straight out the owners manual. thanks for the input it will help others who have the same issue with various set ups as you do.
great info i have a small old kubota and i never got a manual with it and wondered about that top link your explanation made sense and now i know thanks!!!!
glad it helped!
Dave , you are a pretty cool guy . Your informative & I just like your style . If we lived close we would be talking shop & having a few beers together . I recently commented about my Jerky 3 point & asked if you had any info . about that , i'm sure there are alot of people would like to see how you fixed that ! Send me a notice when you get that video together . Thanks again man .
I actually started editing the video this week . I need to add a little more video showing the valve I used and how I plumbed it in. I know the video will be longer than most but it will be worth it to those who need to know how this fix is holding up and what the static back pressure increases are. I hope to get that video up by next week if not sooner. if you hit the bell it will notify you when I upload and once you see all you want to see just unsubscribe and then subscribe over so you dont get so many notifications about videos you may not be interested in. thanks for being patient with me.
Pretty straight forward stuff but its good to see an explanation. Good vid..
thank you and I appreciate you stopping by my channel and leaving a comment.
Very well Explained! Nice and easy to understand and most helpful to me. Greetings from Down Under (Australia)
always happy to hear from my neighbors down under! greetings from Virginia USA! I always wanted to visit down there maybe some day.
Good video. I learned some things and your video made sense of some of the manuals I was reading.
thank you so much for viewing my video and for the kind remarks. there is so much that is not published about tractors and implements. you may also find my video on setting up a boxblade very useful. additionally my video on how to set your top link on a finish mower is very popular and goes overs some of the finer points associated with properly hooking up a finish mower. again I thank you so much and I'm glad you enjoyed my video. be blessed!
Thanks Buddy, your a big help to me, I'm new to tractors.
glad it helped thanks so very much for watching liking and commenting on my videos. it does help me a lot to see my videos helping others. have fun and be safe tractoring.
The lower set of holes are used when you are using draft control and want to reduce the sensitivity of the draft control Typically when pulling a heavy plow. The lower set has less leverage on the draft control than the upper set and therefore reduces the sensitivity.
You can also use the lower holes for attaching stay straps or limiter chains.
most of these tractors do not have draft control however the ones that do have it have an extra hole that is then used for kubota tractors that have that option. "according to the manufacturer instructions" any hole can be used when using draft control and the hole used is based on the same concept covered in this video. the only exception is the additional hole and the recommended position of the draft control lever. since my tractor does not have draft control and would have been beyond the scope of this video I did not go into that discussion. however that would make a great video addition. " where to connect your top link when using draft control " if you would like to make that video I would be happy to point folks who watch this video in that direction. I will gladly forward you the information sheet from the manufacturer with the information that both this video and a video covering draft control would follow according to Kubota manufacturing. thanks for the input.
Thanks Dave, good to know. My BX only has one option. If I upgrade, at least I'll know.
+GY Solutions thanks for watching.
LOT OF INFO AND VERY HELPFUL. THANKS GUYS
your very welcome and we thank you for watching and sharing our video. be sure and invite your friends to our kubota tractor and equipment group on facebook.
According to my tractor manual you have described it bass akwards. For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake.
· For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade.
· For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.
I got this straight out the owners manual from Kubota corporation. not sure what tractor or manual you are using but by all means go by your tractor manual. this was from my manual that came with my L2800 Kubota. larger or smaller tractors may differ. some have draft control and that is a completely different animal. this model tractor has NO draft control.
@@daveknowshow The info I copied came from my Deere manual. It doesn't have draft control either. Maybe Deere got it wrong? manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMLVU13193_H2/Output/Index.html
Good info... Keep an eye on the angle of the dangle.got it
lol yes in deed!
Thanks for the info.
hope it helps
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and explain this while doing so in terms that a dirt road idiot can understand. Have a great day.
us simple dirt road folks have to stick together.
The three point hitch is a 4 bar linkage that was developed to work with a moldboard plow. The plow has a shoe which makes it sensitive to the inclination angle when engaging soil. The top link holes primarily control the tipping rate (sensitivity). Disks are only sensitive to the upward angle of pull and this can be somewhat controlled with the location of the virtual center of the 4 bar linkage. Look up 4 bar linkages and kinematics for more information. It is informative to make a side view scale drawing including implement geometry and ground level to understand the the 3 point hitch, remember, a plow lifts the soil, and it helps steering to place the (virtual) center of pull forward of the rear wheels and not behind the tractor as you would have with a drawbar. For blades with trailing wheels, the top hole has advantages for grading by placing the virtual center closer to the front wheels and maximizing the planing effect. The primary job of the chains on the lower links is to prevent tire rubs. Tight chains may be needed to control side sway in precise work, but will impact steering and shouldn't be a most of the time thing. Understanding 4 bar linkages will change the way you think about implements. Many people don't bother understanding this and just bolt on lots of weights, water in the tires, etc. Explaining this to hired hands will be frustrating.
yes explaining all that to most folks goes in one ear and out the other. Kubota john deere and most of the other major manufacturers have pointed out the top link hole position as an easy to follow method of achieving a starting point. of course that is merely the starting point as shortening and lengthening the top link also changes the geometric angle of pull on various implements depending on where the actual first point of contact is of the business end of the implement. additionally some tractors have a fourth hole for draft control which adds another portion of discussion in the mix. thank you for a very good comment. hope your weekend has been grand.
Thanks! Great video !! Gary
thanks for watching brother hope you are doing well.
Thank you sir. I have never changed my top link position but have always felt that my box blade should be able to do more. Now I know why.
thank you for watching my video! I have a pretty good video series on the box blade that may interest you since you did mention the box blade. its worth watching. thanks again for the wonderful comment and for taking your time to watch my videos. peace love and respect Dave.
Man, you've got a lot of informative videos. I am going to watch most of them. Thanks for the reply and thanks for taking time to make the videos.
I'm just thrilled people find them useful. it always brings me joy to help others in whatever way I can. keep on tractoring brother peace love and respect!
That's good to know because I didn't know how that was suppose work. Thanks again
glad to be able to help. thank you so much for watching my videos, I hope your having a wonderful summer!
Helpful data, thank you!
thank you for taking the time to watch my videos.
I almost never use the lower holes, (Except when my backhoe is on.) My lowest pin carry's the weight when the backhoe drops in, and the upper pin secures it. I haven had much experience with a finish mower, just brush hog work. I've used other implements like rototillers, and post hole diggers on jobs, but those were on the employers machines, and generally already connected.
Thx, good explanation that made sense
thanks for watching. things have to make sense to me or it drives me nuts trying to understand why it is what it is. again thanks for watching and commenting means a lot!
I like your videos Dave. I definitely think the position of the top link on the tractor has an affect on how much turning of the top link you will have to do to get an angle on your implement like a box blade. I think so e of it may have to do with what type of implement you have based on how high the mounting point for the top link is on the implement. Mounting points that are lower you could use the bottom hole. On implements that have a high mounting point you would use the top hole. Maybe that has something to do with keeping the geometry correct to help level the implement? Also draft control which I know tractors of this size dont really have but on utility tractors and bigger the bottom link is the least sensitive and the top is the most sensitive which is based on soil conditions. Love the videos
draft control is nice and it comes on most of these as an option not standard. the smaller Bseries the draft control is standard on many of those. this model Lseries is the economy model and does not have draft control. sometimes I wish it did. other times I'm glad it dont.
This seems to be directly opposite what my John Deere Manual says. Please comment.
Here it is :
• For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake.
• For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade.
• For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.
it sounds like your john deere is using a " draft control " which is a means to lift the three point automatically if it gets under a heavy load. on some tractor brands the draft control works in all holes and is based on which type of ground engaging implement you have. yours sounds like that type. on others brands like some Kubota tractors the draft control only works on an additional 4th hole. the other three holes are none draft control settings the fourth is a draft control setting hole that operates in conjunction with a draft control lever located at the operator platform. from there you can set the draft controller to be more or less aggressive based on which implement you are using. on some tractors that have auto draft control there is no controller lever at the operator platform instead where you attach the top link governs how aggressive the draft control reacts. I hope this makes sense to you if you have any questions please ask. I was at the time of this video unaware of that type of draft control and had only used the type with a control lever to set the sensitivity of the draft action. on the tractor used in this video there is no fourth hole and thus this tractor used has NO draft control installed.
daveknowshow Thank you!!! Very helpful
glad to help.
thanks for the information
your welcome thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks. I always wondered about the changes in the hole hookup. We use a rear scraper blade to plow snow on our 900 fir long driveway. Its 7 feet long. i can park with the blade downhill on a slope and pivot it so it faces backward to push drifts with. 8 ft is too long. We mostly just angle it and scrape that way. We do a couple of passes per storm. Start at say 7 inches. We are linked in the top hole and I guess it should be the bottom. We use a Woods blade. We do one pass in the road middle and one on each side. If we get alot of snow often you do have to bucket it back. Thanks again for the info, 2004 kubota l 2800 gear tractor 2000 hours,
yes I love my L2800 as well nice machine!
Your tires, industria L
pattern?
@@kennkid9912 yes that is correct
@@daveknowshow Mine are ag lug. They tear a lawn to shreds and rut if you dont go really slow. Industrial are in between , them and landscape?
@@kennkid9912 pretty much yes. they can do damage at times but no where near the damage that Ag tires do on a lawn. its a great choice for the best of both worlds in my honest opinion. now days there are other tire options that you could look into. ask your dealer and take a look. the can order a new set for you with rims. sometimes you can get tires on kubota rims cheaper than just tires alone.
Great advice and loud crickets. Bg
those crickets and frogs get to singing real good around here.
some agricultural equipment comes with a choice of holes for top link position. if you use the lowest hole on the tractor and the highest hole on the implement you gain ground clearance at the back of the implement when it is raised
very interesting, what implement is that? i never seen one that i can recall. thanks for the input.
Thanks for the Video, now i know on my M6800
thanks for dropping by and watching appreciate the comment as well.
Stuff and enjoyed the video!
thanks for stopping by
Fancy! I have a 1972 Massey Ferguson and a 1952 8N with just ONE connection pin hole.
yes and some of the newer small tractors only have 1 hole as well. others have 4 holes with one being dedicated to draft control. it would be nice if they all stuck with the same game plan. lol thanks for dropping by!
Good stuff.
thank you Susan! love and respect!
Another good video!
thanks Jeff!
My documentation is lacking ("this is the preferred hole for the top link"). Most of what I learn are from videos like this or trial and error. Good info!
same here I do a lot of research plus my son use to work for Kubota. that helps alot.
Good information thanks
so glad you found it useful I truly appreciate you dropping by my channel and leaving a comment. hope you find many more useful tractor videos on my channel.
Good information
wish I would have had this youtube when I was learning sure would have sped up the learning curve.
Dave great video. I know this is a little off topic but I believe it's related; what about the holes on the lower three point hitch arms? on my Kubota I have a set of holes on each lower arm which is closer to the Tractor and then another hole which is closer to the Implement. The vertical rods that come from the actual hydraulic lifting arms for the 3 point hitch connected nose holes. how are those used, should I be using the air holes closest to the Tractor are the outer holes closest to the implement
excellent question. those holes affect the lift height and lift strength of the three point. the further in one direction you go the higher the three point will lift your implement. this comes in real handy when using a post hole digger for example. many times the post hole digger will drag the bit when traveling from point A to point B. moving to a higher hole will result in more ground clearance for the bit. contrary to that there are times when you need the three point to go lower. for example when deep plowing a garden with a bottom plow or using a subsoiler. you may need the three point to go lower. the lift strength comes into play due to leverage. in one hole the lift capacity may be 2600lb in the next hole it may be 2000lb all due to leverage from one hole to another. typically the three point will always go low enough for what ever implement your using even in the high lift hole. however generally the hole that lifts the three point the highest is also the hole with the least lift capacity. so when you need that extra lift capacity on the rear you would adjust to the stronger hole. use a measuring tape measure the three point when fully lifted. then move to the furthest or closest hole and measure again. you will see a difference. thank you for a great question!
Thank you sir!
Hope it helps
I know my daddy's Kubota has 4 holes and they are tricky the bottom plow if u hook it in the bottom hole doesn't raise it far of the grind like the top hole does and its a 4900 industrial 2wd . Even does the same with the posthole digger
you need to move the lower lift arm attachment point. 99% of them have multiple holes for that very reason. most of the ones that do not have the extra holes are the very small tractors. hope this helps.
also if it has four holes then it likely has draft control and the top link should go in that draft control position when using the plow.
very helpful
thanks for taking the time to watch my videos and leaving a comment. I'm glad it helped hope your having a blessed weekend.
for my back blade and borrowed box blade and boom i want the least tip when lifting it up or draftso i use 1. everything else i use 3 out of 4 for my hole
if you have draft control then you should use it accordingly. these instructions are for newer small tractors with no draft control option. its based on manufacture instruction recommendations. so just a general guide for safest bet for those inexperienced operators. you can always adjust as you learn your specific machine and develop your own skill set. thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I hope your having a blessed day!
Didn't know myself. Just got a post hole digger hoping to get it higher then using the top hole. Much easier then reading manual if it is even there. lol thanks
not sure what model tractor you have but i will make a new video showing a way to raise your post hole digger to its highest point. stay tuned!
czcams.com/video/Wwwvu2zRz1E/video.html
check my new video on post hole digger height adjustment
Shane Gilles.
you get the most tip ie distance lift by using the bottom hole.
@@tractorboy31 it's the angle of the dangle...
The angle of the dangle is very important
I like my dangle at multiple angles. lol
Thank you bud.
thank you for stopping by
Thanks for this video. I have a hydraulic top link to install. I think I’ll put it on the middle space.
Can you ask the Cicadas to keep the noise down next time???
lol them and the frogs will make you lose your mind at times. lol yes I went in the middle with my hydraulic top link. you can run into clearance issues with any hole except the middle with some of those. go slow testing for clearance as the raise and lower once the top link is on. mine hit and broke lost a lot of fluid that day.
thanks.
thank you! for taking the time to watch my videos.
I was always told that the top lick was to parallel with the ground with your implement working
I heard that as well although it sometimes does not work out that way. Seems to me they were referring to setting up a disc or plow.
Thanks Bro!
glad to help and thank you for stopping by the channel.
Good job! I have a john deere 3025E with a 3 point rear hitch - on the 3 point hitch where should I set the top hook that grabs a box blade or rear plow - I have a 3 position hook
check the owners manual but if its like this Kubota it will be the lower hole or the center hole.
great explaination
n
thanks for stopping by the channel
So put it in the middle for a quick hitch?
Really been using my box blade and saw today it was in the top position. 48.5 hrs on tractor..... novice at best.
I was wondering because i was having to adjust my top link drastically in and out to get the performance i wanted. So by moving to the lower or middle i should have better response per turn in or out. Am i getting the jist?
the position is about the angle by which the top link pulls on the top section of the "A" frame of the implement. it marginally affects the load on the tractor when pulling say a bottom plow for making a garden. also some tractors have draft control which only works in one position. on some of the older Kubota's they have 4 holes instead of three and the top hole is for "draft control". on other brand and model tractors the pattern for position is the opposite. make sure you check your owners manual to make sure your model is the same as the one shown in this video. also if you follow my video on how to set up a boxblade the angle of the dangle you will learn about neutral position and your top link adjustment is typically not real extreme in either direction from neutral to gain the best results. find neutral on the top link and then adjust one inch shorter on the top link or one inch longer on the top link. go from there adjusting a little further than 1 inch or a little less than one inch in either direction to gain the best results. I'm here if you need additional help. Dave in Virginia
For any brand of quick hitch, would you recommend using the lower hole to be safe?
yes I would. however if you add a hydraulic top link you may find the center hole is the best hole to avoid damaging the hydraulic line on the toplink. but yes I use the bottom hole with the quick hitch most of the time.
Thank you Dave. I have an older Kubota 4wd tractor. The top link is missing. I emplaning to get a drawbar T thing to pull stuff. My top link is missing. What would you get
top links are fairly cheap. I would figure out what the measurements of the factory one was and buy an after market one. the draw bar if your speaking of the ones that attach at the lower lift arms do not typically attach to a top link. it would need to be modified to hook up to a top link. it could be done though.
Have you ever hook up a Hydraulic Top Link if so can you do a video of it and and where would you put the control box or can I get one from Kubota?
I have a complete series on installing rear remotes and a double spool valve for top and tilt. hete
czcams.com/play/PLLg8VIC7effqrGAhXOOoqLmKfjL20hS6O.html
My TC29DA Operator Manual says lower hole for light draft such as mowers and top hole for heavier draft, ground engaging. Now I'm confused?? I'm installing hydraulic top link and thought I'd check out some videos since no info came with shipment.
you are correct some manuals state the opposite the only thing I can figure is that it has something to do with the angle of the three point size of tractor and whether or not it has draft control on that specific model. my owners manual explains it just as I did in this video. you should follow your specific model owners manual and disregard this video as it applies to Kubota L series tractors and may differ from other make and model tractors. sorry for the confusion. I may redo this video to explain that better.
Dave I have a Kubota B2910 that I bought used and when I raise the rear arms they do not move until I am at 8 on the lever. Haven't been able to find any information on why or how I can get a greater range? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! This video helped me with a question I had for a while about which hole for which implements. Thumbs up!
sounds like the feed back rod is out of adjustment. I show the feed back rod in a video and where its located on my tractor. it may be in a different place on your tractor. that rod tells the three point when to lift and how high to lift before stopping. czcams.com/video/6xxWubTowz8/video.html
@@daveknowshow Thanks for the reply and information! I found my feedback rod, on the B2910 it is on the passenger side and is very short compared to yours. Does not appear to be bent other than the factory bends. I said my lever does not raise to 8 but it is actually at 5 that it starts to raise the rear arms. 7.5 to 8 is when my belly mower first moves. Any idea of which way to adjust the nuts on the feedback rod to get control of the full range on the lever, 1-8? Also should the belly mount for my mower have more range than it does (7.5-8) or is that the extent of the travel I can expect? Basically right now I have up or down between 7 and 8. UPDATE: I found another forum on tractors.net www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/4261-three-point-control-range-5.html that talks about this problem. Seems as though it is commonly experienced but no answer for it other than it is what it is. Range tends to start between 4 or 5 and raises until 8 for the rear arms. Haven't found anyone with a similar model that says they have full range 1-8.
Can you do a video on how to dig a pond with a box blade, just how you can dig a few inches at a time... also video on how to set up a cutter properly... my cutter just leans grass over... not sure what to do
already have a video series on setting up a brush hog cutter. if your finish mower is laying grass over the blades are likely dull. stay tuned for a video about the pond with a boxblade.
It doesn't matter what one you use cause you can ADJUST the top link! That is why you can drew it in OR out!
not true, the holes have zero to do with the length of the top link. they have to do with pull angle and draft control on models with draft control. pull angle establishes how strong a pull you will have. a finish mower needs no real pulling strength or angle but a bottom plow needs the correct pulling angle and strength. all this information came straight out the tractors owners manual. so if its wrong then every tractor manual out there is wrong.
That is correct. I use the bottom for my no- till grain drill per the instructions. Good video!
Excellent Video, When I Moved It To The Bottom Hole My Box Blade Worked Better And Moved Up And Down With No Delay. On the Top Hole It Would Not Draft Down Properly And Would Not Stop Going Up Until It Maxed Out. I Thought My 3pnt Hyd Were Messed Up . One Day I Will Read My Manual, Thanks Dave, Excellent Video "Keep It Simple"
It would be great if you made a video about the type of grease you use
I was just thinking about making a video on this grease gun I been testing out so maybe I will include the grease I use as well.
@@daveknowshow yea i think it would be great
Hmm good video helpful in reference points. Odd you take the time to make an informative video and in the comment section boom hundreds of tractor experts to debate your info..... that's funny.... if y'all are so all knowing make your own videos... again thanks for info
seems to be standard on youtube to a degree. there are some nice appreciative folks on here though. they make it worth the effort to create decent content. its funny how they want to debate what is actually in 99% of tractor manuals. its not like I simply make this stuff up. most of it comes from hundreds of years of collective experience found in books with a touch of my own personal way of logically doing things that even someone like me who has a learning disability can understand. thanks for expressing TRUTH its rarely seen on youtube. appreciate it. peace love and respect.
You are correct Randy! I grew up on a farm and live on it. Have been operating tractors since I could reach the clutch! In my case I have never really thought much about setting until now! Most everything for me is hook and run. Typical day is box blade here, bush hog around feedlot and barn, then disc mower and off to hay fields across different tractors. As I have grown up and have had to take charge due to dad getting old these things mean a lot! Why I love this channel a good find.
I find that at my age...almost 50....the angle of my dangle has changed but still like the most aggressive hole I can get.
lol I know the feeling at 58 I need all the help with finding the right angle I can get. sometimes a little aggressiveness is what it takes to get that angle just right for the proper hole. somedays any hole is better than no hole at all. lol
@@daveknowshow lol...o hear you man
I learned in the navy that there is no wrong hole
lol I tend to agree
Ooo
You have positions backwards. Top is ground implements. Box implement etc. ground engaging.
not according to my manual from Kubota this machine does not have draft control
Finish mowers and rough the same place?
yes pretty much they just come along for the ride back there and not really "ground engaging" like say a plow.
How about videos on jacks? When not to use bottle jacks.
I like bottle jacks and use them for lots of things that I likely should not. lol
I guess a brush hog would be in the middle hole please let me know
yes the middle would be fine. in fact I have gone to using the middle for just about all the implements its a decent spot to be for me because I dont get aggressive with the tractor anyway.
how about a brush mower? top of middle?
top or middle either one is fine I generally use the top for the mowers.
Ok used aftermarket top link on Kubota?
sure I use a hydraulic one. but most aftermarket ones will work so long as the length is correct
so a regular bush hog would be at the top? What about the middle hole?
keep in mind this is specific to this model kubota tractor that has no draft control. your model may be the complete opposite. check your owners manual!
@@daveknowshow My tractor is a Kubota L2501 HST , I don’t find any mention of draft control in operators manual that I got.
@@michaelgrigsby7784 draft control on the l2501 is an add on option that rarely gets added. your manual should show the orientation and where each implement goes for top link hook up. i can try to pull up your manual and look for it.
What size Kubota is that in the video ?
L2800
Would you sue them bottom hole for a disk
yes ground engaging implement is best in the lower hole.
Crush that guard soon as ya drop that implement.
guard does not bother me in the least. it hinges up and down easy enough but not to loose. never had an implement touch the guard in all the years I been operating tractors.
Brush hog center or bottom hole Dave-or should I just experiment with it?
middle or top hole for a brush hog
this explains it too
www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/which-top-link-hole-to-use-an-illustrative-model.409891/
thanks for sharing
A lot of folks don't read their manual that far......Like my neighbor! lol
+dwight fry I don't like reading manuals either until after I make all the mistakes and then wonder why things are not working out. that's when I read. lol so yea I'm pretty guilty myself.
daveknowshow questions
Dave's statements in this video are the exact OPPOSITE of what my owner's manual and other youtube channels say. Anyone watching this should do some more research to learn for themselves.
always check your owners manual. this is where I got this information for this specific model tractor from the owners manual. I think I even stated to be sure and check your owners manual in the video.
🤣🤣🤣🤦🏻♂️
glad to see you here
Good info. Thank you.
glad to help