Scott Spark suspension full service with tips
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Performing a full suspension service on a Scott Spark RC 900 (model year 2019 - but all 3rd generation Sparks 2017-2021 will be same) with some tips and hints.
I would recommend to make this service every approx 50 hours of ridding (or more frequent if in tough conditions) and together with fork & shock service. It takes approx 5-6 hours to make it correctly, but is worth it as it dramatically extends the lifetime of the bike and makes it feel like new.
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Beautiful to watch you work dude, great tutorial. Thank you!
Really appreciate your comment! Thank you ;-)
Nice service! I’m 17 years old and I very like bike maintenance, I dream about Scott Spark RC but I don’t have enough money. I’m from Ukraine.
Thanks. You are very young, when I was in your age I was riding a heavy steel bike with no suspension and dreaming of upgrading it with 8 speed Shimano Acera rear mech. Be patient, learn mechanics and I am sure sooner or later you will get a bike that you dream of. I wish you all the best!
@@custombikefactory thank you very much! And thank you for supporting my country
@@custombikefactory two years ago I upgraded my bike to 1x11 speed Deore M5100 myself, before this I have 3x7 Acera
@@mtb717 Very nice upgrade and personally I actually prefer 1x11 over 1x12
Some great tips in this video. Thanks!
You are most welcome Chris!
Hi,great turorial! Many thanks🙂today I did a maintenance of the Scott RC rear triangle as the video here and works perfectly…😉
Please could you record and place a video here of the maintenance of FOX fork and the rear shock? Many thanks🙂
Hi Lukas, thanks for kind words and congrats with your succesful service! Since I record the videos for free, I have some other priorities and can only add content from time to time, I also do not want to spam the youtube with redundant content. There is really a lot of good videos of servicing the shocks and forks, just ensure that you watch everything before servicing to figure if this is doable for you. Also keep in mind, that often the videos hide some important details, so check multiple videos and than execute. Good luck and thank you for the comment!
Un buen desmantelamiento.
Great video my friend. Can't wait to watch more...
Thank you! This motivates me a lot!
Very helpful video !
Very Good video for servicing. thank you for sharing this !! :)
Thank you for kind words ;-)
Nice
Hello, the washers that have the white dot on the swingarm axis, how are they mounted? with the point out and towards the pods? sorry for my bad english, i don't speak it very well
No problem David, this part should be mounted with the white dot facing towards the frame.
And does the point have to have a specific address? the function of the dot side is to tighten the bearing?
@@ferredeli I think this dot is result of how this part was made, maybe through some molding technique, I see no function of it.
Thanks a Lot! Good job!
Very informative instruction video! Do you also know how to replace (remove) the bearings that sit inside the frame just above the crank house? (Where the rear triangle is attached to the frame :)
Thanks! Yes, maybe I will make another video about it, but basically you can press them out with a dedicated tool or gently hammer it out.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you! pozdr!
Dzięki ;-)
Hi, rellay great video, I'm usually doing the same steps when disassembling mine. When I'm using Muc-off Bike Cleaner the bike starts creaking, maybe because of its aggressive coumpound, I don't know, but I need to disassambly and grease everything with Finishline Teflon grease.
What I want to ask you, I changed all the cables/hoses (Jagwire), but I have issues with the rear shock, it's not unlocking 100%, I need to push it with the finger.
I did a near 90° angle with the hose internally in the frame, to reach the rear shock. But it got stuck when trying to unlock the rear shock.
Do you have any photo or suggestion, how to install the internal cable/hose correctly to not have issues during the unlocking?
Thanks in advance,
Manuel
Hi Manuel and thanks. Not sure if I understood your question correctly - but let me try to answer. The line for the rear shock goes through a J bend connector similar to V-breaks system - it makes the cable to work smooth without tight angles. This part is located at the end of the hose inside the frame just before exiting through a rubber seal - so it is important to keep it, not rely just on the hose itself. Now the key to have a full lockout working is to ensure that when you assemble the shock connection with the cable in open position, your barrel adjuster of the twinlock is fully screwed in. This will allow you to remove any slack of the line in the hose after you attach it to the shock - just turn it counter clockwise to add tension to find the spot where the lockout is being available. If you will add too much tension, you will not be able to trigger the full lock or it will need a lot of strength - in this case just turn the barrel inside few times.
Hope this helps you.
What is the name of the product you use to hold the rear triangle? Is it attached to your bike stand? Looks super handy.
It is a 3rd hand from my old bike stand - simply a telescopic stick with rubber straps at both ends
Hi, thanks for the video. It was very comprehensive and full of special tips.
Would you mind telling if you add any sort of grease or oil in the final assembly of the bearings?
Thanks again!
Thank you Ramon! I make sure to clean it and do not put additional grease because it will attract and keep dirt which will ruin the bearing very quickly. This way I am loosing additional water protection, but it would last for short time anyway. If you service this suspension regularly - trust me you will be able to ride many seasons without need to replace them. BTW, this is how factory puts the Scott bikes together.
@@custombikefactory Hi there! That's surprising. So it is just about cleaning the bolts and bushes and then build them back without any grease?! 😱 Just the thread lock and that's it!
Fantastic than you and all the best!
@@ramon4130 Yes, but remember to clean not only bolts, but also ball bearing seals from outside and ceramic bushings - they wear off quickly if dirty. You can also add a drop of oil on the internal part of the rear suspension axle too. Cheers!
Picked up loads of little tips here. Thanks for a really well done video. Also, what is the maximum permissible travel on this frame? Stock is 130/120 front and rear.
Great ti hear! This is 3rd generation of Spark so the travel for RC version is 100mm, for the normal version it is 120mm. RC can be customized to handle 120 as well, but it will need linkage change.
@@custombikefactory Ah. Okay. I have the 2021 expert and hence was wondering how much of a crossover between trail and xc I could have :D
Does anyone know of a video that shows you how to remove the lower (chainstay) bearings? Thanks.
When I will have a chance, I will try to make such video, as I also not seen one.
hej właśnie robiłem serwis swojego sparka wydaje mi sie ze problem z nieszczelnością przy łożysku z prawej strony wynikał z nie do końca wprasowanego łożyska. U mnie po dobrym wprasowaniu nowych łożysk wszystko pasuje idealnie *Spark RC WC pozdrawiam.
Dzięki za informacje!
This helped a lot. Question, on the crankset, which side does the spacer go on? I've totally rebuilt the bike and bearings, but I can't find the tech manual to tell me. It's like a 2.5mm spacer. Drive side or Non Drive Side? Thanks!
Thanks James, glad it was helpfull! This spacer goes on the drive side. Here is the spec for DUB cranks www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/dub-mtb-and-road-cranksets-and-bottom-brackets-user-manual.pdf
Hello. Thanks for the video! I have a Spark 970 from 2020. Can you tell me if it is possible to mount a chain guide on it and if so where does the guide mount onto the frame? Thanks
Yes, the original chain guide is part of the swing arm main assembly bolt, check here www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/spark_900_swingarm_(2020)-9553
Great video thanks for the tips! I am rebuilding a Scott Spark 900 and have a question. With the rear shock removed from the frame, if you cycle the suspension/rear triangle through all of its travel should there be some resistance about midway through the stroke? Thank you for your help @custombikefactory
Thanks! I do not feel as a suspension expert, but I did not experienced something like you describe. Check your shock if maybe it has to many tokens or if it requires a full rebuild.
Hello! I noticed that my Spark Rc has a little play in the rear suspension. I checked both side T30 torque. We have an other Spark Rc in our workshop, with the same issue. Is it normal? Best, Sebastian
Hi Seb! In the model that I serviced there is absolutely zero play in the sus (bike have around 4kkm). From my experience with full sus bikes, the play appears over time mostly because the bushings wear off due to dirt (greasing them attracts more dirt) or the bearings fail. The only strange thing that I noticed on Scott Sparks mk3 is that they have a small gap from the drive side on one of the bolts that leaves room for the dirt - I explained it on the video. This is common on all the bikes I seen.
@@custombikefactory Hi, thanks for your reply. I noticed this play 3 Spark out of 6. I will ask Scott Service Support. Best, Sebastian
@@sebestyenfeldhoffer6213 Just to tell you, I also have play in the rear susp on my spark RC (2019). I will be doing a full service soon so I will also check the shock bushings
@@sebestyenfeldhoffer6213 did Scott come backj with anything? I have the exact same problem and it's really frustrating as cannot seem to resolve it. can feel the play when i touch the shock mounts top/bottom.
@@crotmout did you manage to resolve it?
Thanks for this tutorial. One question, do I need to grease the bushings at 14:18 or just clean them?
Thanks! I do not grease these and so does not the factory - grease here will only attract dirt.
Great tutorial man! I've a question... Can't unbolt the screw just above the bottom bracket. It keeps on turning but wouldn't come loose. Thanks in advance 😊!
Most probably the thread is broken and you need to cut it and replace with a new one. Unfortunately these are aluminium bolts prone to wear.
I have same bike and i love it so much.
I have some scratches and the paint is badly damaged...
Do you know where can i buy spray with same color?
In my country i can't find this color becouse it's fluorescent
Unfortunately I have no idea what color id is this, but fixing bigger scratches is not easy, iven if you have same colour you might need to repaint it all to achieve a good result. Maybe think about putting some black protective foil to cover the scratches if repainting is not an option for you.
Hello. Great video. May I ask what do you use to clean the bearings etc.?
A good degreaser works well (for example Muckoff) - just put it on cloth or rag and not directly on the bearing seals and gently rub the dirt out.
What kind of material did you used to make this washer for low bearing?
Butyl rubber from a quality inner tube works very well - just use a road tube that is thinner than a regular or MTB tube.
Good tutorial. Congratulations. I have a spark rc and one of the frame bearings makes a lot of noise. I think it will have to be replaced. Can you tell me what the bearing size is? Thanks
I would need to check the exact model number, however it is a standard sized, double sealed bearing, but in a version that is packed with a lot more steel balls inside (normal bearing carring standard number of balls would wear off much faster and would not be as precise in motion).
6802vrsu
How do you extract the xd hub... I can't take it out...
If you mean the stock hubs on the Syncross wheels, you just need to undo one bolt (counter clockwise thread) and simply take it out - no need to remove the cassette.
What greace did you use for the headset bearings and cranks please?
Good quality LT43 does the job or Shimano antiseize is also very good for this
ive got a scott genius and there is a very very small amount of play in what feels like a bushing on the suspension. any ideas? it causes the bike to have a slight rattle.
It probably is the damper bushing similar to this www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=251
i think i have the same issue on my Spark. if i lift bike and put it down there some play. I can feel it in the rocker triangle/shock but cannot seem to fix. I have replaced the bushings in the shock mounts too....
Where to buy or order scott genius 750 swingarms repair kit?
Best option is to try your local Scott dealer or disti, if not possible, try online, like www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/search?q=scott+genius
Hi, great tutorial! But I need some help.
I'm struggling to unscrew the first pivot - the one you need to go clockwise to unscrew. It goes almost all the way in, but then just stops moving forward. It just turns quite easily, but doesn't progress to go out. Tried to apply some pressure - no result.
When start screwing it back, i.e. turning the key counter-clockwise, it easily returns back to it's initial position, so it seems it never looses contact with the thread.
Any idea how to handle this case?
Hmm, hard to diagnose remotely, but try to squize the two aluminum pieces that holds the damper in the area of this bolt and apply a bit of force when the bolt feels like it is loosing contact with thread.
@@custombikefactory the whole thing just started producing metal shavings without any progress :(
@@iliavishnevsky9882 Not good. In this case it needs to be taken out by force. After that, you have 2 options. Option #1 is rethreading of the rocker and picking a new bolt. Option #2 is to go to Scott dealer and ask if they are able to provide this part, or alternatively you can search it on some markets with used parts.
@@custombikefactory Hey man! Do you know the thread size where this part screws on? I f'ed up the thread and want to fix it with a helicoil insert. Thank you!!
@@JuanJuan-te8fk I do not record this value and have currently no way to check, so what I would suggest is to measure it - blog.brennaninc.com/how-to-measure-threads-in-three-steps
So you don't add grease to the bearings or axle bolts, just clean them from any dirt?
Yes. I found that on the long run adding grease just attracts dirt that you are unable to clean later. Bearings should be greased, but only from inside, they have rubber seals not to let water in. Outside it should stay clean. I actually degrease all the bushings and externals. They are made from ceramic and they are designed to have direct contact, if you grease them they will not work correctly. On threads I use locktite instead of grease. Also Spark suspension from factory is not assembled using any grease in these places so for me this is the final argument.
@@custombikefactory Right, so it's Ok to take seal from the bearing, see if it's dry, clean and add some grease inside the bearing? Also, how did you make the additional bearing seal for the drive side?
@@ilkicognjen Correct. The bearings used in suspension are special versions and they differ from a standard bearing, they are packed with balls to the maximum and do not contain a cage in order to make them last much longer so they are very tough. This is a common procedure to open them and clean inside instead of just pressing out and replacing, however I would have 2 important remarks. If the bearing is running smooth, than I would never open it - just like in the case of my video. Reason for this is, that when removing the rubber seal from bering, you can easily damage it and it will no longer provide a good sealing capability. Secondly, if you open the bearing, ensure you clean it with degreaser and use high preasure air. This is only way to make a good clean. Later apply as much grease as possible, but wipe the excess outside of the seal.
I have a question about scott twinloc please, is it okay to leave it on traction control and going downhill and hitting small drops ??
Traction control mode only limits the oil flow and effectively cuts down the travel by approx 30% so there should be no problem as long as you are not bottoming out a lot. Actually Scott XC racers do use this mode quite a lot (but also their bikes get very frequent service). What could actually do damage is riding in full lockout in terrain a lot. Advanced dampers like RockShox Charger that use shim stacks are sensitive as they are very thin elements and can eventually bend due to impacts.
@@custombikefactory it was my first time riding it with traction control for a short distance on a downhill trail because the lever doesn't released to open mode , but the full lock is working well , I think that there isn't a problem
@@bachirsouccar8224 no worries, this is not a problem, enjoy riding the bike!
@@custombikefactory thank you bro 😊
Hi I have a Scott Spark RC 900 comp 2019 and also want to have my suspension serviced. Dissemble the fork is no problem but do I need to dissemble the whole frame construction around the rear shock as you did? I only want to dissemble the rear shock and send this to a bike suspension specialist..
It is possible to remove the shock without the suspension elements disasembly, however a big benefit of disasembling the suspension, is that you can clean it. It is as important as the shock service. Good luck!
@@custombikefactory thank you! Do you also have tips how to get the 3 twinloc modes back into place? For the fork and the damper
I can't get it back to the original settings (locked, intermediate, open)
Twinlock has 2 separate barrel adjusters to control the tension of the cable for fork and shock independently. Make sure, that there is no slack when you mount the cable in open position (default one). After that, if you are unable to achieve the full lockout on fork or shock, increase the pull tension using the fork or shock barrel adjuster on twinlock shifter. Typically, shock will need a bit of tension increase but it depends on how healthy it is. Hope this helps, let me know if you managed to get it working.
My bike is back. Damper is fully locked bud the fork not. Even when it is switched to fully locked I am still able to push the fork like 2 cm… is this normal? Or is fully locked also fully locked for the fork?
What kind of chain guide is that? TIA
This is a standard stock Scott chain guide that you get with this Spark generation bikes
@@custombikefactory i just got my 2nd hand scott spark 940 2017 year model. What type is that so i can buy im from ph🇵🇭 and my ask again may rear shox does have lockout rear shox? I dont have the twinloc i need to buy that also
@@jamesjapson6115 Try asking your local Scott dealer, they should be able to gather these parts. Alternatively you can search online, like here www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/chainguide_set_for_spark_(2017)_and_spark_plus_(2017)-12163
You said 150 pounds on the back suspension? Thanks!!
not sure, what do you mean - PSI? FOX damper will usually work on higher volume than 150, but this is personal setting.
Yes thanks 150psi I put that and now is working pretty good!!!
Hi! Torx 30 or 40? For suspension
Use Torx 30 for all the suspension bolts, just remember that they are aluminium so it is easy to damage them.
@@custombikefactory thanks alot! my old spark has everything on allen key, and there is no question, but here I need new tools and I will be careful :)
10:04 - here comes the cockroach :))
Hahaha, wow, great eye! Will need to take care of him...
Do U know the weight of the fork?
Yes, it is 1648 grams (Rock Shox SID RL3 B1 2019) with axle and cut steerer tube
Dzieki ;) bo mysle nad wymiana na sida 120mm i jak wagowo to zmieni
@@piotrha7952 pewnie nieco ciezej bedzie, ale nie zawsze warto odchudzac jak chcesz troche ostrzej jezdzic
@@custombikefactory dlatego fajnie ze mam od Ciebie realna wage amora.
a wazyles moze mniej wiecej sama rame? To jest ta rama carbon HMF? ja mam tez rc900 tyle ze z 2020
@@piotrha7952 Tak, wszystko dokładnie ważyłem, ale musiałbym poszukać tej informacji. Pamiętam że kompletna rama z osprzętem, łożyskami i damperem ważyła ok 2200 gram. I tak to jest rama HMF, wersja HMX jest od modelu WorldCup. Jest jeszcze HMX SL, ale podobno przesadzili z odchudzaniem i Nino Schurter nie chciał na niej jeździć ;-)
11:37 - this is not ceramic....
Yes, this is some polymer so closer to plastic than ceramic