You should jack up the suspension so it's in it's normal position before tightening the front control arm bolt. If this isn't done, the rubber bushing is stressed and will fail prematurely.
Thank you so much for making this video. You have no idea how helpful it is. I assumed I'd need all manner of tools for this job, but it's remarkably straightforward. Thank you again!
I did my passenger side a couple months ago and just today finally did my driver's side. I again had to cut off the welded top captive nut on the frame with a Sawzall and then cut thru the bushing. Be careful not to cut into the frame while sawzalling. I replaced the cptive nut and bolt with a Grade 8 bolt, nut and washers from Lowes. I brought the control arm into Lowes and just went thru the bins until I found a perfect fit thru the bushing sleeve. Another piece of advice for reassembly: Insert the bushing into the frame first and tap your new bolt up thru the bottom. Slather anti seize lube on the new bolt threads etc. so it will be easier take apart if you ever need to do it again. Spin the new nut on a couple turns just to keep your new bolt from falling out. Now get a screwdriver or small prybar and spread open the seam on the knuckle. Try to really spread the knuckle so that the stub on the actual ball joint can drop in easily. I also put some grease on the ball joint stub and rubbed some inside the knuckle too. Then carefully work the forward hanger bushing like halfway into it's slot while at the same time lining up the ball joint stub with the knuckle. Then tap from the bottom gently to insert the ball joint stub into the knuckle. Put in the pinch bolt finger tight and then work on getting the forward hanger bushing bolt (the long one that goes in horizontally) started, you may need to tap with a hammer to seat it and then tightned that finger tight also. Now jack up the suspension a few inches by putting a jack under the brake rotor and jack up the suspension a few inches. Then once jacked up tighted all the bolts very tightly. This is very important because the suspension should be at ride height when you tighten the bolts or else the bushings will get tweaked and fail very soon. Then let the supsnesion down, put wheel back on, and go get an alignment at a shop.
The Front Bushing bolt, the second one pulled should have been tightened when the car had all the weight on it so it wont twist the rubber bushing and cause it to fail in 5~15,000 Km
Я живу в Кыргызстане, сам один из 15-20 человек, у кого есть SX4, очень редкая машина у нас, даже мини куперов больше. Так вот недавно застучала шаровая на левом рычаге на пробеге 191 тысяча км, хотел поменять и искал, только под заказ, ждать около месяца. Пошел в сервис, мне предложили реставрацию шаровой, ее выпрессовали, токарь сделал заменяемой, поставили на место рычаг, после поменяли мне еще вертикальные сайленты и все отлично, машинка как мячик, мягкая и плавная стала.
@@Dan-sr9wy а я свою ласточку продал с пробегом 110 т.км , 8 лет пользовался.Ничего плохого сказать не могу.Машина не самая массовая конечно, но было время когда у нас в Кузбассе было 2 оф.дилера Сузуки.
just replaced one, the nut that they heat is captive, you just need to undo the bolt from the under side. bent my spanners trying to undo it like in the video. from underside it took seconds to remove the bolt
Под конец собрали неправильно: затягивать надо рычаг (в данном случае только передний Сайлент), когда машина стоит на колесах, так дольше проходит. А шаровой от таких постукиваний ничего не будет. Но можно очистителем тормозов отверстие промыть и железной щеткой пройтись. А можно отверткой разжать посадочное.
Да, когда закрутили в висячем положении, а потом поставили на колеса сайлентблок выворачивает и в дальнейшем на кочках его еще больше надрывает, сайлентблок должен стоять в свободном состоянии, короче жопа ему будет через пару тысяч км.
Slight design difference with my 2009 model, the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint on mine has a nut - the knuckle isn't threaded. It's also a pain to change since holding that nut can be difficult when removing it. edit: oh gosh you made the mistake of trying to break the 21MM nut and not removing the bolt from below!
Gopalan Jayaraaj How long “roughly” did the job take you? I know there’s comments on here that are saying a few things were done incorrectly. I’ll be doing this job this weekend. Thanks
Please update this video with a disclaimer about taking the top nut off ... As others have mentioned it is WELDED TO THE SUBFRAME. You will brake tools or at best the welds on the nut trying to take it off. Only apply an impact or breaker bar to the bolt on the underside of the car. In my case the sleeve of the bushing was fused with rust to the bolt so after I broke the welds after watching this video turning the bolt did not thread it out but turned the rubber bushing. If this happens to you, i found cutting out some of the rubber to fit a small pipe wrench on the sleeve will work to lock the sleeve from spinning with the bolt to break the rust bond. Even with that it was still a fight the whole way out on that one bolt. DONT TOUCH THE TOP NUT. penetrating oil and heat, yes, putting torque on it, no.
No wonder they had problems backing off that nut, it is a captive nut and shouldn't be moved, they must have heated it up enough to soften the weld. The bolt is removed by un-torquing from below. Also the two long bolts are normally single use and should be replaced. if they have a Scottish saltire type symbol with a dot below it on the head they are single use.
I went to do this but don't have 21mm and torch here, so I am going to pay it in a mechanic.The bolts are like welded.They are very tight.125000KM and very bad roads in Greece.
On my 2008 SX4 I could not get the frame bushing bolt out and had to cut it off with a sawzall. I cut above and below the bushing, got the control arm out, then cut that welded nut off the frame and knocked out what was left with an hammer and punch, I got a new grade 8 bolt and nut at the hardward store and replaced it. This is not a fun job.
@@jennypop4747 I brought the control arm into Home Depot and tested a bunch of Grade 8 bolts from the bins until I found the best fit thru the bushing sleeve.
Ребят, вопрос к вам, а гайка, которую вы трубой откручивали (заднего сайлентблока), точно должна откручиваться? У меня SX4 2008г и когда я менял свои рычаги, просто снизу выкрутил болт, поменял рычаг и закрутил обратно. По-моему эта гайка должна быть приварена...
YOU DON'T REMOVE THAT UPPER NUT!!!!! It's part of the subframe member and is not removable. I broke two breaker bars and bent a wrench following this video. Just remove the 17mm bolt from underneath which is very easy in comparison. This video needs to be edited/corrected. I can't believe it's been up for nearly 4 years without correction.
Hi I am doing this on 2005 Suzuki Aerio but the bolt you pulled out at 4:12 is just spinning but not coming out and there is not room to get access to the nut. How do I remove this bolt.
Amazing video. I was waiting this video. Please. What is km this car? Do you have video or indicates some exchange of fluids (brakes and radiator)? Thank you
i just wanna say I love all your videos they are excellent! i did want to ask though why you tap on the axle nut with the hammer and small pointed file.
зачем горелкой греть и срывать верхнюю гайку ? по инструкции, ключем на 17 открутить снизу болт. Верхняя должна быть припаяна к подрамнику. По вашему видео можно инструмент сломать.
Is it 'overkill' to grease the (shoulder?) bolts and threads on the replacement assembly? Am about to replace my right hand side component too at 60 000 miles. Can anyone suggest best brand replacement tyres for a 2012 UK Front Wheel Drive 1.6 Automatic please? UK roads continue to deteriorate! Anyone know if a Workshop Manual is available anywhere worldwide please?
Hello thank you for your your video but I have a question my car mechanic told me that I have to change lower left control arm with ball joint on my Suzuki SX4 2010, $312 part which is Moog, and $262 remove and replace F controlarm bushing and also $89.00 wheel alignment- one side for a total of $665 but he told he will give me discount of 25% and bring the price down to $498. He told me it takes 2 hours to fix is it really takes 2 hours to fix I want to be sure he is not cheating me on part price and labor cost and do I really need to do wheel alignment. Do you think $498 good price I think $312 for lower control arm is too expensive because I see Moog lower control arm on eBay is just $85 should I buy it on eBay and fix it somewhere else and also I m mot rich guy to spend that much what can happen if I just leave as it is? Without changing lower arm control? Can a wheel brake and I crush my car at highway speeds! If I drive slow will it make difference? And how do I know that I really need change lower control arm I don’t want to pay for something that I don’t need to fix! Thanks guy and by the way I speak Russian too and live in New York! God bless you!
It does take 2 hours to change both and do an alignment. The only thing I dont like is the price on the Moog arms. Buy the parts on rockauto.com and pay him for labour. Dont neglect the suspension. Do it.
Hey buddie! Need some help. My Sx4 Suzki! Only 51k miles has these two problems. Control arms and tie rod replacement. The car dealer claims it costs 3k to fix all this but that's bullshit. How much is it for each piece do you know?
Definitely do impact.. soak some penetrant in the crack and impact to break/shock the rust. Using a long ratchet or wrench can shear the head as its a small bolt.
Друзья не надо греть гайку вертикального заднего саленблока гайка приварена контактной сваркой , болт легко отварачивается с низу
You should jack up the suspension so it's in it's normal position before tightening the front control arm bolt. If this isn't done, the rubber bushing is stressed and will fail prematurely.
Thank you so much for making this video. You have no idea how helpful it is. I assumed I'd need all manner of tools for this job, but it's remarkably straightforward. Thank you again!
I did my passenger side a couple months ago and just today finally did my driver's side. I again had to cut off the welded top captive nut on the frame with a Sawzall and then cut thru the bushing. Be careful not to cut into the frame while sawzalling. I replaced the cptive nut and bolt with a Grade 8 bolt, nut and washers from Lowes. I brought the control arm into Lowes and just went thru the bins until I found a perfect fit thru the bushing sleeve.
Another piece of advice for reassembly: Insert the bushing into the frame first and tap your new bolt up thru the bottom. Slather anti seize lube on the new bolt threads etc. so it will be easier take apart if you ever need to do it again. Spin the new nut on a couple turns just to keep your new bolt from falling out.
Now get a screwdriver or small prybar and spread open the seam on the knuckle. Try to really spread the knuckle so that the stub on the actual ball joint can drop in easily. I also put some grease on the ball joint stub and rubbed some inside the knuckle too.
Then carefully work the forward hanger bushing like halfway into it's slot while at the same time lining up the ball joint stub with the knuckle. Then tap from the bottom gently to insert the ball joint stub into the knuckle. Put in the pinch bolt finger tight and then work on getting the forward hanger bushing bolt (the long one that goes in horizontally) started, you may need to tap with a hammer to seat it and then tightned that finger tight also.
Now jack up the suspension a few inches by putting a jack under the brake rotor and jack up the suspension a few inches. Then once jacked up tighted all the bolts very tightly. This is very important because the suspension should be at ride height when you tighten the bolts or else the bushings will get tweaked and fail very soon.
Then let the supsnesion down, put wheel back on, and go get an alignment at a shop.
The Front Bushing bolt, the second one pulled should have been tightened when the car had all the weight on it so it wont twist the rubber bushing and cause it to fail in 5~15,000 Km
Upper nut is welded. U have to unscrew the bolt from down
for sure bad job done easy work has been transformed in not needed job pfff 🙄
Unless the bolt is seized in the sleeve, then the spot welds on the bolt break quickly with any torque on the bolt head.
Nothing like doing mechanical work wearing crocs ! Thank you for this video.
Спасибо за видео .Скоро моей SX4 предстоит эта замена.Этой весной менял стойки стабилизатора с помощью горелки )
Я живу в Кыргызстане, сам один из 15-20 человек, у кого есть SX4, очень редкая машина у нас, даже мини куперов больше. Так вот недавно застучала шаровая на левом рычаге на пробеге 191 тысяча км, хотел поменять и искал, только под заказ, ждать около месяца. Пошел в сервис, мне предложили реставрацию шаровой, ее выпрессовали, токарь сделал заменяемой, поставили на место рычаг, после поменяли мне еще вертикальные сайленты и все отлично, машинка как мячик, мягкая и плавная стала.
@@Dan-sr9wy а я свою ласточку продал с пробегом 110 т.км , 8 лет пользовался.Ничего плохого сказать не могу.Машина не самая массовая конечно, но было время когда у нас в Кузбассе было 2 оф.дилера Сузуки.
just replaced one, the nut that they heat is captive, you just need to undo the bolt from the under side.
bent my spanners trying to undo it like in the video.
from underside it took seconds to remove the bolt
If only I read this comment earlier. Broke a 21mm deep socket on the welded nut. Underneath, the 17mm bolt loosened very easily.
Спасибо!!! Как раз буду менять пыльник на наружном шрусе без снятия и засниму как это буду делать!
Под конец собрали неправильно: затягивать надо рычаг (в данном случае только передний Сайлент), когда машина стоит на колесах, так дольше проходит. А шаровой от таких постукиваний ничего не будет. Но можно очистителем тормозов отверстие промыть и железной щеткой пройтись. А можно отверткой разжать посадочное.
Спасибо за совет. Тут кто то уже мне замечание делал. Повторно менял обе и делал правильно в этот раз.
Да, когда закрутили в висячем положении, а потом поставили на колеса сайлентблок выворачивает и в дальнейшем на кочках его еще больше надрывает, сайлентблок должен стоять в свободном состоянии, короче жопа ему будет через пару тысяч км.
+Гога Михась Было исправлено. Спасибо за совет зрителей.
Slight design difference with my 2009 model, the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint on mine has a nut - the knuckle isn't threaded. It's also a pain to change since holding that nut can be difficult when removing it.
edit: oh gosh you made the mistake of trying to break the 21MM nut and not removing the bolt from below!
Блин один из ед иных каналов где очень много информации, к стати ТРУБА ЭТО САМЫЙ ГЛАВНЫЙ ИНСТРУМЕНТ В ГАРАЖЕ
Love the Russian steel toe boots your buddy is wearing :P
i'm having the same struggle with the same bolt, ill have to heat it up too, thanks for this guide !
Спасибо ещё раз, блогодоря вам сделал все сам....
I watched the Video and it helped me a lot,. Thanks
Gopalan Jayaraaj How long “roughly” did the job take you? I know there’s comments on here that are saying a few things were done incorrectly. I’ll be doing this job this weekend. Thanks
One hour. Depends how easy it will be be to remove the bolts.
Thanks bro. Love from 🇮🇳
Please update this video with a disclaimer about taking the top nut off ... As others have mentioned it is WELDED TO THE SUBFRAME. You will brake tools or at best the welds on the nut trying to take it off. Only apply an impact or breaker bar to the bolt on the underside of the car. In my case the sleeve of the bushing was fused with rust to the bolt so after I broke the welds after watching this video turning the bolt did not thread it out but turned the rubber bushing. If this happens to you, i found cutting out some of the rubber to fit a small pipe wrench on the sleeve will work to lock the sleeve from spinning with the bolt to break the rust bond. Even with that it was still a fight the whole way out on that one bolt. DONT TOUCH THE TOP NUT. penetrating oil and heat, yes, putting torque on it, no.
Will do it Now. Thx and sorry for miss information. Not a mechanic here:)
Done!
@@volvosweden Legend, thank you guys!! All your other vids have been great I will say, just this one caused some headaches!
No wonder they had problems backing off that nut, it is a captive nut and shouldn't be moved, they must have heated it up enough to soften the weld. The bolt is removed by un-torquing from below. Also the two long bolts are normally single use and should be replaced. if they have a Scottish saltire type symbol with a dot below it on the head they are single use.
Just did this repair myself, and want to reiterate the above for anyone doing this. Do not try to loosen the nut, remove the bolts.
@John Doe or do it yourself and learn to be self sufficient. Maybe pay a mechanic alittle pocket money to observe
Сегодня менял, на 1.6 все гайки приварены к подрамнику, я поначалу пытался открутить..... 😃😃😃😃😃
thanks for the video SUZUKI SX4
The control arms are identical with Suzuki Swift 2005-2010.
The top bolt welded for a reason 🙄
Correct just need to wire brush , lubricate with penetrating fluid n crack the bolt with breaker bar from underneath
яфэ коль акавод авода това! продолжайте в том же духе!
I went to do this but don't have 21mm and torch here, so I am going to pay it in a mechanic.The bolts are like welded.They are very tight.125000KM and very bad roads in Greece.
Tighten buah bolts with weight of car on suspension to avoid stress as lazzer408 has said otherwise you will be doing it again.
What are buah bolts?
Thank you, you guys are awesome
On my 2008 SX4 I could not get the frame bushing bolt out and had to cut it off with a sawzall. I cut above and below the bushing, got the control arm out, then cut that welded nut off the frame and knocked out what was left with an hammer and punch, I got a new grade 8 bolt and nut at the hardward store and replaced it. This is not a fun job.
Hi, I'm currently looking for these bolts. Do you know the dimensions of what you bought?
@@jennypop4747 I brought the control arm into Home Depot and tested a bunch of Grade 8 bolts from the bins until I found the best fit thru the bushing sleeve.
Wonderful - оказывается по русски это офигенно!!! :)
Ребят, вопрос к вам, а гайка, которую вы трубой откручивали (заднего сайлентблока), точно должна откручиваться? У меня SX4 2008г и когда я менял свои рычаги, просто снизу выкрутил болт, поменял рычаг и закрутил обратно. По-моему эта гайка должна быть приварена...
Блин не помню уже. Сорри.
6:52 YOU HAVE TO DO THAT WHEN CAR STAYING ON WHEELS (!!!)
why?
Nice work!
YOU DON'T REMOVE THAT UPPER NUT!!!!! It's part of the subframe member and is not removable. I broke two breaker bars and bent a wrench following this video. Just remove the 17mm bolt from underneath which is very easy in comparison. This video needs to be edited/corrected. I can't believe it's been up for nearly 4 years without correction.
Will do!!! Thx and sorry.
the weld was covered with dried mud so he can't see it
You’re all supposed to let the car down on the tires before you tighten the two inner bolts Or it will cause premature inner bushing where
Agreed but how to do it? Space is less so one cannot enter below the car and tighten it. With jack stand it is not possible. Do you suggest Ramp?
Hi I am doing this on 2005 Suzuki Aerio but the bolt you pulled out at 4:12 is just spinning but not coming out and there is not room to get access to the nut. How do I remove this bolt.
Amazing video.
I was waiting this video.
Please. What is km this car?
Do you have video or indicates some exchange of fluids (brakes and radiator)?
Thank you
195,000Km we have bad roads here. I will not do brake fluid soon but will be doing thermostat and coolant change soon.
Enjoy!
Kkkk bad roads.
You need know roads the brazilian
Thank you
Great video thanks!
i just wanna say I love all your videos they are excellent!
i did want to ask though why you tap on the axle nut with the hammer and small pointed file.
Having three hands at 3.58 certainly helps !!!!!!!!!!!!
thank you !! i have the same !
Do not remove the top bolt!! It is welded on that's why its so difficult. Remove the bolt from the bottom.
+Terminal Beats | 100% Original Beats very true!!!!!
зачем горелкой греть и срывать верхнюю гайку ? по инструкции, ключем на 17 открутить снизу болт. Верхняя должна быть припаяна к подрамнику. По вашему видео можно инструмент сломать.
к таким попадешь мастерам, от вибрации гайка отлетит и рычаг вылетит
Is it 'overkill' to grease the (shoulder?) bolts and threads on the replacement assembly? Am about to replace my right hand side component too at 60 000 miles. Can anyone suggest best brand replacement tyres for a 2012 UK Front Wheel Drive 1.6 Automatic please? UK roads continue to deteriorate! Anyone know if a Workshop Manual is available anywhere worldwide please?
You guys made a major mistake the 21 mm nut has three spot welds to the frame you have to takeoff the 17 mm bolt from the bottom.
Great...which brand of control arm do you have..total cost..
Hello thank you for your your video but I have a question my car mechanic told me that I have to change lower left control arm with ball joint on my Suzuki SX4 2010, $312 part which is Moog, and $262 remove and replace F controlarm bushing and also $89.00 wheel alignment- one side for a total of $665 but he told he will give me discount of 25% and bring the price down to $498. He told me it takes 2 hours to fix is it really takes 2 hours to fix I want to be sure he is not cheating me on part price and labor cost and do I really need to do wheel alignment. Do you think $498 good price I think $312 for lower control arm is too expensive because I see Moog lower control arm on eBay is just $85 should I buy it on eBay and fix it somewhere else and also I m mot rich guy to spend that much what can happen if I just leave as it is? Without changing lower arm control? Can a wheel brake and I crush my car at highway speeds! If I drive slow will it make difference? And how do I know that I really need change lower control arm I don’t want to pay for something that I don’t need to fix! Thanks guy and by the way I speak Russian too and live in New York! God bless you!
It does take 2 hours to change both and do an alignment. The only thing I dont like is the price on the Moog arms. Buy the parts on rockauto.com and pay him for labour.
Dont neglect the suspension. Do it.
Hey buddie! Need some help. My Sx4 Suzki! Only 51k miles has these two problems. Control arms and tie rod replacement. The car dealer claims it costs 3k to fix all this but that's bullshit. How much is it for each piece do you know?
goood man work
only if we knew what size bolts that one is connected to the nut
Обажаю видео где новую деталь ставят прямо в говно. Хоть бы помыли снизу перед заменой.
А вы где ремонтом занимаетесь в гараже? Мне кто-то говорил, что нельзя самим машины ремонтировать, или это туфта?
+Гога Михась Дома в гараже у себя. Бред. Все можно.
Where online did you buy these pars? So you have a link?
amazon
Nice
hi can you pls tell me where is the full filter located in this car
+frank chilecanadian Not sure.
+frank chilecanadian Not sure.
Could i ask a silly question. K got my sx4 today, auto 4wd all appears work fine, although it appears at about 40mph 4wd comes off is that right?
How do you know it's off???
@@volvosweden the lock indicator goes out volvo
It's always in AWD when needed. The lock is to use when you want it active. It will go away and remain in AWD. Read in the manual.
@@volvosweden thanks volvo appreciated.
Thanks
that top bolt is tac welded lol
Buy yourself a pair of American work boots get rid of the crocs when working unless you really don’t like your toes!
You have not removed the rubber cap over ball joint 😀😀😀
Repairbook say allways new Bolts.
You are wrong my friend . there is no need to heat up the on top bolt because it open under need .
I know. Thx though. Learn from musta
Never trust a video where you see a shifting spanner being used as a hammer. And not a torque wrench in sight.
True. Dont.
9 out of 10 service shops wouldn't touch a torque wrench for a job like this. Do you really know what you are talking about??
Totally agree! I have maintained all my cars myself and saved Big $.
@@jacknimble1 Well I know that a shifting spanner and a hammer are not the same thing.
Is oil into?
0:53 DO NOT loosen this bolt free with an impact gun like this. These cars are rusted more now and it will snap the bolt
Definitely do impact.. soak some penetrant in the crack and impact to break/shock the rust. Using a long ratchet or wrench can shear the head as its a small bolt.
where do you get your parts, I have a 2007 RW416 two wheel drive. is there a website you would recommend
+Joel V. Le Gendre Dealer or Rockauto.com
Thanks
Auto spelling (I hate it). Can you do a video on how to test and or replace your ABS sensors? Thx
колхоз и стыдоба
посадочные перед монтажом не почистили, резьбовые соединения не смазали. болт сайлентблока затягивается под весом авто
Что то я не пойму, на каком языке видос то, ну русском или на тарабарском?
комментирует на английском, но между собой общаются на русском, так как сами русские
По шаровой колотить так-то не рекомендуется!
Do not use a ratchet like that - it will fail .. nothing like a breaker bar and tough sockets ..
Гайка сверху ПРИВАРЕНААААА!!! (была)
Да блин. Кто знал. Но вообщем ни как не влияет.
Do you still own this 2007 SX4?
Yes. 259000km on it now
Congratulations! It’s a great car. I’m doing this job in 3 hours! I hope I’m as lucky as you. Btw, did you get it aligned afterwards?
Btw, mine only has 96000Km on it.
I did not. But it would be better to.
@@volvosweden have you changed timing chain to that milleage?
под нагрузкой надо закрчивать а так как вы
Моя ошибка. Уже знаю. Многие тут написали. Спасибо
In india no one there to do videos like this you white people are always best persons in world
Мне показалось или на 2-ой минуте Славяне разговаривают?
Россияне озвучивают для европы ))))
Put some shoes on ffs.
ruZZians?
Russian speaking does not mean Russians…. Former USSR