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Boundary Engineering Oil Pump - What you need to know!

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  • čas přidán 12. 12. 2018
  • Building a performance BP engine? This videos covers all the detail you need to know about the Boundary Oil Pump for your performance engine build! ⇊ More ⇊
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Komentáře • 27

  • @darrylandrew8546
    @darrylandrew8546 Před 5 lety +4

    Have had one of these (non vvt) with 2 shims fitted for several months now. Great oil pressure under all conditions. Main seal leaked almost instant,y, followed by a second failure. Glad you brought this to the attention of many other users.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 5 lety +2

      Yeah it's odd that the seals leak from new. Luckily a few facebook folk alerted me to the fact, and I found a forum thread on Miataturbo that also raised the concern. I wouldn't have wanted to have to remove the ATI damper later to replace that seal so lucky we got it now!

    • @darrylandrew8546
      @darrylandrew8546 Před 5 lety +4

      I feel l was lucky not having an API damper fitted. I look forward to hearing of your comments on it, especially seeing as your running a balanced crank. Mine is balanced but with a big weight reduction (8kg) shaved off. Spins like no tomorrow, especially with 4kg off the chrome moly flywheel and a Garrett 2871R turbo for that bit of extra spooling.

    • @MonkeyWrenching
      @MonkeyWrenching Před 3 lety

      @@Bbeavis this right here is why I went with a fluidampr, sfi approved and still comes off with one bolt like it does from the factory.

  • @bennigek7196
    @bennigek7196 Před měsícem +1

    I just went and ordered a vvt oil pump gear. Not the complete pump. Hopefully install will be easy enough.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před měsícem

      Yeah, i think this is a good (cheaper) approach rather than a full pump.

  • @upfactoryracing4148
    @upfactoryracing4148 Před 5 lety +2

    Awesome info man!

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 5 lety

      Cool, thanks Nick :-)

  • @donfinch862
    @donfinch862 Před 5 lety +1

    Good advice, but you'd think an aftermarket upgrade kit would be "trouble free". Thanks for warning us. That's a very similar design oil pump to the old 3.8 commodore. I remember I lost oil pressure and turned around and crawled the kilometer back home. The inner ring flats had worn on the crank nose (or chain sprocket) and split the ring in half! Bought a new inner oil pump ring and welded the sprocket flats up and ground flat again - as you do living on a farm. (no fencing wire tho) A credit to those engines, was worried about the crank bearings, but it went for ever after that.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 5 lety +1

      Haha, never late in a 3.8. I've never owned a BUICK V6 powered commodore, had a RB30 VL and an Alloytec V6 though.

  • @Encom0
    @Encom0 Před 5 lety +1

    We have had issues with our one. Small nose, turbo (late 200whp) now running 5 shims to get around 65 - 70Psi (have remote filter and oil cooler fitted) and has been leaking with OEM seal. It appears the leak was from the steel seal carrier that is press fitted to the housing.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 5 lety

      Leaky seals seems to be a common issue, my advice to everyone is to install a genuine mazda seal before installation. Hope your issues are now sorted Adam.

  • @johnef805
    @johnef805 Před 3 lety +1

    My oil pump chain spins free on the crank shaft is that ok on a Mazda 2.3

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 3 lety

      I'm not sure, best speak to your local mechanic.

  • @grahamcrane83
    @grahamcrane83 Před 4 lety +1

    Good video. I bought my pump a couple of years ago and not sure if its the vvt version or not. How can you tell the difference?

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 4 lety

      There is a good explanation of them here:
      fab9tuning.com/boundary-engineering-billet-oil-pumps/

    • @mrbishievo2
      @mrbishievo2 Před 3 lety

      Does it say S2 on it? The S2 is the VVT version. Don't know if it's suitable for a non-VVT engine though

    • @mrbishievo2
      @mrbishievo2 Před 3 lety

      Apparently all 3 are interchangeable, although obviously you wouldn't fit a non-VVT pump to a VVT though

  • @maxp8892
    @maxp8892 Před 4 lety +1

    Just so everyone understands, if you put one of these on your engine you have just increased the PSI around the seal by around 65%. On mine I found it to leak around the outside of the seal and not around the shaft. The fit of the seal is not as tight as other seals of this type. I have put anaerobic seal maker around the outer seal to resolve this issue.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 4 lety

      Good suggestion Max, In my case I swapped the seal out for a genuine Mazda item and so far no issues.

    • @maxp8892
      @maxp8892 Před 4 lety +1

      @@Bbeavis Was your's a stage 1 or stage 2? Mine is a Stage 2 and currently has a leak around the pressed in plug that is used for the Mazda 3 oil dip stick. I have stopped all of the other leaks. Just one more to go. I also replaced mine with an OEM seal first time without the anaerobic gasket maker and it leaked around the outside edge. I have installed another OEM seal WITH the anaerobic gasket maker and it stopped that leak now onto the pressed in plug. I have a plan to fix it without having to pull the front of the engine off again. Thanks.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 4 lety

      @@maxp8892 It is a S2.

  • @leita0
    @leita0 Před 5 lety +1

    Nice info.
    You just run 1 shim?
    I thought for your system was 4 shims.

    • @Bbeavis
      @Bbeavis  Před 5 lety

      I ran with what is the standard recommendation from Trackspeed engineering. 1 shim on the VVT spec pump.

  • @laytonbeavis5219
    @laytonbeavis5219 Před 5 lety +2

    2:32 Glitch in the Matrix