Have a read around about spoke tension, there is some real conflicting info on this subject namely once a spoke is taught enough not to come loose in use (and fail) the wheel CANNOT be tuned for compliance via spoke tension. Have a read and form an opinion, certainly some spoke tension snake oil getting around Some certainties regarding wheel compliance is spoke count (28-32-36 etc) and just as important is spoke gauge. Straight gauge, thick spokes will make for a much stiffer wheel over something double butted for example. Common spokes for your wheels would be straight gauge 2.0mm. Higher end wheels would come with 2.0-1.8-2.0mm. This can go down to 2.0-1.5-2.0. If you have a vernier caliper check the spokes you have Talking enduro style wheels for example the DT Swiss E1900 is straight gauge 2.0mm. The EX1700 is double butted 2.0-1.8-2.0. Lighter, and more flex. The higher end EXC1501 come with 2.0-1.6-2.0 spokes. Thinner again in the centre, lighter and more flexy.
I also think DT Swiss wheels get a good report from the publications in ride feel as I believe the prebuilt trail and enduro DT Swiss wheels only come in 28h. And the common EX1700 line then runs the double butted spokes as well. 28h, double butted spokes.
So a norco sight a2 29er owner here. Stock alloy bars gave me sore wrists instantly , swapped to carbon tag bars and instantly felt better AND even raised the fork pressure by 8psi. Now in a mullet using nukeproof hrzn v2 on the back. Bumped up pressure by 10psi to gain a bit of extra bb clearance. Feels best it’s ever been . I’m not endorsing carbon at all, but different materials definitely have a huge effect. If I was over your way I would love to lend u some wheels to try. Surely there r some peeps over there willing to do the same 🤙
With the amount of testing you do - on your own and other's bikes - it sounds like you do need to 'find' a good wheelset you are happy with (remove the variable / set as a known constant). Maybe an EX511 front & EX471 rear (have a 29 & 27.5 one), don't go overboard on baller hubs - but some good value easy to maintain hubs. What you have on the Rune are good quality wheels - so resale wise is mint for the punters - and they may like them even (I'd ditch that aggressor before the wheel :p )
I'm really picky about wheels, brakes, tires & suspension. If I could save a few $ on a bike because it doesn't come with a wheelset I would every time. I'm going to build up my own wheels and whatever comes with the bike will likely be the backup set.
My Reign 27” front/rear is really choppy. I’ve used the dpx and Bomber out the back, couldn’t get it feeling supportive. My commencal 29er with the ohlins feels so much better. I’d love if you could solve this riddle for a full 27”
if you can get your hand on a pair, the hope Fortus 30 are really nice wheels and have solid compliance. They're quite popular here in UK, where everything is a mix of Filthy mud + roots + rock and traction comes at a premium. Great hubs too!
@@hannes6114 "heavy" is as abstract as the universe itself. Do you want the wheels to perform and last? There will be some weight. For people who send it and run big DH / enduro tyres + inserts, I'd argue that 50g here or there means very little to nothing.
@@laurynasjagelo5075 i have just seen that they weigh like 2400g and I just think that other 2000g wheelsets should be similarly strong - I don't really have experience though - I run what is on my one mtb, I know the weight weenie stuff is annoying
I have Fortus 30 on my Commencal meta sx and they are good but definitely weighty . I have nukeproof horizon v2s on my nukeproof scout and they seemed better value.
@@chrisanderson8578 I'm running the nukeproofs on my rig too. Thyre pretty good, but are a bit heavy too. That being said, 2 years already and still going strong after tons of bashing. main weakness is that soft HG freehub as it gets chewed very fast IME.
Just my thoughts but 29er wheels are going to feel better as their just a bit bigger to roll over the rocks and roots instead of getting caught up like 27.5 giving a feeling of harshness
I think buying a new wheelset straight away might be another stab in the dark, since there is no accurate info on wheel compliance. Try out as many wheels as possible to get some data, ask friends if you can borrow their wheels. Ride those back to back with you wheels. One run each. Also Spoke tension and the number of spokes, 28 vs 32 could play a big role. Maybe some one you know has a spoke tension meter. You could measure both of your wheelsets. The difference could be interesting.
So, another amateur question but I really appreciate your attension to details. BRAKES I rode Magura MT7, they are great but too fragile and honestly even I can feel that inconsistency after some of heat. Shimano MT520, actually really nice. MODULATION is even smaller than at MT7 and bigger that Sram's RSC levers. I think so... So how about SRAM? I tried only Guide in R and RS and reckon that Code RSC will have stiffest lever (on-off feeling) from all those candidates. Can I ask for your thoughts?
After years on different brake set ups I’m now fully convinced these shimano basic slx xt brakes are the best. They’re consistent with a good bleed, the power is incredible, the levers feel great, they’re cheap, the brake pads are killer, you use very little effort to create a lot of power, and they modulate well. The sram brakes are good with galfer pads, but the standard pads are garbage after a few real heat cycles
You can engineer in a little more compliance by lowering a bit of spoke tension... A wheel set even with relatively low tension, as long as it's still even tension will hold up to a decent amount of abuse. So far DT rims for me at least have the best combo of compliance to strength, I briefly tried carbon but they pinged me off everything, so back on metal for me.
Mate grab yourself a set of Nukeproof Horizon wheelset from Wiggle. $500 shipped and they come with a set of inserts too. Been running them on my sight since Xmas and they are awesome.
@@marauder7412 I think in Aus they only come with Stans, im with @mtbtelly. I think they r harsh, strong though. I get w weird vibration over small corrugation bumps through the front wheel.
Horizon v2 wheels, $500 AU shipped DHL from wiggle, comes with inserts aswell. Lighter, strong but compliant. I would rather them than my ex1700 wheelset.
You could try back off spoke tension a touch and see if that works, but if not just go back to something tried and true, and that your semi familiar with. There’s a reason ex511’s are so popular. Cut those spokes off, keep your hubs and lace some of ex511’s up as a mullet set and send it!😊 At worst case scenario you crossed it off the list and you learnt something. And you got some spare hoops in the shed for next time you buckle a rim. Or you can class them as garbage and send them to market place. I feel like it will eat you alive not just trying it… for science
Have a read around about spoke tension, there is some real conflicting info on this subject namely once a spoke is taught enough not to come loose in use (and fail) the wheel CANNOT be tuned for compliance via spoke tension. Have a read and form an opinion, certainly some spoke tension snake oil getting around
Some certainties regarding wheel compliance is spoke count (28-32-36 etc) and just as important is spoke gauge. Straight gauge, thick spokes will make for a much stiffer wheel over something double butted for example.
Common spokes for your wheels would be straight gauge 2.0mm. Higher end wheels would come with 2.0-1.8-2.0mm. This can go down to 2.0-1.5-2.0. If you have a vernier caliper check the spokes you have
Talking enduro style wheels for example the DT Swiss E1900 is straight gauge 2.0mm. The EX1700 is double butted 2.0-1.8-2.0. Lighter, and more flex.
The higher end EXC1501 come with 2.0-1.6-2.0 spokes. Thinner again in the centre, lighter and more flexy.
I also think DT Swiss wheels get a good report from the publications in ride feel as I believe the prebuilt trail and enduro DT Swiss wheels only come in 28h. And the common EX1700 line then runs the double butted spokes as well. 28h, double butted spokes.
So a norco sight a2 29er owner here. Stock alloy bars gave me sore wrists instantly , swapped to carbon tag bars and instantly felt better AND even raised the fork pressure by 8psi.
Now in a mullet using nukeproof hrzn v2 on the back. Bumped up pressure by 10psi to gain a bit of extra bb clearance. Feels best it’s ever been . I’m not endorsing carbon at all, but different materials definitely have a huge effect. If I was over your way I would love to lend u some wheels to try. Surely there r some peeps over there willing to do the same 🤙
With the amount of testing you do - on your own and other's bikes - it sounds like you do need to 'find' a good wheelset you are happy with (remove the variable / set as a known constant).
Maybe an EX511 front & EX471 rear (have a 29 & 27.5 one), don't go overboard on baller hubs - but some good value easy to maintain hubs.
What you have on the Rune are good quality wheels - so resale wise is mint for the punters - and they may like them even (I'd ditch that aggressor before the wheel :p )
I'm really picky about wheels, brakes, tires & suspension. If I could save a few $ on a bike because it doesn't come with a wheelset I would every time. I'm going to build up my own wheels and whatever comes with the bike will likely be the backup set.
My Reign 27” front/rear is really choppy. I’ve used the dpx and Bomber out the back, couldn’t get it feeling supportive. My commencal 29er with the ohlins feels so much better. I’d love if you could solve this riddle for a full 27”
if you can get your hand on a pair, the hope Fortus 30 are really nice wheels and have solid compliance. They're quite popular here in UK, where everything is a mix of Filthy mud + roots + rock and traction comes at a premium. Great hubs too!
Aren't they pretty heavy?
@@hannes6114 "heavy" is as abstract as the universe itself.
Do you want the wheels to perform and last? There will be some weight.
For people who send it and run big DH / enduro tyres + inserts, I'd argue that 50g here or there means very little to nothing.
@@laurynasjagelo5075 i have just seen that they weigh like 2400g and I just think that other 2000g wheelsets should be similarly strong - I don't really have experience though - I run what is on my one mtb, I know the weight weenie stuff is annoying
I have Fortus 30 on my Commencal meta sx and they are good but definitely weighty . I have nukeproof horizon v2s on my nukeproof scout and they seemed better value.
@@chrisanderson8578 I'm running the nukeproofs on my rig too. Thyre pretty good, but are a bit heavy too. That being said, 2 years already and still going strong after tons of bashing. main weakness is that soft HG freehub as it gets chewed very fast IME.
Just my thoughts but 29er wheels are going to feel better as their just a bit bigger to roll over the rocks and roots instead of getting caught up like 27.5 giving a feeling of harshness
I think buying a new wheelset straight away might be another stab in the dark, since there is no accurate info on wheel compliance. Try out as many wheels as possible to get some data, ask friends if you can borrow their wheels. Ride those back to back with you wheels. One run each.
Also Spoke tension and the number of spokes, 28 vs 32 could play a big role. Maybe some one you know has a spoke tension meter. You could measure both of your wheelsets. The difference could be interesting.
Check the spoke tension and type on both wheels
Yeah, dial in the feel with the spoke tension.
29ers frames convert to mullet much easier than 27.5 in my opinion.
I have my reign 1 since this which position of maestro selected.
I ride 20miles in low position and is to hard !
So, another amateur question but I really appreciate your attension to details.
BRAKES
I rode Magura MT7, they are great but too fragile and honestly even I can feel that inconsistency after some of heat.
Shimano MT520, actually really nice. MODULATION is even smaller than at MT7 and bigger that Sram's RSC levers. I think so...
So how about SRAM? I tried only Guide in R and RS and reckon that Code RSC will have stiffest lever (on-off feeling) from all those candidates.
Can I ask for your thoughts?
After years on different brake set ups I’m now fully convinced these shimano basic slx xt brakes are the best. They’re consistent with a good bleed, the power is incredible, the levers feel great, they’re cheap, the brake pads are killer, you use very little effort to create a lot of power, and they modulate well.
The sram brakes are good with galfer pads, but the standard pads are garbage after a few real heat cycles
Trail hawk 30 with Berd Spikes and your choice of hubs.
You can engineer in a little more compliance by lowering a bit of spoke tension... A wheel set even with relatively low tension, as long as it's still even tension will hold up to a decent amount of abuse. So far DT rims for me at least have the best combo of compliance to strength, I briefly tried carbon but they pinged me off everything, so back on metal for me.
Also if you come to Melbourne I'll gladly let you test your theory on a bunch of different rim/tension/size setups
Mate grab yourself a set of Nukeproof Horizon wheelset from Wiggle. $500 shipped and they come with a set of inserts too. Been running them on my sight since Xmas and they are awesome.
this this this. Underrated wheels for sure
Why did u change wheels? My slx hub blew up on mine
@@davegoodwin8213 I dented the crap out of the E13 LG1
@@marauder7412 I think in Aus they only come with Stans, im with @mtbtelly. I think they r harsh, strong though. I get w weird vibration over small corrugation bumps through the front wheel.
hvn v2 wheels by nukeproof... sick wheels for the coin, have them on my bikes.
Horizon v2 wheels, $500 AU shipped DHL from wiggle, comes with inserts aswell.
Lighter, strong but compliant. I would rather them than my ex1700 wheelset.
I have those exact wheels and they've been great so far.
You could try back off spoke tension a touch and see if that works, but if not just go back to something tried and true, and that your semi familiar with.
There’s a reason ex511’s are so popular. Cut those spokes off, keep your hubs and lace some of ex511’s up as a mullet set and send it!😊
At worst case scenario you crossed it off the list and you learnt something.
And you got some spare hoops in the shed for next time you buckle a rim. Or you can class them as garbage and send them to market place.
I feel like it will eat you alive not just trying it… for science
Unscrew each spoke by half a turn (or eaven more) and than try.