3:53 that explanation and the picture are worth a thousand words. mine does not look like that and i would have been chasing my tail when my car handled weird because i wouldnt know where to start.
so in order to get my steering link to look like that i would need spacers on both ends of the link. currently i dont have any spacers on the servo horn and it already hits the chassis brace at full lock. how am i suppose to get the geometry where it should be without hitting the chassis even more? im using the exotek horn made for this car and a protek 160t servo.
Great video - be nice to see a series on all the basics on the pill inserts and camber link changes. Play about with them but still can never get my head around them totally
I built a brand new B6.4 in February and have been having a load of steering issues. When the car would crash the servo would be trimmed all out of wack (during races) which I was thinking meant the horn was skipping teeth on the servo or something of the sort. However after watching your video I think my steering geometry was just not correct as you suggested. I have added some washers to get a similar geometry you mentioned (2mm on servo link and 2mm behind servo horn ballstud) and my geometry looks much more like yours. Going to track tomorrow so hopefully this will fix some of the issues I've been having!
I am always looking for some input from you young bucks.... I am an old man that was into RC 30 years ago or more back when the RC10 first came out... Just got back into it about a month ago and got me a B6.4 and have been upgrading and local carpet track racing. Im trash..... For now......
6:00 WHAT? setting endpoints with the car on a grippy surface, or even any surface? when the car is moving there is no friction to speak of so you should ALWAYS set your endpoints with the tires in the air. go out to your real car. start it up and without driving turn the wheel, then notice how much easier it is to turn the wheel while driving even at idle. you forgot another step in setting endpoints, after your "last" step you should always dial it back a little bit at least until you see some light.
Great to have UK 🇬🇧 boys setting up some CZcams business. Super useful advice from 2 of best of the new guard coming through at a track near you 😉
3:53 that explanation and the picture are worth a thousand words. mine does not look like that and i would have been chasing my tail when my car handled weird because i wouldnt know where to start.
so in order to get my steering link to look like that i would need spacers on both ends of the link. currently i dont have any spacers on the servo horn and it already hits the chassis brace at full lock. how am i suppose to get the geometry where it should be without hitting the chassis even more? im using the exotek horn made for this car and a protek 160t servo.
love to see a video on tires setups for dirt and carpet there's so many different types and compounds
Great video - be nice to see a series on all the basics on the pill inserts and camber link changes. Play about with them but still can never get my head around them totally
Just built a T6.2 and couldn't quite get the steering right without adding a ton of trim. This helped me tremendously!
Awesome video Jamie. Great work, really looking forward to the next one!
Great video Jamie. Very useful step by step set up pointers for all levels.
Great and easy step by step tutorial.
Thanks for the explanation, Jamie i just got a new transmitter and that was really helpful
Two thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻.
Great tutorial video.
Looking forward to more content 👌 😀
Awesome lads
Thanks guys
I built a brand new B6.4 in February and have been having a load of steering issues. When the car would crash the servo would be trimmed all out of wack (during races) which I was thinking meant the horn was skipping teeth on the servo or something of the sort. However after watching your video I think my steering geometry was just not correct as you suggested. I have added some washers to get a similar geometry you mentioned (2mm on servo link and 2mm behind servo horn ballstud) and my geometry looks much more like yours. Going to track tomorrow so hopefully this will fix some of the issues I've been having!
I am always looking for some input from you young bucks.... I am an old man that was into RC 30 years ago or more back when the RC10 first came out... Just got back into it about a month ago and got me a B6.4 and have been upgrading and local carpet track racing. Im trash..... For now......
That servo link should do as turnbuckle but it’s too short..it’s a pain to adjust that link..
Have a question about trim percentage. Followed your steps and my sub trim now is 50% right. Is this OK? Thanks.
Yes, that is perfectly fine.
@@hallbrothersrc3308 thanks
6:00 WHAT? setting endpoints with the car on a grippy surface, or even any surface? when the car is moving there is no friction to speak of so you should ALWAYS set your endpoints with the tires in the air. go out to your real car. start it up and without driving turn the wheel, then notice how much easier it is to turn the wheel while driving even at idle. you forgot another step in setting endpoints, after your "last" step you should always dial it back a little bit at least until you see some light.